Ask Slashdot: A Cheap, DIY Home Security and Surveillance System?

scubamage writes "Six weeks ago, my home was broken into while my fiance and I were at work. Two laptops were stolen, an iPad, a power brick, a safe (complete with several years worth of taxes, my birth certificate, and old copies of my driver's license), a digital SLR, and several other costly items. We are now dealing with an attorney because the homeowner's insurance is fighting us on a number of items and we're not backing down. It has been a nightmare. However, we've now noticed that someone has been visiting our house during the day. There has been garbage left sitting on our back porch table, so its unlikely to have blown there. We've also seen footprints in our garden that are not there in the morning. Our neighborhood is essentially empty during the day, and we want to know who is on our property while we're not. If we're really lucky, reporting it to the police could recover some of our property. My fiance has asked me to assemble a home security system that is motion activated, and both notifies us of an entry, as well as records video or rapid HD stillframes when sensing motion. The goal is to do this cheaply and more effectively than going with a private security company like ADT (who, consequently, our police department told us to ignore due to the incredibly high rate of false alarms). We've already gotten the dog and the gun, so we have those bases covered. What suggestions do you have on setting up home security systems, and what have you done to build one in the past?"

Comments

Reputation

[Stargoat]

You have the gun, and you have the dog. All you really need now is a reputation.

Re:Reputation

[Anonymous Coward]

Assuming you live in Florida, start by chasing down passers-by with your car and shooting them with your gun. Given TV interviews afterwards in which you claim that you were simply defending yourself.

Re:Reputation

[idontgno]

Well, they have the gun and the dog. That way, when the crims steal the gun, they can shoot the dog on the way out.

Seriously. For simple unattended-property burglary, a gun is just an attractive target. And most dogs will just wag their tails all friendly-like at the burglar as they come and go.

Re:Reputation

[sco08y]

Assuming you live in Florida, start by chasing down passers-by with your car and shooting them with your gun. Given TV interviews afterwards in which you claim that you were simply defending yourself.

It might take some kind of vast racial conspiracy in order to make sure the police release you without charges. You'll have to get together with all the other Hispanic Democrats to pull this off.

If you do it right, though, you should be able to get enraged mobs of idiots to attack some random elderly couple whose son happens to have the same middle name as you!

Re:Reputation

[ubrgeek]

Middle of the night:
"knock, knock."
"Who is it?" as you rack a round in your pistol grip Mossberg 500, the process of which makes a very distinctive noise.
"Sorry, wrong address."
The comment about the blaring alarm scaring people off is true. As is the sound of the shotgun being racked.

Never mind 5,000 rounds a year, etc. On the off chance you have to fire after answering the door (a) you're firing from less than four feet away and (b) you're opening fire with pellets. So long as you don't try and play Terminator and use one hand to fire, you're going to hit something ... them, the walls, whatever (NEVER move to fire a weapon unless you can put your hands on every member of your family first. Do that and then advance to the intruder. Secure the family and then secure the house.) The sound of the blast will do a lot to persuade the bad guy to take off. Oh, and the pistol grip makes it much more likely you'll be able to get the first shot off first; you can "fire from the hip" instead of taking the time to raise the weapon to your shoulder (not to mention that you don't have to step back from the door to raise the weapon).

Take the weapon out to the woods and put a dozen rounds through it. Take your family. You'll get to feel the kick you're going to experience and almost more to the point, the sound. Should you need/feel the need to fire another shot during an intrusion, if you've never heard a shotgun go off while you're holding it, in my experience you are more likely to pause as you recover from the shock of the sound.

Re:Reputation

[SpockLogic]

You have the gun, and you have the dog. All you really need now is a reputation.

No, no, no ... get rid of the gun and get another dog.

You need a big scary dog to frighten off the burglars and a small yappy dog to bark and wake up the big dog.

Re:Reputation

[ColdWetDog]

Seriously. For simple unattended-property burglary, a gun is just an attractive target. And most dogs will just wag their tails all friendly-like at the burglar as they come and go.

Hopefully, one doesn't leave the gun in plain sight.

And even the friendliest, dumbest Labrador Retriever really is a deterrent for the garden variety low end thief. You don't know if the waggy critter wants you to pet him or if he's sizing you up because the owner is afraid of men and that vibe has been transmitted to the dog.

I've lived in rural environments for much of my adult life and people with dogs get burglarized much less than those with an empty house. Hardly the sole reason to have a dog, but it's what I tell my wife after "my dog" has jumped on the sofa after running home from his daily romp in the tidal flats.

If you wanted to strip my house, all you would have to do is drive up in a UPS truck and give the dog a treat. He thinks the the big brown truck is a giant, mobile snack machine. He'd help you drag stuff out in a second.

Re:Reputation

[ColdWetDog]

IANAL, but I have been told by multiple sources that a shotgun, being primarily a fowling piece and not a weapon, is more likely to get you off in court.

I don't know where you live, but in my neck of the woods, we don't have 'fowls' - only targets. The advantages of a shotgun for home defense are essentially three fold - they're much more permissive of poor aim than a pistol, they're much less likely to go through a window / door / wall and injure an innocent bystander and finally, if used at appropriate self defense distances are very often fatal. That means the perp can't go and sue you for not killing him outright.

I don't think you need to run 5000 rounds a year through a shotgun to be able to blow somebody away from six feet, but you do need to be able to use the weapon quickly and safely. Basically, if you don't shoot for business or recreation you shouldn't use a gun for self defense. You're much more liable to injure yourself or some other innocent person than actually prevent some malfeasance.

Re:Reputation

[DarwinSurvivor]

It make a big difference as to WHO is robbing you. If it's some homeless person or regular thief, a dog is more than enough to convince them to find another target. If it's the guy/teenager/etc from down the block, they probably know your dog and it won't be a deterent at all.

Re:Reputation

[TubeSteak]

if you've never heard a shotgun go off while you're holding it, in my experience you are more likely to pause as you recover from the shock of the sound.

If you're not comfortable with guns, you're most likely to close your eyes and flinch. It's pure reflex.
Your accuracy goes way up if you can keep your eyes open and your weapon on the target.

The only way to get that level of comfort is to go out and shoot stuff.
It's best if you have someone critique you, because you may not even realize you're tensing up and closing your eyes.

Re:Reputation

[demonlapin]

One Chihuahua, one Doberman. Proof against anything.

Re:Reputation

[CAIMLAS]

The reputation you want is "do not fuck with us or you will reap the whirlwind."

Physical security takes many forms; the dog, gun, and security cameras all serve various parts of the whole picture.

