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Ask Slashdot: Dealing With Electrostatic Contamination?

interval1066 writes "I've generally made it a practice to blow the dust out of my devices 1) when I remember to do so 2) after about 3 or so years of use 3) when I can get inside the case. My monitor is very thin and difficult to open. When I did finally crack it open I didn't really notice a whole lot of dust, but I blew the thing out anyway and put it back together, and it's doing ok, as far as I can tell. I'd be interested in knowing other Slashdotters' experiences with maintaining their devices in this way and where possible. And I actually extending the life of my devices, or am I just wasting my time?"

197 comments

  1. For the most part by maxdamage · · Score: 4, Insightful

    For the most part I find that only devices that have forced air cooling, aka fans, have issues with dust. And in those cases it is defiantly a good idea to clean them out regularly as overheating is defiantly an issue with enough dust accumulation. You would be amazed the amount of dust that will accumulate in a PC, even after a few years. In the case of computer cases you can get filters that help a lot however you need to make sure you clean the filters out or you will just be making the situation worse.

    1. Re:For the most part by Rob+Riggs · · Score: 5, Funny

      in those cases it is defiantly a good idea to clean them out regularly

      I defiantly clean out all of my electronics, voiding warranties left and right.

      --
      the growth in cynicism and rebellion has not been without cause
    2. Re:For the most part by ganjadude · · Score: 1

      on another note, I have gotten PCS over the years that were working but loaded with dust. cleaning it out actually caused them to stop working, most likely due to static. Regularly cleaning them is the best idea (for a PC) but sometimes if it gets REALLY bad, its better to just leave it, in my experience anyway

      --
      have you seen my sig? there are many others like it but none that are the same
    3. Re:For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Find me a warranty that is voided by blowing canned air into a vent.

    4. Re:For the most part by Synerg1y · · Score: 1

      Nice play on the spelling error.

      Unfortunately, TFA is still moronic. The value of the component, monetary and sentimental, as well as frequency of use, should be suggestive of the level of care for it.

    5. Re:For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      You would be amazed the amount of dust that will accumulate in a PC, even after a few years.

      Even after a few years, yea. As opposed to the few decades or few centuries that we usually keep our PCs around for.
      (or, conversely)
      Even after a few years, yea. I mean the amount of dust at first is just astounding, but you'd figure since it decreases over time, after a few years it would be pretty much gone.

    6. Re:For the most part by omnichad · · Score: 2

      What did you use to blast the dust out? Some vacuums and air compressors generate too much static electricity for cleaning dust with.

    7. Re:For the most part by BattleApple · · Score: 2

      Canned air? I use 120 psi from an air compressor. I wonder if the fan is rated for 10,000 rpm.
      And if you're blowing air into a vent without taking the device apart, all you're really doing is distributing the dust evenly inside the case.. and you're not going to get at everything.

    8. Re:For the most part by Dogtanian · · Score: 2

      I have gotten PCS over the years that were working but loaded with dust. cleaning it out actually caused them to stop working, most likely due to static.

      As the other person commented already, vacuum cleaners are likely to create a lot of static, as they have plastic parts and lots of static-inducing movement of motors. Did you actually touch the board etc. with the nozzle of the vacuum?

      I'd consider blowing or sucking high pressure air from a vacuum cleaner (or similar) into a computer case with the nozzle at a moderate (safe) distance from physical contact. (Maybe even *that* is a crap idea). But I sure as hell *wouldn't* want to be actually poking the nozzle around in there, banging it against the board as I tried to get the dust out of the corners and the like(!)

      --
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    9. Re:For the most part by AK+Marc · · Score: 2

      It doesn't decrease over time. I worked on a computer in a factory environment. The intake fans would suck in dusty air. The flow within the case would cause areas of stall (lots of airflow in at the fans, then much much less as the air channel expanded, allowing settlement of the sediment). The result was about 2" of dust in the bottom of a computer less than 5 years old. I was working on it because the tape drive failed. I didn't work on the tape drive itself, but I can only imagine it was particulate matter that caused the failure. But one drive every 5 years is much cheaper than actually addressing the problem of a computer in a dusty environment (through separation or external filters), and was nearing the end of its projected life anyway.

    10. Re:For the most part by oldhack · · Score: 1

      Funny, I just had a motherboard zapped, and it looked to have been due to dust buildup that let out a static discharge causing short somewhere on the board.

      Perhaps modern computer cases with all these fans, housing modern boards crammed ever so tightly with surface-mounted components and funky-looking heat sink/radiators, make them more susceptible to such incidents.

      So now I'm with maxdamage's post. Things without fan, just wipe the dust outside. Things with multiple fans, like computer (including laptop) cases, opening up and cleaning out the dust periodically might be a good preventative measure.

      --
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    11. Re:For the most part by Dr_Barnowl · · Score: 2

      The rubbing of the air against the insulating plastic nozzle is what causes the static AFAIK.

      You can get special vacuums with conductive nozzles that don't accumulate static, but I just tend to just use canned air these days.

    12. Re:For the most part by ganjadude · · Score: 1

      air blaster from office depot usually

      --
      have you seen my sig? there are many others like it but none that are the same
    13. Re:For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It doesn't decrease over time. I worked on a computer in a factory environment. The intake fans would suck in dusty air.

      Would they also make a whooshing sound?

    14. Re:For the most part by craigminah · · Score: 1

      Hehehe...don't think they caught what you did...I was thinking of something clever then I gave up when I read your post. Touche!

    15. Re:For the most part by Synerg1y · · Score: 2

      What works for me is... I vacuum weekly or at least I try, I tend to grab the dust off the fronts of the air fan vents weekly while doing this, and then every once in a great while I'll dust the inside, the former activity extends the duration of not doing the latter, which involves me unplugging a ton of shit and going outside.

      I don't have time anymore, but I used to do stuff like take off the heatsink to run it under some water since dust likes to stick to it and not come off from air. I use an after market soft brush on my vacuum, never had any problems w static, and my carpet is stat-icky.

      My timeframe for internal dusting tends to be about once every 1/2 year or so, depending on what I see or don't inside.

    16. Re:For the most part by whoever57 · · Score: 2

      Canned air? I use 120 psi from an air compressor. I wonder if the fan is rated for 10,000 rpm.

      I hope you have a filter in the line. Otherwise you could be blowing oil or moisture from the compressor into your devices! But yeah, it's great listening to how quickly those fans spin.

      --
      The real "Libtards" are the Libertarians!
    17. Re:For the most part by EdZ · · Score: 4, Funny

      Clean the fan? Easier said than done.

    18. Re:For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0, Informative

      defiantly? Really? And don't tell me it's a typo, beceause you used it twice.

      The word is definitely. Just because your spellcheck don't flash doesn't mean you spelled everything correctly.

    19. Re:For the most part by mrmeval · · Score: 1

      I agree. I would add that a lot of consumer electronics makes no effort to allow the user to prevent dust and dirt contamination. I've installed heat exchanger boxes for PCs used in industrial environments. They have dry chilled filtered air pumped in though they may or may not have air flow or thermal monitoring they usually don't need it.

      I've done something similar for a home theater server and equipment setup using a dedicated room which has a partition that holds an AC unit and hepafilter for incoming air. It works very well but it needs a temperature and airflow monitor which can shut things down and notify you of problems.

      Monitors are harder and I have no good solution for those other than cleaning but newer ones can be of a destructive open type, the plastic is designed to be destroyed when opened and the maker would just replace it as it's cheap to them. Those require some ingenuity to reassemble but I usually can get them back together without either buying new plastic if available or creating an enclosure. I've cleaned and replaced the capacitors and backlights in a good 100 monitors and counting. I also have cleaned and replaced the capacitors on a pile of motherboards though fortunately for customers the quality of motherboards is getting somewhat better.

      --
      I'd go on a Vegan diet but the delivery time from Vega is too long. --brownkitty
    20. Re:For the most part by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      Wooooossssh

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
    21. Re:For the most part by anubi · · Score: 4, Interesting

      You ain't kidding about the air compressor. Mine is so oily it makes a mess to "clean" anything with it, but the pneumatic tools it was designed to power love the oil in the airstream. Its often the only lubrication they get.

      My favorite cleaning tool is the 20-pound cylinder of CO2 and regulator I bought primarily to carbonate home made soda pop. I used a standard stainless-steel screw-in tire valve mounted in the cap of a PET 2-liter soda bottle as a carbonation vessel. 70 PSI. The tire fitting also lets me fill car, bike, and other tires from the cylinder. A modified basketball needle ( end ground off ) lets me direct a concentrated flow of 70PSI CO2 to clean out electronic things, and it does a damm good job.

      You get a LOT of CO2 for your buck. CO2 is a liquid in the state it is sold. By my calculations, I bought enough CO2 to carbonate a swimming pool full of water. That's several years worth of soda-pop for me.

      I paid around $14 for 20 pounds of it ( not including the tank ). Contaminant-free CO2. From what I understand, the companies out there are condensing this from CO2 rich sources. If I did not buy any, it just gets released into the air anyway, so whether or not I pay them to condense some for me makes no difference in the grand scheme of things. Now, if I had bought freon for this purpose, I would be making a market for a deliberately manufactured gas currently suspected of causing destruction of the ozone layer. For my purposes, the CO2 works every bit as good.

