most worms cannot spread because my computers cannot receive a packet from any machine without software on my machine actively establishing a connection first. No exceptions.
No exceptions, except for laptops, netbooks, and other various-and-sundry gear which travels between networks.
Your walled garden may, indeed, have walls. But it also has unguarded gates through which anything may pass.
I've wanted a telephone recording app for my Droid...ever since I got my Droid. I live in a one-party state, so it's no big deal to record calls when I deem it useful.
I have a funky little microphone from Olympus that fits into my ear and does a very good job of capturing my own voice and the audio from the telephone's earspeaker, but carrying that and the digital recorder that goes with it is bothersome -- let alone cabling it all up to use it.
My 7-year-old, $6 Logitech optical rodent only takes a few inches of mousemat to traverse all of the 3,520 pixels that my desktop is wide.
Perhaps you should adjust your settings, or your expectations, or just consider the regular sweeping arm movement to be part of your own personal Wellness Program.
Also commonly packaged as "brake cleaner" (except in California).
The stuff does evaporate very quickly, at least in the quantities I'm familiar with. I use it as a general-purpose cleaner/degreaser on all kinds of stuff, and I keep a can of it in the basement to quickly and quietly dispatch any of the horriblespiders that can be found down there.
What if you live at work? Most of us in the US don't, but in a Chinese factory things are a bit different.
The closest I can think for an analogy is the military. Where does an airman (or a soldier, or whoever) kill himself, if he lives and works in the same compound?
DOA is one thing: It's easy to remedy, and it doesn't affect services that are already operating (though it may push back the start date on new services). The solution is easy: Just print an RMA form and label and send it back to the chumps that sold it to you. The causes are varied, but mishandling, ESD, and shipping damage seem like likely candidates.
Dead after a moderate period of time is another thing entirely. It can disrupt services that people are already accustomed to using, and it's more of a pain in the ass because you have to deal with the manufacturer instead of the reseller, and they might end up replacing it with something completely different (but "equivalent") instead.
Of the nine remaining (non-DOA) drives, how many are still in service?
Coming from rural Ohio, we don't say "crap," even in polite company. Things instead are referred to as "pieces of shit," as if to say that the items were once part of a greater system of shit.
For example: "This router is a piece of shit."
I thought this made sense until we had a dude from New Zealand in town to do some training. His word usements were similar, but had totally different meaning: Instead of referring to an item to be a piece of some (presumably larger) collection of shit, his manner of speech was such that he would declare the item itself to be an wholly and independently comprised of shit, while saving a few syllables at the same time.
For example: "This router is shit." Or, using a pronoun: "It is shit," or "They're shit."
It's much more direct, easier to say, and makes no presumption about the thing's lineage (but rather only the current state of the thing itself), so I've adopted its usage myself.
I never hear anyone else use it so declaratively. So it's amusing to see folks quibble over the correctness of the roughly-equivalent terms "BT is crap" and "BT are crap."
I myself am not very paranoid (I have no particular reason to be), but I try to remain aware. I've not really considered the notion of my WiFi widgets MAC addresses being funneled into a database.
I think the "some reason" is that often a lot of time and energy is expended in the hobbyist world just trying to get some manner of character display from an inexpensive standalone device -- let alone something capable of displaying graphics.
This widget speaks HDMI and (by extension) it also speaks DVI. And that means that of the standalone 7 LCD monitors in my own house (including "televisions"), it works with all of them.
It's $25 (or $35 for one with Ethernet, more RAM, and another USB port), and uses 1 Watt under load. I can think of a number of good uses for the thing that I don't bother implementing on an old PC:
The old PC doesn't have DVI or HDMI (this adds cost, if not being impossible on a laptop)
The old PC has moving parts (this means it will fail, and that I will spend more time fucking with it than I would a device that has no moving parts)
The old PC uses way more power (this costs me money) at idle than this does under load, and almost certainly more even if it is asleep. With this widget, I don't have to worry about such arcanity as "sleep," as it costs almost nothing to run.
