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De Beers To Sell Diamonds Made In a Lab (bloomberg.com)

An anonymous reader quotes a report from Bloomberg: De Beers, which almost single-handedly created the allure of diamonds as rare, expensive and the symbol of eternal love, now wants to sell you some party jewelry that is anything but. The company announced today that it will start selling man-made diamond jewelry at a fraction of the price of mined gems, marking a historic shift for the world's biggest diamond miner, which vowed for years that it wouldn't sell stones created in laboratories. The strategy is designed to undercut rival lab-diamond makers, who having been trying to make inroads into the $80 billion gem industry. De Beers will target younger spenders with its new diamond brand and try to capture customers that have been resistant to splurging on expensive jewelry. The company is betting that it can split the market -- with mined gems in luxury settings and engagement rings at the top, and lab-made fashion jewelry aimed at millennials at the bottom. "Lab grown are not special, they're not real, they're not unique. You can make exactly the same one again and again," Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of De Beers, said in an interview Tuesday. De Beers says the man-made diamonds will not compete with mined stones. It's so adamant about this that it will not grade them in the traditional way. "We're not grading our lab-grown diamonds because we don't think they deserve to be graded," Cleaver said. "They're all the same."

As for pricing, "The lab diamonds from De Beers will sell for about $800 a carat," reports Bloomberg. "A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about $4,000 and a similar natural diamond fetches roughly $8,000."

33 of 415 comments (clear)

  1. Scam by Peter+P+Peters · · Score: 4, Insightful

    "Lab grown are not special, they're not real,"
    They're as special and real as any other diamond (ie not special but equally real). The diamond business is a scam and they know it. There's a reason this product is deliberately targeted at women...

    1. Re:Scam by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I love watching nonsense industries die because my generation couldn't care less.

      This clown won't grade them because they are superior - but the reality is there is no shortage of mined ones either.

      He's desperately trying to gaslight everyone and it's...not....workiiiiing.......

    2. Re:Scam by meerling · · Score: 5, Informative

      DeBeers already holds back the majority of the supply of diamonds to artificially inflate the cost. They do plenty of other things to do that as well.
      The other lab grown diamond manufacturers have gotten in the business and sold so high because the costs of mined diamonds is so high it's like honey to a bear.

      Yes, they are all just as real and special, and often the lab diamonds have less inclusions than the mined diamonds, which is considered a better diamond. Of course DeBeers is fighting that because they control the bulk of mined diamonds and don't want to lose their ultra premium profits.

      Unless you have an imperfect mined diamond, or recognize the serial number markings, even a jeweler can't tell mined from lab diamonds because the only thing different from them is age and origin.

      You know, having the consistency of lab diamonds is considered a big boon for anyone making jewelry needing matched stones.

      DeBeers is just freaking out because they are slowly (maybe not so slowly now) losing control over a market they've had a near monopoly on for over a century.

      [Insert laugh track and applause here]

    3. Re:Scam by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

      It'd certainly be easy to add flawing to the process, and it certainly may have already happened (from De Beers new position, i'd say it has... this shift is fairly seismic), but natural diamonds are not all that scarce.

      A few years back, the way De Beers was marketing their diamonds was due to the flaws that natural diamonds didn't have!

      10 years ago, it was easy to make a diamond by submitting any form of carbon (plus a small seed diamond) to a very high pressure and temperature (graphite being the best one, since there's not a lot of impurities). This results in flawed diamonds. If the diamond grows slowly it tends to form an almost perfect crystalline structure. But if a diamond grows fast different parts of the diamond grow independently and you have lots of fractures where the different crystalline sections merge. A consequence of these different crystalline sections interacting is a different behavior, when exposed to UV light. Artificial colorless diamonds would shine under UV light, whereas the real ones wouldn't (owing to the single crystal form, which dissipated all the UV energy).

      Then, some guys discovered the holy grail of diamond making, the exact conditions for chemical vapor deposition. You basically start with a seed diamond and a mixture of gases (typically methane and hydrogen). In this process, the artificial diamond is grown atom by atom, from the seed diamond. The process is slow (a growth of micrometers per hour), but you get perfect diamonds, because each added atom conforms to the structure of the existing diamond.