As for your current situation: you were scouted out and target over a period of days, weeks, or months. You were probably hit by fairly brazen professionals. You will probably not be hit again for a number of reasons:

* you are now more alert due to having been victimized
* you are now more likely to be better prepared
* they were thorough and you have nothing of value in the house which they wanted. Presumably, it was not a quick snatch and grab due to the safe being gone, too.
* you are more likely to alert your neighbors to be alert

Alert your neighbors, if you have any. Having a strong community is the best defense against these things. Our neighborhood has a nosey codger who is quite vigilant about things like this: if someone doesn't look like they're supposed to be there, he confronts them. People home with no vehicles in the drive is usually a pretty good indication if there's no garage.

I would also suggest not leaving unsecured arms in the house if you are not normally home. If they know you're not home and have firearms, you are more likely to be robbed by serious criminals (and then have to deal with all the paperwork, headache, and guilt of stolen firearms). On the other hand, stolen firearms are fairly easy to track unless they're intended for use in other crimes.

The most likely thing is that you won't be violated again in this fashion for some time, though it pays to be vigilant in security of mind. As for the topic at hand: newegg has occasional deals in the under-$500 range (saw an 8 camera unit for about $350 recently) for decent home security systems which do what you request. They use mini-BNC and the like, I believe.

Re:Reputation

[uncqual]

they're much less likely to go through a window / door / wall and injure an innocent bystander

Some interesting empirical testing at the The Box O' Truth - or for shotguns specifically (page through to "next page").

And take heed of the advice at Box O' Truth that "Unless you expect to be attacked by little birds, do not use birdshot". Basically, if it's good enough to do quick and debilitating damage to the perp, it's also going to penetrate quite few sheets of drywall (unless it hits a family member sooner of course).

Re:Reputation

[Jjeff1]

I'm hardly a weapons instructor or member of law enforcement, but this advice goes against just about everything I know.

- You won't open the door at all if there is a bad guy outside.
- You do need practice, a dozen rounds a year against clay pigeons is a waste. If you actually intend to defend yourself, take a shooting defense course, take several.
- Firing a weapon outdoors is far different than indoors; exposing the family to proper gun safety is a good idea, but outdoor != enclosed space at night.
- Pistol grip... Eh, you can aim and handle recoil far better with a shoulder fired weapon. Again, practice matters here.
- Most bad guys will take off as soon as they realize they have a chance of being caught. Racking a shotgun may scare away someone intent on doing you harm, but the guy there to take your stereo will scram if you flip a light switch.

The main point here is that if you ever have to defend yourself, you're going to be scared, probably in the dark, and probably having not handled your firearm in quite some time. Think quickly, where is the trunk release on your wife's car? Ok, it's dark; which is the SAFE position on your shotgun's safety? If you actually want to effectively defend yourself, you have to understand the most likely scenario under which that will occur. No amount of advice on any web site or book will take the place of regular training and practice.

Re:Reputation

[Will.Woodhull]

I too have concerns about the gun. Unless you and your fiancee are going to put in the time at the shooting range to get good with it (about 500 rounds each), and the monthly practice necessary to keep your skill levels up, the gun only increases your risks without providing any particular benefit. Unless, of course, you are talking about a light, short barrel shotgun (20 gauge or less), which is the only good point and shoot self defense tool for the home (no need to aim the thing-- easy to shoot from the hip. Effective range when loaded appropriately with pheasant shot is more than a room length, few worries about over penetration, will stop any aggressor who is not wearing body armor, maybe without even killing him-- saves you on lawyer costs. Mossberg has made a plastic stock 410 gauge 3 round pump action, which would be more than sufficient.)

Another point: you are talking about using lethal force in the face of property crimes. That kind of escalation suggests that any decisions you make now about defensive strategies should be reviewed in about three months when you are not reacting to the heat of the moment.

My pertinent background: living for nearly 30 years in a rural area beyond effective law enforcement patrols, but with a nearby freeway and intermittent periods of high transient crimes. German shepherds with loud barks were an excellent deterrent and a good friends and companions. However they do need several hours of attention daily, including walks in the country for exercise and in the town for socialization skills.

My background with firearms: a 30-06 as a very good deer rifle, a 22 pistol to deal with the occasional varmint-- skunks moving in under the barn; a raccoon who learned how to get into the garbage can, that kind of thing. A double barrel 20 gauge bird gun: I never had the opportunity to really learn how to bird hunt, but it was the gun that I kept in reach near the bed.

Now I don't live in a situation where I can keep a dog properly, and now I rely on a cell phone as a deterrent to crime: dialing a cell phone is much more effective than firearms ever were. Just look at the way crime rates have tumbled as cell phones have become more common. The correlation is too strong for there not to be a connection.

Re:Reputation

[SydShamino]

No no, you have it all wrong. Our neighbors, who were burgled last year, had one of their guns stolen. That uplifted it to a much more serious crime (at least here in Texas), and they got police attention until the guilty party (a Mexican gang from the other side of town, who just picked their house at random) was busted.

Here's how you do it:
1. Get a gun. Register said gun.
2. Pour molten solder into the barrel of said gun.
3. Leave said gun in plain sight in your home.
4. If your house is burgled, report your gun stolen immediately. The police will pay attention.
5. Have no fear that your gun will be used to hurt yourself or anyone else, except whoever tries to use it.

Re:Reputation

[Will.Woodhull]

A 4 to 6 inch pattern sounds about right for buckshot from a gun fully choked for duck or goose hunting. Which would be a 12 or 10 gauge shoulder bruising mother: relatively heavy and awkwardly long for indoor use. But you know all about full chokes and semi chokes and open bores, since you have been throwing so much buckshot down range. You know, for instance, that a goose gun is intended to reach way out there and put a string of shot a few yards long in front of that bird, so it will fly into it. You know that the ideal goose gun would deliver a pattern an inch in diameter and 10 yards long.

However you talk about aiming the shotgun, which bird hunters do not do; they point the gun where the bird is going to be when the shot gets out to that distance. The only shotguns I am aware of that have sights for aiming are those designed for east coast deer hunting. Which fits with your use of buckshot rather than birdshot. Though I would have thought that rifled slugs would be better for deer, but then I have never hunted deer with a smooth-bore gun.

A .410 or 20 gauge with an open choke and using pheasant loads will give a pattern of 8 to 12 inches at 21 feet. Most persons can point at things with much greater accuracy than that; the pattern is wide enough that pointing is sufficient and aiming the way one aims a rifle or handgun is not necessary, and often impossible. This kind of farm and field gun typically only has a bead for a front sight and no rear sight: you cannot aim it; but with much less practice than a handgun requires, you can get very good at pointing it when firing from the shoulder.

I kind of regret having said anything about firing from the hip. That cannot be safely learned just with practice or from reading up on it; like a martial art, a trainer who can assess and correct your form is needed. A light shotgun is the appropriate equipment, but no good without the trainer.

