Slashdot Mirror


Measuring the Energy You Use?

centdollarman asks: "Everyone keeps talking about how energy is being wasted here and there. Energy bills keep soaring for me, and now I'm back to paper and pencil: just taking notice of the power meter values. Mine is nice, as it has a cute LED that blinks at 1/1000 of a KWh. However, there has to be a better way to do this, and I've started searching the web for someway to count my usage, automatically. Of course, this is easier said than done. It would also be nice to have some way to (cheaply!) measure the power consumption of a single device." So, for the energy conscious among us: how are you measuring the power you use?

184 comments

  1. Stating the obvious by iainl · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Don't you have meters anywhere you could keep an eye on?

    Extensive tracking on a per device basis is probably going to use up energy itself, so I'm really not sure if that bit will achieve too much.

    --
    "I Know You Are But What Am I?"
    1. Re:Stating the obvious by Noah+Adler · · Score: 1

      Extensive tracking on a per device basis is probably going to use up energy itself, so I'm really not sure if that bit will achieve too much.

      Isn't that a bit like claiming that because a profiler takes up some processor time, profiling code won't achieve much? Running per-device energy monitors perpetually may not be the best idea, but doing it for a week or two could prove very useful.

  2. Weird units by QuantumFTL · · Score: 2, Funny

    blinks at 1/1000 of a kWh

    In these parts, we call that a Watt-hour. What are you, some kind of Canadian?

    1. Re:Weird units by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

      You have Wh in the US? I thought you measure energy in ounceyards or something like that?

    2. Re:Weird units by MrNaz · · Score: 0

      It blinks at 1 watt-hour?

      Over how long?

      I'm getting sick of people confusing watts and watt-hours.

      Someone write up a once-and-for-all explanation for all the idiots here who have no idea watt the difference is.

      --
      I hate printers.
    3. Re:Weird units by xutopia · · Score: 1

      Why don't you get off your high horse and write it up?

    4. Re:Weird units by Lars+Clausen · · Score: 1

      Well, go back to bed then. The powermeters measure your usage in watt-hours, not watts. So an LED that blinks when a watt-hour has been used is meaningful (if less useful than, say, a digital read-out of watt-hours used). Thus if it blibnks once per hour, you are using one watt-hour per hour, or one watt (on average during that hour).

    5. Re:Weird units by mangu · · Score: 1
      I thought you measure energy in ounceyards or something like that?


      Watt/kilowatt hours are a kind of convenience measurement, they are not international system units. Like kilometers per hour, those units simplify day-to-day use, but make things more complicated for calculations.


      The real source of the problem is that there has never been an accepted day-to-day system of decimal multiples for the second, which is the SI unit of time. Ultimately, this would be a difficult thing to implement, given that human life is dependent on sunlight and seasons. The earth's rotation around its axis and around the sun aren't exact multiples, and they vary from day to day and from year to year. That's why there are leap days and leap seconds.


      The second, which is the *only* unit of time in the international system, has a precise and well defined value. This value is obtained from measurable physical properties, such as the frequency of vibrations of atoms under well-defined circumstances. For scientific and many engineering uses, one needs to use such precise values.


      OTOH, for many other uses one doesn't need all that precision, even the most fussy person wakes up in the morning at a time whose accuracy will never be better than a second or so. Farmers need to know the season of the year within a day or a week, they don't go like "...OK, summer starts at my count, 3, 2, 1, NOW!".


      That's why there are two different measurement systems for time, one is the precisely defined second, in which calculations never employ such fuzzy units as hours or days or weeks, and the other system uses the messy sexagesimal multiples system that comes all the way from ancient Babylon. To help bridge the gap between both systems people sometimes use hybrid measurement units such as "kilowatt-hours" or "kilometers-per-hour".


      The use of minutes with sixty seconds and days with twenty four hours may seem as awkward as feet with twelve inches or pounds with sixteen ounces, but it's a different situation. We cannot measure days and seasons with exact decimal multiples because the duration of days and seasons is variable and they are not locked in step. A day is 86400 seconds long. We could declare a new unit of time, such that a day would be exactly 100000 new-seconds, for instance, but what would be the use? The next day would last a little bit longer, because the earth's rotation is slowing down due to the energy lost to tides. A year is approximately 365.25 days, and this length varies from year to year. Some years are a little bit shorter, some are a little bit longer, depending on the exact pull the other planets exert on the earth's orbit.


      That's the reason why we keep the ancient system, changing it would be inconvenient without any appreciable benefit. But there is no rational reason for keeping other ancient units for measuring lengths, weights, volumes, or temperatures. Most of the world has accepted this simple fact and adopted more practical units for these measurements.

    6. Re:Weird units by lord+sibn · · Score: 1

      No, we use rods, and we measure them by hog's head.

    7. Re:Weird units by Schraegstrichpunkt · · Score: 2, Informative

      Every time a watt-hour (3600 Joules) is consumed, an LED blinks. What is your problem?

    8. Re:Weird units by Keebler71 · · Score: 4, Funny

      Obligatory Grandpa Simpons quote: "The metric system is the tool of the devil! My car gets 40 rods to the hogshead, and that's the way I likes it!"

      --
      "It takes considerable knowledge just to realize the extent of your own ignorance." - Thomas Sowell
    9. Re:Weird units by Waffle+Iron · · Score: 1
      You have Wh in the US? I thought you measure energy in ounceyards or something like that?

      No, silly. That unit doesn't make any sense because it doesn't define units of energy. You probaby mean ouncedalyards. That's what I use; it's the perfect unit for my job of designing elevator systems for chipmunks. It's just a trivial conversion:

      $ units
      2438 units, 71 prefixes, 32 nonlinear units

      You have: ouncedal*yard
      You want: watt*hour
      * 2.1947974e-06
      / 455622.92
    10. Re:Weird units by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm getting sick of people confusing watts and watt-hours.

      I take it there are no mirrors in your house.

