This is just using the features they provide for a remote start install. But you can really muck things up using just pin 2 of the OBD-II port on GMs. In fact you can make the whole car either A> not run properly or B> cause the car to shut down fairly easily via the CANbus.
I know GM uses j1850 for their OBD-II/CAN setup. Some of the things that can be read off of pin 2 at the OBD-II connector include Tach signal, bypass the chip-in-key, control door locks (mostly on 2001 and up though some older ones apply as well), control OEM alarm, turn on heated accessories, etc as well as getting diag codes from port as normal.
There are other locations for the CAN interface in other makes/models as well. For example, in Hyundai cars one can find a low speed CAN in the drivers kick panel. IIRC it's a Red/Black & Blue twisted pair (in around the 2006-2007 model years) that will control door locks and OEM alarm. There's a high speed CAN that's an Orange & blue twisted pair that controls significantly more within the car.
Via the CAN on newer Honda's (2008+ typically) you can control the door locks, factory alarm, read if the brake pedal is pushed or not, hood pin status if there's an OEM hood pin, when a door is opened, tach signal, e-brake status, VSS, etc.
Even reading Wikipedia or googling for how CAN works is a good start. Also check out Socketcan that according to the Wiki entry VW Research released to the Linux Kernel and can be found in 2.6.25 and up. The concept extends the Berkley sockets API that adds a new protocol family that coexists with other families such as IP. Here's a quote from the article:
The SocketCAN concept extends the Berkeley sockets API in Linux by introducing a new protocol family PF_CAN that coexists with other protocol families like PF_INET for the Internet Protocol. The communication with the CAN bus is done analogue to the use of the Internet Protocol via Sockets. Fundamental components of SocketCAN are the network device drivers for different CAN controllers and the implementation of the CAN protocol family. The protocol family PF_CAN provide the structures to enable different protocols on the bus: Raw sockets for direct CAN communication and transport protocols for point-to-point connections. Moreover the broadcast manager which is part of the CAN protocol family provides functions e.g. for sending CAN messages periodically or realize complex message filters.
For an idea on where various CANs are located within a car and what features may be possible, look at the different companies that make utilities and/or interfaces for that car. For example, idatalink allows you to look up which of their modules work for which car, which features they have been able to implement (using different "platforms" after loading the correct firmware), and in the installation directions it shows where they tagged into the CANbus at.
WRONG. OBD-II can do a lot more than that. For example in GM's, pin 2 at the ODB-II connetor will allow you to read tach signals, turn on heated accessories, control the OEM alarm and door locks, bypass the Passkey 3, etc. That's where remote start/alarm interface modules for GM cars tap into the CANbus (j1850).
The radio in GM's (2001+) also don't have an accessory wire, it uses data as well which appears to also be tagged into the same CANbus. You must use a module to keep the factory chimes and create an accessory for you (you could just run your own ACC line but you lose all the features controlled via the radio over the data link). I've heard numerous times from other installers where an idatalink rem start/alarm module wouldn't program to a GM correctly with the aftermarket radio/adaptor installed. Unplug the adaptor, plug the factory radio in, and everything programs fine. So on some makes/models there's a lot more running over that CAN interface than you have any idea about.
I've purchased many cell phones over the years. Have you ever tried to take a ringtone you purchased for one and re-get it for another? It doesn't happen. You have to call the carrier and bitch until they give you credit or something of the sort.
Same goes for games, etc. Even with my Blackberry storm, after wiping it clean and updating the firmware (wiping out all of my apps etc), you aren't able to get the apps again without paying. This happened to me for a Garmin produced weather program I purchased. After cleaning my BB out (to regain room and speed.. thing sucks after a few months) I couldn't just download it from the App World. It was a $10 or $15 application.
Knowing I couldn't just re-download and activate via the App World on the SAME PHONE with the same BB pin and all, I knew there was no way it was going to happen with a replacement BB after mine went bad.
I was looking for something better than MSSE for my wife's mothers PC. Her dad tends to stick to AVG (I'd rather him use something else but whatever)... I found the Panda Cloud AV after googling around wasting time. The reviews I've read are pretty positive, with some hick-ups listed in the forums but that's to be expected as it's a "Beta" and mostly related to UI.
