Have you thought of switching the location of your Tab and Backslash? On non-low-end keyboards they have symmetric positions, so you'll enjoy the awesome power of being right. Just run xmodmap on a file containing this:
All your other points I take to be true. Thank you.
My one complaint is that Alt-tab probably takes less time than a 2000 pixel mouse-pan to get across monitors. I guess it comes down to whether you have your hands on the mouse or on the keyboard.
But, having other programs open at the same time, such as Winamp, task manager, a graphing calculator, perhaps a small notepad window for jotting things down - All of those you would normally need to switch back and forth with your primary screen-sucking app. Personally, I usually have some development environment filling my primary screen, and find it very annoying to keep finding my calculator, plug in some numbers, switch back, repeat 200 times a day.
How is this faster than using alt-tab to bring windows to top?
In terms of pixels, you are right. But 2*17*17 is bigger than 21*21, which is a real advantage.
Hm, 578in^2 versus 441in^2. Like you, most of the dual-head-heads here don't split windows across monitors, which IMO kinda devalues their pixels as less useful. I put a piece of thread down the middle of my monitor, and am trying to keep windows from being split by it. So far its infuriating.;)
I've never "gotten" dual head. I guess two 17" monitors running at 1400x1050 are somewhat cheaper than a 21" monitor running at 2048x1536, and they both display about the same # of pixels, but doesn't the seam running down the middle of the dual-head setup really suck?
I'd like to see this study conducted with a constant amount of $ invested in either a 2-head or 1-head rig, and see which comes out on top. I'm betting on 1-head.
Soon the markets will recognize that even your money supply is not beyond the reach of America's enemies, the value of your dollar will crumble, and with no means to finance it your reign of global terror will finally end.
Whew, about time. Our reign of global terror is mighty expensive.
Indeed, the cost of adoption of every new bill type must be high. Methinks they should hurry up and introduce different sized bills, and just get it over with.
(that's important so that you can't bleed the ink off a $5 and then overprint it with a $20 - a popular technique, I'm told)
The release of the new bills is not hush hush. The complete failure of the 2001 bill to stem the rising tide of counterfeiting is being kept hush-hush. They don't want more people jumping on the bandwagon.
Lets put it in car terms, so maybe it will be more obvious to you:
A car theif has to chose between two targets: A Porsche and an art car. Which gets chosen? Always the Porsche.
Bike theives ARE NOT RATIONAL. They want money, but don't really know how to go about it. If a bike looks new, they think it has resale value. I don't think there's much money in bike parts, as the cost of labor to reassemble is >> cost of parts. Except on the very highest-end bikes, which if you've followed my advice you (1) don't have, and (2) doesn't look to a petty thief like you have, even if you had it.
In 2001 they released a new bill design, and said "we want to stay one step ahead of the counterfeiters". Before that the bill had been unchanged for, what, 30 years? And now three years later, they're releasing a new bill? Its being kept hush-hush, but this is a clear sign that our currency is being successfully counterfitted.
solution to bike theft - protective discoloration
on
Toys for Transport?
·
· Score: 1
I learned my technique in Berkeley and San Francisco. Maybe we could compare relative bike crime based on bike carcasses. If you walk down a typical block where you live, how many crippled, stripped for parts, but still locked bikes do you see? In Berkeley, the number is 3ish. In 2 years of living there, I had my seat stolen twice, and my gf lost her handlebars and a back wheel. This was from our back yard, on a semi-seedy street.
The bike repaint technique I mentioned in parent^2 really does work, because crooks are interested in resale value. My boss painted vines on one of his bikes, and painted another to look like a snake. My neighbor just repainted his a sickening pink color. Neither of them have had problems with theft, because theives see these bikes as "quirky", and not resalable.
Another word of advice - don't buy a brand new bike. Buy a decent, $50-200 dollar used bike. That way you're more willing to repaint it, and if you lose it, its less of a blow. I know idiots who buy $1000 mountain bikes with front and back shocks, very shiny, then lock them on the street and are suprised when they're ripped. Its an urban jungle out there. Darwinism plucks the big juicy fruits fast.
We also experimented with buying ultra-low value bikes. Like $20 dollars barely-runs style bikes, and locking them with just a $5 padlock and length of chain. It lasted 1.5 months in downtown San Francisco (overnights), then lost a seat, or wheel, or something. In the meantime it was not very fun or safe to ride. I don't recommend it.
PS: I find that I start out using the route I'd use in a car. That usually means getting passed by lots of cars, which leads to a qualitatively non-optimal commuter experience (=sucks). After a few days, alternate, calmer routes always suggest themselves. Then the bike ride becomes a joy - a welcome athletic diversion from life, a chance to relax and prepare your mind for whatever you're transitioning to, be it work or home.
6.2 miles is a serious distance. It will take between 24 and 36 minutes to bike it depending on how many stop lights you face. So you're going to be spending 4% of your day on that bike, you want a fast, comfy, serious bike, not a toy.
Don't lug it to work, instead lock it at or near the train station. There's always a tree or post available. If security is going to be an issue, buy a used, (thus cheap, expendable), bike, and get out some paint and make it look really, REALLY ugly and undesirable. Then slap on a good lock. Be sure to lock the front tire if you've got quick release wheels.
That's the ticket! Why **** around with pansie volvo airbags, when we can have the laptop call up satellite maps, figure out how far to the floor, and fire its
RETRO ROCKETS!
Once you have rockets on your laptop, why is it falling in the first place? Why not just instruct it to levitate in place unless you move it.
That's the ticket! Why fuck around with pansie volvo airbags, when we can have the laptop call up satellite maps, figure out how far to the floor, and fire its RETRO ROCKETS!
