A lot of people also prefer a physical book over reading from a display. Then print it, or offer it as a mail order item from the publisher. Put it on a wall, in a binder, whatever. There are plenty of services to print rather large for a reasonable price, but for the sake of keeping artists and performers in business I would propose they sell something in wide format.
Call me silly but in the age of HDTV & DVD does it not make sense to incorporate all this data one had on 12 inch a have it displayable? Even a 15 inch monitor would be adequate, and hell with an rss feed you can pop in that disc and not only get your album graphics but updated information as to when tours are going to happen, when the next album is coming out, and even other projects.
12 inch was a nice format, but space savings is more important to me than raw information.
Well part of it is Firewire isn't a replacement for USB. I haven't seen a Firewire keyboard, mouse, printer, or joystick. I have seen at least one Firewire printer. The Epson r800 has a firewire port, as i'm sure the higher end models do.
I'll agree I've not seen firewire for most letter/a4 printers, but it's often an option for wide models like the canon i9900. I'm shocked it doesn't seem to be offered on the Epson 1400.
People would say "open up Netscape" instead of "open up your browser" just ten years ago. I was going to address some of the Internet in a Box type solutions using mosaic 10-13 years ago.
10 years ago IIRC there was at least I.e. 4.0 IIRC. I remember in 1999 pseudo geeks promoting netscape over I.E. claiming it was faster, but I simply didn't see it. But when win95 was new, Netscape was top of the pops.
Pre win95 you either were able to download Winsock, or had to resort to buying something like internet in a box which often came with a custom version of mosaic. I remember Quarterdeck had a solution which seemed to out perform the Trumpet's solution.
god i remember that - and sitting on a 2400 baud modem.. what a wonder the web was at that time.. I don't know which was worse, those stuck at 2400baud or those without a math-co for.jpg decoding.
The Apple store doesn't sell pc-board mount DB-9 connectors. Hell, they don't even sell soldering irons. Should they? I don't know of any apple equipment that even uses DB-9 connectors. DB-25 yes, but not DB-9. They used mini-8s when serial was still in vogue.
they sell porn and energy drinks within 20 feet of each other Yes, but I shreek at the idea of standing in line with people consuming energy drinks and porn. This doesn't make me happy!
48 virgins are yours! Enjoy! What they don't tell you is the 48 virgins are comic book geeks, furry geeks, con geeks, pretty much anyone who couldn't get laid in real life.
What happens if they arrest someone? "Okay buddy! In the basket!"? I would "imagine" they hold the person at the scene until such time as a squad car can come their way. But someone from NYC might be more accurate.
They still have rubbish mpg. How can a vehicle that weighs only slighly more than a large man manage only about 40mpg?? Its farcical. If it did the same mpg per kilo as a car motorbikes should be hitting 300mpg easy. Piaggio scooters get between 50-80mpg according to the website. While I'm sure the Harlies the NYPD uses are not the most efficient bikes, I'm sure they are more efficient than the Dodge Chargers (12-15mpg) or Ford Crown Victorias (15-18mpg IIRC).
How can a vehicle that weighs only slighly more than a large man manage only about 40mpg?? Easily when the engine size is that of an average econobox. I can't imagine the need for a 1.8l bike, but still in contrast to their fleet autos, the full sized bikes are an improvement.
On the other hand, it seems silly to replace motorcycles (already quite fuel-efficient due to their light weight) while leaving gas-guzzling cars and SUVs in the fleet. Why not replace all patrol cars with hybrids? They can run on battery around town, and switch over to ICE for the high-speed chases (obviously you'd want something beefier than a Prius). According to Piaggio their scooters get 50 to 80mpg rather than a Prius which according to toyota.com gets 46mpg. I can't say which Piaggio scooters the NYPD are using, for all I know they could be using the 2cycle version.
I also read they are using 2006 Dodge Chargers which get 13/18mpg and mostly ye old Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor common among law enforcement and not much better on fuel.
Why not replace all patrol cars with hybrids? So in terms of raw fuel use, you are likely correct that addressing the gas guzzlers would likely result in the greatest environmental benefit. But I'm sure the big issue is cost. Even so, I'm sure they could migrate much of their fleet to slightly more energy efficient autos.
