Show me a computer that can do these things, driving at 100%, 100% of the time, on all roads, in all conditions, with people around doing whatever it is that people do.
Show me a computer that cannot be blinded by the sun.
Show me a computer that can see through rain.
Hell, show me a computer that can do any of the things you talk about without spilling my coffee because from what I've seen, computer drivers are full-on 100% until PANIC STOP.
AFAICT, most automobile glass (especially the windshield) is covered without a deductible on any vehicle that has full coverage, in most states, usually.
The theory that I've read is that it is cheaper to repair/replace the slightly-damaged glass, than pay for the repercussions (which may include personal injury) of total failure later.
(If you drive around with liability coverage only, or live in a no-fault state that doesn't require insurance at all and therefore have none, you're on your own: You've made your bed, now sleep in it.)
And what is it that makes a convicted, dues-paid felon less qualified to vote than all of the other felons who have not been convicted (much less caught), but who still get to vote and legally own a firearm?
You can't compute random human behavior out of this particular safety equation unless you first produce a vehicle with perfect performance characteristics (which is impossible to do, with friction being what it is).
The instant I see a kid with a ball, even from several blocks away, I'm already planning to or actively beginning to slow down. It doesn't matter if the ball starts heading that direction: I recognize that there are unpredictable things happening ahead, and reduce speed accordingly. Slowing down also allows the kid more chance to observe my vehicle and its direction of travel, automatically decreasing the chance that a kid or a ball will wind up in the path of my car to begin with.
I'm unwilling to make a blanket assumption that one method, by itself, is better than the other.
Ideally, the computer would recognize kids playing just as I do, and pre-emptively slow down all by itself, thus minimizing braking distance in case a ball or a kid -does- enter the road.
And that will remain the ideal case as long as braking distance remains >0, and humans continue to behave as humans (including little humans).
In the event of a kid who is about to kick a ball into a street: I see one or more kid playing in a yard, see a ball, and I'm already proactively slowing down just in case something goes wrong.
The computer-driver has no mechanism to pre-emptively guess about what the kids in the yard might do next. All it can do is react to stuff that is in its way.
Not all inkjet printers are manufactured by assholes.
The only grief my Brother inkjet printer gave me about third-party ink was when upon installing the Windows drivers, that it proudly proclaimed that using such aftermarket ink would NOT void the warranty. (It did express that they felt that their own ink is better, but meh.)
There are no chips. It's just an ink tank, full of ink. I buy them for next-to-nothing from Ebay or Amazon depending on what mood I'm in. The printer has no idea that it is a third-party product; all it has is an optical sensor to detect the level of ink inside of the tank.
The guts are in the printer. And the printer flushes the heads once a day to make sure that non-use isn't ever an issue. (This does not seem to use any meaningful amount of ink.)
Bad deal? I've put a couple of thousand sheets through this machine in the past two years (no, I'm not doing any voluminous printing) and have a total expenditure of around $75, including paper, printer, and ink.
My Brother inkjet cheerfully accepts third-party ink. Indeed, while installing the Windows drivers, it even says (in plain English!) that using such ink WILL NOT void the warranty...though they do proclaim that their own ink is better. (I note zero difference between the output of the two, with my calibrated eyeball.)
The printer was $50, and I haven't spent another dime with Brother because, well, I don't have to. (Both Amazon and Ebay are full of third-party ink vendors for this printer, all of whom seem to be selling slight variations on exactly the same new ink carts for so little money that it almost doesn't matter.)
Oh, and the printer flushes the heads every day at 11:00AM, which means that it won't ever die from non-use as long as it has ink and is plugged in.
My $50 Brother inkjet all-in-one (which I love for my low-volume needs; see above for a description) has no Ethernet port, and no USB port.
It does have Wifi, however. And even my Droid prints to it just fine.
Open your mind.:)
(Also, it's actually very handy, even in a house with a prolific array of hard-wired Ethernet jacks, to be able to unplug a printer, plop it down on any horizontal surface, plug it back in, and have it just sort of work: If someone in the house has a project that they want to burn paper with, all they have to do is move it somewhere near an outlet.)
My $50 Brother inkjet uses cheap (~$10 shipped for 7 carts? Thankyouverymuch!) ink, and works like a champion, and does a self-clean every day at 11:00AM (which solves, completely, the "it breaks if you use it too little" problem).
I'd like to say that I'd rather have a laser printer (and indeed, have owned a Laserjet III and a 5N, each with over a million pages printed, and each of which were old enough to drive by the time I retired them), but meh: I just don't print enough stuff to bother with a laser printer anymore.
I used to make maps for driving and print photos and print documentation and....now, I don't do any of that stuff. For maps I have Waze, Google Maps, or Garmin. For photos, I just send them out over teh Intarwebs to Wal-Mart and pick them up with my shopping after their Fuji wet-process photographic printer spits them out.