      Do it outside.

      You don't want to risk a CO2 leak in the shop. Its quite an asphyxiant, and there is a lot of gas by volume in a cylinder ( the cylinder is full of liquid CO2 at around 500 to 1500 psi depending on temperature ).

      You can get CO2 at welding supply shops, as welders like to use this stuff to keep oxygen away from their welds ( especially around things like fuel tanks. A fuel tank purged with CO2 during a nearby weld is a helluva lot safer to weld around... ).

      --
      "Prove all things; hold fast that which is good." [KJV: I Thessalonians 5:21]

    22. Re: For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Thank you so much for your comment. I had never heard of this word before, "definitely". I shall add it to my repertoire.

      Keep up the good work.

    23. Re:For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The proper suggestion for this fellow is actually the inverse. Clean your computer with compressed oil, and be careful not to spray air all over the parts. :)

      Some people (and even large data centers) submerge computers ( and servers) in oil. It doesn't transfer charges, it repels moisture, and it's more effective at heat dissipation than air.

    24. Re:For the most part by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 1

      "For the most part I find that only devices that have forced air cooling, aka fans, have issues with dust."

      Nonsense. Anything that generates a high voltage can have problems with dust. Have you ever cleaned the interior of an old CRT-style television?

      And monitors with fluorescent backlights (the majority of them until recently, and even many newer ones) generate high voltages.

    25. Re:For the most part by kermidge · · Score: 2

      For a PC, turn the power off, leave the cord in place - it's grounded. Ground yourself to the case - an anti-static wrist snap works well. In the interest of maybe over-done prudence I don't let the vacuum cleaner nozzle touch the innards. Seems to work well. Do not let the fans spin freely. After the vacuuming, one might then use an air compressor - filtered - to blow out the rest of the dust, especially handy for PSUs.

      For CRT monitors, compressed air is good IFF it's dry air - you don't want water or oil getting on stuff. I reckon that removing dust from caps and transformers, all the other stuff lessens trapped heat, prolonging the life of the parts. But it's largely by guess and by gosh, backed up with a bit of published research found by tedious searching, and common sense.

    26. Re:For the most part by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

      Sure. Just about anything is better at heat dissipation than air. That's why we use it as an insulator. Of course in computers, we use these fancy things called fans, which cycles the air around, and makes it just wonderful for cooling things. Of course that oil is too viscous to do such things without specially designed containers, so anything with more power draw than a smartphone is just going to sit there and cook.

    27. Re:For the most part by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      Canned air? I use 120 psi from an air compressor. I wonder if the fan is rated for 10,000 rpm.
      And if you're blowing air into a vent without taking the device apart, all you're really doing is distributing the dust evenly inside the case.. and you're not going to get at everything.

      You know that when DC motors spin they generate electricity, right? ...and your fan motor is connected to your motherboard.

      --
      No sig today...
    28. Re:For the most part by TheLink · · Score: 5, Funny

      You get a LOT of CO2 for your buck. CO2 is a liquid in the state it is sold. By my calculations, I bought enough CO2 to carbonate a swimming pool full of water.

      How much does it cost to carbonate a swimming pool and what is a good way to do it?

      --
    29. Re:For the most part by SpinyManiac · · Score: 2

      Canned air? I use 120 psi from an air compressor. I wonder if the fan is rated for 10,000 rpm.
      And if you're blowing air into a vent without taking the device apart, all you're really doing is distributing the dust evenly inside the case.. and you're not going to get at everything.

      You know that when DC motors spin they generate electricity, right? ...and your fan motor is connected to your motherboard.

      You know that when DC motors spin they generate electricity, right? ...and your fan motor is connected to your motherboard.

      PC fans use brushless motors, which don't do that.

      --
      It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
    30. Re:For the most part by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      so anything with more power draw than a smartphone is just going to sit there and cook.

      Fry, surely?

    31. Re:For the most part by RobertLTux · · Score: 1

      better trick to use is

      1 get a spare extension cord a knife and a roll of blue electrical tape

      2 cut the jacket open on your cord somewhere in the middle (where it will be noticed if you are on either end)

      3 then very carefully cut the HOT and Neutral lines and remove about 2 inches of the hot line and 3 inches of the Neutral line
      (note DO NOT CUT THE GROUND/EARTHING LINE)

      4 fold back all four ends enough to bind them with tape (cover the bare wire)

      5 tape the jacket shut

      You now have a cord that is guaranteed to pass exactly 00.00000 volts on the hot or neutral lines no matter how much voltage is at the wall socket.

      fun fact unless you have a kill switch on the PSU there is always voltage on the board

      --
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    32. Re:For the most part by BattleApple · · Score: 1

      I don't actually do that.. I was kidding. It would also be bad for the fan bushings or bearings. I'm curious now though.. I'm going to hook one up to a scope and see what comes out of it. I think it would generate AC because of the lack of a commutator

    33. Re:For the most part by kermidge · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the fine tip. I use the kill switch on the PSU; if it hasn't one, I unplug and ground to the, um, ground. I hope I'm not doing it wrongly; any rate, been lucky so far.

    34. Re:For the most part by TheLink · · Score: 1

      I actually do want to know. Wonder if it'll make a good Ask Slashdot question.

      I guess diving into a very fizzy pool might not cause a much bigger splash than normal based on this: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xen3mc_human-fizz-bomb-large-scale-mentos_tech

      --
    35. Re:For the most part by MrKaos · · Score: 1

      Canned air? I use 120 psi from an air compressor.

      120psi is too much pressure for many motherboards abd drives, I've ruined motherboards and drives with this much pressure - just be careful is all I'm saying. Now a days I don't set my compressor any higher than 80psi for a computer cleaning job.

      I wonder if the fan is rated for 10,000 rpm.

      It isn't and the lubrication on the bearings will burn at that speed. Usually I use a screwdriver, inserted into the fan to stop it from spinning as I have also destroyed fans in perfectly good power supplies and CPU coolers doing this. Aside from that you can get the dust off the fan better when it is still.

      But it does sound cool!

      And if you're blowing air into a vent without taking the device apart, all you're really doing is distributing the dust evenly inside the case.. and you're not going to get at everything.

      Absolutely right, you don't have to take the power supply apart but if you don't open the case your wasting your time.

      I've had great results with the lifespan of systems this way (7-10 years) and the opposite from systems that wern't maintained (1-3 years), so from that perspective it's been great. I've found some dust is conductive and some corrosive so I usually clean them every 6 months to a 1 year as it gets dusty and humid where I live. Also done for systems I maintain that can afford the downtime and generally I wear a dust mask so I don't breath all that crap in.

      Doing the cleaning up on a windy day is good too as the dust gets carried away quickly. After that you can give the fans a little spray lubricant and the systems are much quieter as well.

      YMMV

      --
      My ism, it's full of beliefs.
    36. Re:For the most part by metaforest · · Score: 1

      PC fans use brushless motors [wikipedia.org], which don't do that.

      What a silly thing to say. DC Fan motors (BLDC motors that you linked to) most certainly do act as generators when spun from an external prime-mover. HINT: they have permanent magnets in the rotor. They also have protection circuits to prevent damage to their drive transistors from 'free-wheeling' them... even at high RPM. The only damage you could do to one is to the bearings or causing a fracture of the rotor due to excessive RPM.

      What you may be referring to are AC motors. Which have no magnets, and require current flowing in both the rotor and stator to generate torque. ProTip: Alternators work this way as well. The output of the alternator is regulated by the current applied to a 'field coil' which may be either on the rotor or stator. IIRC the rotor is usually the field coil as that makes the alternator cheaper to build.

    37. Re:For the most part by metaforest · · Score: 1

      sorry to reply to myself... but a slight qualification:

      The GP was concerned about current flowing back into the mother board from a air-spun BLDC cooling fan. While the typical fan will not do this due to the protection circuits that keep the BLDC motor driver electronics from being fried by 'free-wheeling' DON'T COUNT ON IT. It is entirely possible for a poorly designed BLDC drive to push current back to the motherboard if the protection circuits have been damaged.

      It is not an inherent feature of BLDC drivers to prevent current from flowing back to the rails when free-wheeling. This must be designed into the driver competently.

    38. Re:For the most part by anubi · · Score: 2

      I would hate to have to build the pressure vessel that would hold a swimming pool full of water. That would be a good question for a pressure vessel engineer that designs reactor vessels for oil refineries. When I see how much CO2 I used to carbonate my bottle of soda pop, I extrapolated the ratio and that is the rough approximation of how much water 20 pounds of CO2 would carbonate.

      I guess you could carbonate the pool by drawing a continuous stream of water, pressurizing it to 70-100 PSI, injecting CO2, slowly release the pressure, then release the water back into the pool. It would have to be a cold pool, though... warm water will not carbonate worth a hoot. ( as anyone who has left a carbonated beverage at room temperature can attest to ). Basically, you have just made a huge soda fountain.

      Incidentally, CO2 is not the only gas that dissolves in cold water. Methane will too. Forms something called "Clathrates". Methane Hydrate crystals. Burning rocks. One can find these in deepwater cold areas and amongst permafrost. One of the fears of climatic scientists is that as the earth warms up, these clathrates will lose the methane back to a gas which will accelerate the greenhouse process. I understand the Japanese are already going for clathrate mining to fuel their industry.