And: The old PC is worth more on the used market (and maybe even the Craigslist market) than this widget costs new. Depending on the age of the PC, it'd be easy to sell it and get two or three of these widgets without ever even slightly ripping anybody off.
Stated like that, it sounds almost as useless as the fluff about small-scale butane-powered fuel cells and tiny little gas turbines that I saw on these very pages a decade or so ago, none of which seem to have actually materialized.
Why not just skip the energy conversion from heat to light that makes this new widget special, and just use the correct mix of fuel/air/catalyst/whatever to make coal/oil/gas burn -bright- (instead of merely hot), and use a photovoltaic without any new wizardry?
Of course, it'd be blindingly inefficient compared to running a steam turbine with the same fuel. But then, so is this other gadget...
I think there's a lot of new applications which open up with a contained method for converting heat into electricity without moving parts: If it's small enough, it can help my phone recharge (or at least discharge more slowly) if I leave it in a hot car, for instance.
But replacing large steam turbines seems a little far-fetched. You'd still need substantial cooling if you want substantial power output, which generally means using water, which -- gosh -- generally means that it's easy to just drive a turbine instead.
(That said, it might be fun to capture some of the waste energy from existing steam turbine plants...)
Your ex girlfriend's access point's MAC address is not entirely unlikely to already be searchable on wigle.net.
(Her client devices' MAC addresses are another story, though -- you might find out where her Linksys box lives, but you won't discover which gym she goes to.)
The mobile data network is different from WiFi. Even if a MAC address (in the conventional sense) is used for assigning IP addresses (which I doubt -- not even IPV6 is sufficient reason for VZW (et cetera) to not NAT the hell out of everything), that MAC will not be the same as the WiFi adapter.
Two different interfaces, two different MAC addresses.
Maybe. Does it have hardware support for video decoding? (And just as importantly: Are there drivers for this?)
The only way we're able to get away with playing MPEG4-ish video on cheap, low-powered portable devices these days is because of the amount of work being done in specialized hardware instead of with software.
If all the Pi provides is a glorified framebuffer, I'm strongly inclined to say that it's not going to be a very fun video player.
I wasn't considering isolating things on the power side of stuff. This, indeed, works fine. The bench geeks at work used to use them when working on CRT TVs, back when people still cared to fix such things. But it takes a fair bit of copper and iron to put any real current through one, which tends to make them expensive. If you own your house, I submit that it's still better to fix it right.:)
Surge suppression is a mixed bag. I use a fancy rackmountable Tripp-Lite unit for my AV gear, and a full online sinewave UPS from the same company for my computer gear.
But amusingly, I tossed a Tripp-Lite surge suppressed plug strip just today. The power switch was -hot- and stinky, and it eventually opened up completely. (Could've been far too interesting if not for that latter part.)
I'm allergic to anything touched by Bob Carver, so I'll never know how his Sunfire subs work. I've listened to some very small subs from Velodyne recently which were rather awesome, though...
But at my house, I build my own subwoofers. It's too easy to get it right, and it's fun to over-engineer the enclosure. My favorite sub weighs 105 pounds, has primary structural components made entirely from cardboard, and went together in about 2 hours. It needs replaced because the driver is beginning to fall apart after 15 years and I'm getting tired of fixing it, but I've always been abundantly pleased with it.
It's crossed over at little bit less than 80Hz, so it disappears rather well.
You're forgetting the other side of the equation: Efficiency. A set of big Klipsch speakers (or any efficient PA speaker, for that matter) can be cleanly driven to eviction levels with a very small handful Watts from a very small, lightweight amplifier, for example.
2 - Able to drive 6 ohm speakers. The speakers optimally will be front-ported or sealed. (bouncing the bass off of the corner behind the speaker and back at you is very inefficient). The speakers should have no smaller than 6 inch woofers( 5 if it's a very good or special design). 8 for the mains is nice as it makes a sub somewhat optional. This is exactly like car audio in that 4 inchers generally sound like crap.