      So, as De Beers as done in the past, they're changing their marketing strategy and saying that, after all, flaws are awesome. It's business as usual for them...

    4. Re: Scam by sabbede · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Not the only reason - diamonds aren't just sparkly decorations, they have utilitarian value. Just like gold, the industrial applications are where diamonds really shine.

    5. Re:Scam by Eloking · · Score: 3, Interesting

      DeBeers already holds back the majority of the supply of diamonds to artificially inflate the cost. They do plenty of other things to do that as well.
      The other lab grown diamond manufacturers have gotten in the business and sold so high because the costs of mined diamonds is so high it's like honey to a bear.

      Yes, they are all just as real and special, and often the lab diamonds have less inclusions than the mined diamonds, which is considered a better diamond. Of course DeBeers is fighting that because they control the bulk of mined diamonds and don't want to lose their ultra premium profits.

      Unless you have an imperfect mined diamond, or recognize the serial number markings, even a jeweler can't tell mined from lab diamonds because the only thing different from them is age and origin.

      You know, having the consistency of lab diamonds is considered a big boon for anyone making jewelry needing matched stones.

      DeBeers is just freaking out because they are slowly (maybe not so slowly now) losing control over a market they've had a near monopoly on for over a century.

      [Insert laugh track and applause here]

      Exactly +1

      For those interested, Adam Ruins Everything make an episode about it

      --
      Elok
    6. Re: Scam by jwhyche · · Score: 3

      I'm actually pleased with some of the younger generation that I talk too. A great deal of them do not see gold and gems purely for their monetary value. For example my son sees an ouch of gold and the first thing he asked me was how much gold wire could be made out of that for cpu's.

      Personally my favorite gem is a ruby. I think that stems from the time I was 8 years old and wondering how I could get a hold of one big enough to make a ruby laser out of. I saw the designs in a comic book.

      --
      I read at +2. If your post doesn't reach that level I will not see or respond to it.
  2. Still a fucking racket... by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 5, Interesting

    The diamond industry for wedding rings is bullshit -- it was created in by US advertisers in the 1930s to prop up South Africa's failing economy. Don't buy into the hype. Real or synthetic, it's still BS.

    Give a nice wedding ring, but not expensive. Maybe something that's been in the family for a few generations. Doesn't have to be diamond either -- non-diamond engagement rings are quite common outside the US.

    Open your minds.

    1. Re:Still a fucking racket... by PopeRatzo · · Score: 4, Informative

      The diamond industry for wedding rings is bullshit -- it was created in by US advertisers in the 1930s to prop up South Africa's failing economy. Don't buy into the hype. Real or synthetic, it's still BS.

      There's even more to that story. In the 1950s, the diamond industry did research that showed that when the prospective bride was involved in the purchase of the engagement ring, they actually picked a smaller, less expensive diamond. So, the industry, led by De Beers, started a campaign pushing the idea that men were supposed to surprise their bride-to-be with an engagement ring, thus cutting the more frugal woman out of the picture. You know that iconic image of the man pulling out the little ring box, and the blushing bride squealing with delight? It's all some made up corporate horseshit like Santa Claus or Trump University.

      It's bad enough that the De Beers family is covered in blood, but they've constructed a string of lies to sell their despicable merchandise.

      --
      You are welcome on my lawn.
    2. Re:Still a fucking racket... by PopeRatzo · · Score: 4, Informative

      This part of the scam I didn't know yet. Do you have some sources to read up on the details?

      OK, I found it. The first mention I could find of the story was in a Wall Street Journal article from 2009 (behind a paywall).

      https://www.wsj.com/articles/S...

      It was referenced again on the Mental Floss blog (written by some writers from This American Life and other places). It seems to be taken from the Wall Street Journal story.

      http://mentalfloss.com/article...

      --
      You are welcome on my lawn.
    3. Re:Still a fucking racket... by jwhyche · · Score: 3

      Couldn't resist it could you? You where actually making sense and sounding sane till you TDS kicked in.

      --
      I read at +2. If your post doesn't reach that level I will not see or respond to it.
    4. Re:Still a fucking racket... by jwhyche · · Score: 3

      Or a real rock.

      A good story I heard from a friend that a geologist at his university proposed to another geologist with a special ring. It contained a rock, a real honest to god rock.

