>McDonald's is jsut cutting edge for serving coffee 40 degrees hotter than your home machine can make it.
Look, either way she'd be hurt rather badly.
I just wish the coffee contained acid -- that way this dumb idiot would be part of the Darwin Awards and she wouldn't have seen a dime (dead witnesses don't talk).
Seriously, though, it doesn't matter how bad the damage is, if you do something clearly unintended and dangerous with a product, YOU ARE STILL AN IDIOT.
Sheesh, next thing you know someone will sue a rat poison company because it fell and got mixed in with the veal, causing the person eating the veal to go blind due to the abnormally high concentration of POISON in the rat poison on his veal.
Oh, look, I spilled HOT coffee on my lap and today it is ABNORMALLY hot coffee, so I think I'll sue.
I'm just waiting for a now deaf person to sue the manufacturer of their stereo for making it abnormally LOUD.
But, as I'm not a coffee connoisseur, maybe the point of coffee is to drink it lukewarm? Only avid coffee drinkers can attest.
I am a bit of a stereo connoisseur, though, and part of the point of a stereo is to have as much headroom as possible to help ensure the best dynamic range and quality. I guess you just can't compare coffee, rat poison, and stereos, though.
>It was too late to scrape it off so I just let it burn away by running it without a heatsing for a while and the smell went. I DO NOT RECOMEND THIS!!!
Neither do I or Tom's Hardware.
It takes 3 seconds to set an Athlon on fire.
Don't do this folks. Just _very_ carefully scrape it away if you screw up like this instead...
Two important things to do before following that advice:
- Remove the battery from the motherboard prior to insertion.
- Be sure you buy pure rubbing alcohol. The 70% USP stuff at the Drugstore/Chemists is not what you want for this job.
Bonus:
- The motherboard will stink like polysporin for a while instead...:-D
First, the drums wear out FAR too fast for a high-capacity drum (10k pages? Pffft... I've seen single use drums that can do more).
Two, they have a forced drum change counter.
Three, their drums are AMAZINGLY overpriced ($200 US for a drum for a printer they sold for $150 US? STUFF THAT).
Fourth, resetting the drums is a PITA. You have a cut up a home-made transparent reset sheet. Even then, all that gets you is crappy output anyways, since the drum really is worn out at that point.
When you buy a Brother, you're buying a 10k page investment.
Of course, as a tech I shouldn't hate them that much. I'm already enjoying a free, working perfectly, needed a drum reset page printer right now.:-) Not that I'd turn in any work printed from it though (UGH).
But I do like the 9-pin dot-matrix emulation, though. Heh...
Yeah, if you know what you're doing, yet get 2 or 3 at a 90% discount (not working, but still turning on, for example) and repair the things. Most smaller printers aren't that hard to tear apart and fix up.
I did the above and made one LJ II and one LJ II.5 with the guts of two LJ IIs and one LJ III. One had a completely destroyed fuser, another a dead pickup roller, and another had a near-dead AC power supply. Fixing them was like playing with lego.:-) Best part is I sold one of the fixed printers for the price of all the broken ones put together (and I've had no callbacks).
Plus, people who don't know much about a printer and just want to get rid of a broken one leave in nice "options" like 4MB memory cards, $200 LJ II/III jetdirect cards and such.
I'd never, EVER, buy a new printer again. I get about 4000 (probably way more -- just my guess from what I printed before I replaced the (already partially used) cartridge) pages on a refurbished (but still top notch looking) drum/toner cart. for just $25 US. Just try that with a printer made in the past 5 years...
>Those have to pass QC at the factory
In my experience this means nothing. I think HP has blind slave-workers doing their QC.
>So you bought 25 corporate copies of XP, but you're going to use a key you got off the net for all of them?
Yeah, why not?
