Not a chance. Older cars will get grandfathered. A car built in 1970 only has to meet emmissions standards for its model year, not 2004. The same with seatbelts, if your car is old enough that it came from the factory without one, it gets grandfathered under the current motor vehicle laws and becomes street legal.
What is a possibility, is that there will be financial incentives from insurance companies to have dataloggers and tracking systems installed in your vehicle.
Besides, if it did became illegal to tamper with onboard tracking systems, it would as unforceable as the current laws that restrict modifications to your vehicle.
Although I'm not disputing the wider color range on CRT displays, I have found LCDs preferable for working on graphics that have subtle background noise artifacts that I'm trying to remove. Simply tilting the display changes the percieved polarization angle of the LCD, and suddenly two similar colors are displayed with sharp constrast.
Don't be surprised to see a menu option somewhere to disable this (or a hacked firmware update). My Sony Handycam has a buried menu option to disable the record light. Mind you though, this is the same camera that lets you activate NightShot in broad daylight, so a few things may have changed since then...
I once had an old Intel P1 chip dangling from the rearview mirror in my old car. The only problem with it was that whenever it would swing around, the ceramic corner would knock tiny chips of glass out of the windshield. Never stopped me from continuing to use it though.;-)
That's a killer idea! I'm sure there's a market somewhere for mice that can produce fire. The problem lots of smokers have if they leave their lighter somewhere, it goes missing. Having butane storage and ignition on a device tethered to the computer could be one solution.
It might also serve as a handy substitute for a paper shredder.;-)
I've never liked those eraser-head pointers. They feel like you're trying to steer the mouse cursor with a joystick, but with even less tactile control. Also there really is no desktop equivalent to prepare you to use one on a notebook.
Obviously I'm one of those people that likes trackpads. I see them as trackballs, just without moving parts. All desktop experience from using a trackball translates easily into functional use of a trackpad (with the exception of spinning a trackball). Trackpads also have neat tricks you can use to get more use out of them: if you're doing graphics with one, and need single pixel accuracy, roll your finger side-to-side to create fractional movement. To quickly jump to another part of the screen, place one finger on one side/corner of the trackpad, while simultaniously placing a second finger on the opposite side/corner. Then release the first finger. The cursor will now jump across the screen proportionaly the distance between your fingertips. If you set the tracking threshold to 1:1 it can even be used as a tiny tablet. Modern trackpads have now also added features such as clicking/right-clicking, scrolling etc., right from the pad surface, if you choose to use them. (I prefer all to disable all those "enhancement" myself).
Although I use a corded Logitech ballmouse everyday, I do reserve a place in my heart for trackballs. Even brief use of one will demonstrate that they can be *extremely* accurate. In many ways the tactile qualties of a trackball exceed what is possible from a trackpad. It's regretful that laptops aren't made with trackballs anymore.
Mmmm, not quite. The speedo cable (also hooked up to odometer) has an enormous gear reduction on it by the time it gets to the odo. I once did hook a drill up to the back of an instrument cluster to raise the mileage so it would match the vehicle it was going into. The drill at full speed was registering as 80 KPH on the speedo. A bit of quick math puts that at only 1,920 KMs per day. With a goal of about 30,000 KMs that I was trying to add, I eventually resorted to just cracking open the odometer.
The simplest way to alter mileage is to just disconnect the speedo cable from the transmission. As long as the cable is reinstalled later, it's entirely undetectable.
Those digital odometers are embarrassingly easy to re-adjust. Just go do a google search on "digital odometer", you'll find lots of shops offering "repair" services.
A quote from the article:
"I keep two measures of success in mind for JFETS," he tells me. "Number one, I want guys who have been to the Middle East to go into those rooms and have their hair stand on end. And number two, to have the project be an election-year trophy for Donald Rumsfeld and Paul Wolfowitz so they can say, We're transforming the Army."
Election-year trophy? WTF?!
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution RS
The RS package is designed for sportscar purists that don't want heavy luxury crap in their cars. 150 lbs is dropped from the curbweight, the wing is removed, no carpet in the trunk, no stereo, no soundproofing, no AC, no power windows, no power locks, no rear wiper, no ABS, no HID headlights. The package also adds a rear strut brace and a front LSD.
I would buy one of these only if Mitsubishi would only get off their asses and bring the EVO to Canada...
Cracking your windows open even several inches doesn't cause any noticable difference in interior temperatures. As long as you have clear windows, your car will still act like a greenhouse.