Another question I have about Free AV... has anyone found one that will work on a Server version of Windows? I have a small box that is running Server 2003 downloaded via Dreamspark, it's mostly just for fooling around with not actual server server roles. Every AV, even free, will refuse to install on it unless it's a Corp or Enterprise edition. Problem is, I don't have a ton of boxes I need a Corp or Enterprise edition on, and you can only get those versions of AV in 6 or more license packs for a pretty hefty chuck of cash. I will say I didn't try to install the Cloud AV yet, but I doubt it will work either. This machine doesn't have internet access unless I have it bridged via my laptop, it's mainly for just my internal lan use. Can anyone provide any feedback there?
Yes, I'm an American and I find it fantastic that Canada and the EP have a damn head on their shoulders. As long as Americans believe there are ONLY TWO POLITICAL PARTIES, this country will be f'ed. Those in control have been there too long and need to be replaced. The problem is those two parties have all the money for running real political campaigns. If an independent or some other political party had the money to actually get their name out, AND (and a HUGE and) if the American people wouldn't just vote BASED ON A PARTY NAME, things in this country could be much better. As it is now, you have two real parties and one of them is basically given control of the congress and/or house so they can just push what bills they want out the door. IF American's would actually open up their mind and quit voting by party name, and IF we could get 4, 5, or 6 PARTIES into congress and house, thing would be less "This is what we (as in the controlling party) want, push it though!" to more checks and balances on the whole process. It wouldn't be a controlling group with the same ideas in charge, but a mix of ideas from a range of people.. and I have a feeling it would keep more crap like this from appearing, as well as cut back on all the bullshit tucked away in bills.
This isn't much different than using Bluetooth and the Ubuntu lock package.. you link your bluetooth device with the computer, and then if you're phone/bluetooth device is further away than a distance you set the computer goes into a screensaver lock. When the bluetooth device is within the proximity again, the screensaver unlocks and you can use the PC again.
Also, many companies and HUD housing little key ring RF devices that you run near a pad and the door unlocks/opens. Placing this chip into a phone isn't much different. Heck a lot of cars now use smartkeys that also use this method. Even home automation (for example Control4) has options for this as well that I believe can be linked to a phone also. I'm not sure what Apple is going to be able to patent in regard to this idea that hasn't already been patented, or isn't obvious to anyone in the field.
You're option #2 would still retain braking power IF it's the good old fashioned vacuum based breaking system. (Not, obviously, if it was an electronic brake booster). Your option #2 as stated leaves the car in gear, so the motor would lose electrical power, but would still physically be moving since it's in gear, still creating a vacuum allowing the vacuum based break booster to still function fine.
The ECU has a processor to read the inputs from more sensors than you'd think, and reference them across a map. For example, a 1997 Honda prelude the ECU reads both Oxygen sensors, the Manifold Absolute Pressure, air temperature, etc, etc and cross references off of a "grid" in the ECU to determine how long and hard to run the injectors as well as timing. There's also a time when the ECU runs right off of the sensors to determine in more of a real time when you're in WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Depending on the RPM's changes things a lot. If you're under around 2200 RPM's, there's a buttery fly valve in the first part of the intake piping that's closed to help lowered end torque, over 2200 the ECU opens the butterfly valve for more air. Once you hit about 4800 the ECU opens the secondary runners on the intake manifold that allows a shorter runner length increasing HP (both runners to each cylinder is used). Under 4800 the ECU closed the valves so only the longer runners are used, again increasing torque. Once you hit 5200 RPM, if the oil pressure is high enough, and the engine is warmed up enough, the ECU engages the VTEC solenoid which then uses oil pressure to basically "shoot a pin" to lock both intake and both exhaust valve lifters to a 3rd lifter that follows a more aggressive profile on the camshaft, increasing how long and far the valves open for increase high end horsepower. The ECU will also control many other things, such as the EGR valve, etc.
You also have the state where the ECU will trip into a limp mode. If a sensor fails or the ecu detects a severe error in the engine system, (pre-detonation, EGR, etc) the CEL (Check Engine Light) will kick on and actually BLINK at you. If it doesn't blink, it's not that bad of an issue, such as an oxygen sensor that the car can still run fine without by looking at the map in the ECU. But when it blinks because of a reading that's way off for the conditions the engine is in or some other reason, the ECU is programmed to dump fuel so the engine runs really rich (safer than running lean), limit the RPM's to about 3700 redline, and a few other things.