Re:Reputation

[Splab]

Actually, since the house was emptied of everything, they are more likely to get a repeat visit since the thiefes know the house is going to be filled with brand spanking new everything. (apparently even some nice recording gizmos to boot)

Re:Reputation

[hairyfeet]

That is why you need a MOM...Mean Old Mutt. Don't go for that overbred crap, go to the local shelter and you'll find plenty of 'em that will be damned good security. my ma's place was constantly getting gas stolen as well as any easy to carry items and she was at her wits end and starting to get scared. As luck would have it what would be scavenging in the ditch as i was visiting but an obviously part wolf MOM. I said "Hell there is you answer ma...hey there buddy, want a burger?" and the kids quickly gave him the name of Jackie.

Old Jackie didn't take long at all to decide that was HIS property and to learn which humans was allowed and which humans weren't and sure enough not 2 weeks later I get called out by ma, when I get there she is feeding Jackie a big plate of eggs with bacon bits. When i asked what was going on one of the kids held up a piece of bloody jeans and said "Whoever that gas thief was they screamed REAL good when old Jackie tore into them!" and when ma got out there she saw old Jackie chasing down some punk who jumped in an old hoopty and tore out of there and she found a gas can that wasn't hers.

Sadly old Jackie passed away a couple of years back, one day he just got up and wandered off into the woods, never to return. I'd seen that behavior before with part wolves, its like they know its time and they just go find a tree somewhere and lay down under it and die, but lucky for us old Jackie had given us a couple of pups with a stray female so now we have Chubs, which looks like his wolf daddy mixed with a rottweiler.

So get ya a mean old mutt, pups are too willing to please to be good against strangers, a mature mutt can be VERY territorial and will learn its place DAMNED quick and if you get a stray or one from the shelters they are damned grateful to have a home. Give 'em a little TLC, along with some scraps and rewards when they do well and watch how quickly that dog learns its job. If you need advice on breeds anything with wolf, collie, or sheppard is a good place to start. I've talked to cop buddies and been told how many times they've dealt with idiots that were too fucking stupid to back down from a gun but they STFU and obeyed when faced with a dog, staring at a mess of fur and fangs is primal whereas they act like they are Chuck Norris when they see a gun, so if you want a gun that's fine but a mean old mutt makes for a better first line of defense IMHO.

Re:Reputation

[sco08y]

Oh, and the pistol grip makes it much more likely you'll be able to get the first shot off first; you can "fire from the hip" instead of taking the time to raise the weapon to your shoulder (not to mention that you don't have to step back from the door to raise the weapon).

I've successfully spun around and fired from the hip using MILES, so it can be done and you can hit a small target, the laser emitter on my rifle had to line up to the sensor within a few cm, but this was when I was in an OPFOR unit and I had been doing it as my full time job for some years. But generally, firing from the hip is useless; our doctrine was to always assume a good stance, line up both sights, and take only well aimed shots. A carefully aimed semi-automatic rifle is by far the most effective way to put rounds on target; that's why the bulk of soldiers carry a rifle or carbine and that's why the first stage on the selector is semi.

We're talking about being indoors, and a defensive situation, so the distances are much smaller, and we're expecting to fire reflexively. Still, in reflexive fire drills, you bring the weapon up and put the front sight post on center mass, make positive determination, and fire. What reflexive fire omits is the time consuming step of lining up the rear sight post. The only difference with regular shooting at the range is that you keep your weapon down and wait for your buddy to announce the target; you might also do the "turn and fire" drills. You should be able to practice it at most pistol ranges.

As is the sound of the shotgun being racked.

If you get a shotgun, most people recommend pump-action. I have never seen any study let alone hard evidence showing that home invaders are scared off by that sound more than a vocal announcement by the homeowner, and I suspect people recommend it because it sounds cool in movies and video games. In contrast, there is a practical, easily verifiable benefit to a semi-automatic shotgun: if you miss, your sights are still on target and you can keep firing.

Re:Reputation

[sco08y]

That's one of the worst attempts at humor on /. What's more sad is the 'Insightful' uprating.

Usually if a joke is lame someone can manage a comeback. You've only had all night to think about it.

Granted, you're stuck with trying to defend lynching a guy who hasn't been charged, let alone proven guilty beyond a reasonable doubt, and deliberately deepening racial divisions in America for purely political reasons.

I won't hold my breath waiting for your witty riposte.

Re:Reputation

[SuperBanana]

Assuming you live in Florida, start by chasing down passers-by with your car and shooting them with your gun.

You forgot the part where you lose sight of the passer-by, the passer-by (who is a foot taller than you) then chases *you* down, starts screaming, punches you in the face knocking you to the ground, and then proceeds to beat the stuffing out of you. In front of witnesses. Just for following him.

Treyvor Martin was a wannabe thug with a chip on his shoulder who was angry at the world for being suspended from school where he was dealing drugs. Funny how nobody is talking about black hatred for non-blacks here, or his drug problems?

Re:Reputation

[AmiMoJo]

The reputation you want is "do not fuck with us or you will reap the whirlwind."

Unfortunately many thieves fail to adequately research the reputation of their victims. A reputation really isn't going to protect you as much as, say, securing your property.

Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[brokenin2]

We had our cars getting broken into and did basically the same thing (minus gun).

We have a linux file server at home, so what I ended up doing was getting a V4L
compatible video capture card off ebay (I got a 16 input card for $80). 4 port
capture cards are common and cheap. Just make sure it's compatible with linux.

Then go to dealextreme.com, or I think they're also at dx.com now. There you can
get cameras, and the video balun's to make it simple to use cat 5 to run your
cameras. A camera is about $20 for a decent night vision one, and the balun set
(8 baluns to run 4 cameras) were about $25.

Once you've got your hardware all set up, you can use either "motion" or "zoneminder"
for the actual surveilence. Both will do what you want. I use motion, but
zoneminder is a little more polished in the UI department.

Finally, set up an rsync script or other mirror software to get those files off site
in case they actually try to steal your server.

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[brokenin2]

I repeat:
Finally, set up an rsync script or other mirror software to get those files off site
in case they actually try to steal your server.

If you have triggers set up right, you'll have the video of the person walking right
up to your server to steal it.

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[Anonymous Coward]

I've got mine set to email pictures where motion was detected to an account I have dedicated for that. By the time they uplug the server, their picture is already sitting on a remote server, waiting for me to forward to the police.

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[schitso]

There's also the option of IP cameras with memory card slots built in. Just make sure to screw it down tight.

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[keeboo]

I live in medium sized building (16 floors) and we had a similar dilemma.

We bought one of those cheap chinese OEM CCTV DVRs (sold under several brands worldwide, the real source is a chinese company called Dahua), plus 8 cameras.
Notes:
Considering its price, the DVR works quite well, and has decent quality/framerate (30 fps / camera, 352x240). The bad thing is that the remote client software (optional usage) is Windows-only and buggy as hell.
We considered a desktop PC with a multi-channel vide capture card (it's far more flexible), but it's messier to install/maintain (bigger, with fans sucking dirt 24/7, someone may be tempted to occasionaly use as a desktop PC etc).