Tinting your windows will do wonders for lowering interior temperatures (especially if you use a heat-reflective film). However if you live in an area like mine, you may not be legally permitted to tint any of the front windows.
One very effect method I've found to deal with this is to buy some aluminized bubble wrap, and custom fit to your windshield and front side windows. It's important here that you eliminate any light gaps. Those universal cardboard sunscreens don't do enough. When you park your car, insert the reflective panels into all the front windows.
This combined with window tinting will prevent most light from getting inside the car (if you sit inside, you'll find the interior quite cark). In my own experience using this, I've even found the inside of my car to be no worse than ambient, sometimes even a few degrees cooler than the temperature outside the car! Other benefits you get from this are reduced sun damage to the interior of the vehicle, as well as preventing anyone from seeing inside (it can even block the VIN on your dashboard). Make sure any parking permits are visible prior to putting the panels up;-)
I think end users should start scratching out and initialing undesireable portions of their TOS/Service Contract. Including the part where it can be changed without notice.
This is revolutionary because it nows allows solar panel installation in a place where no one could before: on windows. I don't understand all the bitching about the panel's inefficiency. The panel is a compromise, if anyone read their website, they etch lines into it with a laser.
...During the manufacturing process a laser scribes a series of ultra fine lines, allowing 10% of visible light to be transmitted through the panel...
Of course the efficiency goes down when you remove 10% of the photovoltaic material, but if you can put it up where windows used to be, you end up winning in the end. This is especially true for office towers and skyscrapers which mostly have exclusively glass exteriors. This technology will not replace existing panels. Current opaque solar technology will always have it's place on roofs and walls. The invention of clear solar panels allows those opaque panels to be complemented by making more surface area available to install panels on existing glazing surfaces.
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Not a chance. Older cars will get grandfathered. A car built in 1970 only has to meet emmissions standards for its model year, not 2004. The same with seatbelts, if your car is old enough that it came from the factory without one, it gets grandfathered under the current motor vehicle laws and becomes street legal.
What is a possibility, is that there will be financial incentives from insurance companies to have dataloggers and tracking systems installed in your vehicle.
Besides, if it did became illegal to tamper with onboard tracking systems, it would as unforceable as the current laws that restrict modifications to your vehicle.
Although I'm not disputing the wider color range on CRT displays, I have found LCDs preferable for working on graphics that have subtle background noise artifacts that I'm trying to remove. Simply tilting the display changes the percieved polarization angle of the LCD, and suddenly two similar colors are displayed with sharp constrast.
Don't be surprised to see a menu option somewhere to disable this (or a hacked firmware update). My Sony Handycam has a buried menu option to disable the record light. Mind you though, this is the same camera that lets you activate NightShot in broad daylight, so a few things may have changed since then...
I once had an old Intel P1 chip dangling from the rearview mirror in my old car. The only problem with it was that whenever it would swing around, the ceramic corner would knock tiny chips of glass out of the windshield. Never stopped me from continuing to use it though. ;-)
heavy, chrome, guaranteed forever.
;-)
& a keyboard would be nice too.
That's a killer idea! I'm sure there's a market somewhere for mice that can produce fire. The problem lots of smokers have if they leave their lighter somewhere, it goes missing. Having butane storage and ignition on a device tethered to the computer could be one solution.
It might also serve as a handy substitute for a paper shredder.
I've never liked those eraser-head pointers. They feel like you're trying to steer the mouse cursor with a joystick, but with even less tactile control. Also there really is no desktop equivalent to prepare you to use one on a notebook.
Obviously I'm one of those people that likes trackpads. I see them as trackballs, just without moving parts. All desktop experience from using a trackball translates easily into functional use of a trackpad (with the exception of spinning a trackball). Trackpads also have neat tricks you can use to get more use out of them: if you're doing graphics with one, and need single pixel accuracy, roll your finger side-to-side to create fractional movement. To quickly jump to another part of the screen, place one finger on one side/corner of the trackpad, while simultaniously placing a second finger on the opposite side/corner. Then release the first finger. The cursor will now jump across the screen proportionaly the distance between your fingertips. If you set the tracking threshold to 1:1 it can even be used as a tiny tablet. Modern trackpads have now also added features such as clicking/right-clicking, scrolling etc., right from the pad surface, if you choose to use them. (I prefer all to disable all those "enhancement" myself).
