He also finds it ironic, that there are disabled parks near supermarkets and department stores, fundamentally the kinds of stores where you'll be covering quite a distance moving around a large complex, there's not really much effort saved by having a disabled park close to the door.
Many such stores have scooters once you get inside. However, distance to the building is only one factor. People in wheelchairs, people bent over walkers, and people moving slowly tend to be more difficult to spot and are more likely to be hit by someone backing out of a spot. Minimizing the number of cars they have to pass minimizes the chances of them getting hit. These same people (well, except the wheelchair-bound) are also more likely to fall and injure themselves on slippery pavement, so a shorter distance is safer there too. Some people's illnesses may make them more sensitive to heat and cold, so it's best to get them into the climate controlled environment as quickly as possible. I'm sure there are other reasons, too.
One of the interesting points of the episode, and something I've noticed as will others, is that handicapped parking spots are almost always empty. Empty parking spots all over the world that most people aren't allowed to use, which of course clutters up the rest of the parking lot. Just something to think about.
That's not interesting. Not even the slightest bit. So we over-assign handicapped spots to try and make sure that when several truly handicapped people are at the store, they don't have to park at the back of the lot because we tried to cut the number of spots close so that some non-handicapped lard-asses didn't have to walk an extra 25 feet. Big deal.
Ok, no problem then...water under the bridge. Just seems like I've wasted a lot of time on forums lately getting trolled when trying to offer genuine help. I thought this discussion had taken a turn for the worse. Glad that's not the case.
Or should lack of direct deposit be a reason to turn down a job offer?
WTF? I thought from your previous few posts that you were merely asking questions about how to go about it, and I was just giving you ideas how to make a bit more money. Now with this last question (which has no basis in anything I said) I think you've been trolling me all along.
The salary is for a "Graduate Assistant to Stephen Hawking".
Most Graduate Assistants don't make 38k...
You wouldn't know this, since neither TFA nor TFS bothered to link to the actual post, but most Graduate assistants also don't have to "Expect to spend around 3 months per year abroad", or all the other things on this page. You not only have to maintain his gear, but also have to be his travel agent, his press agent, his web designer, and his auto mechanic.
I assume you are talking about the Total Checking? It says there's no fee if you have a $500+ direct deposit each month. Do you have a job that can direct deposit your paycheck? If so, there you go. Otherwise, it's your call. If you are satisfied with Chase and don't mind keeping that much on hand (consider it your quick access emergency cash like I do) then that's fine. Or see what else is available. Remember to take into consideration all the things that are important to you (such as locations of no-fee ATMs, bill pay, etc).
He said scrolling on his Transformer isn't as smooth as the iPad. The Transform and Transformer Prime are 2 different products. The Prime is a quad code, but not the older Transformer model.
I've considered switching to an Internet bank. But I occasionally receive cash and checks from friends and relatives. If I switch from a local bank to an Internet bank, how will I deposit those? The local banks' ATMs don't take deposits for other banks. Or did you mean keep a local bank account just for ATM deposits and keep a couple thousand in the account at the local bank to avoid a monthly service fee?
Yep, that's exactly how you do it. Essentially, your local bank serves as your ATM (with the qualification that there is a small delay in waiting for the ACH transfer to complete). You deposit into your local bank, then go online and initiate the transfer. To do the reverse, you initiate the transfer, wait 1-3 days (depending on the bank) for the transfer to complete, then go take out your money at the local bank.
Also, you probably don't need to keep "a couple thousand" in the local bank. Many banks (especially credit unions) have very low balances requirement (mine is $5 for a savings account, $300 for a checking account). That said, I still try keep about $1000-$1500 in there anyway. That way, just in case something comes up and I need immediate access to the money (can't wait for the ACH to go through) I can get it from there. I can't imagine needing more than that on such short notice. I rarely have use for it as is, so I'm throwing away a tiny bit of potential interest, but it's a small price just to have a little emergency money easily available.