      --
      I read at +2. If your post doesn't reach that level I will not see or respond to it.
  3. Love the sales strategy here by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    "This product sucks. It's garbage. You don't want it. It's for losers. Embarrassingly bad. Don't be caught dead with one. Come get 'em, half off everybody! We got lots!"

    1. Re:Love the sales strategy here by another_twilight · · Score: 4, Insightful

      They aren't looking at selling them for profit.

      They are looking at tarnishing the image of other man made diamonds. While they were arguing that their 'natural' diamonds were better it was an 'us vs them' argument. Supposed scarcity vs perfection. If they manufacture man-made diamonds, but refuse to grade them, drop the price to the point where they become almost disposable fashion items, then they can make other man-made diamonds seem similar. If they can manage to drive several manufacturers out of business by undercutting them then that's a bonus.

      Ugly, nasty and abusive.

    2. Re:Love the sales strategy here by Ramze · · Score: 3, Insightful

      It's a brilliant business strategy. They basically control the natural diamond supply, and the best way to continue to artificially prop up their value is by ensuring everyone perceives artificial diamonds as an inferior product. One way to do that is through pricing.

      We all know that lab made diamonds can be pretty much identical to mined diamonds. Different defects creep into both, but the lab ones usually have fewer defects.

      By De Beers claiming all lab-grown diamonds are the same and not worth grading, they're marketing how each of their mined diamonds are unique and special. By selling the lab ones for a tenth the cost of a mined one, they're not only crushing the competition that sells them for 5 times as much, but marketing that these are inferior and too cheap to be a replacement for a true mined diamond for an engagement ring, etc.

      Of course, the marketing is all hot garbage, but... so is the idea that diamonds are rare valuable stones to begin with. De Beers is king of manipulation here. If De Beers is selling these lab ones at near cost, the lab market might crash and burn from lack of profit leaving De Beers as the only lab grown seller as well.

    3. Re:Love the sales strategy here by swb · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I wonder if it helps prop up the price of smaller natural diamonds.

      If good and big man-made diamonds become relatively cheap, it seems like they would become a natural alternative for the type of person who judges quality by quantity. So now you have "low class" people sporting large diamonds, creating the social association of big diamonds with the trailer park crowd.

      Your high-class moneyed crowd who previously might have liked making a statement with a 2 carat ring now finds themselves unable to impress anyone with a large diamond, or worse, gets mistaken for the wrong social class.

      So they revert to small natural diamonds -- since nobody would buy a small man-made diamond when you could buy a big one, now expensive and small diamonds are seen as a statement of wealth.

  4. Other words by religionofpeas · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Lab grown are not special, they're not real, they're not unique. You can make exactly the same one again and again

    He means that the ones they dig out of the ground are flawed in different ways, but the manufactured diamonds are perfect.

    1. Re:Other words by sjames · · Score: 4, Insightful

      It's funny how they were all about flawless diamonds with perfect clarity until people figured out how to make perfect synthetic diamonds. Now they're all about the natural beauty of flawed natural diamonds.

  5. Lab grown are not special, they're not real? by gravewax · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Not special maybe, though more special and rare than the abundant but artificially limited supply of mined ones. As for not real? WTF? they are as real as any other diamond, what makes a diamond is its chemical makeup and structure not whether it was lab created or mined.

  6. They may say they're lab grown... by jnaujok · · Score: 3, Interesting

    ...but DeBeers has literally trillions of carats of diamonds in their vaults. They've been stockpiling them for over a century to maintain the illusion that diamonds are rare.

    Most likely they will simply start liquidating their massive stocks of real diamonds as "lab grown" because they're running out of vault space.

    --
    Life, the Universe, and Everything... in my image.
  7. make them out of monkey poop by goombah99 · · Score: 4, Funny

    Seriously, you can make diamonds out of any carbon source. So if the goal is to debase lab grown diamonds as low cost and therefore low value, make them out of literal monkey poop. Here you go honey, a 1 carat diamond, I got it cheap because it's made from monkey poop.

    --
    Some drink at the fountain of knowledge. Others just gargle.
    1. Re:make them out of monkey poop by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 5, Interesting

      It would be ironic if the non-carbon impurities in monkeyshit actually made diamonds of a brilliant and exotic color, otherwise unattainable. Think of Kopi Luwak -- maybe they'd be equally valuable.

