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Low Voltage Power Distribution?

thesp asks: "As I look around my apartment, I am continually struck by the plethora of high-voltage AC to low-voltage DC power adapters I use to power my various devices. At a recent estimate, around 30% of the power consumed in my house is via these adapters. From my laptop to my digital music player, and from my mobile telephone to my PDA, each device is down-converting its own power through its own adapter. Double this number to include my partner's devices. Many of these run hot, and are inconvenient to remove/replug to conserve power and outlets. Does Slashdot know of any moves to standardize power delivery to such devices, or of hobby/home-brew projects to distribute low-voltage power from a central power converter? Alternatively, are there reasons as to why this would not be a simple and effective solution to the proliferation of wall-warts." "On closer examination, these adapters seem to fall into four major categories, 7V, 5V and 3V, with the most common being 5V. Despite this, each device uses a different DC plug configuration, which makes efficient use of adapters difficult. It seems to me that, just as AC power is standardised, portable electronics power requirements should be also be standardised, with a standard wall outlet and car outlet at, say, 5V, and a standard device cable and interface. Electronics manufacturers would save money on power adapters, and the consumer would have the cost of the converter written in to home construction or automobile construction costs. No longer would we have to lug 4 separate power adapters with us on an overnight business stay to power our various equipment."

40 of 237 comments (clear)

  1. Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by TripMaster+Monkey · · Score: 4, Informative


    Article is a dupe...original discussion can be found here, which amusingly enough, is itself a dupe of this discussion. Even more amusing is the fact that all of these submissions share the same editor.

    Way to go, Cliff...a dupe hat trick. Zonk has nothing on you.

    --
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    ~ |rip/\/\aster /\/\onkey

    1. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by pjotrb123 · · Score: 5, Insightful

      On Topic:

      Just about every device needs power in the 5 to 20 volt DC range to operate. No matter if it is 25 days old, or 25 years old.
      In the old days there was a transformer and an AC/DC rig to achieve this. And a big fat Power switch, to connect the transformer to the high voltage AC supply.
      This used to be all built into the device - think: big old fat radio, stereo, or TV. Because it was easy and convenient, because it was a big fat apparatus anyway.

      And ON really meant ON, and OFF meant OFF.

      Then came Stand-by mode. OFF suddenly meant: a little bit ON.
      Goodbye to the big fat Power switch. Enter the apparatus that consumes power all day long.

      Then, everything started shrinking, to become portable, "personal", etc.
      So now we have the i-Pod, mobile phone, MP3 player, laptop computer, Discman, PDA, GPS. "We" want to take them wherever we go, so they have to be light, Battery powered, nobody wants a big heavy transformer inside of course. Enter thousands of battery chargers. And because we are lazy, we keep the chargers plugged in, all year long.

      It's a trend. Not one that I necessarily like.

      Why are there no chargers that we can keep plugged in, with true mechanical ON/OFF switches?

      --
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    2. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by Ossifer · · Score: 2, Insightful

      So did any of these prior discussions come up with any useful results?

    3. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by Jozer99 · · Score: 5, Insightful

      The problem is that wires have resistance, which wastes power turning it into heat.  The amount of power wasted follows this equation

      % Power loss = Power * Resistance / Voltage Squared

      So, with a length of wire that has a resistance of 10 Ohm, with 120V at 1 amp (120W), you lose

      %P = 120W * 10 Ohm / 120V^2

      or 8.3% of the total power, about 10W.

      If you were to run the same amount of power over a 5V line (120W, or 24A), you would lose

      %P = 120W * 10 Ohm / 5V^2

      or a whopping 48% of your power, about 58 Watts.  So you see, having all those transformers is actually more efficient.  This is the reason why we have high voltage lines.  The power that comes into your house is 120V, but if it were to be 120V all the way from the power plant 20 miles away, most of the power would be lost.  So, power is sent on high tension wire at about 200,000V, then steped down to several thousand volts on main streets, then to less than 1,000V for your side street, then finally transformed down to 120V (or 240V if you live in some countries) right before it goes to your house.  This minimizes loss.

