As I replied to another on this thread, no Moderator can do that. It requires higher permissions to ban someone.
Not quite.
There is code to automatically ban a poster's IP address (or sub-net) if the poster receives too many down-mods in a certain time-frame. While an individual moderator cannot directly ban someone per se, enough down-mods and the poster will be banned. It does not take any editor interaction, it is an automatic ban.
And generally speaking asking for someone who has those higher permissions (as in a/. administrator) by posting something like "Mods, ban this guy" is kind of like walking up to a random table in the cafeteria and saying something to a manager, hoping he'll be close enough to hear what you say.
Again, not quite.
While it is true that moderators cannot do anything but moderate a message up or down, the cumulative effect of enough down-mods will cause a poster to be banned. It has happened to myself and several other users that I know of in recent weeks. Correspondence with the editors has confirmed this fact, and while they do generally respond, it can take quite a while for them to get around to replying. For the record, the editors generally will not do anything to lift an automatic ban.
Mods can't ban, they can only lower this one post's score.
If poster's scores are lowered enough times, they will begin to automatically post at score:0 but they will still be able to post.
Enough down-mods and the poster's sub-net will be blocked from posting. It doesn't even take many down-mods - I had a comment moderated up and down a number of times and got banned, because they don't take into account any up-mods, just the down-mods. I am still banned BTW, just posting via a different sub-net...
It doesn't matter if the user is logged in or not either - the entire sub-net the user posted from will get banned, so anyone else on that sub-net will also be banned as a consequence.
No one is breaking in; one must pay to enter a cinema theatre. If you want to come into my house, pay me for that, and make a copy of my TV, then you are welcome.
For once and for all: (illegal) COPYING IS NOT STEALING
<Sigh>
*I* am only replying to the deluded parent who seems to think that a law prohibiting the use of recording instruments in a cinema is as bad as a law outlawing witchcraft, or removing the rights of coloured people. I chose an extreme example to show how flawed those arguments can be.
In a nutshell - the kid broke the law, get over it. Is the law a good law or a bad one? I'm opting for the good law side of the equation. Is "theft" involved? Beats the fuck out of me, but the little shit shouldn't have been doing what he was doing and should have known better.
Stealing something because you don't agree with the law is no defense. No-one is accusing this thief of being a witch, or declaring the world is round, or being black. He was caught with a camcorder, filming a movie.
Or would you not mind if I broke into your house, raped your wife/partner, took your tv and computer and set fire to the place on the way out? Surely if I don't see anything wrong with those actions I shouldn't be charged with any crimes?
How exactly do we do that? No bids allowed in the last 5 minutes of an auction? Surely the snipers would simply have to submit their bid just before the 5 minute lock-out period and you are stuck in the same situation.
Maybe it would be possible to restrict bidding in the last 5-10 minutes to current bidders, so no-one can jump in on an auction right at the last second, but then all that is required is for a sniper to place a small, place-holder bid early on and once again you get sniped at the end.
The option to extend the auction by 5-10 minutes (or an hour) after the last bid might be a semi-workable alternative, but online auctions are a different beast to real-life, physical auctions. Not all the bidders may be online in the final moments.
Personally, I have no problem with the current system. Yes, I have been sniped before, and yes, I have sniped successfully once or twice myself. It is all part of the game. If I miss out on an item, then it is just bad luck. If I look around I might find another seller selling something similar. (I have also missed out on winning an item because I was in the can with a bad case of the runs, but sometimes shit happens.)
1. People selling feedback to each other with penny auctions. 2. Seller sells a whole bunch of $.01 stuff, gets a whole bunch of good feedback, waits for a period when those auctions have disappeared from ebay's database, then starts selling $$$$thousand laptop computers and scams everybody for $$$$thousands. 3. Buyer buys a whole bunch of $.01 stuff, gets a whole bunch of good feedback, waits for a period when those auctions have disappeared from ebay's database, then starts selling $$$$thousand laptop computers and scams everybody for $$$$thousands. 4. You'll see people regularly getting different user i.d.'s to give themselves feedback or even better since it's not that obvious, they'll get their friends and family to give them feedback.
