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Equatorial Mounts For Budget Astrophotography?

Timoris writes "With the Perseids approaching rapidly, I am looking for a good beginner's motorized equatorial mount for astrophotography. I have seen a few for $150 to $200, but apparently the motor vibrations make for poor photographs. Orion makes good mounts, but are out of my price range ($350) and the motor is sold separately, adding to the price half over again. Does anyone have any good experience with any low- or mid-priced mounts?"

9 of 85 comments (clear)

  1. barn door mount by datadood · · Score: 5, Informative

    It depends on how you are wanting to do your astrophotography. If it is a camera alone then you might consider making and/or getting a barn door mount.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker
    They are simple and work well.

    If you are considering astrophotography through a telescope then you'll have to have some sort of eq mount for the scope and then the prices do rise. But since you seem to be interested in photographing the Perseids then I doubt this is the case. The wide field available with just a camera would be the way to go.

  2. Just a DSLR by faulteh · · Score: 5, Insightful

    If you're on a tight budget, but want to capture the Perseids, put a DSLR on a standard tripod. Wide shots, say 18-55mm lens, you can expose for 30 seconds or so without noticing any earth rotation in your field. Take a bunch of exposures, and use a program like the free Deep Sky Stacker to align them into a final image with total exposure time equal to all the shots combines. I haven't taken any like this for meteor showers yet, but you can get some stunning shots of the Milky Way, and some of the bigger objects in the night sky. If you use a narrower field lens, like 100mm, then you might only get 10-15sec exposures, but just take several hundred and let the stacker program turn them into awesome.

    If you want a motorized mount for astroimaging you get what you pay for.. A cheap one will have poor periodic error and vibration. I got a now discontinued LXD75, but due to the cheap plastic gears it's made with, I wish now I went with a more expensive EQ6 to get more accurate guiding.

    1. Re:Just a DSLR by mcnazar · · Score: 4, Informative

      >like the free Deep Sky Stacker to align them into a final image with total exposure time equal to all the shots combines

      This is excellent advice on getting a much improved image quality but do note that stacking images will not give you the same results as a single image using the combined stack times.

      In other words, if each image in the stack is 20 seconds then 10 stacked images will not give you an equivalent of a 200 second exposure.

      Stacking 10 images simply improves the image quality by removing hot pixels. The result, however, is still a 20 second exposure.

      The single 200 second exposure image will contain fainter objects (and more noise) when compared to the stacked 20 second image.

    2. Re:Just a DSLR by CrashandDie · · Score: 4, Informative

      Except that you would see the earth rotation a lot quicker than you apparently expect -- depending on where you are.

      At 50mm, depending on your earth location, you would see star trails after 8.5 seconds (equator), or 25 seconds (30 degrees from celestial pole).

      The rule of thumb is this:

      Around 30 degrees from celestial pole: 1200 / focal length = max exposure time.
      Around the equator: 400 / focal length = max exposure time.

      I use 600, because that's what I found yielded the best "rule of thumb" for me, as compared to my location.

  3. Very tricky by riboch · · Score: 3, Informative

    I hope you are not intending on photographing a meteor from a telescope.

    The most common thing to when photographing meteor showers is to point to the pole star and set your SLR (hopefully manual, film based on a tripod with a cable for the shutter) to a B setting and take a shot for a couple of hours. This produces really nice star trails and the occasional meteor.

    If you are piggybacking the camera to a telescope you should not have any issues with the motor vibration, but you will need to beware of wind.

    Save up your money and buy a Meade LX200, you can now get the older models (I personally think are better) for around 2000$US, combine that with a wedge and reticle eyepiece and you are ready to go. The thing really is a light bucket and something you will be happy with, with a little training you can even work out the periodic error correction with the scope so you can do astrophotography with the camera for the eyepiece.

    If that is not satisfactory, build an adjustable wedge and buy a motor that rotates at 15 deg/hour and attach the motor to the top of the wedge with a camera on it.

    --
    GO BLUE!
  4. In that budget range just buy used commercial by Isaac-1 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    In that budget range, just buy a used commercial drive base from a broken small equatorial telescope like a Meade ETX-70 or ETX-90 that are typically sold in Wal-Mart at Chirstmas time. It is common to find them on ebay cheap with broken optical components. Another option is an old B&L 4000, the optics on most of these were junk, but they had a decent AC powered drive base, and since everyone knows the optics were junk, just ask google, they tend to sell cheap ($100 or so) on ebay.

    Ike

  5. Re:So what's the meteor shower go to do with this? by BattleApple · · Score: 3, Informative
  6. For Meteors? Just a tripod by pedestrian+crossing · · Score: 3, Interesting

    To shoot a meteor shower, you need nothing more than a tripod, a camera with a ~50mm lens, warm clothes and patience.

    You don't want to take real long exposures to get meteors, too long and light pollution/sky glow will likely mess up your pictures.

    Just point near the radiant (I try for framing a nice constellation nearby), and using a cable release take 20-30 second exposures while watching the area of sky that the camera sees. Most exposures obviously won't have meteors, but when you do catch one, take note of which exposure for later when you delete the (many) exposures that didn't have a meteor. When you do capture a meteor, start a new exposure because keeping the shutter open longer won't likely gain you anything.

    If you're looking at doing further astrophotography beyond a meteor shower, then you will need some form of tracking. Making a barn-door tracker can be a cheap option to get started (YMMV, depending on how good you are at making stuff and your level of patience!).

    As with the rest of astronomy, you can start out spending a bunch of money on stuff you don't really need or use, so it's always good to start cheap and see if you are really into it. If your interest holds, you will find a way to buy up.

    --
    A house divided against itself cannot stand.