    2. Re:make them out of monkey poop by dcw3 · · Score: 5, Funny

      Better yet, what about diamonds literally made of part of the husband's penis? "Look honey, I gave up the remainder of my foreskin to make this ring for you!"

      It would bring new meaning to "the family jewels".

      --
      Just another day in Paradise
  8. Re:Glass diamond? by Michael+Woodhams · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Diamond is so spectacular because of its high refractive index. If you want a fake diamond, cubic zirconia or silicon carbide are the favoured ways to go. Refractive indices: diamond 2.42; cubic zirconia 2.15; silicon carbide 2.65; fused silica glass 1.46.

    --
    Quattuor res in hoc mundo sanctae sunt: libri, liberi, libertas et liberalitas.
  9. Let's keep traditions by OrangeTide · · Score: 5, Funny

    and at least have children working at these new labs.

    --
    “Common sense is not so common.” — Voltaire
  10. $800 a carat or $4000 a carat? Lab vs man-made? by LaughingRadish · · Score: 4, Funny

    "The lab diamonds from De Beers will sell for about $800 a carat," reports Bloomberg. "A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about
    $4,000...". So, a lab diamond is $800 a carat and a man-made diamond is $4000 a carat? What's the difference between a lab diamond and a man-made diamond?

    I thought Bloomberg was rich enough to hire copy editors.

  11. Re:Fake beers by mnemotronic · · Score: 5, Informative

    No kidding. De Beers is like the worst caricatures of evil capitalists.

    ...

    They are not "like" a caricature of evil. They are evil. The very essence of violent, monopolistic corruption. They do not tolerate competition. They invented the modern perception of diamonds as rare, valuable objects synonymous with "love" and they mean to guard that perception like a saber-tooth mother hen. It's a crystallized piece of carbon. DeBeers has huge warehouses filled with raw diamonds. They restrict the supply to keep prices high.

    --
    The Russians have won. They have made the world a cesspool of distrust, greed, fear and hate.
  12. Next: C14 battteries and blinky jewels? by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 4, Interesting

    So as long as they're making synthetic diamonds, I wonder if they'll make Carbon 14 diamond batteries.

    And once you've got a radioactive diamond inside a layer of non-radioactive diamond acting as a semiconductor and collecting power, how about using that power to run semiconductor circuitry in the surrounding diamond?

    Blinky-light diamond jewelry. Little computerized devices networking with a protocol like Bluetooth Low Energy (which gets by on miniscule amounts of power by mostly sleeping at microwatt levels until it's time to listen or talk.)

    The possibiliies are endless. Also tacky.

    --
    Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
  13. Re:Glass diamond? by Ramze · · Score: 3, Informative

    moissanite is the mineral form of silicon carbide they listed

  14. Re:Glass diamond? by OneAhead · · Score: 5, Informative

    Half right. The optical dispersion is equally important, a.k.a. the variation of the refractive index as a function of the wavelength, a.k.a. the material's ability to "pull the colors apart" when used as a prism. A hypothetical gemstone with a high refractive index but little optical dispersion would show the "black and white faces" of diamond when lit with a white spotlight, but none of the "rainbows" (which the gemstone lovers call "fire").

    One of the measures for optical dispersion is the difference in refractive index between 686.7 nm and 430.8 nm. Values: diamond 0.044; cubic zirconia ~0.06; silicon carbide ~0.1; fused silica glass ~0.01; corundrum 0.018 (and the latter has a refractive index of 1.77).

    To visually pass for a diamond in the eyes of an expert, a stone needs to have a refractive index not too far from diamond AND an optical dispersion not too far from diamond AND not too much birefringence. Slilicon carbide fails quite badly at the latter 2 criteria and visually is a worse substitute for diamond than cubic zirconia. Some people claim that the latter still has "too much flame", but I'm quite sceptical that many people would be able to visually tell the difference, even with good lightning and magnification. I believe I once read jewelers pick out cubic zirconia based on its material properties (density and/or thermal conductivity, which are both very different from diamond - more so than silicon carbide).

    Of course, if you don't care that a gem passes for a diamond, only that it looks good, then one could argue "the more dispersion, the better". Though some would object that too much color would make it look tacky. There's no accounting for taste (and neither for BS people perpetuate to sound "refined").

