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Why Climbers Die On Mount Everest

Science Daily reports that researchers have conducted the first detailed analysis of deaths during expeditions to the summit of Mt. Everest. They found that most deaths occur during descents from the summit in the so-called "death zone" above 8,000 meters, and also identified factors that appear to be associated with a greater risk of death, particularly symptoms of high-altitude cerebral edema. The big surprise that the data indicate those deaths aren't primarily from avalanches or falling ice, as had long been believed.

103 of 417 comments (clear)

  1. Diving? by markass530 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Is this related to the same health problems associated with diving (I.E The bends?)

    1. Re:Diving? by The+MAZZTer · · Score: 5, Informative

      Nope... bends is caused by nitrogen bubbles forming in your bloodstream, due to diving or rising too quickly.

    2. Re:Diving? by snl2587 · · Score: 5, Informative

      Not exactly. The bends come from fast decompression leading to gas bubbles within the body while the cerebral edema is an excess accumulation of water in the brain which comes from a leakage of fluid from capillaries (among other causes).

    3. Re:Diving? by quenda · · Score: 2, Insightful
      Actually, it's more like sky-diving than scuba-diving.

      Its a little-know fact that most sky-diving fatalities occur within metres of the finish.

  2. surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

    1. Re:surprise? by kobaz · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

      Or Vertical Limit.

      Vertical limit had as much fact about mountaineering as the movie "Hackers" had about computers.

      --

      The goal of computer science is to build something that will last at least until we've finished building it.
    2. Re:surprise? by genner · · Score: 5, Funny

      "Hackers" was about computers?!

      No that's just a myth started by the same people who thought Smallville was about Superman.

    3. Re:surprise? by Hurricane78 · · Score: 2, Funny

      Or Galactica about science fiction.

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    4. Re:surprise? by Fluffeh · · Score: 5, Funny

      H3y! I s4w Hackers and it was T3H Sh1T! Its r34lly cool! Just cause old people liek you dun get it!!!!!1!! dont dis what you dont g-3-t!!!!

      Goodness, I feel dirty just writing that :)

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      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    5. Re:surprise? by niktemadur · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Holy cow, I previewed my post and it came out huge, but I can't take anything out, it's my Cliff Notes version of "Into Thin Air", quite relevant to the topic at hand.

      Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

      Although I've never seen the movie, I highly recommend the book by John Krakauer.

      A pretty good climber and professional journalist, Krakauer was commissioned by National Geographic to write an article about attempting the summit of Everest, embedded into a group composed of a few world-class climbers, the Sherpa support team and a bunch of wealthy tourists, including a socialite or two.

      Krakauer relates some lethally incompetent things that went on up there, try this one on for size - there were three or four teams camping in the North Col, final camp for the summit assault and already above the "death zone". A member of the Taiwanese team came out of his tent wearing nothing but socks, to take a dump on the icy edge of the very high and steep Lhotse Face. Images of shit cascading down a Himalayan ice face aside, it's not only bad form (there can always be climbers making their way up) but also dangerous as hell. Well the dumb bastard slipped and tumbled over a thousand meters to his death, buck-naked except for his socks, on the frozen roof of the world. You can't make stuff like this up, seriously.

      Just a couple of hundred meters from the summit via the Lhotse route, there's a small but nasty vertical wall called The Hillary Step, which can only be climbed one person at a time. On the way up, Krakauer saw to his dismay that there was a bottleneck here, taking a few hours for everybody to make it past this final obstacle, time already against them. Once on the summit, the teams lingered in a daze even as the monsoon clouds were looming large.

      On the way back, the bottleneck was reversed, now there was a line to climb down the Hillary Step. By the time everybody had passed, it was already too late - the sun was setting, the canned oxygen supply was running out, the storm was already there and temperatures were plummeting, textbook description of a worst-case scenario.

      Every breath and step a battle that took every ounce of effort and concentration, Krakauer staggered down in zero-visibility conditions, passing some dying or dead comrades along the way, finally reaching the North Col at around midnight.

      Here's the thing - even with optimal visibility and mellow temperatures, severe fatigue (that inner reserve of energy was depleted in the final push for the summit) and lack of oxygen will impair the ability to think, reason, move and react in a place where any misstep can be fatal. Many climbers have passed dead colleagues on the way down and that information does not compute in their brains at the moment, personal survival overrides any other concern, only later do horror and regret coalesce and sink their hooks.

      Anyway, Krakauer collapsed in his tent and managed to sleep even while fighting for breath in the "death zone", finally awaking to tragedy unfolding around him, I believe it was eighteen people who died on the mountain that time.

      Well that's more or less how I remember "Into Thin Air". Give it a shot, it managed to be gripping even as I already knew the story.

      Finally, a great climbing movie and true story, done as a documentary with dramatizations, is "Touching The Void", in which two British guys climb a South American peak. On the way down (surprise surprise), one of them falls to certain death, off a cliff and into a crevasse - only he survives. Alone and with a shattered leg, he must drag his way back down the mountain before his distraught teammate abandons base camp, or be truly left for dead.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
    6. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 5, Insightful

      I climb. The highest peak I've climbed is 18,700 ft (Pico de Orizaba) and it was only -32 f at the summit (I've had 2 ascents) at the coldest.

      High altitude Pulmonary or Cerebral edema has been a major killer of excellent climbers - and you can climb to the same altitude a dozen times and show no signs - and die on the 13th.

      Nanda Devi Unsoeld - Willie's only daughter and Crag's sister died on the mountain she was named for in 1976. I'd met her in the Tetons in the early 1970s. She had climbed many peaks higher than her namesake - but passed away from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema while stuck at altitude due to a storm.

      Everest is 29,205 ft - Denali is the highest peak in the western hemisphere at 20,320 ft - but more people die from football injuries every year than climbing.

      As for Krakauer - he revels in writing about death - I despise his writing. He made his name writing about the death of Christopher McCandless - a man who thought he could overwinter Alaska in a converted school-bus. That's a tragedy - not "news." and the book, Into the Wild is as corrupt a bit of "if it bleeds, it leads" journalism as exists.

      I find Krakauer cheesy and a glorifier of death - a sick puppy where I come from.

    7. Re:surprise? by Brad1138 · · Score: 3, Interesting

      H3y! I s4w Hackers and it was T3H Sh1T! Its r34lly cool! Just cause old people liek you dun get it!!!!!1!! dont dis what you dont g-3-t!!!!

