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Who calls themselves a high performance employee?

Anyone who works here or here?

Oh and a little thing called a flexfuel sensor. The link below is to an OEM part, I'm about to install a fuel system on my car that uses one of them. I'm not sure I'd call it a hack since the software to function on a WIDE range of alcohol levels is pretty decently different and must accept input from that sensor. Seems that "e85" often isn't and in Winter has more gasoline in it to promote cold start. You may also find out your piddly little gasoline injectors can't handle the flow for ethanol use and that many injectors fail when exposed to e85 unless specifically designed for it and most OEM injectors are NOT although they finally seem to have the fuel lines and tanks done right. Sorry but on this one you're talking out of your ass if you think it's just a software flip.

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...

P.S. Any vehicle that can run on both alcohol AND gasoline isn't running on alcohol "efficiently". Generally you want a ton more compression or a good bit more boost if it happens to be turbocharged. Alcohol makes a great race fuel but it's got much less bang per mole.

You sir are getting raped very hard and long by anyone that is selling you an IC Engine for $15k to $45k.

Here are some examples of crate motors that you can get from $1500 to $5000. Engines can re built as well saving the costs of buying a new one.

Their cars did too. I had a Bronco II and two Mustangs with bad headlight switches.

Also the design on the G2 alternator is a joke, this is in most of their cars from the mid 80's to the early 90's. It had a large pigtail with two 1/4 inch spade connectors for the output on the alternator. Those two wires were electrically the same, a single 1/4 spade connector is not big enough to handle the current so Ford decided to use two of them in parallel and connect the two outputs through a splice into a single wire that ran to the battery. Guess what happens when one of the two develops some resistance? I had one catch on fire. Luckily it melted the wire at the splice and broke the connection in an area where there was noting combustible and it put itself out. I was driving the car at the time.

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...

The first car I drove was my mother's Geo Metro Lsi (1 liter 3 banger, 5 speed manual, was the convertible, and had AC) and that stupid thing would get well over 50mpg (I think it was close to 56mpg) and was new enough that it would mostly meet current safety and emissions standards. Now these are actual numbers not the magic numbers printer on the window from the EPA which are useful for comparison between vehicles but worthless otherwise. Now granted this wasn't a 3,000+ pound car but was substantially larger (much larger cross sectional area) and heavier (probably 4x) than your motorcycle. I think it would be quite possible to achieve better numbers than even that Metro I drove got and still meet modern safety and emissions requirements given that you could run a higher compression ratio (that get took 87 octane gas), use diesel instead, have variable valves, better 3 way cats better aerodynamics (this was a convertible after all), use synthetic lubricants, go over to an electric water pump (racers to this), use a 6 speed manual, use better tires, use aluminum body panels, have a dry sump configuration for oil, etc. Here we haven't even gotten to more exotic solutions like reducing the reciprocating mass of the engine, using exotic composites for body panels, using different combustion cycles, using exotic surface treatments for internal moving parts to decrease internal friction and wear, try a different passenger layouts. There are other options but to believe that automotive design has done all it can in regards to engine efficiency, internal friction, reciprocating mass, drag, rolling resistance, and vehicle weight is just fooling your self. The problem is that to go much beyond what we have now requires lots of money on a one off level or still a substantial amount on the industrial level. Would you be willing to pay $25k-$30k for some cheap econo box instead of $12k now. We could realistically have a 4 passenger car capable of around 100 mpg if we wanted to pay for it.

The first car I drove was my mother's Geo Metro Lsi (1 liter 3 banger, 5 speed manual, was the convertible, and had AC) and that stupid thing would get well over 50mpg (I think it was close to 56mpg) and was new enough that it would mostly meet current safety and emissions standards. Now these are actual numbers not the magic numbers printer on the window from the EPA which are useful for comparison between vehicles but worthless otherwise. Now granted this wasn't a 3,000+ pound car but was substantially larger (much larger cross sectional area) and heavier (probably 4x) than your motorcycle. I think it would be quite possible to achieve better numbers than even that Metro I drove got and still meet modern safety and emissions requirements given that you could run a higher compression ratio (that get took 87 octane gas), use diesel instead, have variable valves, better 3 way cats better aerodynamics (this was a convertible after all), use synthetic lubricants, go over to an electric water pump (racers to this), use a 6 speed manual, use better tires, use aluminum body panels, have a dry sump configuration for oil, etc. Here we haven't even gotten to more exotic solutions like reducing the reciprocating mass of the engine, using exotic composites for body panels, using different combustion cycles, using exotic surface treatments for internal moving parts to decrease internal friction and wear, try a different passenger layouts. There are other options but to believe that automotive design has done all it can in regards to engine efficiency, internal friction, reciprocating mass, drag, rolling resistance, and vehicle weight is just fooling your self. The problem is that to go much beyond what we have now requires lots of money on a one off level or still a substantial amount on the industrial level. Would you be willing to pay $25k-$30k for some cheap econo box instead of $12k now. We could realistically have a 4 passenger car capable of around 100 mpg if we wanted to pay for it.

