Why should a company not be allowed to discontinue a product?
In the case of software...
It's software... a product which can be archived and copied at will. Often sold with hardware, the hardware does not function without it. Sure you can "migrate" to a new system but one shouldn't be forced to esp when the current information system WORKS.
I "should" be able to buy a copy of Atari Dos in the unlikely event my information system is based on old Ataries. I should be able to buy a copy of Lotus 1-2-3 v3.0 or dBase, if for nothing else to read old data for migration to newer systems. Even worse is Works, old verions are hard to find and office tends to not support Works at all. You pretty much have to export works data into something other than works for it to be useful.
And if no one wants to sell it to me, I SHOULD be able to contact the library of congress, and get a damned copy.
Thanks for all the info. I'm floored by the high cost per page by the inexpensive lasers (3-5 cents/page) and I think even adding in the color for the 4000, I'm still doing about as well at worst. This is the first ink jet that I've thought was great, but it's also the first time I've been buying reams every few months--the thing sees almost no inactivity of lengths of three days and probably one week only once a year. If I were the kind of person for whom a 2000 page toner cartridge took 2-3 years to use, I'd probably be much happier with a laser. All that said, I do miss waterproof.
Yes, many lasers are in excess of 3c/page, but that usually covers most maintance items. Lack of use doesn't change that figure.
With a printer like the canon, you do have to take into account the cost of the head, which based on my estimates, 10 cartridge changes is end of life. I've heard of more, I have experenced more, but 10 seems to be the life estimate. I base this on canon's numbers in the ip4000 service manual. Mechanicaly they rate the printer for 18,000 pages. Heads are sub $80, though I have seen them for $50. But $80 is MSRP. It's also equal to the value of the printer, on sale, with ink.
When you take my head estimate, which bumps up the price about $2.00/cart assuming a well rounded user. That bumps one up to about 2.9c/page, which again isn't all that bad. I'd guess an additional $60/year for color ink if you don't use it. Ths is assuming $11/tank each 9 months.
The head is a warranty item, so we don't have to include that until 1 year of use, but as it's roughly equal to the value of the printer, we can safely take on the in cost to the cost per page. Canon gives those out most flippently.
So the ip4000 "BAD" isn't all that bad in the big scheme of things.
Canon's page estimate for the ip4000 printer and head. Big black, 7200p using 1500 characters/page Color a4 5400 pages 7.5% page yield Color a4 300 boarderless photo Color 4x6 photo 3600p Color postcard 1500p
Based on my exprence, these figures are most conservative. Regular use seems to extend head life.
I'm quite embarased by this, but it's actually an PIXMA IP 4000. I realized this when you said there is no photo black (which I do have). In fact, I just replaced it for the first time, so that's in the mix on the duplex too (I've printed maybe 3 photos). I was wondering why I was going through so much colored ink when I print in color almost never. Now I'm going to have to observe thing thing anew to calculate my cost per page. Thanks for all the info!
Ah, I don't have direct experence with the ip4000, only the mp760 which is basicly an all in one ip4000.
I can't say I have noticed color use in duplex mode. As I do photos, I can only go by 2nd hand experence and say that other users of similar models noticed color use inspite of being text only users at a rate of aprox 1 set of small tanks every 6 to 12 months.
The printer does use cleaning cycles, which are based on a timer. If you don't use the printer for a set period of time, or use only big black or only color (where small black is a "color"), it does a cleaning cycle where the volume used depends on the length of time it was used.
I lack numbers on the ip4000, but I know on the ip5200.66g of "color" ink are used if you start printing and you have not used the printer for 120 - 336 hours. I would "guess" that means 90 cleanings or 9 months assuming.66g is divided among the 4 "color" tanks. My guess is consistent with 2nd hand info.
The largest timmer cycle is 90 days. where 1.95g big black and 1.06g "color" are spent, the same as a deep cleaning. Again this info is for the ip5200, and might be different on the ip4000.
There are printers which are not so wasteful, but this isn't horrible.
Epson sold a special ink that lasted 100 years Actually, the higher end Epson inks, which are generally used in their printers that cost over $500, when used with certain Epson papers, are guaranteed for 100 years. Actually, their durabright inks used in their cheep-o C/D printers are rated for 100+ years. A tad longer than their ultra chrome inks in the more spendy r series like the r800/1800/2400.
It gets a tad confusing when you start talking their pro and wide models, whether they are using their own heads and inks or that from xaar, but commercial are in another class than the home inkjets.
So just to be sure I understand (1) If I printed with manual duplex, I'd get just black (or mainly black) (2) When I print with auto duplex I get colors mixed in with black.
Do you know about non-oem ink that is water proof? 1) Flipping the pages by hand and either by printing odds and evens, or by using duplex on the OS side of things, i.e. not selecting duplex in the canon driver, will use the big black. You might not like it as it will tend to bleed somewhat to the back side of the page.
2) Yes, dye is mixed with the pigmented black. OEM dye is more spendy, and more so on the ip3000 since it doesn't have an extra black. Get a good loop and see for your self, or use a flatbed scanner. There are good reasons canon does it this way. It solves the problem of bleed through, dry time is faster, and your yield is extended so that there is less of a chance a full tank will run out during a given job. If you are happy with the results, great.
water proof) I wouldn't say water proof. I do have direct experence with image specalists bulk ink from www.inksupply.com. It is pigment based. I'm sure formulabs ink big black is also pigment based. I have noticed that I prefer the OEM black in some cases on some papers, but on your average non-coated paper I can't tell the difference, and image specalist's solution I would use on an envelope.
