Yep, that's the Panduit stuff. There's other brands of it, too, but that's the one I'm most familiar with. I would be unsurprised if other "Duct Seal" products were exactly the same.
And that's the correct Coax Seal. It does a somewhat better job than duct seal at sticking to jackets, but it tends to cost more and I can't get it locally (unlike Panduit stuff), so I use it more sparingly.
No idea on a link for butyl rubber -- I got a good amount of it from a DirecTV installer several years ago when he cleaned out his truck on his last day of work and haven't needed more.;)
The tubing you found looks fine (and US Plastics is just down the road from me, though please be aware that the company is owned by God).
But if it were me and I wanted to wrap it in some manner of tube I'd just use 1/2" flexible nonmetallic PVC conduit. It's normally sold as "Sealtite," and you can buy it by the foot at just about any hardware/electrical/home store.
It's grey, and it does slowly rot despite being specified for outdoor use, but it's one of those things where the thickness of the material is such that it probably doesn't matter in our lifetimes. And it's UL listed for such applications, so if your house ever burns down the insurance guy can't point at it and go "See what you've done! NOW YOU'RE HOMELESS!"
Besides, you can always paint it...for that matter, you can paint the bare jacket with outdoor latex paint and keep much of the UV out and probably prolong its existence quite long enough.
Or (cheapest, perhaps even easiest and best): Since you don't have much length to bother with just give it two wraps of black 3M Super 33+ electrical tape and call it a day. It's the correct material for protecting outdoor aerial splices that are done with cohesive rubber tape, and is the final layer supplied with many underground telco splice kits, and it does not rot (ever, as far as I can tell) in sunlight..
(Why two wraps? Dunno. But IIRC 3M's instructions say to use two wraps, in opposite directions, oriented so that the final wrap tends to shed water instead of collect it...)
Siliconized caulk only sticks well to clean, dry surfaces. And because it cures (and/or dries, depending on the exact nature of the particular product), it has little tolerance for being disturbed: Once an outside force peels it free, it cannot ever be pushed back into place with any semblance of a seal.
It's also a pain to deal with: It tends to ruin cloth, it cures in the tube, it sticks to tools, it sucks to get it on your hands, etc. And when it does adhere well long-term, it's a shitty job to try to remove it.
I like Panduit's incarnation of Duct Seal for most penetrations. It doesn't cure or dry, and can be worked back into shape years later if an outside force requires it. I also use Coax Seal for some stuff, and sometimes butyl rubber in a moldable sheet form (as sold to the satellite TV industry for roof penetrations).
But RTV silicone? I use that in exactly one wiring application: Penetrations through the roofs of new cop cars. And the only reason I use it there is because of its chemical resistance, and because I have new surfaces to work with, and because Permatex sells it in black. (If any of these variables were different, I'd be using something else.)
As to PVC conduit: I shouldn't have to say this, but a schedule 40 pipe is a good bit thicker than the average cable jacket. And it does degrade as the outside of it tends to turn powdery and white. So why is it grey instead of black? I'd guess for the same reason that buried plastic natural gas line is orange: It has always been done that way, and so it continues to be done that way.
Water can travel -through- cables. And as reported by OP, this is exactly what happened. I, myself, cast no doubt upon his observations.
A drip loop does not, and cannot, prevent the transfer of fluid inside of a cable jacket by wicking, capillary action, or by dissimilar temperatures and pressures.
A drip loop is formed to shed water that is external to the cable jacket: Water traveling along the outside of the jacket tends to fall off, due to gravity, upon encountering a drip loop. In a perfect world, it works fine.
But gravity does not keep a candle from burning, nor does it prevent you from swallowing while upside-down. (Also: Heat pipes, and so on.)
Once the water is inside of the cable jacket (because it is cracked and split), it can do other things that neither a drip loop (nor caulk; WTF?) can prevent.
(In other news: The underground conduit is full of water. It is flooded simply because it eventually must be unless extraordinary measures are taken. It doesn't matter which conduit it is; it's safer to assume that it is full of water than to assume otherwise, despite the best intentions and practices...which is also why direct-burial cable tends to be flooded with mineral oil that displaces air, such that the air cannot be displaced by water because it does not exist.)
Yes, my rates have gone up (though not appreciably) with AT&T over the past few years.