Being able to drive low impedances is good. My personal favorite amp is an old MOSFET design which is rated to drive a dead short.
But port location almost doesn't matter: It's a Helmholtz resonator, which is just an acoustic low-pass filter. A properly-aligned ported loudspeaker which can play low will have a correspondingly low port frequency, and at 30-40Hz bass is very nondirectional indeed.
And again, size doesn't matter. Suppose I present to you two different speakers, one 6" and one 8". I've measured the QES, QMS, Vas, and free-air resonance of each one, and found all of the figures to be identical. Despite difference in cone area, they will perform identically at low frequencies in a box of identical volume, at least at low power (according to Thiele and Small, anyway).
But which one is capable of cleanly producing more low frequency pressure at higher power levels?
I know you want to say that the 8" speaker is, but the fact is that it's a trick question. There is no answer: I simply haven't given enough information to make a determination.
The only appropriate response is something along the line of "What the Xmax of the two drivers?" Armed with Xmax, you can determine which one can produce higher levels of low bass, but without it you're just guessing.
4 - the sub should be a proper dual-coil design and be at least 10 inches in diameter. It should, of course, have its own amplifier so as to not overwork the main unit. Be sure to plug it into the same circuit as the amp or use an isolator to keep ground-loop hum out of the equation. I personally like Sunfire, though YMMV.
Why dual voice coil? Are you feeding each coil a different signal? Doing so works OK, sometimes, in a system using passive crossover on a budget, but there's problems with that: The parameters of the driver change depending on whether one or the other or both coils are being driven.
So, while it works OK, it's not really very ideal. Generally speaking, DVC drivers make lousy mixers.
DVC drivers are typically intended to have their coils wired together either in series or in parallel (or, I suppose, you could use just one), to allow flexibility in selecting an impedance and/or changing the Qes. Once wired up, it behaves exactly like a single-coil driver, which isn't improper at all.
If you've got an active crossover and a single subwoofer it's better to sum the signals electronically, and treat it as a single loudspeaker. My crossover lets me do this with the push of a button.
If you're just trying to use both channels of a stereo amp to drive a single sub and make the most of what you've got, there's other ways to do that, too. Just bridge the amp and use it in mono. This works the same for all woofers, whether DVC or not.
But, again: Why should it be at least 10 inches? That's just one parameter of the soup, and it's one of the least important ones...
Meanwhile: "Ground loop isolators" are inherently garbage, and represent additional complexity (a transformer) to the audio path where there needn't be anything but a bit of wire. They sometimes can hide (but will not eliminate) a dangerous situation. If you've got hum o
Switch-mode power supplies can reduce weight considerably. (Whether they reduce audio quality is a debate with too many variables to generalize.)
And you can convey full sound through little 5 or 6 inch drivers, though not through those of the miserable sort: Dynaudio used to produce some with excellent response down to about 40Hz which sounded positively wonderful. (The only miserable thing about them was paying for them.)
Similarly, you can get absolutely paltry results from larger-diameter drivers: Surface area is only one component of a loudspeaker system. I have a pair of quite old ESS AMT-1 speakers which have 10" woofers and they're positively anemic when it comes to low bass, but they work quite well for everything above that. (They mate well with a subwoofer covering the bottom two octaves.)
And it's ancient news, indeed: Forget the Intarwebs. People have been discussing this in technical journals for about 80 years.
I conversed back and forth with TheGratefulNet in email about, of all things, volume controls. He's a good dude, and really seems to approach things the right way, with high technical competency, good communication, open-source ideals, and a firm goal of keeping things in the US.
Just saying. There's a few (very few) other audio vendors I've dealt with who, irrespective of size, were good at two or three of the above, but never all four. It stands out.
I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Chess? "Move, move, move, hurry, hurry, hurry" writes the kid at the other end. "This isn't a timed match," I say.