Also, you can tweek the printer's destination setting and use the new cli-8 dye ink on the ip3000. It'll be the pixus ip3100. I prefer the new ink in terms of rendering of skintones. This I have tested on the mp760, but one sort of has to trick the printer to be in Japanese mode without swiching over to the japanese language on screen and require the japanese driver.
If you have a $70 printer, I guess you're not too worried about these questions. But personally, I have a relatively good quality printer that I wouldn't want to jeopardize with third party ink (cartridges).
There are good quality $70 printers, there are also some lame ones.
But assuming something like an HP businessjet 2300, one of more cost effective printers I'm aware of. Even this is about $35/oz for color, about $15/oz for black. Bulk ink for this printer runs about $2.00/ounce for black, about $1.50 for color. Even for this printer the cost saving on bulk ink is about 90% assuming color and black are consumed at equal rates. So, 4 OEM cartridges for $135.96 vs the bulk ink which will run $13.57. This is a $500 printer, so if the printer explodes after the 4th refill, you have lost no money. But it just so happens that replacement heads are equal to the cost of OEM cartridges. If you have to replace the head every other refill, the savings is still close to 50%.
Expect to save about 80-90% using bulk ink, or about 50% on prefilled tanks depending on model.
My concern with third party ink is that, if I wanted to top of my HP cartridges with it, will it mess up the mechanisms in the print cartridge? Will that cause further damage to the printer itself? And as the parent mentioned, the first few pages might be fine, but what about later on? Will the ink clean the print heads well enough to keep them from clogging (incidentally, this has a larger impact on printers with print heads that are built in to the printer rather than the cartridges)? The choice is really yours. In an office enviroment where downtime would cost you more than the savings, I wouldn't bother. Home I would. My direct experence is with canon and epson using ink from inksupply.com which is an offical distrubter of Image Specalists ink. I can claim 6oz of ink on an ip3000 without an issue, but the issue was with the black and this was after I had already replaced the printer. Lack of use on a mp760 with OEM ink resulted in the same issue, black pigment banding.
Epsons tend to use Micropiezo, rather than thermal heads. Even though they are carefully alligned and not typicaly end user replaceable, those I would trust to pass just about anything through them. I consider them to be higher maintance than thermals, but the color rendering is superb. But epsons do use pumps for cleaning, rather than thermals that just boil.
But cleaning the heads, basicly dye ink is similar to blue windex. For a printer you plan to keep in service a long time you might consider cleaning cartridges, whether OEM or aftermarket.
I am willing to believe using other media will affect the printhead life. Could improve or reduce it. But given the cost of OEM ink vs the cost of printers and the cost of aftermarket solutions, even on $500 desktop printers, you save alot of money before there ever is an issue.
The only issue I have with bulk ink dye, or the pre-filled options on the market, is with print life. It's not like the major bulk ink manufacturers (Formulabs/sensient, Image Specalists, OCP, Lyson, and others) can't make an ink which will be as lightfast or as gasfast as OEMs. They just don't as the market. Bulk ink at under $1.00/ounce ($2.00/ounce at the consumer level).
Keep in mind that the cartridges which come with new inkjets are almost always low capacity, about 1/3 to 1/4 the amount of ink that's in the manufacturers retail cartridges.
I know many printers offer a low yield cartridge, but not all of them. You can usually tell if you shop and note if the store offers a standard and a high yield cartridge.
Epson for example, the models i've used don't come with low yield cartridges, it just seems like it because the priming cycle does waste a tad of ink. But if you buy a printer from the epson referb store, you can often buy it with ink for less than the ink. Good if you like the model, and you get a free spare.
The last canon models i've looked at, the ip5200/ip4300 for example, come with standard yield cartridges.
I use a cannon IP 3000 with duplex. I pay under $10/ cartridge and they last for about 1.5 reams (1500 page sides). Thats 2/3 cent/page side plus the paper (I'm picky and like my paper to be bright) which adds 2/3 cent per page side. Plus, the text looks great. Only problem is that it isn't water proof. Not sure I'm getting ripped off though.
If there was a cheap laser that was small and had duplex, I'd consider it. But last time I had one I found that the current it drew when it started was outrageous (my monitor and all my CFL's dimmed) and that it's sleep current was significantly higher than my ink jet. So, I returned it. I have direct experence with the canon ip3000, which I upgraded to an ip5200 since as part of learning japanese I took it upon my self to label my anime discs with furigana {ruby text/pronunciation above}, and there was anotable difference between the two models. For text the ip3000 is a perfectly fine machine. I'd have to check the specs but i'm pretty sure text has not improved in at least 10 years on the canon.
At 5% yield the black cartridge should last about 500 pages. at 1500 characters per page the yield should be about 740 pages. Duplex mode mixes color with the big black, so your page yield would be extended. But the color tanks are higher per page than others, and as we are talking about a model without a dye black, it does in all fairness use cyan/magenta/yellow in duplex for black text. I believe the issue is the canon's big black tends to bleed cross the page, and going with a mix of dye and pigment increases the dry time, and decreases the bleed through.
Manual duplex is more cost effective, esp on the ip3000. It's also more time effective as putting the paper back in the printer the last page printed is the most dry, rather than having to wait moments for a single sheet to dry before processed and flipped.
Also, this and other canon models, doesn't print object oriented, it's document oriented. As in it will use the big black for plain paper, mix colors to make black for other types. You can easily observe this by printing on matte paper something with much black and note how soggy it is when you select plain paper or matte paper.