Somebody I work with recently bought a Prius. He says it uses less fuel than his motorbike. Keep in mind that there are many size engines in motorbikes, even larger than a 1.5l prius engine. 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan is one.
ISTM that buying "preloaded calipers" would be a huge increase in time. It takes all of about 15 seconds to put the pads in the calipers, maybe another minute to press down the adjuster too. It certainly takes more than 15 seconds. In the past I've had others load pads on my calipers for me, and it took them at best 12min. On YOUR car it might take 15sec, but my last car, not even. I don't know about my current car as I didn't have a manual handy when I needed brakes.
But needless to say, trained mechanics that helped me with my pads recommended pre-loaded calipers as it would be what they would buy for my car at the time.
Problem is, if you replace the caliper, you have to bleed the system. I don't know why you'd want to replace the caliper anyway if there's nothing wrong with it. I've probably only replaced 3 or 4 calipers in my life. You should be replacing the brake fluid anyway, or at the very least testing. Given the cost of test strips vs the cost of a pint of brake fluid, might as well flush the system. Technically one probably should consider flushing before a brake job. Ford and BMW and Suburu say about 30k. Fluid boil is a legit concern.
I've never even seen a place selling "preloaded calipers". Seems to me this is like buying a refrigerator preloaded with milk and eggs. Not exactly. Odds are if you need a caliper you should consider pads as well. There clearly is enough of a market for pre-loaded calipers for me to be able to buy them. The added cost is $25/side and assurance that you get a new set of rubber seals. I will consult a Hayes auto manual on the subject to see if pad replacement on this car is as easy as other cars, but either way I wouldn't do a brakejob without flushing the system.
Whu? I've done my own brakes since I was a teenager. DISCS are the simple ones. Drums always take longer; you have to get an adjuster in there to back off the tension just to get the drum off, once you do that there's a bunch of springs and levers, all of which are probably half rusted up so you need to clean everything, etc. I've done my own brakes since I was a teenager, and I can say discs always take me longer. Even taking into account the tension to get the drum off, you have two shoes held together by two springs with the tension thing in the middle. I imagine if my old cars had calipers with easier systems of removal and replacement I would modify that statement.
I don't have to bleed them since I don't take any hydraulics apart. The only way you can KNOW you have to bleed them is to test the fluid. Test strips cost as much as a pint of fluid. I'm sure there are other ways to test the system, but really it should be part of preventative maintenance. Water saturation does decrease the boiling point of the fluid, and this can result in a serious condition.
This I didn't know. I sort of figured that whatever shop a mechanic ends up working for would provide the tools. Most of my experience base comes from a shop class, a really bad shop class. I think it was the woodshop teacher who got suckered into the job because he took one glass on the college level, one which he said he didn't remember. But I have talked to mechanics and being employed at any shop you are not only required to provide your own tools, it's often preferred by the mechanics. There is this mind/body/tool connection that needs to be achieved which can't happen if you swap out tools. Easco, Snapon, Matco, Mac, and SK are some of the popular mechanic grade tools. They really are not cheap, $10 to $20 for an average wrench. SK offers a basic body set for about $2000 same with a 227 piece starter set. A master set is close to $10,000. Snap-On I know more about, and they offer some installment plans on their tools. Not so bad if this is your trade.
The shop only really provides a lift, air power, and in rare cases a PC with a library of manuals. In some cases a machine shop on site. I'm sort of vague on the site/mechanic relationship, I would wager many mechanics essentially rent shop space, where others actually are employed by a company.
After looking at several online parts suppliers, it does appear that only the re-manufactured parts have core charges while the "new" models do not. So I stand corrected. My local parts shop had to explain it to me. If a company is in the business of manufacturing new parts, they don't want the old core back as they don't rebuild them. But if their business is rebuilding parts they need the old cores.
I'm willing to be corrected on shops, rather than parts suppliers. It may be possible that shops ask for the core even if they are replacing a new part. They might have a deal with parts builders, they might be getting extra income that way. To me, I think that's dandy. Reduce, reuse, recycle. But just so long as it's clear they are recycling your old parts rather than sending the old one back to the manufacturer.