But having folks rely on one single point of failure in a system of this scale is a problem that is easily and cheaply corrected, and this is something that should be well-known within companies such as AT&T whose whole business model has always revolved around providing and maintaining reliable infrastructure.
(And by "cheap," I mean a few thousand dollars in hardware and a crew to implement and test it. Total expense: Far less than a singular VRAD cabinet that can only serve a few hundred customers. Servicing DHCP requests against a database is not exactly the most demanding thing in the world, and there's no reason (especially money!) to support having such a failure point.)
My home system is from 2008 also, and sports a pair of 9800GTs.
I've gone through many of the same thought processes as you, and come to many of the same conclusions.
Here's what I've gleaned:
1. A five-year-old video card (or a pair of them) should be trivially-cheap to replace with an efficient and modern equivalent, but it's not.
2. The prettiest games I want to play today bog my Q6600 CPU more than my video cards, which just loaf along on such titles.
3. I need more RAM. 4GB isn't enough and DDR2 is fucking expensive. A motherboard+CPU sidegrade is damn near free with 2x4GB DDR3, compared to 2x4GB of DDR2 by itself. And getting a significantly faster CPU at the same time isn't significantly more expensive.
4. Integrated graphics, no matter the claims by people who say they're quite good enough, suck in comparison to even quite old dedicated hardware.
5. Conclusion: To upgrade my 5-year-old gaming rig piecemeal, keep the GPU(s), replace everything else, and ignore integrated graphics.
I am not down on the WRT54G, it just can't handle the traffic load in 2013. Even after loading DD-WRT, it and it still couldn't keep up with the incoming 30Mbps connection. I still have it as a backup, but it is not streaming capable.
I thought I was nearing the edge of useability on a WRT54GL with a 12Mbps connection: Load average when doing lots of stuff (ie: torrents and streaming) was 0.8. It seemed to be holding on quite well enough, though, so I ignored it for a long time.
Eventually I dug into the settings (in TomatoUSB in my case, but whatever) and discovered that it was logging details about -every- -single- -connection- and storing that log in flash.
So, I turned that feature off. Load average went down to less than 0.1 with QoS and all the bells and whistles going, just no logging. I have no doubt that the box would've dealt with 30Mbps of traffic just fine in that configuration, though I can confidently predict that it would have shit itself with 30Mbps and logging enabled.
It's been ages since I used DD-WRT on Linksys WRT* hardware, but it's probably got similar functionality that can be turned off. Flash is slow and CPU-intensive on these boxes, and limiting its use might turn your old WRT54G into a useful backup device instead of something whose very existence you will curse if you're ever forced to use it again.
The only time I thought I needed new CPE gear with U-Verse, I had a technician at my house within a couple of hours with a new box. Late. On a Saturday.
And then it turned out to be a cabling issue a few hundred feet out, which he fixed.
Having spare gear on-hand is nice and all, but if it means having 6Mbit DSL instead of 12 or 18Mbit VDSL, I'll take the latter.
And if it breaks for some reason, I can always tether my phone, or use "Linksys" or "NETGEAR" in the interim.
That was a couple years ago, I guess I should shop around again to see what's out there, but so far, service and uptime has been quite good!! Even after hurricane Issac, when I get home from evac, it was up and running just fine.
Indeed. We had a quite bad storm back in June and were without power for a week (and we were lucky to get it back so soon), but U-Verse never skipped a beat. They rolled in a swarm of generators to keep their VRAD boxes going.
When the technician ran the original wire (Which went outside of their house), he didn't use outdoor rated cable. After about a year in the sun, it had developed little cracks in the cable jacket, and capillary action was running water from the cracks all the way to the switch.
It may not have been the installer's fault. I've seen "outdoor rated" cable fail similarly: I have behind me a multi-$k box which was ruined by some allegedly high-quality, white-jacketed Belden RG6 with "Outdoor" printed on the jacket. After a couple of years of exposure on a rooftop, the jacket turned brittle, cracked, and started turning into dust.
Which was, you know, pretty surprising to find: I have the rational expectation that when I pay extra for wire that says Belden on it that it will perform as advertised.
(Lesson learned: Always use black wire outdoors, as the pigmentation alone helps stop UV from reaching so deep, so quickly.)