Whether you are getting ripped off or not is a relative matter. Going with OEM ink on this model, standard simplex printing, is about 2.5c/page in the US typicaly speaking not including the head which does eventually clog or burn out. Color is used in the cleaning cycles, not as much as an Epson which uses a pump attached to the pladen to suck clean, but more so than head on the cartridge based HP models. It is IMHO a good general purpose printer.
Damn straight. A Fillet-o-Fish needs cheese. I love 'em, but they are the worst thing for you on McDonald's menu. 700+ Calories for a tiny sandwich, wow.
I read it as being 380 Calories.
Perhaps it's 700+ with a side of fries.
As much as I like Jack-in-the-Box, they are a high calorie option. Ultimate Cheeseburger 1010 calories Bacon Ultimate Cheeseburger 1090 calories Bacon 'n' Cheese Ciabatta Burger 1120 calories
Where Burker King seems to be king at 1230 calories for their tripple whopper.
i'm not sure about dairy queen, which I seem to remember had some tasty choices if nothing else was open.
>Also, as we are talking dual core CPUs, one has to get XP-pro or tablet/mediacenter edition. Costs too damned much, or too damned hard to find. Why do you need XP pro, XP Pro is only needed when you have 2 Processors, as in 2 physically separate chips, if you have dual/quad its fine on XP Home which only allows 1 Processor (but as many cores as you can cram onto that)
I could be mistaken on that front, if so it's a natural assumption the fact that most dual core systems ship with Media Center, Tablet, Pro, or Vista of various flavors.
However, if you are going to "try" to get the OEM to downgrade that PC to XP, odds are they will use media center.
Like I am depriving McDonald's of MY money when I make my own burger.
Gawd I hope so.
Not that i'm really a burger person, I prefer filet-o-fish my self. And McDonalds did have a good idea about the 1/2 slice of basic cheese. It really does provide a good balance of textures and flavors.
But I highly doubt the 1/2 slice of cheese is McDonnalds "Intelectual Property".
>I know ONE vista user, and she just bought a new laptop, with vista onboard. I know exactly two. One of them is a Microsoft recruiter, and the other just installed an MSDN version on his MacBook Pro, just so that he could learn the procedure (he has no plans to actually use it.) Technicaly I did meet one man who worked at microsoft with a Toshiba R20 (IIRC) tablet PC which was running a beta of vista. There had to have been a damned good reason to run vista as vista didn't support shifting the aspect from portrait to landscape, the pen wasn't supported, pretty much everything the PC was designed to be wasn't supported except the base minimum. And even then on 1gig of memory it was slugish. But I can't say I know him.
What kind of IDIOT would you have to be to pay for a "genuine" Vista in China when you can buy a "non-genuine" one for a dollar?!
This may be the point. No IDIOT would pay for Vista, as a result pirated editions are being advertised for $1.00 where xp would probally cost you more.
I don't even know one Vista user here in the States. This OS has been a real flop for Microsoft. Notice they don't give stats for actual activated copies of Vista or customer sales--they only give the numbers of OEM licenses sold. They did the same with XP to inflate the numbers.
I know ONE vista user, and she just bought a new laptop, with vista onboard.
The only big issue thus far, other than moving menus changing age old commands like search and replace with search and mark IIRC, is the lack of all in one printer drivers. For example the hp 3055 will print, but the software suite won't install.
She presently considers downgrading to XP to be a little extreme, as it's her belief that the world is going vista and she will be SOL with XP. You or I could just plop in the system restore discs, but this is a complaint from an average user. Also, as we are talking dual core CPUs, one has to get XP-pro or tablet/mediacenter edition. Costs too damned much, or too damned hard to find.
Aside from that, there are people who like the new flashy graphics. Even I somewhat like the new alt-tab program switcher where there is a carousel of screens which actually display what each window is presently displaying. But due to CPU use I wouldn't use it.
If there's a sign on the door that says "OPEN", then yes.If there's a sign on the door that says "OPEN", then yes.If there's a sign on the door that says "OPEN", then yes.
Well, there are a ton of wifi routers "open" for business. That's the problem. Even worse is "WindowsXP" on machines with wifi cards such as the ever popular cheepo dell laptop, all of which tend to latch onto the first WiFi network they encounter, without you knowing about it.
And come to think about it, not every business I visit has an open sign, or bothers to turn it on. Most notable in my experence are supermarkets, where the lights are on but nobody's home and the only indication of their hours are printed on a large card that can only be read easily in the daylight.
Come to think about it, I never know the hours of my local coffee shop, and have wondered in just as they were "closing" shop. This was not a criminal act, but a legit person seeking to purchace goods or service.
Needledoctor disagrees with you. Some of these styluses have ruby or diamond tips, and will run you a few thousand bucks a piece!
I rather thought diamond styli were the norm. Industrial diamonds don't have the same value has jeweler diamonds. Hell, even diamond chips are dirt cheap.
I have heard of ruby styli, but I can't say i've met one in decades. The last time I saw one was for a turntable with 78rpm and 16rpm speeds.
A base stylus will run you $20. You can spend more if you like. I can hear the difference among different turntables so I imagine there is a good reason to spend more.
Regarding (1) and (2), you gotta replace the pickup of your CD player as well, although, admittedly, on properly designed players it takes a tad longer. Last year I had to perform this stunt on my 1988 Sony CDP470; before, I already fiddled with the laser diode's current, tracking, and focus but this didn't help for long -- and the wear-out problems came back and got worse.
Anyway, 1988-2006 is a fairly nice period. A pickup is, depending on your machine and from who you buy, an item costing between $20 and $120.