      Does Journey ever get credit for inventing Leetspeak?

      --
      If you could reason with religious people, there would be no religious people
    8. Re:surprise? by ComaVN · · Score: 3, Informative

      Denali is the highest peak in the western hemisphere at 20,320 ft

      Aconcagua (Argentina) is higher, and so are quite a lot of other Andes peaks.

      --
      Be wary of any facts that confirm your opinion.
    9. Re:surprise? by doti · · Score: 2, Insightful

      more people die from football injuries every year than climbing

      Yeah, and more people die from crossing a street than from being electrocuted.

      That's a common mistake while manipulating numbers for statistics. There are A LOT more people playing football than climbing. The number is only relevant as a percentage.

      --
      factor 966971: 966971
    10. Re:surprise? by Leafheart · · Score: 2, Funny

      "Hackers" was about computers?!

      I thought it was about Angelina Jolie's boobs and the evil of skateboarding and how roller skaters were much more in.

      --
      --- "When you gotta do something wrong. You gotta do it right. (Fighter)"
    11. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      Every year the American Alpine Club publishes "accidents in mounteering" and the figures show that both total numbers and per capita deaths are higher for football - from children all the way up to adult football players.

      Indeed, climbing doesn't make it into the top 15 - see, http://www.livescience.com/health/060614_sport_injuries.html

    12. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      Elmes M, Barry D. Deliverance, Denial and the death zone: a study of narcissism and regression in the May 1996 Everest climbing disaster. J of Applied Behavioural Science. 1999;35:163â"87.
      Mountain survivor was first to fall. The Press (newspaper), Christchurch, New Zealand. April 15, 2004.
      The Climber. Saxon Print, Christchurch, New Zealand. Issue 47/Autumn; 2002: p13.
      Malcolm M. Mountaineering fatalities in Mt Cook National Park. N Z Med J. 2001;114:78â"80.
      Pollard A, Clarke C. Deaths during mountaineering at extreme altitude. Lancet. 1988;1:1277.
      Monasterio E. The Climber. Christchurch: Saxon Print; 2003:Issue 43/Autumn:p31â"2.
      Cloninger C, Przybeck T, Svrakic D, Wetzel R. The Temperament and Character Inventory: a guide to its development and use. Center for Psychobiology of Personality. St. Louis, Missouri: Washington University; 1994.

      http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/causes.asp
      http://www.americanalpineclub.org/americanalpineclublibrary
      http://www.penmachine.com/2003/02/damn-lies-statistics-and-fatality.html
      "The Everest numbers he mentioned (5%) roughly match the 4.3% high-mountain stats I quoted,"

      I am a member of the AAC and have been since the 1960's - and every year they publish their report on accidents in mountaineering. I don't have time to pull my copies and, in fact - I really have work to do. I have given you the best quick info I can find - but the AAC library is the best source.

    13. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      It is a, as I said, a "per capita" or per participant ratio. It doesn't matter that 10,000 climbers are dwarfed by 25,000,000 football players if, taken as a whole, the gross injury rates for football are well above climbing.

      It also takes a different kind of person to climb - one who enjoys the personal challenge and can quit if the route becomes too dangerous. The object of climbing is to climb - and mountaineering is to make the summit and return.

      Football is a contact sport where equipment is used to limit or protect against injuries in the ordinary course and scope of play. Climbers usually have a helmet as the sole "protective" gear aside from ropes, harnesses and appropriate clothing for the conditions.

      There is a theory - if you didn't fall - you didn't need the rope.

        And, indeed, people have "free climbed" (no direct aid, but roped) the nose route and the Salanthe Wall of El Capitan with an 80% success rate, See:
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitan

    14. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      AAC=American Alpine Club.

      Your Wikipedia link refers to professional football.

      See, http://www.livescience.com/health/060614_sport_injuries.html
      for injury stats.

  3. Damn by aaron+alderman · · Score: 5, Insightful
    That would suck balls. You manage to get all the way to the top only to die on the way down.

    Still, on the list of ways to kick the bucket, beats slipping in the shower any day.

    1. Re:Damn by HiVizDiver · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Maybe, maybe not. Very often climber's bodies are left on Everest because it's too dangerous to retrieve them. I guess that it's no big deal if you die up there, you're not using the body anymore, so who cares what happens to it. But its gotta suck for your family.

    2. Re:Damn by chill · · Score: 5, Funny

      This depends on who you were in the shower with and what you were doing at the time.

      The low temperature and lack of oxygen preclude any such interesting developments on top of Mt. Everest.

      --
      Learning HOW to think is more important than learning WHAT to think.
    3. Re:Damn by ChromeAeonium · · Score: 5, Funny

      Could be worse. You could make it all they way to the bottom and then die.

    4. Re:Damn by ragethehotey · · Score: 3, Insightful

      How selfish do you have to be to care about something like the retrieval of your body if you die doing something that is known to be this dangerous?

    5. Re:Damn by jcnnghm · · Score: 2, Interesting

      It's not that easy, operating helicopters at that altitude is risky, to say the least. While a helicopter was able to land at the summit in 2005, multiple helicopters have crashed trying to land at the base camp, 10,000 feet below.

      --
      You don't make the poor richer by making the rich poorer. - Winston Churchill
    6. Re:Damn by dexmachina · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Helicopters and mountains tend to not mix. The air is so thin that they can fail without warning and crash. The helicopter which supposedly landed on the summit that the sibling mentioned is supposed to have a ceiling of about 18 000 ft (Everest's summit is about 29 000 ft). I believe that landing's in dispute. Either way, Everest is well above the cruising altitude of your standard helicopter, and that's to say nothing of how dangerous landing (or even hovering) would be with the wind speeds up there.

    7. Re:Damn by HUADPE · · Score: 5, Insightful

      The problem is that the air is too thin. The area on the blades of a helicopter is much smaller than an airplane, and they depend much more on high velocity moving large volumes of air over those blades. There is very little air at those altitudes, and it is extremely difficult to control a helicopter. Correction for imbalanced weight is particularly difficult, and that's what you have when you try to pick up a body with a rope.