    11. Re:Weird units by MindStalker · · Score: 1

      No, it couldn't blink at 1 watt. 1 watt is a measure of speed of flow. If you want to measure an amount of electricity you use watt-hour which means the amount of energy used in an hour with a 1 watt flow. Obviously if you were using say 60 watts, you would be using 60 watts in an hour, OR 1 watt hour every minute.
      So it would blink once a minute.

    12. Re:Weird units by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's really poor mileage you know. 40 (rod / hogshead) = 0.00198 miles per gallon or 10 1/2 feet per gallon. Everything grandpa needs is within ~100 feet of the fuel depot?

    13. Re:Weird units by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I believe Murphy's Law requires that we express everything in furlongs per fortnight.

    14. Re:Weird units by lymond01 · · Score: 1

      We'd change to a decimal system for the same reason we changed the other units: it's simpler to do the math.

      One day is 10000 seconds, 100 minutes, 10 hours. How long is your TV show? A deca. Or half-deca after commercials. How long's it take to run a marathon (if you're worth your salt)? An hour. Fly from LA to NYC? 2.5 hours, or 2 hours and 50 minutes. Time to run the 100 meter dash? 1.04 seconds. A snap of the fingers? millisecond.

      But yes, all for naught if you can't find a natural way to calibrate it. Probably just use the old system's natural calibers and do the math. :-)

    15. Re:Weird units by jandrese · · Score: 1

      The problem with using base 10 math for stuff like that is that it doesn't divide evenly. How often do you convert units when talking about time? A fair bit if you're a researcher maybe, but for most people it's not very often at all. On the other hand, how often do you have to split segements of time in half, thirds, quarters, fifths, or even sixths? Quite a bit if you're like most people. Using 60s, 12s, and 24s a lot (perfect numbers) makes that problem easy. You almost never get messy decimals unless you're really breaking up your time weirdly.

      As far as calibrating a new system of units (should you choose to go this route), remember that only the Day and the Year are really strongly correlated with our solar system. The Month has some correlation with the moon, but it's pretty inaccurate. Seconds, Minutes, Hours, Weeks, and to a lesser extent Months are all arbitrary.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    16. Re:Weird units by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The definition of the second might be arbitrary, but it's exact and can be measured precisely, which is why it is used. At some point its definition was obviously 1/86400 of an Earth day, but nowadays it is defined as (to quote Wikipedia) "the duration of 9 192 631 770 periods of the radiation corresponding to the transition between the two hyperfine levels of the ground state of the caesium-133 atom". The solar system might change(realistically, most of the values involved there are probably changing slowly and gradually), but the caesium-133 atom will remain as it has always been(unless our understanding of nuclear physics is very flawed). Since anyone who wants to go to the trouble of defining a new decimal time system is likely to want it to be an exactly defined one, they can't just exclude the second because it is arbitrary. Since it is impossible to describe the non-arbitrary units you mention neatly in a system defined by the second and the decimal system(that is, describing these as 10^n seconds, where n is an integer), and since these units are important quantities of time for humans and are likely to remain so for a very long time, a decimal time system is not likely to crop up any time soon.

      It's flat out harder to say "see you in approximately 86.4 kiloseconds" than "see you in a day", and likewise with "the baby is 31.5576 megaseconds old" and "the baby is a year old". (The second example is a bit contrived, as there's no need to measure age in years instead of megaseconds, although if you did the latter you would end up with an values in the range of of about [0 Ms, 3155 Ms], as opposed to about [0 years, 100 years] today. The first, however, is not, as long as we live on Earth.)

      There's no actual need to express everything in units as exactly defined as those that are useful in the natural sciences; especially not for concepts that are as intuitive to humans living in normal conditions as time.

    17. Re:Weird units by QuantumFTL · · Score: 1

      Note to Mods: this isn't flamebate. I heart Canada. Please send me all of your magnetic money.

    18. Re:Weird units by MarkRose · · Score: 1

      Remember boys and girls, 1 watt-hour is 14160 yard-ounces!

      --
      Be relentless!
  3. I have a system that periodically updates me by BadAnalogyGuy · · Score: 1, Insightful

    I use a periodic system to update me of my power usage. It comes in the form of a letter from the power company and it tells me how much power I've used as well as the cost for usage for that month. It's really convenient, but I am not really interested in the dirty details of where all that usage is going.

    I suppose if you're really interested, you could try turning off your A/C or electric heating. Kill the water heater except immediately before showering. Turn off lights you're not using. Turn off any computers that are unessential. And CLOSE THE GODDAMNED DOOR. WE'RE NOT COOLING THE WHOLE OUTSIDE!

    1. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by kfg · · Score: 1

      CLOSE THE GODDAMNED DOOR. WE'RE NOT COOLING THE WHOLE OUTSIDE!

      Damned straight, so long as the device is running we're heating it.

      KFG

    2. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny
      Turn off any computers that are unessential.
      But this is slashdot, where unfortunately uptime is more important than power saving.
    3. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by hotdiggitydawg · · Score: 2, Interesting
      Kill the water heater except immediately before showering.


      Or get a power-shower. Or, even better, shower at the gym. I do it because (a) it forces me to stay in the habit of going to the gym every morning, and (b) someone else pays for my hot water. Sure, I pay a gym membership, but I would pay it anyway (at the same price) just to keep fit.

      Simple, inefficient solution: save your own energy, use someone else's.
    4. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      or just never shower at all.

    5. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by Luyseyal · · Score: 1

      You are honorarily titled Mr. Slashdot for the day.

      Good show,
      -l

      --
      Help cure AIDS, cancer, and more. Donate your unused computer time to worldcommunitygrid.org. Join Team Slashdot!
    6. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by htnprm · · Score: 1

      Kill the water heater except immediately before showering.

      Actually, I think you'd find it takes less electricity to constantly keep topping up the water cylinder's temperature rather than letting it cool and heating it up from cold again. To help, try insulating your water cylinder (Do people do this in the US?), though apparently this is less important with modern cylinder's, or even go solar :-).

      Additionally, make sure your house is insulated (I'm pretty sure this is standard practise in American homes, but sadly, New Zealand is only catching on to this idea), change your light bulbs over to compact fluorescent light bulbs, and consider hanging our washing out to dry if you can rather than a dryer. You clothes will last longer too...:-)

    7. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by Nutria · · Score: 1
      I think you'd find it takes less electricity to constantly keep topping up the water cylinder's temperature

      People use electricity to heat the water tank? How inefficient.

