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Measuring How Much "Standby Mode" Electricity For Game Consoles Will Cost You

An anonymous reader writes: Modern game consoles have a "standby" mode, which you can use if you want the console to instantly turn on while not drawing full power the whole time it's idle. But manufacturers are vague about how much power it takes to keep the consoles in this standby state. After a recent press release claiming $250 million worth of electricity was used to power Xbox Ones in standby mode in the past year, Ars Technica decided to run some tests to figure out exactly how much power is being drawn. Their conclusions: the PS4 draws about 10 Watts, $10-11 in extra electricity charges annually. The Xbox One draws 12.9W, costing users $13-$14 in extra electricity charges annually. The Wii U draws 13.3W, costing users $14-$15 in extra electricity charges annually. These aren't trivial amounts, but they're a lot less than simply leaving the console running and shutting off the TV when you aren't using it: "Leaving your PS4 sitting on the menu like this all year would waste over $142 in electricity costs."

32 of 198 comments (clear)

  1. What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Insightful

    So about a dollar a month for standby. What would the author consider to be trivial?

    1. Re:What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Insightful

      So about a dollar a month for standby. What would the author consider to be trivial?

      That isn't trivial at all. 10-13 watts are ridiculous. It should be 0.5 watt or less. Take that one 13 watt appliance and then multiply it by a household of appliances. Suddenly, have a 100 watt incandescent lightbulb running on 24/7 in every household in America souds like it would be frugal in comparison.

      I just found out my DVR STB is using 30 watts electricity whether on or not, just so I can turn on a show, and if it happens to be on a channel I like with a show I like, I can go back up to 15-30 minutes and not miss a thing. You know how often that happens? 0. And yet I'm paying in my area nearly $5 a month for this "feature".

      Now multiply that by a household of people with a household of appliances, and it will add up to real money. I loved it when things had a hard switch. Now too much shit has a "soft" power shit, initially so it can sense a remote or do something at some time, but in the meantime too much shit has "convenience" few people use.

      Here's a list of typical shit that's running constantly (obviously some is useful to have 24/7, but just to get an overview):
      -Coffee Machines/many kitchen appliances
      -Microwaves, Ovens, Induction Stoves (sorry, I have enough watches in my life, don't need another one to program and be on all the time)
      -computers/cell phones/tablets/phones
      -wireless landline phones
      -stand top boxes / cable boxes for TVs
      -video game consoles
      -dvd/blu ray
      -security camera
      -anything with remote, including standing fans and what not
      -alarm clock
      -refrigerators
      -water heaters
      -water pump
      -sump pump
      -ac
      -ac/heat controls
      -anything with nonstandard on/off feature - motion activated, solar activated, etc

      There are obviously a lot of essentials (fridge, etc), but a lot of the countertop appliances and electronics tend to be just energy vampires and if it matters to you, should be put on a outlet which can be turned off completely (without running to the fusebox). It's also wise to switch off all the nonessentials at outlet or fusebox at vacation time (also will help prevent the odd electrical fire).

      And companies should be encouraged to cut down the rates via an energy star program and provide that info of offtime usage to the consumer so they can decide at purchase instead of being surprised at home.

    2. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by bzipitidoo · · Score: 5, Interesting

      10 watts is bad. It's also typical. Last time I checked, some 6 years ago, AT&T's U-verse DVR box used about 10 watts while on standby. While 10 watts at a cost of a dollar per month doesn't sound like much, it adds up. If you have 3 game consoles, 3 DVRs, and a bunch of wall warts for recharging cell phones and whatever other battery powered devices you have, you could be spending $10 per month. And why burn it if a better design can work just as well and not use so much energy?