With modern equipment, especially those integrated-into-anything CD players you will hardly achieve that as they are specifically designed to wear out (i.e. the laser diode is always powered on, not only when you actually play the CD, current set just a tad to high, etc.). Sometimes you can just install your favorite OEM drive as a replacement, sometimes you won't even get laser pick-ups for sensible prices.
Bottom line: CD players wear out, too. Especially the cheap ones.
Well, with DVD and CD players, many employ standard rom drives, even my 5 disc carousel dvd player just uses a half open rom drive with a 40 pin connector. These are $20.00 when they finally wear out. But based on my experence the lifespan of a given cd player, even a cheap one, is years. Not true of a stylus.
I have some vinyl. I have more CDs. I have thus far bought 1 cartridge/stylus, two styli, and two belts before switching to another unit which is a direct drive over the past 7 years. That's $30, $40, $40, and a cheep 2nd hand unit at $10. That's $120.
In the past 7 years, I can't say I have bought a "cd" player as I have a JVC unit that works from 1995, but tend to use my DVD player or CD-rom drive to play CDs.
The real bottom line is the cost of ownership of a turntable is higher.
Regarding (5), Btw, also the CD is a rather delicate media. Just scratch it on the wrong side. Or bend it a bit, so that improperly fabricated ones start to intake some air and let the reflector rot away. Or just scratch it on the bottom side and hear your CD player jump or hang just like a record would do. The only pro here is, that I eventually be able to repair such a damaged CD, something which would be rather hard with a record.
While this is true, you don't wear out a CD by using it.
(4) is a moot point. Just attach a RIAA preamp, if your amplifier doesn't support records.
Yes, one extra thing to buy. A pre-amp is a difficult thing to find, but not impossible.
And concerning (3), you can also introduce hum with *any* sort of audio equipment once you manage to get ground loops. They may come from your PC, your mixer, heck, even from a CD player which is powered from an outlet which belongs to a circuit different from the one you power the amp with.
The magnetic cartridge is amazing for picking up any form of electrical interference. This would include the hum of the motor, the 60 cycle hum of electricity, fluorescent lights, the sparking of gas stoves, neon signs, you name it. "Bottom line" electrical noice is more sevier on a turn table.
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Again, the issues I described can for the most part be overcome. And vinyl is a perfectly find standard for music. If you accept the fact it requires a tad more work to isolate noise picked up by the magnetic cartridge, extra provisions for grounding, easy to replace parts who's cost tends to start at $20 each, and each use does create wear and tear, and believe it to be a reasonable investment, great.
I do like vinyl, but being objective it requires more work and more money.
Are you saying that because it is not economically feasible for humans to farm bees that the bees are abandoning hives and dying? If only all our crops and livestock were this clever, our farmers would be in much better shape.
I am saying that looking into the economic feasibility of bee farms would make sence when exploring issues a lack of adquate bee supply. You have to take into account, this is America, where much of the "bread basket" was bought to you by the land reclamation product, where man not nature decided where to put the water. Come to think about it, the "western honey bee" isn't even native to north america.
if local honey is more expensive then that indicates there is demand from people who specifically want local honey, this could be a good thing for the local honey farmers depending on how much of that demand thier is.
in the 1980s, there was a manufacturer of bicycles called "Ross" out of Allentown, PA. The problem with bicycles in the early 80s was they were much cheaper to produce in China than in the states. The price of a "Ross" was much higher than early generation kids mountain bikes sub $200 were such crap I broke three or four before actually going to a real bike shop and spending more for a "Ross", which if I recall correctly was about $350 for a traditional lightweight 10 speed.
It wasn't a good thing for Ross the fact that their products cost more than cheaper imports. People didn't buy them, they would rather buy a cheaper produced in china Schwinn. They went bankrupt in 1989 according to wiki.
It would not be a good thing if income produced from being a bee keeper was lower than other fields such as fast food.
There are tracks on that album which appear nowhere else. So I keep my turntable.
My only complants about turn-tables and vinyl
1) gotta replace the stylus from time to time. This is a $20 item 2) If not a dirct drive, you gotta replace the belts. You can get away with boiling the belt once or twice to shrink it. This is a $20.00 item. 3) You gotta pay attention to important things like ground straps so you don't pick up that 60 cycle hum on your cartridge. 4) Since most units don't offer line level outs, you need a pre-amp if your amp does not support turn tables. 5) Vinyl is rather fragile and scraches easily. 6) It's not portable. I do remember as a child I had a fisher price style turn table that took D cells, but it wrecked vinyl.
Aside from these complaints, most of which can be resolved, vinyl is great. Well worth investing the dollars to convert to CD so you don't have to spend $20 and $20 over and over again.
It's hard for me to understand why anyone would actually shell out the ridiculously high sticker price for this thing considering that you can have a really excellent 103" front projection apparatus for no more than $20,000, and if you shop right or are willing to forego 1080p you can do it for under $10,000.
Well, let me see. I remember when I was a kid there was a loud resturant called "Pizza and Pipes" which not only offered a huge Wurlitzer Theatre pipe organ for entertainment, but a smallish movie screen. Given the resturant was the size to offer a theater sized pipe organ, there was enough room for a projector without the issue of heads getting in the way. It wasn't practical for that enviroment given the contrast was poor to say the least, and simply isn't practical for many envroments. A 40 inch or higher plasma TV would be much more practical. You can see them in the daytime.
HDTV data only goes up to 1920x1080. Any more pixels than that and you're not adding anything to the picture quality, just duplicating or averaging existing data. A screen this large is simply overkill. Heck, you can get the same visual effect by sitting closer to your 40-inch screen.