      --
      "Prove all things; hold fast that which is good." [KJV: I Thessalonians 5:21]

    39. Re:For the most part by rioki · · Score: 1

      True, you need to design them properly, but the heating parts will drive convection, which in turn suck in new cooler oil.

    40. Re:For the most part by BattleApple · · Score: 1

      I should have made it more clear that I kidding about the 120 psi (sort of) I do use an air compressor, but at a distance where it's not going to damage anything.
      You're right about the bearings.. When I was 19, this was drilled into my head when I was in school to be an aircraft mechanic. All the instructors were adamant about not spinning things with the air compressors when drying off parts. Of course, kids would do it anyway, and occasionally get kicked out of class for the day.

    41. Re:For the most part by MrKaos · · Score: 1

      I should have made it more clear that I kidding about the 120 psi (sort of) I do use an air compressor, but at a distance where it's not going to damage anything. You're right about the bearings.. When I was 19, this was drilled into my head when I was in school to be an aircraft mechanic. All the instructors were adamant about not spinning things with the air compressors when drying off parts. Of course, kids would do it anyway, and occasionally get kicked out of class for the day.

      I'd do it too if I was a kid - it sounds cool!!!

      --
      My ism, it's full of beliefs.
  2. Once every three months or so by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    About how often you should be cleaning out your fridge, too. Don't tell me you only do it once a year!

    1. Re:Once every three months or so by HornWumpus · · Score: 2, Funny

      I was given a ration of shit by a girl I know.

      She found a jar of chutney in my fridge fully 10 years past it's expiration date. Still smelled fine.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    2. Re:Once every three months or so by Marxist+Hacker+42 · · Score: 0
      --
      SJW: a person who perceives an injustice, and while correcting it, commits a greater injustice.
    3. Re:Once every three months or so by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

      I smelled chutnet a full year before it expired and it didn't smell fine ...

    4. Re:Once every three months or so by BattleApple · · Score: 2

      Once I grabbed a carton of cream from the fridge, and when I went to pour it, nothing came out. It was completely solidified. I was confused because it was still 2 weeks before the expiration date. Of course, they don't include the year in the exp. date.. I just happened to grab it about one year after I bought it.

  3. Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Gothmolly · · Score: 4, Insightful

    You, and the Slashdot editors that posted this, are wasting everyone's time with this question. What's next, an Ask Slashdot for shaking crumbs and pubes out of your keyboard?

    --
    I want to delete my account but Slashdot doesn't allow it.
    1. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Sparticus789 · · Score: 2

      I believe there is something much more disgusting and sinister lurking within the keyboards of the Slashdot community. And I, for one, would love to know how to unclog my keyboard of said substance.

      --
      sudo make me a sandwich
    2. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Slashdot now equals Yahoo Answers.

    3. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Hi,

      I just spit coffee all over my monitor after reading your post along with the summary to which you responded to.

      My question for Slashdotters is, would it be OK to use a paper towel to clean up the mess? While I've heard that paper products aren't the best thing to use on monitor screens, I don't have any clean rags available, and thought I perhaps could make an exception in this case because my monitor is the property of my employer.

      - AC

    4. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by X0563511 · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Dear Slashdot:

      I heard you could hide Ask Slashdot stories from my home page. Is this true?

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
    5. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by LateArthurDent · · Score: 4, Insightful

      You, and the Slashdot editors that posted this, are wasting everyone's time with this question. What's next, an Ask Slashdot for shaking crumbs and pubes out of your keyboard?

      Let me get this straight. You read an article you don't like, take the time to go into the comments and post how much you don't like the question. Then you accuse others of wasting YOUR time.

      Doesn't seem like your time is particularly valuable, so I don't see why anyone should feel bad about wasting it. I'm wasting my time responding to you, but at least I'm taking responsibility for wasting it myself. I could have just as easily ignored it if I deemed my time was more valuable. Perhaps you should have done that with this article.

    6. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

      With a headline of "dealing with electrostatic contamination" I was prepared for something along the lines of someone who has issues of constantly discharging static electricity, perhaps affecting a DIY clean room they're building or their workplace. Instead it's a fucking question about dust in a computer.

    7. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's called "feedback". Chill the butthurt.

    8. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by poofmeisterp · · Score: 1

      I'm wasting my time responding to you, but at least I'm taking responsibility for wasting it myself. I could have just as easily ignored it if I deemed my time was more valuable. Perhaps you should have done that with this article.

      At least you openly take responsibility instead of hiding behind the anonymous curtains. I'll +1 beer that.

    9. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Trolls modding each other insightful, what else is new?

    10. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by dyingtolive · · Score: 2

      To be fair, if I had a question about getting crumbs and pubes out of my keyboard, I feel like Slashdot would be the perfect place to take it.

      I don't know if that means I have bad judgement or if Slashdot expanded the Idle section to be the only thing on the website. Given that I've only melted three keyboards getting aformentioned crumbs and pubes out of the keyboard, I'm guessing it's probably the latter. Yeah, definitely the latter.

      --
      Support the EFF and Creative Commons. The war is coming, and they're supporting you...
    11. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by dyingtolive · · Score: 1

      If you care about something enough to not want to see it turn to crap, you have to exert effort on that thing to let it know when it's being crap.

      --
      Support the EFF and Creative Commons. The war is coming, and they're supporting you...
    12. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Neuroelectronic · · Score: 1

      The substance isn't in your keyboard, it's in the botnet

    13. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by LateArthurDent · · Score: 1

      If you care about something enough to not want to see it turn to crap, you have to exert effort on that thing to let it know when it's being crap.

      The problem is that you don't know if other people think it's crap. You're assuming your opinion is the important one. I'm tired of this attitude.

      If an article is crap, and it doesn't get enough views, slashdot editors will take notice, because it hurts their bottom line. If you think an article is crap, but other people are viewing it, then it's just not for you. Either way, whether it's legitimately crap, or just not to your tastes, the solution is to just not participate and wait for an article you do enjoy.

    14. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Nefarious+Wheel · · Score: 1

      Keyboards are cheaper than your time spent cleaning them.

      --
      Do not mock my vision of impractical footwear
    15. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What's next, an Ask Slashdot for shaking crumbs and pubes out of your keyboard?

      Pubes? How did you get pubes... Err... Congratulations on completing that post, please don't tell us what you used to type it.

    16. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by dyingtolive · · Score: 1

      I wouldn't say that you're assuming your opinion is the important one, merely just as important as everyone else posting. The moderators determine whether it is the important one.

      The question then becomes which is more effective to "teach" Slashdot that we think the article/question is crap, posting directly saying it (which still builds pagecount) or ignoring it altogether. You may be on to something though.

      --
      Support the EFF and Creative Commons. The war is coming, and they're supporting you...
    17. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by 50000BTU_barbecue · · Score: 1

      I was going to ask how to get keyboards and crumbs out of my pubes, but now you've made me nervous about asking. Thanks a lot.

      --
      Mostly random stuff.
    18. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Old+Wolf · · Score: 3, Insightful

      You, and the Slashdot editors that posted this, are wasting everyone's time with this question. What's next, an Ask Slashdot for shaking crumbs and pubes out of your keyboard?

      Don't be an ass. The question is whether cleaning dust out of a PC actually makes a difference or not. (or even whether it's harmful). Since most people don't do it and their PCs continue to work; and it's possible to give a component a static shock while trying to clean it, the question is reasonable.

    19. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      I never bothered to register an account, you ineffective clod!

    20. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by laejoh · · Score: 1

      A best practice has been written already.

    21. Re:Not your time, ALL OUR TIME by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not good ones

  4. Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Wrap all your connectors with Teflon tape commonly used in plumbing.
    It is thin and an excellent isolator easy to apply to to most electrical connectors.

    1. Re:Teflon tap by HornWumpus · · Score: 5, Funny

      Also clean your PCI/PCIe/ram slots with fine steel wool to prevent oxidation buildup. Run you CPU through the dishwasher on 'pots and pans' to clean slow electrons out of infrequently used data paths.

      Use a mixture of bleach and ammonia for fast and easy cleanup (of the gene pool).

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    2. Re:Teflon tap by ArcadeMan · · Score: 2, Informative

      Trolling aside, I've found that the best way to clean those ISA/PCI/AGP connectors is a white "STAEDTLER" eraser.

    3. Re:Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Run you CPU through the dishwasher on 'pots and pans' to clean slow electrons out of infrequently used data paths.

      You'd be surprised.

      Modern CPUs (by which I mean socket 370 PIII and forwards) are pretty resilient. I regularly wash off CPUs in the sink with mild dish soap to get old thermal grease off them (grease is grease, after all). Just make sure you dry them off with compressed air afterwards. Other techs freak the fuck out when they see this, but it's actually pretty safe and I've done it to a couple dozen chips over the course of my career and have yet to experience a failure. It's even easier these days due to the pins (the only fragile part) being on the board now.

    4. Re:Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      A now retired old timer in our company used to "refurbish" old printers, by disassembling them and cleaning all parts (electronics inclusive) in the dishwasher. Believe it or not, most of the times the print quality increased after his treatments.

      As a side not he also recorverd some harddisks by placing them in the fridge to cool shaky electronics. Or his solution to dual boot was also quite unique: Use two IDE harddrives and wire up the master-slave jumper pins to a dual switch, so you could physically change the master-slave jumpers with the switch.