      I have done a lot to cut my power use. And it's made a big difference. Went from about 10,000 KwH per year to 5,000 KwH. You don't get there by ignoring 10 watts. I did it by living with higher temps in the summer and lower in the winter (83F and 68F respectively). That was the biggest. Even after that, heating and cooling is still by far my biggest energy user, accounting for about 50% of my total usage. Have always had heavy drapes. But it's always frustrated me just how bad the cookie cutter house I have is for keeping temperatures comfortable without wasting megawatts of energy. The moronic builders put the outdoor part of the A/C on the west side of the house. Those guys who want to sell the expensive double pane windows could never justify the price. 30 year payback? Not doing that. I changed all the incandescent light bulbs for fluorescent, and now am moving to LED, and would like to employ skylights. Have had too many times when the electricity went out while I was in the shower, leaving me in total darkness though it was daylight, as the bathroom is an interior room. A skylight would fix that, and save energy. I got low energy computers, basically laptop designs that were packaged as a desktop. My best one uses 30W max, and that only when running an intense 3D game. If playing video on Youtube, it takes 20W, and if just reading and writing email, it takes 10W. Even so, I have them set to go to sleep after 10 minutes and use almost no power. The best old style desktops with the classic +12/+5/-5 volt power supplies take around 80W. The 80plus program helped with those kinds of power supplies, but it's better to run off a single voltage as laptops do. Another big help was the move from CRTs to flat screens. A CRT uses from 50W to 120W, depending greatly on how bright an image it's displaying and the resolution. Early flat screens use 30W no matter what's being displayed, and now with LED backlighting, that's down to 20W. In 1996, refrigerators took a big leap forward in efficiency. Unfortunately, we had a 1995 model. Finally ditched it, and got one that's twice as efficient. Another appliance that used an unexpected high amount of power while off was the Maytag gas drier of all things. 5W while "off" and doing nothing! Felt warm to the touch on top.

      --
      Intellectual Property is a monopolistic, selfish, and defective concept. It is "tyranny over the mind of man"
    3. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny
      More tips for you:
      • Sleep on the floor. The mattress savings really adds up.
      • Grow your own food. The food savings really adds up
      • Gather firewood. The fuel savings really adds up
      • Go to sleep after sundown. Wake up when the rooster crows
      • Get a cow or two for milking.
      • Get a butter churn
      • Get a time machine and go back 150 years.
    4. Re:What Would be a Trivial Amount? by techno-vampire · · Score: 2

      Now too much shit has a "soft" power shit, initially so it can sense a remote...

      If you really want that stuff to turn off and stay off, don't plug it directly into the wall. Plug it into a power strip with a real on/off switch and turn it off there.

      --
      Good, inexpensive web hosting
    5. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by ShanghaiBill · · Score: 2

      Yes, refrigerators are more efficient now, but they don't last nearly as long as they used to.

      Do you have any data to back that up? The myth that appliances, tools, or cars lasted longer in the past is mostly false nostalgia.

      Most now only have a year warranty, in the past they had 5 year warranties.

      That is not because they don't last. It is because manufacturers have figured out that they can make a lot of money selling "extended warranties" to dumb people.

    6. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by tompaulco · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Well, I can vouch for the fact that we have over the last 12 years replaced just about all of the water heaters in our rental houses. The water heaters which were replaced were built in the 70s and 80s. I guess I can expect something 30 years old to fail. In fact, it probably wouldn't have failed even after 30 years if we would have checked and replaced the anode. However, the new water heaters which we have replaced them with have already had problems within just a few short years. We have had to replace pilot assemblies, thermocouples, and one has a safety device with a well known calibration problem which causes it to fail and close the dampers so that you can't light the water heater. The suggested fix is to replace the water heater because the safety is not considered field serviceable. The safety device on that unit failed after about a month of operation. One month of use seems entirely to short for a water heater, especially compared to 30 years or more for the previously installed unit.

      --
      If you are not allowed to question your government then the government has answered your question.
    7. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by mlts · · Score: 4, Insightful

      One idea I've found that works, provided this is possible (i.e. you own the property), and one has the electrical ability, is to have a dedicated circuit for the little devices that comes from an inverter [1] and a set of batteries that charge from a PV panel array.

      This doesn't have to be expensive. A common setup winds up being two 6VDC golf cart batteries in series (12 volts total), 2-3 PV panels, a decent charge controller [2], and an inverter. This won't run your air conditioner unit, but it will be big enough to handle a number of low amperage devices, and one can build a decent setup for well under $1000.

      In fact, I did a jerry rigged setup to light a shed on the far side of a friend's farm using a cast off extension cord (it had the proper gauge wires when stripped), a cast off 200 watt panel, a $8 PWM charge controller from eBay, an old deep cycle battery, and a DC-DC converter so I could use some 340 lumen SunJack LED bulbs (with built in switches) that run from a USB port. All of this cost well under $100. The SunJack LED bulbs would run 8-10 hours on a 1.2 amp (or 12,000 mAh as the packaging says), so a 200 amp-hour battery that only has 50-75 amp-hours left can run the bulbs for a very long time without solar.