      On the other hand, if you have lots of devices that all use the same voltages right next to eachother, it can be efficient to get a single transformer.  Musicians (like me), who have dozens of effects pedals that run on 9V, can buy special power bricks that power up to 6 devices.  You can buy these from musician's supply stores (like musiciansfriend.com).  You can even make one from parts at radioshack.  You have to make sure you have a beefy transformer, then wire on several plugs in parallel.

      If you want more info about power line waste, there is good info at:
      http://www.bsharp.org/physics/stuff/xmission. html

    4. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by mysidia · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Ok, that's all well and good, but why not use a higher voltage DC to the outlet then? Say 50-100 volts.

      Perform this conversion where service enters, along with stabilizing the power, filtering any noise, to protect sensitive electronics, etc, the resistance down the household wiring should be low enough that the heat waste on the wire is small, so that the convenience matters, and high voltage offers some flexibility.

      Then have each kind of wall outlet include components to reduce the voltage to fit the requirements of the device that will be hooked into it; or have the device contain a simpler adapter to regulate the voltage down from the standard high voltage.

      I.E. you might have a plate on your wall that has a few generic sort of connector ports, such that the plate is designed to plug a whole outlet panel into. And the kind of panel/faceplate you choose to plug in determines how many ports you get and what voltage and amperage each port is allowed.

      In theory, you might even have a protocol for the device to signal the modular port to tell it what voltage to use. (The outlet detects when a device has initially been plugged into it and starts at a standard 3v, until the device confirms a voltage change or requests the outlet be turned off for a certain duration, or something like that)

      The cost of transformers may be cheap, but once you've got hundreds of devices that have to use them, because almost everything requires DC, it seems like a huge waste --- not necessarily so much of electricity, but of the natural resources and work required to build the devices.

    5. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by mysidia · · Score: 2, Insightful

      AC and DC have different characteristics, too. Depending on the properties of the wire, the same piece of wire may have a noticeably higher resistance when AC flows through it than that some wire would have when AC were flowing through it, because high frequencies of AC avoid travel through most of the wire's cross-sectional area. This can be a substantial increase in resistance, one disadvantage of using AC.

      See Wikipedia: Skin Effect

    6. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by Hardwyred · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Plus, 120V AC current, if you get shocked, hurts like a B#TCH, but just leaves your ego bruised. 120V DC current will instantly cause your heart to stop
      actually that is not entirely correct. 10ma of current across your heart period will cause serious issues be it DC or AC. In fact, DC is actually safer then AC when it comes to turning yourself into a light bulb. When the power grid was first being created, DC proponents used to fry small animals to prove that AC was unsafe while DC would do no damage. Granted, a DC power grid would need a power generation station almost every 3 blocks.
      As a side, don't be fooled, 110v AC can kill you dead just like 400v AC can. It's all about your bodies internal resistance mostly due to moisture and the path the power takes.

      --
      www.linux-skunkworks.com
    7. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by Lewie · · Score: 2, Informative

      It is easy to change high voltage AC into low voltage DC with relatively high efficiency (70-80%). It is VERY hard to change the voltage of DC with high efficiecy, (like 30%). So you end up wasting lots of power that way.

      You have got that backwards. It's hard and expensive to change 120 down to low voltage DC with any decent efficiency, whereas efficient (>90%) DC-to-DC is cheap and straightforward. Transformers are expensive, as are high-voltage rated components.

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    8. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by RzUpAnmsCwrds · · Score: 3, Informative

      It is VERY hard to change the voltage of DC with high efficiecy

      Not true. DC-DC converters have existed for years, and they are highly efficient. Take, for example, the DC-DC convertor on your motherboard - if it were only 30% efficient, it would be dissipating more heat than the CPU. Fortunately, DC-DC converters are generally closer to 90-95% efficient.

      Take, for example, the picoPSU - it outputs 120W at various voltages (from a DC source) and it doesn't even have a heatsink.

