Effective Optical Disc Repair?

CyberKnet writes "I have an extensive music collection on original CD media. While most of it is in impeccable condition, I have a few discs that have suffered extensive scratching through listening to the disc either via a portable disc player, or in a car CD stacker. I've long since learned the error of my old ways and don't listen to discs in those devices any more, but those discs are irreplaceable in many cases. I would very much like to be able to repair them or have them repaired to original condition, or at least well enough that I can pull the tracks off once and archive the track data. I have heard really uncomplimentary things about devices like the Skip Doctor; ranging from it not helping to it making things worse. I've heard great things about JFJ devices that are seen on the counters of most Hollywood and BlockBuster video stores, but even their consumer devices start at $250. I would appreciate any other suggestions for devices that people have had personal experience with that won't break the bank."

Comments

NOVUS plastic polish

[Ellis D. Tripp]

Have had good luck using this stuff, a piece of chamois, and some elbow grease. Good on all kinds of plastics, not just CDs/DVDs.

http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-Plastic-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000B4Q9Y6

Easy

[Thelasko]

Toothpaste, or Brasso. I hear Brasso works the best.

I've got a $5 solution..

[Awptimus Prime]

Get a $5 tub of Mother's Metal Polish. It'll take out scratches in any plastic as long as you use a cotton or microfiber cloth.

It's also handy if you get a gimp DVD from NetFlix/Blockbuster and don't feel like waiting for a replacement.

Typically, you can buff down the worst of gashes in less than a minute. If you can't, then the $250 device probably wouldn't have worked either.

Since there's no way you'll use the whole tub on CDs or DVDs, you can use the rest to pretty up your silverware, brass stuff, and rub rust off things you don't feel safe using steel wool on.

Re:I've got a $5 solution..

[Taibhsear]

Since there's no way you'll use the whole tub on CDs or DVDs, you can use the rest to pretty up your silverware, brass stuff, and rub rust off things you don't feel safe using steel wool on.

This is probably off topic but I felt compelled to reply, never buff your silver. There's a super easy trick that companies don't want you to know. (IAAC) Get a container big enough for your silverware. Put aluminum foil in it, put the silver on top of it, fill with boiling water, sprinkle baking soda on top. The tarnished parts of the silver will disappear. It's an oxidation reduction reaction. Every atom of the silver will remain and it only removes the tarnish. No worry about scratches or wearing down the metal. I shine all my/my gf's/my family's silver jewelry and utensils this way. It only takes a few seconds.

Re:I've got a $5 solution..

[Anonymous Coward]

As a fine jeweler, I must say that you pose an interesting solution. However, I don't think that the reaction with aluminum is going to help you, the wearer, much. After putting the jewelry back on, you can still leave aluminum oxide all over your skin, which is very much an irritant.

Also, some of the stones you put in there will absolutely turn to crap if you try that. Don't do it with aquamarines, emeralds, opals, coral, turquoise, or any other soft stone.

Re:cdparanoia

[David Gerard]

Try ripping it with both cdparanoia and with Exact Audio Copy (Windows freeware that works well under Wine). Stuff that won't rip in one will often rip in the other.

Just a note

[Red Flayer]

If anyone recommends a home remedy (like toothpaste or baking soda paste), I would try it first on one of your not-so-irreplaceable discs.

Otherwise, you may be *very* unhappy with the results (like if you use a "whitening" toothpaste, or if your tecnhique sucks).

Reminds of an A-Team episode where someone (Murdoch?) tells Mr. T to clean his gold jewelry by putting it in the microwave. Mr. T was not amused with the results, to say the least.

Record Stores

[arthurpaliden]

Find a store that sells used albums and CDs they will most likely have this service. This is what I do.

Re:Define Irreplacable

[Xzzy]

Local artists that only ran a few thousand copies, and are no longer producing music?

That's how it worked before the internet, CD's or tapes was all they had for distribution and once those were gone, the band may as well never have existed.

I know I've got a dozen or so discs from the early 90's that fit that description, and I treat them better than I do myself. ;)

Re:Toothepaste

[MoonBuggy]

Yes, the abrasive in toothpaste can help to polish out the scratches, but really (especially as these are valuable/irreplaceable discs) you should just get it done professionally.

I can't vouch for any particular company, but Googling "disc resurfacing service" turns up plenty of fairly economical options. There's no point spending a few hundred on a professional resurfacing machine, nor is there in risking doing it yourself with toothpaste or metal polish and a microfibre cloth, when you can pay a couple of dollars a disc and have them done by someone who knows what they're doing in a machine that probably cost a thousand or more.

How to fix optical media

[stmfreak]

We have kids, so I've seen a LOT of this between the movies, Xbox games, CDs, etc. I tried the commercial dr-fix-it products and found they were weak at best and only useful for removing the faintest of scratches.

What I did, which carries some risk (with great power...) was go to my local Home Depot/Lowes and purchase:

* bench grinder ($35)
* buffing wheels, high/low density ($20)
* plastic rouge paste ($5)
* plastic polish paste ($5)

After putting the buffing wheels on the grinder, I took one of my worst discs which was scratched beyond belief. I think the kids left it on a table covered with sand and then sat on it and moved it about.

Anyway, start with the low-density pad and some plastic polish. Only buff a section for one or two seconds at a time, keep rotating the disc. Make the buffer scrub from center to the outside edge. If the low-density doesn't work, try the high-density pad. Put the plastic polish/rouge stick against the wheel for a second and then work the disc around.

Once you think you've gotten the worst of the scratches out, finish off with the low-density wheel and the plastic polish. Wipe clean with a soft cloth and water if necessary.

I've restored 50 or 60 games and movies this way. Takes 5 - 20 minutes depending on damage.

WARNING: push too hard or move too slowly and the surface of the polycarbonate will overheat and TEAR. You cannot fix a torn surface, that disc is now trash.

Good luck.

Re:cdparanoia

[ShieldW0lf]

I can vouch for EAC. I've had discs that wouldn't play at all, but I got a complete perfect copy off them using EAC. You may need to be patient though... I had one that took almost 22 hours to complete the rip, with the drive ripping 50 minutes out of every hour and a 10 minute cool-down period to prevent overheating. Can't vouch for it working under WINE though, haven't tried...

Re:cdparanoia

[ShieldW0lf]

You can learn more than you ever wanted to know about ripping discs from the guys at Chris Myden/UberNet. Not that I would ever have anything to do with such a network, that being illegal and such.

http://www.chrismyden.com/uber/