Oh, forgot one last important difference: You have to use a cross between the Dark Forces stormtrooper rifle and the German submachine gun from RTCW. The most accurate weapon you can buy is about as accurate as the tommy gun from BioShock, minus the climb.
If you like playing FPSes you can try paintball. It's just like Counter-Strike, except the force feedback is turned up way too high, your character moves like Strelok does when his backpack's nearly overloaded, and your monitor gets foggy sometimes.
But it's not all gloom and doom. Nobody calls you a fag or draws giant penises on the walls, n00bs get helpful tips rather than being laughed at, and the losing team is quite civil and shakes hands and says "good game," rather than saying they'll find you and tie you up and rape your family to death in front of you and then kill you.
That would be hard to say. Running it for literally 5 seconds per month would definitely do more harm than good. For an average car, if you park it with the battery disconnected, I'd say at least a half-hour of driving per month (a half-hour per week would be ideal). That will get the engine up to full operating temperature, scrape the rust off the brake discs, give it more than enough time to charge the battery back up, and once the tires are warmed up that should get the flat spots out. You'd want to drive it hard once it's warmed up, driving cars too gently all the time allows carbon deposits to build up in the cylinders. Before oil changes, you should spray some carb cleaner down the carb/intake while revving the engine (WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY. IF YOU GET THAT SHIT IN YOUR EYES YOU'LL WISH IT WAS BRAKE CLEANER INSTEAD). This will clean oily deposits from the intake and blast carbon buildup out of the cylinders. And of course if you don't drive a car often you should use fuel stabilizer. There are fuel system cleaner chemicals you can add to your fuel to help de-gunk the system a bit.
Tires are different from most things on a car. They get a little more "crusty" (less sticky/grippy, more like hard plastic) every time they're heat cycled and will dry rot even if they aren't. The best way to store tires is off the car and ideally in a sealed container, but even then, they'll deteriorate with age.
Your position would only solve the moral conundrum if it was instead legally forced for every website to somehow convey their collection levels before ever collected.
And to get a feel for how this would work, try browsing something like CNN using Lynx. How do you like all those cookie prompts? Now imagine it literally times six: Not just traditional cookies, but disk cached images (used as part of evercookies AKA zombie cookies), Flash storage, HTML5 storage, geolocation data requests, and Javascript. And soon maybe Google's NaCL, AKA ActiveX 2: Fail Harder.
I solve this by taking a whitelist approach. Want my browser to run your scripts/flash or accept your cookies? Only if I allow it. Disable disk caching because it's not worth allowing evercookies to survive. Set flash storage to clear on browser exit. Disable geolocation API and HTML5 storage, because I can't control access to those individually (yet). Problems solved.
Conventional tube frame, RSX powertrain, although I keep thinking about electric powertrains (I'll be kicking myself if they surpass ICE performance shortly after the car's done) or some TT LS1/LS6 monster (might be doable if there was an affordable transaxle that could handle that power in a mid-longitudinal layout...)
You do realize they're not always delivering these loads to convenient water-accessible locations with no hills in the way, right?
But I guess they could deliver it across some water and then take it the rest of the way with...*drumroll*...a truck! And repeat as necessary for other water crossings.
I was just about to ask if they're going to keep the original books on board. Because iPad batteries could fail suddenly. iPads could catch viruses. I remember when my Treo 650 that I was using as a GPS had it's battery crap out in the middle of an offroad rally. The backlight was flickering a bit earlier in the day but there was no other warning, the battery had suddenly swollen up and died. I was out in the middle of bumfuck nowhere late at night, off-route and completely lost, and my navigator was feeling sick (turned out he was coming down with appendicitis). I had my N900 but it only had street maps which are quite useless (and IIRC not allowed at that time, but I had just called in to let rally control know I was dropping out) for this purpose (we use nautical-style GPS).
Luckily I could find my way back to civilization and was safely on the ground the whole time.