Shooters? I don't have enough time to bother learning every wall hack and rocket jump opportunity.
Racers? Driving through opponents is boring.
Fighting? I'm not 12 enough to have reflexes like that anymore...
RTS? Meh. I played TA a few times online, only to be disappointed with death as I went through the build tree to get some proper defenses going, and was flooded with cheap light-weight attacks. (Yes, it's a design fault.)
Citi did have a service called c2it, which closed in 2003. I used it once for an Ebay buy and it worked fine.
At the time, they were offering folks $10 off of their first transaction, which put my $22 Ebay purchase down to $12. (Who knows what they were thinking with that.)
Yes, but I've played the hell out of my "free" copy of Infamous, and enjoyed it thoroughly. I'll be picking up Infamous 2 at the used game store whenever it comes down in price a bit.
I also got a couple of legit games for my PSP, even though it currently doesn't know how to log into PSN, and is quite thoroughly hacked (so I don't really care).:)
I didn't care much that PSN was down. I got my PS3 copy of Portal 2 activated on Steam just a few hours prior, and the "free" PC version worked fine. And Netflix still worked during the outage, using some mechanism which I am surprised that nobody bothered to analyze.
NES and SNES stuff works just fine on my PSP. PSX stuff is more of a pain to make work, though. And I've still got my PSX hardware (and a bunch of games for it) but I don't ever find it necessary to plug it in. (Some of this is probably related to the fact that most of the PSX games that I've enjoyed have much improved PS3 versions which are just as much fun to play, and far prettier.)
And I hate PC-based emulators. They've never felt right. It is inexplicable.
I've had way more fun playing Devil's Crush (an old and horribly addictive pinball game from the Turbografx 16) on my Wii than I ever did playing it on a PC.
Slashdot Mirror
No exceptions, except for laptops, netbooks, and other various-and-sundry gear which travels between networks.
Your walled garden may, indeed, have walls. But it also has unguarded gates through which anything may pass.
I'd also like to know what it's called.
I've wanted a telephone recording app for my Droid...ever since I got my Droid. I live in a one-party state, so it's no big deal to record calls when I deem it useful.
I have a funky little microphone from Olympus that fits into my ear and does a very good job of capturing my own voice and the audio from the telephone's earspeaker, but carrying that and the digital recorder that goes with it is bothersome -- let alone cabling it all up to use it.
Weird.
My 7-year-old, $6 Logitech optical rodent only takes a few inches of mousemat to traverse all of the 3,520 pixels that my desktop is wide.
Perhaps you should adjust your settings, or your expectations, or just consider the regular sweeping arm movement to be part of your own personal Wellness Program.
Also commonly packaged as "brake cleaner" (except in California).
The stuff does evaporate very quickly, at least in the quantities I'm familiar with. I use it as a general-purpose cleaner/degreaser on all kinds of stuff, and I keep a can of it in the basement to quickly and quietly dispatch any of the horrible spiders that can be found down there.
Maybe.
What if you live at work? Most of us in the US don't, but in a Chinese factory things are a bit different.
The closest I can think for an analogy is the military. Where does an airman (or a soldier, or whoever) kill himself, if he lives and works in the same compound?
DOA is one thing: It's easy to remedy, and it doesn't affect services that are already operating (though it may push back the start date on new services). The solution is easy: Just print an RMA form and label and send it back to the chumps that sold it to you. The causes are varied, but mishandling, ESD, and shipping damage seem like likely candidates.
Dead after a moderate period of time is another thing entirely. It can disrupt services that people are already accustomed to using, and it's more of a pain in the ass because you have to deal with the manufacturer instead of the reseller, and they might end up replacing it with something completely different (but "equivalent") instead.
Of the nine remaining (non-DOA) drives, how many are still in service?
Coming from rural Ohio, we don't say "crap," even in polite company. Things instead are referred to as "pieces of shit," as if to say that the items were once part of a greater system of shit.