      In hindsight he was also a great cook, so that's probably why he used a lot of kitchen appliances in IT:)

    5. Re:Teflon tap by GoogleShill · · Score: 2

      Just make sure you've discharged any static in your body before putting the CPU into the water. I routinely walk across the kitchen to a running faucet and get shocked just by touching the grounded water stream. That discharge could easily travel across the chip and ruin it.

    6. Re:Teflon tap by Dogtanian · · Score: 1

      As a side not he also recorverd some harddisks by placing them in the fridge to cool shaky electronics.

      This one is actually quite a common tip for faulty HDDs, believe it or not, albeit with most versions I've heard recommending the freezer (and an appropriately sealed bag), not the fridge.

      --
      "Slashdot - News and Chat Sites Deviant". (Click "homepage" link above for details).
    7. Re:Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      For someone beginner reading this, never put thermal paste between the CPU and the socket. Only between the CPU and the heatsink.

    8. Re:Teflon tap by craigminah · · Score: 1

      I was upgrading ye olde Amiga 1000 from 68000 to 68010 and when I was done I realized I left the power on the whole time. Funny thing is it worked like a champ.

    9. Re:Teflon tap by kevmeister · · Score: 2
      When I worked in instrument services at a major research lab a few decades ago, the standard for cleaning electronic instruments was an industrial dishwasher. After washing in detergent and low-conductivity water, the instruments were dried in a drying oven (moderately low temperature with high airflow). That was it. Only exceptions were things with CRTs or paper capacitors. Scopes with CRTs removed were cleaned that way. Amazingly, soap and water (low conductivity) don't really cause problems with most electronics.

      Obviously steel wool is a non-starter and I'll leave the bleach and ammonia to others at the shallow end f the gene pool.

      --
      Kevin Oberman, Network Engineer, Retired
    10. Re:Teflon tap by Pieroxy · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Trolling aside, I've found that the best way to clean those ISA/PCI/AGP connectors is to leave them alone alltogether.

    11. Re:Teflon tap by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      Fine steel wool over an expansion slot is fiendish.

      Afterwards put it all together and power it up. It won't boot. Turn it off/on again until it boots. (it's burning steel wool fibers with each turn on).

      Now it is a seismograph. It registers the most tiny vibrations by crashing.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    12. Re:Teflon tap by HornWumpus · · Score: 0

      But do use the ammonia/beach mix. It's such a great cleaning solution, you will want a bunch, so use large containers.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    13. Re:Teflon tap by wierd_w · · Score: 2

      This depends.

      Assuming the unit is in a nice, clean, and properly maintained environment, there should never be any reason to do anythiing at all to a card edge connector, or to its slot.

      However, people are fucking slobs, and put computers in places they should never be placed. They suck in all kinds of horrible filth, and some very "interesting" (from a chemical standpoint) things can happen.

      One noteworthy one I encountered more than once when I did professional PC repair, was the "disgusting oily film" buildup that happens when computers are kept in filthy bedrooms, dormatories, or around pets (dogs especially). This "funk", for lack of a better word, coats everything inside, causes dirt to adhere, is mildly corrosive in and of itself, and causes a kind of "organic patina" to form on edge connectors and ports.

      That shit is nasty, and chemically binds to the metal, altering the conductivity of the edge connector pad, and causing very intermittent and irritating problems.

      RAM is especially susceptible to "funk" buildup, and can cause some really irritating and difficult to reproduce/diagnose errors.

      I found that a white vinyl eraser (made for archival paper, acid free, pumice free) on card edges can safely and efficiently clean the funk off. Just do so gently, and with slow motions to avoid static exchanges on the card's contact pads.

      Usually, cleaning the card edge is enough. Occasionally though, the "funk" contamination is so extreme (literally, it is fucking "sticky and brown" inside! Blch!) That you will be presented with having to decide between telling the customer that their fucking filthy living conditions have ruined their computer and that they need a new one, (and for whatever reason, the people to which this applies are always dead ass broke and can't afford such a solution) or you have to grit your teeth, put on some nitrile gloves, and gently clean the slots as well in order for anything to fucking work even half-assedly.

      In case of the latter, you offer to attempt cleaning under the firmly and fully understood condition that this is not something that can be waranteed, is dangerous, and can totally hose the computer permanently. Literally, at this point the options are replacement, or hairbrained cleaning, with the slim prospect that a few more months or years of service can be squeezed out. Eg, the system is beyond normal help, the preferred solution is replacement, but if they can't afford that, this is the only alternative, and that you won't do warantee work if it fails later, and that you refuse to be held liable for damages. If they agree, then you can proceed. Otherwise close it up and send them on their merry way with their box of filth.

      In the unfortunate event that they agree to those terms, you can half-assedly clean a PCI slot with one of those cellulose sponge business cards. (Essentially a tightly pressed dry cellulose sponge, cut to the size of a businss card, and printed as such. They are a novelty product, but are also conveniently the right combination of chemical free mild abrasive, nonconductive, disposable, and correct thickness.) This process can only be performed once. It is not something I ever suggest doing, because PCI slots are precision made, and jamming things in there is simply not smart. Again, this is only for a system where it has been determined it is beyond normal help, and in all seriousness should be at a recycling center, and not your repair shop, and where everyone involved knows painfully well that this is a kludge to squeeze a few more hours out of it, and nothing else.

      Ram slots are even more sensitive. Before cleaning, remove the cpu from the socket. Leave the board plugged in, but turned off. Cross your fingers, and pray to whatever deity you feel most appropriate. If you have to clean the ram slot, it is almost assuredly a lost cause anyway.

      I have actually revived many machines this way, which is quite surprising. Many more than were killed by the attempt. Again, not recommended. Only for ex

    14. Re:Teflon tap by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      That's cigarette smoke you're cleaning off. Dog/cat funk is mostly dander.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    15. Re:Teflon tap by wierd_w · · Score: 1

      In some cases, yes. In others... No. Not when the whole inside of the case smells like wet dog. Tobacco film doesn't smell like that. Personal experience is that "dog funk" happens when the PC owner has one of those nasty long haired little toy dogs, and puts the pet bed for said dog right there next to the PC on the floor. Intake ports get clogged with pet hair, and nasty dog smelling oily filth builds up inside.

      Cats usually just have hair and dander. Dogs make oil. It's nasty. Don't let your dog lounge around next to running computers. Please.

      Also, regular use of a deep fryer greatly increases the chances of a "funk" related failure. Please avoid creating hazy fogs of volatized cooking oil in your house.

    16. Re:Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I smoke, and I've seen gunk and dust you wouldn't believe. Alcohol and q-tips are all it ever takes to clean off. Not knowing what the gunk is in somebody else's computer would be disgusting, but have you ever cleaned a bathroom before? Nothing in the history of computing goo compares to what cleaning a shower drain is like.

      Quit whining.

    17. Re:Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Mixing ammonia and bleach creates a TOXIC GAS. Trolling with dangerous misinformation is slimy. Please do not do it.

      [ The captcha was "conspire." There is no big conspiracy. Trust us. ]

    18. Re:Teflon tap by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      If the ammonia/bleach mix doesn't clean it up. Try heating the thing up then breaking an old school mercury thermometer over it.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    19. Re:Teflon tap by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      When ATI form factor mother boards were new I once had a 'hacking' incident where my computer mysteriously turned itself off. It was newly technically possible. I sat there contemplating how I had to pave over the machine because I didn't know what software was doing it or how the machine had become infected, when my labweiler walked up for some attention wagging the whole back half of his body. His tail hit the hard power switch.

      I basically live in a dog/cat resort. I've never seen 'dog oil' on anything. Then again I have big dogs and semi-feral cats.

      They sell screens to put over your pans when you fry food.

      I once walked into a remote dusty/dirty location with a old Netmare server. I heard the old MFM drive bearings from 100 feet away through a fire door. It ran long enough to get a final backup but never spun up again. That was the dirtiest machine I've ever seen. Easy 3/4 inch of dust in the case.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    20. Re:Teflon tap by wierd_w · · Score: 1

      I dont know what the substance is with any real certainty. From personal experience, the same substance coats the walls and other surfaces of their living space as well, and they tend to have unholy disgusting and filthy houses.

      (After digging around on the internet, I found a picture from somebody's blog that was dealing with it on a flipped house. Pic) It could be niccotine/tobacco related, but it actually binds permanently with metal, requiring something like brasso to remove it if you use chemicals, or lots of elbow grease and an abrasive cleansing pad otherwise. Since you cant use chemical cleansers of that sort inside a computer (unless you are an idiot)-- you have to go the physically abrasive method, and be patient. I did repair work for 4 years, and have seen this substance perhaps, 20 times, with differing levels of severity. Only about 3 times in the "OMG! WHAT IS IT!?" level of contamination. Dust is not dust in such computers. It is more like thick tar. Again, there is a correlation with old, and or seriously dirty/disgusting low income housing.

      I suspect that it is a combination of skin oils, old lacquer resins, vaporized cooking oils, and the like, and that the dog's proximity just allows the oil based dog smell to stick really good.. but i really dont know for sure. I just know it is not good for computers or electronics in general.

    21. Re:Teflon tap by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      In at least one data point (my own) I now believe the older housing part is more spot on.

