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Ask Slashdot: Surge Protection For International Travel?

New submitter gaiageek writes: As someone who has lost a laptop power supply (and thus use of the laptop) due to a late-night power surge while traveling in a developing country, I'm acutely aware of the need for surge protection when traveling abroad. While practically all laptop and phone power adapters these days are voltage auto-sensing 100V-240V compatible, most so-called "travel" surge protectors are restricted to either 110V or 220V. Given the space and weight constraints of carry-on only travel, I'd like to avoid having to carry two separate surge protectors knowing I may go from Central America (110V) to Southeast Asia (220V). Strangely, laptop specific surge protectors typically are 100V-240V compatible, but this doesn't provide protection for a phone or tablet that requires the original power supply (can't be charged from a notebook USB port).

Is there really no solution out there short using a 110V-240V notebook surge protector with an adapter to go from a "cloverleaf" notebook plug to a 5-15R (standard US) plug receptacle?

19 of 138 comments (clear)

  1. Surge protectors *must* be voltage specific by markus_baertschi · · Score: 4, Informative

    The problem is, 200 Volts on a 110V circuit is a surge and will fry a 110V power supply. So surge protectors need to be voltage specific or they become ineffective at lower voltages.

    I would go another route: Make sure that your have spare/alternative ways to power or charge your equipment. For example carry a 12V charger for your laptop (also works on some airplanes). Only buy equipment (phones/tablets) you can charge from an USB outlet. Carry a spare USB charger.

    This will get easier over time with the USB type C connector and USB power delivery, as modern devices get equipped with it.

    1. Re:Surge protectors *must* be voltage specific by BenFranske · · Score: 2

      Yes, it's true that 200 volts on a 110/120v circuit might damage a 110/120v power supply. However, the OP mentions that their power supplies are universal 110~240v. That means the supplies can actually handle up to 240v so they only need surge protection above 240v regardless.

    2. Re:Surge protectors *must* be voltage specific by gaiageek · · Score: 2

      OP here. If surge protectors must be voltage specific, that doesn't explain how the laptop-specific surge protectors can be 100V-240V compatible.

      As for carrying a spare laptop power supply, that would be just as much weight/bulk as a 2nd surge protector, so kind of defeats the point.

    3. Re:Surge protectors *must* be voltage specific by Z00L00K · · Score: 4, Interesting

      A surge protector for 230-240 volts is what's needed.

      So get a power strip with surge protection for Schuko (Common style in most of Europe) connectors, replace the plug with a male connector same as power supplies as stationary computers have and then get a country specific power cable in the country visited.

      The reason to use the Shuko connector is that most devices are available in European format alternative, fewer in the UK format and the Schuko plug is smaller than the UK plugs as well. Any talk about need to identify live and neutral is just bollocks on anything manufactured after 1980.

      If all the power supplies connected are auto-ranging up to 240 volts there's no need to have a voltage specific surge protector, the power supplies can cope with it.

      --
      If builders built buildings the way programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker would destroy civilization.
    4. Re:Surge protectors *must* be voltage specific by gweihir · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Indeed. Even when you have a 100-240V device connected to 110V, you must use an 110V surge protector. The problem is that while a 220V surge protector would clamp at a voltage the device can survive, it can only survive reliably if it has been running at 220V because of the way these devices are designed. They have a rectifier and filter capacitor. If the filter capacitor gets charged up from 110V by a surge clamped for 220V (which clamps at around 400...500V), the inrush-current will likely blow the last-ditch fuse in the device and may well damage other components.

      So, sorry, what you want is not possible. You must get both.

      --
      Most ACs are not even worth the keystrokes to insult them. Be generically insulted by this and ignored otherwise.
    5. Re:Surge protectors *must* be voltage specific by gweihir · · Score: 2

      If you have a 100-240V "compatible" surge protector, then you have been cheated, as that is not possible to do reliably without significantly more effort than goes into these devices. These will always only offer limited protection at 110V.

      --
      Most ACs are not even worth the keystrokes to insult them. Be generically insulted by this and ignored otherwise.
  2. Lindy surge protector with usb by mriya3 · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I have a Lindy Surge Protector (model number 73311) which has a cloverleaf input, a cloverleaf output, a "universal" (Multi region power socket) output plug, and 2 usb outputs (1A maximum). It's rated for 660W max at 110V and 1380W Max at 230V.