We installed the DVR in the entrance room, so the doorman/watcher (however it's called in English) can see what is going on AND we have all the activity recorded in case of need.
Problem: What if, for example, someone steps in with a gun and blows up the DVR? The videos are gone, and a periodic backup will not prevent this, since the most relevant video happened mere instants before, thus DVR-copy only. -- So, for the worst-case scenario (and right the most valuable one to have recorded video), the DVR seemed useless (the DVR has a built-in sync mechanism which is very unreliable, so it's worthless).

The dillema was solved with a free software called Tanidvr (Unixoid_OS-specific, command-line, and specific to that DVR family). Basically, we bought a computer to be used as a realtime backup server, installed in a locked room in a different floor. We also have a (intranet-only) HTTP server in order to easily download the videos, if necessary.
So, no matter what happens to the DVR, we have the video data up to the exact time (delay <1 second) the machine was destroyed.
A backup script was created for video fragmentation, and to recompress the H.264 stream to fit more days into the HD (with a quality/size the DVR is unable to provide).

Well, it works for us.

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[cusco]

Horsepuckey. I **AM** a pro, and the only time we use cell phone connections is for remote sites where there's no reasonable wiring alternatives and there's no line-of-sight for microwave links.

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[AlienIntelligence]

A camera is about $20 for a decent night vision one, and the balun set
(8 baluns to run 4 cameras) were about $25.

Once you've got your hardware all set up, you can use either "motion" or "zoneminder"
for the actual surveilence. Both will do what you want. I use motion, but
zoneminder is a little more polished in the UI department.

If you are reading the posts for info, all of his prices are about 1/4 the cost
of actual prices. I'm not sure where the fuck you're getting a $20 camera,
new, worthwhile enough to protect anything of value. 360 lines in black and
white don't cut it son.

My cheapest cam, was $60... and it's JUST BARELY ABLE TO RENDER
A FACE FOR PROSECUTION. And I use it solely for the door. It's close
to their face, they see it... it sees them.

My most expensive was $170 and it has auto-iris... for when the thieves
try to flood the sensor. Wireless so they can't unplug it. Super low lux so
all the ambient light is enough to get a face to resolve. A microphone and
a gimbal so I can track with it.

Someone who spends $20 on a camera... is NOT interested in the job
that camera is supposed to do.

-AI

Re:Been there, done that.. Here's your plan.

[AlienIntelligence]

You're talking about using NTSC/PAL analog video here -- which is completely inadequate if you'd need to actually identify someone. Even if you're lucky enough to get the perps face(s) looking straight into the camera (which you won't -- the angle you're going to have the cameras at will make it more than likely their faces will be covered by a baseball cap or something), there just isn't enough going to be the resolution necessary to be able to ID them, especially with cheap cameras from DX over long runs of cat5. Maybe IP cameras at higher resolution would be better? Just don't cheap out with low end toys (e.g. the Dlink DCS-903L I have has disappointed me).

I know, right? Lol... someone suggested a $20 camera on here... LOL!

For all these people to be nerds and geeks... you'd think they'd know
that scan lines on a camera is just as damn important as when you
are watching TV.

480 and less lines, DO NOT CUT IT FOR PROSECUTION!

Hell, 480 is barely enough to recognize your neighbors... and you know
them! Try to recognize someone you've never seen before.

Best camera to get, is the kind that take actual jpg (or other) images,
not line-scan cameras. If you can't afford that... Get at least 520 lines,
min. 600's obv better... and 720 is pretty nice. Want to be serious?
Full 1080p jpg recording.
http://www.worldeyecam.com/store/vcc-hd4000-high-definition-zoom-day-night.html
$1,124.99

Dual Codec High Definition
At the heart of this camera is a 4 megapixel CMOS imager cranking out a resolution of 1920 x 1080p in H.264 mode and 2288 x 1712 pixels in JPEG mode. What all these numbers mean to you, is that you can set the camera further back in your establishment and cover the same area normally requiring the installation of multiple analog cameras. And by starting off with such a high resolution, you can magnify the picture many times over and still get the image clarity needed to correctly identify people and objects.

FOR PROSECUTION!

$20 camera, lol.

-AI

Zoneminder

[stox]

http://www.zoneminder.com/

It integrates well with MythTV, too.

Gun -- ?

[evil_aaronm]

Guns aren't any use if they're a) not handy, and b) not understood. Could also backfire if the bad guy takes it away from you. Or steals it from you while you're gone during the day.

Don't get me wrong: I have a number of guns in my house. But that alone doesn't make me feel safe in the event of a break-in. I hope you catch the cock-sucker, but be careful that you don't become another "statistic" in the process.

Re:Gun -- ?

[Intropy]

That's nothing at all like the prisoner's dilemma.

Bear trap with a raspberry pi in the catch

[damm0]

Should catch geeks better than unobtainium!

Frontpoint

[BaverBud]

We were broken into about 5 weeks ago. I originally considered Frontpoint about 5 months ago, but we kept putting it off. It's the only security company that had mediocre to good reviews consistently.

They have a few options - what you're looking for is their "ultimate" version, which includes cameras. It streams online I believe, and you can turn on/off the security system from your phone or their web page.

They do not send out a rep to do installation, instead they ship the system to you (they'll probably upgrade you to next day shipping for free if you mention you just had a burglary) and you set it up yourself. It took me about 15 minutes to set up, although I had to re-glue some of the door sensors.

When you call, or email, their sales agents don't try to upsel you. They work with what you want, and try to assess your needs based on how you describe your house. If you want an extra sensor for something, they are happy to give it to you - but they will want to know why, and if they don't think it's needed, they'll try to talk you out of it. I had the feeling they actually cared about my interests, and not selling me more equipment.

They also follow up on any feedback you provide, and actively try to resolve issues. I'm really happy with them. They use alarm.com for monitoring.They also have additional styles of sensors that the average joe doesn't care about (ones that you install in the door, rather than putting on the outside of the door - i.e. invisible), but you need to ask. They try to keep it simple.

Re:Steal someones

[idontgno]

Steal someones 'secured by' signs from their front yard

Maybe you can tack the sign up on your wrought-irony porch railing.

I suggest

[NEDHead]

Since you have the gun already, landmines for the garden are the obvious next step

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[schitso]

Right, because some in-and-out trained chimps are who you should trust with your home security.

Get something like a Honeywell Lynx Plus. It's wireless, easy to install, and easy to set up. You don't even need it monitored--the sound of the panel blaring would send any burglar packing. As for CCTV, you can get some dead cheap camera/DVR deals on Newegg, but don't expect awesome quality or lifespan.

