Hey, I'm just explaining why he got the mod. I'm not judging one way or the other, nor am I the one who modded it that way.
In my experience, "flamebait" typically means "I do not agree, thus I mod you flamebait", but in some cases, it actually does mean what it says, hence: textbook.
...which is covered by "physically remove your hard drive" which I wrote literally right after that, but you chose to only partially quote my sentence and leave out that bit. Did you stop reading, or just chose to selectively quote? You can't be karma whoring since you are AC.
1. If your Macbook is stolen, your data is compromised whether you have user auth on or not, since with an OS X install disk you can reset the admin password. Alternatively they can just boot it in firewire mode and mount the disk on another machine and take your data that way (or physically remove the HD). Unless you specifically set your keychain password to something other than your admin password this also means any password you store in there is compromised too. Are you suggesting that Macbooks ship with Filevault turned on? I would suggest that when you start a new user profile that it recommends that your keychain master password is different from your login password, but this is going to get in the way of a smooth user experience (which is a crummy reason to reduce security, but there is a balance between security and convenience that we all have to decide on) - by default the Mac is pretty open, but you can chose to enable the firewall, create different passwords for your keychain, run as a non-admin user etc etc as you see fit.
2. Yes, it should be on by default. I have no idea why it isn't.
3. The Apple TV is a bit of a special case - it should be updated to newer wireless standards, but I assume there is a technical reason why this is not so at the moment. Everything else on current Mac hardware on the wireless front (ie, anything that is g or better) supports at least WPA or WPA2 as well as the more esoteric WPA2 enterprise protocols as well as the less secure WEP stuff for compatibility. If you have an Apple TV on your network, you either need to drop to WEP or hook it up over ethernet - a problem that does need to be addressed.
No, you just made a claim about "appple apologists" [sic] that you completely failed to back up. You then threw out your own baseless accusation, again with no citation.
Textbook flamebait.
You can replace "Apple" with "MS" or "Sun" or "Verizon" or "Amazon" or "Google" for exactly the same mod result.
Re:Open source is the coat tails that Google rides
on
How Google Uses Linux
·
· Score: 1
Is "Amazingly short sighted" your sig, that is a self referential thing you need to tack onto everything you write? Seems very apt.
No one was "thinking of the children" when the UK socket was designed in 1946 - the immediate post-war era wasn't known for it's overbearing health and safety legislation. It was just adopted as a sensible precaution for covering the pins since they were changing the design anyway (from 3 pin round plugs at 5A).
In answer to (1), the plastic shielding on British plugs is on the plug pins themselves, so if you pull it partially out, the pins are covered for long enough that no metal will be exposed on the live or neutral pins until they have broken their electrical connection with the socket, which achieves the same protection that the recessed Euro socket does.
Some older plugs have no plastic on them, but newer plugs (from the last 20 years or so) have had the plastic shroud.
That "current UK tech" *is* from 50 years ago - that's how our plugs have been for a very long time - since 1946 in fact. So 63 years.
We also have RCDs on our circuits in addition to fuses - Even the ancient house I live in has an RCD protecting the mains sockets and the light circuits.
Almost all laptop power bricks use switching transformers - it means they don;t have to make a specific model for each country they sell the laptop in. Even my UK-spec iMac, which was never designed to travel runs just fine on US or UK power - it'll run on anything between 110 and 250V and 50 or 60Hz.
Apple's brick has a standard figure 8 connector (albeit with a fancy Apple-design slide-and-clip if you use the plug block or one of their official cables) so you can use a standard figure 8 flex cord with it here in the UK - if you have to travel back here, just buy one at duty free, it'll cost you about £2 - no need to buy an official Apple power cable for it.
No way. Unless you're talking about Henry VIII's plugs - before we had 13A 3-pin square, the UK used 5A 3-pin round, so in an ancient house with asbestos wiring you'll see sockets with three round pins
I have never, ever, ever had a shutter jam on a plug socket I have used, and I have used more than my fair share.
Your "lights dimming" thing is also total rubbish - the lighting circuit is completely different to the mains circuit in UK houses, and is managed by a separate breaker, so the current draw on one (or a light bulb blowing on the other) won't affect the other circuit in the slightest.
When a light bulb pops in the UK, you'll likely trip out the RCD for that circuit (so all your upstairs lights go out) but your sockets are not affected. Similarly, if you plug in an appliance with an earth fault either its fuse will burn out in the plug (if you have the right fuse) or you'll trip the mains breaker, but your lights stay on.
The new US outlets with the mandatory earth pin are much better - but as many people here have said, can you be *really* sure that they are actually wired properly? One of the benefits of the UK system, as mature as it is, is that you know an installed socket is earthed, and whatever you plug into it, the plug will never fall out.