My girlfriend owns an '04 Honda and it is not nearly so easy to work on (changing the oil requires putting the car on a lift, as the ground clearance is too low, and the jack points are too small and low for a standard jack, for example). I would usually use ramps for oil changes, but I have experienced cars where the front end dipped too low so driving onto ramps resulted in the ramps getting caught and dragging them forward. I don't know the 2004 honda, but usually there is a scissors jack that one uses to change the tires.
I bought an oil sucking pump and tried changing her oil that way a few weeks ago -- the pump's hose broke off and fell into the oil pan, and I ended up taking it to a mechanic (he had to pull the motor up in order to drop the oil pan off). I feel your pain here. to do a clutch in a 1986 Camry requires removal of so much stuff such as a front end stabilizer bar. It was such hard work I wondered whether it would be easier just to pull the engine. On a side note, the oil pan nut was stripped which I recommended replacing the pan, which was rejected due to cost. I then recommended pulling the pan and tapping the bolt a larger size requiring only a gasket replacement, that was rejected. Too bad as well, the vehicle was loosing at least a quart every two weeks, and you can see how that could add up fast.
I consider my self mechanically adept, but given my experience with my first car I found it easier to just buy pre-loaded calipers. I'm comfortable replacing a clutch, pulling an engine, but pads are where I draw the line.
My guess is that if a mechanic is skilled, trained, and has a lot of equipment, doing a brake job on most cars would be pretty easy -- comparable to replacing a hard drive for a computer geek (pull apart case, plug in, boot up, format disk, reinstall os/mirror old disk onto new disk). I would rank the mechanic profession as requiring much more in the way of investment. As you might expect, a mechanic provides their own tools, and not the cheap ones you or I buy, brands like Snap-On. Buying the manuals isn't cheep either, there are often libraries on CD-ROM/DVD to handle most every symptom. On top of that emission requirements.
Replace the worn bits, and the 'core' can be reused/rebuilt into an almost new part.....Tires and batteries carry an environmental disposal fee. Tires and batteries I was confused on as one can take a tire and use it's 'core' to make retreads. I don't know what my shop does with used tires. Batteries it's the core that is toxic. Where I live there is defiantly a charge for not returning your old battery, and at least at Costco a charge for not returning a tire when replacing them.
I'm sure I pay a disposal fee, just i've never seen it itemized, where others I imagine pay a fine for not disposing at the place of purchase.
That makes no sense at all. Replacing pads is far easier than replacing the whole caliper.....
OK, I listed more steps than you, but only because you missed things out like replacing brake fluid and bleeding the system, which is a two man, time consuming process. In reality you do far more work than I do. That's true, I missed that step, however your list of steps is dependent on the type of caliper. Some cars you can swap pads without removing the caliper. Others the you can dismount the caliper from the bracket which holds the pads via two bolts. My prior car it was, near as I'm aware and according to my Hayes manual, not possible to pull the pads while one bolt was mounted on the car, and I failed at getting pads back on and had to resort to phoning the friendly neighborhood tree mechanic who would complain how tedious my calipers were. My current car, I didn't bother to look, I needed brakes, 4 bolts, one hose, machine shop, bleed, done. Gross motor skills only, no fine detail required.
My current car, what you propose might be possible, in fact I thought unbolting the caliper bracket. But spending an extra $25x2 to save my self a tedious dirty task is most excellent.
I accept criticism that I spend too much on brakes. I could save my self 50% by buying pads only. But of the things on my car I'm willing to invest extra money in, it's brakes. But I don't accept criticism regarding bleeding the brakes every time they are replaced, in fact I probably should flush the lines every 30k miles. Moisture in the lines reduces the boiling point of the fluid and can result in a serious condition.
ive never heard of trading in calipers like that either, alternators yes, engines, yes, gearboxes yes and even air conditioner compressors, but never calipers!!!! I had to phone around to find pre-loaded calipers. I'll agree they are more rare than any other automobile part, but in the past 15 years that's what I've bought.
Wait, what? You replace the calipers as well as the discs and pads? Isn't that a bit expensive and time-consuming? $25x2 is what it costs me above and beyond the cost of the pads.
I expect to spend $100-$150 for
1. A pair of pre-loaded rebuilt calipers 2. Rotor turning 3. misc cleaners, fluids, etc... etc...
This is something in my last car, and I would do this between 75k and 100k. I could do the job for 1/2 the price if I didn't go for pre-loaded calipers and rotor turning, but given I'm not very likely to keep a car much beyond 300,000 miles, we are talking and extra $300 for the lifetime of a vehicle.