I use a 20 inch screen for personal viewing. Heck 19 inch TVs was the standard for years, even when it became tacky to have a working TV ontop of the nonworking console.
Regardless something like this is probally not for personal viewing. The best application would be for presentations and a largish home theater. As much as i'm not a sports fan, this would be perfect for a sports bar.
I have been using Windows 2000 for years now and have found it to be the best and most stable Windows OS so far.
I too was happy with XP, until such time as there came alone one adobe application which "needed" xp. The next version resolved this resultion by requiring an intel processor.
I must admit I liked the game support in XP. I could actually run redneck rampage somewhat, a game when released was too much for my lame machine.
The problem is joe user, who firmly believes vista is the way things are going, and don't feel they are savvy enough to fall back to xp and upgrade if need be.
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Why should a company not be allowed to discontinue a product?
In the case of software...
It's software... a product which can be archived and copied at will. Often sold with hardware, the hardware does not function without it. Sure you can "migrate" to a new system but one shouldn't be forced to esp when the current information system WORKS.
I "should" be able to buy a copy of Atari Dos in the unlikely event my information system is based on old Ataries. I should be able to buy a copy of Lotus 1-2-3 v3.0 or dBase, if for nothing else to read old data for migration to newer systems. Even worse is Works, old verions are hard to find and office tends to not support Works at all. You pretty much have to export works data into something other than works for it to be useful.
And if no one wants to sell it to me, I SHOULD be able to contact the library of congress, and get a damned copy.
Thanks for all the info. I'm floored by the high cost per page by the inexpensive lasers (3-5 cents/page) and I think even adding in the color for the 4000, I'm still doing about as well at worst. This is the first ink jet that I've thought was great, but it's also the first time I've been buying reams every few months--the thing sees almost no inactivity of lengths of three days and probably one week only once a year. If I were the kind of person for whom a 2000 page toner cartridge took 2-3 years to use, I'd probably be much happier with a laser. All that said, I do miss waterproof.
Yes, many lasers are in excess of 3c/page, but that usually covers most maintance items. Lack of use doesn't change that figure.
With a printer like the canon, you do have to take into account the cost of the head, which based on my estimates, 10 cartridge changes is end of life. I've heard of more, I have experenced more, but 10 seems to be the life estimate. I base this on canon's numbers in the ip4000 service manual. Mechanicaly they rate the printer for 18,000 pages. Heads are sub $80, though I have seen them for $50. But $80 is MSRP. It's also equal to the value of the printer, on sale, with ink.
When you take my head estimate, which bumps up the price about $2.00/cart assuming a well rounded user. That bumps one up to about 2.9c/page, which again isn't all that bad. I'd guess an additional $60/year for color ink if you don't use it. Ths is assuming $11/tank each 9 months.
The head is a warranty item, so we don't have to include that until 1 year of use, but as it's roughly equal to the value of the printer, we can safely take on the in cost to the cost per page. Canon gives those out most flippently.
So the ip4000 "BAD" isn't all that bad in the big scheme of things.
Canon's page estimate for the ip4000 printer and head.
Big black, 7200p using 1500 characters/page
Color a4 5400 pages 7.5% page yield
Color a4 300 boarderless photo
Color 4x6 photo 3600p
Color postcard 1500p
Based on my exprence, these figures are most conservative. Regular use seems to extend head life.
I'm quite embarased by this, but it's actually an PIXMA IP 4000. I realized this when you said there is no photo black (which I do have). In fact, I just replaced it for the first time, so that's in the mix on the duplex too (I've printed maybe 3 photos). I was wondering why I was going through so much colored ink when I print in color almost never. Now I'm going to have to observe thing thing anew to calculate my cost per page. Thanks for all the info!
.66g of "color" ink are used if you start printing and you have not used the printer for 120 - 336 hours. I would "guess" that means 90 cleanings or 9 months assuming .66g is divided among the 4 "color" tanks. My guess is consistent with 2nd hand info.
Ah, I don't have direct experence with the ip4000, only the mp760 which is basicly an all in one ip4000.
I can't say I have noticed color use in duplex mode. As I do photos, I can only go by 2nd hand experence and say that other users of similar models noticed color use inspite of being text only users at a rate of aprox 1 set of small tanks every 6 to 12 months.
The printer does use cleaning cycles, which are based on a timer. If you don't use the printer for a set period of time, or use only big black or only color (where small black is a "color"), it does a cleaning cycle where the volume used depends on the length of time it was used.
I lack numbers on the ip4000, but I know on the ip5200
The largest timmer cycle is 90 days. where 1.95g big black and 1.06g "color" are spent, the same as a deep cleaning. Again this info is for the ip5200, and might be different on the ip4000.
There are printers which are not so wasteful, but this isn't horrible.
It gets a tad confusing when you start talking their pro and wide models, whether they are using their own heads and inks or that from xaar, but commercial are in another class than the home inkjets.
Do you know about non-oem ink that is water proof? 1) Flipping the pages by hand and either by printing odds and evens, or by using duplex on the OS side of things, i.e. not selecting duplex in the canon driver, will use the big black. You might not like it as it will tend to bleed somewhat to the back side of the page.