The non-grounded plugs are for doubly insulated devices, and only require neutral and live connections. These special plugs are moulded onto cords either directly attached to the appliance it was designed for, or terminate in a "figure 8" connector to connect up to a device with the appropriate power input. You cannot buy them without a flex to connect up to a cord with an earth wire - all replacement fitted plugs are the full earthed type, even if you don't wire the earth since the flex you have is lacking one (but you'd never use this on a non-double insulated device).
The UK plug is that way up by default - with the earth pin on top. The earth pin is also longer than the live and neutral pins so it is the first pin to make electrical contact in the socket and the last to break it.
The earth pin also opens the shutters on the socket that allow the live and neutral pins to connect.
British mains is rated at 13A for the standard sockets at each outlet, at 230V. You can run a pair of 3000W appliances right from the same double plug, hence the extra need to fuse the items you can hook up to those sockets.
While I think the earthed US plug with the extra earth pin is ok, the unearthed ones are just hopeless - the plug is just not secure enough for my liking at all, and if you have a transformer plug, or a converter plug so I can plug my british multi-voltage items in then it's even worse. The only way I found to make it work effectively was to use an extension cord and plug into that.
Well the other one is so far off the human tolerance scale in C that it's unlikely.
Depends if a Toughbook could survive baking in an oven at 150C - I know a Powerbook G4 can, with only the screen and keys dying (ie, it boots up, just need to connect a usb kb and external monitor).
No need - a little red light comes on somewhere in Cupertino and Steve picks up a phone and calls a team of highly trained ninjas to deal with it.
Steve: Hello ninjas? Ninjas: Yes? Steve: A non-Apple user just dropped one of our brethren's Macbooks. Ninjas: Again? Steve: Yup. Ninjas: We're on it. You want the head in a jar again for your collection? Steve: Sure, can you maybe grab his liver too... you never know...
Disclaimer: I am an Apple user, so this is probably not accurate. I'll bet Phil Schiller handles the ninja calls.
On OS X itself (that is set up this way) the Airport icon changes into a base station icon with an arrow to show you the card is running in AP mode instead of ad-hoc wireless network (which is a different icon again) or normal wireless client mode.
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Hey, I'm just explaining why he got the mod. I'm not judging one way or the other, nor am I the one who modded it that way.
In my experience, "flamebait" typically means "I do not agree, thus I mod you flamebait", but in some cases, it actually does mean what it says, hence: textbook.
Wow. You're either stupid, or trolling.
I'll go with trolling. No one is that stupid.
Except maybe getting Duckrolled.
Don't you young'uns know anything?
...which is covered by "physically remove your hard drive" which I wrote literally right after that, but you chose to only partially quote my sentence and leave out that bit. Did you stop reading, or just chose to selectively quote? You can't be karma whoring since you are AC.
1. If your Macbook is stolen, your data is compromised whether you have user auth on or not, since with an OS X install disk you can reset the admin password. Alternatively they can just boot it in firewire mode and mount the disk on another machine and take your data that way (or physically remove the HD). Unless you specifically set your keychain password to something other than your admin password this also means any password you store in there is compromised too. Are you suggesting that Macbooks ship with Filevault turned on? I would suggest that when you start a new user profile that it recommends that your keychain master password is different from your login password, but this is going to get in the way of a smooth user experience (which is a crummy reason to reduce security, but there is a balance between security and convenience that we all have to decide on) - by default the Mac is pretty open, but you can chose to enable the firewall, create different passwords for your keychain, run as a non-admin user etc etc as you see fit.
2. Yes, it should be on by default. I have no idea why it isn't.
3. The Apple TV is a bit of a special case - it should be updated to newer wireless standards, but I assume there is a technical reason why this is not so at the moment. Everything else on current Mac hardware on the wireless front (ie, anything that is g or better) supports at least WPA or WPA2 as well as the more esoteric WPA2 enterprise protocols as well as the less secure WEP stuff for compatibility. If you have an Apple TV on your network, you either need to drop to WEP or hook it up over ethernet - a problem that does need to be addressed.
No, you just made a claim about "appple apologists" [sic] that you completely failed to back up. You then threw out your own baseless accusation, again with no citation.
Textbook flamebait.
You can replace "Apple" with "MS" or "Sun" or "Verizon" or "Amazon" or "Google" for exactly the same mod result.
Is "Amazingly short sighted" your sig, that is a self referential thing you need to tack onto everything you write? Seems very apt.
No one was "thinking of the children" when the UK socket was designed in 1946 - the immediate post-war era wasn't known for it's overbearing health and safety legislation. It was just adopted as a sensible precaution for covering the pins since they were changing the design anyway (from 3 pin round plugs at 5A).
In answer to (1), the plastic shielding on British plugs is on the plug pins themselves, so if you pull it partially out, the pins are covered for long enough that no metal will be exposed on the live or neutral pins until they have broken their electrical connection with the socket, which achieves the same protection that the recessed Euro socket does.
Some older plugs have no plastic on them, but newer plugs (from the last 20 years or so) have had the plastic shroud.
That "current UK tech" *is* from 50 years ago - that's how our plugs have been for a very long time - since 1946 in fact. So 63 years.