      --
      "I don't know, therefore Aliens" Wafflebox1
    8. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by Gothmolly · · Score: 1

      Only your high slashdot UID can explain the idiocy of your statement:

      "but I would pay it anyway (at the same price) just to keep fit."

      If there were no showers at the gym, would it be the same price? If the cost of energy doubled, would it still be the same price? The answers are no, and no, you irrational punk.

      --
      I want to delete my account but Slashdot doesn't allow it.
    9. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by LordNightwalker · · Score: 1

      You're just seeing half the picture here. It doesn't matter that the price would go up if the price of energy doubles; it doesn't matter the price would be cheaper if they didn't offer showers. What matters is he pays for it anyway, and he won't get any price reduction if he doesn't use their showers, so the grandparent was completely correct in asserting that this, to him, seems like a valid way of paying less for his energy usage.

      Next time you call someone an idiot and an irrational punk, make sure your own statements are correct. Sure, it won't make you look like an arrogant prick who just got owned in the eyes of half the slashdot community, but that's not necessarily a bad thing...

      --
      Install windows on my workstation? You crazy? Got any idea how much I paid for the damn thing?
    10. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1
      Actually, I think you'd find it takes less electricity to constantly keep topping up the water cylinder's temperature rather than letting it cool and heating it up from cold again.
      Can you give some math formulas or evidence of this? I have difficulty believing it. I've had some discussions about this regarding keeping things warm on the stove. I'm sure that that is different, but I'd genuinely like to know exactly what the right choice is for every situation.
    11. Re:I have a system that periodically updates me by flibbajobber · · Score: 1

      Actually, I think you'd find it takes less electricity to constantly keep topping up the water cylinder's temperature rather than letting it cool and heating it up from cold again

      Wrong - it's more efficient to heat the water just before you use it, rather than heat it a long time before you use it and try to maintain the heat. The rate of thermal energy loss from a hot body of water is higher than the rate of loss from a cold body of water, while the amount of energy required to heat the cold water that replaces the consumed hot water is constant.

  4. For an individual device by keithmo · · Score: 4, Informative
    1. Re:For an individual device by djmurdoch · · Score: 3, Informative

      The Kill-a-watt has a pretty bad user interface:

        - It is big, so it blocks both parts of a duplex receptacle if you plug it in directly. Use it on a small extension cord.

        - It is powered by the source you plug it into, with no retention of results when unplugged, and no light on the display when in place. Bring a flashlight and/or a longer extension cord if you're using it behind an appliance.

      But in a well lighted location, it is quite informative.

    2. Re:For an individual device by subreality · · Score: 4, Informative

      That's why we have the Watts Up Pro: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/7acf/ . It even has an RS232 interface. But it's relatively expensive.

      I have a Kill-A-Watt, and it has all the problems you mentioned, but it also does everything it promised to do, for cheap. I'm quite happy with it.

    3. Re:For an individual device by Temkin · · Score: 1



      I have one. The parent's comments are right on target. Despite these little annoyances, it is quite handy. I found mine retail at Camping World of all places.

    4. Re:For an individual device by szembek · · Score: 1

      This is the only response needed to this askslashdot article. Maybe the submitter should try google next time.

      --
      nothing
    5. Re:For an individual device by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      but the best thing about it: it measures and displays the True power of Richard M. Stallman

    6. Re:For an individual device by ObjetDart · · Score: 2, Interesting
      Another satisfied Kill-A-Watt owner here. The above mentioned limitations haven't really bothered me. So far I've used it to learn the following things:

      • All the devices in my home office together are costing me about $35/month to run
      • Just running the World Community Grid Agent (or any other distributed client that maxes out the CPU) causes my 2 PCs to use an extra 50 watts/hour each...which at our very high electricity rates costs me an extra $12/month
      • The dehumidifier we have in the basement is a vicious power sucking beast.
      --
      I read Usenet for the articles.
    7. Re:For an individual device by xmas2003 · · Score: 1

      Ditto what others said - yea, the Kill-A-Watt ain't perfect, but cheap and works as advertised. Note that it has some time history capabilities too as long as it is left plugged in. One interesting thing to do is hook it inline on your PC and watch the power draw change between "idle" and when it's "full on"

      I've also used it to measure current draw on my christmas lights to make sure I don't exceed 15 Amps on a circuit - I try to stay under 10 by load balancing.

      --
      Hulk SMASH Celiac Disease
    8. Re:For an individual device by JoeCoder7 · · Score: 0

      This one is qite a bit cheaper at $30.

    9. Re:For an individual device by ealfert · · Score: 1

      Kill-A-Watt monitors electric usage for 1 device or one powerstrip. $30 http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/7657/

      The Energy Detective (TED) monitors the entire house. $140 http://www.theenergydetective.com/

      I have both of the above. I use Kill-A-Watt for easy analysis of a device and TED for monitoring the turning on/off of major appliances. I also switch the wiring of TED to my generator to monitor it and make sure I don't go over desired load.

      Watt's Up Pro is like Kill-A-Watt is for 1 device or one powerstrip but has additional features similar to TED. $120 http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/7acf/

    10. Re:For an individual device by jnik · · Score: 1

      Does it actually work with computers? I've been told that switching power supplies can confuse the cheaper Wh meters.

    11. Re:For an individual device by greg1104 · · Score: 1

      My kill-a-watt has two 6' extension cords attached to it I never disconnect. When I want to measure a device, I unplug it, insert that loop, and I'm done. 6' is plenty of cord in most situations to allow you to move the meter to a comfortable reading position, while not being so much that I worry about adding significantly to the power draw. Unless your device is actually in the dark, there is no need for a flashlight, contorting to read the meter, any of that stuff.