    9. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by AaronLawrence · · Score: 2, Insightful

      It's the current that kills you not the voltage
      Pardon me, but saying something like this just makes you sound ignorant.
      It's not like you can a current "by itself". It's directly related to voltage. The higher the voltage, the more current will flow through a given resistance. So, arguing which one of the two kills you is like saying that the speed of a car hitting you doesn't matter, it's the weight.

      --
      For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert. - Arthur C. Clarke
    10. Re:Low Voltage DUPE distribution? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 2, Informative

      Fortunately, DC-DC converters are generally closer to 90-95% efficient.

      At the EXACT current output they were designed for.

      Sure, you can get tons of efficiency if you're designing with a known load that doesn't vary too much. This is not the siutation we're talking about here. One minute you might be drawing 10mA, the next minute you might want 10 A, the supply is not going to maintain 95% efficiency over that range and maintain a reasonable cost.

      --
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  2. Ohm's law by s800 · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Good luck distributing 5Vdc over any distance.

    1. Re:Ohm's law by toddbu · · Score: 5, Informative
      What distance? A few hundred feet throughout the house? The loss would be neglegible over that distance.

      Depends on your current draw. Check out this table. Remember that by time you wire your entire house, there will be several hundred feet of wire.

      There's a reason we feed houses with AC.

      --
      If you don't want crime to pay, let the government run it.
    2. Re:Ohm's law by Mattcelt · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I don't know - according to the chart, a #10 (6mm^2) wire (which, while by A/C standards is huge, isn't really that big at all) will get you 216 feet at 10 amps. Most of the DC devices we use wall-warts for an average of no more than 1 to 1.5 amps, so you could theoretically wire a room for low-amp DC with a single cord.

      If you wire your house intelligently - converting your A/C to D/C in a central location and radiating each a line to each room from there - only very large houses will have a throw distance of more than 200 feet. (Remember that the chart accomodates the return trip already.) This makes using D/C internally seems like a very feasable proposition.

      I think the biggest pitfall is making sure you don't deliver too much (or little) current to the devices you plug in. It would be very bad to deliver 10 amps to a device which is expecting 300 milliamps, or 300mA to a device expecting 2A.

      There's a reason we feed A/C to houses. That's not the same reason we feed A/C within houses.

    3. Re:Ohm's law by stoborrobots · · Score: 2, Informative

      ... according to the chart, a #10 (6mm^2) wire (which, while by A/C standards is huge, isn't really that big at all) will get you 216 feet at 10 amps.

      You might note that that applies at 120 Volts, not 12V - at the lower voltage your #10 gets you a whopping 22 feet. For 200 feet at 12V you need 1/0 gauge wire, which is ten times the cross-section, and three-and-a-half times the diameter...

      Again, not huge in real-world terms, but bigger than you imagine...

      I think the biggest pitfall is making sure you don't deliver too much (or little) current to the devices you plug in. It would be very bad to deliver 10 amps to a device which is expecting 300 milliamps, or 300mA to a device expecting 2A.

      And thus your power source would be a fixed-voltage source, not a fixed current one. Technically, only raw components need to be protected from over-current situations - any (properly-designed) circuit should account for the max current going across any component within it, and prevent it from going overspec. Consider that most wall-warts do not limit the current being drawn from it - draw enough current, and you'll simply make the adapter overheat and melt down.

  3. IMHO, USB will become the de facto power standard. by WoTG · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Just a hunch, but my best guess is that we will slowly see the USB power "feature" become the standard for (very) lower power devices. You can already find cell phones, mp3 players, cameras, PDA's and a few misc. accessories that are USB powered - and I've seen USB "power only" hubs available for charging these devices while you're on vacation.

    The natural next step is for more devices to switch to USB power. Routers and hubs and other things that are typically "near" a computer come to mind.

  4. A few reasons... by Tyler+Eaves · · Score: 3, Informative

    1. You can't (simply) transform DC voltage to a different voltage. This can be done very efficiently with AC. The 120v to 5V (or whatever) in your power supply is done before the AC is rectified to DC.