      --
      This sig has not been evaluated by the FDA. It is not designed to diagnose, treat, prevent, or cure any disease.
    8. Re:Damn by jcnnghm · · Score: 3, Informative

      The difficulty is that the air is very thin and the wind speeds can be quite high, with both updrafts and downdrafts, making the aircraft difficult to stabilize. The conditions may make it almost impossible to avoid touching the mountain.

      --
      You don't make the poor richer by making the rich poorer. - Winston Churchill
    9. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

      This is Slashdot. You were alone in the shower, and whatever you were doing I don't want to think about.

    10. Re:Damn by genner · · Score: 5, Funny

      This is Slashdot. You were alone in the shower, and whatever you were doing I don't want to think about.

      This is Slashdot.
      Most of us have only seen pictures of a shower.

    11. Re:Damn by genner · · Score: 4, Funny

      Could be worse. You could make it all they way to the bottom and then die.

      Well doesn't that happen to everyone who gets to the bottom. I mean eventually.

    12. Re:Damn by Antique+Geekmeister · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Sounds like a job for Zepellin, customized to work near Everest. It would have to be big, and the weather probably would have to be ideal, but the maximum height for balloons is considerably higher.

    13. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      Just send a helicopter.

      IIRC, the upper reaches of Everest are well above the normal operating range for helicopters. Not to mention the weather doesn't lend itself to careful rescue operations. And mountain flying is dangerous enough for fixed-wing aircraft, much less for helicopters.

      Old joke among the pilots:

      Helicopters can't really fly -- they're so ugly the earth repels them.

    14. Re:Damn by Hurricane78 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Additionally you get a ground effect at about 50-100ft (I think) and below, moving you away from the mountain and tilting you.

      It must really suck...err...blow...err... you know what I mean...

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    15. Re:Damn by piltdownman84 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Very often climber's bodies are left on Everest because it's too dangerous to retrieve them

      I'd rather my dead body be up there than on the mountain in a hole in the ground getting eaten by worms.

    16. Re:Damn by zippthorne · · Score: 4, Insightful

      The thin air is only half the problem. The strong eddies being the other half. A helicopter has barely enough lift to stay aloft at the proper altitude. An airship has far less than enough maneuverability to avoid terrain.

      What they need is some kind of cog railway, strong tethers, and the opposite of a JIM suit.

      Or, y'know, just leave the bodies up there. The permafrost makes for pretty good preservation, and you could do worse for a tombstone than the rock that reaches furthest above sea level on the planet.

      What I find far more concerning is the oxygen bottles these guys are bringing up. Apparently, they're only certified for one use, so they just leave them after they're done. But.. Would you really trust a single-use can in a pack of dozens, ON YOUR BACK? These morons are lucky if no one's died from a freakin' compressed air bomb yet.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    17. Re:Damn by Fluffeh · · Score: 2, Funny

      This is CLEARLY a job for the Space Elevator!

      Get someone into space, enjoy a nice little elevator ride down to the summit of Everest, maybe have a hot chocolate in the bistro, then shoot on back up the elevator on the next ride and back into space to be brought down to earth safely with a big jet or re-entry capsule. Gawd, I can't believe no-one thought of this already.

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      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    18. Re:Damn by myth_of_sisyphus · · Score: 2, Informative

      A few years ago there was a Korean expedition to specifically remove the body of another Korean climber who died. These 6 climbers moved the body 100 yards in 5 hours then gave up.

      Moving a body is too hard.

    19. Re:Damn by jelle · · Score: 5, Informative

      Well, I'm not an aviator, nor did I stay in a hotel last night, but the 'ceiling' you're quoting looks to be for the as350-b3 loaded with over 900lb on top of the standard 'empty weight', and the youtube video (that shows it sitting on the summit) shows only one person in it. The flight to return back down was very short, so they probably didn't have much fuel sitting in it at the moment that it was at the top either...

      Of course I could be wrong, but I'm convinced that they did it, with the machine they said they used...

      links:

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurocopter_Ecureuil

      http://www.robertsaircraft.com/as350b3.htm

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhYG-IgsRJ0&feature=related

      --
      --- Hindsight is 20/20, but walking backwards is not the answer.
    20. Re:Damn by zmollusc · · Score: 4, Funny

      Meh, stuff the body in a zorb and pick it up at the foot of the mountain.

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
    21. Re:Damn by Rich0 · · Score: 2, Informative

      I think that was the parent's point - they can fly like an airplane at those altitudes, but they can't hover.

      When a VTOL craft flies like an airplane it relies on its full wing surface - at a considerable forward airspeed - probably at least 200mph relative to the ground. The faster you move forward, the faster a wing works.

      When it converts to hover mode, a rotary wing craft like the Osprey is just a big ugly helicopter (and less than a great one at that - it is a design compromise). Those blades have a lot less surface area than the wing, and they can only rotate so fast.

      A thrust-direction system like the F35 can only hover when its maximum engine power is greater than the weight of the aircraft. The problem is that the power output of a jet decreases with altitude. Normally this is more than compensated by the lower atmosphere density which reduces drag, but that only helps if you're trying to move the airframe through the air.

      The VTOL aircraft would be aided slightly by the fact that they do have fixed wings that could be pointed into the relatively high winds up there - that would give them extra lift. However, I doubt these winds are uniform near the mountain so now you add all kinds of crazy stalls as your orientation changes.

      I'm not aware of any non-rocket engine technology that can reliably handle hovering at 29k feet. Rockets would certainly work - you'd still need to deal with eratic winds but the rocket engine does not vary much in power as a function of external atmospheric conditions (in fact, it might perform better the closer you get to vacuum - not sure how significant an effect the air around the rocket has). Of course, a rocket-powered aircraft is going to have to carry a lot of oxidizer - I guess a really clever design could utilize atmospheric air to reduce oxidizer requirements (kind of like an O2-injected turbojet).

    22. Re:Damn by SirGarlon · · Score: 2, Funny

      That's what happened to Sir Edmund Hillary. He climbed to the top of Everest, made it all the way to the bottom, and then died 55 years later.

      --
      [Sir Garlon] is the marvellest knight that is now living, for he destroyeth many good knights, for he goeth invisible.
    23. Re:Damn by elrous0 · · Score: 2, Funny

      Poor bastard probably thought he was out of danger too.

      --
      SJW: Someone who has run out of real oppression, and has to fake it.
  4. News flash... by fahrbot-bot · · Score: 5, Interesting

    They found that most deaths occur during descents from the summit in the so-called "death zone" above 8,000 meters.

