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Fixing That Old Game System
larsoncc writes "Emulation is a great way to preserve past game systems, but what if you could keep these digital dinosaurs running for decades? Well, you can, and some of us do. It's not easy for me to 'let go' of that vintage (circa 1978) Magnavox Odyssey2, or toss my Atari 7800 in the closet because I don't have a power supply. Here's my article to help you solve common problems with 15 different systems, and general tips for the others. Viva la TI-99/4a!!"
I dont even bother with reparing my old systesm I just emulate them.
I wish I had the games I wrote for my timex sinclier. That wher on cassete tape. and an emulator that would run them. I was so proud when I ran out of room in the 2K built in memory and had to attache the 16K ram expansion.
http://Lenny.com
Here is what I use: Windex, Radio Shack component cleaner and Q-tips. Windex for the exterior and the RS component cleaner for RF leads and cartridge contacts. Occasional Amour-All to give it a nice shine if you're gonna advertise it on eBay.
How do I fix my old PSX? My Original Playstation. I know the "turn upside down" trick...but for the life of me, I can't seem to find any place that sells laser assemblies anymore. If I ebay or froogle for it, all I get is tons and tons of stuff for the ps2.
Damn technology.
You're all bastards!
I really like one of his suggestions:
"Demo Discs (XBox Magazine) Don't Play - I wish I was joking about this, but here's the solution. Boil the disc for 20 seconds (or less). It actually works. I've tried it, and I swear on my life it works...[snip]"
I can realise how it might work, but I really have to wonder what was the motivation behind the guy who first discovered the procedure.
"YOU STUPID CD, WORK OR I SHALL BOIL THEE!"
My <1000 UID is with a hot chick
Google Cache link available without photos
Google Cache
Big Dig-ing until the money is gone...
You cant emulate the 'feel' of having the real thing in your hands.
Sure you get to run the *software*, but you lose everything that makes it special and worth saving.
Real history is lost when we lose the old classic hardware ( both games and computers ).
Really sad to see so many people that dont appreciate history for what it is, and consider it 'throwaway'.
---- Booth was a patriot ----
Mirror
"What if nobody's made an emulator for your favorite obscure system?"
There's not very many of these, although there are a few like the Jaguar that aren't emulated very well.
"What if the emulator doesn't play it right?"
Unless you're talking about the same few from the question above, you will find that most emulators play games perfectly down to the last pixel, and in some cases, they look a lot better (as is the case with the playstation games.)
"What if you want to use the original controller?"
They make adapters so you can use SNES, PSX, Genesis, N64, and other controller types, right on the USB port.
"What if you believe in respecting copyright law, no matter how ridiculous it may be?"
If you believe emulators themselves are breaking laws, well, go nuts I guess. But they aren't. Downloading ROMS of games you don't own is, but why said anything about that?
Lots of holes in your arguement, man.
Personally, I believe emulators will be the only way to preserve these games given enough time.
- It's not the Macs I hate. It's Digg users. -
Here's the coral cache link, and here's a list of the systems included in the article:
Odyssey^2
Atari 2600
Intellivision
Atari 7800
TI-99/4a
NES
Genesis
Sega CD
Turbo Grafx
Saturn
Dreamcast
PS2
XBox
GameCube
GameBoy Advance
Wow, I really could have used this information 20 years ago! I was devestated when the power supply to my TI-99/4a blew out from overheating, and lord knows those Odyssey2 joysticks weren't built to last. Actually, any information about repairing and replacing hard-wired peripherals would have been helpful back then.
One console that's missing from the list was an early console (does anyone remember the name?) that competed with the original Odyssey. It was the ultimate in hard-wired madness. All of its games were built-in, and were selectable with a sliding knob. It had two hardwired sliding-stick controllers, and possibly the first console lightgun, which was made of pig iron and weighed approximately 185 pounds. The monochromatic games were all variations on table tennis and "shoot the square". And yes, that used to be fun. :)
Anyway, the weak link in th C-64 was not the computer itself, but the power supply, which was separated. Since it was somewhat complicated (fully regulated) and encased in a solid black epoxy box, most people didn't bothered to fiddle with it. This site has the complete schematic for a power supply, from where you can either fix it or build a new one entirely.