Really? And my magical genie in the sky doesn't like people using the word the, so I find that pretty offensive. And of course, because some moron believes it, we should thus pander to their delusions. I said no such thing. I did suggest a possible reason based on Mr. Norris's quotes but someone else offered a more likely explanation that they are not really offended used this as an excuse to express their religious views.
Personally I have had enough lies from strongly religious people, and will not sway my way for their delusions, or any other psychotic. Best of luck with that.
Strongly religious people are not automatically delusional. The worst you can call it is a false belief or a conclusion based on incorrect information. Don't get me wrong, I don't enjoy zealots, those who can't grasp you're not buying their version of peace and eternal bliss internally censure them selves when it's bloody obvious someone isn't interested. But I lump theistic and atheistic zealots in the same basket. OS zealots get their own basket, automobile zealots get their own, etc etc.
A wise person told me once, there is more to life than not believing in something.
I found it to be incredibly easy, though perhaps Subies are easier-than-your-average-car. It took me about 25-30 minutes plus driving down the road/washing my hands with orange cleaner time. I can't say i've worked on a suburu, but 25-30min is pretty stellar for a first time out. I can say buying pre-loaded calipers and having one come unassembled it took the mechanic 12min to re-assemble one without a work bench.
Missing from your estimate is rotor turning, which may or may not be needed, bleeding and at least 5min on the road.
I take longer because I tend to clean very throughly.
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Call me silly but in the age of HDTV & DVD does it not make sense to incorporate all this data one had on 12 inch a have it displayable? Even a 15 inch monitor would be adequate, and hell with an rss feed you can pop in that disc and not only get your album graphics but updated information as to when tours are going to happen, when the next album is coming out, and even other projects.
12 inch was a nice format, but space savings is more important to me than raw information.
I'll agree I've not seen firewire for most letter/a4 printers, but it's often an option for wide models like the canon i9900. I'm shocked it doesn't seem to be offered on the Epson 1400.
10 years ago IIRC there was at least I.e. 4.0 IIRC. I remember in 1999 pseudo geeks promoting netscape over I.E. claiming it was faster, but I simply didn't see it. But when win95 was new, Netscape was top of the pops.
Pre win95 you either were able to download Winsock, or had to resort to buying something like internet in a box which often came with a custom version of mosaic. I remember Quarterdeck had a solution which seemed to out perform the Trumpet's solution.
Please enjoy your virgins.
Scrumptious Carp Ovaries?
While I'm sure the Harlies the NYPD uses are not the most efficient bikes, I'm sure they are more efficient than the Dodge Chargers (12-15mpg) or Ford Crown Victorias (15-18mpg IIRC). How can a vehicle that weighs only slighly more than a large man manage only about 40mpg?? Easily when the engine size is that of an average econobox. I can't imagine the need for a 1.8l bike, but still in contrast to their fleet autos, the full sized bikes are an improvement.
I also read they are using 2006 Dodge Chargers which get 13/18mpg and mostly ye old Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor common among law enforcement and not much better on fuel. Why not replace all patrol cars with hybrids? So in terms of raw fuel use, you are likely correct that addressing the gas guzzlers would likely result in the greatest environmental benefit. But I'm sure the big issue is cost. Even so, I'm sure they could migrate much of their fleet to slightly more energy efficient autos.
This is NOT exactly the vehicle that one would really consider for any sort of high speed chase. Or hell, think of them on an interstate.
But still I'm sure they have their practical uses.
But needless to say, trained mechanics that helped me with my pads recommended pre-loaded calipers as it would be what they would buy for my car at the time. Problem is, if you replace the caliper, you have to bleed the system. I don't know why you'd want to replace the caliper anyway if there's nothing wrong with it. I've probably only replaced 3 or 4 calipers in my life. You should be replacing the brake fluid anyway, or at the very least testing. Given the cost of test strips vs the cost of a pint of brake fluid, might as well flush the system. Technically one probably should consider flushing before a brake job. Ford and BMW and Suburu say about 30k. Fluid boil is a legit concern. I've never even seen a place selling "preloaded calipers". Seems to me this is like buying a refrigerator preloaded with milk and eggs. Not exactly. Odds are if you need a caliper you should consider pads as well. There clearly is enough of a market for pre-loaded calipers for me to be able to buy them. The added cost is $25/side and assurance that you get a new set of rubber seals. I will consult a Hayes auto manual on the subject to see if pad replacement on this car is as easy as other cars, but either way I wouldn't do a brakejob without flushing the system.
