Those will generally wake everyone currently occupying the bed.. and will wake up everyone in a nearby bedroom.
The OP could try one of the travel alarms though, as they don't have as large of a vibrator unit. I don't know of one offhand that has a telephone input though. My alarm clock has a standard RJ11 plug that I can connect and when the phone rings the shaker will go activate...
sometimes you can't run dban on the drive because of media damage or head damage. I have two boxes(used to be 10 reams of paper in each box, so it's a fair size) full of hard drives that I haven't gotten around to destroying yet.
Be very careful if you are doing the bend, drill or sand method of ruining the platters.. Laptop drives are usually glass.. shards will go all over, including into your hands.
I remember reading not too long ago about using infrared light to stimulate the hair cells or nerves in the ear.. it was thought that using an infrared laser could work better than the current electrode method of a Cochlear Implant.
Better efficiency on your new unit, and it's quite likely someone actually did a heat-loss calculation and calculated the proper size.
30 years ago, if you really needed 60,000 btu, they'd take a wild guess that you really need a 100,000 and tack on a 20% fudge factor, giving you a 120,000.. or the homeowner would complain their old unit wasn't cooling the house effectively, and then upgrade from there.. or just replace with the same unit you had before.
With modern houses it's much easier to figure out the most efficient size.
My local theatre can barely keep their 2d RWC unit running (it's frequently down for weeks on end), I suspect it'll be many years, if ever, before they get something compatible with 3d.
The evil part was Blockbuster versions of DVD's... which had the special features removed.
The REALLY evil part was that they considered subtitles and captions to be special features.. Rented quite a few dvd's to find out that despite what the box said, there was no captions.
there was a machine up at toronto's D&B that we almost completely cleaned out.. the one where the pushrod goes into the round tube to either push a prize or a "xxx tickets".
We were playing for awhile and someone realized that when you won the 250 tickets thing, instead of removing one play, it would add 3.
Combined with the fact the machine would lose track of where the home was and would keep resetting upwards closer and closer to the 250 button, it became trivial to hit that dozens of times in a row.. and when the machine would track too high to hit the button, just use up a play to send it all the way up to the top and hold that for a bit till time ran out.. it would reset and start from the bottom again.
I think I ended up with something like 15,000 tickets before we had to go home.
I wear a set of Siemens Centra SP's BTE's (http://hearing.siemens.com/uk/04-products/11-centra/02-instruments-features/instruments-features.jsp#bte).. Cost in Canada per ear:
~2400 for the hearing aid ~675 for fitting (mandated by the gov't) ~80 for the hearing aid mold ~1000 for the extra two years warranty
Total is about 7k for both ears.. The Ontario gov't pays for $500 per ear, so cost to me was 6000. It's my understanding the hearing aid cost in Ontario is set at the cost of the device by the govt, and the fitting agency makes the money on the fitting and warranties.
Ontario gov't will fully pay for a single cochlear implant should I wish to go ahead with it, I've already been approved.. At this point my hearing is still mostly better than a CI would give me (www.compwizrd.com/hearingtest), but should that change I might go ahead with it.
A decent digital hearing aid is much more than just an equalizer.
Mine shifts the higher frequencies down into lower frequencies, and leaves the lower ones alone.. I hear better in the lower frequencies, and almost nothing in upper frequencies, so the hearing aid is programmed to work with that.. if i couldn't hear lower frequencies, but could hear higher, then it should shift everything upwards.
It also amplifies differently according to what the input is.. soft sounds get amplified more, louder very little.. makes it hard to tell exactly how loud something really is, but deals with what i can hear.
Also has wind noise cancelling, feedback cancel, sharp noise reduction(sharp noises get smoothed out so they don't clash).. dual microphones.. it listens behind and ahead of me, and whatever is behind, is subtracted from what's in front, so that i don't hear background noise. telecoil link, remote control.. battery that lasts about 3 weeks.
Slashdot Mirror
My guess is picture 3 is the aftermath of the smoke generator you can see is running in picture 1.
Sure.
http://www.amazon.com/Sonic-Alert-SBT425ss-Vibrating-Telephone/dp/B000EX5HXS
not sure why the analog one came up, but I have one of these units.
Those will generally wake everyone currently occupying the bed.. and will wake up everyone in a nearby bedroom.
The OP could try one of the travel alarms though, as they don't have as large of a vibrator unit. I don't know of one offhand that has a telephone input though. My alarm clock has a standard RJ11 plug that I can connect and when the phone rings the shaker will go activate...
If i wear a shirt the same colour as the ball and get too close to the robot does it start smacking me instead?
sometimes you can't run dban on the drive because of media damage or head damage. I have two boxes(used to be 10 reams of paper in each box, so it's a fair size) full of hard drives that I haven't gotten around to destroying yet.