For all of these reasons you should check the feedback of the recent auctions thoroughly. Make sure that any recent auctions that are still listed are for similar items with prices around the same ball-park figure. Check the feedback of the buyers - disregard feedback from buyers who have negative/low feedback themselves. Check what the previous buyers are buying now - if they have recently bought similar items, check the feedback for those transactions to make sure that the feedback pattern is consistent. Check that the buyers who have left feedback have left feedback for other, unrelated sellers (ie, by checking items usually sold by those sellers) to make sure there are no feedback rings in effect.
If you are bidding on anything substantial, you must do your homework to avoid being scammed. Under no circumstances should you agree to buy something outside of eBay - a current scam is to offer notbooks (for example) for sale at a ridiculously low "buy it now" price, but require "pre-approved bidders only". When you send an email for approval, you get a reply offering to sell the item without going through eBay. Many people have been stung by these operators - even though the location of the seller is listed as a local town, they turn out to be in some remote country.
In short: NEVER buy something where you cannot verify a seller's history of selling similar items recently. If the seller has a high feedback rating, but hasn't sold anything for the past three months or so, steer clear.
5. It's rare and not talked about but some sellers have software that can yes DELETE NEGATIVE FEEDBACK. So how are you supposed to know the person you're dealing with is honest if he's deleted all his negative feedback?
Do you have any further information on this? What proof that such a tool exists? Does eBay know this (supposedly) happens?
6. Account hijacking--Every ebayer has got a spoof email from scammers pretending to be ebay and telling them to type in their ebay password and SOME PEOPLE FALL FOR IT. The scammer takes over or shares that seller's account. So that 5000 feedback honest seller who you've always dealt with that was great sells you a $5,000 and you lose your money because it was really a scammer you dealt with. HOW IS LOOKING AT FEEDBACK GOING TO HELP???
If it is a seller you have dealt with several times before and they are selling a high-priced item, you should contact him/her by email and/or phone. With an established relationship you would have their details which could be used to confirm transactions before handing over that amount of money.
Having said that, account-hijacking is probably the hardest scam to work out, but again, by checking the seller's previous history and questioning the listing of items that do not fall into that seller's pattern, you can give yourself some peace of mind.
Do not blindly assume that every seller on eBay is going to be 100% honest and trustworthy.
Eric is definitely the author to turn to for CSS. I have the first edition of Core CSS and while it is kinda okay when I was starting with CSS, Eric's books quickly took over as my preferred reference due to their greater accuracy and better format. I don't think I'll bother with Core CSS v2 - I'll stick with Eric thanks.
Yeah - why don't they just use a $50 TV capture card and capture the film off a video? It'd work out a darn sight cheaper. Surely they'd have these movies on VHS somewhere?;-)
Use a combination of index cards and an outline. Every little idea or concept - jot it down on an index card. Use the outline to start bringing all those pieces together. It'll be chaotic at first, but as you think of something that needs to be documented, add a note somewhere in the outline and bung the rest on a card.
Be prepared to shuffle the cards around quite a bit until the structure seems right, but that's the advantage of index cards. But the real important thing is to make sure that you write things down as they come to you, rather than trying to remember to write about it later - you'll forget.
Or does the Aussie dollar trade like 3 to 1 for US dollars (ok I'm a typical American and don't know what other money is "worth" but I thought Aussie dollars were in the ballpark of the same value as US).
The Aussie dollar is about 0.75 USD. However, bear in mind that hardware prices here are generally higher than in the US - though not THAT high. Also, there isn't much competition for this box, so they can charge whatever the market will bear.
You state the need for a charge like it is a sure thing. The linked article is short on details but the possibility that this could be driven by ads is a possibility. Since I don't live in Japan, I'm not in a position to comment on the market there but if Marvel or DC released a system like this, the reduction in printing costs could lead to a system much like network television - where advertisers are paying for the development of content and all the company has to deliver is mindshare.