Personally would love to have a factory option of 5 point harnesses. The government already mandates them for child safety seats. They aren't terribly expensive if you order new ones but since most racing organizations require that they be re-certified every 2-5 years (it is frequently cheaper just to buy a new harness than get the old one re-certified), so used but still perfectly functional ones could be gotten really cheap. I got 2 used 5 point harnesses from my father that I am planning installing in my project car to replace the nasty rotten old seat belts it came with.

No they won't crush it because it is tricked out too much or it's faster than theirs, but because it violates laws or you were being an idiot. Like street racing, have those stupid ground effect lights, having tires that stick out of the wheel wells, installing a gigantic fart pipe, peeling out, turning it into a pollution factory, or driving like a retard.

    There are better seat belts, that do a better job of restraining you. Most people wouldn't want them in their passenger car though.

    I only installed them in one of my cars. On the weekends, I did some amateur class racing in my street car. The shoulder belt was worthless on the left turns. It was much nicer with the belts installed, I didn't have to brace myself while taking the turns. I also couldn't reach the radio or air conditioning controls while belted in.

    Seat belts do save lives. You have a better chance of survival firmly strapped to your seat, than you do being ejected from the vehicle, and potentially your own vehicle landing on top of you.

    Passenger car seat (lap and shoulder) belts do a pretty good job of restraining you, while allowing comfort. The twisting that can occur during a wreck, due to only having one shoulder restrained, is a lot less than what could happen without it. I'll have back and neck pain forever from a wreck I was in over 10 years ago, but I did survive relatively unhurt.

    I've had to give practical demonstrations to kids on why they have to wear their seatbelts. They'll argue, so I'll do a brake check at about 30mph (after checking for cars around me). Although they insist they can catch themselves, they always end up on the floor asking what happened. They usually don't try to argue with me about it after that.

    We already have that. :)

    You can build an entire car at your house. It's perfectly legal too. You don't even have to use a single OEM part.

    The aftermarket industry is full of places that not only make compatible parts, but make them better.

    Here's a rough idea of a monster that'll probably get you killed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLE-12542M/
770HP Engine: $20,000

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-7051626ED/
6 speed transmission: $3,700

http://www.sandrocket.com/img/pix_main/photo_gallery/pg_revisoins.4.29.06/red-green-silver1.jpg
Rolling Chassis: $10k-$30k

A bit of creative skin and windshield $2,000

Oh, and in most states, lights, horn, and turn signals, if they weren't included with the chassis. :)

There are a few pieces I left out, and I didn't ensure anything would actually mate up.

    For $35,000 you could have fast, light, safe (if you keep it under 200mph) 4mpg rocket.

    I say safe, because if you've ever seen any of the numerous NASCAR crashes, quite a few drivers walk away unharmed from crashes at over 150mph, where the car is thrown, flipped, run into, and otherwise did acrobatics that would leave any passenger car looking like a convenient metal coffin for the occupants.

    Since most of us don't *need* 770hp, you can build a car for less than a new car costs.

    You couldn't print one though. See my comments in the previous message about strength. You can't print forged parts. At least not right now. You can print something that looks like them though. You may be able to print a mold, but by the time you consider the rest of what it takes to make those parts, you're better off buying from someone who mass produces them.

    We already have that. :)

    You can build an entire car at your house. It's perfectly legal too. You don't even have to use a single OEM part.

    The aftermarket industry is full of places that not only make compatible parts, but make them better.

    Here's a rough idea of a monster that'll probably get you killed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLE-12542M/
770HP Engine: $20,000

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-7051626ED/
6 speed transmission: $3,700

http://www.sandrocket.com/img/pix_main/photo_gallery/pg_revisoins.4.29.06/red-green-silver1.jpg
Rolling Chassis: $10k-$30k

A bit of creative skin and windshield $2,000

Oh, and in most states, lights, horn, and turn signals, if they weren't included with the chassis. :)

There are a few pieces I left out, and I didn't ensure anything would actually mate up.

    For $35,000 you could have fast, light, safe (if you keep it under 200mph) 4mpg rocket.

    I say safe, because if you've ever seen any of the numerous NASCAR crashes, quite a few drivers walk away unharmed from crashes at over 150mph, where the car is thrown, flipped, run into, and otherwise did acrobatics that would leave any passenger car looking like a convenient metal coffin for the occupants.

    Since most of us don't *need* 770hp, you can build a car for less than a new car costs.

    You couldn't print one though. See my comments in the previous message about strength. You can't print forged parts. At least not right now. You can print something that looks like them though. You may be able to print a mold, but by the time you consider the rest of what it takes to make those parts, you're better off buying from someone who mass produces them.