    2. Low voltage == High losses, esp. with DC.

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    1. Re:A few reasons... by amorsen · · Score: 2, Informative
      You can't (simply) transform DC voltage to a different voltage.

      Actually transforming DC is way cheaper and more efficient than transforming AC...

      The 120v to 5V (or whatever) in your power supply is done before the AC is rectified to DC.

      The 120V to 5V transformation is done by treating the AC as a fluctuating DC signal, and doing DC conversion. It is less efficient than proper DC to DC conversion, but not much, and it's way more efficient than using a traditional transformer.

      It would be very nice to have say 48V DC around the house. Devices could easily have 48V to 5V or whatever switching supplies built in -- they would be small enough and give off so little heat that they could be inside the box instead of being wall-warts.

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    2. Re:A few reasons... by cr0z01d · · Score: 2, Informative

      1. Yes, you can simply transform DC voltages to different voltages. They're called switching power supplies, and you find them EVERYWHERE. You get them off the shelf or build your own, they're cheap, they're light, and they're efficient (90% is not uncommon). Your computer does NOT step down AC to a low voltage then rectify it... it rectifies it to high voltage DC, then steps it down.

      2. Losses have nothing to do with AC or DC, it's just a function of current.

      Let's say you've got 12 AWG wire in your house (not uncommon). Resistance is .00187 ohm per foot. Let's further say you're running 5VDC across it, and the wire distance to transformer is 50 feet. A short circuit would suck:

      (5 V)**2 / (.00187 ohm/ft * 50 ft) = 267 W

      Divide this by two to get the maximum power draw from a device: 133W. Sounds like a lot of headroom, but at that point half your electric bill is going to heating the wires! This is why we have high voltage distribution systems.

      On the other hand, I would like to see cool medium-high voltage DC distribution systems in the home. This would reduce the complexity of power supplies in our electronics: instead of having power drop out 60 times a second, they see 200VDC or something.

    3. Re:A few reasons... by plcurechax · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Grandparent comment: You can't (simply) transform DC voltage to a different voltage.

      Parent comment: Actually transforming DC is way cheaper and more efficient than transforming AC...

      You can simply transform AC voltage using the simple and low-tech electronic device called a transformer. Just a bounce of wire wound a metal core.

      I assume you are referring to solid state DC-DC converters which can be (far) more efficient (less waste, less heat) than a linear power convert, but they are not simplier.

      Distribution to businesses and houses will remain AC because AC is easier to distribute over long distance. High power (wattage) is easier (more efficient) to distribute (power transmission) with a high AC voltage than high voltage DC. This goes back to the famouse Edision vs. Telsa fight over DC / AC power distribution near the previous turn of the century.

      It is possible to distribute low voltage AC (say 12 VAC) within a house for electronic usage. Using high efficiency power supplies (i.e.: don't waste a lot of engery producing wasted heat as a by-product of the conversion process) such as found in newer laptop power supplies would be another positive step. Otherwise I don't know if we'll see the elimimation of inefficient wall-warts.

      To the submitter: Don't forget about electric applicants that are high power (e.g. 1000W or higher), in my case that includes: electric force air heating, electric stove (aka range/oven) for cooking, air conditioning, refridgerator, microwave, toaster, hair dryer, and coffee maker. These devices would not work (easily) at a lower voltage without a large increase of current. Remember or learn Ohm's Law: Power (Watts) = Voltage (Volts) times Current (Amperes).

    4. Re:A few reasons... by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 2, Informative

      AC transformers are even more efficient than DC-DC converters, 99%+ efficient is not uncommon. 90% efficiency on DC is available, but for the cut-throat consumer electronics market, the extra cost means that they go with cheaper units with maybe 70% efficiency.

      There are still some nearly unsolvable problems with higher voltage DC as a distribution system. For one, arcs start easier on a 48VDC system, and arcs are harder to break because current can just follow the ionized trail and is easily sustained. This causes a safety issue, and is one reason why few autos have a 48VDC system.