    Um. If the chance of dying increases with time in the "death zone", and descents happen toward the end of your time in said zone, then duh. News flash: Chance of death increases proportional to time without adequate O2.

    --
    It must have been something you assimilated. . . .
    1. Re:News flash... by NotQuiteReal · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I propose the "recycling zone".

      --
      This issue is a bit more complicated than you think.
    2. Re:News flash... by at_slashdot · · Score: 2, Funny

      "next up death's while walking the Marinara Trench" -- I'd guess that would be caused by too much pizza ingestion...

      --
      "It is our choices, Harry, that show what we truly are, far more than our abilities." -- Prof. Dumbledore
    3. Re:News flash... by RudeIota · · Score: 2, Informative

      Marinara? heh. It's Mariana

      Yours sounds much more delicious though.

      --
      Fact: Everything I say is fiction.
    4. Re:News flash... by lysergic.acid · · Score: 4, Funny

      Marinara Trench? that sounds more delicious than deadly. or are the deaths caused by contracting food-poisoning at Sizzler?

      perhaps you meant Mariana?

    5. Re:News flash... by HUADPE · · Score: 2, Funny

      Marinara Trench? that sounds more delicious than deadly. or are the deaths caused by contracting food-poisoning at Sizzler?

      Sizzler? They still exist?

      --
      This sig has not been evaluated by the FDA. It is not designed to diagnose, treat, prevent, or cure any disease.
    6. Re:News flash... by niktemadur · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Chance of death increases proportional to time without adequate O2.

      Reading this, the greatest of all mountain climbers, Reinhold Messner, comes to mind. Back in the early eighties, Messner astonished the mountaneering community by achieving the unthinkable - climbing Everest solo with no oxygen.

      The fact that he bypassed Nepal and did it from the far steeper and more difficult northern, Tibetan side, was impressive enough.
      But whereas basically all expeditions are during the fair weather months of April and May, this crazy, crazy dude did it in August, during the full blast of storm season.

      Nobody has even attempted to repeat the feat in the almost thirty years since.

      Initially, I thought that the guy had a full fledged death wish, but on second thought, there's a great method to his madness - one of the biggest logistical problems in a conventional climb is to haul enough oxygen tanks up there, for a huge team composed of western climbers and Sherpa guides, then the prolonged time it takes to do that also implies hauling enough food and drink, etcetera, not a pretty sight.

      Reinhold Messner was freed from those constraints. His support team consisted of a woman named Nena Olguin... and that was it. All he had to do was haul enough supplies for a few days. As it turned out, he was back at base camp only three days after he set out. He was in the "death zone" for only a day or two, no more.

      On an unrelated but fascinating note, Messner, who's climbed the world's top twenty peaks without the aid of oxygen, also acquired a bit of a reputation in mountaneering circles after a Sherpa "introduced him to the pleasures of smoking hashish at extreme altitudes". Take that with a grain of salt and make of it what you will, but like I said, that is one crazy, crazy dude.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
  5. What about death from dumbassery by antifoidulus · · Score: 4, Insightful

    There seem to be a lot of people who really shouldn't climb it because they aren't nearly as well trained as they think they are, and yet climb it anway..... Thats gotta rank up there for reasons why people die up there.

    1. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Go read the book 'High Crimes'. It's a really amazing book about the greed, desperation and , simply put, evil that surrounds everest. Picture oxygen tanks stolen when a group makes its last ascent, knife fights, torn tents, etc..

    2. Re:What about death from dumbassery by aaron+alderman · · Score: 2, Funny

      Like biting peoples arms?

    3. Re:What about death from dumbassery by niktemadur · · Score: 3, Informative

      Guides take on people who may have done some training, but are not really experienced mountaineers. These guys become "drag-ups" to get to the summit. Their main qualification for the climb is some $30K or so to blow on the trip.

      Talking about "Into Thin Air":
      Remember how the socialite piggybacked on a Sherpa, slowing them both down, therefore the whole group? Not to single her out here, but that is a perfect example of unacceptable behavior in the "death zone", unseen when only true experts climbed the peaks.

      The book clearly describes the dilemma for expert climbers who become guns for hire, pressured by his tourists who do not fully grasp the lethality of the place - "I paid you $30K (I think it's more than that) to get me to the summit, and you'd better deliver, buster, or you'll never work in this mountain again".

      In a rarefied environment that weakens judgment, the impatient and headstrong, used to getting their way, just might apply enough pressure for the guide to cave in, plenty of involuntary foolishness to go around. Imagine a tourist's temper tantrum after weeks above 18,000 feet, and a few days inside the "death zone", being told their attempt has been foiled only a few hours from triumph. I shudder at the thought.

      Whereas if the guide was only with fellow experts, I imagine his word is final and no questions asked, maybe next year in Annapurna, you know? Not unlike the lieutenant in a combat unit.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
  6. That's true on MOST climbs of any height by gelfling · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Climbers die on the way down. It's more dangerous, you're more fatigued and your guard is down. You also tend to ignore clear signs of physical harm.

  7. Hypoxia by Renraku · · Score: 5, Informative

    The higher you climb, the harder your lungs have to work to extract enough oxygen from the air in order to keep you alive. If you don't get enough oxygen, you don't die immediately. Your brain starts becoming less and less efficient, since it cannot produce energy anaerobically, like the rest of your body can.

    Of course, this process is invisible to most people. Its comparable to how your brain isn't fully awake if you get woken up suddenly and feeling confused at the simplest tasks. Hypoxia also affects divers.

    The leakage of fluid from the vessels in the brain is caused by the same hypoxia, since the blood vessels need energy as well.

    The only solution is for climbers to take their own oxygen, or for someone to invent a mobile and low powered oxygen concentrator.

    --
    Job? I don't have time to get a job! Who will sit around and bitch about being broke and unemployed then?
    1. Re:Hypoxia by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      The leakage of fluid from the vessels in the brain is caused by the same hypoxia, since the blood vessels need energy as well.