I have no illusions that the cost isn't eventually figured right back into the prices I pay. But what alternative do I have? Sure, if we could get NEARLY EVERYBODY to stop using credit cards, then perhaps we could start getting lower prices at the store to make paying cash/debit worthwhile (yeah, I know...laugh at the notion that the retailers wouldn't just gladly pocket the extra money). But the case is essentially the old prisoners dilemma taken to an enormous scale. If everyone (or even nearly everyone) made the optimal decision, then everyone would be better off. But the way things stand, it's in my best interest to get what I can, since there's pretty much no chance of things changing even if I take a stand.
And the moment you make any sort of mistake or have a charge you can't pay off in full (regardless of your level of discipline, this will probably happen eventually) the credit card company will earn back every cent you've made from your cash back or rewards. In fact, they'll likely earn it back and many times more.
Really? I said I make hundreds of dollars per year doing this. I've been using credit cards like this for close to a decade. The money I've made from cash back is measured in the thousands. If I do happen to make a mistake, worst case is I'm paying a late fee (usually $25, I've seen as high as $39...but lets say $50 to be really conservative). If I don't catch it right away, I'll be paying interest too. Even with a terrible rate of 29% (all my cards are about half that or less) that comes out to $25 per thousand per month. So if something terrible happens, like I get hospitalized for 6 months and no bill ever gets paid, and I somehow manage to continue to accrue $2000 per month in charges (not sure how that would happen with me in the hospital unable to spend), were talking about maybe $1000 in interest and another $300 in fees.
That is a pretty drastic scenario, but even in that case I'm STILL making a profit in excess of $1000. At this point, it's nearly impossible for me to lose just based on the cash back alone. And that's not even counting all of the other money I've made off of credit cards...$100 to $600 per card in signup bonuses, many thousands made by taking money out on 0% balance transfers and investing in savings accounts until the 0% ends (unfortunately, those opportunities have mostly dried up since 2008), the occasional "you haven't used this card in a while...make a purchase by DATE and get a $15 statement credit", the "cash this check for $10-$20 and signup for a trial of our credit protector service" which you then promptly cancel and keep your $10-$20 (haven't seen those offers in serveral years), and probably more things I can't think of at the moment.
and put the rest of the money in savings account to earn interest until the 12 months is up.
Which doesn't do much when local banks are paying 0.01% (that's one hundredth of one percent) APY and Internet banks have no ATMs nearby to take your deposit.
Thats why nearly all internet banks have free ACH transfers to other accounts. It's never been a hindrance to me in the 8 or so years I've been using online banks for the much better interest rates.
They can sort out how to handle the expense of processing all of those checks, plus cancelling (or reversing, even better) the automatic payment for that cycle, deal with the trivial credit balances on the account, and generally be miserable.
Lol...you think having a credit balance is going to be some inconvenience that they are going to have to figure out how to deal with? Their system is already designed to handle this...it will just credit you on your next statement(s) and you will be billed less in the future. Even if you send them another check when your bill is already 100% paid due to credit balances, they will just do the same thing. They'll be more than happy to hold onto you money for you.
OK, in my last post, I shouldn't have said "finally", because I just thought of another benefit with credit cards that I use to make money. I get a credit card with 12 months of 0% on purchases, use it to make purchases, make minimum payments, and put the rest of the money in savings account to earn interest until the 12 months is up. By their very nature, debit cards can't do this for you.
You get convenience with banking too. I only watch over my bank account. I use visa/mastercard debit card too, so it is instantly removed from my account. Living on credit is stupid.
Wrong. You are apparently too stupid to see the advantage of credit cards, even when someone directly points it out to you. Using credit card cash back, I make hundreds of dollars a year, and I don't pay 1 cent of interest or fees to the credit card companies. Most debit cards offer no cashback. There are a handful that offer up to 1% cash back, but none that offer more, wherase credit card companies often offer more. There are some that offer 2% on everything, and some up to 5% on various items. And occasionally there are even offers >5% .