Documentation doesn't need printed, because unlike a decade ago, I've got multiple ways of viewing a PDF, at least one of which is always with me at all times: At most, I print out a few pages of wiring diagrams just because it's handy to spread them out on a table, or tuck into a clipboard for use when my hands are covered in grime.
Actual business? Meh. I conduct business with email: I haven't licked an envelope in years.
I've used this cheap Brother inkjet for a couple of years, now. I've got about $75 in it including ink and paper and the original cost of the printer. It groks Wifi, the drivers aren't too annoying, and it just works.
It also scans and copies, and if I still had a phone line, it would fax. Huzzah.
My only complaints are that neither the printer nor the scanner does duplexing.
Labelist. I submit to you that Mario fans are pretty damned hardcore, especially if they've been with the franchise since its inception.
Indeed. The only reason I have a garish red Wii sitting on a shelf next to my Krell and Lexicon gear (alongside a PS3, a 360, and various old, black consoles that I've restored), is that the only Wii to come with Mario happened to be red at that time.
(Disclaimer: I remember playing Mario in arcades, before I laid hands on an NES.)
Am I the only person in America who is not a felon, but who believes that convicted felons should be able to have guns AND vote once they've pay their dues (with prison, or whatever), just like regular non-felon folks are able to do?
Disposal costs? Lead is very easily and profitably recycled. The last battery I sold was a decent-sized SLA; I got $9 and some change for it at a neighborhood scrap yard. It will be turned into new car batteries or somesuch. If you think lead is expensive to dispose of, you're doing it wrong.
The generator is a bad idea. Fuel gets old, fluids need changing (even if it is never actually used), engines need run periodically, they have their own batteries to maintain, and etc. Standby generators are not cheap propositions, if there is any expectation that it actually work when needed.
I think the whole thing is being vastly over-thought, anyway: So the power goes out, and it is dark. So what? Do the raccoons, bats, and neighborhood housecats need light? It's cheaper, safer (no candles need burning, no houses catch fire), and more useful to give everyone a cheap LED flashlight, if having light outside is so critically important to human existence.
And I'm not sure that it is.
There are well-populated neighborhoods that don't have any street lights all over the country, and mayhem and chaos don't seem to continuously erupt there. For that matter, the town of Port Clinton, Ohio, purposefully goes into blackout mode for a few weeks every year when the mayflies are at peak, and this darkness doesn't seem to make Port Clinton any crazier than it normally is.....
(Amusingly, before they started doing this, they ran snowplows to literally debug the streets every morning: The little fuckers and their gooey entrails would pile up under each and every visible light.)
According to what I've read, NiFe batteries can last darn near forever (as far as batteries go), but they do require maintenance: The electrolyte needs occasional topping-off and replacement.
Which is roughly enough to run a single streetlight all night, assuming that the streetlight draws around 100W (which I think is a reasonable assumption). (100 Ah * 12V = 1,200 Watt-hours / 100 Watts == 12 hours runtime, ish.)
Meanwhile, a quick Google search shows that a 100Ah deep-cycle lead acid costs around $200.
Is NiFe a better value at around 5 times the initial cost, factoring maintenance requirements? It all depends...
I've seen regular incandescent traffic lights clogged by snow, too. Especially the yellow light, or whichever red/green light defaults to "off."
It's just part of driving: If you can't see what the traffic light is indicating (be it because of dead bulbs or power outages or snow or whatever), stop, look out the window(s), and see what's happening. Go when safe.
NBD.
(That said, this discussion happens whenever anyone mentions anything about using anything LED in a public space. The answer to the snow problem is and has always been heaters, and it's the same answer no matter if it is LED or incandescent or carbon-arc or...)
(Yes, a simple hardware reset switch would do, but that can actually be harder to do as you have to support a wipe-able storage for that).
You're overthinking this. The reset switch in any bit of modern consumer goods just signals the software (usually with a GPIO pin or similar) that it has been pushed. The software then behaves however it is programmed to behave based on this condition.
Simple hardware reset switches went away when battery-backed CMOS RAM got replaced with flash EEPROM for storage of configuration details.
OK, you're asking "why a 20" tablet? WTF?" - one vertical market for this is radiologists, who definitely need all the resolution they can get, high dynamic range, and a big screencovered in fingerprints.
Slashdot Mirror
Sure.
Show me a computer that can do these things, driving at 100%, 100% of the time, on all roads, in all conditions, with people around doing whatever it is that people do.
Show me a computer that cannot be blinded by the sun.
Show me a computer that can see through rain.
Hell, show me a computer that can do any of the things you talk about without spilling my coffee because from what I've seen, computer drivers are full-on 100% until PANIC STOP.
Taxis already travel at higher-than-normal speeds.