Cox used to have DHCP issues. I just ran ipconfig, got the info from my old IP and typed it in as a static IP. Problem solved
Clever, but can't work with U-Verse: The supplied "Home Gateway" (VDSL modem and router combo-box) is sufficiently locked-down to preclude any such tinkering. The WAN address (and gateway, and, and, and) comes from DHCP, period, address if there is no DHCP response then it defaults to 0.0.0.0.
In this state it cannot route packets, since it has no valid default route, and it stays broken until DHCP gets un-borked.
Furthermore, the only modems that work with U-Verse are those supplied by AT&T, so there's no chance of using third-party gear to work around the issue.
(That all said: What the fuck, AT&T? 15 states all relying on one box? I've been bitched out here on Slashdot for running a singular mail server with no diverse redundancy for a small company, while you've got fuckloads of paying customers relying on one machine?)
I think it comes from the fact that just about _everything_ uses compression now, by default.
By default: My network doesn't use compression and my disks don't use compression. My audio recording rig doesn't use compression. The action of the "Submit" button under this form does not use compression. Nor does a document saved in OOXML. Not does BitTorrent. Et cetera.
Oh, wait. I guess you meant "just about _everything_" as in "audio, video, or graphical media that has been prepped for efficient digital storage and/or transport for eventual consumption by humans".
Perhaps your world is just more limited, but that's a pretty small subset of the "_everything_" that exists in my world.
When was the last time you watched a video that was not compressed? I'll give you a hint... it's probably never.
I'll give you a hint: At least as recently as June 12, 2009.
Indeed, come to think of it, it was much more recent: I watched some video that was not compressed just a few weeks ago, a Laserdisc edition of Blade Runner.
Lossy compression is pretty sub-optimal if you're compressing anything that has to run.
I guess you meant "sub-optimal" as in "ridiculously fucking broken in ways that would be impossible to mend were anyone foolhardy enough to actually try to do that."
So what were you going on about again? Oh yeah, you're confused about what "compression" means.
Except for yourself and Bruce Perens, I think we've all got that word figured out pretty well.
(Oh, and also: GIFs are not necessarily lossless in application. Do yourself a favor and think about that for a bit before you tell me that I'm wrong.)
I speak from experience here, I once woke up to find someone rummaging around in my young daughters toy bag - which looked like a handbag. I came close to throttling the guy. He claimed to be looking for cigarettes.
Finish the fucking story man! What happened? What about the glands?
Maybe not where you're from. Where I'm at we have more water than we can deal with most years (yet another flood just last week, with no proper drought in something like 25 years), and arable land is relatively cheap.
It costs something to move that water around, store it, and use it, for sure, but that's an easily identifiable expense.
(And as to the "omg we're going to run out of water!!!" argument, I don't buy it. Never have, never will -- please don't waste the effort.)
Correction: A lot of big oil companies are interested in making money hand-over-fist, whether that be with oil or something else entirely (as are many other companies, many of which lack the financial resources of big oil companies).
"Look! You only need 20kWh of electricity, 1m**3 of water, 2m**2 of land and 3 liters of fertilizer to get 1 liter of biofuel. We will revolutionize the world in 10 years!"
People complain all the time about low efficiency of PV Panels, but they're still 5 times better than photosynthesis.
But water can be free. Land can be cheap or free. Fertilizer can be produced locally (animals, legumes). And if electricity is a concern, you can use your self-blessed photovoltaics to produce it.
Seriously. I'm all for an informative discussion of total system efficiency, but jerking one's knee isn't the right way to get there -- let alone bold claims of photosynthesis being 5 times worse than photovoltaics.
I think you're saying that all US citizens should have the right to own their own battleships/ stealth bombers / personal nuclear weapons if they so choose...
I'm OK with that. Why aren't you?
(I also would like some AA guns for the roof of my house.)
I have a touchscreen on my desk. After the novelty wore off, I unplugged that part of it and left it that way (it is otherwise a very fine 1600x1200 IPS display).
I now have a reason to plug it back into something. Thanks!
I was going to attempt to craft a meaningful reply, but then I realize that there would be no point: One cannot convince a paper engineer of anything while they're waving their dick^H^Hploma around.
...because the market buys cheap, horrible displays, so that's what it supplies.
It's not a new problem; it goes waaay back.
I find it hard to generalize TN panels like that. I've seen some that are quite horrible, and some that are quite OK, and neither age not manufacturing date seems to have much to do with how it actually looks in normal use.