Additionally, if someone gets my visa card number and makes some fraudulent purchases, I simply dispute the charge, and since my credit limit is about 10 times what I actually use, my credit limit is slightly reduced but I never notice the difference. Meanwhile, my mortgage and car payments (deducted directly from my bank account) is completely unaffected. But for you, if someone gets your debit number, you certainly can disputed it, but your money will be missing for your account for up to 10 days. Meanwhile, you may incur overdraft fees, and your mortgage/car/other payments may bounce incurring fees. You may be able to get these fees reversed, but it's not going to be a painless process. You are going to have to spend time making calls/writing letters, sending documentation, etc. You can eliminate some of the overdraft fees by leaving a large buffer of cash in your checking account, but I generally consider that dumb since most checking accounts earn no interest, and the few that do only give you a tiny fraction of what you can get in a savings account.
Finally, credit cards offer many additional benefits like extended warranties, replacement if items are lost/stolen. I know of no debit cards that offer these types of benefits.
every T-Mobile subscriber I know all moved to other carriers when they heard the initial announcement.
Now that's just stupid. Why jump just because they COULD be bought? It's not like AT&T can prevent them from leaving once they take over, and porting a number takes about 24-48 hours these days.
To be pedantic in this case you are in debt. It's minor debt I'm sure but for that one month you're in debt to the credit card company. You have a product, they paid the money, you owe them the money.
I agree with the simplicity of it, but it's false to say you can get a credit history without going into debt 1 cent, because by it's very nature a credit history is a history of how well you repay your debt, however small it may be.
I've already addressed this issue to multiple other responses, about the difference between "a debt" and "in debt". The phrase "in debt" is commonly understood (except on slashdot, apparently) to mean you have debts beyond your current ability to pay. Ask 100 people the following: if a millionaire lost his wallet and had to borrow $20 for a cab ride home, would you say he's "in debt". I'd bet 99 people would say "no" (unless those 100 people are all on slashdot).
That aside, no it's NOT false to say you can get a credit history without going into debt. Even if you want to be the brainless pedant who doesn't understand the colloquial meaning of "in debt", it's STILL possible to get a great credit history without 1 cent of debt. Credit reports do no track your balance over time and use that in calculating your credit score. They primarily use a combination of your historical acquisition of credit (what lines of credit do you have and how long have you had them, and what inquiries have you had lately suggesting your are trying to acquire more credit), your history of NOT paying your debts (late payments, defaults, settlements, etc), and your current utilization (outstanding debt compared to your available credit lines).
Anyone else want to make these exact same comments again so I can answer them one more time?
Each and every time that you use a credit card you are going into debt.
Please try to get an understanding of the common use meaning of "a debt" vs "in debt". If you have something you need to pay, that is "a debt". When you have "a debt" that is large enough that you are currently unable to pay it, you are "in debt". If someone with a million dollars in his bank account lost his wallet and had to borrow $20 to take a cab home, he definitely has "a debt" (of $20 to whomever he borrowed from) but nobody in their right mind (except perhaps some clueless people on slashdot) would consider him to be "in debt". Being "in debt" is a state in which you are living beyond your means.
If you never incur a debt on your credit card, the bank will eventually cancel that line of credit and your credit score will go down. Try going 20 years without without any debt whatsoever (not even zero-interest debt)... you will end up with a credit score that is mediocre to sub-prime.
Funny, I've got 2 cards from approx 2006 and 4 or 5 from 2008 that haven't been used once since. None of them have been cancelled. Credit lines were reduced when the 2008 economic crisis hit, but that was an across the board thing. Even some of my most frequently used credit cards had their credit lines cut.
My mother has a credit card that hasn't been used in at least 10 years. It hasn't been cancelled either. In addition, she hasn't had a car loan since about 1993 or 1994, and she's never had a mortgage or personal loan in her name. If you are right, then her credit should be absolute shit. Yet when I helped her switch insurance companies last year, they pulled her credit score and she was in the high 700's (anything over 720 is considered excellent). Oops, there goes your theory.
