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How Tesla Batteries Will Force Home Wiring To Go Low Voltage
CIStud writes with a story at CEPro suggesting that solar power and home batteries like Tesla's PowerWall "will force the reinvention of home wiring from primarily AC high voltage to DC home-run low voltage to reduce power conversion loss," writing "To avoid the 20% to 40% power loss when converting from DC to AC, home wiring will have to convert to home-run low-voltage, and eventually eliminate the need for high-voltage 110V electrical wiring." As a former full-time Airstream dweller, I can attest to the importance of DC appliances when dealing with batteries.
I'm not buying it. Voltage x Amperage = Wattage. So long as Wattage stays the same (think 1,800W hair dryers here), your Amperage must proportionately increase if the Voltage drops... This can only be accomplished by using LARGER wires to deliver the Amps... This is why wires on your car battery or golf cart are so large... Imaging the COST of wiring a home with large (lower Voltage) conductors like that... Ask yourself why Europe uses a ~230V/240V electricity in homes and how much cost savings there must be by delivering all the wattage at half the conductor size compared to the North American 120V household standard... Smarter people than us have all thought this stuff through many decades ago... Tesla is trying to push battery tech and if it were affordable and better than a $500 gas generator, we'd already have it installed. Cool technology, way too expensive and I'm not rewiring my house.
This is largely what I was thinking.
As it currently stands, commercial buildings often have 277V lighting circuits (this is in the US) because it involves installing less copper in the ceilings.
From this, one can intuit that lowering the voltage will significantly increase the amount of copper, but let's take an example and make it more solid.
Let's say, for the sake of example, that we were considering 48V DC as an alternative to 120V AC (I personally would not want to consider anything lower than 48V in a home environment). If you need to deliver 1200W from point A to point B, it will require 10A at 120V, and 25A at 48V.
That 10A could be safely delivered on a 14 ga. wire in most domestic contexts, but will probably be delivered on 12 ga. For 25A, however, you're going to need 10 ga.*
A 250' roll of wire is ~$43 for 14 ga, $95 for 12 ga., and $138 for 10 ga. See the problem?
For the next challenge, you will also need to use different, more expensive switches and circuit breakers, or drop back to using fuses. This is because an AC arc self-quenches in half a cycle or less, and won't re-establish until the contacts are brought close enough together. The DC arc, on the other hand, is continuous, and requires additional effort to quench. Just for the record, there is an arc every time that a circuit breaker or switch is opened under load. This is the reason why you will often see switches and breakers labelled "AC Only".
Now, this is not to say that these problems won't be overcome or that a different variant might come about. Who knows? Maybe they'll gravitate towards 120V AC or some such, in which case it will be 1915** all over again.
(*For the non-Americans and uninitiated, US wire gauge is backwards: larger numbers are smaller wires. 14, 12 and 10 gauge are ~2.1, 3.3 and 5.3 mm^2, respectively)
(**There is nothing special about 1915, but I live in a house that was built in 1915 and was electified from day one. It would have had DC delivered to it in those early days, courtesy of Mr. Edison's various efforts in my current home town of Schenectady.)
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You'd think the fight between Edison and Tesla would have ended long after their deaths. Clearly not. It is a good thing their graves aren't near each other, if they were, there would surely be lighting bolts going back and forth.
I have that Thinkgeek t-shirt actually...
It is mildly amusing that DC, Edison's favorite, might be better suited to an application named after the major proponent of AC, Tesla...
Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
We need to use HIGH voltage DC at about the same voltage as your house is now, forget about going "low voltage" DC. MOST things in your home will run JUST FINE on DC with a few notable exceptions. AC induction motors will NOT work, nor will anything that involves an old fashioned transformer, but most modern electronics with switching power supplies work great on anywhere between about 90V to 200V DC without modification. Most switching power supplies just convert the AC into DC right up front and won't know the difference. So, all you do is provide inverters for the things you cannot easily change (like for your appliances) and just feed DC to the rest of the stuff that doesn't care. What you DON'T do is go to low voltage DC and suggesting this is just crazy talk. Why?
1. Most stuff just works on high voltage DC as discussed above. Most switching power supplies simply don't know or care about AC or DC and due to their efficiency switching power supplies are used in almost everything electronic.
2. It's easier (and more efficient) to use high voltage DC for charging the batteries. All you need is a rectifier to convert that 220 into about 250V DC and charge the batteries, which is about as simple and efficient as it comes.
3. It's easer (and more efficient) to make an inverter that uses high voltage DC as input. It's pretty easy to just flip the current one way then the other to get AC sufficient to run most induction motors and transformer powered devices.
4. It's more efficient to use higher voltage in terms of wire size because IxR losses are less for the same power transfer. Chances are the same wires you have now will be fine, but if you go to low voltage (say 13.8V like in your car) you are going to need bigger conductors to avoid the voltage drops over long high current runs. Use higher voltage and lower current, and stick with the wires you have.
5. Current battery technology for EV's and hybrids uses about 200V DC to start with, so there are less modifications to the technology when adapting to a home use. If we stick with a common battery pack voltage it will increase the economies of scale in their production and allow the use of old automobile packs that have reduced capacity as power storage in homes where the size and weight of the battery is less important. If you go low voltage, you either have to convert the 200V down to 12 or 48 (and incur the conversion loss) or modify the battery pack to operate at the lower voltage.
I know that traditional DC systems run at multiples of 12 Volts because they are usually built on Lead-Acid batteries and that much equipment is commercially available that uses 12 and 48 volts based on this. But going to 12 or 48 volts is not the right answer. It's really just the traditional solution based on past thinking and limitations. Running 200V DC is a more viable and long term solution that will work fine with a lot of existing AC equipment, plus is compatible with a ready source of batteries which are commercially available (and if purchased used, pretty cheap).
So, NO, we DON'T want to start using low voltage DC... We want to use HIGH voltage DC.
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This is strange. "20 to 40% power loss" seems to be an awfully poor inverter; existing inverters are 4-8 % loss.
Rather than rewire every house in America, wouldn't it make more sense to just design better inverters?
Or just run at 120V DC, as renewable energy systems did (and occasionally still do) before so many appliances were AC-only that it made sense to use an inverter.
Dropping voltage means you have to replace the copper wiring with MUCH HEAVIER wiring - by a square law - to carry a given amount of power with the same loss - and thus wiring heating inside the walls, where it can set the house of fire.
Switching to 120V just means using DC-capable appliances and replacing the breakers (DC is harder to interrupt) and must-be-GFCI outlets (normal GFCI devices use a transformer to sense unbalanced load).
The 48V standard was about having a voltage that was low enough that touching it was typically survivable, so working on or near it is (relatively) safe. The boundary between the hard part and the easy, "low-voltage", part of the electrical code is 50V (BECAUSE of phone companies B-) ). Medium power (>1KW) home Renewable Energy systems tend to be at 48V so much of the wiring falls under the easier part of the code, and because of the availability of
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