      I was about to post a sarcastic [citation needed] comment up in response to this, but checked what you said first and was pleasantly surprised to find myself entirely wrong. For anyone interested here's a link to info:

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HACE

    2. Re:Hypoxia by lysergic.acid · · Score: 4, Interesting

      hrmm... while the Wikipedia article on cerebral edema supports your statement that HACE (high altitude cerebral edema) is caused by hypoxia, the actual HACE article suggests that HACE is a severe form of altitude sickness, for which the only cure is to descend to a lower altitude (an oxygen supply can help to stabilize a patient, but it isn't a cure). from the Wiki article on altitude sickness:

      The cause of altitude sickness is still not understood. It occurs in low atmospheric pressure conditions but not necessarily in low oxygen conditions at sea level pressure. Although treatable to some extent by the administration of oxygen, most of the symptoms do not appear to be caused by low oxygen, but rather by the low CO2 levels causing a rise in blood pH, alkalosis. The percentage of oxygen in air remains essentially constant with altitude at 21 percent, but the air pressure (and therefore the number of oxygen molecules) drops as altitude increases. Altitude sickness usually does not affect persons traveling in aircraft because modern aircraft passenger compartments are pressurized.

      also, don't most Everest climbers use oxygen when they try to summit? i'd be interested in seeing how many deaths were caused by inadequate oxygen supplies, or whether oxygen tanks actually have any effect on one's chances of contracting cerebral edema. and if the Wikipedia HACE article is indeed correct about high altitude cerebral edema usually occurring after a week or more at high altitude, then it would seem that acclimatization does not help prevent HACE.

      however, the altitude sickness article seems to give a different take on the etiology of high altitude cerebral edema:

      It is currently believed, however, that HACE is caused by local vasodilation of cerebral blood vessels in response to hypoxia, resulting in greater blood flow and, consequently, greater capillary pressures. On the other hand, HAPE may be due to general vasoconstriction in the pulmonary circulation (normally a response to regional ventilation-perfusion mismatches) which, with constant or increased cardiac output, also leads to increases in capillary pressures. For those suffering HACE, dexamethasone may provide temporary relief from symptoms in order to keep descending under their own power.

      though i'm not sure why a hypertensive like dexamethasone would be prescribed if HACE were the result of increased capillary pressure and vasoconstriction. seems like it would make more sense to prescribe a hypotensive like clonidine. lowering your blood pressure would help to alleviate capillary pressure and slow the spread of edema, though it would probably make you more tired & reduce your strength, so this would only be appropriate for stabilizing a patient if they're going to be carried down.

  8. Unsurprising it occurs during descent by syousef · · Score: 5, Insightful

    People exhaust themselves climbing up, but most when they do realize they are in trouble will turn back...or perhaps they realize they have enough and push on to get up there, but don't leave enough in reserve to come back down. Also there's a false sense of achievement - "I made it to the summit!" - but while making it back down alive is actually more improtant it may be anticlimactic and not as big a motivator when you're spent after the effort of reaching the top.

    --
    These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
    1. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by Hoi+Polloi · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume most readers have never climbed about 10,000 ft. I haven't been up any 8,000 meter peaks myself but my few times about 14,000 ft have taught me that the big danger isn't so much the direct low 02 pressure (pulmonary edema, cerebral edema) but the intense urge to just sit and "rest for a while". The body's ability to generate heat is hampered by the lack of O2, add to that a very cold environment, strong winds, and someone deciding to sit and rest and they may never get up again. Fatigue on top of a complete loss of motivation and disorientation is the big killer. Hypothermia alone will lead you to this state; low O2 combined with it is a doubled threat. Even if you don't lie down you make mistakes with gear, improperly tie knots, put crampons on wrong, etc.

      Most accidents happen on the way down regardless of the altitude. It is when people are their most fatigued, let their guard down, have gravity tugging them away from the slope, and are rushing to beat sundown. When you reach the summit people forget they are only 50% done. As the old saying goes, "Summitting is optional, descending is mandatory."

      As far as the sherpa vs nonsherpa death rate I'd say you have to take into account that sherpas grow up and live at high altitudes. They also are frequently used for many expeditions so they are in very good shape physically and are well trained. Compare that to someone who may have only been to high altitude a few times in their life and who's last major climbing trip may have been years ago. Sherpas, unlike the other climbers, aren't there expecting to summit. They frequently are manning camps, laying fixed lines at lower altitudes, setting up higher camps, etc. They don't have summit fever and if told to turn around will do so (remember, the clients on Everest can be paying $65,000 to be there). They can still get altitude sickness though. I have read about sherpas going to, say, coastal India for a while and then getting altitude sickness apon returning to high altitude.

      --
      It is by the juice of the coffee bean that thoughts acquire speed, the teeth acquire stains. The stains become a warning
    2. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by drew · · Score: 2, Informative

      "Summitting is optional, descending is mandatory."

      More than anything else, I think that this is the key. I've climbed a couple of 14,000 foot peaks and a number of 13,000 foot peaks. On the way up, if you know something is wrong, you can turn back. Some people get "summit fever" and ignore the impending problems. I've been guilty of this myself once or twice, and have gotten lucky. Others just don't recognize them because they don't have enough experience. However, intelligent and experienced climbers can often recognize many problems before they become critical, and take the appropriate action.

      However, once you've reached the top, there is no "go back". If something goes wrong your only option is to continue on your course until you get back to shelter. And of course, as somebody said earlier, it's also partly simple statistics- The longer you have been up there, the more time there is for something to go wrong. It's bad enough when you are dealing with 14,000 foot peaks, but the starting point of an Everest ascent, if I remember correctly, is around 16,000 feet. And, generally speaking, the number one rule in First Aid when you are above 16,000 feet is "Get below 16,000 feet." That's a lot of time for something to go wrong, and not a whole lot you can do about it if it does.

      --
      If I don't put anything here, will anyone recognize me anymore?
  9. Why people die on mount everest by neuromanc3r · · Score: 5, Funny
  10. This is silly by beav007 · · Score: 5, Funny

    The reason that nobody Rs TFA is because the answers are so bleeding obvious.

    It has nothing to do with O2 - the deaths are caused by Yetis.

    Like many guard dogs, they will happily let you onto the property. They just don't let you back out again.

    1. Re:This is silly by beav007 · · Score: 2, Funny

      yetis are often known as abominable snowmen.

      It is common knowledge that this is only because breath mints are difficult to find in the Himalayas.

    2. Re:This is silly by AragornSonOfArathorn · · Score: 5, Funny

      Yetis love Whoppers (the malted-milk ball candy). If you bring enough to share, they might let you live.