Please don't try to educate me about how credit scores work, as it's obvious you have no clue about them yourself. I'd highly recommend, if you are serious about understanding this sort of stuff, that you go spend some time on the fatwallet finance forums. I've learned a TON from these people over the last 8-9 years. The people there really understand this stuff. These are the sorts of people that work together and systematically test the credit scoring systems to determine precisely how they work, what level of impact various actions have on your scores, how long those effects last, etc. They've figured out how to game the system, applying for 20 credit cards in one day so that you can gain hundreds of thousands of dollars in credit at one time, without lenders denying you for having to many new cards. These are the people that figured out you can "bump" your credit report...sign up for a credit monitoring service, and then pull your credit report one or more times each day, in order to overflow the statically sized "inquiry" queue, knocking out the "hard pulls" (which are when you apply for new credit...the ones that actually affect your credit score) and replacing them with "soft pulls" (inquiries that don't affect your credit score, which includes things like using a credit monitoring service).
I wish. At least then I'd probably be posting this from my yacht or something.
Seriously, though...once everything crashed, savings interest rates when to shit, credit company's went into panic mode and cut credit lines drastically (amex was the worst, cutting my credit limit from $25K to $500 in one swoop), and that free money gravy train pretty much dried up.
You may have a debt, but you are not generally considered to be "going into debt" if you have the money sitting there ready to pay it off. Aside from that, my point still stands. Even having the credit available and not using at all will still help you build a great credit history.
If you have the money sitting in another account ready to repay it when it comes due, then although it is technically a debt, you are not really considered to be "in debt".
Why? What's new in this version of QT Creator? Or are you just now discovering Qt Creator? If so, yeah it's an awesome IDE, and I can certainly understand your excitement, but it's hardly new.
He also finds it ironic, that there are disabled parks near supermarkets and department stores, fundamentally the kinds of stores where you'll be covering quite a distance moving around a large complex, there's not really much effort saved by having a disabled park close to the door.
Many such stores have scooters once you get inside. However, distance to the building is only one factor. People in wheelchairs, people bent over walkers, and people moving slowly tend to be more difficult to spot and are more likely to be hit by someone backing out of a spot. Minimizing the number of cars they have to pass minimizes the chances of them getting hit. These same people (well, except the wheelchair-bound) are also more likely to fall and injure themselves on slippery pavement, so a shorter distance is safer there too. Some people's illnesses may make them more sensitive to heat and cold, so it's best to get them into the climate controlled environment as quickly as possible. I'm sure there are other reasons, too.
I'm not the AC you asked, but it seem to be human nature to not want to give in and submit to your disability.
One of the interesting points of the episode, and something I've noticed as will others, is that handicapped parking spots are almost always empty. Empty parking spots all over the world that most people aren't allowed to use, which of course clutters up the rest of the parking lot. Just something to think about.
That's not interesting. Not even the slightest bit. So we over-assign handicapped spots to try and make sure that when several truly handicapped people are at the store, they don't have to park at the back of the lot because we tried to cut the number of spots close so that some non-handicapped lard-asses didn't have to walk an extra 25 feet. Big deal.
I humbly apologize for coming off that way.
Ok, no problem then...water under the bridge. Just seems like I've wasted a lot of time on forums lately getting trolled when trying to offer genuine help. I thought this discussion had taken a turn for the worse. Glad that's not the case.
Or should lack of direct deposit be a reason to turn down a job offer?
WTF? I thought from your previous few posts that you were merely asking questions about how to go about it, and I was just giving you ideas how to make a bit more money. Now with this last question (which has no basis in anything I said) I think you've been trolling me all along.
That salary is peanuts.
The salary is for a "Graduate Assistant to Stephen Hawking".
Most Graduate Assistants don't make 38k...
You wouldn't know this, since neither TFA nor TFS bothered to link to the actual post, but most Graduate assistants also don't have to "Expect to spend around 3 months per year abroad", or all the other things on this page. You not only have to maintain his gear, but also have to be his travel agent, his press agent, his web designer, and his auto mechanic.