SK offers a basic body set for about $2000 same with a 227 piece starter set. A master set is close to $10,000. Snap-On I know more about, and they offer some installment plans on their tools. Not so bad if this is your trade.
The shop only really provides a lift, air power, and in rare cases a PC with a library of manuals. In some cases a machine shop on site. I'm sort of vague on the site/mechanic relationship, I would wager many mechanics essentially rent shop space, where others actually are employed by a company.
I'm willing to be corrected on shops, rather than parts suppliers. It may be possible that shops ask for the core even if they are replacing a new part. They might have a deal with parts builders, they might be getting extra income that way. To me, I think that's dandy. Reduce, reuse, recycle. But just so long as it's clear they are recycling your old parts rather than sending the old one back to the manufacturer.
I consider my self mechanically adept, but given my experience with my first car I found it easier to just buy pre-loaded calipers. I'm comfortable replacing a clutch, pulling an engine, but pads are where I draw the line. My guess is that if a mechanic is skilled, trained, and has a lot of equipment, doing a brake job on most cars would be pretty easy -- comparable to replacing a hard drive for a computer geek (pull apart case, plug in, boot up, format disk, reinstall os/mirror old disk onto new disk). I would rank the mechanic profession as requiring much more in the way of investment. As you might expect, a mechanic provides their own tools, and not the cheap ones you or I buy, brands like Snap-On. Buying the manuals isn't cheep either, there are often libraries on CD-ROM/DVD to handle most every symptom. On top of that emission requirements.
I'm sure I pay a disposal fee, just i've never seen it itemized, where others I imagine pay a fine for not disposing at the place of purchase.
OK, I listed more steps than you, but only because you missed things out like replacing brake fluid and bleeding the system, which is a two man, time consuming process. In reality you do far more work than I do. That's true, I missed that step, however your list of steps is dependent on the type of caliper. Some cars you can swap pads without removing the caliper. Others the you can dismount the caliper from the bracket which holds the pads via two bolts. My prior car it was, near as I'm aware and according to my Hayes manual, not possible to pull the pads while one bolt was mounted on the car, and I failed at getting pads back on and had to resort to phoning the friendly neighborhood tree mechanic who would complain how tedious my calipers were. My current car, I didn't bother to look, I needed brakes, 4 bolts, one hose, machine shop, bleed, done. Gross motor skills only, no fine detail required.
My current car, what you propose might be possible, in fact I thought unbolting the caliper bracket. But spending an extra $25x2 to save my self a tedious dirty task is most excellent.
I accept criticism that I spend too much on brakes. I could save my self 50% by buying pads only. But of the things on my car I'm willing to invest extra money in, it's brakes. But I don't accept criticism regarding bleeding the brakes every time they are replaced, in fact I probably should flush the lines every 30k miles. Moisture in the lines reduces the boiling point of the fluid and can result in a serious condition.
I expect to spend $100-$150 for
1. A pair of pre-loaded rebuilt calipers
2. Rotor turning
3. misc cleaners, fluids, etc... etc...
This is something in my last car, and I would do this between 75k and 100k. I could do the job for 1/2 the price if I didn't go for pre-loaded calipers and rotor turning, but given I'm not very likely to keep a car much beyond 300,000 miles, we are talking and extra $300 for the lifetime of a vehicle.
Strongly religious people are not automatically delusional. The worst you can call it is a false belief or a conclusion based on incorrect information. Don't get me wrong, I don't enjoy zealots, those who can't grasp you're not buying their version of peace and eternal bliss internally censure them selves when it's bloody obvious someone isn't interested. But I lump theistic and atheistic zealots in the same basket. OS zealots get their own basket, automobile zealots get their own, etc etc.
A wise person told me once, there is more to life than not believing in something.
Missing from your estimate is rotor turning, which may or may not be needed, bleeding and at least 5min on the road.
I take longer because I tend to clean very throughly.