      Another added benefit of having all the devices on their own circuit is that they are essentially on a UPS, so if power fails, they will still keep running.

      [1]: Don't skimp here... buy a reliable PSW (pure sine wave) inverter, and go for a 1500-2000 watt model even though running at full tilt will discharge the batteries quickly. This is so that if one plugs something in that has an inrush current (refrigerator compressor, microwave), the inverter can handle it.

      [2]: You can go with a MPPT controller, which allows for higher voltage panels (as it converts the voltage higher than what the batteries use into a lower voltage with more amps), or have more panels to handle how a PWM controller "lops" off any voltage it doesn't need.

    8. Re:What Would be a Trivial Amount? by mcswell · · Score: 2

      What is this distinction you're making between being "on" or "running" on the one hand, and "working" on the other?

      I suppose the microwave has a LED display that shows the time (or shows nothing if you didn't set the clock after the last power outage), but we can run wristwatch LEDs for a couple years on a tiny battery, so I don't think that's using much juice. Likewise the LED display on our oven. Maybe a land line phone would use a tiny bit of electricity for an LED too, but I long ago traded that in for a cell phone, which doesn't appear to use up much battery juice on standby. (Yes, the office where I work still has a land line phone with an LED display. Again, I can't imagine the LED and accompanying electronics is using much electricity.) As for something with a remote: most cars now have a remote, since you can click a button on your key from several feet away and get them to do something. Does that use up your car's battery very fast? Ever leave your car at the airport parking lot and come back a week or two later? My car's battery seems to be none the worse for the wear. (Yes, a car's battery is pretty big, but _no noticeable effect_.) And so on.

    9. Re:What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Zontar+The+Mindless · · Score: 4, Funny

      Sounds cool. Can you get one of those with a remote?

      --
      Il n'y a pas de Planet B.
    10. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Firethorn · · Score: 4, Informative

      Not if they're 'energy star rated' Then the limit is less than 1 watt.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    11. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by shitzu · · Score: 2

      Wasted energy is still wasted energy no matter how you produce or buy it. Getting the energy from solar is no excuse for sleeping devices to hog that much amps.

      I prefer simple solutions so i connected all my consoles and receiver and media players to an extension chord that powers on via USB only when TV is on. 8â i spent on has probably already been saved. My receiver (sony, 2013) is quite warm to the touch and makes an audible buzz while sleeping. As I power it totally off as described, i have not bothered to measure how much power it wastes, but it has to be quite substantial.

    12. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by DamonHD · · Score: 2

      EU regulations require appliances in actual standby to use no more than 0.1W, which is less than a neon indicator bulb, and *is* good.

      My cable TV box uses 15W and consequently I make sure that it is turned off completely, along with TV and DVD else it would be responsible for ~10W of our entire electricity bill.

      http://www.earth.org.uk/saving...

      I have prototype voice detection circuit sitting on my bend that is using tens of microwatts to detect occupancy, so milliwatts should be plenty to do the instant-on job for those too damn idle to press a button.

      tl;dr: 10W is *crap* for an always-on device doing nothing.

      Rgds

      Damon

      --
      http://m.earth.org.uk/
    13. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Mousit · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Another very simple idea is to just turn this crap off. Sometimes you have to MAKE it do so, since plenty of electronics nowadays don't have a true "off" option at all. So I put everything on surge protectors that have individually-switched outlets. Easy to find plenty of those on Amazon. Either the power-strip style, or I use the desktop models (the ones intended to sit under a monitor), depending on the application and where I'm putting it. The desktop models look nice inside an enclosed entertainment center, and make for easy switching of the electronics in there.

      Either way, being able to physically flip the switch to cut off all those game consoles and those sound systems and those cell phone/laptop/whatever chargers, etc. etc. really helps.

      I even installed a timer switch on my water heater (until I can get around to replacing the thing with a tankless instead). I found that the long-cycle heating up of the water when it's turned on via the timer, actually uses less power than "maintaining" the heat throughout the day. Though that certainly depends on your usage, of course. I'm a single person and generally only need it powered for a shower. The water remains hot enough even in the unpowered tank throughout the day for things like hand washing. I was surprised what a difference it made. Most of us Slashdot types probably already have programmable thermostats for HVAC, but you don't really think about your water heater sitting there sucking up power all day maintaining hot water you're not using.