That said, you can have my IPS-paneled NEC 2090UXi when you pry it from my cold, dead hands.
Chances are your PCI-E or memory buses will crap themselves due to interference long before one of your motherboard components radiates enough EM to actually affect something outside of the device.
I've observed that my machines run glitch-free for years at a stretch with the side panels off while I can't get a broadcast AM receiver to work anywhere inside of my house with the computers running, with FM being almost as bad.
Because computers don't radiate enough of anything to affect something outside of the device, I must have been imagining this repeatably-demonstrable phenomenon for the past couple of decades.
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Yep, that's the Panduit stuff. There's other brands of it, too, but that's the one I'm most familiar with. I would be unsurprised if other "Duct Seal" products were exactly the same.
And that's the correct Coax Seal. It does a somewhat better job than duct seal at sticking to jackets, but it tends to cost more and I can't get it locally (unlike Panduit stuff), so I use it more sparingly.
No idea on a link for butyl rubber -- I got a good amount of it from a DirecTV installer several years ago when he cleaned out his truck on his last day of work and haven't needed more. ;)
The tubing you found looks fine (and US Plastics is just down the road from me, though please be aware that the company is owned by God).
But if it were me and I wanted to wrap it in some manner of tube I'd just use 1/2" flexible nonmetallic PVC conduit. It's normally sold as "Sealtite," and you can buy it by the foot at just about any hardware/electrical/home store.
It's grey, and it does slowly rot despite being specified for outdoor use, but it's one of those things where the thickness of the material is such that it probably doesn't matter in our lifetimes. And it's UL listed for such applications, so if your house ever burns down the insurance guy can't point at it and go "See what you've done! NOW YOU'RE HOMELESS!"
Besides, you can always paint it...for that matter, you can paint the bare jacket with outdoor latex paint and keep much of the UV out and probably prolong its existence quite long enough.
Or (cheapest, perhaps even easiest and best): Since you don't have much length to bother with just give it two wraps of black 3M Super 33+ electrical tape and call it a day. It's the correct material for protecting outdoor aerial splices that are done with cohesive rubber tape, and is the final layer supplied with many underground telco splice kits, and it does not rot (ever, as far as I can tell) in sunlight..
(Why two wraps? Dunno. But IIRC 3M's instructions say to use two wraps, in opposite directions, oriented so that the final wrap tends to shed water instead of collect it...)
Siliconized caulk only sticks well to clean, dry surfaces. And because it cures (and/or dries, depending on the exact nature of the particular product), it has little tolerance for being disturbed: Once an outside force peels it free, it cannot ever be pushed back into place with any semblance of a seal.
It's also a pain to deal with: It tends to ruin cloth, it cures in the tube, it sticks to tools, it sucks to get it on your hands, etc. And when it does adhere well long-term, it's a shitty job to try to remove it.
I like Panduit's incarnation of Duct Seal for most penetrations. It doesn't cure or dry, and can be worked back into shape years later if an outside force requires it. I also use Coax Seal for some stuff, and sometimes butyl rubber in a moldable sheet form (as sold to the satellite TV industry for roof penetrations).
But RTV silicone? I use that in exactly one wiring application: Penetrations through the roofs of new cop cars. And the only reason I use it there is because of its chemical resistance, and because I have new surfaces to work with, and because Permatex sells it in black. (If any of these variables were different, I'd be using something else.)
As to PVC conduit: I shouldn't have to say this, but a schedule 40 pipe is a good bit thicker than the average cable jacket. And it does degrade as the outside of it tends to turn powdery and white. So why is it grey instead of black? I'd guess for the same reason that buried plastic natural gas line is orange: It has always been done that way, and so it continues to be done that way.
It is not a law unless it is signed by the President.
So what?
Not yet. Soon.
Reading comprehension fail.
Water can travel -through- cables. And as reported by OP, this is exactly what happened. I, myself, cast no doubt upon his observations.
A drip loop does not, and cannot, prevent the transfer of fluid inside of a cable jacket by wicking, capillary action, or by dissimilar temperatures and pressures.
A drip loop is formed to shed water that is external to the cable jacket: Water traveling along the outside of the jacket tends to fall off, due to gravity, upon encountering a drip loop. In a perfect world, it works fine.
But gravity does not keep a candle from burning, nor does it prevent you from swallowing while upside-down. (Also: Heat pipes, and so on.)