      That leaves the only real drawback at not being able to retain results or record them automatically. In most cases (idle power of computers, TVs, stereo equipment, that sort of thing) I get everything I want to know in a minute or two anyway so it doesn't matter. In a home situation, it's only for appliances like refrigerators and air conditioners that alter their consumption over time where you need something more than the instant readout, and the cumulative mode of the kill-a-watt works fine for that. I built a little spreadsheet that turns the K-a-W readings into $ based on my local electrical rate, and it took me all of 30 minutes to break down the parts of the monthly electric bill I could measure with it besides the refigerator; that I just measured overnight (to include an ice-making cycle or two) and then I was done.

      Since I was already using fairly energy efficient PCs (by virture of not buying any of the pigs released the last few years and having all LCD monitors), it turned out that everything in the place was a minor expense compared to the one thing I couldn't measure directly, the heating/AC/stove gas and electric. Getting a better thermostat capable of fine adjustments based on the time of day and syncing that to the schedule here was the only thing that even had a hope of making a significant dent in the bottom line here. I did walk away from the exercise with a new-found respect for turning off the TV when I wasn't watching it.

    12. Re:For an individual device by EricBoyd · · Score: 1

      I've used the Kill-a-Watt device and blogged about the energy usage of objects in my household - as the article says, it's fairly interesting to be able to gather detailed data like that. http://digitalcrusader.ca/archives/2006/08/househo ld_power_1.html

      --
      augment your senses: http://sensebridge.net/
    13. Re:For an individual device by djtack · · Score: 1
    14. Re:For an individual device by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yes, in addition to simple VA (volts * amps), it gives you actual corrected watts, kilowatt-hours consumed over time, how long the meter has been plugged in, and the power factor you'd need for correction if you were doing it yourself. The units I've seen have been pretty accurate when compared with fancier meters, especially since they're only $30.

    15. Re:For an individual device by djmurdoch · · Score: 1

      That's a good solution. I didn't mean to imply that I disliked the device, just that a few of the design decisions that went into it were pretty dumb.

  5. Datacentre by IckySplat · · Score: 4, Informative

    The Datacentre we have our kit in has these small LED based ammeters on each of the power strips.
    Very handy for figuring out where our power budget is going.

    Google provides the following in quick order
    http://www.energyoptimizersdirect.co.uk/acatalog/E nergy_Devices.html?gclid=CJ2il5S3r4cCFTpsEAod3n1L- Q
    http://www.blackbox.com/Catalog/Detail.aspx?cid=18 3,1324,1328&mid=4084

    Enjoy :)

    --
    Help! help!, the termites are eating my DRAM!!!
  6. Conserve it anyway first by arun_s · · Score: 2, Insightful

    1. Switch off your computer when you're not using it. (unless you're running a really important server or something. SETI@home does not count.
    2. Switch off the lights when you leave a room.
    3. The TV doesn't need to run all the time.
    Every little bit helps. If you're already doing stuff like this & you're bills are still soaring, then you can try the measurement parts.

    --
    I can explain it for you, but I can't understand it for you.
    1. Re:Conserve it anyway first by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      Every little bit helps.

      I hate statements like this because they aren't logical. I'm not saying that it isn't logical to save energy, only that a shotgun approach is not the most logical method. If you want to save energy it would probably help to look at the items in your house that use significant amounts of power. While it may make you feel good to turn off a 40W light, it isn't going to make nearly as much difference compared to raising the temperature of your refrigerator, using your washing or drying machine less, using your microwave less, using your hairdryer less, using your oven less, or raising the temperature of your thermostat (or decreasing for the winter). Each of the latter is a KW magnitude device.

      The best way to save energy is to prioritize. Work on thermal insulation and sealed windows will probably pay back twice the energy savings to what the energy nannies around the world recommending you turn off your lights, TV, and computer. The reason should be obvious for those with electrical heating: since electrical energy will eventually become thermal energy, does it make a damn bit of difference heating a home by electric heaters or by your TV, stereo, computer, and lights? Why limit them if your thermostat is at the same setting? Local effects? Then buy a fan (and the same argument still applies).

      What would be the effect of limiting your lights, TV, and computer use if you have electrical heating? Your heating system would have to compensate and operate longer to reach the setpoint on the thermostat. In effect, if you live in a cold place there is no purpose to reduce other electrical loads unless they overcompensate for your heating. In a hot place, it makes sense to limit your other loads, but prioritizing will have a larger effect.

      But since we are talking strictly about energy usage, household electrical power really is just a drop in a large bucket. Your car will be at least 200 KW thermal, and local industries will outpower residential electrical usage by over a 2 to 1 factor even in rural communities. I came from a town of 30,000 people. Residential areas used from 30-60 MW. One local mine used 50 MW (open pit mine with ore crusher). Another local silicon manufacturing plant used from 30-60 MW.

    2. Re:Conserve it anyway first by jandrese · · Score: 1

      To be fair, things like computers and light bulbs are less efficent at heating the house than a heat pump, especially a modern heat pump. Anything that is just converting the energy to heat directly (every appliance in your house) does it at a rate of 1 energy unit consumed per 1 unit of heating. A heat pump can move upwards of 3 to 4 units of heat per every 1 unit of energy.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    3. Re:Conserve it anyway first by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What does the energy turn into? Neutrinos? (Hopefully this answers your doubts in a sarcastic, but blunt manner noting that the 2nd law of thermodynamics can't be broken.)

    4. Re:Conserve it anyway first by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Dang. It pays to read before responding. Sorry for being a dick.

      Yes it is true that a heat pump can achieve the efficiencies you discussed (depending upon the heat sink temperature). Very few people use a heat pump so it is meaningless until people do. I've always wondered why people don't use heat pumps (after all, most people own an A/C machine). A heat pump is certainly more efficient than an electric heater, an possibly more efficient than gas heating (where the question to answer is if the 30% net efficiency electrical production to 100% conversion to power for the heat pump (which may convert 200-300% to heat) is more efficient than the 99% conversion to heat of the natural gas).

    5. Re:Conserve it anyway first by jandrese · · Score: 1

      I take it you're not in the US? In the US Heat Pumps are all over the place. The downside of them is that they can't be used in environment that are exceptionally cold (Canada for instance).

      Many other countries don't have them because their cities are old and retrofitting central air into an old house is expensive and difficult (especially if your house is listed as historic).