Older gaming systems had very little power, so programmers would code the games in low-level machine language, and they would use many different hacks, tricks, and some games even time things based on counting CPU cycles and precise timing delays between different hardware subsystems. So it shouldn't be a surprise that games developed for these consoles play best on the original console.
The SNES is probably the best example of this because it was probably the most complicated and powerful game console, which was still programmed using low-level machine language. The aforementioned link describes inaccuracies in the best SNES emulator, ZSNES. Further comlicating matters is that some SNES games have separate co-processors built into the cartridge, and so the emulators must also emulate these separate processors, which have their own instruction set, protocol, timing delays, and communication bus. Since SNES games were written in assembler, developed soley for one fixed hardware platform, and then only tested on that system... it shouldn't be a surprise that the games play best on a real SNES.
Yet most gamers have never actually compared a real SNES to emulation. Some games are emulated better than others, but some are just downright bad. Of course, emulation is always improving, and in the distant future, when the real SNES's are all dust, emulation will be the only option. Hopefully it is perfected by then.
Of course, you can cheat and use a Flash Cart or Game Copier
(2), (3), with a real SNES, so that you get the best of both worlds: tons of SNES games on a real SNES with real SNES controllers all hooked up to a TV in front of a comy sofa!
The disk drives (1541 and 1581) were notorious for getting out of alignment. There was actually a small BASIC program written to help "knock" it back into alignment. You can see it on this page, near the bottom.
Despite the promises or anything you have heard, never, EVER use Armor All on a plastic or vinyl surface that is not already dried/perished/damaged. Armor All is very good at removing the native polymers in the plastic and replacing them with itself. Once it has made it into the surface, you will continually need to replenish the Armor All or risk losing the plastic. I have seen this product ruin more dashboards, tires, motorcycle seats, trim rubber and so on than I would care to recall.
If you want an Armor All type finish on your plastics, use a hand glaze or plastic dressing. These products are available from auto stores, and auto paint suppliers. Slightly off-topic: if you want your old car/cycle tires to look like new, use a little brake fluid on a rag.. works miracles.
There's a Starman, waiting in the sky / He'd like to come and meet us, but he hasn't got the time.
Where are all the replies complaining about this not being a news item that inexplicably get modded up?
Well, while blowing on a cartridge may seem to make it work, it's actually doing it more damage and will end up corroding the contacts. If you need to clean your games, try using a baby wipe - keeps my Mega Drive and SNES carts in fine order.
If you're still having problems with the NES, try either repairing or replacing the cartridge connection within the console. As you insert and remove games, the contacts slowly get bent out of position, until they eventally fail to touch the games when inserted. You can either bend the contacts carefully back into place, or buy a cheap (under £2, so I believe) replacement. Either way, enjoy your NES! (I was always a Master System player myself...)
And tomorrow the stock exchange will be the human race
Looks they can be purchased online here..
Yeah, there were games for it, but I've never seen a game console with a dot matrix printer and a 5.25" floppy drive. I also wrote some BASIC programs on it. I never did that with my Atari 2600. Yep, I had one. :P
The connector for the peripheral expansion box gave me worries when I had it. It was a thick sheilded ribbon cable with a heavy plastic connector hanging off the end of the keyboard. I think I used a chunk of wood to support it.
I do remember the video being horrible though. (the tip in the article is about the video). I even bought the TI brand monitor. I think it was a 13"?
Wow, you wrote a friggin essay on two words I used, "pixel perfect."
While, no, I have not studied an SNES game with a magnifying glass on both an emulator and then on the real console system, hell if I can tell a difference on the 100 or so games I own.
I can't tell the difference on the Genesis, NES, TB16, Atari 2600 - 7800's either.
So fine, maybe that wasn't the right word to use - so how about this: "Pixel 'I can't tell the fucking difference so it might as well be perfect to 99% of the people playing them.'" That work for you?