Once the water is inside of the cable jacket (because it is cracked and split), it can do other things that neither a drip loop (nor caulk; WTF?) can prevent.
(In other news: The underground conduit is full of water. It is flooded simply because it eventually must be unless extraordinary measures are taken. It doesn't matter which conduit it is; it's safer to assume that it is full of water than to assume otherwise, despite the best intentions and practices...which is also why direct-burial cable tends to be flooded with mineral oil that displaces air, such that the air cannot be displaced by water because it does not exist.)
Meh.
Yes, my rates have gone up (though not appreciably) with AT&T over the past few years.
But having folks rely on one single point of failure in a system of this scale is a problem that is easily and cheaply corrected, and this is something that should be well-known within companies such as AT&T whose whole business model has always revolved around providing and maintaining reliable infrastructure.
(And by "cheap," I mean a few thousand dollars in hardware and a crew to implement and test it. Total expense: Far less than a singular VRAD cabinet that can only serve a few hundred customers. Servicing DHCP requests against a database is not exactly the most demanding thing in the world, and there's no reason (especially money!) to support having such a failure point.)
My home system is from 2008 also, and sports a pair of 9800GTs.
I've gone through many of the same thought processes as you, and come to many of the same conclusions.
Here's what I've gleaned:
1. A five-year-old video card (or a pair of them) should be trivially-cheap to replace with an efficient and modern equivalent, but it's not.
2. The prettiest games I want to play today bog my Q6600 CPU more than my video cards, which just loaf along on such titles.
3. I need more RAM. 4GB isn't enough and DDR2 is fucking expensive. A motherboard+CPU sidegrade is damn near free with 2x4GB DDR3, compared to 2x4GB of DDR2 by itself. And getting a significantly faster CPU at the same time isn't significantly more expensive.
4. Integrated graphics, no matter the claims by people who say they're quite good enough, suck in comparison to even quite old dedicated hardware.
5. Conclusion: To upgrade my 5-year-old gaming rig piecemeal, keep the GPU(s), replace everything else, and ignore integrated graphics.
I thought I was nearing the edge of useability on a WRT54GL with a 12Mbps connection: Load average when doing lots of stuff (ie: torrents and streaming) was 0.8. It seemed to be holding on quite well enough, though, so I ignored it for a long time.
Eventually I dug into the settings (in TomatoUSB in my case, but whatever) and discovered that it was logging details about -every- -single- -connection- and storing that log in flash.
So, I turned that feature off. Load average went down to less than 0.1 with QoS and all the bells and whistles going, just no logging. I have no doubt that the box would've dealt with 30Mbps of traffic just fine in that configuration, though I can confidently predict that it would have shit itself with 30Mbps and logging enabled.
It's been ages since I used DD-WRT on Linksys WRT* hardware, but it's probably got similar functionality that can be turned off. Flash is slow and CPU-intensive on these boxes, and limiting its use might turn your old WRT54G into a useful backup device instead of something whose very existence you will curse if you're ever forced to use it again.
The only time I thought I needed new CPE gear with U-Verse, I had a technician at my house within a couple of hours with a new box. Late. On a Saturday.
And then it turned out to be a cabling issue a few hundred feet out, which he fixed.
Having spare gear on-hand is nice and all, but if it means having 6Mbit DSL instead of 12 or 18Mbit VDSL, I'll take the latter.
And if it breaks for some reason, I can always tether my phone, or use "Linksys" or "NETGEAR" in the interim.
*shrug*
Indeed. We had a quite bad storm back in June and were without power for a week (and we were lucky to get it back so soon), but U-Verse never skipped a beat. They rolled in a swarm of generators to keep their VRAD boxes going.
It may not have been the installer's fault. I've seen "outdoor rated" cable fail similarly: I have behind me a multi-$k box which was ruined by some allegedly high-quality, white-jacketed Belden RG6 with "Outdoor" printed on the jacket. After a couple of years of exposure on a rooftop, the jacket turned brittle, cracked, and started turning into dust.
Which was, you know, pretty surprising to find: I have the rational expectation that when I pay extra for wire that says Belden on it that it will perform as advertised.
(Lesson learned: Always use black wire outdoors, as the pigmentation alone helps stop UV from reaching so deep, so quickly.)