Now that's just for the ECU in an OBD-IIA car. There's much more going on in OBD-IIB cars, and the above doesn't include the SRS system, ABS system, Stability systems in SUV's, etc. Also, most cars now a days use a CANBUS (think ethernet network for lack of better terms) to interlink devices. In newer GM's there's a few functions in the radio that are controlled by the data flowing over the CANBUS (such as the dinger for your keys are still in the ignition, your lights are on, etc) as well as tach signals, diagnostic information, door lock controls, etc. It makes figuring out and fixing an issue much easier when you can just tap into a diagnostic port and see how the whole car is doing instead of certain components, as well as upgrading the flash when an issue is found. The downside is, such as the GM's, if you're car didn't come equipped with XM as a factory option, and you want to add either the factory XM or an aftermarket unit to the factory radio, you may have to go back to the dealership to have them actually ENABLE the ability to do so in the factory radio...
It wouldn't be hard for them to read the Throttle Position Sensor.. even a drive-by-wire car would have one of those, and if they see the throttle is wide open + you're braking to kill the motor, or have a stepped down rev limiter activate.
I do know, from rental car use, some cars won't allow you to rev the motor and shift into a gear. IIRC if it was a Corolla or Cavalier, or both, that did it, but if you sat in neutral and revved the motor, and tried shifting into D the ECU would actually cut power until the RPMs came down to a certain level and THEN the tranny would actually shift into gear
It would be even worse in a VW/Audi. I hate the setup they use for the ignition cylinder. If you were say suddenly doing 60+ MPH and you decided to turn the key off to kill power, if say you did need to turn the key back on to Ignition/Run for whatever reason (power steering, wheel position locked, etc), you can't just turn the key back to Ignition/Run, you must turn it all the way off, and THEN you can turn it to Ignition/Run
I read an interesting article in Alaska Magazine about a town up there where the temperature can hit -50 to -60 without wind, and any moisture instantly turns to little ice "cubes" (for lack of better terms). It basically looks like fog, but you can literally scoop it with a shovel. The article mentioned if you don't have a heated garage, you're pretty much stuck leaving your car running, because if you turn it off after a few hours you won't be able to get it started again it's that cold.
that's funny, because Road and Track listed some of the cars in the US with the highest millage, and of those drivers (one was a Volvo with over a million miles, and one was an Accord with over 750,000).. the drivers never really turned their cars off. For example, the Accord was owned by a guy who worked as a Meter Reader, and would leave his car idle as he walked around the houses. He said it was only ever really turned off for routine maintenance or when he was sleeping. I know my parents Accord has over 350,000 and runs great.. and it has a remote start that gets used quite often.
My father had the same attitude, until I installed one for him. After you have one, you'll regret ever having a car without one. It's also good for parents of young kids. It allows you to warm the car up (in a safer fashion than leaving the keys in it running) or cool the car down before putting an infant inside
seriously, guys... quit spouting this stuff out about something you obviously have no clue about. HE ALREADY HAS AN AFTER MARKET REMOTE START INSTALLED. All this is doing is sending the required NEGATIVE trigger to the remote start's neg activation input. THIS IS NO DIFFERENT THAN USING THE REMOTE STARTS REMOTE. The remote start is then activated, enabling whatever immobilizer bypass that was installed for the REMOTE START to work (Passkey III, PATS, VATS, MITS, etc). The car alarm WON'T go off as the remote start's factory alarm disarm output would pulse the car's DISARM wire, or some car's alarms disarm if you pulse the keysense wire, or when the correct IMMOB code is picked up, etc.