Sounding the horn/flashing lights/invoking a magic RF-based warning widget is a matter of procedure, not of automation.
AFAICT, most automobile glass (especially the windshield) is covered without a deductible on any vehicle that has full coverage, in most states, usually.
The theory that I've read is that it is cheaper to repair/replace the slightly-damaged glass, than pay for the repercussions (which may include personal injury) of total failure later.
(If you drive around with liability coverage only, or live in a no-fault state that doesn't require insurance at all and therefore have none, you're on your own: You've made your bed, now sleep in it.)
What is my kind, strawman?
And what is it that makes a convicted, dues-paid felon less qualified to vote than all of the other felons who have not been convicted (much less caught), but who still get to vote and legally own a firearm?
Except he's not sure which console it is that he bought, or what game it was that he bought it for.
Passerby: "What year is your Corvette?"
OP: "I bought this Ford last year."
Uranus.
$2000, not including parts and labor?
What is the $2000 for, if not parts and labor? Hookers and blow?
You can't compute random human behavior out of this particular safety equation unless you first produce a vehicle with perfect performance characteristics (which is impossible to do, with friction being what it is).
The instant I see a kid with a ball, even from several blocks away, I'm already planning to or actively beginning to slow down. It doesn't matter if the ball starts heading that direction: I recognize that there are unpredictable things happening ahead, and reduce speed accordingly. Slowing down also allows the kid more chance to observe my vehicle and its direction of travel, automatically decreasing the chance that a kid or a ball will wind up in the path of my car to begin with.
I'm unwilling to make a blanket assumption that one method, by itself, is better than the other.
Ideally, the computer would recognize kids playing just as I do, and pre-emptively slow down all by itself, thus minimizing braking distance in case a ball or a kid -does- enter the road.
And that will remain the ideal case as long as braking distance remains >0, and humans continue to behave as humans (including little humans).
In the event of a kid who is about to kick a ball into a street: I see one or more kid playing in a yard, see a ball, and I'm already proactively slowing down just in case something goes wrong.
The computer-driver has no mechanism to pre-emptively guess about what the kids in the yard might do next. All it can do is react to stuff that is in its way.
Sex, drugs, or rock & roll?
Stop saying that.
Not all inkjet printers are manufactured by assholes.
The only grief my Brother inkjet printer gave me about third-party ink was when upon installing the Windows drivers, that it proudly proclaimed that using such aftermarket ink would NOT void the warranty. (It did express that they felt that their own ink is better, but meh.)
There are no chips. It's just an ink tank, full of ink. I buy them for next-to-nothing from Ebay or Amazon depending on what mood I'm in. The printer has no idea that it is a third-party product; all it has is an optical sensor to detect the level of ink inside of the tank.
The guts are in the printer. And the printer flushes the heads once a day to make sure that non-use isn't ever an issue. (This does not seem to use any meaningful amount of ink.)
Bad deal? I've put a couple of thousand sheets through this machine in the past two years (no, I'm not doing any voluminous printing) and have a total expenditure of around $75, including paper, printer, and ink.
It just works.
My Brother inkjet cheerfully accepts third-party ink. Indeed, while installing the Windows drivers, it even says (in plain English!) that using such ink WILL NOT void the warranty...though they do proclaim that their own ink is better. (I note zero difference between the output of the two, with my calibrated eyeball.)
The printer was $50, and I haven't spent another dime with Brother because, well, I don't have to. (Both Amazon and Ebay are full of third-party ink vendors for this printer, all of whom seem to be selling slight variations on exactly the same new ink carts for so little money that it almost doesn't matter.)
Oh, and the printer flushes the heads every day at 11:00AM, which means that it won't ever die from non-use as long as it has ink and is plugged in.
My $50 Brother inkjet all-in-one (which I love for my low-volume needs; see above for a description) has no Ethernet port, and no USB port.
It does have Wifi, however. And even my Droid prints to it just fine.
Open your mind. :)
(Also, it's actually very handy, even in a house with a prolific array of hard-wired Ethernet jacks, to be able to unplug a printer, plop it down on any horizontal surface, plug it back in, and have it just sort of work: If someone in the house has a project that they want to burn paper with, all they have to do is move it somewhere near an outlet.)
My $50 Brother inkjet uses cheap (~$10 shipped for 7 carts? Thankyouverymuch!) ink, and works like a champion, and does a self-clean every day at 11:00AM (which solves, completely, the "it breaks if you use it too little" problem).
I'd like to say that I'd rather have a laser printer (and indeed, have owned a Laserjet III and a 5N, each with over a million pages printed, and each of which were old enough to drive by the time I retired them), but meh: I just don't print enough stuff to bother with a laser printer anymore.
I used to make maps for driving and print photos and print documentation and....now, I don't do any of that stuff. For maps I have Waze, Google Maps, or Garmin. For photos, I just send them out over teh Intarwebs to Wal-Mart and pick them up with my shopping after their Fuji wet-process photographic printer spits them out.
