The Evolving Face of Credit Card Scams
An anonymous reader writes "The 12 Angry Men have a followup to their piece on the cross-sell scam credit card companies have begun using. Their new article concerns another evolving scam being employed, where users are racking up huge fees and charges on cards that have never even been activated. The article goes deep into the standard way the scam plays out, as well as detailing some interesting history on how credit applications are processed, and where they are typically (and frighteningly) subject to tampering."
you have to give them credit for originality.
Just don't use credit cards. Really. Using credit gets you into debt anyway. True, there are other ways to get scammed, but if you don't have a credit card, they can't rack up the charges. If you were to use a debit card instead, then you stand to loose something, but once it runs out, it's gone and they can't keep charging more. Credit is necessary in some circumstances, but for day-to-day purchases, you might be better off without one.
i don't know about most e-commerce operations, but where I work, we make a point to not tie ourselves in with the kinds of companies that would do these sorts of cross-sell scams. TFA says some people think of this as free money, but it's not at all. when you hand control of what your users see to a third party, that's not free.
my credit card story - I had a credit card with a small limit (sub $500 AUD) perfect for small purchases on line, I was happy with this, any debt was paid off the next payday at the latest.
Then the credit card company merged with a major US bank. A couple of years later when my old card expired later they sent me a new card with a letter saying that my credit limit increase to $24, 000 was pre approved. I rang their (Indian based) call center to tell them I wanted to complain saying I didn't want this limit and when the call center staff told me that I couldn't go back to my old $500 limit I told them I refused to let them activate the new card and wanted my account cancelled. Six months later I'm STILL trying to get them to cancel my account, the new card has never been activated, I've never confirmed my new credit limit and they keep charging me fees (including some penalty fees) on a card that has no debt run up on it, That has never been used, that I no longer want and that I've asked them to cancel. Next step is that I will lodge a formal complaint with the Banking and Financial Services Ombudsman that arbitrates Credit Card disputes in Australia
Like the article mentioned, virtual account numbers are great for online purchases. It's one of the first features I look for. Citibank and Bank of America's virtual card services are both pretty nice, allowing you to set a spending limit for each number, as well as expiration dates. I believe Citibank also locks the number to the first merchant who charges to the virtual account.
Legally, I believe the account is open when the paperwork is signed. It has to be closed using appropriate measures.
"Activation" procedures are just added by the issuers to reduce fraud and other losses. "CC protection" may be expensive, but it's not fraud. Activation only applies to the card sent, not to the account.
Nothingto see here, move along.
- Get on the OPTOUT list to stop preapproved offers.
- Don't accept a card with a yearly fee, unless there are travel or purchase rewards that you're sure you will use.
- If you have good credit, ignore all offers above 10-12% (excepting rewards cards). I have a 7.9% national city card.
- Don't open new credit card accounts if you're about to buy a house or car.
- Reject offers at the register. There's no possible way you can read the fine print at the checkout.
- Only consider accepting an offer at the register if the discount is at least $50. 10% of $500+. Deactivate the card after a few weeks or so.
- Don't ignore a bill sent to you on a deactivated card. It won't go away on its own.
- Don't signup for insurance through your credit card company. Buy insurance directly from an insurance company.
- Don't transfer debt onto a new card unless its free. No percent fee and no minimum fixed fee.
- A free transfer to a low or zero interest card is not a bad thing, so long as the introductory rate is long enough to be worth it, such as 9-12 months, and the non-introductory rate is fair.
- Don't use convenience checks tied to the credit card. After the temporary rate expires, they nearly always apply as a cash advance (which is much higher rate).
- When not traveling, don't use ATMs outside the bank's network.
- Use a debit card for cash advances and groceries. Use a credit card for travel, online purchases, shipping, and other purchases.
- Occasionally check your online statement history for unexplained purchases. I do this at least 3-4+ times a month, usually at work as an excuse to goof off for a moment.
- Setup a minimum fee payment schedule on all your credit cards within each respective card company even if you rarely carry balances. Don't use a 3rd party bill-pay for credit cards. If the bill-pay is down, you'll be held responsible if you're late. You have a stronger case for dropping late fees if it's your own credit card company's fault.
I pretty much stay out of trouble following those rules.Camping on quad since 1996.