Some carriers already do this (for cable/DSL at least, don't know of any cell carriers that do it). They give cap exemptions for Netflix, Facebook and Windows Update. Some airline wifi services give free Facebook access but make you pay for other stuff.
My idea is to basically have the holes and fittings for the master cylinders and steering rack duplicated on both sides, and to have a section of hydraulic hard line that's removable between the left or right sides and the lines going to the brakes and clutch in the center. So one side has blanks covering the holes in the firewall and the controls are installed in the other side. To swap them, you move the steering rack and gauge cluster (remember I planned an easy to work on modular dash), move the pedals and master cylinders across, installing different lines shaped for the other side, bleed the brakes and you're done. It would be a day-long job but not a massive amount of work, I don't plan to be swapping it back and forth regularly.
I really don't like the idea of chains or belts in the steering column if they aren't necessary...I plan to try a depowered rack first and go with an electro-hydraulic setup if it's too heavy (direct-drive electric assistance sounds great in theory but usually ends up feeling terrible). The Elise gets away with a manual rack, and I'm looking at equal or lower weight but slightly larger wheels.
Custom Elise-like mid-engined thing. It'll probably cost almost as much as an Elise when it's done, but at least this way I'll get exactly what I want, and if I need to stop spending on it I can put the build on hold, and won't have a ruined credit rating and repo men at my door:-P
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Oh, forgot one last important difference: You have to use a cross between the Dark Forces stormtrooper rifle and the German submachine gun from RTCW. The most accurate weapon you can buy is about as accurate as the tommy gun from BioShock, minus the climb.
If you like playing FPSes you can try paintball. It's just like Counter-Strike, except the force feedback is turned up way too high, your character moves like Strelok does when his backpack's nearly overloaded, and your monitor gets foggy sometimes.
But it's not all gloom and doom. Nobody calls you a fag or draws giant penises on the walls, n00bs get helpful tips rather than being laughed at, and the losing team is quite civil and shakes hands and says "good game," rather than saying they'll find you and tie you up and rape your family to death in front of you and then kill you.
Stealing his thunder!?
How I reacted to Steve Jobs retiring: "meh. Hopefully the next guy won't be such a control freak."
How I reactived to CmdrTaco leaving: "OOOH NOOOES HOW CAN THERE BE SLASHDOT WITHOUT TACO!?!? T_T "
At least you can potentially reach somewhere with attractive single women by car. It could be a lot worse, trust me.
Myth. I'm tall, hasn't done shit for me. Maybe it's an American woman thing?
I'm pretty sure he meant rarer than diamonds allowed onto the market by DeBeers.
Hey are you on GRM forums? I'm on there with the same username. If you aren't on there you should join up, it's one of the best car forums.
I hope I have some personality or I am SOL.
That would be hard to say. Running it for literally 5 seconds per month would definitely do more harm than good. For an average car, if you park it with the battery disconnected, I'd say at least a half-hour of driving per month (a half-hour per week would be ideal). That will get the engine up to full operating temperature, scrape the rust off the brake discs, give it more than enough time to charge the battery back up, and once the tires are warmed up that should get the flat spots out. You'd want to drive it hard once it's warmed up, driving cars too gently all the time allows carbon deposits to build up in the cylinders. Before oil changes, you should spray some carb cleaner down the carb/intake while revving the engine (WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY. IF YOU GET THAT SHIT IN YOUR EYES YOU'LL WISH IT WAS BRAKE CLEANER INSTEAD). This will clean oily deposits from the intake and blast carbon buildup out of the cylinders. And of course if you don't drive a car often you should use fuel stabilizer. There are fuel system cleaner chemicals you can add to your fuel to help de-gunk the system a bit.
Tires are different from most things on a car. They get a little more "crusty" (less sticky/grippy, more like hard plastic) every time they're heat cycled and will dry rot even if they aren't. The best way to store tires is off the car and ideally in a sealed container, but even then, they'll deteriorate with age.