Hunting Camera

[dagoalieman]

Get a hunting trail camera. Takes pics on an SD card. Not networked, but is designed to be outside and it should get you the information you seek relatively cheaply.

Re:Hunting Camera

[AlienIntelligence]

Get a hunting trail camera. Takes pics on an SD card. Not networked, but is designed to be outside and it should get you the information you seek relatively cheaply.

Showing pics to cop after crime...

Cop: Yep, that's a person, definitely not a deer.
Owner: Can you get them?
Cop: What am I going to do, put out a bolo for a smudgy blob?

-AI

several options

[putch]

I use a combination of Yawcam and Vitamin D. Neither are particularly great, but they serve my needs. And they're (mostly) free. I get images emailed to me when it detects motion in my apt and I can view live video remotely from my phone or a browser (via ssh or vpn). I use the Star Trek Enterprise (NCC-1701) webcam that I got from thinkgeek.

I've been thinking about adding something to monitor and record audio too. Also, been thinking about switching to use a kinect as the camera.

I'm glad this story was posted because sometimes I think I'm too paranoid for doing all of this. This is somewhat re-assuring.

Get a girlfriend.

[Anonymous Coward]

All the surveillance you can take.... Oh wait, you said "cheap".... never mind...

Logitech delivers a surprisingly good turnkey solu

[unixhero]

Logitech delivevers a surprisingly good turnkey solution! I use it in my company, we have 20 stores and lately there has been a surge in robberies of our stores. After we got these cameras set up, with no extra hacking, it delivers perfect video with sound and can of course be motion activated. We have sendt the video captures to the national TV station (Norwegian TV2) and it got aired nationwide. The quality was that good that they chose to use our videos. I would not bother create a hacked-together just because these things Just Work. Normally I wouldn't trust a Logitech product to do something this important, but they are very good and reliable. No problems, we've use them daily at 20 locations with no problems and no hazzles. I am not affiliated with Logitech, I just really like a solution that works perfectly and want to share it with others.

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[SomePgmr]

If they're looking to catch the daytime lurker (and likely robber), I'd imagine you'd want it to be silent. At least for this job. A real alarm can come later if necessary.

So, for this, maybe a trailcam would do the job on the cheap. Otherwise I'm sure there are webcams that do it.

In fact, you want them to steal your server

[jerryasher]

My server is a very nice case mod with transparent panels and blue glowing lights that sits on a shelf next to my flat screen TV. It's so cool. It screams steal me! On top of it I leave several DVDs of porn each in their own DVD jewel box wrapper with all the porn photos on them.

Of course, there are three other IP cameras pointed at this wonderfully blue glowing empty box too, each camera with motion detection and set to email pictures to my gmail account and ftp video to an external host.

Re:In fact, you want them to steal your server

[Anonymous Coward]

So you have a gmail account full of pictures of you whackin it?
That's gross dude!

IP Cameras

[Above]

IP cameras have become quite cheap, depending on your needs. If you get PoE models they are also far easier to run than traditional cameras, as a single CatE cable can get the job done. I've set up small systems a number of places including my house, and it all works quite well and easily. While you can go the open source route, I found the easiest way is with some Mac software. You can even do it without network DVR software and use cameras that capture to onboard SD cards. I find that inconvenient, but it can be a good backup if your cameras are mounted out of reach but your server isn't.

Checkout, in no particular order:

• Vivotek
• Axis
• Panasonic
• Y-Cam

There's a product for every need. Cheap, $50 indoor lit-room only solutions to $2000 pan/tilt/zoom IR illuminated outdoor vandal proof units.

TrendNet makes affordable PoE switches. 10/100 is fine, an individual camera stream is maybe 2Mbps for a high res stream.

I use SecuritySpy on a Mac. Even watching 8 cameras it uses

Place cameras where you can get good shots of faces as they come through doors. Maybe one of your driveway or street in front to get a car. They won't stop the break in, although visible cameras outside may be a deterrent, but they will give you a fighting chance of catching the person who did it.

Oh, and get a dog with a loud bark. Most robbers don't want to find out if it is a small dog or big dog!

Re:IP Cameras

[Darth_brooks]

Trendnet has a good supply of cameras as well. They're cheap, but I can say from experience the 110w, 121w, and 312w all do a perfectly decent job. They're not the best thing in the world, but they just work. Trendnet's "monitoring software" is crap however.

640 x 480 cameras don't get good faces. Even megapixel shots from any more than a couple feet away aren't that great. A better bet is to cover vehicle approaches. No one is going to steal your TV on foot, no one is going to loot ten minutes worth of your stuff on foot, and cops have a much better chance of spotting "Two white males 1998 red ford ranger with a dent on the left side of the bed" than they have of spotting "black male with a mustache and an earring in his left ear wearing a blue shirt." The guy in the shirt will have a chance to change shirts before the cops even show up at your door. The guys in the truck are going to use that truck in another break in.

In my experience, the two guys doing home invasions (one guy goes in, one guy keeps the car running and sits on lookout.) will hit a neighborhood a few times before things get hot. If you can ID the car, cops will have a *MUCH* better chance at nabbing the perps. I passed a couple frames I managed to get of a car that was involved at a break in near my home to the county sheriff. The cops were thrilled to have that more than a description, as it gave them a much narrower focus.

Re:Steal someones

[Dyinobal]

That is what I mean by the statement. A sign is almost as good as a security system, because it will either convince the thief to go some place else or it won't, and if it doesn't then what ever you could of done wouldn't keep them from breaking into your home and stealing yourself.

Re:Gun?

[CanHasDIY]

Better plan: Place a honeypot "screamer" device that sends its GPS location every 30 seconds to a server that you control. Let the thief lead you to *his* lair.

Great idea, but don't forget to check into your local laws and regulations (specifically wiretapping and surveillance laws) prior to deploying such a device.

How much would it suck to get arrested for illegally bugging the guy who just robbed you?

Consider sound as well

[Forever Wondering]

Breaking glass has a very distinctive sound signature. It is what professional services use to detect intrusions (My last company had this and it did detect breakins). Also, thieves are quite noisy when doing a breakin (e.g. they talk/yell, make a lot of noise while searching through drawers, etc). This is also used as the basis of some pro systems (e.g. Sonitrol)

---

Sending sound information to your phone would be a lot less bandwidth than video. It would be easier for you to respond in real time. That is, system detects a [possible] breakin sound signature, sends a text alert to your phone. You then connect to real time monitoring of the microphones. You would be able to confirm what is happening. Then, you can call police and say that a human has verified the breakin. They would be more likely to respond (vs. false alarm)

Re:Gun?