I assume you are talking about the Total Checking? It says there's no fee if you have a $500+ direct deposit each month. Do you have a job that can direct deposit your paycheck? If so, there you go. Otherwise, it's your call. If you are satisfied with Chase and don't mind keeping that much on hand (consider it your quick access emergency cash like I do) then that's fine. Or see what else is available. Remember to take into consideration all the things that are important to you (such as locations of no-fee ATMs, bill pay, etc).
Perhaps because a netbook doesn't have a removable touchscreen for the many times you'd like to use it without the bulk/awkwardness of a keyboard?
You Android zealots are just as douchy douchy douchebags as iOS zealots only CHEAPER.
Cheaper? He's considering a Transformer Prime. Starting price for that is the same as an iPad 2. Not sure how that qualifies as cheaper.
He said scrolling on his Transformer isn't as smooth as the iPad. The Transform and Transformer Prime are 2 different products. The Prime is a quad code, but not the older Transformer model.
I've considered switching to an Internet bank. But I occasionally receive cash and checks from friends and relatives. If I switch from a local bank to an Internet bank, how will I deposit those? The local banks' ATMs don't take deposits for other banks. Or did you mean keep a local bank account just for ATM deposits and keep a couple thousand in the account at the local bank to avoid a monthly service fee?
Yep, that's exactly how you do it. Essentially, your local bank serves as your ATM (with the qualification that there is a small delay in waiting for the ACH transfer to complete). You deposit into your local bank, then go online and initiate the transfer. To do the reverse, you initiate the transfer, wait 1-3 days (depending on the bank) for the transfer to complete, then go take out your money at the local bank.
Also, you probably don't need to keep "a couple thousand" in the local bank. Many banks (especially credit unions) have very low balances requirement (mine is $5 for a savings account, $300 for a checking account). That said, I still try keep about $1000-$1500 in there anyway. That way, just in case something comes up and I need immediate access to the money (can't wait for the ACH to go through) I can get it from there. I can't imagine needing more than that on such short notice. I rarely have use for it as is, so I'm throwing away a tiny bit of potential interest, but it's a small price just to have a little emergency money easily available.
I have no illusions that the cost isn't eventually figured right back into the prices I pay. But what alternative do I have? Sure, if we could get NEARLY EVERYBODY to stop using credit cards, then perhaps we could start getting lower prices at the store to make paying cash/debit worthwhile (yeah, I know...laugh at the notion that the retailers wouldn't just gladly pocket the extra money). But the case is essentially the old prisoners dilemma taken to an enormous scale. If everyone (or even nearly everyone) made the optimal decision, then everyone would be better off. But the way things stand, it's in my best interest to get what I can, since there's pretty much no chance of things changing even if I take a stand.
And the moment you make any sort of mistake or have a charge you can't pay off in full (regardless of your level of discipline, this will probably happen eventually) the credit card company will earn back every cent you've made from your cash back or rewards. In fact, they'll likely earn it back and many times more.
Really? I said I make hundreds of dollars per year doing this. I've been using credit cards like this for close to a decade. The money I've made from cash back is measured in the thousands. If I do happen to make a mistake, worst case is I'm paying a late fee (usually $25, I've seen as high as $39...but lets say $50 to be really conservative). If I don't catch it right away, I'll be paying interest too. Even with a terrible rate of 29% (all my cards are about half that or less) that comes out to $25 per thousand per month. So if something terrible happens, like I get hospitalized for 6 months and no bill ever gets paid, and I somehow manage to continue to accrue $2000 per month in charges (not sure how that would happen with me in the hospital unable to spend), were talking about maybe $1000 in interest and another $300 in fees.
That is a pretty drastic scenario, but even in that case I'm STILL making a profit in excess of $1000. At this point, it's nearly impossible for me to lose just based on the cash back alone. And that's not even counting all of the other money I've made off of credit cards...$100 to $600 per card in signup bonuses, many thousands made by taking money out on 0% balance transfers and investing in savings accounts until the 0% ends (unfortunately, those opportunities have mostly dried up since 2008), the occasional "you haven't used this card in a while...make a purchase by DATE and get a $15 statement credit", the "cash this check for $10-$20 and signup for a trial of our credit protector service" which you then promptly cancel and keep your $10-$20 (haven't seen those offers in serveral years), and probably more things I can't think of at the moment.
and put the rest of the money in savings account to earn interest until the 12 months is up.