In a large company there's many screwups that can cause the windows installer tech to not have the serials that came with the CDs (they came with the computer, for example, and now the hardware department has ahold of them and you only have one machine and one bare windows CD to install from -- it's happened to me). So you go on the net, get a serial number, and install rather than go through trying to contact the other department (it only takes about 10 seconds of surfing to get a generic CD Key).
If you use ghost (like 100% of all companies I've either worked with or seen in operation [even ones with just 2 computers]) then all the installs will have the same serial and *boom*, you're screwed.
>So you have 25 workstations running a pirated copy of Win XP and MS is supposed to care that you wont be installing SP1
Who says its pirated?
There's nothing illegal with buying 25 corporate copies of XP and using any key you can get your hands on (makes it easier for ghosting, for example). If it were, Master Lock would be after me for picking my way into my locked filing cabinet for which I have no key...
The RBL was optional (beats me how it was configured). By default your account is spam-blocked, but if you want to change that, a quick call to customer service and the problem is reversed.
My bets are that after 2 or 3 weeks of switching back accounts you'd be down to a call a week about it. No biggie. And the 95% of customers who didn't call are happier, and can show their friends their spam-free email account (and, whoopie, you just got another customer).
>So, if you were passing your courses "handily", why did you fail out?
I only passed the digital courses "handily".
>Also, I must assume that EET means electrical engineering technician, which isn't even a real electrical engineer.
Well, assume makes an ass out of you. But not me this time -- EET is Electrical Engineering Technologist, which is a combination of the lower end EE math and higher end technician work. I wasn't interested in just sitting in front of a computer designing crap 24/7, and I wasn't just interested in soldering 24/7. Technologist gives a good balance between the two. Lots of troubleshooting via redesigning circuits (rather than just finding the fault and letting the EE know about it).
>An EET is like an EE who never took any math courses and doesn't really understand what's going on.
Nope. Double wrong. But if you want to live in that dreamworld, that's fine by me.
>But, if you failed out of some 2-year EET school (DeVrye?), I feel sorry for you.
No, its a three year program -- soon to be acknowledged as a Polytechnic program (about time too).
You are wrong about a great many things. It's a little sad, actually.:-(
>Anyway, that's what I learned. But, again, since I never took an EE course, I'm probably wrong.
No, you're not too far off, and I did say I flunked out, and there's good reason for that.
It's really not been my week. But I'll make up for my paragrah of less-than-prime information by providing a page of real information!
Anyways, unfortunately, since I haven't had a lot of real-world LCD experience, I can only tell you this -- LCDs are probably AC PWM (or duty cycle modulated) because LCDs last longer under an AC charge, and it is just easier to use PWM rather than a direct change in AC voltage due to the minute changes in AC voltage required to change contrast in an LCD without using PWM.
[Not that you can't change an AC voltage, of course...]
Basically you can either design a really stable circuit that can control the small amount of voltage change necessary to keep the LCD in its middle state, or you can fake it by turning it fully on and fully off fast enough that it appears grey. PWM is used all the time to save a few bucks, and there's no problem with it, except that you trade the effort involved in making a good circuit with the effort involved in finding the "magic numbers" that keep the LCD in the grey zone.
>i took the rca outputs from my turntables and got a rca to 1/8th of an inch (the walkman sized headphone plug) converter and stuck that into the line in on my soundcard (a SB Live) then i fired up goldwave and set it to record the input and recorded it at the highest level possible.
Uh, just a *big* suggestion here -- you really must use an RIAA-curve biased phono preamp between the record player and the computer's line in (maybe you did that and I didn't notice -- sorry).
That way it'll sound like it should (less bright, for instance) and you won't need to jack up the input to full.
You might want to re-rip those albums anyways. The XING encoder (click on Analysis) has a serious bug that limits much of any kind of serious quality increase past 128 kbps mp3.
That's it. Slashdot screwed up again, and I just don't feel like writing my comment again.
[PSA mode on]
So I'll keep it short: Kids who just read the above comment, remember, just because the shock doesn't kill you doesn't mean the soldering iron you get thrown on top of won't. Always talk to a TV repair guy (or someone else with experience) before you open up your TV.