Consider the "marvellous" revolution of e-books. Surely e-books also benefit from a reduction in printing and distribution costs, yet they cost almost as much as traditional, dead-tree books. (Aside: Maybe this is why e-books have not taken off yet?) While I grant that advertising might fund the distribution of these comics, I honestly doubt that the cost will be removed from the transaction completely. Even if advertisers are willing to pay the full cost of producing and distributing the content, if the content companies can squeeze a few extra yen out of the consumers they will do so. More profit is the aim after all.
I think comic strips are quite a different animal than the Famicom system you cite as evidence. It has always cost more to produce a video game than it is to produce a comic strip.
While that is definitely true, there is still a cost involved in producing the comic - ie, paying the writers/artists and distribution costs. Stores are not going to install download kiosks unless someone is paying for their presence. Who will pay for the network connections required to transmit the content? Who will pay to prepare the content in the first place. There are costs involved, even if they are lower than the costs involved in producing a video game. What this means is that the cost to the consumer will be much lower than a video game would cost, but the cost will most certainly still be there.
Of course there will be a charge to download the media - how else are they to pay for the content? The Super Famicom system mentioned in the article charge about 500 yen to download a game IIRC.
Couple the book with Post-It Tape Flags and you can quickly and easily cross-reference your ideas and can use the tape flags as colour-coded bookmarks.
That's the thing that got me with the changes in the SE - so many little mistakes in the films were left unchanged, but scenes that already worked were turned upside down. Oh well, they're Georgie's babies and we still paid to see them and bought the videos and will buy the DVDs...
Bugger - must be another difference between R3 and R1. We got two discs, but one is the movie (with original and live soundtracks) and the other is special features...
Slashdot Mirror
As I replied to another on this thread, no Moderator can do that. It requires higher permissions to ban someone.
/. administrator) by posting something like "Mods, ban this guy" is kind of like walking up to a random table in the cafeteria and saying something to a manager, hoping he'll be close enough to hear what you say.
Not quite.
There is code to automatically ban a poster's IP address (or sub-net) if the poster receives too many down-mods in a certain time-frame. While an individual moderator cannot directly ban someone per se, enough down-mods and the poster will be banned. It does not take any editor interaction, it is an automatic ban.
And generally speaking asking for someone who has those higher permissions (as in a
Again, not quite.
While it is true that moderators cannot do anything but moderate a message up or down, the cumulative effect of enough down-mods will cause a poster to be banned. It has happened to myself and several other users that I know of in recent weeks. Correspondence with the editors has confirmed this fact, and while they do generally respond, it can take quite a while for them to get around to replying. For the record, the editors generally will not do anything to lift an automatic ban.
Mods can't ban, they can only lower this one post's score.
If poster's scores are lowered enough times, they will begin to automatically post at score:0 but they will still be able to post.
Enough down-mods and the poster's sub-net will be blocked from posting. It doesn't even take many down-mods - I had a comment moderated up and down a number of times and got banned, because they don't take into account any up-mods, just the down-mods. I am still banned BTW, just posting via a different sub-net...
It doesn't matter if the user is logged in or not either - the entire sub-net the user posted from will get banned, so anyone else on that sub-net will also be banned as a consequence.
Right - get back to me when you finish it.
I took me a while, but I finally worked my way to the end. Can I go outside now?
No one is breaking in; one must pay to enter a cinema theatre. If you want to come into my house, pay me for that, and make a copy of my TV, then you are welcome.
For once and for all: (illegal) COPYING IS NOT STEALING
<Sigh>
*I* am only replying to the deluded parent who seems to think that a law prohibiting the use of recording instruments in a cinema is as bad as a law outlawing witchcraft, or removing the rights of coloured people. I chose an extreme example to show how flawed those arguments can be.
In a nutshell - the kid broke the law, get over it. Is the law a good law or a bad one? I'm opting for the good law side of the equation. Is "theft" involved? Beats the fuck out of me, but the little shit shouldn't have been doing what he was doing and should have known better.
but your comparing it to rape is incredibly extreme.
As is comparing it to witch trials and racial vilification, as the parent post I was replying to did.
Not death - strap him and and hold his eyes open, forcing him to watch every Adam Sandler and Pauly Shore movie. That'll teach him!