For example: "This router is a piece of shit."
I thought this made sense until we had a dude from New Zealand in town to do some training. His word usements were similar, but had totally different meaning: Instead of referring to an item to be a piece of some (presumably larger) collection of shit, his manner of speech was such that he would declare the item itself to be an wholly and independently comprised of shit, while saving a few syllables at the same time.
For example: "This router is shit." Or, using a pronoun: "It is shit," or "They're shit."
It's much more direct, easier to say, and makes no presumption about the thing's lineage (but rather only the current state of the thing itself), so I've adopted its usage myself.
I never hear anyone else use it so declaratively. So it's amusing to see folks quibble over the correctness of the roughly-equivalent terms "BT is crap" and "BT are crap."
Until today, I'd find it very easy to believe.
I myself am not very paranoid (I have no particular reason to be), but I try to remain aware. I've not really considered the notion of my WiFi widgets MAC addresses being funneled into a database.
Until -- again -- today.
I think the "some reason" is that often a lot of time and energy is expended in the hobbyist world just trying to get some manner of character display from an inexpensive standalone device -- let alone something capable of displaying graphics.
This widget speaks HDMI and (by extension) it also speaks DVI. And that means that of the standalone 7 LCD monitors in my own house (including "televisions"), it works with all of them.
It's $25 (or $35 for one with Ethernet, more RAM, and another USB port), and uses 1 Watt under load. I can think of a number of good uses for the thing that I don't bother implementing on an old PC:
The old PC doesn't have DVI or HDMI (this adds cost, if not being impossible on a laptop)
The old PC has moving parts (this means it will fail, and that I will spend more time fucking with it than I would a device that has no moving parts)
The old PC uses way more power (this costs me money) at idle than this does under load, and almost certainly more even if it is asleep. With this widget, I don't have to worry about such arcanity as "sleep," as it costs almost nothing to run.
And: The old PC is worth more on the used market (and maybe even the Craigslist market) than this widget costs new. Depending on the age of the PC, it'd be easy to sell it and get two or three of these widgets without ever even slightly ripping anybody off.
(Nevermind a new PC, which costs $hundreds.)
Stated like that, it sounds almost as useless as the fluff about small-scale butane-powered fuel cells and tiny little gas turbines that I saw on these very pages a decade or so ago, none of which seem to have actually materialized.
Why not just skip the energy conversion from heat to light that makes this new widget special, and just use the correct mix of fuel/air/catalyst/whatever to make coal/oil/gas burn -bright- (instead of merely hot), and use a photovoltaic without any new wizardry?
Of course, it'd be blindingly inefficient compared to running a steam turbine with the same fuel. But then, so is this other gadget...
I think there's a lot of new applications which open up with a contained method for converting heat into electricity without moving parts: If it's small enough, it can help my phone recharge (or at least discharge more slowly) if I leave it in a hot car, for instance.
But replacing large steam turbines seems a little far-fetched. You'd still need substantial cooling if you want substantial power output, which generally means using water, which -- gosh -- generally means that it's easy to just drive a turbine instead.
(That said, it might be fun to capture some of the waste energy from existing steam turbine plants...)
Your ex girlfriend's access point's MAC address is not entirely unlikely to already be searchable on wigle.net.
(Her client devices' MAC addresses are another story, though -- you might find out where her Linksys box lives, but you won't discover which gym she goes to.)
The mobile data network is different from WiFi. Even if a MAC address (in the conventional sense) is used for assigning IP addresses (which I doubt -- not even IPV6 is sufficient reason for VZW (et cetera) to not NAT the hell out of everything), that MAC will not be the same as the WiFi adapter.
Two different interfaces, two different MAC addresses.
Some of us appreciate our sysadmin several times a day.
(it takes some getting used to, but it does stop chafing once the calluses start building up.)
Suppose that there is a method to determine (with reasonable certainty) what your wireless MAC address is.