Okay, I know quite a bit about how LCDs and CRTs use separate colour pixes and simulate the real colour.
I learned a LOT about the lies of LCD resolutions when I was shopping for a VR/Television headset (that I never bought because _no one_ had them for show in the Kitchener-Waterloo area, except for a barely pre-beta-production pair at the Sony shop that were priced exorbitantly).
Non-consumer LCD specs are rated at their monochrome specifications, that is to say they are rated at 3x their resolution with no colour guarantees (because that's the job of the controller, not the LCD).
Consumer LCD specs are rated at their full colour specifications whenever they mention "colours" in the same line. For example, "Displays 160x160 resolution at 16-bit colour". However, if colours are *not* listed on the same line, its fair game to say its a 480x180 pixel display, _but_ on a fully fledged consumer device one would have to back that up with OS support for a fake monochome display using the separate colour pixels (which Palm does _not_ have).
Now, as far as raw CRTs and raw LCDs actually having bit depths associated with them, this is false. As the raw pixels on LCDs and the minimum size points formed by the shadow mask CRTs are purely analog in nature, you cannot state a bit depth for them. You are only limited by what the controller can do for an LCD, and with a CRT you are unlimited (unless the designer of the controller was on LSD at the time).
Anyways, since you seem so interested in learning how all this works (as you asked me to look it up for you, but I don't need to, since I learned all this in the few EET courses I passed handily) I'll explain why all this is to you. What a nice guy I am, huh?
Okay, lets start with CRTs. These are complicated little beasties when you get into colour, so lets start with monochrome.
The tube you are looking at right now is evacuated of all air. In the rear of it is a heating element, which causes a material in front of it to emit electrons. The amount of electrons emitted is controlled by a control grid in front of this material. This is what allows us to control the intensity, or brightness of the beam. This is controlled through voltage, and therefore is completely analog unless you choose to hook it up to a digital controller. After the beam is attenuated by the control grid, it then passes by "yokes", or electromagnetic coils in a standard CRT, or for an oscilloscope CRT, these are deflection plates. In either case, a voltage is applied to these. A higher voltage moves the electon beam away from that yoke/plate, however a lower voltage does not move it closer (this is why a TV requires at least a 4-way yoke, or 4 deflection plates). Moving the beam causes a spot on the phospor covered, lead impregnated part of the screen you see to light up (it actually excites the phosphor and causes it to emit light waves and x-rays rather than electrons). X-Rays (which are mostly of the soft form anyways) are curtailed by the lead, and the lead is grouned to remove the resulting electrical charge caused by all this electronic conversion away from the screen. Not to mention it keeps the EXTREMELY high voltage used called the "screen" from killing you. Beats me what this was about, nobody ever explained it (could that just be part of why I failed out of EET?:-)
Now we can see if this beam is moved about the screen it will create points of light all over. P22 phospor (which is what is used in starndard computer monitors) does not instantly stop emitting light when charged and, knowing this, we can use it to our advantage and move the beam quickly enough about the screen to keep the entire screen bright.
Now, modulating the yoke and control grid we can produce a picture. NTSC combines all this into one signal (bad). Fortunately, VGA does not, and is still completely analog (and could display google bit colour, if you so desired). VGA uses separate vertical and horizontal deflection signals, and also has separate voltage controls for the different colours red, green and blue (which we're about to get to).
A shadow mask placed behind the phospor on a screen allows the three beams integrated into a colour monitor to selectively hit various coloured phosphors on a computer screen. Basically, I really don't want to go into this anymore, because again, computer monitors are NOT my expertise.
So, as you can see, I've proven CRTs are purely analog, and therefore can display an infinite range of colour (disproving your bit-based theory of CRT colour).
Now to disprove your bit-based theory of LCDs.