[DCFusor]

Get a concealed carry license and keep the gun on you (obviously, learn to use it well, that part can be fun). It won't get stolen. I live in a place where just about everyone has guns - it's a tool for almost daily use out here in farm country. There are some criminals that live here, but there's no crime here. It's too damn dangerous as they might not get the expected "due process" if caught, and they know it. I was once burgled on several days successively when I lived in the DC area. Kids even made a camp-fire on my kitchen floor. Stole onyx and marble chess pieces to skip on the pond, and coin collections to buy cokes. The cops said, well, it's just kids - not much we can do, we don't have time to stake out your home even though it's been burgled 3 times in three days at roughly known times of day. Sigh. I told them - I hope it's YOUR kid, because tomorrow, I'm going to park my car 5 blocks away, sneak back here, and sit behind the front door with my .44 magnum and blow away the first thing through the door. Next day - the cops showed up. It WAS one of their kids, along with others, and the cop, realising where all that cool stuff his kid was dragging home, figured it all out and busted them. Sometimes they need a reminder to do their job. It worked that time anyway.

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[Intropy]

But she's specifically asking for a DIY solution, and is apparently pretty serious about it since she's already gotten a dog and a gun for security purposes.

You have to separate issues

[jtownatpunk.net]

First, DOCUMENT YOUR POSSESSIONS!!!

Take pictures that show model numbers and serial numbers. Keep a list of serial numbers. Keep receipts. Register the devices with the manufacturer as additional proof of ownership. I'm sure your insurance agent told you this when you set up the policy.

A surveillance system would have done nothing to prove the value of what you lost. On video, a $6000 laptop looks exactly the same as a $350 laptop.

As to the surveillance system, there are a number of consumer systems available at a reasonable price. Anywhere from a single camera up to 16-camera systems. $400-500 will buy you a ready-to-roll 8 camera system with DVR and remote monitoring, including iphone/android phone video feed. Not pro-quality stuff but decent. Just make sure you post "This area is under video surveillance" signs at the entrances.

I don't think I'd bother with a monitored alarm system, though I'd certainly consider one that makes a lot of noise and flashes a lot of strobes. The fact that a system is monitored isn't what deters theft. It's the noise and attention that is drawn to the scene that chases them off.

Honeypot

[evil_aaronm]

If you're going with a system with obvious cameras, you may want to install a few "honeypot" decoys to throw the thief a little change-up, in case he starts ripping them down to avoid surveillance.

Maybe a boobie-trapped safe, too. Might not be exactly legal, depending on how lethal the boobie-trap is, but it's not like the thief will call the cops and report your trap in a stolen safe. Especially if the boobie-trap is 100% lethal...

Never sign a long term monitoring contract!

[ilovegroupthink]

Good choice on avoiding ADT..etc. I foolishly signed a 3 year contract in the past.

• Call local security companies (not ones representing dealers like ADT, Brinks)
• Tell them you have your own hardware, and you are wondering if they provide monitoring service
• If they do investigate their month-to-month monitoring agreement
• If they don't they will probably tell you who they subcontract the monitoring to, you can then contact them directly for service

Over the term of a 36 month contract you get killed financially, it is way cheaper to avoid monitoring contracts, and go month-to-month.

You dont need a security system

[Arker]

Well, maybe you do, but the point is that isnt the way to solve the problem you are immediately about. What you want to do is catch these people - whether with a camera or otherwise. A security system wont be something desinged with that in mind, but more general goals. It might, for instance, have decoy cameras so as to make it appear better defended, to scare off would-be burglars. You do NOT want to scare these people off, you want to catch them, right?

So focus on that and rethink the problem. One classic and effective technique is to stay in the house while making it appear that you went with everyone else. Then just keep a low profile and very quiet and wait with that baseball bat, and 911 on speed dial...

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[TWX]

Do you know how a monitored security system works?

I do, I work for an organization with about 100 sites which I have to go in and out of, including during hours when I have to disarm a site.

The security company, by and large, doesn't really care about the brand of system in the site, they can interface to many, so long as they're commercial products. In our case, only one door into a secured area won't immediately set the alarm off, that one door has a delay before the alarm goes off, in which one disarms the system. The attendant at the security company gets an alarm on their computer screen when a site goes off, and they call the police if they don't receive a call within a minute or so of the actual alarm going off, even if one disarms the security system post-alarm. One has to know who to call and has to have a code word to prevent the authorities from being called.

In some residential installations, the security company will call a phone number on the account and ask for the code word instead of waiting for a call.

As far as burglars go, without some kind of monitoring, a burglar will still have a few minutes to grab whatever they can, even while the thing is blaring, as it's unlikely that the neighbors will call the police until the alarm gets annoying and they figure that no one is around to shut it off.

There are also fairly inexpensive ($500-$1000) camera systems with eight cameras (expandable to sixteen) at Costco that use PoE cameras. One has to run Ethernet wiring to locations for the cameras, but the advantage of needing only one battery backup for the main DVR/switch outweighs the use of separate power at each camera, in my humble opinion. I'm considering a system like this, but I know that I'll probably spend another $500 wiring for it, with the horizontal cable, the patch cords at each end, the conduit pipe for the outdoor cameras, the patch panel, the snap-in connectors, and the like, and that's assuming that I can coax an old battery backup back to life with a new set of SLAs for it.

There's no good cheap solution, in my opinion. If one is in a house, signing up for monitoring for a certain amount of time may yield a free system for detection.

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[mea_culpa]

99% of the time a very loud siren will stop the theif from spending much time in your property. Even if you had the most expensive ADT setup it still takes minutes for police to do anything about it anyway.
You can pay ADT $45/mo for 5 years to install $200 worth of equipment and feel better. But you can get better results installing your own system and hooking up with something like NextAlarm for $17/mo no contract and get email/SMS notification when anything goes wrong, check event history such as who armed and disarmed and even get SMS when your housekeeper disarms/rearms, etc.
This combined with a cheap Lorex/Swann net connected DVR system from Costco that lets you instantly see 8/16 channels of video from your smartphone will be more than adequate.

There is a small learning curve when programming your own alarm panel, but since you are asking Slashdot, you probably know how to google already. Hopefully.

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[cusco]

Apparently reading comprehension is not your strong suit. The cops told them that they ignore ADT alarms (which is absolutely true). The reason is because their installations are so bad that false alarms outnumber actual alarms >100 to 1. I work in the physical security industry (commercial installations, not residential).

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[Relayman]

In Cincinnati, be sure to register your "monitored" alarm system with the False Alarm Reduction Unit. If you don't register, the first false alarm will cost you $100 and subsequent false alarms will be $800 each.

After you register, here are the fees for false alarms in a 365-day period:
1st and 2nd none
3rd $50.00 Fee may be waived if user attends an Alarm User Awareness School offered by the Cincinnati Law Department
4th $75.00
5th $100.00
6th $150.00
7th $200.00
8th $300.00
9th $400.00
10th $500.00
11th or more $800.00 each occurence. No, this is too complicated for me to make up: False Alarm Unit Registration

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[LifesABeach]

I've always perferred using a Resuce Panther.