      I even have my damn dishwasher on a switch, conveniently right next to the garbage disposal switch. Only gets turned on when I need it. Sure, all this was a pretty fair amount of work at first, but once I'd done it, I literally cut my power bill in half. No joke, no exaggeration. Though again keep in mind I'm a single person and don't generally use a lot of power to begin with, admittedly, but still, slicing my usage in half just by putting crap I wasn't using on switched outlets made a tremendous difference to me. And I really don't think it's inconvenient to go over to the entertainment center and, say, flip the Playstation switch when I want to play that.

      And as an added bonus, an unpowered device is one less possible source of circuit failure and fire hazard. That's just a nice little icing on the lower-power-bill cake.

    14. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by fyngyrz · · Score: 2

      Many [car] brands are much better now.

      We can thank the Japanese, and to some extent the Europeans, for that. They kicked Detroit's ass back to the starting line. To their credit, I have to say, they got the message and cleaned up their act, and yep, modern American cars and trucks are nothing like what they used to be. Fit, finish, longevity, performance, handling, mileage, amenities, safety, it's all better.

      But my refrigeration gear is shite.

      --
      I've fallen off your lawn, and I can't get up.
    15. Re: What Would be a Trivial Amount? by Jarik+C-Bol · · Score: 2

      You're in luck, as I recently spent a great deal of time searching for tankless gas water heaters that fit a very particular set of requirements, and they happen to match a great deal of your requirements. I learned that there exist three types of tankless gas water heaters, in terms of ignition.
      There is the most common, the electrically ignited, which you are familiar with.
      Then, there are, if you hunt, standing pilot light models, which work much like the cheep end gas water heaters, with a constantly lit pilot light. (I've read that these take about 20$ worth of gas a year, if that is a concern at all)
      And finally, there is what is known as a Hydro Ignition models, where the flow of water through the heater spins a flutter-mill of some sort, which somehow sparks and lights the burner. I've read that these models take some getting used to, as you must let the water flow for a while to get them to light, and then heat. Bosch makes a whole line of tankless heaters, using either Natural Gas or LP. I've taken the liberty of finding a Natural Gas Standing Pilot light model in the list for you:
      http://www.prowaterheatersuppl...

      As you'll see, they are currently offering it for 645$, which is a good deal less than the 1000$ you mentioned. If that is not to your liking, (as I can't speak to your gas line and vent, as you didn't mention dimensions) here is the search listing for all the models that do not require electrical hookup:
      http://www.prowaterheatersuppl...

      --
      I've decided to Diversify my Holdings. I've divided my cash between my left and right pockets, instead of all in one.
  2. What really is happening? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

    WTF? "Sleeping" should draw way less. It doesn't take a lot of power to keep a couple of sticks of SDRAM alive. Okay, probably also the NIC and a MCU to monitor the remote. I bet your console is reporting to the mother-ship or something.

    1. Re:What really is happening? by TitusC3v5 · · Score: 2

      I'm pretty certain the linked article's numbers are simply wrong.

      --
      And the masses cried out, "09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0!"
    2. Re:What really is happening? by tlhIngan · · Score: 2

      WTF? "Sleeping" should draw way less. It doesn't take a lot of power to keep a couple of sticks of SDRAM alive. Okay, probably also the NIC and a MCU to monitor the remote. I bet your console is reporting to the mother-ship or something.

      First off, a power supply is less efficient at the low end than at the high end. A 200W power supply may be 80% or 90% efficient when running at its design load of 150W, but when you want 5W in standby mode, you can easily get into the 50% or lower efficiency range.

      And 5W is probably perfectly reasonable for keeping SDRAM alive and refreshed, the NIC and other bits alive. It's just the power supply is only 50% efficient, so it draws 10+W at the wall.

  3. Re:Waste is heat! by rtb61 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Yep, media pans a game console, ohhh, look at the power it consumes when you a playing with a pretend mega yacht but when it comes to the sheer insane waste of an actual mega yacht not just lost resources, a corrupted economy necessary to pay for it but the sheer volume of pollution generated in say one minute consuming the energy of a game in stand by mode for a year and this the quisling shit heads celebrate. Ever hear of main stream media picking on private jets, now how much energy do they waste not only during run time but during operation in year, what something like 10,000 game consoles and TVs to watch the output, again the whine about the energy use of us nobodies but when a somebody consumes at rates 10,000 times the average they through parties and celebrate. Want to see real waste, that is us, letting the 1% exist.

