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Building a Stained Glass Computer Case?
Ldyandrea asks: "I'm a stained glass artist, and also a bit of a computer nut....but I'd like to build an actual stained glass computer case, and don't know enough about hardware design to build something like this from scratch. I have seen the acrylic cases, and this would be one of the best things to base a design upon, but wondering if there is simply (rather than a case with cutouts) a "skeleton" that has the metal framework and whatnot that I can build around? I realize that cooling is a big issue for this idea, and would want to have a few different fans involved. Can anyone point me in the right direction of either a supplier of such a framework, or some general good ideas I should keep in mind when constructing this case?" This is such an interesting idea, I had to post it. When you think about it, it shouldn't be too hard to do, even if you can't get such a case "skeleton". How hard would it really be to take an ordinary case to a metal worker to get it cut to specs? I just hope Ldyandrea sends us back some pictures of the finished product whenever it is finished.
here and here seem to have some interesting examples of this, but I guess you already know this, since you already did a google search? :)
I Think that would be the most original case mod idea i have heard of yet, more power to ya. I'm acctually thinking of getting that stickon stained glass stuff and adding a window now
(Score:0, Interesting)
Wouldn't all the vibration made by the various pieces of hardware resonate off the glass? You'd have to dampen it somehow, which I'm sure someone here can suggest how.
Someone hates these cans.
This is an awesome idea and I imagine it will look so nice when it's finished but wouldn't you be afraid to work with your case since it's so nice but stained glass isn't exactly the same ol' sheet metal here. I have a mirror finish done on my case and I'm really apprehensive about working with it in fear of scratching it, I just think in your case shattering glass would be much worse than just a scratch on the paint.
http://www.shogunatedesign.com
I know you don't really want to use an acrylic case, but it might be a good idea. AFAIK, Stained glass isn't the hardiest substance around, and PCs can weight upwards of 30 pounds or more, so I would think using a clear case, which is sturdy and will hold the weight, as a base then putting the stained glass on top of it might be a better idea.
I'm not 100% sure, but it makes sense that most of the strength of a stained glass window would come from the frame, right? Well, if that's the case, you'd need a real heavy and stiff frame to support all the weight of the pc parts, keep it true (Don't want to pick up a case and have it fold in on you like a stepladder) and any other unforeseen events.
Can stained glass handle being opened up and closed a bunch of times? Being knocked over?
Your dealing with something in 3 Dimensions here, not the mostly 2 Dimensions you use with a window, so you'll have to adjust your thoughts accordingly.
But, if your deadset on building one from scratch, most metal workers will build the frame you need, and fairly cheap as well. It's almost trivial to them. Then you can go online and get parts you'll need to finish it up. Hope it helps!
Looking for hardware (Currently need: Large Etch-a-Sketch) Have one? See my journal!
maybe you can pick his brain: lucentrigs.com
Computer Success has one on display (warning, requires IE to successfully navigate their site), and it looks like LucentRigs is the website of the guy who built it.
What, me worry?
Check out this one.
This isn't the sig you are looking for... Carry on...
The metal in the cases wasnt chosen only because it looks pretty, it blocks out the EMI coming from the PC inards, as well as the EMI from the surrounding environment from interfering with said PC innards. Hopefully the lead in the stained glass (is there lead in stained glass? or only in the sodder) will block some of it. (This type of issue got a lot of talk when the clear PCs came out) That being said, i would suggest using a regular PC case, where the sides and front can be removed as a starting point, even if the front must be hacked apart a little bit, mind the wires though, the LEDs will make the front real pretty when you have completed the project. For good air flow I would suggest leaving an inch or two between the ground and the start of the stained glass, and using that gap to suck air in at the front, mind the studies on effect of adding additional fans, it doesnt allways improve airflow.
paul reinheimer
Why not just take an alumnium case and cut out the panels? You could paint what remains black and then build the stained glass around the frame.
If I were you, I'd worry about not just cooling but dust -- after a year of running dust will collect all over the inside of your glass and in the little unreachable parts. You might want to look at air filters for the fans.
on the market there are cases with pull out mother board trays. that might be something to start with. basicaly you could take a cheap case and cut out all the parts you need individualy. Personaly.. if you did a nice design stain glass window in each side of your case though.. i think that would be incredibly bueatiful
-- botsex is {grep;touch;strip;unzip;head;mount}
This is almost what you describe.
http://www.plycon.com/cases/diycase.htm
That rust case is about the coolest case mod I've ever seen. It is incredibly well done and very creative. It wouldn't work well for a LAN party machine, but it would certainly look great for your hippie/artist/granola friend that lives in a cabin near the mountains.
IANAL, but I play one on
I don't know about glass, but I got a stained computer case just by spilling coffee on it...
(Spudley Strikes Again!)
$665.95 -- retail price of the beast.
Thank you very much, now I have chocolate pie coming out of my nose. People with a sense of humor really shouldn't eat/drink and read slashdot.
Karma: Meh (Mostly from meh.)
Krylon (I think) makes a paint that looks like stained glass. You could use that with some creative masking to get an acrylic panel to look like stained glass. I have done stained glass before, and it is very time consuming. Neat to make a lamp or some such thing, but a pc case seems a little over the top....but that's just me.