  15. Re:Glass diamond? by Ecuador · · Score: 4, Informative

    I proposed with silicon carbide (moissanite). Indeed more brilliant than a diamond, and my wife loved both the fact that it was not a blood diamond and also that silicon carbide in nature is found in meteorites. So it is a lab grown alien gem basically, more spectacular than a diamond at around $500/carat.
    The thing is, diamonds are quite common in nature, their scarcity is artificial. So you are paying through the nose for something that is abundant just because of the De Beers racket.

    --
    Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent. Polar Scope Align for iOS
  16. Diamond tech by DrYak · · Score: 3

    (1) Have manufacturing costs declined enough to flood the market?

    They are much more cheaper to produce in a lab than extract from the ground.

    But they haven't been flooding the market, because marking/PR has managed to make the target audience think that even if the same carbon atoms(*) are in the same place, somehow it's only "the real deal" if some child slave did dig it from the ground, not if some white lab coat put them together.

    You can buy them, for a lower price than "real" diamond. But interest is lower. Some girls insist in having child slavery-produced lumps of carbon on their engagement ring, for whatever reason...

    On the other hand industry simply LOVES them : you get the exact same properties as "real" diamond, but you get them much cheaper and you have better control on the impurities and flaws.

    ---

    (*) : As opposed to say diamond simulant - gems that look supperficially alike but have completely different composition (Zirkon, etc.)

    (2) Are they deliberately flawing these synthetic diamonds

    Yes, technique has evolved to let you control the impurities that get inside the lab grown diamond, because some have interesting properties that are desirable...

    to pass them for the natural thing,

    ...diamond are very heavily tracked (they are micro etched, they come with certificates) in order to enable tracking of the origin (e.g.: to try to avoid "blood" diamonds)
    Of course conterfeits *are* a thing also in diamond land.
    But that means somebody is going to find out that more diamond are tracked back to a given mine that said mine is producing.

    since natural diamonds are truly scarce?

    Actually, even the "real" diamond aren't *that* scares. It's simply DeBeers trying to release them into the market in a controlled fashison to keep them even more scare and keep their price higher.
    As they still have a sizeable chunk of the diamond market, they can still manage to pull some influence this way.

    If the answer to either question is "Yes", then the value of the diamond market will collapse soon.

    Currently no, the market doesn't collapse (outside of the industry), because marketing/PR has managed to put a spin that the child slave labor is a necessity to make it "real" even if the same carbon atoms are in the same position as when a white lab coat does it.

    The industry doesn't give a fuck, and there, the market for De Beers has evaporated as better techniques have evolved to progressively produce more of what the industry craves for.

    --
    "Sufficiently advanced satire is indistinguishable from reality." - [Tips: 1DrYakQDKCQ6y52z6QbnkxHXAocMZJE61o ]
  17. DeBeers is an evil company by sjbe · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Lab grown are not special, they're not real, they're not unique.

    That's a complete crock of shit. Digging a rock out of the ground doesn't make it special. I don't even get the "not real" comment aside from being a bunch of marketing bullshit. It's a diamond chemically no different from any other diamond in any way that actually matters. And they are every bit as unique as a diamond you dig out of the ground and in fact can be made to have specific desired properties.

    De Beers says the man-made diamonds will not compete with mined stones. It's so adamant about this that it will not grade them in the traditional way. "We're not grading our lab-grown diamonds because we don't think they deserve to be graded," Cleaver said. "They're all the same."

    This is basically an admission that the lab made stones are every bit as good as the ones they dig up so they need to pretend that they are different somehow. Making diamonds in a lab is functionally identical to opening a new diamond mine. It increases supply. DeBeers has had a monopoly on distribution for ages because they controlled the supply of diamonds. They literally keep huge numbers of them out of circulation to prop up prices. The problem for them is that they cannot control supply if anyone can make a diamond so they are trying to create an artificial distinction between dug up diamonds versus lab made ones. If you actually buy this malarkey you are an idiot.

    If someone is smart what they will do is label lab made diamonds as "conflict free lab grade pure diamond" as opposed to dirty dug up diamonds so you can be sure that they aren't supporting terrorism, oppression, etc.