2) Yes, dye is mixed with the pigmented black. OEM dye is more spendy, and more so on the ip3000 since it doesn't have an extra black. Get a good loop and see for your self, or use a flatbed scanner. There are good reasons canon does it this way. It solves the problem of bleed through, dry time is faster, and your yield is extended so that there is less of a chance a full tank will run out during a given job. If you are happy with the results, great.
water proof) I wouldn't say water proof. I do have direct experence with image specalists bulk ink from www.inksupply.com. It is pigment based. I'm sure formulabs ink big black is also pigment based. I have noticed that I prefer the OEM black in some cases on some papers, but on your average non-coated paper I can't tell the difference, and image specalist's solution I would use on an envelope.
Also, you can tweek the printer's destination setting and use the new cli-8 dye ink on the ip3000. It'll be the pixus ip3100. I prefer the new ink in terms of rendering of skintones. This I have tested on the mp760, but one sort of has to trick the printer to be in Japanese mode without swiching over to the japanese language on screen and require the japanese driver.
There are good quality $70 printers, there are also some lame ones.
But assuming something like an HP businessjet 2300, one of more cost effective printers I'm aware of. Even this is about $35/oz for color, about $15/oz for black. Bulk ink for this printer runs about $2.00/ounce for black, about $1.50 for color. Even for this printer the cost saving on bulk ink is about 90% assuming color and black are consumed at equal rates. So, 4 OEM cartridges for $135.96 vs the bulk ink which will run $13.57. This is a $500 printer, so if the printer explodes after the 4th refill, you have lost no money. But it just so happens that replacement heads are equal to the cost of OEM cartridges. If you have to replace the head every other refill, the savings is still close to 50%.
Expect to save about 80-90% using bulk ink, or about 50% on prefilled tanks depending on model. My concern with third party ink is that, if I wanted to top of my HP cartridges with it, will it mess up the mechanisms in the print cartridge? Will that cause further damage to the printer itself? And as the parent mentioned, the first few pages might be fine, but what about later on? Will the ink clean the print heads well enough to keep them from clogging (incidentally, this has a larger impact on printers with print heads that are built in to the printer rather than the cartridges)? The choice is really yours. In an office enviroment where downtime would cost you more than the savings, I wouldn't bother. Home I would. My direct experence is with canon and epson using ink from inksupply.com which is an offical distrubter of Image Specalists ink. I can claim 6oz of ink on an ip3000 without an issue, but the issue was with the black and this was after I had already replaced the printer. Lack of use on a mp760 with OEM ink resulted in the same issue, black pigment banding.
Epsons tend to use Micropiezo, rather than thermal heads. Even though they are carefully alligned and not typicaly end user replaceable, those I would trust to pass just about anything through them. I consider them to be higher maintance than thermals, but the color rendering is superb. But epsons do use pumps for cleaning, rather than thermals that just boil.
But cleaning the heads, basicly dye ink is similar to blue windex. For a printer you plan to keep in service a long time you might consider cleaning cartridges, whether OEM or aftermarket.
I am willing to believe using other media will affect the printhead life. Could improve or reduce it. But given the cost of OEM ink vs the cost of printers and the cost of aftermarket solutions, even on $500 desktop printers, you save alot of money before there ever is an issue.
The only issue I have with bulk ink dye, or the pre-filled options on the market, is with print life. It's not like the major bulk ink manufacturers (Formulabs/sensient, Image Specalists, OCP, Lyson, and others) can't make an ink which will be as lightfast or as gasfast as OEMs. They just don't as the market. Bulk ink at under $1.00/ounce ($2.00/ounce at the consumer level).
Keep in mind that the cartridges which come with new inkjets are almost always low capacity, about 1/3 to 1/4 the amount of ink that's in the manufacturers retail cartridges.
I know many printers offer a low yield cartridge, but not all of them. You can usually tell if you shop and note if the store offers a standard and a high yield cartridge.
Epson for example, the models i've used don't come with low yield cartridges, it just seems like it because the priming cycle does waste a tad of ink. But if you buy a printer from the epson referb store, you can often buy it with ink for less than the ink. Good if you like the model, and you get a free spare.
The last canon models i've looked at, the ip5200/ip4300 for example, come with standard yield cartridges.
If there was a cheap laser that was small and had duplex, I'd consider it. But last time I had one I found that the current it drew when it started was outrageous (my monitor and all my CFL's dimmed) and that it's sleep current was significantly higher than my ink jet. So, I returned it. I have direct experence with the canon ip3000, which I upgraded to an ip5200 since as part of learning japanese I took it upon my self to label my anime discs with furigana {ruby text/pronunciation above}, and there was anotable difference between the two models. For text the ip3000 is a perfectly fine machine. I'd have to check the specs but i'm pretty sure text has not improved in at least 10 years on the canon.
At 5% yield the black cartridge should last about 500 pages. at 1500 characters per page the yield should be about 740 pages. Duplex mode mixes color with the big black, so your page yield would be extended. But the color tanks are higher per page than others, and as we are talking about a model without a dye black, it does in all fairness use cyan/magenta/yellow in duplex for black text. I believe the issue is the canon's big black tends to bleed cross the page, and going with a mix of dye and pigment increases the dry time, and decreases the bleed through.
Manual duplex is more cost effective, esp on the ip3000. It's also more time effective as putting the paper back in the printer the last page printed is the most dry, rather than having to wait moments for a single sheet to dry before processed and flipped.
Also, this and other canon models, doesn't print object oriented, it's document oriented. As in it will use the big black for plain paper, mix colors to make black for other types. You can easily observe this by printing on matte paper something with much black and note how soggy it is when you select plain paper or matte paper.