  3. 220V should be sufficient by bosef1 · · Score: 3, Insightful

    So I'm clear: you have a collection of devices with switch-mode power supplies that can handle the global 100-240V power, and you want a surge suppressor that will protect you on any voltage.

    Since your power supplies can handle up to 240V, you just need a surge suppressor that handles spikes above 240V. So buy a 240V-rated surge suppressor, and use a 120V plug adapter for countries with lower voltage. Since your devices already handle up to 240V, then they can handle minor over-voltages on 120V systems just fine. Bigger spikes, like lightning, are going to be high over-voltages regardless of the base voltage.

    I'm not sure of your solution if you have devices that have only-120V or only-240V power supplies, and you need a surge suppressor that can protect both. Buy new wide-band power supplies or build your own (it's not that hard).

    1. Re:220V should be sufficient by gaiageek · · Score: 2

      OP here. I appreciate your theory, but sorry, this isn't an advertisement in disguise - and if you believe one can arrive in a developing country and just buy a surge protector within the hour, I would guess you haven't been to the kind of countries I'm talking about (or arrived at 3am when local shops are all closed). When my Thinkpad power supply got fried in India (as mentioned in the OP) I literally spent weeks trying to find a replacement: I'd call a local shop, they'd say they ordered it and it would arrive in 2 days and they'd call me. 4 days later I'd call and they'd say it would be there in 2 days and they'd call me. (They never called). I'd change towns and go through a repeat of the same situation. I finally gave up trying.

      Keep in mind as well: not wanting to waste time searching for a new surge protector every time I switch to a different region; wanting to use a quality surge protector from a brand I know is reliable, and not a cheap one as you suggest.

    2. Re:220V should be sufficient by jandjmh · · Score: 3, Informative

      If I had mod points I would mod this up - most sensible post in this thread so far. So called surge suppressors are only useful to minimize the amplitude of very short, very high voltage but low total energy transients of the kind created by lightning (nearby, not a direct his) and other arc like events, such as sparks created by connecting and disconnecting loads.

      If you are somewhere third world, and the nominal 220V line goes to 260V and stays there for a while (fractions of a second to many seconds) the kind of surge suppressor found in power strips is useless. Your adapter will probably fry - and with luck fail in a way that blows a fuse inside without sending any damaging over voltage to the device it is powering. Better quality power adapters have added parts on the output that clamp the DC to safe limits even if the upstream parts in the adapter are being overvoltaged to failure.

      So use good quality (expensive brand name) adapters and take extras. They may die, but should sacrifice themselves to save the attached gear.

      PS - I spent years in industry designing power distribution, regulation and filtering gear for pro audio - including equipment designed for touring sound that had to run from generators that would sometimes put out excess voltage for a relatively long time if too much load was shed suddenly.

  4. Buy on site by Crowd+Computing · · Score: 2

    Rather than carry why not buy on the spot in the country you're travelling to? Every airport should have a duty-free shop of some sort. What you'll probably find are power strips with surge protection rather than something specifically marketed as a surge protector. Look for one with a fuse or a mini circuit breaker. If you're worried about the quality, then you can try daisy-chaining two of them.

  5. Here's what I did by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    From US, but spend 90% of my time abroad for work. I bought a US power strip w/ surge protector, for my devices to plug into, and then attach a voltage adapter to the input plug on the strip. I swap adapters depending on what country I'm in--each of which is only slightly larger than the length of the plug on the power strip, so it's not a big deal to carry a half dozen of them around in my luggage. This has served me well for about 3 years now.

    1. Re:Here's what I did by BenFranske · · Score: 2

      You shouldn't do that. The US power strip is likely only rated for 120v. If you use it with an adapter in a country with 240v service you may find that some of the clearances are not enough and you get arcing, thus a fire hazard. I've actually had this happen to me. A better, but similar solution is to get a 220/230/240v power strip with surge protector. You can even get one that will accept US style plugs if you'd like. As long as your power supplies are rated for up to 240v input you'll be protected from surges.

    2. Re:Here's what I did by burtosis · · Score: 2

      You shouldn't do that. The US power strip is likely only rated for 120v. If you use it with an adapter in a country with 240v service you may find that some of the clearances are not enough and you get arcing, thus a fire hazard. I've actually had this happen to me.