LCDs are far more simple than CRTs. A fluid inside an LCD can be polarized at various angles with an applied voltage. The voltage directly controls the angle, and is completely analog. A polarized lense is placed either behind or infront of the LCD. A standard LCD (such as the one in a digital watch) has a mirror behind it which light bounces from when it strikes the LCD.
When a 90 degree twist is applied to the LCD is causes the display to be totally black, because it is a completely perpendicular angle to the polarized glass in front or behind it. If enough voltage to cause a 39.37837 degree twist to be placed on the LCD element, it will show up as a shade of grey, and that shade of grey is different than one at 39.28374 degrees.
When a Red, Green, and Blue colour filter is applied to these elements, you get a colour display, at the cost of requiring three times as many pixels. The display is still analog, and can display an infinite amount of colours, only limited by the controller attached to it.
Slashdot Mirror
>McDonald's is jsut cutting edge for serving coffee 40 degrees hotter than your home machine can make it.
Look, either way she'd be hurt rather badly.
I just wish the coffee contained acid -- that way this dumb idiot would be part of the Darwin Awards and she wouldn't have seen a dime (dead witnesses don't talk).
Seriously, though, it doesn't matter how bad the damage is, if you do something clearly unintended and dangerous with a product, YOU ARE STILL AN IDIOT.
Sheesh, next thing you know someone will sue a rat poison company because it fell and got mixed in with the veal, causing the person eating the veal to go blind due to the abnormally high concentration of POISON in the rat poison on his veal.
Oh, look, I spilled HOT coffee on my lap and today it is ABNORMALLY hot coffee, so I think I'll sue.
I'm just waiting for a now deaf person to sue the manufacturer of their stereo for making it abnormally LOUD.
But, as I'm not a coffee connoisseur, maybe the point of coffee is to drink it lukewarm? Only avid coffee drinkers can attest.
I am a bit of a stereo connoisseur, though, and part of the point of a stereo is to have as much headroom as possible to help ensure the best dynamic range and quality. I guess you just can't compare coffee, rat poison, and stereos, though.
Hmmm... it took just over 5 years for MS-DOS to get a virus.
Since it seems Linux is following that curve, give it a few months. Not that it'll spread far past the lab, though.
>not all countries work this way, eh?
:-)
But Canada does operate this way, eh?
Be more careful when you want to pretend you're outside the Americas next time.
>It was too late to scrape it off so I just let it burn away by running it without a heatsing for a while and the smell went. I DO NOT RECOMEND THIS!!!
Neither do I or Tom's Hardware.
It takes 3 seconds to set an Athlon on fire.
Don't do this folks. Just _very_ carefully scrape it away if you screw up like this instead...
Two important things to do before following that advice:
:-D
- Remove the battery from the motherboard prior to insertion.
- Be sure you buy pure rubbing alcohol. The 70% USP stuff at the Drugstore/Chemists is not what you want for this job.
Bonus:
- The motherboard will stink like polysporin for a while instead...
>C'mon people, why build something as excessive as a digital picture frame out of something somebody else could actually use.
I think he could use the electricity to power the TRS-80 hunk of power-wasting junk first. Just a thought...
Hmmm... interesting advice.
I think I'll tell Ford Pinto owners that they should just invest in some automatic fire extinguishers.
First, the drums wear out FAR too fast for a high-capacity drum (10k pages? Pffft... I've seen single use drums that can do more).
:-) Not that I'd turn in any work printed from it though (UGH).
Two, they have a forced drum change counter.
Three, their drums are AMAZINGLY overpriced ($200 US for a drum for a printer they sold for $150 US? STUFF THAT).
Fourth, resetting the drums is a PITA. You have a cut up a home-made transparent reset sheet. Even then, all that gets you is crappy output anyways, since the drum really is worn out at that point.
When you buy a Brother, you're buying a 10k page investment.
Of course, as a tech I shouldn't hate them that much. I'm already enjoying a free, working perfectly, needed a drum reset page printer right now.
