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Fast-Growth Chickens Produce New Industry Woe: 'Spaghetti Meat' (wsj.com)

An anonymous reader shares a report: Chicken companies spent decades breeding birds to grow rapidly and develop large breast muscles. Now the industry is spending hundreds of millions of dollars to deal with the consequences ranging from squishy fillets known as "spaghetti meat," because they pull apart easily, to leathery ones known as "woody breast." [Editor's note: the link may be paywalled; alternative source.] The abnormalities pose no food safety risk, researchers and industry officials say. They are suspected side effects of genetic selection that now allows meat companies to raise a 6.3-pound bird in 47 days, roughly twice as fast as 50 years ago, according to the National Chicken Council.

That efficiency drive has helped U.S. meat giants such as Tyson Foods, Pilgrim's Pride, Perdue Farms and Sanderson Farms produce a record 42 billion pounds of chicken nuggets, tenders and other products in 2018. Now, it's adding an estimated $200 million or more in annual industry expenses to identify and divert breast fillets that are too tough, too squishy or too striped with bands of white tissue to sell in restaurants or grocery stores, according to researchers at the University of Arkansas.

29 of 175 comments (clear)

  1. Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by SuperKendall · · Score: 2

    It's funny, I'm not keen on lab grown beef, but I'd probably go for lab grown chicken... maybe it's because it would be essentially what we have now, without the suffering of millions of chickens raised in really poor conditions.

    Also because it appears lab grown chicken has a much lower bar to meet commercial chicken quality as the summary illuminates.

    --
    "There is more worth loving than we have strength to love." - Brian Jay Stanley
    1. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by HornWumpus · · Score: 3

      How do you cook a vegetarian douchebag?

      Sounds tough and stringy.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    2. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by PPH · · Score: 3, Funny

      This.

      Vegetarians pretty much taste like chicken anyway.

      --
      Have gnu, will travel.
    3. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by cayenne8 · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Vegetarians pretty much taste like chicken anyway.

      That's not saying much...

      Today's chicken, like most other industrially raised foods has LOST pretty much all flavor.

      Hell, I don't even buy tomatoes fresh in the grocery store anymore, they're just flavorless, and often horrible texture.

      I long for my summer gardens for real tomatoes...especially more heirloom 'ugly' ones that you can just sit and eat like an apple.

      I've been experimenting with hydroponic growing indoors for the off season grows...good results there too.

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    4. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

      Perhaps, but they're really easy to find growing free range. Plus, you could always get rent money from Starbucks to open a non-profit reserve for them to spawn upon.

    5. Re:Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by PolygamousRanchKid+ · · Score: 3, Funny

      without the suffering of millions of chickens raised in really poor conditions.

      Yes! Forget about "Think of the Children!" . . . "Think of the Chickens!"

      I think all IT folks should rally around the cause:

      Spaghetti Code! Not Chicken!"

      --
      Schroedinger's Brexit: The UK is both in and out of the EU at the same time!
    6. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by ShanghaiBill · · Score: 3, Informative

      Today's chicken, like most other industrially raised foods has LOST pretty much all flavor.

      Much of that is due to their diet of nothing but corn and soybean meal.

      Try raising a flock in your backyard, where they can scrounge for insects and worms, and you will get much more flavor. The egg yolks are a deep orange color instead of the pale yellow yolks from battery cage chickens.

      Many cities and towns permit small flocks. My hometown (San Jose) allows up to six hens, which is plenty for my family.

    7. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by PopeRatzo · · Score: 3, Funny

      How do you cook a vegetarian douchebag?

      Sounds tough and stringy.

      You have to cook them sous-vide. They come out nice and tender, plus you get the added benefit of listening to them scream.

      --
      You are welcome on my lawn.
    8. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by Impy+the+Impiuos+Imp · · Score: 3, Informative

      Sucks your Yoda lingo does.