You also mentioned that "almost" all of the adapters for the SNES suck, well, that insinuates that SOME don't. Hey, I never said buy a shitty convertor.
" but if we all throw away the real thing too early, we will end up with subpar emulation that isn't as good as the real thing. "
I didn't say we should. But these systems WILL die out, some day. You won't be able to get them easily, the games won't work, etc.. And even if you could, who cares? If emulation is as good as it is with some game systems, I don't see the point. Why would I have 12 game systems all wired up in a big mess to my TV when I could just run them all on a single XBox or PC?
And, I don't know too many people that play SNES games all day long anymore. It's usually every once in awhile to play a few of their favorites for a little while, then it's back to the Doom 3's, Far Cry's, and Everquests.
- It's not the Macs I hate. It's Digg users. -
Actually there was a trick where if you insert the game in the slot, and slide it as far to the left as possible before pressing it down... you will get the game to work without blowing. I don't know who started that blowing idea, but trust me... dust has nothing to do with it.
Anyone who would do this instead of emulating or contributing to the (largely open source) emulator community is missing alot of things about how fun classic gaming has become.
Alot of people have trouble setting up emulators. This is due to the fact that most games play much better with 3rd party plugins than the original included plugins. Do a little research, or just try this:
Get yourself a boat load of roms. (shareaza, irc, google, there are ways). Then install zsnes, set the video to 1024x768 and turn on hq3x.
This improves the playability of old snes roms so much that it is amazing. Especially with a high quality usb controller (i like the saitek p2500), and a projector. Mario is over a foot tall and not jaggy at all! People come to my house ALL THE TIME, just to play dr. mario with foot long pills.
Another big favorite is mortal kombat 4 (n64 edition) on 1964 with the jabo video plugin, at 1024x768, with 8x AA and 8x ansio enabled. The people are nearly as tall as real people and their blood sprays all over the room.
Another key element is a good little surround sound system. I like the logitech z640 set of speakers and a cheap audigy, but there are other options.
It's cool to restore old consoles as a hobby, but for raw playability and user experience, a kick ass PC set up right with a projector and wireless gamepads, seriously takes it. None of my friends even play their xbox/ps2/gamecube anymore! (They do play vice city ALOT on this particular pc setup, can't wait for the pc version of san andreas!!!)
rhY
I hold very few opinions. I hold information based on observation and fact. If you wish to disagree, please use facts.
And on the flipside.. emulation is sometimes better, at least in my opinion.
My PS2 dualshock controller with USB adaptor is more comfortable in my hands then any older controllers. With video filters like SuperEagle, many games look much better without losing their charm. The ability to save anytime is a massive improvement to many games (sure you can abuse it to beat any game easily, but thats a choice), good bye long winded code inputs. Built in gameshark support with downloadable codes.. Some emulators even have half way decent online functionality..
The article's section on the NES mentions the "Blinkies" ("You put the game in, turn your Nintendo on, and the screen alternates between blue and white.") but doesn't explain the real reason why this is happening: the original NES has a lockout chip to prevent people from playing unlicensed/third-party games on the system. When a game blinks, but you can still see the game's title screen in between each blink, it's because the lockout chip is freaking out.
Fortunately, there's a very easy mod to disable the lockout chip by opening the NES up and cutting a pin on the PCB. It used to be really easy to find the mod on Google, but it seems to have disappeared (could Nintendo's legal department have squashed it? That'd be ridiculous if so, this is well within fair use). Regardless, you can get it at archive.org -- I'm pretty sure that's the how-to file I used when I did the mod a few years back. It worked like a charm, and I highly recommend it!
Blow on the cartridge.
Failing that, blow in the console.
I didn't say Slashdot newbie, I said Internet.
I think newbie is a state of mind.
- It's not the Macs I hate. It's Digg users. -
I used to always put my cartridge in the game genie and plug it in. Almost always worked. Then this summer in order to use my friends we had to put the cartridge in just far enough so the top of the cart would scrape the nes as we pushed it down.