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
  7. cheaply measure a single device by way2trivial · · Score: 1
    --
    every day http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:Random
    1. Re:cheaply measure a single device by Myself · · Score: 4, Informative

      I love my kill-a-watt but I've been thinking of picking up a Watt's Up? for the datalogging capabilities. But the price is silly, I should just build one.

      Anyway, a clamp-on ammeter should be in your toolkit. (Get a DC-capable model and watch motherboard/peripheral power draw inside your PC!) Instead of slicing open an extension cord, consider an AC line splitter to make your measurements with. The 10-winding side makes small measurements more accurate, and it looks more professional if you end up using it on the job.

    2. Re:cheaply measure a single device by Jaseoldboss · · Score: 1

      For the whole house you need a current clamp meter with a remote display.

      Don't know if they have one for US voltages though.

    3. Re:cheaply measure a single device by Skynyrd · · Score: 1

      For the whole house you need a current clamp meter with a remote display.

      Don't know if they have one for US voltages though.


      It may be a good product, but their advertising is horrible. Yes, I hate flash.
      They claim it "can save up to 25%" on your electric bill. That's simply a lie. It can show you how much power you use, but it can't save power. I never deal with liars like this - kind of like spammers.

      Take a look at this: http://www.tequipment.net/Ideal61-701.asp
      Same idea, and a good multimeter as well.

    4. Re:cheaply measure a single device by Jaseoldboss · · Score: 1

      The site is terrible but I like the idea.

      Two things wrong with them at the moment IMHO: too expensive and no history display.

    5. Re:cheaply measure a single device by dubl-u · · Score: 1

      I love my kill-a-watt [p3international.com] but I've been thinking of picking up a Watt's Up? [doubleed.com] for the datalogging capabilities. But the price is silly, I should just build one.

      After long experience, I have learned that this is true only if I value my time at about five cents an hour. That doesn't always stop me, as building things is fun and educational. But until I end up in a Chinese labor camp, I've stopped pretending that building things is cheaper. YMMV, of course.

    6. Re:cheaply measure a single device by jandrese · · Score: 1

      Depends what you were going to do instead of building it. If you were going to use that time to start your own home business, then yeah, go ahead and buy the prebuilt one. If you were just going to watch TV or play WoW or something, then building it saves you money.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    7. Re:cheaply measure a single device by RadarMan · · Score: 1

      I think the clamp-on ampmeter will not give you the results you're looking for. To calculate AC power, you need to multiply instantaneous volts times amps. Most eletronic devices these days draw current that is not 100% in-phase with the voltage. This difference, called the "power factor," means that you can't accurately calculate power from the RMS current measurement you make with the clamp-on ampmeter. I expect your power numbers will be anywhere from 0 to 200% too high. Devices like kill-a-watt (I think) make many measurement over the 60 Hz cycle and report RMS(V*A) rather than RMS(V) * RMS(A).

    8. Re:cheaply measure a single device by budgenator · · Score: 1

      It doesn't matter, if it's a current meter, it measures current not voltage; even if it was a power meter, the 220v (I think) voltage in Britain is a bit more than the NA's 124Vrms/220Vrms system so it wouldn't actualy hurt the thing but may cause any wattage measurements to be off by half, if it uses powerline freq for timing, it'll be off by 6/5. If you really want to get technical we can argue over the differences between wattHour and Volt-Ampere-Hours and mathematics involved with Root Mean Square measures in the context of sampled vs. continuos.

      --
      Apocalypse Cancelled, Sorry, No Ticket Refunds
    9. Re:cheaply measure a single device by Jaseoldboss · · Score: 1

      I know it measures current but it reports kWh for which it needs to know the voltage.

      In any case I can clear this up since I had a quick look through the online manual. It turns out that you specify the voltage in the setup so you can use it in the US. The default currency is even dollars! Unfortunately, they're going to be about $150 to import so I doubt they get many US orders.

      ...we can argue over the differences between wattHour and Volt-Ampere-Hours
      If you know about power factors you will know that current clamps can't tell you the difference :-)

    10. Re:cheaply measure a single device by jargon82 · · Score: 1

      A very valid point. I hear folks say stuff like this all the time, and I use the same argument for work-related use of windows. Different stuff, same concepts, but in a nutshell... If I'm using time I could be getting paid, it's probably a waste. If I'm billing a customer for time to assemble or build something I could purchase, it's probably a waste. If I'm using time I could be spending with my family, it's probably a waste. Unless it's filling a "hobby" role as well. This is all pretty well described as "opportunity cost" (See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opportunity_cost) and it should be something you think about when your gonna build something. You could always be doing something else :)

  8. I built something to do that by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Homebrew is the way, particularly if you are interested in electronics. I have a similar meter - this is what I did:

    Get a photo-diode, and make it face the blinking watt-hour LED. Use a comparator to convert the state of the LED to a logic signal. Then connect that logic signal to your computer. I did this by having the signal trigger an oscillator which sends an audio signal to my computer's sound card when the LED is on. There are other ways to sample an external signal (e.g. parallel port) but this was the easiest way to arrange things. A program on the computer is constantly listening to the line input: it counts the interval between pulses and calculates the power consumption from that.

    1. Re:I built something to do that by kfg · · Score: 1

      There are other ways to sample an external signal (e.g. parallel port)

      Yep, the photo sensor can be pluged into the parallel port to trigger the internal counting circuit of the cpu. Don't even need to make up a plug, just put pins on the leads and plug them directly into the appropriate holes in the socket. You can run up to eight counters at a time this way (but at that point you'll want to build a cable).

      If you're using a USB printer this may be the way to go, since the only thing you have to "build" are the wires onto the photo sensor. The logic circuit is already built in to your computer.

      As an aside you can make your own computer controled breakbeam devices this way too. Just put an infrared emiting diode on one side , a sensor plugged into the parallel port on the other and when the beam is broken it triggers the internal counter. Now just write the software for whatever you want to happen at a trigger event. Silent alarm, not so silent prerecorded greeting, turn a light on or off, etc.