Another thing, there are some remote starts designed for manual cars. You must put the ebrake on and release the foot brake while the car is running. Then you hit the remote start button on your remote, turn the key off, get out, close the door and press lock on the remote. The remote start then knows it's in neutral. If the door is open, key turned on, alarm trigger (if it's a unit with alarm + remote start features) etc the car WILL NOT REMOTE START. And again, this has nothing to do with what his guy did. He just found another way to activate the remote start. As for the starter engaging every 5 seconds.. there's obvious ways to stop this, and he EVEN TALKS about the way he did that in his blog thing.. which you apparently did not read before posting:)
uh... you don't have a clue what you're talking about do you? If someone dialed the wrong number, his car would start. Big deal. It's no different than if he had pressed the button on the remote start's remote. It would run for 12-24 minutes (depending on what it's set to) and shut off. I love the people who jump on the "OMG WHAT IF?!?!" and really don't have a clue what they are talking about:)
RAMBUS did the same as Nvidia, with RAMBUS RBRAM or whatever it was called found in Dell Pentium 4 (IIRC) PC's, etc. RAMBUS was faster memory at that type, but I haven't kept up with what they've produced since then and how to compares to the other options.
... until I use your time machine to go back in time to one year before you "invented" your time machine, showing up at the USPTO, and promptly filing a patent on the completed design.
I'd just like to add this was done in alice 2.2. Alice 3.0 is currently in beta but is underwritten by EA, and uses characters from the Sims 2. It's quite a bit nicer than the 2.2 release, which as you may notice in the youtube video, the export to video option doesn't keep the video and music completely in sync, and your graphics card + version of quicktime can affect it greatly.
Amazingly, you're only the second to recommend ALICE. It was what my teacher used in our problem solving and logic class (he knows some people at CMU who worked on it).
Alice is very object oriented, easy to pick up on yet can do some pretty cool things. Here's a quick class project I put together.. it's a demo I did for the class, and was put together within the first few hours of having ever touched alice. Doeasn't look like much but the behind the scenes code for the timining and all that is quite large.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65swK6i3HgE
There's a lot more demos of Alice projects on youtube as well
Slashdot Mirror
And if the head gasket leak is the cause of your "misfire" then you better get a new mechanic as well
sorry for replying to my own, but in the Thread link above they talk about his company which has a USB -> CAN adapter for $395
http://www.intrepidcs.com/
There's also a Cobb Tuner for Subi's if you have $500 to blow lol
ah forgot a link:
idatalink list for 2010 Chevy Colbolt
This is just using the features they provide for a remote start install. But you can really muck things up using just pin 2 of the OBD-II port on GMs. In fact you can make the whole car either A> not run properly or B> cause the car to shut down fairly easily via the CANbus.
First off, there's a few different variants of CAN. For the basic OBD-II set they are mostly the same.
Here is a link to a forum thread with links to basic/starter info: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/hardware-development/51772-class-2-data-bus-j1850.html
I know GM uses j1850 for their OBD-II/CAN setup. Some of the things that can be read off of pin 2 at the OBD-II connector include Tach signal, bypass the chip-in-key, control door locks (mostly on 2001 and up though some older ones apply as well), control OEM alarm, turn on heated accessories, etc as well as getting diag codes from port as normal.
There are other locations for the CAN interface in other makes/models as well. For example, in Hyundai cars one can find a low speed CAN in the drivers kick panel. IIRC it's a Red/Black & Blue twisted pair (in around the 2006-2007 model years) that will control door locks and OEM alarm. There's a high speed CAN that's an Orange & blue twisted pair that controls significantly more within the car.
Via the CAN on newer Honda's (2008+ typically) you can control the door locks, factory alarm, read if the brake pedal is pushed or not, hood pin status if there's an OEM hood pin, when a door is opened, tach signal, e-brake status, VSS, etc.
Even reading Wikipedia or googling for how CAN works is a good start. Also check out Socketcan that according to the Wiki entry VW Research released to the Linux Kernel and can be found in 2.6.25 and up. The concept extends the Berkley sockets API that adds a new protocol family that coexists with other families such as IP. Here's a quote from the article:
The SocketCAN concept extends the Berkeley sockets API in Linux by introducing a new protocol family PF_CAN that coexists with other protocol families like PF_INET for the Internet Protocol. The communication with the CAN bus is done analogue to the use of the Internet Protocol via Sockets. Fundamental components of SocketCAN are the network device drivers for different CAN controllers and the implementation of the CAN protocol family. The protocol family PF_CAN provide the structures to enable different protocols on the bus: Raw sockets for direct CAN communication and transport protocols for point-to-point connections. Moreover the broadcast manager which is part of the CAN protocol family provides functions e.g. for sending CAN messages periodically or realize complex message filters.