Stealing something because you don't agree with the law is no defense. No-one is accusing this thief of being a witch, or declaring the world is round, or being black. He was caught with a camcorder, filming a movie.
Or would you not mind if I broke into your house, raped your wife/partner, took your tv and computer and set fire to the place on the way out? Surely if I don't see anything wrong with those actions I shouldn't be charged with any crimes?
Why? The little fucker broke the law and should be man enough to face the penalties.
I want eBay to ban sniping at the last second.
How exactly do we do that? No bids allowed in the last 5 minutes of an auction? Surely the snipers would simply have to submit their bid just before the 5 minute lock-out period and you are stuck in the same situation.
Maybe it would be possible to restrict bidding in the last 5-10 minutes to current bidders, so no-one can jump in on an auction right at the last second, but then all that is required is for a sniper to place a small, place-holder bid early on and once again you get sniped at the end.
The option to extend the auction by 5-10 minutes (or an hour) after the last bid might be a semi-workable alternative, but online auctions are a different beast to real-life, physical auctions. Not all the bidders may be online in the final moments.
Personally, I have no problem with the current system. Yes, I have been sniped before, and yes, I have sniped successfully once or twice myself. It is all part of the game. If I miss out on an item, then it is just bad luck. If I look around I might find another seller selling something similar. (I have also missed out on winning an item because I was in the can with a bad case of the runs, but sometimes shit happens.)
There's the rub when putting a place-holder bid to negate the BIN. It's part of the gamble you have to take...
1. People selling feedback to each other with penny auctions.
2. Seller sells a whole bunch of $.01 stuff, gets a whole bunch of good feedback, waits for a period when those auctions have disappeared from ebay's database, then starts selling $$$$thousand laptop computers and scams everybody for $$$$thousands.
3. Buyer buys a whole bunch of $.01 stuff, gets a whole bunch of good feedback, waits for a period when those auctions have disappeared from ebay's database, then starts selling $$$$thousand laptop computers and scams everybody for $$$$thousands.
4. You'll see people regularly getting different user i.d.'s to give themselves feedback or even better since it's not that obvious, they'll get their friends and family to give them feedback.
For all of these reasons you should check the feedback of the recent auctions thoroughly. Make sure that any recent auctions that are still listed are for similar items with prices around the same ball-park figure. Check the feedback of the buyers - disregard feedback from buyers who have negative/low feedback themselves. Check what the previous buyers are buying now - if they have recently bought similar items, check the feedback for those transactions to make sure that the feedback pattern is consistent. Check that the buyers who have left feedback have left feedback for other, unrelated sellers (ie, by checking items usually sold by those sellers) to make sure there are no feedback rings in effect.
If you are bidding on anything substantial, you must do your homework to avoid being scammed. Under no circumstances should you agree to buy something outside of eBay - a current scam is to offer notbooks (for example) for sale at a ridiculously low "buy it now" price, but require "pre-approved bidders only". When you send an email for approval, you get a reply offering to sell the item without going through eBay. Many people have been stung by these operators - even though the location of the seller is listed as a local town, they turn out to be in some remote country.
In short: NEVER buy something where you cannot verify a seller's history of selling similar items recently. If the seller has a high feedback rating, but hasn't sold anything for the past three months or so, steer clear.
5. It's rare and not talked about but some sellers have software that can yes DELETE NEGATIVE FEEDBACK. So how are you supposed to know the person you're dealing with is honest if he's deleted all his negative feedback?
Do you have any further information on this? What proof that such a tool exists? Does eBay know this (supposedly) happens?
6. Account hijacking--Every ebayer has got a spoof email from scammers pretending to be ebay and telling them to type in their ebay password and SOME PEOPLE FALL FOR IT. The scammer takes over or shares that seller's account. So that 5000 feedback honest seller who you've always dealt with that was great sells you a $5,000 and you lose your money because it was really a scammer you dealt with. HOW IS LOOKING AT FEEDBACK GOING TO HELP???