      KFG

  9. Easily enough by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    My exercise bike automatically displays the energy that I use. I usually quote it in megajoules since it sounds more impressive that way.

  10. well, by joe+155 · · Score: 4, Informative

    I agree with some other comments about conserving energy as a good way for going and stopping your bills from going up... as for a way of measuring you can see that kill-a-watt device some people have shown, it seems like a good idea. One issue is that it doesn't really tell you how much power things like lights and your oven use though (because they don't have standard plugs - at least not here).

    The only way I can think of doing that, although it would be a hastle, would be to switch off all items in your house and verify that with your little light not blinking, then switch your oven on and time how long it takes you to use a Watt/hour. Then switch that off and see about the lights you would normally have one. This would give you some ideas on how much these things use. As a way of reducing the amount of power that they use you could get energy efficient bulbs (they cost more innitially but less in the long term) and if you need to replace your oven you can look for the most energy efficient one you can find (and if gas or electric is cheaper in your area angle your purchase towards that).

    There are also good savings to be made by changing your fridge/freezer and your washing machine to something more efficient (If you live in England we already have a rating service for these, buy only A rated things and you'll save - if not then you'll have to do some investigating on your own)

    --
    *''I can't believe it's not a hyperlink.''
    1. Re:well, by BadAnalogyGuy · · Score: 1

      I find that the failure rate of energy efficient fluorescent bulbs is about the same as normal incandescent bulbs, so any cost reductions on the power bill get negated by the high cost of replacement.

      Stick with normal bulbs. The cost/benefit ratio is no worse than energy efficient bulbs and you don't have to suffer through the "warmup" period that fluorescent bulbs typically have right after you turn them on.

    2. Re:well, by subreality · · Score: 1

      You're making the measurement more complicated than it has to be. Light bulbs and ovens list how much power they use.

    3. Re:well, by joe+155 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      well we can only really talk anecdotally but I find that they last a lot longer than regular bulbs, the standard lightbulbs are supposed to last for around 3,000 hours, and the energy efficient ones are supposed to last for 10,000 hours...

      I suppose this comes down to if you can trust the manufactures and what they say. I agree about you with the warming up period, but it is only for a minute or so, and worth it in the long run (if you do indeed get the full 10,000 hours)

      --
      *''I can't believe it's not a hyperlink.''
    4. Re:well, by sbryant · · Score: 2, Interesting
      ... would be to switch off all items in your house and verify that with your little light not blinking ...

      Take this a step further: plug your TV/HiFi/etc into a powerstrip with its own on/off switch. When you're not using the devices, turn the powerstrip off, and get used to always doing that. Then you'll be using exactly zero Watts! European electronic devices can normally be switched off (in addition to any stanby modes), but it seems that this is not the case in the US. BTW: you can get powerstrips with surge protection, which is quite useful - I know two different people who have had computers damaged by surges (lightning induced).

      As for the bulbs: turning the lights off completely saves even more than the low-power ones! It may sound obvious, but I've often noticed that people leave all sorts of lights on where it's really not necessary. Also remember: the low power bulbs' life expectancy has more to do with the number of times they are turned on than the total on-time, so they may not make sense for some locations; they don't work with dimmer switches either. Other than that, they're a very good idea, and I can now get ones that are the same shape as the old-style bulbs, thanks to a plastic cover over the tubes.

      I think the energy ratings for fridges and the like are at least a European standard. We have them in Germany too. The downside of a highly efficient fridge is that you may end up pulling the handle off, because the vacuum inside is so strong!

      -- Steve

    5. Re:well, by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Try another brand. Cheap compact fluorescents are crap. They don't last long enough and they emit "low quality" light: Their spectrum is uneven because they typically contain only two phosphors. The result is bad color reproduction. Often surfaces which are white under natural light appear to have a greenish undertone under these cheap fluorescents.

      Also make sure you get the right color temperature. Lightbulbs emit 2700K light. That is "warm" light and a good choice for living areas. Compact fluorescents with that color temperatures are available. Office areas should use higher color temperatures.

      A good way to sell people on compact fluorescents is to make the light brighter than before: Don't replace 60W bulbs with 60W-equivalent compact fluorescents. Use a 100W equivalent CF. They still use only about 20W, so you save about 1kWh per week if you replace a bulb that is on for 4 hours each day. At 15ct/kWh, the CF has saved $12 after 2000 hours (500 days at 4 hours per day), which is much less than they are guaranteed to last, so you can expect even bigger savings, all the while enjoying light which is 50% brighter.

    6. Re:well, by SharpFang · · Score: 1

      The hourly rating in their case is completely meaningless number calculated basing on some average based on expected usage.

      Normal fluorescent lamps lifetime professionally is not rated in hours but in switch-on operations. Leave it on for a month, you might have decreased its lifetime by 0.01%. Toggle the switch 500 times in 1 hour, you decreased the lifetime by 10%. Bulbs are way more resistant to this problem, but switching them on does shorten their life too.

      Another factor is working conditions. Primarily power supply - I found the energy-saving lamps to die within a week of usage on a line with "dirty" power - voltage at about 90% of norm, lots of spikes, noise etc. Same brand works for years in conditions of good power in places where they are switched on once and left running, never switched off, in temperature never dropping below zero and low humidity. In both cases the numbers are nowhere near what was written on the box, but if you'd average the numbers you might likely get somewhere near the stated life expectancy.

      --
      45 5F E1 04 22 CA 29 C4 93 3F 95 05 2B 79 2A B2
    7. Re:well, by joe+155 · · Score: 1

      Ah, you remind me of a very good point which I forgot to mention, If you have a TV on stand-by it can use almost as much power as if it is on (at least they used to - and probably still do). I was amazed at just how much power things can use in stand-by. It really is worth switching things off properly, as you say, at the plug if neccesary.

      The small hastle of losing the clock on a TV and having to walk over to do it is nothing when thinking about the energy you'll save

      --
      *''I can't believe it's not a hyperlink.''
    8. Re:well, by jrmcferren · · Score: 0

      Not anymore, the old TVs you are talking about use tubes. The new ones are solid state and do not keep heater current flowing to the CRT (which is why they still have to warm up). You are talking about 4-10 Watts Max even for a HUGE CRT projection or plasma set. Standby modes have come a long way. Light bulbs, however is where the majority of the energy waste is at. I would go into more detail, but that would be redundant and I have to get my ass to class.