We also have RCDs on our circuits in addition to fuses - Even the ancient house I live in has an RCD protecting the mains sockets and the light circuits.
Almost all laptop power bricks use switching transformers - it means they don;t have to make a specific model for each country they sell the laptop in. Even my UK-spec iMac, which was never designed to travel runs just fine on US or UK power - it'll run on anything between 110 and 250V and 50 or 60Hz.
Apple's brick has a standard figure 8 connector (albeit with a fancy Apple-design slide-and-clip if you use the plug block or one of their official cables) so you can use a standard figure 8 flex cord with it here in the UK - if you have to travel back here, just buy one at duty free, it'll cost you about £2 - no need to buy an official Apple power cable for it.
http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Peripherals/Cabling/Power/Power+Lead+(Figure+8+Connector)+UK+3pin+?productId=58 - these plug right into Apple's power bricks.
No way. Unless you're talking about Henry VIII's plugs - before we had 13A 3-pin square, the UK used 5A 3-pin round, so in an ancient house with asbestos wiring you'll see sockets with three round pins
I have never, ever, ever had a shutter jam on a plug socket I have used, and I have used more than my fair share.
Your "lights dimming" thing is also total rubbish - the lighting circuit is completely different to the mains circuit in UK houses, and is managed by a separate breaker, so the current draw on one (or a light bulb blowing on the other) won't affect the other circuit in the slightest.
When a light bulb pops in the UK, you'll likely trip out the RCD for that circuit (so all your upstairs lights go out) but your sockets are not affected. Similarly, if you plug in an appliance with an earth fault either its fuse will burn out in the plug (if you have the right fuse) or you'll trip the mains breaker, but your lights stay on.
The new US outlets with the mandatory earth pin are much better - but as many people here have said, can you be *really* sure that they are actually wired properly? One of the benefits of the UK system, as mature as it is, is that you know an installed socket is earthed, and whatever you plug into it, the plug will never fall out.
The non-grounded plugs are for doubly insulated devices, and only require neutral and live connections. These special plugs are moulded onto cords either directly attached to the appliance it was designed for, or terminate in a "figure 8" connector to connect up to a device with the appropriate power input. You cannot buy them without a flex to connect up to a cord with an earth wire - all replacement fitted plugs are the full earthed type, even if you don't wire the earth since the flex you have is lacking one (but you'd never use this on a non-double insulated device).
The UK plug is that way up by default - with the earth pin on top. The earth pin is also longer than the live and neutral pins so it is the first pin to make electrical contact in the socket and the last to break it.
The earth pin also opens the shutters on the socket that allow the live and neutral pins to connect.
British mains is rated at 13A for the standard sockets at each outlet, at 230V. You can run a pair of 3000W appliances right from the same double plug, hence the extra need to fuse the items you can hook up to those sockets.
While I think the earthed US plug with the extra earth pin is ok, the unearthed ones are just hopeless - the plug is just not secure enough for my liking at all, and if you have a transformer plug, or a converter plug so I can plug my british multi-voltage items in then it's even worse. The only way I found to make it work effectively was to use an extension cord and plug into that.
Hey, lightning never strikes twice, at least not on Steve's watch.
Well the other one is so far off the human tolerance scale in C that it's unlikely.
Depends if a Toughbook could survive baking in an oven at 150C - I know a Powerbook G4 can, with only the screen and keys dying (ie, it boots up, just need to connect a usb kb and external monitor).
But didn't someone mention earlier that in X11 terminology, client and server were reversed, or has it been swapped around to make it more logical?
No need - a little red light comes on somewhere in Cupertino and Steve picks up a phone and calls a team of highly trained ninjas to deal with it.
Steve: Hello ninjas?
Ninjas: Yes?
Steve: A non-Apple user just dropped one of our brethren's Macbooks.
Ninjas: Again?
Steve: Yup.
Ninjas: We're on it. You want the head in a jar again for your collection?
Steve: Sure, can you maybe grab his liver too... you never know...
Disclaimer: I am an Apple user, so this is probably not accurate. I'll bet Phil Schiller handles the ninja calls.
-40 is the same in both C and F, so no need for units.
Kelvin can't be a negative value, so you know it's not K.
Are you kidding? I'd blend the cat.
"May he rest as liquid" is how it should have read.
It does indeed show up as an access point.
On OS X itself (that is set up this way) the Airport icon changes into a base station icon with an arrow to show you the card is running in AP mode instead of ad-hoc wireless network (which is a different icon again) or normal wireless client mode.
Antitrust?!
What are you smoking?
What is Apple's marketshare of desktop PCs? Do you have other options of OSes to put on Atom-powered netbooks? How many?
So double correction, the ATI cards were all PCI-E, the mid 2006 24" had an Nvidia 7300GT with this MXM setup.
Aha, in which case, the 24" iMac cards are all PCI-E - says so right in the specs sheets.