Your position would only solve the moral conundrum if it was instead legally forced for every website to somehow convey their collection levels before ever collected.
And to get a feel for how this would work, try browsing something like CNN using Lynx. How do you like all those cookie prompts? Now imagine it literally times six: Not just traditional cookies, but disk cached images (used as part of evercookies AKA zombie cookies), Flash storage, HTML5 storage, geolocation data requests, and Javascript. And soon maybe Google's NaCL, AKA ActiveX 2: Fail Harder.
I solve this by taking a whitelist approach. Want my browser to run your scripts/flash or accept your cookies? Only if I allow it. Disable disk caching because it's not worth allowing evercookies to survive. Set flash storage to clear on browser exit. Disable geolocation API and HTML5 storage, because I can't control access to those individually (yet). Problems solved.
...I got better...
Conventional tube frame, RSX powertrain, although I keep thinking about electric powertrains (I'll be kicking myself if they surpass ICE performance shortly after the car's done) or some TT LS1/LS6 monster (might be doable if there was an affordable transaxle that could handle that power in a mid-longitudinal layout...)
Spinning out of control? Just avoid flying it in that way.
Yeah Microsoft can't fix a feature that works fine in most other OSes so they remove it entirely. Great work guys. Great work.
It turned me into a newt!
You do realize they're not always delivering these loads to convenient water-accessible locations with no hills in the way, right?
But I guess they could deliver it across some water and then take it the rest of the way with...*drumroll*...a truck! And repeat as necessary for other water crossings.
I was just about to ask if they're going to keep the original books on board. Because iPad batteries could fail suddenly. iPads could catch viruses. I remember when my Treo 650 that I was using as a GPS had it's battery crap out in the middle of an offroad rally. The backlight was flickering a bit earlier in the day but there was no other warning, the battery had suddenly swollen up and died. I was out in the middle of bumfuck nowhere late at night, off-route and completely lost, and my navigator was feeling sick (turned out he was coming down with appendicitis). I had my N900 but it only had street maps which are quite useless (and IIRC not allowed at that time, but I had just called in to let rally control know I was dropping out) for this purpose (we use nautical-style GPS).
Luckily I could find my way back to civilization and was safely on the ground the whole time.
So, tagged article "whatcouldpossiblygowrong."
Some carriers already do this (for cable/DSL at least, don't know of any cell carriers that do it). They give cap exemptions for Netflix, Facebook and Windows Update. Some airline wifi services give free Facebook access but make you pay for other stuff.
Wow, on my home connection alone I go through about 9GB per day. According to my router logs I have one day in June running nearly 18GB down.
Hopefully just common supplies...imagine if Robonaut was on that thing...
s/move the steering rack and gauge cluster/swap the steering rack and move the guage cluster/g
My idea is to basically have the holes and fittings for the master cylinders and steering rack duplicated on both sides, and to have a section of hydraulic hard line that's removable between the left or right sides and the lines going to the brakes and clutch in the center. So one side has blanks covering the holes in the firewall and the controls are installed in the other side. To swap them, you move the steering rack and gauge cluster (remember I planned an easy to work on modular dash), move the pedals and master cylinders across, installing different lines shaped for the other side, bleed the brakes and you're done. It would be a day-long job but not a massive amount of work, I don't plan to be swapping it back and forth regularly.
I really don't like the idea of chains or belts in the steering column if they aren't necessary...I plan to try a depowered rack first and go with an electro-hydraulic setup if it's too heavy (direct-drive electric assistance sounds great in theory but usually ends up feeling terrible). The Elise gets away with a manual rack, and I'm looking at equal or lower weight but slightly larger wheels.
Custom Elise-like mid-engined thing. It'll probably cost almost as much as an Elise when it's done, but at least this way I'll get exactly what I want, and if I need to stop spending on it I can put the build on hold, and won't have a ruined credit rating and repo men at my door :-P
The S2 Elise manual says the "main outer panels" are plastic.