If it is a seller you have dealt with several times before and they are selling a high-priced item, you should contact him/her by email and/or phone. With an established relationship you would have their details which could be used to confirm transactions before handing over that amount of money.
Having said that, account-hijacking is probably the hardest scam to work out, but again, by checking the seller's previous history and questioning the listing of items that do not fall into that seller's pattern, you can give yourself some peace of mind.
Do not blindly assume that every seller on eBay is going to be 100% honest and trustworthy.
Eric is definitely the author to turn to for CSS. I have the first edition of Core CSS and while it is kinda okay when I was starting with CSS, Eric's books quickly took over as my preferred reference due to their greater accuracy and better format. I don't think I'll bother with Core CSS v2 - I'll stick with Eric thanks.
Yeah - why don't they just use a $50 TV capture card and capture the film off a video? It'd work out a darn sight cheaper. Surely they'd have these movies on VHS somewhere? ;-)
Use a combination of index cards and an outline. Every little idea or concept - jot it down on an index card. Use the outline to start bringing all those pieces together. It'll be chaotic at first, but as you think of something that needs to be documented, add a note somewhere in the outline and bung the rest on a card.
Be prepared to shuffle the cards around quite a bit until the structure seems right, but that's the advantage of index cards. But the real important thing is to make sure that you write things down as they come to you, rather than trying to remember to write about it later - you'll forget.
it is the UK.... ::ducks::
No. They're talking about chickens - not ducks. Doesn't anyone ever read the linked articles anymore?
Or does the Aussie dollar trade like 3 to 1 for US dollars (ok I'm a typical American and don't know what other money is "worth" but I thought Aussie dollars were in the ballpark of the same value as US).
The Aussie dollar is about 0.75 USD. However, bear in mind that hardware prices here are generally higher than in the US - though not THAT high. Also, there isn't much competition for this box, so they can charge whatever the market will bear.
This seems to be somewhat at odds with the claim they have on the AboutUs page.
You state the need for a charge like it is a sure thing. The linked article is short on details but the possibility that this could be driven by ads is a possibility. Since I don't live in Japan, I'm not in a position to comment on the market there but if Marvel or DC released a system like this, the reduction in printing costs could lead to a system much like network television - where advertisers are paying for the development of content and all the company has to deliver is mindshare.
Consider the "marvellous" revolution of e-books. Surely e-books also benefit from a reduction in printing and distribution costs, yet they cost almost as much as traditional, dead-tree books. (Aside: Maybe this is why e-books have not taken off yet?) While I grant that advertising might fund the distribution of these comics, I honestly doubt that the cost will be removed from the transaction completely. Even if advertisers are willing to pay the full cost of producing and distributing the content, if the content companies can squeeze a few extra yen out of the consumers they will do so. More profit is the aim after all.
I think comic strips are quite a different animal than the Famicom system you cite as evidence. It has always cost more to produce a video game than it is to produce a comic strip.
While that is definitely true, there is still a cost involved in producing the comic - ie, paying the writers/artists and distribution costs. Stores are not going to install download kiosks unless someone is paying for their presence. Who will pay for the network connections required to transmit the content? Who will pay to prepare the content in the first place. There are costs involved, even if they are lower than the costs involved in producing a video game. What this means is that the cost to the consumer will be much lower than a video game would cost, but the cost will most certainly still be there.
Of course there will be a charge to download the media - how else are they to pay for the content? The Super Famicom system mentioned in the article charge about 500 yen to download a game IIRC.
Although sometimes it was defined as "Windows, Icons, Mouse, Pull-down menus" in some publications...
Couple the book with Post-It Tape Flags and you can quickly and easily cross-reference your ideas and can use the tape flags as colour-coded bookmarks.
That's the thing that got me with the changes in the SE - so many little mistakes in the films were left unchanged, but scenes that already worked were turned upside down. Oh well, they're Georgie's babies and we still paid to see them and bought the videos and will buy the DVDs...
must be another difference between R3 and R1
Ugh - make that "R4 and R1."
(Gotta remember to Preview first...)
Bugger - must be another difference between R3 and R1. We got two discs, but one is the movie (with original and live soundtracks) and the other is special features...