      I have no pets, do not smoke, and other than having longer hair do not have any particularly bad hygiene habits.
      The house I rent however was built in 1890 and was not only coated with that same stuff when I moved in, but in the 10+ years I've been here I've noticed it builds up above and around the heat vents nearly identical to that picture (though not as bad)

      I never knew what it was either, and the only guess from others has been tobacco smoke. At least initially I agreed, but since it reoccurs and there are no smokers in the house I'm not so sure.

      When I first moved in, there was a huge iron furnace in the basement that I believe burned coal or wood.
      This was replaced the first year I lived here with a central air system, but only the unit in the basement was replaced not any of the duct work.

      Now I'm wondering if there is something being spread around by the duct work.

      With the fact the house is so old and that I rent instead of own, I've never really had it looked into.
      In the more lived-in rooms the light build up cleans off very easily as part of my normal cleaning routine, and even in the less used rooms a sponge and water is enough.

      Thankfully my computer is on the other side of the room by the air return vent, and I've never seen any such build up there or around the computer.

  5. Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    See comment subject.

    And yes, I clean out my computer equipment roughly every 6 months, but it will depend on your specific enviroment on how often you should clean it.

    1. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I agree that canned air is preferable; but what do you say to people that are afraid of the "frosty residue white stuff" that can get on parts if you get it too close/too long on a spot. I know it evaporates and won't do any damage (unless the part is still powered on and under load and thus warm, where the freezing *could* introduce stress and break the part), but what do I tell people that are afraid to use it, and would use a small vacuum instead and waste time?

      ((for reference, this was a manager of the IT department that issued every tech a small vacuum and didn't permit canned air to be used, even on location, EVEN at our own cost))

    2. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by ArcadeMan · · Score: 1

      Doesn't using canned air compact the dust together and make the problem even worst?

    3. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      but what do I tell people that are afraid to use it

      You would tell them you're leaving for a new job.

      Seriously, if your IT manager is that stupid then you're going to have no end of trouble and stress being there. Move to a company that knows what they're doing and is capable of hiring competent workers.

    4. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      It's not worst it's worser.

    5. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by omnichad · · Score: 1

      Hold the can perfectly upright and you don't get anything coming out of the can. Turning it at an angle, or worse upside down will coat it with those chemicals and that will evaporate. But before it does, it will also condense loads of water because it's well below zero degrees.

    6. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by omnichad · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Let me guess - you're a smoker? That's the nastiest dust I've ever cleaned out of a heatsink. There's oily crud mixed in that just won't let go.

      Normal dust comes right off, usually.

    7. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by AK+Marc · · Score: 2

      I just bought a case with filters on the air intake and a positive-pressure case, so the video card and power supply draw air from within the case and bent it out. I've not had any dust buildup other than on the filters, which clean up fine in 10 seconds in a sink. Oil with a little mineral oil for catching smaller particles - requires more frequent cleaning, and the addition of soap when cleaning..

    8. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Dog dandruff. Definitely the worst gooiest gunk I've had the displeasure of working with since 1978. Non-smokers, old XP tower that sat on the floor since new, usually four dogs in the house. It was essentially painted with the grease inside. The cat hair and nicotine boxes are impossible to complain about after that one.

    9. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Why?
      With a vacuum cleaner I don't blow the dust all over my house.
      Do you clean your room with a compressor as well?

    10. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      this was the same job that on my first day, I was asked to break an OSHA regulation (driving a forklift w/o license) and sexually harassed (nipple tweaked by female coworker). Also, they would fly me into a town at 9AM......stay overnight until 5AM next morning....plug in 2 sticks of RAM into a server....wait until 6PM for flight back. Only got paid in the car, on the plane or at the location.

      So yeah, it wasn't the best job.

    11. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      It should either have been 'worse' (less good) or 'wurst' (mmm.... wurst).

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
    12. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      I once had to clean a computer that kept shutting off due to overheating. It was used to do the administration at a cattle ranch in central Victoria (semi-desert regions) in Australia. About 2 inches of bulldust had accumulated in the case.

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
    13. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by GameboyRMH · · Score: 1

      Beaten, came here to say this. And you don't need any special case for this, just more intake airflow than exhaust and filters on all the intakes.

      --
      "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
    14. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by kermidge · · Score: 1

      Easiest thing I've found to use on tobacco smoke residue is the 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs and lint-free thin cloth over wooden coffee stirs or flat tootpicks for getting in the grooves and in PCI connectors. Probably not the best substance but it's cheap and readily gotten. For the rest? Nada, really; the machine is gonna stink like old smoke. (I should know, I smoke.)

    15. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      And you don't need any special case for this, just more intake airflow than exhaust and filters on all the intakes.

      The intake airflow will match the exhaust in all cases, what you need is more intake pressure than exhaust pressure so that you have a positive-pressure case. Though that isn't a "requirement" unless you have a clean-room requirements. The leakage of small amounts of air won't matter, so just make sure all your spacers and cover plates are in place, and you should be good. Positive pressure will help keep CD/DVD/blu-ray drives cleaner than negative pressure, but the point is to have one point of airflow in, and have a filter on it. I turned the fans on my PS to minimum, and got a fanless video card (the most powerful fanless available at the time - great on stock settings, but doesn't overclock), and so I know I have a positive pressure setup. It doesn't need a "special" case, but I got one with two intake fans in the front bottom of a tower, with variable speed, and I've seen setups that wouldn't work (a number that have the power supply fan as the only case fan, and filtered intake at the front, but the floppy drives on those old Compaqs filled with dust pretty quick). And my power supply stays at a good temperature with fans at 1/4 max, and would pickup if temperature rose past my presets.

    16. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Is there anything wrong with using a can of electrical parts cleaner and then hitting it with eg. compressed air?
      http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CRC-Lectra-Motive-electric-parts-cleaner/_/N-262e?itemIdentifier=119711_0_0_

      Hasn't been problematic for me, before. No irritating cleanup, just pour it on the ground after you spray. ;)

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    17. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      NO! Electrical parts cleaner usually contains acetone, which will dissolve plastic and strip paint. Most chips are ceramic or epoxy (very resistant), but all the connectors are plastic. Parts cleaner might strip off the conformal coating on the board, which is also bad (the exposed traces would begin corroding).

      If you remove the coin cell battery, processor and heatsinks you could flush it with alcohol. Unlike water, the alcohol evaporates quickly enough and can dissolve and rinse away most gunk without damaging sensitive parts. The risk is that some alcohol will get between the chips and the PCB, and it'll look dry but sizzle if hooked back up. I've cleaned keyboards this way, but never motherboards. I'd recommend heating the board for a couple hours at 80F before calling it dry.

    18. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A vacuum cleaner will cause electrostatic within the case (I'm the anon coward that posted this reply). When I clean out my computer (it does get pretty dusty).. I usually take it outside / in the garage and clean it out there. Here is the technical aspect of electrostatic discharges that occur when using a vacuum cleaner:

      From http://electrostaticsolutions.blogspot.com/2007/04/how-does-vacuum-cleaner-cause-static.html

      "How does using a vacuum cleaner cause static electricity?

      When dust travels in the air sucked through a vacuum cleaner it impacts on the pipe walls and other internal parts. These impacts generate static charges on the particles and on the pipe walls. If these parts are made from plastics or other insulating materials they can charge up and give static shocks. Rotating parts such as carpet beaters can also charge up through rubbing action. If the suction pipe has a metal coil and is not earthed, this can charge up and give quite an energetic spark.

      If there are flammable vapours (for example solvent fumes) present, these sparks could cause a fire or explosion risk. In larger vacuum cleaners (above about 1 m3) if the dust can give a flammable atmosphere, there may be a risk of fire or explosion in the dust collector."

    19. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by promixr · · Score: 1

      Polycyclic nicotinimides in comercially produced tobacco smoke apparently chemically react with solder- I used to repair Apple Computers for a living- I used to have a really good success rate with them, except Macs owned by smokers- the rare computer I couldn't fix was either really, really old or owned by a smoker. I used to get first and second generation CRT iMacs in all the time where it seemed like the smoker sat there for hours blowing smoke directly into the thing. The particulates from the smoke seemed to metastisize into everything... Interestingly enough I got quite a few computers from apparent pot smokers, and the resin and particulates from pot smoke, other than making a mess and coating the inside with sticky brown stuff- did not seem to affect computers in the same way as commercially produced tobacco smoke. I just cleaned them up a bit and made minor repairs and they seemed to be OK...

    20. Re:Canned Air.. not a Vacuum Cleaner by kermidge · · Score: 1

      I think you got it.

      A few years back, prompted by a remark found in a forum somewhere about manufacturers running mobos through a dishwasher at one stage, I looked into the possibility of washing a mobo at home. Seems that it can be done, if a few things are scrupulously observed. The real tricky part is ensuring that the sucker is truly dry before putting things back together and powering up.

      For testing if dry, if one could shade the mobo and a thermometer, then enclose it in, say, a plastic cover as from the dry cleaners, observe if any condensation forms when placed in direct sunlight. I'd want to look this up, but offhand I'd not let the temp get above about 120-130 degrees Fahrenheit. There is the presumption that by the time temp got that high, whatever moisture remained on the mobo would indeed vaporize. (Seems I've forgotten all my skience classes. Thanks, Kelly Bundy.)