      Incidental arcs with AC systems are easily broken and die automatically because the current goes to zero, breaking the current and the ionized path disperses too quickly for the reverse current to travel through it.

  5. Re:A real problem by drinkypoo · · Score: 2, Informative

    Actually, while there is no standard, I've definitely noticed that manufacturers are tending to use the same kind of plugs for the same voltages more and more. It seems like everything I've got that's 12VDC has the same plug, and I really mean everything, from my Radio Shack A/V transmitter unit, to the Intel webcam (from long long ago) that I connected to it, it's all the same size barrel connector. Obviously it's not standard but it's getting better.

    --
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  6. High voltage by JFbasta · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Power is transported at high voltage to diminish losses in cables, any long-range transportation with low voltage is inherently lossy.

    1. Re:High voltage by ralphclark · · Score: 2, Informative

      Let:

      P = power dissipation
      I = current
      R = resistance
      V = potential difference (voltage)

      We know that power is a function of power and current. For direct current,

      (1) P = V * I

      By Ohm's Law,

      (2) V = I * R

      Therefore

      (3) P = I ** R

      So power dissipation is proportional to the square of the current. Given a requirement to deliver some arbitrary amount of usable power to the devices you have plugged in, by (1) you know that if you halve the voltage you must double the current to deliver the same amount of power. But, by (3) you also know that if you double the current you square the power dissipated by the resistance in the cabling. Hence if you step down from say 120V to 12V, you must deliver ten times the current and hence power losses are multiplied by a factor of 100.

      This still wouldn't amount to much in reality as the sort of devices you're talking about are generally rated between 1-10W and therefore you're only delivering current on the order of an Ampere or two per device. Plus of course the resistance in your domestic cabling should be absolutely negligible.

      However, it does explain why the power companies use high tension power lines (tens or hundreds of kilovolts) to transport electricity over long distances. Imagine the amount of current these things carry. When they step the voltage up by a factor of a thousand, the power loss due to resistance in the cables (and over hundreds of miles it'll be a lot) is reduced to a millionth of what it would be if transported at domestic voltage.

  7. Standardised DC Power by nathanh · · Score: 2, Interesting
    It seems to me that, just as AC power is standardised, portable electronics power requirements should be also be standardised, with a standard wall outlet and car outlet at, say, 5V, and a standard device cable and interface.

    The 12VDC cigarette lighter plug is a de-facto standard. Redo all your devices to use 12VDC with a simple voltage leveller - eg, a zener diode followed by a 5V regulator IC - and then standardise on cigarette lighter sockets throughout the house.

  8. I'd gladly settle for.. by murderlegendre · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Standardized connectors. It's one thing to have a variety of devices that use different voltages, but having a variety of 5V devices each of which uses its own style of plug & jack defies all common sense.

    For that matter, even on devices that use the same voltages and connectors, there is no standardization for polarity! Is it really that difficult to agree that ring is negative, and tip is positive, or even vice-versa?

    Adaptor lock-in is just plain obnoxious.

    --
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  9. Multiphase power by KonoWatakushi · · Score: 2, Insightful
    As others have mentioned, DC is simply not a good alternative as you need very large conductors to make losses reasonable. This being the case, the best alternative would probably be 3-phase power.

    3-phase AC is much more easily converted to DC, and also allows for simpler and more efficient motors. (So it is also ideal for things like air conditioners, refrigerators, furnaces, and such.) Overall, I think the advantages far outweigh the cost of an extra conductor, and it is unfortunate that it isn't more common outside of commercial settings.

    1. Re:Multiphase power by Skapare · · Score: 2, Informative

      DC does not require any larger conductors than AC does, for the same voltage and current. You must be assuming low voltage in reference to DC.

      Three phase is only marginally better than single phase for converting AC to DC. And unless the power supply is a very complex and expensive type, it will result in a high level of harmonics and a low power factor on the AC source due to the rectification cycles. On a large scale this could also overload the neutral conductor.