Clever, but can't work with U-Verse: The supplied "Home Gateway" (VDSL modem and router combo-box) is sufficiently locked-down to preclude any such tinkering. The WAN address (and gateway, and, and, and) comes from DHCP, period, address if there is no DHCP response then it defaults to 0.0.0.0.
In this state it cannot route packets, since it has no valid default route, and it stays broken until DHCP gets un-borked.
Furthermore, the only modems that work with U-Verse are those supplied by AT&T, so there's no chance of using third-party gear to work around the issue.
(That all said: What the fuck, AT&T? 15 states all relying on one box? I've been bitched out here on Slashdot for running a singular mail server with no diverse redundancy for a small company, while you've got fuckloads of paying customers relying on one machine?)
The answer to your alleged debacle is easy to find: Just follow the money.
Oh, wait: There isn't any money. It's just a hobby.
So please, if you want to contribute to the greater good (however you define that), feel free to do so. Otherwise GTFO and STFU.
*ahem*
The video information on a Laserdisc is always analog. Sometimes, the audio is as well.
So I'm not really sure what you are going on about, at least in the context of what you quoted.
By default: My network doesn't use compression and my disks don't use compression. My audio recording rig doesn't use compression. The action of the "Submit" button under this form does not use compression. Nor does a document saved in OOXML. Not does BitTorrent. Et cetera.
Oh, wait. I guess you meant "just about _everything_" as in "audio, video, or graphical media that has been prepped for efficient digital storage and/or transport for eventual consumption by humans".
Perhaps your world is just more limited, but that's a pretty small subset of the "_everything_" that exists in my world.
I'll give you a hint: At least as recently as June 12, 2009.
Indeed, come to think of it, it was much more recent: I watched some video that was not compressed just a few weeks ago, a Laserdisc edition of Blade Runner.
I guess you meant "sub-optimal" as in "ridiculously fucking broken in ways that would be impossible to mend were anyone foolhardy enough to actually try to do that."
So what were you going on about again? Oh yeah, you're confused about what "compression" means.
Except for yourself and Bruce Perens, I think we've all got that word figured out pretty well.
(Oh, and also: GIFs are not necessarily lossless in application. Do yourself a favor and think about that for a bit before you tell me that I'm wrong.)
Finish the fucking story man! What happened? What about the glands?
Maybe not where you're from. Where I'm at we have more water than we can deal with most years (yet another flood just last week, with no proper drought in something like 25 years), and arable land is relatively cheap.
It costs something to move that water around, store it, and use it, for sure, but that's an easily identifiable expense.
(And as to the "omg we're going to run out of water!!!" argument, I don't buy it. Never have, never will -- please don't waste the effort.)
Correction: A lot of big oil companies are interested in making money hand-over-fist, whether that be with oil or something else entirely (as are many other companies, many of which lack the financial resources of big oil companies).
Follow the money. No conspiracy needed.
But water can be free. Land can be cheap or free. Fertilizer can be produced locally (animals, legumes). And if electricity is a concern, you can use your self-blessed photovoltaics to produce it.
Seriously. I'm all for an informative discussion of total system efficiency, but jerking one's knee isn't the right way to get there -- let alone bold claims of photosynthesis being 5 times worse than photovoltaics.
I'm OK with that. Why aren't you?
(I also would like some AA guns for the roof of my house.)
I have a touchscreen on my desk. After the novelty wore off, I unplugged that part of it and left it that way (it is otherwise a very fine 1600x1200 IPS display).
I now have a reason to plug it back into something. Thanks!
I was going to attempt to craft a meaningful reply, but then I realize that there would be no point: One cannot convince a paper engineer of anything while they're waving their dick^H^Hploma around.
...because the market buys cheap, horrible displays, so that's what it supplies.
It's not a new problem; it goes waaay back.
I find it hard to generalize TN panels like that. I've seen some that are quite horrible, and some that are quite OK, and neither age not manufacturing date seems to have much to do with how it actually looks in normal use.
That said, you can have my IPS-paneled NEC 2090UXi when you pry it from my cold, dead hands.
I've observed that my machines run glitch-free for years at a stretch with the side panels off while I can't get a broadcast AM receiver to work anywhere inside of my house with the computers running, with FM being almost as bad.
Because computers don't radiate enough of anything to affect something outside of the device, I must have been imagining this repeatably-demonstrable phenomenon for the past couple of decades.
Mmmm. Your Kool-Aid tastes good!