  6. If you have moving parts YES but ... by UnknownSoldier · · Score: 1

    I have found even non-moving electronic parts collect dust such as keyboards. Once a month cleaning seems about right.

    Computers are like dust magnets. CPU fans are the worst for dust getting caked on.

    Anything that helps keep your machine from working harder then it should be, should be done.

    To use a car analogy: Would you run a car without oil and grease? Or do you want your engine and wheels (ball bearings) to keep functioning smoothly just by doing a quick maintenance?

    Seriously, do we _really_ an question/article on preventive maintenance? You brush your teeth everyday, right? Likewise electronic components should be looked after and taken care of as well. A dust cover wouldn't hurt either.

    1. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by Score+Whore · · Score: 1

      Or he could just keep the environment where his electronics are clean. Vacuum and dust frequently (the room I mean.) Keep the electronic equipment up at desk level or higher. Keep it out from under window screens.

    2. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And NO SMOKING next to your computer. This one should be obvious, but as usual, the worst perpetrators are oblivious.

    3. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My car's wheels use tapered roller bearings, not ball bearings

    4. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by gQuigs · · Score: 1

      Please elaborate about window screens. My computer is at desk level right next to a window.. What am I doing wrong and why?

      It does seem to get dusty fast...

    5. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by Pieroxy · · Score: 1

      Every time you dust an electronic component you take the risk of destroying it. This is, IMO, utterly useless most of the time. Dust presents no danger, thus, there is no need to remove it.

      Unless you have filters in front of your fans (then you should clean them or they'll clog the intake pretty quickly) there really is NO NEED to clean anything. Yes, dust will accumulate. Big deal. Dust will NOT accumulate where it matters because there's a lot of air blowing at it. It will accumulate in remote corners of your case where you could not care less if there's an inch or two of dust.

      Whenever I open my case (less than once a year) I get my vacuum cleaner and suck the big piles of dust. Then I try to clean the fans as much as I can. I have some PCs that have been running 3+ years with no cleaning at all and no issue has ever ensued.

    6. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by Score+Whore · · Score: 1

      Well, open windows would probably have been a better way to phrase it. Dust and dirt and particulates come in via open windows/window screens. They settle nearby.

    7. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by ChrisMaple · · Score: 1

      Dust accumulates on CPU heatsinks. It doesn't take long (about a year in my case) for enough accumulation that the CPU starts throttling under a modest load.

      Temperature monitor utilities are freely available. When the CPU temperature hits 65 C for no obvious reason, it's time to clean out the dust or you'll soon need a new computer.

      --
      Contribute to civilization: ari.aynrand.org/donate
    8. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by Pieroxy · · Score: 1

      I've had numerous computers and I have NEVER dusted off a heatsink. These computers have run for multiple years, in a garage, in a cupboard, under my desk, at work, at home, 24/7 for YEARS (some up to 7 years) and nope, no dust in any heatsink. Lots and lots of dust at the bottom of the case and/or behind the motherboard, but nowhere near a fan. That's excluding "slow" (aka silent) fans with grid on the site of the exhaust which seem to accumulate more dust, but still I have never had to clean anything.

      Of course YMMV and the dust condition in my house might not be yours.

    9. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by thejynxed · · Score: 1

      Because the window being there and more than likely open during warm weather, is sucking all kinds of crap in through it and straight into your computer case (including rodent and bird feces particulates). The suction is strong enough to overpower the outgoing fan flow from your case fans depending on the setup of your home and which doors are open and shut.

      --
      @Mindless Drivel: 100% of Twitter posts ever Tweeted.
    10. Re:If you have moving parts YES but ... by swalve · · Score: 1

      Sealed bearing units usually use ball bearings. Most FWD cars use those.

  7. Next Ask Slashdot Question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Next Ask Slashdot Question:

    Dear Slashdot, I heard you should regularly take breaths so you don't die. Is this true?

    1. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by ArcadeMan · · Score: 4, Funny

      I read that as "Dear Slashdot, I heard you should regularly take baths so you don't die. Is this true?"

      I was scared for a second there!

    2. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by dugjohnson · · Score: 1

      Wow, I can see how that would shake your world...it would mine. Everyone knows that it's bathing that causes death, not the other way around.

      --
      My brain is overly lubricated
    3. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by QRDeNameland · · Score: 2

      RMS, is that you?

      --
      Momentarily, the need for the construction of new light will no longer exist.
    4. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by AK+Marc · · Score: 4, Funny

      Everyone who has ever taken a bath has died within 120 years. Baths cause death!

    5. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    6. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Life, the leading cause of death.

      100% of all deaths have been confirmed to immediately follow symptoms of this disguised killer.

    7. Re:Next Ask Slashdot Question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Oh man, that's like goldy or bronzy but only it's made of iron.

  8. It can maker a big difference by person46 · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I was having problems with my system crashing under "load" (i.e. games) last year. I replaced the drivers, the video card and the power supply before I noticed that the CPU heart sink was stuffed with dust. One blast of canned air later and I haven't had a problem since. It had probably been two years since I installed that processor. So yes, there are times when it really does make a difference.

    1. Re:It can maker a big difference by X0563511 · · Score: 0, Redundant

      Excellent troubleshooting skills. ... that was sarcasm, btw.

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
    2. Re:It can maker a big difference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      He has all the qualifications for the Geek Squad.

    3. Re:It can maker a big difference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Alright you asshats. Not everyone starts out knowing everything. At least he had the ability to open the case, look inside, and figure it out instead of calling the geek squad.

    4. Re:It can maker a big difference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I think he was actually describing his typical working day at Best Buy.

    5. Re:It can maker a big difference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Excellent douchelord skills. ... that wasn't sarcasm, btw.

    6. Re:It can maker a big difference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Expensive lesson!

  9. And I? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Grammar fail in the OP. The last sentence should start with "Am I" not "And I"

    1. Re:And I? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Good catch, that is correct.

  10. wasting time? by gl4ss · · Score: 1

    yes.
    if you're cracking your monitors open to dust them then you have plenty of time. if you don't want dust then get some dust free cleanroom to keep 'em. if you're cracking monitors open on standard basis then you got some really crappy monitors or you're just gasping for straws to do.. it's more likely you'll damage them by accident when doing it than it actually helping anything.

    if you're that bored go look some teardown / repair videos on youtube. dust is not going to be the thing that kills your caps, unless it's some special iron dust or some shit like that. which in a factory it might be.

    depends on the equipment a bit of course, some cpu coolers and fan ventilated machines gather a lot of dust that makes a thermal barrier(on a part that has high heat production) and that's useful to get rid of every now and then.

    --
    world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    1. Re:wasting time? by sbryant · · Score: 2

      yes.

      No!

      Vents get blocked, causing overheating, more noise, and it ends up shortening the life of the machine.

      One colleague's laptop was getting slow and was quite loud. All the dust stopped it cooling properly, so the CPU kept getting switched to a low speed and the fan still couldn't pump enough air through. After hoovering out, it was quiet and quick!

      If you don't keep your machines clean, this happens:

      - Dirty, dirty PCs: The X-rated picture guide

      - Dirty PCs: How much filth can you take?

      - Filthy PCs: The X-rated circus of horrors

      - Unfeasibly vast amphibian found croaked on video card

      - Bring out your dead

      -- Steve

    2. Re:wasting time? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The comment that you replied to was talking about monitors. They do not use forced-air cooling and thus do not require similar cleaning measures as computers.

  11. Number 1 Killer by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    As a tech, I find people with clean homes generally have their devices last longer, and those with filthy homes often have premature device failures.

    1. Re:Number 1 Killer by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How about those who have clean homes (with some buffers) but don't take any extra care of their devices? My devices last very long even that way. Perhaps the ones with filthy homes mishandle their devices?

      Dust doesn't seem to have had much effect on my devices. When replacing my old computer (bought when 8800 GTS was new) for a newer one, I was quite surprised to see that the GPU was brightly colored, not grey like I remembered. It required quite a lot of dusting with compressed air. I had not had any problems with it, and it was still functional, just getting old.

  12. NOT a waste of time by airishtiger · · Score: 2

    Short and Sweet: YES, do take the time to clean your electronics. Below is my own subjective experience. YMMV

    When I was 17 I owned what was arguably the best laptop available to consumers in the whole world. It had the first edition of Pentium 4 mobile processors, a dvd burner and a 32 MEG (!) GeForce 4 mobile video card. I was the envy of all my friends. (I got it from the make a wish foundation after having cancer, they envied the laptop, not the cancer)

    A year later the CD drive seemed to stop reading any media that I put in. It was intermittent for a long time but eventually it wasn't able to read anything. This made was a pain because bios' back then didn't support booting from USB and when I wanted to re ghost the thing the CD's were useless. I tried booting it over the network but that was a huge pain in the ass and didn't go well. I continued to use the laptop for another year or two.

    I got a new desktop computer and the laptop went to collect dust in my desk drawer. A few years later I was cleaning out my desk and brought out the old laptop, wondering if I could get the OS reinstalled somehow. CD ROM drive still didn't work. I took a Q-tip and swabbed the little laser lens thingymabob just for shits (it didn't look dusty or dirty) Magically, Every CD I put in suddenly worked. The lens was just a little smudged I guess. I didn't use a perfectly good computer for years because of some stupid dust. (I forgot to mention, the computer was at a point where I reformatted but hadn't put any os on it so it was useless even for simple tasks)

    I also had a desktop computer that use to freeze occasionally during times of intense rendering / cpu usage. It was pretty old and when I opened the case there was a lot of dust collected in the proc's cooling fan. I just blew on it (no canned air) and got most of the dust out. No more over heating problems.