      --
      (-1: Post disagrees with my already-settled worldview) is not a valid mod option.
    9. Re:Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by apoc.famine · · Score: 2

      Best part of any visit home is rolling out of bed late, wandering down for a cup of extra-strong coffee, and mom making me a couple of runny eggs and some buttery wheat toast to dunk in them. Those amazing nearly orange yolks are just so good.

      I try not to think about the fucking dinosaurs who made them, however. One running around with a live mouse in its beak, with the rest of the flock chasing after it trying to get a piece as well. The flock going crazy over a snake and pecking and kicking it to death, then eating it. Free-range chickens are no joke. They will eat just about anything. If they were bigger, like back in the old days, humans would definitely be on the menu rather than the other way around.

      --
      Velociraptor = Distiraptor / Timeraptor
    10. Re: Maybe lab grown chicken is best... by cayenne8 · · Score: 3, Informative

      Try raising a flock in your backyard, where they can scrounge for insects and worms, and you will get much more flavor. The egg yolks are a deep orange color instead of the pale yellow yolks from battery cage chickens.

      I don't really have the room, my backyard is pretty small, but I do have friends that raise chickens and when they have extra eggs, I buy them and you are right, the difference in the eggs is like night and day.

      They BEST deviled eggs I've ever made are with the naturally raised ones.

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
  2. editors lol by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    your alternative source is literally just an article about spaghetti, you dinks.

    1. Re:editors lol by 93+Escort+Wagon · · Score: 4, Funny
      --
      #DeleteChrome
    2. Re:editors lol by Ichijo · · Score: 2

      "Just" an article about spaghetti? Are you antipasto or something?

      --
      Any sufficiently unpopular but cohesive argument is indistinguishable from trolling.
  3. REAL Alternative Source by Blue+Stone · · Score: 5, Informative

    Because the Slashdot editors are such stellar professionals and the "alternative source" to the paywalled site goes to an article on actual fucking spaghetti (with no connection to the main story at all) (ffs), here's the main article's text:

    Fast-Growth Chickens Produce New Industry Woe: ‘Spaghetti Meat’
    Jacob Bunge March 10, 2019

    Chicken companies spent decades breeding birds to grow rapidly and develop large breast muscles. Now the industry is spending hundreds of millions of dollars to deal with the consequences ranging from squishy fillets known as “spaghetti meat,” because they pull apart easily, to leathery ones known as “woody breast.”

    The abnormalities pose no food safety risk, researchers and industry officials say. They are suspected side effects of genetic selection that now allows meat companies to raise a 6.3-pound bird in 47 days, roughly twice as fast as 50 years ago, according to the National Chicken Council.

    That efficiency drive has helped U.S. meat giants such as Tyson Foods Inc., Pilgrim’s Pride Corp. , Perdue Farms Inc. and Sanderson Farms Inc. produce a record 42 billion pounds of chicken nuggets, tenders and other products in 2018. Now, it’s adding an estimated $200 million or more in annual industry expenses to identify and divert breast fillets that are too tough, too squishy or too striped with bands of white tissue to sell in restaurants or grocery stores, according to researchers at the University of Arkansas.

    “There is proof that these abnormalities are associated with fast-growing birds,” said Dr. Massimiliano Petracci, a professor at the University of Bologna in Italy, who leads a team of researchers investigating the chicken breast problems in breeds used in commercial farms.

    Two poultry-breeding firms—Cobb-Vantress, owned by Tyson, and Aviagen Inc.—supply the bulk of breeding stock for the world’s chicken companies, industry officials said. Years of matching up genetic lines has boosted each bird’s yield of breast muscle, the white meat that sells for a roughly 13% premium to overall wholesale chicken meat prices, according to U.S. Agriculture Department data.

    Researchers and breeders are still trying to pin down the exact cause of problems, a Tyson spokesman said. “While there are some factors linked to the occurrence—including bird weight, feed ingredients and the time of year the bird is grown—even a combination of these factors will not necessarily produce the same issues consistently,” he said.

    An Aviagen spokeswoman had no comment.

    Spaghetti meat—a name researchers have given chicken breast fillets that can be picked up and pulled apart by hand, or punctured easily with a fingertip—began appearing in 2015 and now can be detected in around 4% to 5% of breast meat samples, researchers said.