      The voltage required to start an arc is around a million volts per meter. The 110V difference requires under four thousandths of an inch additional clearance given no insulation at all. If that's the issue I'm going to argue the device was so cheaply made it was already a fire hazard.

      A more likely scenario is cheap components (like capacitors for example) and overall bad design.

  6. Re:Original power supply by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    I hope you realize that the optimal "waveform" from a USB charger is a flat line. There isn't such a thing as "waveform quality" with DC power, which is what USB uses. Ripple, maybe, from insufficient filtering, but not "waveform". That is only an issue with inverters that output AC mains voltage power.

  7. You're doing it wrong... by itsme1234 · · Score: 2

    Modern good laptop power supplies aren't that easy to kill; probably many mains appliances the locals use are more sensitive to troubles on the line (not only spike but also short drops), from fridges or air-condition units (anything that's compressor-based), washing machines, etc. Sure, PSes can die out of the blue, like mostly everything else but you might not be able to prevent this with a surge protector.

    If it is critical to have the laptop available then you need to carry (at least) two power supplies AND TWO LAPTOPS! Frankly the power supply can be replaced almost everywhere for less than the cost of 2-4 beers from minibar, is just a 12-20V DC power supply (it can be also jury-rigged from basic parts - YES I know about the laptops with data pins, etc but still a basic supply will work). In fact it is more likely the laptop will die (not only from electrical problems!).

    If you don't really need a backup laptop you can plan to use the phone for most of the communication, basic browsing, etc. You can have a memory stick with the important files, bitlocker encrypted if you want, even a fully encrypted bootable linux distribution if you so desire. Heck, you can borrow a machine if absolutely needed at Everest Base Camp, I'm sure you'll be fine anywhere else.

    And why, WHY, WHY, WHY would you have in 2016 a phone "that requires the original power supply (can't be charged from a notebook USB port)" ?!?!?!?!!??! YES, we all knows somebody who still has a Nokia from 2008 with the round connector and a battery that goes for three weeks when new and even now from Monday to Friday without any sweat. But I haven't seen anybody on an intercontinental flight with something like that for a while. Even if I do see somebody I'll just assume it is a second phone, to use with a local SIM...

    1. Re:You're doing it wrong... by gaiageek · · Score: 2

      OP here. My situation isn't critical enough to warrant carrying more than a half-pound of extra gear, which rules out an extra power supply and certainly a 2nd laptop. As you mention, I can always use my phone.

      As for a "phone that requires the original power supply" - that was misleading. All my devices (save the laptop) can be charged from from USB, but the laptop USB ports tend put out the standard 500mAh, so it can be a long time charging compared to a 1000mAh USB charger. Also, I have encountered devices (the HP Touchpad) which, if depleted to 0% battery, will not charge without the stock charger. I no longer use a Touchpad, but the experience taught me that "USB charging" isn't so universal and the stock charger may be necessary.

  8. Surges weren't my biggest problem... by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 2

    Persistent over/under voltage was always my challenge traveling. A surge protective device doesn't do anything when power is running at 300V for a few seconds. The old MOVs, without proper fusing, would always pop and start smoking, which was a sign to trip the main breaker before everything got fried.

    For truly sensitive electronics we always used commodity 12V chargers tied to a big battery bank with individual inverters for each piece of equipment. We might have had a custom filter to deal with ripple current off the chargers, too long ago to remember the details. The chargers lasted 2-3 months on average, but were easy to replace. Normal dual-conversion UPSs would barely last 3-4 months and were much harder to find and more expensive.

    For today, I would have two laptop power supplies and an extra battery, and only charge from USB. The bigger USB power supplies are pretty robust, worth carrying extras.

    1. Re:Surges weren't my biggest problem... by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 2

      Yes. In the course of a day, mains power where I used to live would range from 100V to 300V. You get the prolonged over voltages when a large load drops off, either a circuit breaker trip, or something more random. Modern voltage regulators prevent this, but legacy units will operate for a few minutes at 30-50% over voltage.

      Even with modern voltage regulators, when the load is random they are often programmed pretty loosely. 3rd world load creates 3rd world grids.