Which doesn't do much when local banks are paying 0.01% (that's one hundredth of one percent) APY and Internet banks have no ATMs nearby to take your deposit.
Thats why nearly all internet banks have free ACH transfers to other accounts. It's never been a hindrance to me in the 8 or so years I've been using online banks for the much better interest rates.
They can sort out how to handle the expense of processing all of those checks, plus cancelling (or reversing, even better) the automatic payment for that cycle, deal with the trivial credit balances on the account, and generally be miserable.
Lol...you think having a credit balance is going to be some inconvenience that they are going to have to figure out how to deal with? Their system is already designed to handle this...it will just credit you on your next statement(s) and you will be billed less in the future. Even if you send them another check when your bill is already 100% paid due to credit balances, they will just do the same thing. They'll be more than happy to hold onto you money for you.
OK, in my last post, I shouldn't have said "finally", because I just thought of another benefit with credit cards that I use to make money. I get a credit card with 12 months of 0% on purchases, use it to make purchases, make minimum payments, and put the rest of the money in savings account to earn interest until the 12 months is up. By their very nature, debit cards can't do this for you.
You get convenience with banking too. I only watch over my bank account. I use visa/mastercard debit card too, so it is instantly removed from my account. Living on credit is stupid.
Wrong. You are apparently too stupid to see the advantage of credit cards, even when someone directly points it out to you. Using credit card cash back, I make hundreds of dollars a year, and I don't pay 1 cent of interest or fees to the credit card companies. Most debit cards offer no cashback. There are a handful that offer up to 1% cash back, but none that offer more, wherase credit card companies often offer more. There are some that offer 2% on everything, and some up to 5% on various items. And occasionally there are even offers >5% .
Additionally, if someone gets my visa card number and makes some fraudulent purchases, I simply dispute the charge, and since my credit limit is about 10 times what I actually use, my credit limit is slightly reduced but I never notice the difference. Meanwhile, my mortgage and car payments (deducted directly from my bank account) is completely unaffected. But for you, if someone gets your debit number, you certainly can disputed it, but your money will be missing for your account for up to 10 days. Meanwhile, you may incur overdraft fees, and your mortgage/car/other payments may bounce incurring fees. You may be able to get these fees reversed, but it's not going to be a painless process. You are going to have to spend time making calls/writing letters, sending documentation, etc. You can eliminate some of the overdraft fees by leaving a large buffer of cash in your checking account, but I generally consider that dumb since most checking accounts earn no interest, and the few that do only give you a tiny fraction of what you can get in a savings account.
Finally, credit cards offer many additional benefits like extended warranties, replacement if items are lost/stolen. I know of no debit cards that offer these types of benefits.
every T-Mobile subscriber I know all moved to other carriers when they heard the initial announcement.
Now that's just stupid. Why jump just because they COULD be bought? It's not like AT&T can prevent them from leaving once they take over, and porting a number takes about 24-48 hours these days.
To be pedantic in this case you are in debt. It's minor debt I'm sure but for that one month you're in debt to the credit card company. You have a product, they paid the money, you owe them the money.
I agree with the simplicity of it, but it's false to say you can get a credit history without going into debt 1 cent, because by it's very nature a credit history is a history of how well you repay your debt, however small it may be.
I've already addressed this issue to multiple other responses, about the difference between "a debt" and "in debt". The phrase "in debt" is commonly understood (except on slashdot, apparently) to mean you have debts beyond your current ability to pay. Ask 100 people the following: if a millionaire lost his wallet and had to borrow $20 for a cab ride home, would you say he's "in debt". I'd bet 99 people would say "no" (unless those 100 people are all on slashdot).