      --
      sudo eat my shorts
  11. You get bends going UP by EmbeddedJanitor · · Score: 4, Informative
    You get the bends when reducing pressure causes bubbling due to your tissue having more disolved gases than it can hold. Just like a soft drink fizzes when you reduce pressure, the dissolved gases come out of the liquid.

    Thus, you can only get the bends going up.

    --
    Engineering is the art of compromise.
    1. Re:You get bends going UP by lysergic.acid · · Score: 5, Insightful

      well, most Everest deaths do occur in the "death zone" (above 8,000 meters), so even though it happens on the descent, the pathology that would ultimately kill them (cerebral edema) could have began during their ascent to the summit, and there could simply be a delay between the onset of the disease and the actual time of death.

      but the article doesn't really say what induces the leakage of blood vessels which causes cerebral edema. so it could be the altitude, or it could be the extreme cold, or it could be a combination of the two.

    2. Re:You get bends going UP by mabhatter654 · · Score: 5, Informative

      it's the "opposite" effect going on. At high pressures extra gas adds to your fluids, just like bubbles added to really cold pop under pressure. Warm it up and take off the pressure and you get fizz... only inside your brain which is generally not good.
      In this case, the air pressure is so low the membranes that hold liquid don't work properly to hold it in... It's probably like a mild version of vacuum degassing used in manufacturing... in addition to the lack of oxygen.

    3. Re:You get bends going UP by Hurricane78 · · Score: 3, Insightful

      It's the reduced pressure. That's why it's called leakage. :)

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    4. Re:You get bends going UP by flappinbooger · · Score: 5, Funny

      I think it's because they are in the "death zone".

      If that were to be avoided.... Hmmmmm....

      Yep, that's my recommendation. Avoid the "death zone".

      --
      Flappinbooger isn't my real name
    5. Re:You get bends going UP by Analogy+Man · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Really the climbing at that altitude is an abuse of the human body. The people doing so are managing risk and doing a bit of personal extrapolation to sense whether with the current environmental conditions and how they feel will allow for a summit attempt.
      So it only makes sense that errors in this estimation process are going to be revealed in the later half (i.e. the descent).

      --
      When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
    6. Re:You get bends going UP by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Funny

      "All the zones have names like that in the Galaxy of Terror."

    7. Re:You get bends going UP by DeadPixels · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Or maybe because it's really freaking cold and icy. Only on /. do we question why people die on a freezing mountain...

    8. Re:You get bends going UP by CmdrGravy · · Score: 3, Insightful

      It could also be that when weather conditions or problems with their equipment, themselves or their fellow climbers turn hazardous and become the sort of conditions which can easily kill you most people may well have decided to turn around and begin their descent. Thus most people would be descending during the periods when they're most likely to die.

    9. Re:You get bends going UP by smooth+wombat · · Score: 2, Funny

      Yep, that's my recommendation. Avoid the "death zone".

      It's just a name, like the Death Zone, or the Zone of No Return. All the zones have names like that in the Galaxy of Terror.

      --
      We will bankrupt ourselves in the vain search for absolute security. -- Dwight D. Eisenhower
    10. Re:You get bends going UP by Ash+Vince · · Score: 2, Interesting

      So it only makes sense that errors in this estimation process are going to be revealed in the later half (i.e. the descent).

      Partly, but there is another factor that comes to my mind as an experienced non-ice climber: Descending is actually harder then ascending.

      While downclimbing your head is at the wrong end so you cannot fully see where you are going. You have to place each crampon in the ice blindly then try and shift your weight to it and see how it feels. This is damn hard work and extremely scary. When I am was leading outdoors in the Alps last year (on solid rock) I went up something that scared me shitless simply because downclimbing the bit I had just done was far more scary at the time. Even on rock you cannot see what you just put you foot on so feeling is everything.

      Most climbers learn to trust their hands far more than their feet as you have more control over your hands. If my feet lose traction it is my arms that will do the recovering. Partly because snap loading my arms is less likely to fracture a bone and partly because it is easier to see something to grab as it flies past. On ice you smash your ice axe in to whatever looks solid and hope it holds long enough or slows you down enough to do the same with the other arm.

      I may tear muscle fibre but this is a hell of a lot less painful than a compound spiral fracture of one my shin bones or major dislocation of my knee joint. Also, if I trash an arm totally I may manage to get off the mountain and then walk back to civilisation, this is much harder if I cannot even walk when I get to the bottom. Climbers routinely practice snap loading their arms by letting go then catching a feature a few feet below before a major expedition or tricky climb.

      Lowering off using ropes is frequently out of the question since you probably do not have enough gear to leave an anchor point left on the mountain every 60 metres or so. To do this on everest would probably require carrying hundreds of icescrews but I cannot be bothered to work out an exact number since carrying 10 or 15 each is about your limit with all the other gear you need. You will leave some on the mountain, but you have to choose the places you use them on the descent very carefully. (On the ascent your second can collect them as he climbs the bit you have just lead)

      Disclaimer: I have never seriously injured myself half way up a mountain. This is all theoretical and I hope it stays that way.

      --
      I dont read /. to RTFA, I read /. to offend people in ignorance.
  12. Obligatory mangled Futurama quote by Exatron · · Score: 4, Funny

    It's just a name, like the Forbidden Zone or the Zone of no Return. All the zones have names like that on the Mountain of Terror

    --
    "I think so, Brain, but 'instant karma' always gets so lumpy." - Pinky
    "Decepticons FOREVER!!!" - Ravage
  13. Avalanches and falling ice? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Now what serious climber really believed those were the primary causes?

  14. Avalanche? Ice? First I've heard of that... by MikeV · · Score: 5, Informative

    I have never seen anyone claim that the primary cause of death on Everest is avalanche or falling ice - I'm not sure where that fiction came from. It is common knowledge that the primary cause of death up there is directly related with complications from being in the dead zone, combined with the complications of frequent blizzards that hamper the attempts to get out of the dead zone. Climbers run out of oxygen and also get lost. Some have to be left behind by others because all are under distress and unable to help the straggler. It's a very deadly place to go and is foolish in that one in ten end up dying up there.