Whether you are getting ripped off or not is a relative matter. Going with OEM ink on this model, standard simplex printing, is about 2.5c/page in the US typicaly speaking not including the head which does eventually clog or burn out. Color is used in the cleaning cycles, not as much as an Epson which uses a pump attached to the pladen to suck clean, but more so than head on the cartridge based HP models. It is IMHO a good general purpose printer.
Damn straight. A Fillet-o-Fish needs cheese. I love 'em, but they are the worst thing for you on McDonald's menu. 700+ Calories for a tiny sandwich, wow.
I read it as being 380 Calories.
Perhaps it's 700+ with a side of fries.
As much as I like Jack-in-the-Box, they are a high calorie option.
Ultimate Cheeseburger 1010 calories
Bacon Ultimate Cheeseburger 1090 calories
Bacon 'n' Cheese Ciabatta Burger 1120 calories
Where Burker King seems to be king at 1230 calories for their tripple whopper.
i'm not sure about dairy queen, which I seem to remember had some tasty choices if nothing else was open.
I could be mistaken on that front, if so it's a natural assumption the fact that most dual core systems ship with Media Center, Tablet, Pro, or Vista of various flavors.
However, if you are going to "try" to get the OEM to downgrade that PC to XP, odds are they will use media center.
Like I am depriving McDonald's of MY money when I make my own burger.
Gawd I hope so.
Not that i'm really a burger person, I prefer filet-o-fish my self. And McDonalds did have a good idea about the 1/2 slice of basic cheese. It really does provide a good balance of textures and flavors.
But I highly doubt the 1/2 slice of cheese is McDonnalds "Intelectual Property".
What kind of IDIOT would you have to be to pay for a "genuine" Vista in China when you can buy a "non-genuine" one for a dollar?!
This may be the point. No IDIOT would pay for Vista, as a result pirated editions are being advertised for $1.00 where xp would probally cost you more.
I don't even know one Vista user here in the States. This OS has been a real flop for Microsoft. Notice they don't give stats for actual activated copies of Vista or customer sales--they only give the numbers of OEM licenses sold. They did the same with XP to inflate the numbers.
I know ONE vista user, and she just bought a new laptop, with vista onboard.
The only big issue thus far, other than moving menus changing age old commands like search and replace with search and mark IIRC, is the lack of all in one printer drivers. For example the hp 3055 will print, but the software suite won't install.
She presently considers downgrading to XP to be a little extreme, as it's her belief that the world is going vista and she will be SOL with XP. You or I could just plop in the system restore discs, but this is a complaint from an average user. Also, as we are talking dual core CPUs, one has to get XP-pro or tablet/mediacenter edition. Costs too damned much, or too damned hard to find.
Aside from that, there are people who like the new flashy graphics. Even I somewhat like the new alt-tab program switcher where there is a carousel of screens which actually display what each window is presently displaying. But due to CPU use I wouldn't use it.
If vinyl turntables (with USB, natch) used a laser pickup instead of a mechanical stylus, vinyl would be a lot more popular
Only if you have black vinyl, colored vinyl I've "heard" has issues with laser pickups.
If there's a sign on the door that says "OPEN", then yes.If there's a sign on the door that says "OPEN", then yes.If there's a sign on the door that says "OPEN", then yes.
Well, there are a ton of wifi routers "open" for business. That's the problem. Even worse is "WindowsXP" on machines with wifi cards such as the ever popular cheepo dell laptop, all of which tend to latch onto the first WiFi network they encounter, without you knowing about it.
And come to think about it, not every business I visit has an open sign, or bothers to turn it on. Most notable in my experence are supermarkets, where the lights are on but nobody's home and the only indication of their hours are printed on a large card that can only be read easily in the daylight.
Come to think about it, I never know the hours of my local coffee shop, and have wondered in just as they were "closing" shop. This was not a criminal act, but a legit person seeking to purchace goods or service.
Needledoctor disagrees with you. Some of these styluses have ruby or diamond tips, and will run you a few thousand bucks a piece!
I rather thought diamond styli were the norm. Industrial diamonds don't have the same value has jeweler diamonds. Hell, even diamond chips are dirt cheap.
I have heard of ruby styli, but I can't say i've met one in decades. The last time I saw one was for a turntable with 78rpm and 16rpm speeds.
A base stylus will run you $20. You can spend more if you like. I can hear the difference among different turntables so I imagine there is a good reason to spend more.
Regarding (1) and (2), you gotta replace the pickup of your CD player as well, although, admittedly, on properly designed players it takes a tad longer. Last year I had to perform this stunt on my 1988 Sony CDP470; before, I already fiddled with the laser diode's current, tracking, and focus but this didn't help for long -- and the wear-out problems came back and got worse.
Anyway, 1988-2006 is a fairly nice period. A pickup is, depending on your machine and from who you buy, an item costing between $20 and $120.
With modern equipment, especially those integrated-into-anything CD players you will hardly achieve that as they are specifically designed to wear out (i.e. the laser diode is always powered on, not only when you actually play the CD, current set just a tad to high, etc.). Sometimes you can just install your favorite OEM drive as a replacement, sometimes you won't even get laser pick-ups for sensible prices.
Bottom line: CD players wear out, too. Especially the cheap ones.
Well, with DVD and CD players, many employ standard rom drives, even my 5 disc carousel dvd player just uses a half open rom drive with a 40 pin connector. These are $20.00 when they finally wear out. But based on my experence the lifespan of a given cd player, even a cheap one, is years. Not true of a stylus.
I have some vinyl. I have more CDs. I have thus far bought 1 cartridge/stylus, two styli, and two belts before switching to another unit which is a direct drive over the past 7 years. That's $30, $40, $40, and a cheep 2nd hand unit at $10. That's $120.