    --
    Chaos - everything, everywhere, everywhen
  4. Re:Just disable it... by toejam13 · · Score: 4, Insightful

    One problem with modern electronics is when the manufacturer figures that you're always going to put your device to sleep instead of fully powering it down, so they don't put much effort into optimizing the boot time from a cold power up.

    Take for example desktop PCs. There are some motherboards where the firmware initialization is around two seconds. But I've seen it as high as fifteen seconds for a desktop motherboard and over a minute for a server motherboard, even when you have all of the options set to allow the fastest boot possible. That is a very wide difference from one motherboard to another.

    When I read motherboard reviews, very rarely is boot time ever mentioned. So is this a chicken-vs-egg scenario where users don't care about cold boot times because they're happy with standby and hibernate modes? Or do users care, but it is so rarely reported that we always end up with motherboards that drive us to standby and hibernation modes?

  5. Re:Waste is heat! by toejam13 · · Score: 3, Insightful

    That's fine when you live in an Arctic wasteland, but a good portion of the world population lives in an area where the climate requires active cooling during the summer months. So that waste heat must either be removed using fans or air conditioning, which costs money.

    When I lived in a cool city, my Core i7 930 and my wife's Phenom X4 955 were fine. But when I moved to a city where summer temps can exceed 40C, I replaced them with low power (S series) Haswell systems. My July electric bill went down 10% from the previous year. After selling the old equipment, the upgrades will pay for themselves in under 2 years.

  6. Re:Waste is heat! by JanneM · · Score: 4, Interesting

    It's very inefficient to turn electricity into heat directly. If you wanted heating you'd be better off using a heat pump or other indirect means.

    --
    Trust the Computer. The Computer is your friend.
  7. Re: Just disable it... by DigiShaman · · Score: 2

    POST (Power On Self Test). The time doesn't include bootstraping to the OS. For example, Dell OptiPlex machines boot very fast when compared with a 3rd party motherboard. Dell PowerEdge servers take a very long time. For those POST includes RAM, DRAC, PERC (raid card), and the IPMI bus.

    --
    Life is not for the lazy.
  8. Re:Power supply costs, BMs and shi5 by mcswell · · Score: 2

    Ok, 0.26 watts. Let's pretend you never have to charge your phone (or you got a new charger and forgot to unplug the new one). There are about 8766 hours/ year. (This takes into account that one out of four years is a leap year.) So that charger is using about 2200 watt hours/ year, or about 2k. The average price for electricity in the US is 12 cents/ kw-hour (http://www.npr.org/blogs/money/2011/10/27/141766341/the-price-of-electricity-in-your-state). So we're talking 25 cents per year to keep this charger plugged in.

    That same NPR article says the average American household uses about 900 kw-h/month, or 900,000 watt-hours. A quarter of a watt = 187 watt-hours/ month, or about 0.02% of the average monthly use. Putting this differently, you'd need 50 plugged-in chargers in your home to amount to even 1% of your electricity use.

  9. Re:Oh Nooooooo by itzly · · Score: 2

    Not a whole $12.
    Wait.
    "ANNUALLY" YOU SAY?

    Per device.

  10. Re:Oh Nooooooo by drayath · · Score: 2

    As an individual you may not care much, but at a wider scale can be a noticable impact on power usage.

    If every household in the US (~120m) draws an extra 10w average power, total requirement is arround 1Gw or 1 extra mid/large size coal/nuclear plant (E.g. Three mile island).

    If you start adding all the devices you have on standby (inclucing some of the nasy cable boxes that drew upto 50w standby) it starts adding up. This is esentially where the EU regulations for standby power came from in conjunction that for most devices is it costs almost nothing per device to have it use minimal standby power just a bit or care and effort in the design phase of a hardware project.

    * Ignore for simplicity that if running heating power is not really wastes, but if running household aircon essentially you double the power usage.

  11. Re:EU regs state standby power must use 0.5W by DamonHD · · Score: 2

    IIRC units are shipped in the EU with the 'instant-on' mode disabled by default, which would meet regs.

    So it's superficially a software issue pandering to a chunk of their consumers being by default happy to waste lots of energy all the time (or never realising what's going on) rather than press a button. And we wonder why some places have an obesity and a power-consumption problem!