Re:Gun?

[rahvin112]

It depends on the state but IIRC 32 states allow you to kill and intruder in your home. There are even a few like Texas that allow you to kill a trespasser. Threatening to kill someone in your house is not making death threats under the legal definition of such if your state has "Castle" laws that allow you to kill an intruder (doesn't matter if they are armed or their intent).

Training for the gun and dog.

[azenpunk]

Now that you have the gun and the dog you really should get some training for both. You and your wife need training with the firearm, even if said training is only practice at a firing range, so you can be familiar with it that you can use it in a tense situation. The shot groupings you get at the range will double in size when you are under pressure, that means if your shot pattern is as wide as the silhouette target at the range, a significant portion of your shots will miss. If you have a pistol look at glaser safety slugs, they will not penetrate your drywall and endanger your neighbors. If you have a shotgun, even better. If you have reason to feel that your life is threatened, you have at that point a moral and legal right to kill an intruder if that is the only apparent way to end the confrontation. Of course, if you do not believe you could ever pull the trigger (a opinion one really can't form until they have given it much thought and used the weapon several times, at a range of course) then sell the firearm, it will only be a liability and a danger to you, although many burglaries have been averted by the simple sound of a shotgun pump sliding back and forth.

Also remember that the gun is only useful if you are home to wield it. If someone breaks in while you are away, you may be held criminally liable for allowing it to be stolen, depending on where you live.

The dog also needs to be trained so that it cannot be distracted by any treats that an intruder might present, and instead attack when necessary.

I would also carry a folding knife with me in case I should come home early and meet an intruder, in such a scenario, don't brandish the weapon in an attempt to dissuade someone. An intruder may be a career criminal and much more used to violence than you are. If you have to use a knife, have it ready but as hidden in your hand as you can make it.

Now of course all of this only applies to an actual confrontation. If there are no children to protect it is best to avoid any such confrontation.

Good luck, I sincerely hope a camera and a call the the police are all it takes to stop whoever it is from trespassing in your home while you are away.

Sorry I don't have advice on the camera set up.

Re:Don't be a sucker

[icebike]

Not true. Plenty of options for self-monitored systems. If you want a hard-wired system and have a land-line, you can get setup for about $400. Video would of course cost more, but I've seen systems through costco than can be setup for a few hundred. For under a grand you could be setup.

Exactly right.
Google will find many such systems, some with night vision, many of them with wireless cameras which go a long way toward reducing installation costs, and allowing you to hide the recorder without a lot of wires running to it, making it harder to find and steal.

Lots of these also have text messaging or email alert systems and some even have remote monitoring that you can access from any web browser (including your phone).

Monthly services have such a high false alarm rate that police are starting to charge big money. Nobody will watch your home like you yourself. And you will learn to adjust it so false alarms are minimized. If you have a 24/7 internet connection a live monitoring feature can save you from panicing every time a neighbor's kid kicks a ball over the fence.

Re:Logitech delivers a surprisingly good turnkey s

[unixhero]

Interesting, are there any particular or specific setups, model numbers etc that we look into?

http://www.newegg.com/Store/BrandSubCategory.aspx?Brand=1080&SubCategory=521&name=Surveillance-Cameras

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[cusco]

Blue Iris is a video monitoring system. Fairly close to professional grade, and free. Large selection of IP cameras available. I was going to recommend this if no one else had (I work in the physical security industry).

If you want to see who's wandering around your yard get a decent quality IP camera and go to the trouble of configuring it. I very highly recommend Axis cameras (and very highly recommend AGAINST Sony cameras), probably the 216FD, or the M3304 or 216MFD if you need megapixel resolution. Expect to pay >$500 if you go that route, but they're worth it and when you're done you can sell them again for a decent price. Log into the camera, set your IP address, and set up motion detection. You'll see how to do it, it's pretty straight-forward. Try to make sure that your motion detection area doesn't include any bushes or anything else that moves in the wind. If you get an Axis camera you can download the Axis Camera Station recorder for free, which is a nice, basic video recording system that is pretty easy to configure (easier than Blue Iris, even). Set it to record continually to a hard drive you don't use for anything else (a cheap external USB drive works fine), since megapixel video sucks up drive space at a pretty phenomenal rate. Three or four images per second should be sufficient, and the camera will raise motion alarms that make it easier to review the recordings. Put it inside a window or under an eave, you don't want to deal with the cost for weatherizing something that's just temporary, and since any of the cameras I mentioned are POE you just need a CAT-5 cable and your system is set.

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[schitso]

My career is in security, actually. My point was that most burglars will high tail it the hell out of a house when the alarm goes off, thinking the police are already on their way. Even those that actually know what they're doing have no way of knowing whether or not you're monitored. A sticker on your keypad with a number to call in case of false alarms will only increase their perceived risk of staying longer.

Additionally, while many companies do indeed offer "free" systems in exchange for long-term monitoring contracts, with how many of them do you actually own the equipment? You can spend <$1000 on a Lynx Plus and own it for the rest of your life, moving it with you from household to household.

Regarding CCTV, as others have pointed out, there are a million and a half analog CCTV camera manufacturers, many for <$100 per camera. Though the quality/lifetime of them will more than likely suck, they are still available. Throw that in with a ZoneMinder or a cheap DVR and you can most certainly have CCTV for

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[ozmanjusri]

If they're looking to catch the daytime lurker (and likely robber), I'd imagine you'd want it to be silent.

I use MythTV as a PVR, so adding MythZoneMinder and a few IPCams was pretty simple. It sends me a text message when one of the zones is breached, and I can look at the images or the live feed from my phone or work computer. One of the cameras is a PTZ, and the only time I got to use it in anger, turning it to face the kids who were about to tag my mailbox got them to change their minds. If something's happening that really concerns me, I can call the police direct or ask one or several of my neighbours to help out.

List of Security Recommendations

[stealthyburrito]

Prioritize at will:

DOORS & LOCKS
Many a crowbar has popped open front doors that are protected by a thin piece of wood (door jamb). A cheap upgrade would be adding a high security box strike with long screws. Look for MAG 747 High Security Box Strike model 747-C and stagger your screw pattern.

Install a perforated metal screen security door (a good one, not the cheap/thin aluminum kind). Titan Security doors.
Install a Don-Jo classic wrap around door reinforcer which fits on the door under the deadbolt and door knob to stop the door from splitting.

Secure your patio door with a pin-type lock, a key lock, or a steel rod inserted into the door channel.
Get high security locks for your doors from mfgs such as Sargent, ASSA, Medeco, Schlage Everest Primus. Ignore the Schlage/Kwikset stuff you find at hardware stores. You find good locks at a locksmith shop.