      Three phase is generally good for motors only above the 1 horsepower level. Many home appliances would not benefit from it. A few might (the big ones), but not all areas get three phase power, so the dominant appliance products use single phase power.

      --
      now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
  10. Cable thickness by slavemowgli · · Score: 2, Interesting

    IANAP, and I'm not good with anything hardware-related, but... isn't one of the reasons that you'd need thicker cables for lower voltages? When the voltage goes down, the current goes up, and thinner cables would melt. I distinctly remember being told that that's at least part of the reason why long-distance power cables uses voltages in the hundreds of kV range.

    There's also neat experiments you can do in school with transformators - put a coil with, say, 5000 windings opposite of one with, say, 5, and you'll be able to quite literally melt nails. :) (Of course, don't do this at home, at least not until you know what you're doing and how to do it safely.)

    --
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  11. Issues in low voltage power distribution by Skapare · · Score: 2, Informative
    There certainly are some difficulties:
    1. There are a lot of different voltage needs I have seen, including: 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v, 10v, 10.5v, 12v, 14v, 15v, 16v, and 18v. Some things need (or can accept) AC, others need DC (some can take it filtered while most want reasonably smooth). It would be nice if the voltages were better standardized, but this is not always an option. And often where it is an option, it ends up being traded off with a loss in efficiency.
    2. Voltage drop is more dramatic at lower voltages. Given a specific current and a specific wire resistance, the voltage drop is a constant. Home wiring typically sees voltage drops in the range of 2 to 3 volts with high current loads, which is not much of an issue with 120 volts (less so with 230 volts). But at even 12 volts, that's a rather dramatic drop in voltage.
    3. For the same amount of power, devices at lower voltage use more current, which means even more voltage drop.
    4. Fault current can be an issue. If you have a lot of devices, the total current you might need could be very high. A power supply would need to deliver such current. A short circuit on a high current source can result in significant damage to everything from the power supply to the house. Surely you would fuse protect each branch circuit. The small "wall wart" power supplies have very small fault current as seen by the small arc if you short them out (don't try this at risk of blowing a tiny fuse they may have inside). But a power supply that can deliver 25 amps to a normal load can deliver much more than that under a short circuit condition, resulting in damaging arcs.
    5. A central power supply (or transformer if AC is all you need) is going to have its own level of power waste, anyway. While it can probably be designed with better efficiency, it won't really make up for what's lost in the wiring.

    If you have a cluster of devices of all the same voltage at the same location, then it would make sense to have a common power supply. Otherwise, it makes more sense to use a higher voltage for distribution purposes. The electric utility generally brings power down to your street in the 11kv to 14kv range, and a permanent transformer drops it down to the 120 to 240 volt range you get into your home. Distributing power at 240 volts would not even be considered beyond at most 100 to 200 meters. Every time the voltage goes up by 2, the distant can go up by 4 since the current is cut in half, which means the voltage drop is cut in half, which has even less effect on twice the voltage. When they run the voltage at 50 to 100 times as much, they can deliver power over substantial distances. Cutting voltage to 1/10 as much means you can deliver the same amount power to only 1/100 the distance.

    Incandescent lights actually work better at lower voltage, especially for bulbs of lower wattage. Normally a low wattage bulb requires greater resistance in the filament. That means the filament must be longer and/or thinner. That means it is more prone to mechanical shock damage. It also has to run at a lower temperature, producing a more orange light (which in some cases is what is desired). The lower temperature wastes power since more is emitted as infrared instead of usable light. By changing the bulb design to a low voltage like 12 volts, the same power level can have a shorter, thicker, hotter filament, which can run more efficiently, even making up for the loss involved in having a transformer converting the voltage.

    The reason I mention low voltage lights is to point out that they are rather standard at 12 volts (a few use 24 volts), yet transformers are generally located close to where the lights are, rather than in a central location which would require the power be distributed in low voltage form. If a central low voltage source were practical, low voltage lighting would be the first to use it. But with very few exceptions, they don't do it this way.