      --
      sudo mod me up
    9. Re:well, by plover · · Score: 1
      I find that the failure rate of energy efficient fluorescent bulbs is about the same as normal incandescent bulbs

      Ouch! Fortunately, I haven't had the same bad luck as you.

      About three years ago I started switching over to compact fluorescent (CF) bulbs as my tungsten bulbs have died. The ones I've bought have a 7 year guarantee (cheapos from Home Depot.) I've taken to writing the install date on them with a sharpie marker before putting them in the fixtures. Yes, I know I'll never find the original receipt so the warranty is most likely useless, but I'm curious to see if they do last as long as advertised.

      So far, I haven't replaced any failed CFs. I particularily like having them in the sealed ceiling fixtures as they don't generate nearly the heat of the tungsten bulbs they replace. Yes, I know the fixtures are designed with heat insulation to protect against fire, but 26W simply emits much less heat than 120W. I feel safer.

      --
      John
    10. Re:well, by MindStalker · · Score: 0

      I always thought would be an interesting idea would be to connect every light switch in the house to a motion sensor. If you turn off the light it stays off, but if you turn it on it goes off once you leave the room. Any idea how many watts those small motion sensors use?

    11. Re:well, by rhandir · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I've had good luck with the compact fluorecents in ouside (enclosed) fixtures. No heating/cooling cycles on a fragile bit of filiment has meant no bulb replacements in 1.5 years, as opposed to every 3-4 months. The light quality (color) is kinda iffy, but I'm willing to use them in the garage, basement, and kitchen. Heat dissapation is a bigger issue, the sockets in most of the fixtures in the house are cheap, and can't hold more than a 60w incandecent. This means that I can put the equivalent of 200w in an enclosed fixture in my kitchen, and I can cheat with y-socket adaptors in the basement without worrying about things melting. Definitely cheaper than upgrading sockets, let me tell you. Granted, I have pretty clean power where I live.

    12. Re:well, by LunaticTippy · · Score: 1

      With a measuring device you can learn things such as:

      How much does my fridge use/day at setting X? setting X-5?
      How much does my oven use to cook dinner? Microwave?
      How much power does my rig use playing MULE for an hour? Idling?

      You can learn a lot. Listed power is only predictable for trivial devices that are always on, not devices with variable load or duty cycles.

      --
      Man, you really need that seminar!
    13. Re:well, by Tower · · Score: 1

      I've had shorter life on the 4 CFLs I have in my outdoor lights by the front door and garage (replaced each of them once in the last couple years), but, being in Minnesota, I'm pretty happy that they work as long as they do out there, and I haven't had trouble with them even when it is -10 outside.

      I've had a CFL in my bathroom fan/light for a couple of years already, and I expected that one to die sooner due to stress from the fan vibration. I'm quite happy that it hasn't. The other nice thing is that I put a 23W CFL (100W equivalent) where the fixture could only handle a 75W incandescent. More brightness with 1/3 the wattage is a really nice thing

      I've had one that died in about 4 months, but that seems the exception rather than the rule. I have ~25 others that have been in service for 1-3 years that haven't been replaced yet, including the three bulbs in the overhead kitchen light, which is on quite a bit, especially in the darker months.

      Now all we need is reasonably priced dimmable CFLs, and CFLs that have the same spectrum as the GE Reveal bulbs, and I'd never need anything else*.

      * - and 640K ought to be enough for anybody.

      --
      "It's tough to be bilingual when you get hit in the head."
    14. Re:well, by budgenator · · Score: 1

      My experiences with CFL have been very uneven, sometimes the name-brand bulbs crap out as fast as the no-name flea-markets special from china! The last batch of off brand CFL's I bought at Meijer's have out lasted some Sylvania's I bought at Lowe's. YMMV.

      --
      Apocalypse Cancelled, Sorry, No Ticket Refunds
    15. Re:well, by non-poster · · Score: 1

      You are aware of the recommendations for generally avoiding installing CFLs in cold or vibration-prone environments, right?

      Linky and linky.

    16. Re:well, by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well I would estimate that my stove/oven uses between 5 and 65 watts depending on if I turn the light on or not. It has electronic igniters and a fancy digital control panel but uses gas as the heat source. :P

    17. Re:well, by plover · · Score: 1
      I'm in Minnesota as well, so I'm mostly using CF bulbs indoors. I still use tungsten bulbs in all the outdoor lights. I am trying a couple of 29W CF bulbs in the garage where it's usually several degrees warmer than the outside temp, and I'll see how long they last.

      I also like the ability to get more light from a fixture rated at 60W. The biggest problem I have with CFs indoors is that I can't use them in chandeliers or other fixtures where the bulbs are a visible part of the design -- they're simply ugly as trolls. (I don't even like using the Reveal bulbs in those because of the purplish color when they're off.)

      Oh well. I wish all problems were as simple as light bulb colors.

      --
      John
    18. Re:well, by fbjon · · Score: 1

      I do the powerstrip thing. In fact, I have one powerstrip that's always connected, and in that powerstrip I have a remote-controlled power-thing, to which I plug additional powerstrips. Whenever I leave anywhere, I simply press off on the remote and my monitor, all speakers, any non-essential devices and chargers/power bricks are out of power, while leaving essential devices on (computers). Same thing when I go to sleep, unless I really need to charge something during the night, and don't feel like jumbling with the rat's nest of chargers hidden under the desk. Saves power, AND is convenient.

      --
      True confidence comes not from realising you are as good as your peers, but that your peers are as bad as you are.
    19. Re:well, by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Garage, basement - yes. Kitchen - HELL, NO!
      Don't you find that all the food, no matter how fresh, looks rotten in this light? Meat is greenish. Cheese loses most of the yellow color. Fresh strawberry jam is ugly brown.
      I know good, expensive brands of the bulbs -somewhat- remedy this, but the cheapest of them make everything look sick and poisonous.