But I do like the 9-pin dot-matrix emulation, though. Heh...
>Used Printers? You get what you pay for.
:-) Best part is I sold one of the fixed printers for the price of all the broken ones put together (and I've had no callbacks).
Yeah, if you know what you're doing, yet get 2 or 3 at a 90% discount (not working, but still turning on, for example) and repair the things. Most smaller printers aren't that hard to tear apart and fix up.
I did the above and made one LJ II and one LJ II.5 with the guts of two LJ IIs and one LJ III. One had a completely destroyed fuser, another a dead pickup roller, and another had a near-dead AC power supply. Fixing them was like playing with lego.
Plus, people who don't know much about a printer and just want to get rid of a broken one leave in nice "options" like 4MB memory cards, $200 LJ II/III jetdirect cards and such.
I'd never, EVER, buy a new printer again. I get about 4000 (probably way more -- just my guess from what I printed before I replaced the (already partially used) cartridge) pages on a refurbished (but still top notch looking) drum/toner cart. for just $25 US. Just try that with a printer made in the past 5 years...
>Those have to pass QC at the factory
In my experience this means nothing. I think HP has blind slave-workers doing their QC.
>So you bought 25 corporate copies of XP, but you're going to use a key you got off the net for all of them?
Yeah, why not?
In a large company there's many screwups that can cause the windows installer tech to not have the serials that came with the CDs (they came with the computer, for example, and now the hardware department has ahold of them and you only have one machine and one bare windows CD to install from -- it's happened to me). So you go on the net, get a serial number, and install rather than go through trying to contact the other department (it only takes about 10 seconds of surfing to get a generic CD Key).
If you use ghost (like 100% of all companies I've either worked with or seen in operation [even ones with just 2 computers]) then all the installs will have the same serial and *boom*, you're screwed.
Oh well...
>Using your analogy, the CIA's advisor would be a rabid muslim fanatic, pushing to convert the entire world to Islam from within the government
If you can keep the guy under control, this would be more valuable to the government than a true sympathiser.
>So you have 25 workstations running a pirated copy of Win XP and MS is supposed to care that you wont be installing SP1
Who says its pirated?
There's nothing illegal with buying 25 corporate copies of XP and using any key you can get your hands on (makes it easier for ghosting, for example). If it were, Master Lock would be after me for picking my way into my locked filing cabinet for which I have no key...
>I know what *i'd* choose...
Nuclear power, of course...
Ooooh, oooh, let me try:
q1 = (!(x1 & y1));
q2 = (!(x2 & y2));
q3 = (!(x3 & y3));
q4 = (!(x1 & y1));
"By George, I think he's got it!"
Easy fix, that, IIRC, my old ISP applied.
:-)
The RBL was optional (beats me how it was configured). By default your account is spam-blocked, but if you want to change that, a quick call to customer service and the problem is reversed.
My bets are that after 2 or 3 weeks of switching back accounts you'd be down to a call a week about it. No biggie. And the 95% of customers who didn't call are happier, and can show their friends their spam-free email account (and, whoopie, you just got another customer).
See? We can all live in peace and harmony!
>Lets (wildly) assume that your company has to pay 15 cents per megabyte of traffic through their ISP. .15 * 976 = $146.40.
Well, in that case, stop running your company from a boat. The only thing I know of that costs $0.15 a meg is satellite internet...
I'm being a little to helpful here, aren't I? :-)
>... I'm glad I'm using something so obselete that not only does it not need a patch, you couldn't apply one to it to begin with.
Don't you wish...
>So, if you were passing your courses "handily", why did you fail out?
:-(
I only passed the digital courses "handily".
>Also, I must assume that EET means electrical engineering technician, which isn't even a real electrical engineer.