One of the things I've found a bit interesting is how awful some older games look on a VGA/SVGA or higher resolution display that were designed with TV monitors in mind.
I fondly remember games on my 2600 and C64 that looked cool, but when seeing them on a high res monitor they looked like crap (emulator also).
It seems many designers back then took into account the low resolution nature of monitors and low scan rates to kind of use a natural form of anti-aliasing.
So when using that emulator of old games be sure to lower your monitor refresh rate (if possible) to what the game was originally ment to play under and it will look as you remember it!
I'm a big fan of the SOYO Kiky X-Series USB adapter. It works in Linux, Windows and MacOS X, and has allowed me to use the PSX pads I like with my games.
--
Me spell chucker work grate. Need grandma chicken.
Trust me, get to really playing and the 7800's controllers wear out fast. The problem is poor design: There's a small piece of very cheap plastic at the base of the Joystick shaft that circles the shaft and is needed for the Stick's contacts to connect. The plastic would wear down long before the contacts, keeping them from getting pressed. This is in addition to the fact that the 7800 joystick was _really_ uncomfortable after an hour or so. The best joystick ever, to this day, is the Epyx 500xj. Solid metal shaft, durable clicking switches. Great for 2600 games but I don't think it was 7800 compatible. If it was, I had long since got rid of my 7800 by then.
The trouble with the 5200 controllers wasn't durability, it was that they where analog, and all the 5200 games where designed for digital control. An analog joystick isn't the best choice for pac-man...
Hi! I make Firefox Plug-ins. Check 'em out @ https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/youtube-mp3-podcaster/
One key universal fixit that I didn't see mentioned is to reseat the socketed chips. I've fixed so many old systems by applying a little force to socketed chips until they "crunch".
A few other tips:
Always unplug power supplies when they're not in use. It says this in the old manuals, and my experience is that it dramatically increases the life of the supply.
Also, since I deal the most with the Atari 2600, a common problem is that the switches start getting sketchy. This is usually that the solder joints have cracked (which can be fixed by just re-heating them with a soldering iron) or just that the switches need a little contact cleaner sprayed in them. And the paddle controllers almost always need their pots sprayed with contact/tuner cleaner.
It's amazing how well those old systems hold up if you take good care of them.
-paul
I only read the first paragraph and already disagree..
Battery corrosion can and must be cleaned up.
Yes you need an acid. But this does not sound as bad as it looks.
Vinager wil do the job.. I neutralised some battery-corroded cpu boards of 25 year old pinball machines this way.. www.marvin3m.com/fix.htm explains how to deal with battery corrosion.
Leaving the problem like the author suggests is the worst thing you can do ! Because battery corrosion just keeps on burning and traveling over pcb's and if you wait long enough, nothing will survive anymore. It can even travel through connectors and wires and attack other pcb's which are connected to it.
I recently fixed a pinball cpu with battery corrosion.. bought the game cheap, 'it always worked and stopped working one day'
the cpu looked ok, no obvious signs (green color) of leakage, battery had even be removed in the past..
however 2 ic sockets didn't make any contact at all anymore.
So my guess is that the battery had leaked and it had been cleaned off but not really neutralised, and the stuff that got under the ic's kept burning away..
Learn about pinball machines on www.flippers.be
It had tracks written deliberately out of alignment - track 0 and 1 (iirc) were written very "broad" so any drive would read it, then the subsequent tracks were written "too far in" gradually moving into correct alignment, then going "too far out". So - you put the disk in, it would boot, upload special firmware to the drive, then it would step through the disk counting which tracks gave it the "best" read (least CRC errors).
Then - and this is the truly horrifying bit - it would gently wind the head all the way to one end, and then very, very quickly slam it into the other end stop. It would do this a few times, then read the alignment tracks again, then slam the head a few times, then reread the alignment tracks... and so on, until the head was absolutely bang on centred.
The guy I worked with told me to never, ever, *ever* run that disk with a customer in the shop...
For more details about how to clean your NES without a cleaning kit, I wrote up a set of instructions back in college: How to Clean your NES and Games.
Alex.