    1. Re:Avalanche? Ice? First I've heard of that... by guanxi · · Score: 2, Informative

      Per the actual research, the primary cause of death (above basecamp) is indeed physical trauma. The table is here:
      http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content-nw/full/337/dec11_1/a2654/TBL2

      The actual article is here:
      http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/337/dec11_1/a2654

  15. "death zone" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    most deaths occur during descents from the summit in the so-called "death zone"

    Well, there's your problem! Just name that part of the mountain something else!

  16. i was thinking about this recently by circletimessquare · · Score: 4, Interesting

    when it came to cheaters in sports, they'll do things like dope with epo

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erythropoietin

    and blood bank: inject their own previously extracted, concentrated red blood cells back into themselves before the run/ bike (with the subsequent increase in clot risk, of course)

    of course, why can't climbers do this as well? take all of the illegal things they do in sports and apply it legally. of course, they are raising their risk of death with some of these body modifications, but at a lower, controlled risk than that from climbing a mountain without any body preparation at all

    regardless, any climber should spend time running marathons in the high alps or the high sierra to increase red blood cell production naturally, if you are not genetically a sherpa

    --
    intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
    1. Re:i was thinking about this recently by hughk · · Score: 2, Informative

      Because there's no (big) money on it. People still climb the Everest (and that's even truer for mountains with not such a big name) because the sake of it.

      You still spend serious money climbing everest, add to that the gear so dropping an extra $10K-$20K on high-altitude adaptive treatments wouldn't be a problem..

      --
      See my journal, I write things there
    2. Re:i was thinking about this recently by lena_10326 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Nit pick. Doping in sports isn't illegal if you're referring to the law (at least in USA). The most common, steroids and EPO, are not illegal compounds.

      --
      Camping on quad since 1996.
    3. Re:i was thinking about this recently by smellsofbikes · · Score: 2, Informative

      The problem with the so-called dead zone is that there isn't enough air pressure to force oxygen into your blood, across the lung cells. You can have all the red blood cells you want, but if they can't get oxygen in, you have a problem.
      The ValSalva Maneuver is a way of coping with this, to some extent: you suck in air and then compress your lungs like you're a kid trying to make your face red. That increases the air pressure.

      There are different kinds of hypoxia. One is not having enough red blood cells (or poisoned red blood cells, as seen in smokers or cyanide victims.) Another is not having enough oxygen pressure to get air into those cells. Epo treats the wrong problem here. Bicyclists are running into limits getting oxygen from the air jammed through their blood and into their muscles, and epo helps with that. (However a little bit of dehydration and your blood turns to jello -- something like half the Dutch national cycling team died in two consecutive years back in the early '90's because they were overdosing on epo and having heart attacks from blood cells jamming up their capillaries.)

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
  17. genius by binaryseraph · · Score: 4, Funny

    Hmm why do climbers die on everest? wweellll jeeez, its a giant mound of rock and ice that humans are not designed to be climbing on naturally. Thanks for the clarification science!

  18. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by aaron+alderman · · Score: 5, Funny
    Make it the last thing you do.

    Just in case

  19. Another unexpected way... by NerveGas · · Score: 3, Funny

    One of my friends went to hike Everest... he didn't make it very far up. Eating food from some of the natives made him very sick (projectiles from both ends), and he was drug off to a hospital. He didn't die, but it was a possibility in his condition.

    THAT would suck... travel half-way around the world, to be taken down by tourist food.

    --
    Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
  20. Everyone knows....its the gun violence by computerchimp · · Score: 3, Funny

    Gun violence and cancer are the 2 killers on Everest. How could they miss this?

  21. Good book on the problem by dbIII · · Score: 2, Informative
    "White Limbo" by Lincoln Hall is about a 1984 Everest expedition where there were problems with very severe frostbite and cerebral edema. They all survived by alternatively going down as quickly as possible, turning back early when things looked risky and one climber kept his damaged hands frozen outside his sleeping bag so that he could still hold an ice axe and make it down alive at the cost of his hands.

    He also wrote "Alive in the death zone" after his 2006 expedition when he was thought dead and left overnight by his fellow climbers after suffering a cerebral edema on the way down. I haven't read that one yet.

    The writer may sound a bit accident prone but consider the time between those two dates :)

    1. Re:Good book on the problem by dbIII · · Score: 2, Informative
      People recover from cerebral edemas as long as they come down to a low altitude quickly enough (eg. Tim McCartney Snape in the 1984 expedition and Lincoln Hall in 2006).

      Writing a book without fingers and toes however does sound pretty difficult to me, and that's what Lincoln Hall did for the book about the 2006 expedition.

      Anyway, I recommend "White Limbo" and reviewers liked the other book.

  22. Re:Because people are assholes by CohibaVancouver · · Score: 4, Informative

    Climbers die while descending Mount Everest because even though hundreds of people capable of rescuing them pass, all of those people have paid upwards of $25,000 to have a chance to summit the peak, and none of those assholes are willing to risk their precious experience to save someone's life.

    Well, Anonymous Coward, that's not entirely true. While I'm not a climber, I've read numerous books on climbing Everest, as well as watched several documentaries and talked to some climbers about it. As I understand it, once you're in the death zone, *every step* is an ordeal. You literally think about it, lift your foot, move it, and put it down, then think about the next one. Apparently it's like trying to walk with a 200 pound backpack on. In many cases, if you're climbing Everest and you come upon someone in need of assistance, even if you want to, there's nothing you can do. You can't carry someone in the death zone, there's no sled to put them on, no ski patrol with a helicopter. Basically, all you can do is give them your oxygen bottle, make them comfortable, and then get back to trudging. Tragic, but true.

  23. The actual research report in BMJ by guanxi · · Score: 3, Informative

    You can read the actual research for yourself in British Medical Journal:

    http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/337/dec11_1/a2654

  24. Comment removed by account_deleted · · Score: 5, Funny

    Comment removed based on user account deletion

  25. I had to do this.. by blitziod · · Score: 2, Funny

    because it's there!

    --
    The only way to bust a doper--is when you yourself become a smoker!
  26. Stories of challenge... by PhotoGuy · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I have mixed feelings on the Everest thing. I guess I can understand people wanting to test their limits, and push themselves. And the isolation and harsh environment can be intruiging.

    However, the stories of loved ones, wifes and children, left behind when someone screws up and dies, really make these acts seem selfish at times. (Stories such as the adventurer calling the loved ones on the satellite phone before their inevitable deaths make for good drama, but don't change the fact that it's horribly unnecessary risk for someone with a family...)