In the past 7 years, I can't say I have bought a "cd" player as I have a JVC unit that works from 1995, but tend to use my DVD player or CD-rom drive to play CDs.
The real bottom line is the cost of ownership of a turntable is higher.
Regarding (5), Btw, also the CD is a rather delicate media. Just scratch it on the wrong side. Or bend it a bit, so that improperly fabricated ones start to intake some air and let the reflector rot away. Or just scratch it on the bottom side and hear your CD player jump or hang just like a record would do. The only pro here is, that I eventually be able to repair such a damaged CD, something which would be rather hard with a record.
While this is true, you don't wear out a CD by using it.
(4) is a moot point. Just attach a RIAA preamp, if your amplifier doesn't support records.
Yes, one extra thing to buy. A pre-amp is a difficult thing to find, but not impossible.
And concerning (3), you can also introduce hum with *any* sort of audio equipment once you manage to get ground loops. They may come from your PC, your mixer, heck, even from a CD player which is powered from an outlet which belongs to a circuit different from the one you power the amp with.
The magnetic cartridge is amazing for picking up any form of electrical interference. This would include the hum of the motor, the 60 cycle hum of electricity, fluorescent lights, the sparking of gas stoves, neon signs, you name it. "Bottom line" electrical noice is more sevier on a turn table.
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Again, the issues I described can for the most part be overcome. And vinyl is a perfectly find standard for music. If you accept the fact it requires a tad more work to isolate noise picked up by the magnetic cartridge, extra provisions for grounding, easy to replace parts who's cost tends to start at $20 each, and each use does create wear and tear, and believe it to be a reasonable investment, great.
I do like vinyl, but being objective it requires more work and more money.
Are you saying that because it is not economically feasible for humans to farm bees that the bees are abandoning hives and dying?
If only all our crops and livestock were this clever, our farmers would be in much better shape.
I am saying that looking into the economic feasibility of bee farms would make sence when exploring issues a lack of adquate bee supply. You have to take into account, this is America, where much of the "bread basket" was bought to you by the land reclamation product, where man not nature decided where to put the water. Come to think about it, the "western honey bee" isn't even native to north america.
if local honey is more expensive then that indicates there is demand from people who specifically want local honey, this could be a good thing for the local honey farmers depending on how much of that demand thier is.
in the 1980s, there was a manufacturer of bicycles called "Ross" out of Allentown, PA. The problem with bicycles in the early 80s was they were much cheaper to produce in China than in the states. The price of a "Ross" was much higher than early generation kids mountain bikes sub $200 were such crap I broke three or four before actually going to a real bike shop and spending more for a "Ross", which if I recall correctly was about $350 for a traditional lightweight 10 speed.
It wasn't a good thing for Ross the fact that their products cost more than cheaper imports. People didn't buy them, they would rather buy a cheaper produced in china Schwinn. They went bankrupt in 1989 according to wiki.
It would not be a good thing if income produced from being a bee keeper was lower than other fields such as fast food.
There are tracks on that album which appear nowhere else. So I keep my turntable.
My only complants about turn-tables and vinyl
1) gotta replace the stylus from time to time. This is a $20 item
2) If not a dirct drive, you gotta replace the belts. You can get away with boiling the belt once or twice to shrink it. This is a $20.00 item.
3) You gotta pay attention to important things like ground straps so you don't pick up that 60 cycle hum on your cartridge.
4) Since most units don't offer line level outs, you need a pre-amp if your amp does not support turn tables.
5) Vinyl is rather fragile and scraches easily.
6) It's not portable. I do remember as a child I had a fisher price style turn table that took D cells, but it wrecked vinyl.
Aside from these complaints, most of which can be resolved, vinyl is great. Well worth investing the dollars to convert to CD so you don't have to spend $20 and $20 over and over again.
It's hard for me to understand why anyone would actually shell out the ridiculously high sticker price for this thing considering that you can have a really excellent 103" front projection apparatus for no more than $20,000, and if you shop right or are willing to forego 1080p you can do it for under $10,000.
Well, let me see. I remember when I was a kid there was a loud resturant called "Pizza and Pipes" which not only offered a huge Wurlitzer Theatre pipe organ for entertainment, but a smallish movie screen. Given the resturant was the size to offer a theater sized pipe organ, there was enough room for a projector without the issue of heads getting in the way. It wasn't practical for that enviroment given the contrast was poor to say the least, and simply isn't practical for many envroments. A 40 inch or higher plasma TV would be much more practical. You can see them in the daytime.
HDTV data only goes up to 1920x1080. Any more pixels than that and you're not adding anything to the picture quality, just duplicating or averaging existing data. A screen this large is simply overkill. Heck, you can get the same visual effect by sitting closer to your 40-inch screen.
I use a 20 inch screen for personal viewing. Heck 19 inch TVs was the standard for years, even when it became tacky to have a working TV ontop of the nonworking console.
Regardless something like this is probally not for personal viewing. The best application would be for presentations and a largish home theater. As much as i'm not a sports fan, this would be perfect for a sports bar.
I have been using Windows 2000 for years now and have found it to be the best and most stable Windows OS so far.
I too was happy with XP, until such time as there came alone one adobe application which "needed" xp. The next version resolved this resultion by requiring an intel processor.
I must admit I liked the game support in XP. I could actually run redneck rampage somewhat, a game when released was too much for my lame machine.
The problem is joe user, who firmly believes vista is the way things are going, and don't feel they are savvy enough to fall back to xp and upgrade if need be.