I predict the ATA uses Caller-ID to harvest the phone numbers of everyone who calls them, then states that they have a "prior business relationship" with them, and starts calling them back.
I simply create a PNG, JPG, or GIF with a picture of my email address. No they can't copy-paste it, but you'd have to be a really dedicated address-farmer to automatically harvest that.
Slashdot Mirror
With windows the window on top is on top.
:)
FWIW there is, (or used to be for nt4 and win95), a "Microsoft power-user-tool" for fixing that.
Of course, I would submit that the ultimate windows power user tool is a debian CD. Er, I would, but that would put me off topic.
All your other points I take to be true. Thank you.
My one complaint is that Alt-tab probably takes less time than a 2000 pixel mouse-pan to get across monitors. I guess it comes down to whether you have your hands on the mouse or on the keyboard.
How is this faster than using alt-tab to bring windows to top?
I've never "gotten" dual head. I guess two 17" monitors running at 1400x1050 are somewhat cheaper than a 21" monitor running at 2048x1536, and they both display about the same # of pixels, but doesn't the seam running down the middle of the dual-head setup really suck?
I'd like to see this study conducted with a constant amount of $ invested in either a 2-head or 1-head rig, and see which comes out on top. I'm betting on 1-head.
mod parent up please!
Indeed, the cost of adoption of every new bill type must be high. Methinks they should hurry up and introduce different sized bills, and just get it over with.
(that's important so that you can't bleed the ink off a $5 and then overprint it with a $20 - a popular technique, I'm told)
Can we think of an expermient to test whether the gubmint is 0 steps or 1 step ahead of counterfeitters?
The release of the new bills is not hush hush. The complete failure of the 2001 bill to stem the rising tide of counterfeiting is being kept hush-hush. They don't want more people jumping on the bandwagon.
Good point. Maybe he wants to move more than $20 at a time, and thus a crisp stack of brand new old $20 bills is a problem for him.
Lets put it in car terms, so maybe it will be more obvious to you:
A car theif has to chose between two targets: A Porsche and an art car. Which gets chosen? Always the Porsche.
Bike theives ARE NOT RATIONAL. They want money, but don't really know how to go about it. If a bike looks new, they think it has resale value. I don't think there's much money in bike parts, as the cost of labor to reassemble is >> cost of parts. Except on the very highest-end bikes, which if you've followed my advice you (1) don't have, and (2) doesn't look to a petty thief like you have, even if you had it.
In 2001 they released a new bill design, and said "we want to stay one step ahead of the counterfeiters". Before that the bill had been unchanged for, what, 30 years? And now three years later, they're releasing a new bill? Its being kept hush-hush, but this is a clear sign that our currency is being successfully counterfitted.
I learned my technique in Berkeley and San Francisco. Maybe we could compare relative bike crime based on bike carcasses. If you walk down a typical block where you live, how many crippled, stripped for parts, but still locked bikes do you see? In Berkeley, the number is 3ish. In 2 years of living there, I had my seat stolen twice, and my gf lost her handlebars and a back wheel. This was from our back yard, on a semi-seedy street.
The bike repaint technique I mentioned in parent^2 really does work, because crooks are interested in resale value. My boss painted vines on one of his bikes, and painted another to look like a snake. My neighbor just repainted his a sickening pink color. Neither of them have had problems with theft, because theives see these bikes as "quirky", and not resalable.
Another word of advice - don't buy a brand new bike. Buy a decent, $50-200 dollar used bike. That way you're more willing to repaint it, and if you lose it, its less of a blow. I know idiots who buy $1000 mountain bikes with front and back shocks, very shiny, then lock them on the street and are suprised when they're ripped. Its an urban jungle out there. Darwinism plucks the big juicy fruits fast.
We also experimented with buying ultra-low value bikes. Like $20 dollars barely-runs style bikes, and locking them with just a $5 padlock and length of chain. It lasted 1.5 months in downtown San Francisco (overnights), then lost a seat, or wheel, or something. In the meantime it was not very fun or safe to ride. I don't recommend it.
PS: I find that I start out using the route I'd use in a car. That usually means getting passed by lots of cars, which leads to a qualitatively non-optimal commuter experience (=sucks). After a few days, alternate, calmer routes always suggest themselves. Then the bike ride becomes a joy - a welcome athletic diversion from life, a chance to relax and prepare your mind for whatever you're transitioning to, be it work or home.
6.2 miles is a serious distance. It will take between 24 and 36 minutes to bike it depending on how many stop lights you face. So you're going to be spending 4% of your day on that bike, you want a fast, comfy, serious bike, not a toy.
Don't lug it to work, instead lock it at or near the train station. There's always a tree or post available. If security is going to be an issue, buy a used, (thus cheap, expendable), bike, and get out some paint and make it look really, REALLY ugly and undesirable. Then slap on a good lock. Be sure to lock the front tire if you've got quick release wheels.
pay phones = your friend.
That's the ticket! Why fuck around with pansie volvo airbags, when we can have the laptop call up satellite maps, figure out how far to the floor, and fire its RETRO ROCKETS!
I predict the ATA uses Caller-ID to harvest the phone numbers of everyone who calls them, then states that they have a "prior business relationship" with them, and starts calling them back.
Hey, don't make my collectible 12" tall IG-88 doll, worth $550 on eBay, come over there and kick your *ss!
I simply create a PNG, JPG, or GIF with a picture of my email address. No they can't copy-paste it, but you'd have to be a really dedicated address-farmer to automatically harvest that.
Adventure? HA! Excitement? Heh! A jedi craves not these things.
Dude, half-elves are scientifically documented FACT. And you're the TROLL! Ha ha, Santa's going to give you nothing but COAL this year!