Dude, I *am* a 'quiet millionaire' (or at least I was until last year when I stopped being as quiet about it), was *raised by* 'quiet millionaires' (who became such after having lost almost everything when I was still an infant) and I can tell you -- if you refuse to take an easy, reliable >4% return on an amount as large as those involved with a mortgage you will not become of one us (hint even if your tax rate is currently so low that the tax advantages accompanying the mortgage interest do not boost your marginal return above the 4% difference you cited, your tax rate will go up in time to add that bonus).
The fundamental risk in owning a house lies in the ownership itself, not whether you have a mortgage. If you live in a state where you can be forced to join a "homeowner's" association even after buying your house, then your house is at risk. If you aren't providing your own water and sewage service, then your house is at risk. Hell, if anybody else ever sets foot on your property (with or without your permission), then your house is at risk. Having a fixed-rate mortgage on your house does not risk your house in ways different from those. The currently-fashionable term for that 4% you're stupidly passing up is 'carry trade', btw. Yes, a few years ago the mortgage officer reacted like I was a three-headed alien when I insisted on a 30-year, fixed-rate, no-prepayment-penalty mortgage but that's the difference between 'safe risks' and 'Alan Greenspan risks'.
If you think buying your car outright means that you can budget the $300/mo that would have been a car payment for repairs instead of considering that money as not-yet-spent funds to purchase the car that will replace the one you're currently driving -- you will not become one of us. Financially, the difference between buying your car for 'cash' vs. on credit is that you save the interest costs and (if you did it right) had benefited from the returns made on the not-yet-spent funds but you still need to include that 'car payment' in your budget *every* month rather than just the months after your current car dies.
That said, you'd have to have rocks in your head to believe you will be able to average 10% investment returns over (roughly) the next two years.
In the form of higher prices due to interchange fees, higher prices I'd pay even if I used cash. Using a credit card is a no-brainer. Take the 30-day interest free loan and a refund of 1-5% of the interchange fee. Of course, actually carrying a balance is equally a no-brainer; don't do it.
Different scam, but here's one that just happened last 24h. (AU)
Last night, wife ordered some kids' name stickers from a company that the kindy had a flyer for on the bulliten board - paid $30 for it over the internet by credit card.
She then went browsing for antique books and visited a number of such sites locally and internationally, no payment forms started on any.
Wife is lovely by all measures, bar tech-savvy.
Phone call next morning from our bank - ANZ - "we believe you have been scammed".
Yep, sometime in the small hours two transactions ran up on her card. $1100 and $700 from western EU country locations.
ANZ detected it, called us, cancelled the card and the bad transactions, and issued new cards. Hence the plug.
Still thinking about how the card details got swiped. Maybe the site had an unencrypted form for cc details? Maybe through the IE browser session not being closed between paying on a weak site and then visiting a trick site? Maybe the sticker co's banking plug-in is working some cheat? Maybe the w2k pc is compromised with a keystroke swiper?
Have quarantined the pc, yet to work it over.
The only way CC companies make money off of me is via store processing fees. As the places I shop at don't give cash discounts, that doesn't cost me except in a theoretical way. Before going ape about 'processing fees', remember, there are business expenses related to the handling of cash as well. Handing that $20 to pay for something might actually have more overhead in handing that bill and your change than the processing fees charged by the CC company. Remember, you have to reconcile the till, count and lock up cash, transfer it to the bank, etc...
I haven't paid a cent of interest or fees to the CC companies in a decade. I'll admit I was a bit stupid as a teen - though I didn't dig myself in deep, fortunately. Paid a little interest on my first brand new personal computer though.
On the other hand, the CC company shouldn't be too pissed with me, I'm a quiet customer who pays his bills on time and in full. Sure, they don't get interest from me, but they also don't have to worry much about me not paying my debt and forcing them to write me off as bad debt.
I don't read AC A human right
First, I suggest not posting AC, you deserve to be heard. I hope to hear from you again.
if you refuse to take an easy, reliable >4% return on an amount as large as those involved with a mortgage you will not become of one us (hint even if your tax rate is currently so low that the tax advantages accompanying the mortgage interest do not boost your marginal return above the 4% difference you cited, your tax rate will go up in time to add that bonus).
