Yet another method to add to the masses bringing it's own incompatiblities and problems.
Keeping one step ahead of the DRM crackers makes commercial sense for Sony as a business but not to the consumers who have to put up with more layers to potentially go wrong.
Plus it's a Windows only format so where does that leave the growing alternative OS users?
One step forward and one step back as per normal.
Or take wifes/girlfriends/sisters nail varnish remover and cotton wool pads and rub key caps off. Works and costs a couple of quid.
I have a Billy Gates keyboard which is black and the left CTRL and shift key are faded to almost black anyway due to MS FS2004.
A typical CD-R has a recordable layer sandwiched between a polycarbonate disk and an acrylic disk on which is the label.
If you take an old CD-R and scrape the label off you will see that what you are left with is the poly disk which in context is quite thick.
I use buffing compound to restore disks for clients with amazing success although I would recommend scratching and repairing an old CD first.
The same method for regular music CDs which is great if you have piles of them our of their cases (like me)
Slashdot Mirror
fast, active relief from the ./ effect
Yet another method to add to the masses bringing it's own incompatiblities and problems. Keeping one step ahead of the DRM crackers makes commercial sense for Sony as a business but not to the consumers who have to put up with more layers to potentially go wrong. Plus it's a Windows only format so where does that leave the growing alternative OS users? One step forward and one step back as per normal.
Or take wifes/girlfriends/sisters nail varnish remover and cotton wool pads and rub key caps off. Works and costs a couple of quid. I have a Billy Gates keyboard which is black and the left CTRL and shift key are faded to almost black anyway due to MS FS2004.
A typical CD-R has a recordable layer sandwiched between a polycarbonate disk and an acrylic disk on which is the label. If you take an old CD-R and scrape the label off you will see that what you are left with is the poly disk which in context is quite thick. I use buffing compound to restore disks for clients with amazing success although I would recommend scratching and repairing an old CD first. The same method for regular music CDs which is great if you have piles of them our of their cases (like me)
If only so much money and effort could be directed at improving peoples lives in the third world. What a skewed perspective we have.