Suppose this method is just as simple as driving by a location where you are known to be present (ie: at home) while you're using WiFi.
What then?
Or: Suppose that you have legal reasons to be paranoid, and physical access to the device by armed thugs with jackboots is only a warrant away.
What then?
Or. Suppose that an app on your phone calls home with your MAC address.
What if it also knows your phone number?
What then?
Maybe. Does it have hardware support for video decoding? (And just as importantly: Are there drivers for this?)
The only way we're able to get away with playing MPEG4-ish video on cheap, low-powered portable devices these days is because of the amount of work being done in specialized hardware instead of with software.
If all the Pi provides is a glorified framebuffer, I'm strongly inclined to say that it's not going to be a very fun video player.
For $25, it'd make a damned fun sprinkler timer. Just saying.
It's also bound to be far more miserly of power than an old Pentium, and more efficient (in terms of Joules per unit of work) than a normal 386.
Besides: Who needs local storage if you've got network connectivity?
I wasn't considering isolating things on the power side of stuff. This, indeed, works fine. The bench geeks at work used to use them when working on CRT TVs, back when people still cared to fix such things. But it takes a fair bit of copper and iron to put any real current through one, which tends to make them expensive. If you own your house, I submit that it's still better to fix it right. :)
Surge suppression is a mixed bag. I use a fancy rackmountable Tripp-Lite unit for my AV gear, and a full online sinewave UPS from the same company for my computer gear.
But amusingly, I tossed a Tripp-Lite surge suppressed plug strip just today. The power switch was -hot- and stinky, and it eventually opened up completely. (Could've been far too interesting if not for that latter part.)
I'm allergic to anything touched by Bob Carver, so I'll never know how his Sunfire subs work. I've listened to some very small subs from Velodyne recently which were rather awesome, though...
But at my house, I build my own subwoofers. It's too easy to get it right, and it's fun to over-engineer the enclosure. My favorite sub weighs 105 pounds, has primary structural components made entirely from cardboard, and went together in about 2 hours. It needs replaced because the driver is beginning to fall apart after 15 years and I'm getting tired of fixing it, but I've always been abundantly pleased with it.
It's crossed over at little bit less than 80Hz, so it disappears rather well.
You're forgetting the other side of the equation: Efficiency. A set of big Klipsch speakers (or any efficient PA speaker, for that matter) can be cleanly driven to eviction levels with a very small handful Watts from a very small, lightweight amplifier, for example.
Being able to drive low impedances is good. My personal favorite amp is an old MOSFET design which is rated to drive a dead short.
But port location almost doesn't matter: It's a Helmholtz resonator, which is just an acoustic low-pass filter. A properly-aligned ported loudspeaker which can play low will have a correspondingly low port frequency, and at 30-40Hz bass is very nondirectional indeed.
And again, size doesn't matter. Suppose I present to you two different speakers, one 6" and one 8". I've measured the QES, QMS, Vas, and free-air resonance of each one, and found all of the figures to be identical. Despite difference in cone area, they will perform identically at low frequencies in a box of identical volume, at least at low power (according to Thiele and Small, anyway).
But which one is capable of cleanly producing more low frequency pressure at higher power levels?
I know you want to say that the 8" speaker is, but the fact is that it's a trick question. There is no answer: I simply haven't given enough information to make a determination.
The only appropriate response is something along the line of "What the Xmax of the two drivers?" Armed with Xmax, you can determine which one can produce higher levels of low bass, but without it you're just guessing.
Why dual voice coil? Are you feeding each coil a different signal? Doing so works OK, sometimes, in a system using passive crossover on a budget, but there's problems with that: The parameters of the driver change depending on whether one or the other or both coils are being driven.
So, while it works OK, it's not really very ideal. Generally speaking, DVC drivers make lousy mixers.
DVC drivers are typically intended to have their coils wired together either in series or in parallel (or, I suppose, you could use just one), to allow flexibility in selecting an impedance and/or changing the Qes. Once wired up, it behaves exactly like a single-coil driver, which isn't improper at all.