    I once considered running lots of stuff in my house on lo

    --
    now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
  12. Re:Surety you crave! Reality gives you none! by An+Onerous+Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    Yeah, standardization is just a Satanic conspiracy.

    Like that one time, Satan decided that all railroad tracks should be the same distance apart, so that every train could work on every track, so people would ride around on the trains, which sucked out their immortal souls.

    Oh, and then they standardized screws and bolts, so that you didn't need to carry around one screwdriver for each screw manufacturer, which put some screwdriver makers out of business. Their children were thrown out to starve in the streets. Satan watched, and he laughed.

    And home power standardized on 120V AC, so that everyone could plug their computers in anywhere, allowing Satan to tempt everyone with porn.

    Don't even get me started on what Satan thinks of the USB 2.0 interface.

    --

    You want the truthiness? You can't handle the truthiness!

  13. The Pessimist by Midnight+Warrior · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Have we all forgotten what companies charge for $2 wall warts? I've even seen a Brother label maker wall adapter that has an odd voltage (7.3v), odd amperage, a non-uniform center pin, and inverse polarity. They go overboard with the accessory business. This particular wall wart costs $24 at OfficeMax. Then another $18 for the label cartriges. Then there are the power-hungry devices like cameras that don't come with a wall wart at all (computer controlled, time interval shots). Us mere mortals have to guess when we go down to the store what size connector to use. Face it, the money is in the connectors. If they can find a cheap way to make you use a new connector and charge outrageous amounts of money for adapters, they will. Cheer up. Atleast your iPod doesn't have any custom connector on it. Oh, wait. Never mind.

    So maybe a better solution would be a single brick with different connectors for different voltages - this would conform to ISO standards. Then they could just pull the old printer "this box contains no cables" trick, and it would reduce the number of unused transformers out there eating away at copper supplies.

  14. Not for the house, but maybe for the rack by siegesama · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I've been considering this since the last time this was on slashdot. While over any real distance DC is inefficient for power transmission, the inside of a rack might benefit. I figure with a large UPS and some sort of redundant power-supply, you could feed a number of computers with 12V lines and a picoPSU-120 12V DC-DC ATX power supply. Has anyone tried this yet? I've never worked with high-density hardware (like blades) but I'd imagine that each blade is certainly not using its own PSU.

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    1. Re:Not for the house, but maybe for the rack by scheme · · Score: 2, Informative
      I figure with a large UPS and some sort of redundant power-supply, you could feed a number of computers with 12V lines and a picoPSU-120 12V DC-DC ATX power supply. Has anyone tried this yet? I've never worked with high-density hardware (like blades) but I'd imagine that each blade is certainly not using its own PSU.

      Check out the specs on telco equipment. A lot of them run on 48 vdc with special 48vdc power supplies. You can get a lot of networking gear that come with 48vdc power supplies. I think there are probably computers that have the same ability.

      Of course this is all pretty expensive since it's intended for telco companies.

      --
      "When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it
  15. A proposal for 48V distribution by Anomalous+Poltroon · · Score: 2, Insightful
    I would like to propose that we extend the work that has been done for Power over Ethernet (IEEE 802.3af) to higher power levels for consumer electric products.

    As some may know, this standard provides for approximately 15W of power at a nominal 48V. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet for an introduction.

    We can reuse and/or extend the probe/negotiation phase to provide additional power levels, let's say up to 150W (approximately 4A max).

    Advantages

    1. Enhanced safety because unused outlets provide a high-impedance (power-limited) source
    2. Unified power connector for low-voltage/low-power appliances
    3. DC outlets could be provided either through centralized power controllers, plug-in power strips, or wall-box mounted controllers

    Disadvantages

    1. Power controllers will always waste power
    2. Centralized power controllers will require point-to-point wiring
    3. Significant additional component cost compared to linear regulators
    4. Modest additional component cost compared to DC/DC regulators

    Some device manufacturers won't want to support this because it would increase the size of the in-device charge controller. For example, I have an iPod, a Treo, and a Bluetooth headset. All support a wide range of input voltages for charging (this implies an internal DC/DC regulator), but none support an input voltage higher than approximately 15V. Designing a DC/DC regulator that supports 48V requires more robust (therefore larger) components. In addition there will be an in-device power controller to communicate with the central power controller. Fortunately this last part is already available for 802.3af applications.