Your acceptance of risk is higher than mine. I'm a bit scarred in that I first started investing just before 9/11. Lost half my initial investment. On paper, I didn't pull it out, and it eventually recovered. Now, I will admit that I'm paying the minimum on my mortgage and investing instead. Then again, I got a sweetheart interest rate, much better than the 6% I could otherwise get. Still, I'm building equity in the house - which I want. Worst case I can still make it - it's just going to take a bit longer.
Having a fixed-rate mortgage on your house does not risk your house in ways different from those.
I have insurance for the other events. Home Owner's association? I could practically set up a firing range in my yard and the neighbors are more likely to come over and shoot with me than call the cops. As for fixed rate mortgage what I was really talking about was manipulating loans such that you have zero equity most of the time - think 'interest only loan'.
This way I still own my house if the stock markets crash and I lose my job.
If you think buying your car outright means that you can budget the $300/mo that would have been a car payment for repairs instead of considering that money as not-yet-spent funds to purchase the car that will replace the one you're currently driving -- you will not become one of us.
I think you misread me - the $300 payment that represented my car payment when I was still paying it off. What I'm doing now is placing that money into investments each month earmarked 'car'. It's a little more bookkeeping to keep track of the number of shares for that purpose, but whatever. It's a somewhat nebulous fund that's meant to pay for major vehicle expenses - not including gas or routine maintenance, but including buying a new car. Basically, I know that some major maintenance will probably be required between now and 10 years. That $300/month will more than cover that. If the maintenance is too bad, or the car no longer meets my needs, then the fund goes towards a new car; ideally buying it 100% cash. The 10 year point is merely a goal, not a end point. If I still like the car, I could drive it for 12. It's just that I figure after 5 I'll have plenty of money, even assuming some repairs, to buy a new car. The way I look at it - if I end up spending $900 in year 8 to get to year 10 I'm still ahead of the game.
Financially, the difference between buying your car for 'cash' vs. on credit is that you save the interest costs and (if you did it right) had benefited from the returns made on the not-yet-spent funds but you still need to include that 'car payment' in your budget *every* month rather than just the months after your current car dies.
That's what I meant. $300 monthly payment ceased going into GM's pocket and into my portfolio, earmarked 'car'. I just don't feel the need to mark it exclusively for 'new car', instead choosing to allow it to also be used for sane repairs on my existing vehicle - after all, I'm still ahead as long as it's costing less than $300/month to keep running in a suitable condition. Heck, if it reached $100/month to keep going, I'd be car shopping.
I'm firmly on my way to a somewhat early retirement - I'll have the $1million, after starting with essentially 0 as a teen. I could do it faster, but I do like some luxuries, like my $1200 gaming machine(built myself to save money). Of course, my last gaming computer was four years old when I replaced it, so it ends up being a lot cheaper than drinking at a bar.
I don't read AC A human right
Bank of America gave this guy a big credit limit at a "fixed" rate of 6.9%.
I used to be a BoA customer for about 4 years just as a casual card holder. Last year I had some unexpected expenses that basically maxed the card at at about 2 months of my income which over all isn't critical to me. Then about a month later I get a letter saying my interest rate is going from 7% to 20%.
I called them up and asked why in the world was my interest rate being increased since I have never had a late payment in my life and the actual interest rate had been cut by the feds. They said it was my credit score and at time I freaked and thought I had just been a victim of identity theft and had equifax do a credit check and I had a clean and awesome score. I called them back a second time and demanded why my rate was increased especially since my credit score was damn fine!
They said they couldn't do anything even with me threatening to cancel my account for a lower rate and all I could do was send a letter that said I disagreed with the rate change which basically froze the account. Since I was never using them again I did... And they didn't raise the rate.
Then a month or two later then send another notification of a rate increase.
Enough was enough, so I used my savings (which I loathe to not have cash around) to pay the whole thing off out of spite.
Bank of America is run by bastards who think they can rip off everyone.
"I am the king of the Romans, and am superior to rules of grammar!"
-Sigismund, Holy Roman Emperor (1368-1437)
Our government just gives out everybody's personal details.
All I want is a secure system where it's easy to do anything I want. Is that too much to ask ~~ Randall Munroe