    “It looks like spaghetti noodles,” said Dr. Casey Owens, a University of Arkansas professor, adding that the affected muscle fibers have a stringy texture.

    Researchers also began observing white striping in commercially raised chickens around 2010, with woody breast appearing on the scene around 2013, Dr. Petracci said. Woody breast has been found in around 10% of samples, while white striping occurs in around 30% of chicken breasts sampled, he said. The severity of the problems can vary widely and often doesn’t affect the entire breast, researchers said.

    Meat scientists said they suspect the rapid growth rate of commercially raised chickens may lead breast muscle tissue to outgrow the oxygen supply provided by chickens’ developing circulatory systems, at which point muscle fibers can degrade. That can alter the density and texture of the meat, they said.

    Some restaurant and grocery companies aren’t waiting for chicken companies to solve the problems. Burger chain Wendy’s Co. in 2016 noticed toughness in some of its grilled chicken sandwiches. The chain in 2017

    --
    Corporation, n. An ingenious device for obtaining individual profit without individual responsibility. - Ambrose Bierce
    1. Re: REAL Alternative Source by edris90 · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Instead of saying too long to read, how to keep the context honest and say you lack the necessary attention span to read it. Own your limitations . don't blame others, for your own deficiencies

  4. Re:Had some chicken in mexico. by HornWumpus · · Score: 2

    'Special chicken' (meow).

    --
    John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
  5. Not exactly by SuperKendall · · Score: 2

    Their customers will eat anything.

    Close, but the truth is Arby's customers will eat anything that has Arby's cheese sauce on it.

    Even though it makes me feel slightly odd, who can resist its moist pleasures?

    --
    "There is more worth loving than we have strength to love." - Brian Jay Stanley
  6. so they have been slacking on pruning by edris90 · · Score: 4, Informative

    Like any process of selective breeding you have to go through each batch, and identify and selectively remove the ones that have genetic traits that are undesirable. Donald should read chicken industry has slacked off on their selective breeding quality control and it has resulted in undesired mutations. Always grow more than what you need because an uncertain number is going to be defective. And every so often you have to go back to going through the stock with a fine-tooth comb in order to filter out bad genetics

  7. Woody breast by brianerst · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I first noticed what is now called "woody breast" about 7 years ago, but about 2 years ago it got some prevalent that I stopped eating chicken for a while. I eventually found a local farm producer that raises their chickens humanely and doesn't use the super-growing varieties. The cost is not significantly more than factory farmed chicken, it's better for the birds and the quality is night and day better. Plus, they butcher the birds to order - you can get backs and necks for stock for pennies and those birds were happily pecking away earlier that morning.

    I listened to a podcast and did a little research on the subject and they're really stumped. The problem is that it's not unique to the fast-growing breeds - it occurs fairly regularly in the original stock too, so doing some cross-breeding to clear out the problem won't work. They have some new gizmo that can detect woody breast without contact (some difference in conductivity of sound?), which they're looking to bring online while they search for the genetic, environmental or husbandry basis of the condition. Right now, they have the processors feel the meat and redirect anything that feels hinky to the chicken nugget stream. (Apparently, the meat itself is fine, and the textural differences are obliterated by grinding.)

    I suspect that there is some genetic component that has now become concentrated in the breed stock, because there is way more of it today than even a few years ago. Thank god for my local farmer!

  8. Why not try free-range chicken? by Archtech · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Chickens (and other poultry) raised out of doors and allowed to choose their own favourite foods are obviously healthier, happier - and provide far tastier, more healthy meat.

    The hideous fallacy of treating farming as an industry has caused an immense amount of unspeakable suffering for animals, while turning out unpleasant, tasteless meat that lacks vital nutrients - and may contain serious health hazards such as dangerous bacteria, viruses and antibiotics.

    More is not always better. Cheaper is rarely better. Making very rich people even richer is not the purpose of farming.