If you've got an active crossover and a single subwoofer it's better to sum the signals electronically, and treat it as a single loudspeaker. My crossover lets me do this with the push of a button.
If you're just trying to use both channels of a stereo amp to drive a single sub and make the most of what you've got, there's other ways to do that, too. Just bridge the amp and use it in mono. This works the same for all woofers, whether DVC or not.
But, again: Why should it be at least 10 inches? That's just one parameter of the soup, and it's one of the least important ones...
Meanwhile: "Ground loop isolators" are inherently garbage, and represent additional complexity (a transformer) to the audio path where there needn't be anything but a bit of wire. They sometimes can hide (but will not eliminate) a dangerous situation. If you've got hum o
I agree. A little.
Switch-mode power supplies can reduce weight considerably. (Whether they reduce audio quality is a debate with too many variables to generalize.)
And you can convey full sound through little 5 or 6 inch drivers, though not through those of the miserable sort: Dynaudio used to produce some with excellent response down to about 40Hz which sounded positively wonderful. (The only miserable thing about them was paying for them.)
Similarly, you can get absolutely paltry results from larger-diameter drivers: Surface area is only one component of a loudspeaker system. I have a pair of quite old ESS AMT-1 speakers which have 10" woofers and they're positively anemic when it comes to low bass, but they work quite well for everything above that. (They mate well with a subwoofer covering the bottom two octaves.)
And it's ancient news, indeed: Forget the Intarwebs. People have been discussing this in technical journals for about 80 years.
I conversed back and forth with TheGratefulNet in email about, of all things, volume controls. He's a good dude, and really seems to approach things the right way, with high technical competency, good communication, open-source ideals, and a firm goal of keeping things in the US.
Just saying. There's a few (very few) other audio vendors I've dealt with who, irrespective of size, were good at two or three of the above, but never all four. It stands out.
I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Meh. I never enjoyed online gaming anyway.
Chess? "Move, move, move, hurry, hurry, hurry" writes the kid at the other end. "This isn't a timed match," I say.
Shooters? I don't have enough time to bother learning every wall hack and rocket jump opportunity.
Racers? Driving through opponents is boring.
Fighting? I'm not 12 enough to have reflexes like that anymore...
RTS? Meh. I played TA a few times online, only to be disappointed with death as I went through the build tree to get some proper defenses going, and was flooded with cheap light-weight attacks. (Yes, it's a design fault.)
PSN on PSP? Could care less, really. :)
Citi did have a service called c2it, which closed in 2003. I used it once for an Ebay buy and it worked fine.
At the time, they were offering folks $10 off of their first transaction, which put my $22 Ebay purchase down to $12. (Who knows what they were thinking with that.)
Yes, but I've played the hell out of my "free" copy of Infamous, and enjoyed it thoroughly. I'll be picking up Infamous 2 at the used game store whenever it comes down in price a bit.
I also got a couple of legit games for my PSP, even though it currently doesn't know how to log into PSN, and is quite thoroughly hacked (so I don't really care). :)
I didn't care much that PSN was down. I got my PS3 copy of Portal 2 activated on Steam just a few hours prior, and the "free" PC version worked fine. And Netflix still worked during the outage, using some mechanism which I am surprised that nobody bothered to analyze.
*shrug*
This.
NES and SNES stuff works just fine on my PSP. PSX stuff is more of a pain to make work, though. And I've still got my PSX hardware (and a bunch of games for it) but I don't ever find it necessary to plug it in. (Some of this is probably related to the fact that most of the PSX games that I've enjoyed have much improved PS3 versions which are just as much fun to play, and far prettier.)
And I hate PC-based emulators. They've never felt right. It is inexplicable.
I've had way more fun playing Devil's Crush (an old and horribly addictive pinball game from the Turbografx 16) on my Wii than I ever did playing it on a PC.