That aside, no it's NOT false to say you can get a credit history without going into debt. Even if you want to be the brainless pedant who doesn't understand the colloquial meaning of "in debt", it's STILL possible to get a great credit history without 1 cent of debt. Credit reports do no track your balance over time and use that in calculating your credit score. They primarily use a combination of your historical acquisition of credit (what lines of credit do you have and how long have you had them, and what inquiries have you had lately suggesting your are trying to acquire more credit), your history of NOT paying your debts (late payments, defaults, settlements, etc), and your current utilization (outstanding debt compared to your available credit lines).
Anyone else want to make these exact same comments again so I can answer them one more time?
Each and every time that you use a credit card you are going into debt.
Please try to get an understanding of the common use meaning of "a debt" vs "in debt". If you have something you need to pay, that is "a debt". When you have "a debt" that is large enough that you are currently unable to pay it, you are "in debt". If someone with a million dollars in his bank account lost his wallet and had to borrow $20 to take a cab home, he definitely has "a debt" (of $20 to whomever he borrowed from) but nobody in their right mind (except perhaps some clueless people on slashdot) would consider him to be "in debt". Being "in debt" is a state in which you are living beyond your means.
If you never incur a debt on your credit card, the bank will eventually cancel that line of credit and your credit score will go down. Try going 20 years without without any debt whatsoever (not even zero-interest debt) ... you will end up with a credit score that is mediocre to sub-prime.
Funny, I've got 2 cards from approx 2006 and 4 or 5 from 2008 that haven't been used once since. None of them have been cancelled. Credit lines were reduced when the 2008 economic crisis hit, but that was an across the board thing. Even some of my most frequently used credit cards had their credit lines cut.
My mother has a credit card that hasn't been used in at least 10 years. It hasn't been cancelled either. In addition, she hasn't had a car loan since about 1993 or 1994, and she's never had a mortgage or personal loan in her name. If you are right, then her credit should be absolute shit. Yet when I helped her switch insurance companies last year, they pulled her credit score and she was in the high 700's (anything over 720 is considered excellent). Oops, there goes your theory.
Please don't try to educate me about how credit scores work, as it's obvious you have no clue about them yourself. I'd highly recommend, if you are serious about understanding this sort of stuff, that you go spend some time on the fatwallet finance forums. I've learned a TON from these people over the last 8-9 years. The people there really understand this stuff. These are the sorts of people that work together and systematically test the credit scoring systems to determine precisely how they work, what level of impact various actions have on your scores, how long those effects last, etc. They've figured out how to game the system, applying for 20 credit cards in one day so that you can gain hundreds of thousands of dollars in credit at one time, without lenders denying you for having to many new cards. These are the people that figured out you can "bump" your credit report...sign up for a credit monitoring service, and then pull your credit report one or more times each day, in order to overflow the statically sized "inquiry" queue, knocking out the "hard pulls" (which are when you apply for new credit...the ones that actually affect your credit score) and replacing them with "soft pulls" (inquiries that don't affect your credit score, which includes things like using a credit monitoring service).
I wish. At least then I'd probably be posting this from my yacht or something.
Seriously, though...once everything crashed, savings interest rates when to shit, credit company's went into panic mode and cut credit lines drastically (amex was the worst, cutting my credit limit from $25K to $500 in one swoop), and that free money gravy train pretty much dried up.
You may have a debt, but you are not generally considered to be "going into debt" if you have the money sitting there ready to pay it off. Aside from that, my point still stands. Even having the credit available and not using at all will still help you build a great credit history.
If you have the money sitting in another account ready to repay it when it comes due, then although it is technically a debt, you are not really considered to be "in debt".
I believe 'rhythms' is the longest English word in existence without a verb.
Do you mean "vowel" rather than "verb"? If so, didn't you learn it in elementary school: A, E, I, O, U, and sometimes Y?
Why? What's new in this version of QT Creator? Or are you just now discovering Qt Creator? If so, yeah it's an awesome IDE, and I can certainly understand your excitement, but it's hardly new.