Yup, my first car ('68 Nova) had a 250 ci straight six (~150 HP) and now my latest truck ('07 Trailblazer) has a 250 ci/4200 cc straight six (291 HP). Is funny; is same bore and stroke dimensions but new engine is aluminum block, dual cam, fuel injection with headers. They've totally hot rodded it and man, does it show. This mini-beast now makes more than 1 hp/ci. Sweet!

Now, my '70 Impala Sport Coup out back, that has a big ole' 454 that's been bored (460 ci) and worked over until it keeps eating transmissions. >1 HP/ci in a big block is scary. Can't wait until I can afford to get EFI on it!

    Well just remember that usually the force is forward or sideways. It's the "just in case" factor that they have the 5th belt going to the floor. Usually, the belt will keep you from being thrown from the seat. Well, that and they hold you in place while you're driving.

    I did some oval track racing in my street car. I found out pretty quickly that in hard left turns with a standard 3 point belt, you find yourself sliding out of the shoulder portion. I had to brace myself with my elbow on the center console. I bought a 5 point harness that week, which kept me happily restrained in the seat.

    But, for the sake of your nuts, this is what you'd want :)

    I still think it's kinda silly seeing a lot of the modified street cars with harnesses. They never see serious driving. Then again, if (big if) they get into a situation where they are driving hard enough, or roll, they'll be properly restrained. It should be easier for the EMT to get you out too, since they don't have to dig around for the shoulder belt release. They're all quick releases in the center of your lap. Well, unless they can't find your lap, but you have more serious issues at that point. A good seat belt, without a good cage doesn't do you a lot of good. Most cars squish pretty easily.

    Yup, no one would make a replacement seat belt that would be better than the OEM belt.

Ahh, how those late adopters miss out on new technology.

[ http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR-63539&N=700+115&autoview=sku ]

Belt unneeded.

Although, I wouldn't call something I've been using on my LT1
for a good dozen years, 'new'.

You'll need a wideband O2 and a good A/F meter or DSO. If you got a couple buddies who are really into car modifying, getting a wideband won't be too bad (they're about $400US, so splitting the cost among like 3-4 people is sometimes what people do, since you only use it to tune).

I'm such a nice guy. I assume you have a Toyota Pickup or 4Runner? Check this out: Engine Reprogrammer

I agree.

I got to drive one of the nice newer Mercedes coupes,with a big V8 in it. They were bragging up the horsepower, so I was wanted proof. "Let me drive." I ran it hard. The owner, in the passenger seat, was impressed with the power I was pulling from it. Then asked the owner how much the car cost. Something around $100k. I handed him the keys to my car (2000 TransAm WS/6) and said "now drive this."

I paid about $25k for my car. New it was something like $30k. My car has better handling, better acceleration, better braking, and is faster. This was before I did any mods to it. The interior trim may not be as nice, but my car does have all the options including leather seats, and it turns more heads when I drive past, than a Mercedes does. It's comfortable enough for two people to ride in it all day (done that many times), and the back seats are just about as big.

Apple's are very pretty. I've used a few. I was happy that my girlfriend was on one using OS/X, but when that machine started acting flaky, we didn't buy a new Apple, we spent $1500 on really good parts. AMD 2800+, 1Gb RAM, 200Gb hdd, DVD reader, DVD writer, asus motherboard, high end video card, etc, etc.. What Apple does $1500 buy you? When we want faster, all we have to do is buy some faster components. When the G6, G7, or whatever comes out, well, you're buying a new Apple.

You can buy a new Mercedes at the really fancy store, or you can (could) buy a TransAm at any dealership. If I want more power, I grab Jegs or Summit, and start shopping.

You can buy an Apple at the fancy Apple store, or buy parts from a wholesaler whos "Will Call" area is the back door of the warehouse.

I still say "Pretty" every time I look at a Apple. I give them that. Then I hop back on my x86 based Linux machine and drive faster. :)

Four point seat belts wouldn't castrate you; you're thinking of five point belts.

If you want a cheep sealed battery with automotive capacity just run down to Schucks, Checker, Kragen, Autozone, pep boys, wherever and pick up an Optima Yellow top (deep cycle). Then you don't have to worry about hydrogen build-up in your computer room.
These batterys are sealed wet cells that will last for years.. expect to drop about $150-200 US

Optima's and other type of sealed automotive batterys can be ordered from either Summit Racing or Jegs

A successful internet venture will use this to their advantage - make your site a resource for people who also happen to be potential customers. That way, they track you down, not the other way around.

An example of a web site that does this well is Summit Racing. People can go there for information, and by the way find out all sorts of neat stuff they want to buy. If you try and search for information on racing equipment, you'll likely be led to that site. Lo and behold, you can order the stuff you discover you need right there...

Any information you try and force on people will just be filtered. Either by software, or by the person's brain. They'll skip to the information they actually want.

To put it another way, the best way to advertise is to provide useful content.