Can anyone recommend an easy (no-solder), inexpensive, external-switch equipped modchip preloaded with the Cromwell BIOS?:) The external switch would be if I ever decide to buy, rent or borrow an actual XBox game;)
The no-solder modchips (pogo pins) are bad enough when you keep your unit in one spot, they'll last about as long as a fart in a whirlwind if you use this thing in your car. No way...
Go ahead and get an Xcuter2.x Pro and solder the sucker in. It isn't that hard*, and it will last. Be sure to correctly identify your Xbox prior to purchasing your modchip. The older modchips will not work with the newer xboxes. It should come with the Cromwell BIOS, which should work for what you want to do.
As for the illegit BIOS'es, as long as you don't use your modded Xbox to steal software, I can't see any problem with them (and please don't steal the games, it makes us all look like thieves and it just ain't right).
* John's Xbox modding tip:
When you go to solder in the 11 pin header, as seen here:
1) Install the header in upside down with the long side of the pins in the board rather than the "right" way.
2) Hold the header out so it just clears the back of the Xbox motherboard and solder a few of the pins in place.
3) Make sure that everything is straight & level and solder the remaining pins in place on the back of the motherboard.
4) Flip the mobo over and now solder the top side of the pins down.
Because the header holes on the Xbox mobo are not thru-plated, you absolutely must have solder on both sides. Fail to do this and the modchip will not work.
By soldering the pins on both sides, you can be sure that there is a good connection before you close up your Xbox.
5) When you are satisfied, gently push the plastic pin holder down so that it is flush with the top of the mobo.
I've done two of these this way now (after having trouble following directions:) and this technique works very well.
Be patient, work in good light, and possibly use a magnifying glass if one is handy and you should do just fine:) Solder the D0 line on the backside (where there is no solder mask to interfere with the soldering) using wirewrap wire if you have some handy (or some other really small wire). Tape the wire down with masking tape.
Computer controlled engravers usually start around $4k (and they go up to $100k or better for the biggies). The simple pantograph units are far less expensive, but still start around a grand.
Of course, the panto's won't work well for grinding PCB's unless you are flat-out awesome at freehand work;>
Some of our toolers (toolmakers) have built their own mills out of, uhh, scrap laying around (high-dollar scrap to be sure) and these work pretty much as well as a professional engraving machine. However, they don't even come close to competing with one of our Bridgeports, but the cost is around a grand (steppers, lead screws, software, Roto-Zip, and our high-dollar frame).
You can get the basic drive stuff from www.stepperworld.com for $200 -$350, but you still need the frame, screws, Roto-Zip, and other bits.
Hi there, just a non-AC confirming what the AC had said.
You're clueless.
We've built some of these at work, and along with using them to mill PCB's (yes, Printed Circuit Boards), they are also used to mill (engrave) device tags (which is what we have them for). And for a hell of a lot less than a "professional" engraving machine would cost.
They won't do much in the way of cutting steel, but plastics & wood do very well.
And while this gent has apparently gone whole-hog homebrewing his mill, you can easily get what you need to make a very nice mill off of the web.
And since we have toolers building the mills the results tend to be very pretty indeed:) Sort of hard to duplicate at home though...
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As for ripping off rentals, I hope that the parent poster was just making an ass of himself and not being serious.
Can anyone recommend an easy (no-solder), inexpensive, external-switch equipped modchip preloaded with the Cromwell BIOS? :) The external switch would be if I ever decide to buy, rent or borrow an actual XBox game ;)
The no-solder modchips (pogo pins) are bad enough when you keep your unit in one spot, they'll last about as long as a fart in a whirlwind if you use this thing in your car. No way...
Go ahead and get an Xcuter2.x Pro and solder the sucker in. It isn't that hard*, and it will last. Be sure to correctly identify your Xbox prior to purchasing your modchip. The older modchips will not work with the newer xboxes. It should come with the Cromwell BIOS, which should work for what you want to do.
As for the illegit BIOS'es, as long as you don't use your modded Xbox to steal software, I can't see any problem with them (and please don't steal the games, it makes us all look like thieves and it just ain't right).
* John's Xbox modding tip:
When you go to solder in the 11 pin header, as seen here:
(Lookie)
1) Install the header in upside down with the long side of the pins in the board rather than the "right" way.
2) Hold the header out so it just clears the back of the Xbox motherboard and solder a few of the pins in place.
3) Make sure that everything is straight & level and solder the remaining pins in place on the back of the motherboard.
4) Flip the mobo over and now solder the top side of the pins down.
Because the header holes on the Xbox mobo are not thru-plated, you absolutely must have solder on both sides . Fail to do this and the modchip will not work.
By soldering the pins on both sides, you can be sure that there is a good connection before you close up your Xbox.
5) When you are satisfied, gently push the plastic pin holder down so that it is flush with the top of the mobo.
I've done two of these this way now (after having trouble following directions :) and this technique works very well.
Be patient, work in good light, and possibly use a magnifying glass if one is handy and you should do just fine :) Solder the D0 line on the backside (where there is no solder mask to interfere with the soldering) using wirewrap wire if you have some handy (or some other really small wire). Tape the wire down with masking tape.
JohnBeen there, done that. At least the research. :)
;>
Computer controlled engravers usually start around $4k (and they go up to $100k or better for the biggies). The simple pantograph units are far less expensive, but still start around a grand.
Of course, the panto's won't work well for grinding PCB's unless you are flat-out awesome at freehand work
Some of our toolers (toolmakers) have built their own mills out of, uhh, scrap laying around (high-dollar scrap to be sure) and these work pretty much as well as a professional engraving machine. However, they don't even come close to competing with one of our Bridgeports, but the cost is around a grand (steppers, lead screws, software, Roto-Zip, and our high-dollar frame).
You can get the basic drive stuff from www.stepperworld.com for $200 -$350, but you still need the frame, screws, Roto-Zip, and other bits.
John
Hi there, just a non-AC confirming what the AC had said.
:) Sort of hard to duplicate at home though...
You're clueless.
We've built some of these at work, and along with using them to mill PCB's (yes, Printed Circuit Boards), they are also used to mill (engrave) device tags (which is what we have them for). And for a hell of a lot less than a "professional" engraving machine would cost.
They won't do much in the way of cutting steel, but plastics & wood do very well.
And while this gent has apparently gone whole-hog homebrewing his mill, you can easily get what you need to make a very nice mill off of the web.
And since we have toolers building the mills the results tend to be very pretty indeed
Try http://www.stepperworld.com/ for starters.
Consider yourself educated.