Although I use a corded Logitech ballmouse everyday, I do reserve a place in my heart for trackballs. Even brief use of one will demonstrate that they can be *extremely* accurate. In many ways the tactile qualties of a trackball exceed what is possible from a trackpad. It's regretful that laptops aren't made with trackballs anymore.
Actually, we end up giving most of it up to you guys.
Mmmm, not quite. The speedo cable (also hooked up to odometer) has an enormous gear reduction on it by the time it gets to the odo. I once did hook a drill up to the back of an instrument cluster to raise the mileage so it would match the vehicle it was going into. The drill at full speed was registering as 80 KPH on the speedo. A bit of quick math puts that at only 1,920 KMs per day. With a goal of about 30,000 KMs that I was trying to add, I eventually resorted to just cracking open the odometer.
The simplest way to alter mileage is to just disconnect the speedo cable from the transmission. As long as the cable is reinstalled later, it's entirely undetectable.
Those digital odometers are embarrassingly easy to re-adjust. Just go do a google search on "digital odometer", you'll find lots of shops offering "repair" services.
A quote from the article: "I keep two measures of success in mind for JFETS," he tells me. "Number one, I want guys who have been to the Middle East to go into those rooms and have their hair stand on end. And number two, to have the project be an election-year trophy for Donald Rumsfeld and Paul Wolfowitz so they can say, We're transforming the Army."
Election-year trophy? WTF?!
Not to be insensitive or facitious, but why not get an old computer? A machine thats a couple years old already has spent plenty of time baking off residual solvent vapors and other chemicals. You might want to crack it open and remove all the dust on the inside first, though ;-).
If you insist on modern hardware, have a look at some of the ruggedized equipmnent that is designed for industrial use (note this shit's not cheap):
environmentally sealed NEMA 4/4x stainless steel/ABS plastic keyboards
waterproof/contamination proof silicon keyboard with integrated pointing device, that can be chemically sterilized
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution RS
The RS package is designed for sportscar purists that don't want heavy luxury crap in their cars. 150 lbs is dropped from the curbweight, the wing is removed, no carpet in the trunk, no stereo, no soundproofing, no AC, no power windows, no power locks, no rear wiper, no ABS, no HID headlights. The package also adds a rear strut brace and a front LSD.
I would buy one of these only if Mitsubishi would only get off their asses and bring the EVO to Canada...
Once this thing is working, I can type and keep one hand on the trackball, er..wheel when I'm driving.
Cracking your windows open even several inches doesn't cause any noticable difference in interior temperatures. As long as you have clear windows, your car will still act like a greenhouse.
;-)
Tinting your windows will do wonders for lowering interior temperatures (especially if you use a heat-reflective film). However if you live in an area like mine, you may not be legally permitted to tint any of the front windows.
One very effect method I've found to deal with this is to buy some aluminized bubble wrap, and custom fit to your windshield and front side windows. It's important here that you eliminate any light gaps. Those universal cardboard sunscreens don't do enough. When you park your car, insert the reflective panels into all the front windows.
This combined with window tinting will prevent most light from getting inside the car (if you sit inside, you'll find the interior quite cark). In my own experience using this, I've even found the inside of my car to be no worse than ambient, sometimes even a few degrees cooler than the temperature outside the car! Other benefits you get from this are reduced sun damage to the interior of the vehicle, as well as preventing anyone from seeing inside (it can even block the VIN on your dashboard). Make sure any parking permits are visible prior to putting the panels up
I think end users should start scratching out and initialing undesireable portions of their TOS/Service Contract. Including the part where it can be changed without notice.
So having sex would be definately be a no-no then.
Here's a clickable URL for those too lazy to copy and paste:
http://www.compucage.com
This is revolutionary because it nows allows solar panel installation in a place where no one could before: on windows. I don't understand all the bitching about the panel's inefficiency. The panel is a compromise, if anyone read their website, they etch lines into it with a laser.
...During the manufacturing process a laser scribes a series of ultra fine lines, allowing 10% of visible light to be transmitted through the panel...
Of course the efficiency goes down when you remove 10% of the photovoltaic material, but if you can put it up where windows used to be, you end up winning in the end. This is especially true for office towers and skyscrapers which mostly have exclusively glass exteriors. This technology will not replace existing panels. Current opaque solar technology will always have it's place on roofs and walls. The invention of clear solar panels allows those opaque panels to be complemented by making more surface area available to install panels on existing glazing surfaces.