    --
    I am sure that there are many other solipsists out there.
    1. Re:Why not try free-range chicken? by bussdriver · · Score: 2

      Not at the PRICE they sell it. Naturally if supply is not as massive the price will go up. Too many humans is the main problem, next is the greed of humans.

      We look down on animals that breed themselves into trouble... but we are the worst of all.

  9. TWO possible solutions here by DickBreath · · Score: 2

    1. Find a new marketing gimmick for the stringy chicken meat. Maybe it is for kids!

    2. Make fast growth chickens grow more slowly. Give them something that slows down growth to counteract the growth hormones. Then we can all enjoy two new drugs in our meat.

    --

    I'll see your senator, and I'll raise you two judges.
  10. Woody breast describes my chicken by Snotnose · · Score: 2

    I keep getting recipes calling for 6-8 oz chicken breasts. All I can find in my local megamarts are 1+ lb chicken tits. These are hard to cook, I usually end up halving them horizontally, which makes them cook better, but they don't taste better. Frozen chicken tits are iffy as hell, you never know what you're getting when you buy a bag. I've tried smaller chains and still find either 1+ lb over-amped disasters, or bags of frozen whetevs.

    If you live in a city, where do you find your normal sized chicken boobs?

    That said, I much prefer thighs over breasts. They haven't been bred to ginormous sizes, are cheaper (people are stupid), and taste better than the boobies.

  11. My wife and I raise chickens, but not that type. by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 2

    My wife and I raise chickens, but not that type.

    It sounds like they are talking about a particular four-way hybrid.

    Products of the final cross have an oversupply of anabolic steroids. They literally sit in front of a bowl of food and eat, building muscle and turning into a sedentary "Arnold Schwarzenegger" bird.

    Saw some at a county fair auction. Other chicken types were aware of their surroundings, often looking at other chickens, hunting for bugs, strutting around and showing off, etc. These sat in a row, looking bored, ignoring the crowd and other animals, and desultorily poking at the straw on the platform in front of them, looking for something they'd recognize as food.

    If you decide not to send them to slaughter it doesn't really matter much. They outgrow their circulatory systems and die shortly after market age.

    We know one chicken farmer who stopped raising these, after he noticed that at market age the were still making the little chick "peep peep" call.

    --
    Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
  12. Re:They use Lysine iirc... apk by geekmux · · Score: 2

    ...they put LOADS of chickens in these crates crowded to hell & it hurts a lot of the birds (sad, but we have to eat)...

    24 hours ago you were likely completely unaware that a side effect of raising chickens is spending $200 million to throw away bad product.

    Just wanted to point out that fact to dispel that bullshit "we have to eat" excuse that helps justify cruel and inhumane treatment towards animals. Yes, we do have to eat, but if we can afford to waste that much product in the process and see NO impact on the consumer end, that says a lot about what we have to do in order to produce food for humans.

    And I'd sure as hell prefer to consume a natural product rather than Ahnold Schwarzechicken.

    There are no grocery stores starving for meat product in the US, and we can't even remember a time when there was, so let's not believe everything the meat pushers say.

  13. "Who not to buy from" by ItsJustAPseudonym · · Score: 2

    Thanks for the text. From that information, the guys "not to buy your chicken from" are Tyson Foods Inc., Pilgrim’s Pride Corp. , Perdue Farms Inc. and Sanderson Farms Inc.

  14. Re:Go vegetarian or vegan by jpaine619 · · Score: 4, Funny

    It's all good. When the economy collapses, and civilization falls shortly thereafter, I'm gonna be hunting healthy vegans.. No GMOs/pesticides for me, just tasty and healthy soylent green made from real vegans.

  15. I've been eating woody chicken for years. by No+Longer+an+AC · · Score: 2

    Upon seeing this at first I thought they just put the woody breasts in frozen microwave meals, then I realized there's no way that's breast meat.

    But nobody eats that garbage because it tastes good. I eat it because I'm lazy and I want my food in about 5 minutes. I don't think it matters what brand you buy. it's all the same chicken.

    I don't think I've had spaghetti chicken, but I'm intrigued.