Be very careful if you are doing the bend, drill or sand method of ruining the platters.. Laptop drives are usually glass.. shards will go all over, including into your hands.
I remember reading not too long ago about using infrared light to stimulate the hair cells or nerves in the ear.. it was thought that using an infrared laser could work better than the current electrode method of a Cochlear Implant.
Try MD.
Better efficiency on your new unit, and it's quite likely someone actually did a heat-loss calculation and calculated the proper size.
30 years ago, if you really needed 60,000 btu, they'd take a wild guess that you really need a 100,000 and tack on a 20% fudge factor, giving you a 120,000.. or the homeowner would complain their old unit wasn't cooling the house effectively, and then upgrade from there.. or just replace with the same unit you had before.
With modern houses it's much easier to figure out the most efficient size.
My local theatre can barely keep their 2d RWC unit running (it's frequently down for weeks on end), I suspect it'll be many years, if ever, before they get something compatible with 3d.
I should clarify, I was thinking of close captioning as in the rear window captions used in theaters. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rear_Window_Captioning_System
Lack of closed caption support doesn't help either.
Please see: http://www.amazon.com/Aftermath-LeVar-Burton/dp/0446519936
The evil part was Blockbuster versions of DVD's... which had the special features removed.
The REALLY evil part was that they considered subtitles and captions to be special features.. Rented quite a few dvd's to find out that despite what the box said, there was no captions.
At least they generally refunded any rental fees.
You've got some redundancy in your list there!
there was a machine up at toronto's D&B that we almost completely cleaned out.. the one where the pushrod goes into the round tube to either push a prize or a "xxx tickets".
We were playing for awhile and someone realized that when you won the 250 tickets thing, instead of removing one play, it would add 3.
Combined with the fact the machine would lose track of where the home was and would keep resetting upwards closer and closer to the 250 button, it became trivial to hit that dozens of times in a row.. and when the machine would track too high to hit the button, just use up a play to send it all the way up to the top and hold that for a bit till time ran out.. it would reset and start from the bottom again.
I think I ended up with something like 15,000 tickets before we had to go home.
I wear a set of Siemens Centra SP's BTE's (http://hearing.siemens.com/uk/04-products/11-centra/02-instruments-features/instruments-features.jsp#bte) .. Cost in Canada per ear:
~2400 for the hearing aid
~675 for fitting (mandated by the gov't)
~80 for the hearing aid mold
~1000 for the extra two years warranty
Total is about 7k for both ears.. The Ontario gov't pays for $500 per ear, so cost to me was 6000. It's my understanding the hearing aid cost in Ontario is set at the cost of the device by the govt, and the fitting agency makes the money on the fitting and warranties.
Ontario gov't will fully pay for a single cochlear implant should I wish to go ahead with it, I've already been approved.. At this point my hearing is still mostly better than a CI would give me (www.compwizrd.com/hearingtest), but should that change I might go ahead with it.
A decent digital hearing aid is much more than just an equalizer.
Mine shifts the higher frequencies down into lower frequencies, and leaves the lower ones alone.. I hear better in the lower frequencies, and almost nothing in upper frequencies, so the hearing aid is programmed to work with that.. if i couldn't hear lower frequencies, but could hear higher, then it should shift everything upwards.
It also amplifies differently according to what the input is.. soft sounds get amplified more, louder very little.. makes it hard to tell exactly how loud something really is, but deals with what i can hear.
Also has wind noise cancelling, feedback cancel, sharp noise reduction(sharp noises get smoothed out so they don't clash).. dual microphones.. it listens behind and ahead of me, and whatever is behind, is subtracted from what's in front, so that i don't hear background noise. telecoil link, remote control.. battery that lasts about 3 weeks.
And they can damage cochlear implants:
http://www.hearinglossweb.com/tech/ci/kids/static.htm
Any higher end options than the X1550 in PCI? Have a P4-2.8 on a Supermicro P4SCA, and need the 2 ISA slots(yes, a p4 with ISA!) for a CMM system.
I see there's Socket 775 boards available now, with PCI-E and ISA, http://www.ibasetechnology.net/mb886.html, but i need two ISA slots... nice board otherwise.
ibase also sells some with two isa slots, but they're pentium 4 only, no c2d.
False.
Any decent tester will be able to tell you which end you fubar'd though..
Does this work on a http://www.zug.com/pranks/powerbook/?
cable uses QAM, OTA uses ATSC/NTSC
Yeah, if I'm roaming in the US, my provider charges me 8 dollars a meg for traffic.
My regular plan includes 25 meg a month, believe it's 8 dollars a meg over that as well.
My crackberry 7520 is about a third the speed of dialup, with much higher latency..
can't picture using this as a modem.
I had 4 wisdom teeth taken out when I was 17.
Luckily for me, two more grew in almost 10 years later...