    Rgds

    Damon

    --
    http://m.earth.org.uk/
  12. Re:Time for a standardized DC power outlet in home by flightmaker · · Score: 3, Interesting

    The reason for electricity mains operating at a dangerously high voltage is that it reduces the current flowing through the wiring which therefore reduces voltage drops and wasted energy due to heat dissipation in the wiring.

    IMHO the best way to maximise power efficiency is to use a decent quality switching power supply, either a wall wart or built in, which is correctly matched to the requirements of the equipment. I think manufacturers are getting better at this, for example my Virgin Media "Superhub" which is supplied with what appears to be a decent quality switching supply so both the hub and the wall wart are only slightly warm to the touch, certainly not hot.

    I recall purchasing, something like 10 years ago, a small 5 port Ethernet switch which was supplied with the usual cheap wall wart with a simple transformer and rectifier inside. Both the switch and the wall wart ran uncomfortably hot with, I assume, a linear voltage regulator inside the switch which would have slowly roasted itself to death sometime after the warranty period expired. Not satisfied, I tried powering the switch with a laboratory supply which I adjusted to the minimum voltage required for the switch to operate reliably. Then I purchased from CPC a decent quality switch mode wall wart of the same voltage, which I think cost me several quid more than the switch did, and the switch has been running with no problems, just a little warm, ever since. Having used a plug in power meter on both wall warts I reckoned that the switch mode unit paid for itself in two years and the switch has lasted several times longer than I would have expected it to with he cheap over voltage supply. WIN-WIN!

  13. Produce in your garden? by fyngyrz · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Surprisingly, growing your own food DOES save money.

    It's not surprising -- it just isn't worth it for most people. To do it well, you variously need land; upkeep time; knowledge (pests you don't need, creatures you do, plant nutrition, how to harvest without doing damage, control of wastage, fertilizer issues, varietal information, home-cooking skills, canning skills); seed sources; patience; storage, fencing to control animal forage, sometimes a permit...

    Or you can just go to the supermarket, buy a bag of salad and a can of beans, come home and cook dinner. Or hit a restaurant.

    It's pretty easy to see why most people choose to exchange the labor they do via the obvious proxy (money.). It really depends where you want to put your effort. The money you save -- whatever that is in a particular case -- has to be of at least the same value as your time, otherwise, you're working against yourself.

    We have a tower garden here. It was a gift, so the initial cost (to us) was nothing. Even so, the costs for the nutrients and starters and the small amount of electricity the nutrient pump takes adds up to be non-trivial, and the amount of produce isn't fabulous overall, all things considered. The quality of what it produces is, though. Buying it... I wouldn't even think of it. It's expensive. It's also kind of pretty when it's all growing like a little vertical jungle, but that's pretty minor in the larger picture.

    --
    I've fallen off your lawn, and I can't get up.
  14. Um. My moderns sure have not laster... by fyngyrz · · Score: 2

    The myth that appliances, tools, or cars lasted longer in the past is mostly false nostalgia.

    That's not been my experience. I've been through quite a few "modern" refrigerators in my life (I'm 58.) My most recent purchase, a standup freezer, only lasted about a month past the 1-year warranty, and the compressor went nipples north. Cost a fair bit to have that compressor replaced -- even though it's a sealed, lightweight POS. My frig is about three years old, and we're already thinking of replacing it, as the amenities have failed -- icemaker, waterspout, filter system. Modern consumer level refrigerators and freezers just have not done well for me. Flimsy plastic shelves and fittings, ice makers that quit working in no time, filter systems that fail, the very cheapest possible compressors... meh.

    There have been many days when I wish I'd thought to collect my mother's refrigerator / freezer. It's still at the old house, cranking along. It's been there since before I was born -- well over 60 years. Never broke down. Never needed repair. Never needed coolant / oil. Dead quiet. Looks pretty dated, all rounded edges and the like (it'd look right at home in a 1940's dwelling) but damn, for the money I've spent, I could have easily lived with it. At this point, it'd sure be a bitch to drag it from Pennsylvania to Montana, though. :)

    --
    I've fallen off your lawn, and I can't get up.
  15. No. Not ten. by fyngyrz · · Score: 2

    $10 a month is $120 in a year, $1200 in ten years, $4800 over a working lifetime (40 years or so.) The question isn't what can you buy with $10. The question is, what could you buy with $4800? That, and how much will it cost to save that $4800, because that has to be taken right off the savings.

    Math. Do you have it?

    --
    I've fallen off your lawn, and I can't get up.