WINDOWS
Make sure all windows have a lock and a dowel rod.
Install security window film such as 3M Scotchshield Safety and Security Films or ShatterGARD. You may also qualify for a tax credit if you do so. Films are pricey ($9.50-$13.25/sq ft) but protect you from the smash & grab methods. Also gives you more time to protect yourself should you be home.

ALARM
Installing a do-it-yourself alarm system can be a great (and taxing) experience for first timers. Ademco (Honeywell) Vista 20P is a popular starting point. You can also get fancy with smartphone control of your alarm system over the internet, although I wouldn't recommend it. Check out www.homesecuritystore.com

You want EVERY door and window alarmed, even upstairs. Glass break sensors and motion sensors are good adds, although glass break detection is less effective if you install security film. You can also find a 3rd party security monitoring central station for much cheaper than ADT/Brinks. Look up Alarm Relay and make sure you install and subscribe to cellular backup. They also let you use cellular as the primary (and only) outbound service. Expect to pay $21/month for that (paid annually).

Wireless alarm systems are susceptible to wireless jamming and keyfob frequency theft (savvy thieves). Run wires if you can.

VIDEO CAMERAS
Cameras are cool and also serve a purpose, but you do have to define what you are after. If you merely want situational awareness over a large area, a low res system works fine (NTSC resolution, 640x480, etc.). If you plan on zooming in and cleaning up like the moves, prepare to be disappointed. If you want to identify faces and the camera is far away from your subject, you will need a megapixel generally. The problem is with megapixel cameras from places like Axis that cost $500+. Who wants to stick that expensive of a camera on the outside of a house?

Ubiquiti Networks just released their AirCam series which is a 720p 30 FPS fixed lens camera. The great thing is they are $90-$100 each which allows you to add a lot more video coverage for the money. The monitor software is free also and so far I'm liking it better than more pro pages (LuxRiot). AirCams will send an RTSP stream in various resolutions of your choosing, so you can play it with VLC, or embed into a web server.

Beware of low light expectations. Most cheap IP cameras will disappoint in low light (including AirCam). External lighting (halogen motion flood lights) serve a dual purpose to giving the camera enough light to pick up an image. Otherwise, you're looking at an IR-sensitive camera with a larger sensor (1/2" vs 1/4" CCD on the cheaper ones) and a mechanical IR-cut filter ($500-800 again).

SAFE
Your safe was stolen. I'm guessing it a) wasn't bolted down, b) wasn't heavy, c) wasn't really a true safe, but a small metal box with some fireproofing (which you can take an axe to). Check out Sturdy Safe which does 7 gauge and thicker all around the box. Get a dial lock so it isn't subject to power outages. Lots of upgrades available (4 gauge on the sides, etc.) A big safe (700+ lbs) will be much m

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[drfreak]

That figures for a city. When I lived in San Francisco I had neighbors which would trip my alarm for fun and quickly made the cops tired of showing up. This is a troublesome catch-22 because when your system actually catches a wolf, nobody cares because they are sick of hearing it. I think in these modern times, an internet-attached system is the way to go because it can notify the owner and give them real-time video and data they need to make an informed decision about whether to actually set off a visible/audble alarm and/or notify the police. Everyone hates false positives!

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[reasterling]

and have a land-line

You do realize that the land lines connect outside the house. It is trivial to disconect the telephone service to a residence (and internet for people like me). Most thieves may be too uneducated to notice, but I would not invest in any security system that relied on something so easily disabled.

Zoneminder

[trschober]

Zoneminder, some ip cameras (wired and/or wireless) and a bunch of infrared lamps for the night

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[black6host]

Regarding CCTV, as others have pointed out, there are a million and a half analog CCTV camera manufacturers, many for

Hmmm, somebody must have stolen his computer mid sentence.....

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[cayenne8]

I'm surprised one of the first things not to be mentioned so far, is the old open source standby ZoneMinder .

I've long wanted to put one of those systems together....looks to be pretty well supported, and works with a pretty large amount of equipment...

Re:Don't be a tightwad

[kidgenius]

Well, I only left that off due to monetary reasons. A GSM add-on can be had, but that's an additional $300.

I'm sorry this happened to you

[inmembr]

A home break in can really shake really your feelings of safety. As surprising as it sounds, the best advice is to not over react. I added metal bars to my doors and windows and cinderblocked up a basement window. This was much to the detriment of the aesthetic value of my house. It sounds likely your doing the right thing by weighing your options.

An informal, non-scientific poll that I also cannot find the reference for said the #1 deterrent for petty thieves was a dog and the #2 deterrent was the idea that the owner had a gun. I agree with all of the above comments that state that you should learn how to shoot and keep your gun safe. The most likely person to be shot with your gun is you or your family, and it's important to mitigate that risk.

Check with your local police and fire in regards to home monitoring. In Philadelphia, the police won't respond to a monitoring service unless the alarm is "validated" by a third party. The big guys here, ADT and comcast both hire private security companies to validate a break in or fire. That means it takes > 25 minutes before the police are even contacted.

Depending on your comfort level you can install either a wired/wireless home voltage system with IP self-monitoring with Android/Iphone/PC connectivity. If the alarm is tripped a loud siren sounds and you immediately get a text, email, call, whatever. Here's the home IP self-monitoring system I use: http://eyez-on.com./ The device costs around 100 dollars, and there are no additional charges. The more sophisticated options can be a little pricey.

You can also set and disarm your alarm and program the alarm from a PC or smartphone, which is super useful. Most of the IP monitoring devices also support outputing a feed to a central monitoring company. Since you own the hardware, the monitoring is around 10 dollars a month instead of 50, and you're not locked into a contract and can easily change providers. Most IP options also integrate reasonably well with your web cams.

DSC, GE, Honeywell, and Elk all make easy DIY kits that include most of what you'll need. Prices range from 80 to > 700 dollars. I'd advise getting a normal wired main panel and then spending the extra 40 bucks for a wireless keypad so you can run as few wires as possible but still have a fairly reliable system. I spent around 350 for the kit and ip monitoring device for a 2300 sqr foot home. I purchased DSC equipment (it's the least expensive and most widely compatible), and used http://homesecuritystore.com/ and http://safemart.com/ both seem like decent vendors in my experience

As far as web cams, I have 2 D-Link DCS-932L cameras. One in a weatherproof box at my front door and one which sees my entire ground floor. I initially had 2 generations of Linksys cams, but their wireless connection was spotty. No issues thus far with the D-Links (3+ months)

If my alarm goes off, myself, my wife, my father, and a trustworthy friend all get monitoring alerts and the webcam feed. Any of us can call the police and report a true alarm based on the live camera feed.

Again, I'm sorry this happened to you. I hope your feeling of safety in your home hasn't been completely shaken. Take any reasonable step to make yourself and your sig other feel safe in your home, but do your best not to over-react.

Another vote for zoneminder

[jbov]

I've used both Zoneminder and Bluecherry DVR v2 with analog and network cameras.