Well, assume makes an ass out of you. But not me this time -- EET is Electrical Engineering Technologist, which is a combination of the lower end EE math and higher end technician work. I wasn't interested in just sitting in front of a computer designing crap 24/7, and I wasn't just interested in soldering 24/7. Technologist gives a good balance between the two. Lots of troubleshooting via redesigning circuits (rather than just finding the fault and letting the EE know about it).
>An EET is like an EE who never took any math courses and doesn't really understand what's going on.
Nope. Double wrong. But if you want to live in that dreamworld, that's fine by me.
>But, if you failed out of some 2-year EET school (DeVrye?), I feel sorry for you.
No, its a three year program -- soon to be acknowledged as a Polytechnic program (about time too).
You are wrong about a great many things. It's a little sad, actually.
>Anyway, that's what I learned. But, again, since I never took an EE course, I'm probably wrong.
No, you're not too far off, and I did say I flunked out, and there's good reason for that.
It's really not been my week. But I'll make up for my paragrah of less-than-prime information by providing a page of real information!
Anyways, unfortunately, since I haven't had a lot of real-world LCD experience, I can only tell you this -- LCDs are probably AC PWM (or duty cycle modulated) because LCDs last longer under an AC charge, and it is just easier to use PWM rather than a direct change in AC voltage due to the minute changes in AC voltage required to change contrast in an LCD without using PWM.
[Not that you can't change an AC voltage, of course...]
Basically you can either design a really stable circuit that can control the small amount of voltage change necessary to keep the LCD in its middle state, or you can fake it by turning it fully on and fully off fast enough that it appears grey. PWM is used all the time to save a few bucks, and there's no problem with it, except that you trade the effort involved in making a good circuit with the effort involved in finding the "magic numbers" that keep the LCD in the grey zone.
>i took the rca outputs from my turntables and got a rca to 1/8th of an inch (the walkman sized headphone plug) converter and stuck that into the line in on my soundcard (a SB Live) then i fired up goldwave and set it to record the input and recorded it at the highest level possible.
Uh, just a *big* suggestion here -- you really must use an RIAA-curve biased phono preamp between the record player and the computer's line in (maybe you did that and I didn't notice -- sorry).
That way it'll sound like it should (less bright, for instance) and you won't need to jack up the input to full.
You might want to re-rip those albums anyways. The XING encoder (click on Analysis) has a serious bug that limits much of any kind of serious quality increase past 128 kbps mp3.
That's it. Slashdot screwed up again, and I just don't feel like writing my comment again.
[PSA mode on]
So I'll keep it short: Kids who just read the above comment, remember, just because the shock doesn't kill you doesn't mean the soldering iron you get thrown on top of won't. Always talk to a TV repair guy (or someone else with experience) before you open up your TV.
[PSA mode off]
>How can you be ripped off if the company offers to buy the damn thing back from you if you don't like it?
:)
;)
Cause they wasted my time should I have bought it and now I have to waste more time returning it?
But hey, if they will pay the entire purchase price, I'd call it even by simply not buying misadvertised Palm produts (ie: Never again).
Fortunately I don't own a Palm. I hate stylus based entry methods.
But my mind might change on that when I see all sorts of super-cheap refurbished m130s on the market.
Okay, I know quite a bit about how LCDs and CRTs use separate colour pixes and simulate the real colour.
:-)
I learned a LOT about the lies of LCD resolutions when I was shopping for a VR/Television headset (that I never bought because _no one_ had them for show in the Kitchener-Waterloo area, except for a barely pre-beta-production pair at the Sony shop that were priced exorbitantly).
Non-consumer LCD specs are rated at their monochrome specifications, that is to say they are rated at 3x their resolution with no colour guarantees (because that's the job of the controller, not the LCD).
Consumer LCD specs are rated at their full colour specifications whenever they mention "colours" in the same line. For example, "Displays 160x160 resolution at 16-bit colour". However, if colours are *not* listed on the same line, its fair game to say its a 480x180 pixel display, _but_ on a fully fledged consumer device one would have to back that up with OS support for a fake monochome display using the separate colour pixels (which Palm does _not_ have).