    You heard it here first.

  16. My own centralization attempt by jolshefsky · · Score: 3, Interesting
    I've got a Kill-A-Watt tester and I thought the same thing about my wall-warts for things like USB hubs, my PDA charger, cell-phone charger, etc. I plugged them all into a power strip and they use 16 watts total. I then wired up an empty PC case with a switching supply to power most of the devices. I just used diodes to drop 0.6V at a time from the various taps (12V, 5V) to get to the levels I needed for the oddball devices (the few that need something other than 12V or 5V).

    I wired it all up and: 16 watts again.

    It was exactly the same between using all the individual supplies and using the centralized PC supply. Admittedly, 16 watts isn't exactly ideal for a 90-watt supply (hmm ... maybe I'll try a smaller source supply ...) but at least I get a nice solid 5 volts going to the USB hubs.

    If you get one of those Kill-A-Watt (or equivalent) meters, it's a great help in figuring out what you might want to put on a power strip and switch off manually. My stereo components when off drew a total of about 50 watts so I started switching them all off. The battery chargers in the basement used about 10 watts total, but since I was only using them to keep batteries topped-off, I could reduce it by putting them on a timer and running them an hour a day instead.

    In essence, do your experiments and figure out how much you'll really save.

    --
    --- Jason Olshefsky

    Karma: Poser (mostly affected by adding this line long after everyone else did)

  17. Forget low voltage DC, low voltage AC is a path by Maljin+Jolt · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Recently, I did my own experiments on low voltage power distribution, mainly because I plan to install a large scale solar power charger with a lot of Pb accumulators. The best result is: 24V/35kHz AC home backbone, with a lot of switching voltage changers on rooms, those provide multiplicity of output voltage of 5V, 6V, 9V, 12V DC as well as 230V/50Hz for UPSes and consumer grade devices. LED lights are quite fine with low voltage already. It will take some 6-9 years to return the costs, but only because I design and build the circuitry myself.

    Unlike DC or 50/60Hz AC, 35kHz (or even more) AC requires a lot cheaper wiring, very small transformers and have very little losses.

    --
    There you are, staring at me again.
  18. AC vs DC dilema has been solved 120 years ago by aivankovic · · Score: 2, Informative

    A question of DC vs AC for electricity distribution was the subject of conflict between Edison an Tesla in 19th century. You can read more on that:

    <URL:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_of_Currents/ >

  19. Re:How many devices need 110V anyway? by AlterTick · · Score: 2, Informative
    Mircowaves and CRTs upconvert power to way above 110V anyway, theres no reason why they cant do that with a 12V input.

    Yes there is. A 1200W microwave draws 10 amps at 120V. At 12V it would draw 100A. You have any idea how thick the wire has to be to handle 100A?

    --
    Conclusion: the Empire squashes the Federation like a bug. Accept it.
  20. DC Vs AC Safety by Stephen+Samuel · · Score: 2, Informative
    According to my electronics instructor, electricity should generally be treated with respect, but DC is a good bit more dangerous than AC.

    Edison, for some unknown reason, hated Tesla and tried to kill his ideas of AC power distribution. He apparently had the (AC-powered) electric chair created as a PR stunt so that people would know that AC power was being used to kill people -- but it turned out to be relatively difficult to reliably kill people with AC power because an AC charge turns out to be an impromptu defibrulator, so you essentially have to cook your victim.

    DC on the other hand, causes the heart to go into a constricted mode which is harder to recover from. I was taught to always handle AC with one hond only, if at all possible (to avoid a possible circuit across the heart).

    --
    Free Software: Like love, it grows best when given away.