Good Luck
I live in Columbus, Ohio, and have made the mistake of buying things from Computer Success three times. Unless you like DOA parts, an incompetent staff, and refusals by a company to honor their own written return policies, I'd stay away from there.
Now your computer IS windows!
---- "Excuse me. Where's the children's gun section?"
[Disclaimer: I made lamps and terrariums in the 70's, so sue me.]
In short, treat the whole project like a Tiffany lamp.
This case appears to be built that way, although for Tiffany glass it's fugly. Plus he mounts a fan to a glass panel. Bad idea.
If you work stained glass I don't need to explain the advantages of Tiffany style construction. But for the other folks, it's stronger and prettier than 'lead came' ("H" channel lead) construction commonly used in windows.
So, for the glass I would definitely go that way.
As far as mounting the heavy bits, like a lamp I would use a fixture (frame) and keep the glass non-load bearing.
In keeping with the Tiffany lamp theme, use a pretty material for the frame. I'd look into using brass rod and sheet to make a 'perimeter' frame. Use brass lugs to join the pieces. I say this because brass and bronze are common Tiffany lamp fixture materials so it wouldn't look out of place with the stained glass, especially if you applied a patina finish to the metal.
Continuing with this basic frame, you then have a choice of making a glass 'shade' that slips over the frame, individual glass panels that come off, or perhaps a combination of the two. You could get fancy and make hinges for access panels out of tubing and rod.
As far as EMI compliance, forget it; the glass is little better than air for magnetic shielding.
Making a good ground plane under the mobo and to the rear panel is important to prevent ground loops and reduce static discharge, so splurge on the brass sheet there.
Cooling shoudln't be a huge problem so long as you position the fans close to where the airflow is needed.
-dvd_tude
Stained glass windows using the lead-and-solder method (lead came) are very bendy and whippy; most of their strength comes from the frame. Large panels generally need to be braced. Also, lead came panels sag over time, especially if the cement (grouting) comes loose.
Lead came construction works for flat windows. As far as making shapes, forget it. It's way too weak.
Ever lift a Tiffany lamp shade? They're pretty hefty, yet, they retain their shape over time and they're not bendy. Tiffany glass (foil-and-solder) is much stronger and resistant to bending, because:
o the foil has adhesive backing to hold the glass
o the finished joint has no gaps (therefore no cementing needed)
o the solder has alloy metals to make it stiffer (e.g., tin) so it doesn't sag.
o the finished piece is much lighter than lead came
Tiffany style construction is a bit more labor-intensive (mostly you need to dress the cut glass edges) but the results are worth it: you have much more freedom in the design, be it a window, lamp, or computer case.
See more about the Tiffany method here.
- dvd_tude
Be aware that glass, depending on which type you use, may be slightly conductive. Not enough to short your MB out, but perhaps enough to disrupt connections.
Correct me if I am wrong, please, but better safe than sorry.
What you'll want to do is form a blank that you can work onto. Take a piece of yellow foam (or build one out of plywood, or use an old case) and work on that. Use lead came (non-tiffany, non-foil) construction to flesh out the large structural bits. Then slide panels that you have already made using the foil technique into this came. You have to plan out the whole thing quite precisely beforehand, as you know, but it should be a maneagable project, especially if you do something with a lot of rectangles or repeated parts.
You're going to want to build into this thing some handles and some coasters on the bottom so you can move it. Otherwise, it will be a complete and utter nightmare. Use the bottom (which won't be stained glass, unless you're going to be really anal) as a structural base from which you can refer everything to.
oh and DON'T FORGET TO HAVE FUN
TOOT TOOT
SET SAIL FOR FUN.
Who are y oo ?
Heat is a big concern for you if you want a quiet machine. You should totally underclock it- I know it sound unethical here on slashdot but underclocking saves a lot of cool air. I had to underclock my P4 'cause some some caps were humming and suprise suprise I hardly notice the difference in daily activities. There's no difference in Mozilla and my mail pops up just as fast.
Now truth be told I also do quite a bit of video editting for a media group, but I do all that on my Mac (which might also sound unethical to some)...but that's another discussion entirely.
Who is this "Poster" guy and why does he own all of my comments?!?
Search term: stained glass pc case
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Oddly enough this story has already been caught by google.
You might consider the aluminum structural framing used in a lot of custom industrial equipment. This is basically bolt-together aluminum channel. It is fairly easy to put together, makes a very nice rigid frame, is easy to attach brackets to, can be cut with simple hand tools, and some brands look pretty good. A lot of small to mid-sized custom industrial equipment is in boxes built with these frames - often with rectangular tubing forming the edges of a box and glass or PVC sheets forming the face of the box. Using stained glass in place of the window glass or PVC seems a natural fit.
The problem would be that this stuff is priced for industrial users. To get an idea of what is available and what it costs look up structural framing at McMaster Carr. McMaster Carr is a full-priced industrial supply company, so nothing there is cheap, but this type of stuff is hard to get cheap. If you can find somebody who is buying this stuff in bulk they might be willing to sell you some of their scrap pieces. The type of company that might have this stuff would be automation houses or custom machine builders.
A few of the many suppliers out there are:
Fred
check this out www.lucentrigs.com