Now, as far as raw CRTs and raw LCDs actually having bit depths associated with them, this is false. As the raw pixels on LCDs and the minimum size points formed by the shadow mask CRTs are purely analog in nature, you cannot state a bit depth for them. You are only limited by what the controller can do for an LCD, and with a CRT you are unlimited (unless the designer of the controller was on LSD at the time).
Anyways, since you seem so interested in learning how all this works (as you asked me to look it up for you, but I don't need to, since I learned all this in the few EET courses I passed handily) I'll explain why all this is to you. What a nice guy I am, huh?
Okay, lets start with CRTs. These are complicated little beasties when you get into colour, so lets start with monochrome.
The tube you are looking at right now is evacuated of all air. In the rear of it is a heating element, which causes a material in front of it to emit electrons. The amount of electrons emitted is controlled by a control grid in front of this material. This is what allows us to control the intensity, or brightness of the beam. This is controlled through voltage, and therefore is completely analog unless you choose to hook it up to a digital controller. After the beam is attenuated by the control grid, it then passes by "yokes", or electromagnetic coils in a standard CRT, or for an oscilloscope CRT, these are deflection plates. In either case, a voltage is applied to these. A higher voltage moves the electon beam away from that yoke/plate, however a lower voltage does not move it closer (this is why a TV requires at least a 4-way yoke, or 4 deflection plates). Moving the beam causes a spot on the phospor covered, lead impregnated part of the screen you see to light up (it actually excites the phosphor and causes it to emit light waves and x-rays rather than electrons). X-Rays (which are mostly of the soft form anyways) are curtailed by the lead, and the lead is grouned to remove the resulting electrical charge caused by all this electronic conversion away from the screen. Not to mention it keeps the EXTREMELY high voltage used called the "screen" from killing you. Beats me what this was about, nobody ever explained it (could that just be part of why I failed out of EET?
Now we can see if this beam is moved about the screen it will create points of light all over. P22 phospor (which is what is used in starndard computer monitors) does not instantly stop emitting light when charged and, knowing this, we can use it to our advantage and move the beam quickly enough about the screen to keep the entire screen bright.
Now, modulating the yoke and control grid we can produce a picture. NTSC combines all this into one signal (bad). Fortunately, VGA does not, and is still completely analog (and could display google bit colour, if you so desired). VGA uses separate vertical and horizontal deflection signals, and also has separate voltage controls for the different colours red, green and blue (which we're about to get to).
A shadow mask placed behind the phospor on a screen allows the three beams integrated into a colour monitor to selectively hit various coloured phosphors on a computer screen. Basically, I really don't want to go into this anymore, because again, computer monitors are NOT my expertise.
So, as you can see, I've proven CRTs are purely analog, and therefore can display an infinite range of colour (disproving your bit-based theory of CRT colour).
Now to disprove your bit-based theory of LCDs.
LCDs are far more simple than CRTs. A fluid inside an LCD can be polarized at various angles with an applied voltage. The voltage directly controls the angle, and is completely analog. A polarized lense is placed either behind or infront of the LCD. A standard LCD (such as the one in a digital watch) has a mirror behind it which light bounces from when it strikes the LCD.
When a 90 degree twist is applied to the LCD is causes the display to be totally black, because it is a completely perpendicular angle to the polarized glass in front or behind it. If enough voltage to cause a 39.37837 degree twist to be placed on the LCD element, it will show up as a shade of grey, and that shade of grey is different than one at 39.28374 degrees.
When a Red, Green, and Blue colour filter is applied to these elements, you get a colour display, at the cost of requiring three times as many pixels. The display is still analog, and can display an infinite amount of colours, only limited by the controller attached to it.
HTH!
I understand buying a RAID card and another identical drive, but what's the mirror for? Reading those pooly positioned jumper instructions? ;-)