One more link for you: Canbus
For an idea on where various CANs are located within a car and what features may be possible, look at the different companies that make utilities and/or interfaces for that car. For example, idatalink allows you to look up which of their modules work for which car, which features they have been able to implement (using different "platforms" after loading the correct firmware), and in the installation directions it shows where they tagged into the CANbus at.
WRONG. OBD-II can do a lot more than that. For example in GM's, pin 2 at the ODB-II connetor will allow you to read tach signals, turn on heated accessories, control the OEM alarm and door locks, bypass the Passkey 3, etc. That's where remote start/alarm interface modules for GM cars tap into the CANbus (j1850).
The radio in GM's (2001+) also don't have an accessory wire, it uses data as well which appears to also be tagged into the same CANbus. You must use a module to keep the factory chimes and create an accessory for you (you could just run your own ACC line but you lose all the features controlled via the radio over the data link). I've heard numerous times from other installers where an idatalink rem start/alarm module wouldn't program to a GM correctly with the aftermarket radio/adaptor installed. Unplug the adaptor, plug the factory radio in, and everything programs fine. So on some makes/models there's a lot more running over that CAN interface than you have any idea about.
I've purchased many cell phones over the years. Have you ever tried to take a ringtone you purchased for one and re-get it for another? It doesn't happen. You have to call the carrier and bitch until they give you credit or something of the sort.
Same goes for games, etc. Even with my Blackberry storm, after wiping it clean and updating the firmware (wiping out all of my apps etc), you aren't able to get the apps again without paying. This happened to me for a Garmin produced weather program I purchased. After cleaning my BB out (to regain room and speed.. thing sucks after a few months) I couldn't just download it from the App World. It was a $10 or $15 application.
Knowing I couldn't just re-download and activate via the App World on the SAME PHONE with the same BB pin and all, I knew there was no way it was going to happen with a replacement BB after mine went bad.
http://www.cloudantivirus.com/en/
I was looking for something better than MSSE for my wife's mothers PC. Her dad tends to stick to AVG (I'd rather him use something else but whatever)... I found the Panda Cloud AV after googling around wasting time. The reviews I've read are pretty positive, with some hick-ups listed in the forums but that's to be expected as it's a "Beta" and mostly related to UI.
Another question I have about Free AV... has anyone found one that will work on a Server version of Windows? I have a small box that is running Server 2003 downloaded via Dreamspark, it's mostly just for fooling around with not actual server server roles. Every AV, even free, will refuse to install on it unless it's a Corp or Enterprise edition. Problem is, I don't have a ton of boxes I need a Corp or Enterprise edition on, and you can only get those versions of AV in 6 or more license packs for a pretty hefty chuck of cash. I will say I didn't try to install the Cloud AV yet, but I doubt it will work either. This machine doesn't have internet access unless I have it bridged via my laptop, it's mainly for just my internal lan use. Can anyone provide any feedback there?
Yes, I'm an American and I find it fantastic that Canada and the EP have a damn head on their shoulders. As long as Americans believe there are ONLY TWO POLITICAL PARTIES, this country will be f'ed. Those in control have been there too long and need to be replaced. The problem is those two parties have all the money for running real political campaigns. If an independent or some other political party had the money to actually get their name out, AND (and a HUGE and) if the American people wouldn't just vote BASED ON A PARTY NAME, things in this country could be much better. As it is now, you have two real parties and one of them is basically given control of the congress and/or house so they can just push what bills they want out the door. IF American's would actually open up their mind and quit voting by party name, and IF we could get 4, 5, or 6 PARTIES into congress and house, thing would be less "This is what we (as in the controlling party) want, push it though!" to more checks and balances on the whole process. It wouldn't be a controlling group with the same ideas in charge, but a mix of ideas from a range of people.. and I have a feeling it would keep more crap like this from appearing, as well as cut back on all the bullshit tucked away in bills.
if it resides ON your head, they'll just pick the key up and use it.
Now, if it resides *IN* your head, then they'll just crack your head open, pick up the key and use it.