    If I'm were well enough off to have $65,000 to plunk into a hobby, I think one of my main goals in life would be to stay *alive* and enjoy it :) ("Okay, I made it, I'm succesful; now let's not screw it up and die!")

    I have somewhat more sympathy for folks like Steve Fosset who took fairly calculated risks with a lot of safety measures included (and ironically didn't die doing anything particularly dangerous), and potentially pushed some technological research in his quests.

    To wax philisophical for a moment, perhaps it's because there aren't a lot of life-risking activities that can greatly advanced mankind these days, as in the days of the explorers. Maybe the same mentality of Columbus (or insert-your-favorite-explorer-here), just doesn't have a satisfying role in today's society, where all the exploring is pretty much done, so these people find these substitue quests to pacify them. ("Deep space astronaut" might be a good calling for these folks, but there's not exactly a lot of openings.)

    Or perhaps I just personally don't see the lure of mountain climbing; it's likely other folks I admire, such as more modern transatlantic sailing adventurers (e.g. Joshua Solcum) could be considered to be in the same class, achieving things that tested their limits, but in the end didn't really advance mankind, other than providng some great tales. (See "Sailing around the world alone.")

    (Even more off-topic, for a bizarre story about business/financial/PR pressures for a sailing circumnavigation, and the ensuing cheating and resulting insanity, check out Deep Water. A fascinating story, and good documentary on it.)

    To each his own, I guess. Intentionally risking hypoxia doesn't sound like that much of a kick to me (although I hear hypoxia is fun, for the few minutes before you die).

    --
    Love many, trust a few, do harm to none.
  27. What? "David Manning" loved it! by Mathinker · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Did you manage to get your share of the class action refund?

    Thanks for bringing yet another episode of Sony sliminess to my attention.

  28. Re:Everest: Beyond the Limit by myth_of_sisyphus · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I was surprised at the basic ineptitude of most of the climbers. There were logjams at ladders because people didn't know how to negotiate them and other climbers are literally yelling at others "you incompetent fuck!" etc. etc...

  29. This is *not* news. by Qbertino · · Score: 5, Interesting

    This isn't news at all. Mount Everrest actually is a mountain for sissies, technically speaking. The standard route to the summit is more of an extended hike than an actual climb compared to 'real' mountains such as the Cerro Torre. At sea level it would be a more like a walk in the park, literaly.

    The difficult part with Everest is taking your time to aclimatise - which can take up to half a year. Which most people don't do. Others take O2 with them. Yet O2 only means you won't die inmediately in the death zone if your gear doesn't fail, it doesn't mean making the summit is a sure bet. Most people die on Everest because the lack of O2 gets to their brain and they start doing stupid things. Meaning more stupid things than going up there unprepared in the first place. That's why the standard route is littred with corpses.

    If it were a real mountain that required actual high-profile tech-climbing skills, we'd have much less idiots dying up there, simply because they couldn't reach the death-zone.

    --
    We suffer more in our imagination than in reality. - Seneca
  30. Altitude + storm = bad? by jlehtira · · Score: 3, Interesting

    It just occurred to me that air pressure depends on two things, altitude AND weather :). Usually during storms the air pressure would drop significantly even on the sea level, and similar could be expected on the mountain. Maybe that time altitude + storm meant lower air pressure than her previous higher altitudes in good weather?

    I climb and study meteorology. You've given me a very nice question to think about :). What you say about edemas is probably very true, but maybe this is an additional reason to take storms extremely seriously?

  31. Think of the handicapped! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    I think there should be a cable carriage or a vertical tunnel with elevator inside that takes to the top of Mt. Everest.

    Currently there is a discrimination against the ill, disabled or elderly persons, who are not able to visit the summit, because they are unable to climb up there.

    The UN Declaration of Human Rights codifies people have to right to travel where-ever they want. Technology does allow for mechanized transport service for the Mt. Everest, therefore it should be provided, just as wheelchair ramps are prescibed by law for public institutions and shopping malls.

  32. A climber's answer by jlehtira · · Score: 4, Interesting

    A climber intentionally risks many other things, like falling into a crevasse on a glacier, getting caught in a storm on a mountain, etc. I climb, and for me it's very satisfying to manage these risks by making good decisions and surviving in good health from something that is serious business. It's an adventure, and even when it's not a large step for the mankind, it's a kind of personal exploration. Doesn't matter so much if other people charted the glaciers and summits before me, I'm still learning very much about the planet we live on.

    The risk management is not unlike driving a car. While driving fast there's a significant risk of death which we manage. People drive cars even when many die while doing just that. Of course it's much more satisfying to do something a bit less mundane in tremendous surroundings. I don't know why, but after my first trip to Himalayas I've had this calling.. It's not something that existed before that, though.

    You probably shouldn't equate climbing with the Everest so much. People who go to Everest are the types who want to climb the highest mountains - as if that was the superior achievement. And Everest is relatively easy too, it's only challenging because of the height. Most climbers are happier on lower hills. Most climbers never risk hypoxia. And some climbers still climb mountains that have never been climbed by anyone.

    Climbing today might not advance the humanity as a whole very much, but advances still happen. At least the equipment used in climbing and professions who use ropes has developed a great deal during the last decades. It's actually so fast that during my three years of climbing, I'm already seeing technological advances. Also, thanks to the climbers, there's a lot of science done on which knots are the best in saving lives, and which others occasionally fail. This might not get you excited, but it does that to me ;).

  33. Never Thought You'd Ask. by mpapet · · Score: 2, Informative

    1. "Downhill" is not like skiing or rapelling downhill. 80% down and 20% up makes that 20% downhill *days* worth of extremely hard effort.

    2. Physical issues. Having camped above 10,000 feet, I can tell you the amount of water required for drinking so you don't get dehydrated is crazy. Medium physical efforts at that altitude leave you breathless. Imagine trying to move ~200 lbs dead weight around clothed like the Michelin Man.

    3. Hostile environment. Lack of oxygen, extreme and unpredictable weather, and water and food delivery requirements all add up to a l-o-n-g time up and down the mountain.

    It all adds up quickly to a months-long effort to retrieve a body.

    --
    http://www.maxineudall.com/2010/02/should-economists-be-sued-for-malpractice.html