Documentation doesn't need printed, because unlike a decade ago, I've got multiple ways of viewing a PDF, at least one of which is always with me at all times: At most, I print out a few pages of wiring diagrams just because it's handy to spread them out on a table, or tuck into a clipboard for use when my hands are covered in grime.
Actual business? Meh. I conduct business with email: I haven't licked an envelope in years.
I've used this cheap Brother inkjet for a couple of years, now. I've got about $75 in it including ink and paper and the original cost of the printer. It groks Wifi, the drivers aren't too annoying, and it just works.
It also scans and copies, and if I still had a phone line, it would fax. Huzzah.
My only complaints are that neither the printer nor the scanner does duplexing.
*shrug*
Since when is 10,000 pages considered a lot for a printer?
That's what, just 2 boxes of paper?
Indeed. The only reason I have a garish red Wii sitting on a shelf next to my Krell and Lexicon gear (alongside a PS3, a 360, and various old, black consoles that I've restored), is that the only Wii to come with Mario happened to be red at that time.
(Disclaimer: I remember playing Mario in arcades, before I laid hands on an NES.)
Nintendo hasn't been a trendsetter for a decade or more.
I'm pretty sure that they're more acutely aware of this than you are.
In any event, you've just invalidated everything that you just wrote.
Either you're an idiot, or an idiot. You decide.
Cheers!
Am I the only person in America who is not a felon, but who believes that convicted felons should be able to have guns AND vote once they've pay their dues (with prison, or whatever), just like regular non-felon folks are able to do?
Disposal costs? Lead is very easily and profitably recycled. The last battery I sold was a decent-sized SLA; I got $9 and some change for it at a neighborhood scrap yard. It will be turned into new car batteries or somesuch. If you think lead is expensive to dispose of, you're doing it wrong.
The generator is a bad idea. Fuel gets old, fluids need changing (even if it is never actually used), engines need run periodically, they have their own batteries to maintain, and etc. Standby generators are not cheap propositions, if there is any expectation that it actually work when needed.
I think the whole thing is being vastly over-thought, anyway: So the power goes out, and it is dark. So what? Do the raccoons, bats, and neighborhood housecats need light? It's cheaper, safer (no candles need burning, no houses catch fire), and more useful to give everyone a cheap LED flashlight, if having light outside is so critically important to human existence.
And I'm not sure that it is.
There are well-populated neighborhoods that don't have any street lights all over the country, and mayhem and chaos don't seem to continuously erupt there. For that matter, the town of Port Clinton, Ohio, purposefully goes into blackout mode for a few weeks every year when the mayflies are at peak, and this darkness doesn't seem to make Port Clinton any crazier than it normally is.....
(Amusingly, before they started doing this, they ran snowplows to literally debug the streets every morning: The little fuckers and their gooey entrails would pile up under each and every visible light.)
According to what I've read, NiFe batteries can last darn near forever (as far as batteries go), but they do require maintenance: The electrolyte needs occasional topping-off and replacement.
Furthermore, they're expensive.
According to these folks, the smallest 12V package is $1010.00, and consists of ten 6x3x15 cells of 15 pounds each. It provides 100 Ah of 12V power.
Which is roughly enough to run a single streetlight all night, assuming that the streetlight draws around 100W (which I think is a reasonable assumption). (100 Ah * 12V = 1,200 Watt-hours / 100 Watts == 12 hours runtime, ish.)
Meanwhile, a quick Google search shows that a 100Ah deep-cycle lead acid costs around $200.
Is NiFe a better value at around 5 times the initial cost, factoring maintenance requirements? It all depends...
I've seen regular incandescent traffic lights clogged by snow, too. Especially the yellow light, or whichever red/green light defaults to "off."
It's just part of driving: If you can't see what the traffic light is indicating (be it because of dead bulbs or power outages or snow or whatever), stop, look out the window(s), and see what's happening. Go when safe.
NBD.
(That said, this discussion happens whenever anyone mentions anything about using anything LED in a public space. The answer to the snow problem is and has always been heaters, and it's the same answer no matter if it is LED or incandescent or carbon-arc or...)
You're overthinking this. The reset switch in any bit of modern consumer goods just signals the software (usually with a GPIO pin or similar) that it has been pushed. The software then behaves however it is programmed to behave based on this condition.
Simple hardware reset switches went away when battery-backed CMOS RAM got replaced with flash EEPROM for storage of configuration details.
No, I've never noticed any ads at all on Youtube.
Perhaps you're just holding it wrong.
OK, you're asking "why a 20" tablet? WTF?" - one vertical market for this is radiologists, who definitely need all the resolution they can get, high dynamic range, and a big screen covered in fingerprints.
(there, I fixed that for you)