This isn't much different than using Bluetooth and the Ubuntu lock package.. you link your bluetooth device with the computer, and then if you're phone/bluetooth device is further away than a distance you set the computer goes into a screensaver lock. When the bluetooth device is within the proximity again, the screensaver unlocks and you can use the PC again.
Also, many companies and HUD housing little key ring RF devices that you run near a pad and the door unlocks/opens. Placing this chip into a phone isn't much different. Heck a lot of cars now use smartkeys that also use this method. Even home automation (for example Control4) has options for this as well that I believe can be linked to a phone also. I'm not sure what Apple is going to be able to patent in regard to this idea that hasn't already been patented, or isn't obvious to anyone in the field.
You're option #2 would still retain braking power IF it's the good old fashioned vacuum based breaking system. (Not, obviously, if it was an electronic brake booster). Your option #2 as stated leaves the car in gear, so the motor would lose electrical power, but would still physically be moving since it's in gear, still creating a vacuum allowing the vacuum based break booster to still function fine.
The ECU has a processor to read the inputs from more sensors than you'd think, and reference them across a map. For example, a 1997 Honda prelude the ECU reads both Oxygen sensors, the Manifold Absolute Pressure, air temperature, etc, etc and cross references off of a "grid" in the ECU to determine how long and hard to run the injectors as well as timing. There's also a time when the ECU runs right off of the sensors to determine in more of a real time when you're in WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Depending on the RPM's changes things a lot. If you're under around 2200 RPM's, there's a buttery fly valve in the first part of the intake piping that's closed to help lowered end torque, over 2200 the ECU opens the butterfly valve for more air. Once you hit about 4800 the ECU opens the secondary runners on the intake manifold that allows a shorter runner length increasing HP (both runners to each cylinder is used). Under 4800 the ECU closed the valves so only the longer runners are used, again increasing torque. Once you hit 5200 RPM, if the oil pressure is high enough, and the engine is warmed up enough, the ECU engages the VTEC solenoid which then uses oil pressure to basically "shoot a pin" to lock both intake and both exhaust valve lifters to a 3rd lifter that follows a more aggressive profile on the camshaft, increasing how long and far the valves open for increase high end horsepower. The ECU will also control many other things, such as the EGR valve, etc.
You also have the state where the ECU will trip into a limp mode. If a sensor fails or the ecu detects a severe error in the engine system, (pre-detonation, EGR, etc) the CEL (Check Engine Light) will kick on and actually BLINK at you. If it doesn't blink, it's not that bad of an issue, such as an oxygen sensor that the car can still run fine without by looking at the map in the ECU. But when it blinks because of a reading that's way off for the conditions the engine is in or some other reason, the ECU is programmed to dump fuel so the engine runs really rich (safer than running lean), limit the RPM's to about 3700 redline, and a few other things.
Now that's just for the ECU in an OBD-IIA car. There's much more going on in OBD-IIB cars, and the above doesn't include the SRS system, ABS system, Stability systems in SUV's, etc. Also, most cars now a days use a CANBUS (think ethernet network for lack of better terms) to interlink devices. In newer GM's there's a few functions in the radio that are controlled by the data flowing over the CANBUS (such as the dinger for your keys are still in the ignition, your lights are on, etc) as well as tach signals, diagnostic information, door lock controls, etc. It makes figuring out and fixing an issue much easier when you can just tap into a diagnostic port and see how the whole car is doing instead of certain components, as well as upgrading the flash when an issue is found. The downside is, such as the GM's, if you're car didn't come equipped with XM as a factory option, and you want to add either the factory XM or an aftermarket unit to the factory radio, you may have to go back to the dealership to have them actually ENABLE the ability to do so in the factory radio...
It wouldn't be hard for them to read the Throttle Position Sensor.. even a drive-by-wire car would have one of those, and if they see the throttle is wide open + you're braking to kill the motor, or have a stepped down rev limiter activate.