    1. Re:NOT a waste of time by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      It might not even have been dust. A small amount of oil from accidentally brushing a fingertip across the lens would be enough.

      I'm constantly amazed that phone cameras don't suffer more than they do from a degraded image capture due to fingerprints.

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
  13. Really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Yes, you should clean it. Personally, I would just submerge it in mineral oil and never vacuum again

    Ask Slashdot used to be so much more technical...this is getting ridiculous.

  14. Do you want maintainability, or convenience? by Animats · · Score: 5, Informative

    There's a tradeoff between lifespan and maintenance requirements. For fun, I restore old Teletype machines from the 1920s and 1930s. I have four of them running.

    A normal maintenance operation on early Teletypes is to remove the two electrical parts (the motor and the selector magnet) and soak the entire machine in cleaning solution to get rid of dust and dead oil. For machines in heavy use, Western Union did that annually. Then they had to be oiled again (there are several hundred oiling points and six pages of lubrication instructions), gears and sliding joints greased, the electrical parts re-installed, adjustment procedures performed, and the machines re-tested.

    Because of this design for maintainability, I've been able to take 80 year old machines that were covered with rust and dirt, and restore them to full operation. But who would put up with something today which required that kind of maintenance? Getting people to clean or change the filters on their desktop computers is difficult.

    1. Re:Do you want maintainability, or convenience? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      desktop computers have filters?

    2. Re:Do you want maintainability, or convenience? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Some do, yes... but probably not yours.

    3. Re:Do you want maintainability, or convenience? by mcelrath · · Score: 1

      desktop computers have filters?

      Yes, if you buy a good case. I have an Antec 1200 which has four removable, washable filters. I wish I had the patience to clean them once a month, because they get dirty very quickly. This design isn't the best, it still requires quite a bit of disassembly to get at the filters (which is why I don't clean them more often).

      I highly recommend everyone buy a case with filters. I bet poor cooling from dust is the #1 cause of hardware failures. Don't forget to clean your laptops too.

      --
      1^2=1; (-1)^2=1; 1^2=(-1)^2; 1=-1; 1=0.
  15. I dust my computer while it's running... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ...and I've never had any problems. There's nothing wrong with just removing the case, pushing a few peripherals away from the hard to reach spots and th

  16. Yes, clean them - if you know what you're doing by scotts13 · · Score: 1

    I manage a computer service department. We get a few computers every month suffering from nothing more than the thermal effects of dust build-up inside. Almost all of them come back fine after cleaning. However, we get a greater number of computers damaged by inept cleaning (though most of that is liquid damage). I personally have several pet parrots, and the dander spreads enough that I clean out my computers every six months.

    Take them apart, clean them, but ONLY if you are sure you can safely do so.

  17. If it's not broken, don't fix it. by Ivan+Stepaniuk · · Score: 4, Informative

    That's a golden rule.

    Most consumer equipment does not need or tolerate frequent maintenance. Cracking open an LCD monitor is not going to make it last longer, on the contrary, you are putting stress on plastic tabs (specially if it doesn't have screws), and on marginal quality harnesses and connectors that are meant to be assembled once.

    --
    My other signature is a car
  18. Clean them or you can get problems! by cyberzephyr · · Score: 1

    I use desktop a lot and i feel you have to blow them out (canned air) and check on them when you hear the fan whine a certain way. My machine runs quiet and it should but if you don't hear anything and you get a Blue/black screen then the fan is dead.

    --
    I'm here for the experience, not the Hyperbole.
  19. Gaming Laptops by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Had a dell XPS and after 6months load of trouble due to overheating....new M/B video cards at much cost to Dell :)

    Finally they relaced it with an Alienware m17x twin nvidia gtx285M after 3 month same overheating - dell guy came out replaced video cards and say I should clean out the dust regular so I now do a dismantle and clean around the video cards and cpu heat sink every couple of months....if only they made it easy to do...need to remove back keyboard etc lol

    Pitty the non techies who buy super powerful laptops only for them to slowly melt :)

  20. Two thoughs. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Firstly, the capacitive, inductive and thermal blanket effect of the dust can become part of the overall workings of the dusty component. And therefore cleaning it off disrupts this and may cause the device to fail sooner.

    On the other hand, dust can contain small conductive particle and the build up of these particle to cause premature failure of the device.

    Not much help other than, if your going to clean, always clean, if your not going to clean, then don't.

    1. Re:Two thoughs. by plover · · Score: 1

      Your first point is completely invalid when referring to a computer. The effects of a dust-induced thermal blanket are never beneficial. It's not an organism that is capable of adapting to its environment. If a thermal blanket were actually needed, the engineer would deliberately add an insulating layer.

      The most thought an engineer gives to dust is to either prevent it through seals and filters, remove it, or to minimize its impact. It is never to depend upon it, with the sole exception of the activity of deliberately designing a dust collector.

      --
      John
  21. Filthy People Don't Care by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Perhaps the ones with filthy homes mishandle their devices?

    This has been my observation. People willing to live in filth don't care about themselves. If they don't care about themselves, why would they care about consumer electronics.

    Filthy hardware.
    Massive dust build up inside their fan aspirated devices.
    Tattered cables.
    Cracked LCD screens...

    Some people are just pigs.

  22. Depends. by plover · · Score: 4, Informative

    If you're cleaning them correctly and carefully, you'll extend their lives. Dust buildup is a leading cause of overheating in PCs, and heat is a real problem.

    But if you're cleaning them incorrectly, you'll shorten their lives. Any time you open the case, you're exposing sensitive components to risk, especially static damage. Not grounding yourself to the case when you're touching internal components will allow any static buildup on your body to discharge through a component. Vacuum cleaners draw so much air through them that they generate static electricity, particularly on the tip of a plastic nozzle. Static discharges at lower voltages are invisible and can cause latent damage that you may not immediately discover, but those weaknesses enable other normal stresses to destroy the chip.

    When you take it apart to clean it, you're exposing it to non-zero risk. You might make a mechanical mistake in assembly that impacts proper cooling. You might put the CPU heatsink on cockeyed, fail to equally tension all the heat sink mounting screws, or drape a stray cable across a fan and prevent it from turning. Failing to put airflow devices back in their correct place, or failing to reconnect the fans to the power cables, could reduce needed airflow. When you carry it to the workbench, you risk dropping it. I've seen people reuse old thermal paste or glob on a thick layer of new paste when replacing the CPU fan (the fan maker's pre-paste is usually horribly thick.) A bad thermal paste layer will insulate the CPU from the heat sink and cause overheating. Lots of the aftermarket CPU fans have really weird mounting hardware, and you need to be sure they're correctly mounted so they effectively transfer the heat. All these risks can be reduced by learning how to do it right, reading the directions, and taking appropriate precautions.

    One way to greatly reduce the risk of damage due to improper handling is to clean the machines only as often as necessary. Dust buildup is dependent on your particular environment. Fabrics, pets, dirt, open windows, flowering plants, carpeting, low humidity, high humidity, smoke, grease, cooking oils, hair sprays, colognes, all are factors that contribute to the build up of dust. So clean it after a year, and figure out what the cleaning schedule should be based on what you discover. It might be that annual cleanings are appropriate, or maybe you can wait two or three years.

    All heat is a problem. Direct thermal damage from too much heat is possible, of course, but temperature changes can cause problems too. Thermal expansion causes the mechanical motion of parts. Every material has a different coefficient of expansion, (e.g. aluminum expands more per degree than steel, plastic expands more than aluminum,) so as parts heat and cool, they tug at solder connections, screw mountings, and other interface points inside the case. Repeated heating and cooling cycles increase the possibility of damage. Keeping it clean will keep it cooler, reducing the amount of expansion and motion, and extending the life.

    Note that I'm not saying you'll ever drop your computer or ever reassemble it incorrectly, I'm pointing out that the act of cleaning it creates a risk greater than zero, and that the risk is zero when you are not cleaning it. And bigger risks lead to shorter lifespans.

    --
    John
    1. Re:Depends. by thejynxed · · Score: 1

      Speaking of those aftermarket cooling units:

      1) They do this mainly so they can lock certain models into only working with certain GPU or motherboard socket types.

      2) Most of this can usually be worked around with a bit of creativity, such as zip ties, rotary tools, and fashioning your own extensions for mounting brackets out of spare Bic pens, etc.

      3) Always remove thermal tape/paste pre-applied by the manufacturer and clean with 97%+ rubbing alcohol before applying a proper layer of something like Arctic Silver. Not only do manufacturers normally use too much, they also tend to use some generic crap that won't do squat anyhow.

      --
      @Mindless Drivel: 100% of Twitter posts ever Tweeted.
  23. Vacuum Cleaner by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    of course. What else?

  24. What a weird story by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    I'm completely torn by what this guy is saying.