I do know, from rental car use, some cars won't allow you to rev the motor and shift into a gear. IIRC if it was a Corolla or Cavalier, or both, that did it, but if you sat in neutral and revved the motor, and tried shifting into D the ECU would actually cut power until the RPMs came down to a certain level and THEN the tranny would actually shift into gear
It would be even worse in a VW/Audi. I hate the setup they use for the ignition cylinder. If you were say suddenly doing 60+ MPH and you decided to turn the key off to kill power, if say you did need to turn the key back on to Ignition/Run for whatever reason (power steering, wheel position locked, etc), you can't just turn the key back to Ignition/Run, you must turn it all the way off, and THEN you can turn it to Ignition/Run
I read an interesting article in Alaska Magazine about a town up there where the temperature can hit -50 to -60 without wind, and any moisture instantly turns to little ice "cubes" (for lack of better terms). It basically looks like fog, but you can literally scoop it with a shovel. The article mentioned if you don't have a heated garage, you're pretty much stuck leaving your car running, because if you turn it off after a few hours you won't be able to get it started again it's that cold.
that's funny, because Road and Track listed some of the cars in the US with the highest millage, and of those drivers (one was a Volvo with over a million miles, and one was an Accord with over 750,000).. the drivers never really turned their cars off. For example, the Accord was owned by a guy who worked as a Meter Reader, and would leave his car idle as he walked around the houses. He said it was only ever really turned off for routine maintenance or when he was sleeping. I know my parents Accord has over 350,000 and runs great.. and it has a remote start that gets used quite often.
My father had the same attitude, until I installed one for him. After you have one, you'll regret ever having a car without one. It's also good for parents of young kids. It allows you to warm the car up (in a safer fashion than leaving the keys in it running) or cool the car down before putting an infant inside
seriously, guys... quit spouting this stuff out about something you obviously have no clue about. HE ALREADY HAS AN AFTER MARKET REMOTE START INSTALLED. All this is doing is sending the required NEGATIVE trigger to the remote start's neg activation input. THIS IS NO DIFFERENT THAN USING THE REMOTE STARTS REMOTE. The remote start is then activated, enabling whatever immobilizer bypass that was installed for the REMOTE START to work (Passkey III, PATS, VATS, MITS, etc). The car alarm WON'T go off as the remote start's factory alarm disarm output would pulse the car's DISARM wire, or some car's alarms disarm if you pulse the keysense wire, or when the correct IMMOB code is picked up, etc.
:)
Another thing, there are some remote starts designed for manual cars. You must put the ebrake on and release the foot brake while the car is running. Then you hit the remote start button on your remote, turn the key off, get out, close the door and press lock on the remote. The remote start then knows it's in neutral. If the door is open, key turned on, alarm trigger (if it's a unit with alarm + remote start features) etc the car WILL NOT REMOTE START. And again, this has nothing to do with what his guy did. He just found another way to activate the remote start. As for the starter engaging every 5 seconds.. there's obvious ways to stop this, and he EVEN TALKS about the way he did that in his blog thing.. which you apparently did not read before posting
uh... you don't have a clue what you're talking about do you? If someone dialed the wrong number, his car would start. Big deal. It's no different than if he had pressed the button on the remote start's remote. It would run for 12-24 minutes (depending on what it's set to) and shut off. I love the people who jump on the "OMG WHAT IF?!?!" and really don't have a clue what they are talking about :)
RAMBUS did the same as Nvidia, with RAMBUS RBRAM or whatever it was called found in Dell Pentium 4 (IIRC) PC's, etc. RAMBUS was faster memory at that type, but I haven't kept up with what they've produced since then and how to compares to the other options.
quite a few Dell PC's with Pentium 4's IIRC used RAMBUS
... until I use your time machine to go back in time to one year before you "invented" your time machine, showing up at the USPTO, and promptly filing a patent on the completed design.
I'd just like to add this was done in alice 2.2. Alice 3.0 is currently in beta but is underwritten by EA, and uses characters from the Sims 2. It's quite a bit nicer than the 2.2 release, which as you may notice in the youtube video, the export to video option doesn't keep the video and music completely in sync, and your graphics card + version of quicktime can affect it greatly.
Amazingly, you're only the second to recommend ALICE. It was what my teacher used in our problem solving and logic class (he knows some people at CMU who worked on it).
Alice is very object oriented, easy to pick up on yet can do some pretty cool things. Here's a quick class project I put together.. it's a demo I did for the class, and was put together within the first few hours of having ever touched alice. Doeasn't look like much but the behind the scenes code for the timining and all that is quite large.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65swK6i3HgE
There's a lot more demos of Alice projects on youtube as well