    I clean out my equipment monthly, but only the equipment that I can easily open. Screws and threaded posts are so cheap and fragile these days a lot of equipment won't survive being opened and closed many times. Most consumer grade equipment just uses self-tapping screws that go straight into the plastic. This kind of equipment almost never appreciates being opened and closed, the screws become loose and every time you undo them you have to tighten them up just a little bit more then before to get them tight, right up to the point the threads totally strip out.

    My monitor doesn't get dusty at all. After five years of use, the inside is basically dust free. Sure, I dust it off weekly with a swiffer but that's about it. I never blast it with compressed air because this can push hairs and dust into the LCD diffuser assembly (which will then appear as a "spec" inside the screen where you can't get it). I've never even remotely considered dismantling my monitor since there are a lot of stupidly ESD-sensitive components in there where just touching the wrong part (even if you think you're not electrically charged) will fry entire regions of pixels (these parts are usually marked with big bold "DO NOT TOUCH" markings- and they really mean it).

    So I'm not sure what to say.

    I guess the moral of my situation is that if you dust often, you don't need to dust as deep. If you have to take out more then four screws to get it open, then you're totally doing it wrong. Stop being so lazy and actually bother to clean stuff on a reasonable schedule and you won't have to resort to that kind of insanity.

  25. Re:Ooo! A Dear Slashdot column! by tbird81 · · Score: 4, Funny

    If you can't get those, might I suggest aiming in another direction.

    So, to quote Steve Jobs, "You're holding it wrong."

  26. liquid fabric softener by mrflash818 · · Score: 1

    Mix 1/4 liquid fabric softener (unscented if you do not want all your stuff to smell like laundry) to 3/4 water in a spray bottle.

    Lightly spray surfaces and wipe dry with a clean rag. The fabric softener conducts enough that it prevents static build up. (Proof by experiment: try on TV screen/enclosure of old tube TV, or spray floor where you used to get a shock to touch a door knob, or the seats of your car.)

    I've used this technique for my house's carpets (have to re-apply after each time we got the carpets shampoo'd), car seats and car carpets, TV, PC monitor(s), and PC enclosures.

    --
    Uh, Linux geek since 1999.
  27. More harm than good probably by The_Revelation · · Score: 1

    If there is nothing mechanical going on in the device, you are probably causing more harm than anything. I've electrostatically killed functional (well... kinda) computers blasting them out with air. Doesn't always happen, and those computers were caked with welding soot so the periodic blasting was the only thing keeping the parts turning. Normally in an office or home environment I wouldn't bother, since sealed devices without fans tend not to accumulate anything significant. For example, I wouldn't bother opening a monitor from that same manufacturing environment, I'd just clean the casing as you would find they typically break from a fist-through-the-screen rather than old-age.

    .... all the internals of your printers, on the other hand, do require constant cleaning and care to avoid damaging any of their multiple friggin sensor points. Also, iPhones and mechanical buttons there-in don't mind a spirit clean.

  28. Preventive Measures of Dust Buildup by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    AKA: Fan Filters

    They cost you about $5 each for good ones. mount them on the intake part of your fans, or the exhaust portion if the fan is tricky to get out without tearing the case apart. I run 2 fan filters on my PC for the intakes, and my case has a built in filter on the front for its two in take fans (so its a total of "3" in my case). The blades on my GPU fans are slightly dusty and my PC usually runs 6 hours a day 7 days a week and the GPU was purchased in October. /end testimonial

    I use the Silverstone "hex" pattern filters (I don't know a specific name). They have a fine mesh (I don't like foam, too many reports and studies show they reduce airflow).

    PS: Fan Filters are a great way to reduce noise from a fan too!

    1. Re:Preventive Measures of Dust Buildup by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I use the Silverstone "hex" pattern filters (I don't know a specific name).

      Silverstone FF121.

  29. Needs improvement by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    First of all, I do not understand how static build-up and clogged dust are immediately related to each other. Whatever...

    Anyway, dust cleaning is something that is surprisingly still not well handled in computers! Surely some desktops have dust filters, and that's good, but the problem is not dealt in most laptops in a proper way.

  30. Best way is to stop the dust in the 1st place. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Best way is to stop the dust in the 1st place.

    Be sure to set up all your computer gear inside plastic sealable bags & just have to cords coming out.
    You might find clear plastic works a little better than opaque.

  31. Dealing With Electrostatic Contamination? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Dear Slashdot,
    Whenever I take my clothes out of the dryer they are static-y and cling to each other.
    I cleaned out the lint from the filter, but I didn't notice any difference.
    How do you deal with this problem, or am I wasting my time?

  32. I work in a cleanroom by BetterSense · · Score: 2

    I work in a semiconductor clean-room. There are modern desktop systems, old 486 systems, and lots of industrial logic boards, cabinets chock full of arrays of huge computer fans...some of this stuff has been going since the early '90s and there isn't a spec of dust on them. It's pretty weird to see old computer equipment, including fans, that DOESN'T have even a trace of dust on it. Very strange.

  33. Your suspicion is right... by Sir+Holo · · Score: 1

    You are wasting your time.

    Same could be said for those who defrag their hard drives weekly, etc.

  34. Dishwasher used for cleaning old PDP-11 cards by Traf-O-Data-Hater · · Score: 3, Informative

    Over on the Vintage Computer forum, people do in fact run old circuit boards such as PDP-11 modules through the dishwasher, and clean contacts with fine abrasive. Blasting core memory stacks with compressed air however is a definate no-no as this destroys the fine wiring.

    1. Re:Dishwasher used for cleaning old PDP-11 cards by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      If your going to clean contacts, use a pencil eraser.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
  35. Re:Ooo! A Dear Slashdot column! by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

    I believe that you sir have won teh interwebs.

    --
    Sara
    Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
  36. Air quality by denbesten · · Score: 3, Insightful

    If you are having problems with fanless devices getting too dirty inside, you might want to think about improving your indoor air quality, if for no better reason, your own health.

    Cpus and other devices with fans stay much cleaner inside if they are not placed on the floor.

  37. Reversed fan and external filter: results by advid.net · · Score: 2

    Here is what I have done with excellent results:

    My NAS had a small fan, blowing warm air outside it. I remount the fan so that it blows fresh air inside the NAS and I added a custom external filter on the intake. The filter doesn't limit the flow (big accordion shape and stockings-like fabric). I plugged some holes to optimize the flow.

    The NAS is sitting on the floor under the stairs, a rather dusty environnement...

    After two years I inspected the NAS, here are the results:

    - No dust soots the NAS, on some parts there is only a very thin grey layer of the finest particles that goes through the filter. It is much thinner than a coat of paint, nothing to worry about for the years to come.
    - Filter is easy to clean, no need to open anything.

    Also the NAS is actualy cooler, the hard drives report 35C instead of 37C, this is a side effect of the reverse flow which is more turbulent and effective for going everywhere to cool the parts.

  38. MyCleanPC? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I've heard you can get all the dust out safely with MyCleanPC.

  39. Troll or Art? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I can't distinguish. Reminds me of the labels on Dr. Bronner's soap...

  40. Phone cameras are already that bad by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Phone cameras are so shiity that you can't tell. They're so bad that instagram makes their photos better.

  41. subject by Legion303 · · Score: 1

    Anecdotal: my hardware firewall (old Pentium II desktop) is on top of a box in the basement a few feet from the furnace. Last time I was in there checking a cable, I noticed maybe 1/16" worth of dust all over it. I haven't had it open since I built it.

    Electrostatic contamination probably shouldn't concern you.

  42. Really, cleaning the inside of your monitor? by Control-Z · · Score: 1

    I'm all for vacuuming out the computer case once in a while, but that's about it. Electronics have a good lifespan (5+ years) and even for thrifty me by the time they wear out I'm ready for something cheaper and better.

  43. 3 Recommendations that will spare you... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    1.) Keep your computer at least 1-inch up off the floor. There are a number of computer stands that can do this, or you could just put the computer on a piece of wood.

    2.) Buy a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) and connect your computer to that so you have less to worry about with power fluctuations.

    3.) Upgrade your computer every 3-5 years depending on your computing power needs, utilize this opportunity to clear dust off of re-used components.

    There is no need to clean out the inside of your computer multiple times a year, or annually for that matter. The only exception would be if the computer is in a bad environment where dust accumulation will be greater (living near a highway, computer located in or near a wood/metal workshop, cats, etc...).

  44. Thermal, not electrostatic by InvisiBill · · Score: 1

    A number of comments here have mentioned it, but nobody has flat out said it. The big problem from dust is that it acts as an insulator, trapping heat in the components. It also inhibits airflow, which makes the insulation that much worse. I've not heard of any dusty PC components suffering from electrostatic problems, but there are tons of PCs and components that run hotter than they need to due to tons of dust clogging up fans and heatsink fins.

  45. Positive pressure vs. negative pressure by InvisiBill · · Score: 1

    This is what enthusiasts refer to as using positive pressure. Fans force air into the case, creating slightly higher than atmospheric pressure inside. The excess air then escapes out whatever holes and cracks it can find in the case. With negative pressure, the fan sucks warm air out of the case and creates lower pressure inside. Air comes in through the tiny holes and cracks in the case.

    There's not a whole lot of performance difference between the two overall, but with positive pressure you have a small number of obvious entry points for air, which are easy to filter. With negative pressure, the air enters from a bunch of random spots that are nearly impossible to filter. While there's not much performance difference, one way makes it a whole lot easier to keep dust out of your system.