      A good showcase of how these bulbs butcher the colors of light: Take a piece of jewelry containing an Amethyst. It totally loses the color in this light, becoming colorless, uninteresting glass.

    20. Re:well, by Tower · · Score: 1

      Yes I am, which is why the bulbs in my garage door opener are not CFL - the one in the one bathroom vent fan is the only one with vibration, and that isn't *too* bad (not like a ceiling fan or door opener, anyway).

      They do generally recommend nothing below -5F, but I certainly haven't had trouble, and these are OK to use in enclosed outdoor fixtures (no direct weather). YBMV.

      --
      "It's tough to be bilingual when you get hit in the head."
    21. Re:well, by Tower · · Score: 1

      I have a few in my garage as well (the reflector style - really covered spirals) - been replacing those as the old ones burn out. 3/6 are CFL now. Can't tell the difference, really.

      There are some globe CF bulbs where the spirals or loops are hidden that don't look so bad in those cases, and I have some candelabra CFLs (4W) that look fine, since the chandelier has frosted glass, so you can only see the tips and not the base. Not all fixtures look good that way, though.

      --
      "It's tough to be bilingual when you get hit in the head."
  11. Insane measuring by Jboost · · Score: 2, Informative
    Take a look at this and see how he did it.

    A infrared-sensor is optical connected to the flashing led on the electricity meter of the power company and reads the total consumption we use. The led on the meter flashes 480 times for every Kilowatt (kW). The pulse is counted by a Dallas One Wire counter with memory and once every minute my computer reads the amount of pulses (led flashes) counted. All the data is saved in a SQL database which I can query and display on the webpage's.
    Electrical power is supplied and distributed around the Bwired house at 50Hz. However, the wires are actually capable of carrying a range of other frequencies which can be 'tuned-in' using appropriate equipment. Powerline technology takes advantage of this unused bandwidth of the electrical wiring in the home. The PowerLine device plugs into the electrical socket and draws power for the device. At the same time, it sends data signals down the power cord. A second PowerLine device can then be placed on any electrical outlet in the home/office to receive the signal. Now any Ethernet device (internet cable/DSL modem or another computer) can connect to the PowerLine Ethernet port and create a home/office network.
  12. Easily said. by SharpFang · · Score: 2, Insightful

    It's easy to say "switch everything unnecessary off".
    Sure I do switch off the obvious things. Then still my bill is high. Then I check: The monitor (22" CRT) is rated at 40 Watt in standby mode. The ethernet switch is pretty hot. I have no idea how much the laser printer needs in stand-by, but likely not all that little. All these toys plugged into the USB hub, do they remain off when I power off the computer? The BNC ethernet wire was shocking me with electricity. I grounded it, but how much does leak to ground that way? The grounding sparks a little when disconnected. If I leave the battery charger plugged in, it's warm even if it's not charging any batteries. ...and so on. I switch all the huge energy hogs off, but there are many dozens of small devices which pull 5, 10 watts of energy, 24/7 and it really adds up. A quick and easy way to measure actual power usage of a device would be really nice.

    --
    45 5F E1 04 22 CA 29 C4 93 3F 95 05 2B 79 2A B2
    1. Re:Easily said. by Temkin · · Score: 1



      I always hated thinnet's little electrical fangs. Remember to only ground one end.

      If I might ask... Why are you still running it?

    2. Re:Easily said. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Interesting

      Buy a power strip with an in-built on-off switch. We have the kind with a lamp inside the switch that glows when it's on.

      Connect all your computer equipment to the strip (routers, monitors, computers), and turn it off when you don't use it. Do the same for the TV & stereo.
        Your equipment won't use any energy if the power isn't connected...

      When you go to bed, you notice if the lights are shining or not. If they are, turn them off. Presto!

    3. Re:Easily said. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Interesting

      Stand by mode is a killer. We all have lots of devices on standby and they each use power. I'm surprised your monitor is using a massive 40W, turn that bugger off when you don't need it, please! An example, the TV, STB and DVD were using 20W when all on stand by. Seeing as these things are not used most of the time, that's a lot of power wasted over a year just from one socket. Now we physically kill the power.

      One problem we have in the US is the power sockets do not have switches, and no one likes to pull the plug many times as it invariable weakens the socket. Other counties have switches, so it's a lot easier. The beefy UK ones are great.

      Go to amazon and look at the "kill a watt" devices. They'll tell you the juice your using from a given socket.

    4. Re:Easily said. by SharpFang · · Score: 1

      'cause the dogs broke the only piece of twisted pair long enough to reach to mom's bedroom to network her computer. Plus all the ports of the switch are already occupied by my own hardware, only the BNC connector is available. Her computer is too weak to make any use of 100mbit or wifi anyway and I'm not quite in mood to buy extra hardware.

      --
      45 5F E1 04 22 CA 29 C4 93 3F 95 05 2B 79 2A B2
    5. Re:Easily said. by russotto · · Score: 1

      If you're getting shocked from the shield of your Ethernet wire, you've got problems other than unnecessary electrical use. Something's wired badly, and you've might have an electrocution waiting to happen. Grounding the leakage current is fixing the symptom, not the problem. Fix that first, THEN worry about usage.

      If the 22" CRT really uses 40W in standby, put it on a switched outlet. If your computer documentation doesn't say whether USB gets standby power, measure it with a meter. Unplug your battery charger. Turn off the laser printer if it runs the heater while in standby. But unless you don't have air conditioning or heating, don't fool yourself into thinking all this will add up to much. HVAC swamps everything, IME.

    6. Re:Easily said. by LunaticTippy · · Score: 1

      My idiotic TV spends 5 minutes "autodetecting" channels every time it loses power. My VCR spends about 10 minutes, but you can cancel that and manually enter channels. My only idea is to install batteries/caps but that is way too much work.

      --
      Man, you really need that seminar!
    7. Re:Easily said. by batquux · · Score: 1

      Could be that you're touching something else that's grounded and becoming the shortest path to ground for your BNC connector. Instead of going through the wire, whatever devices, and the house's grounding system, it can get right to ground through you (to a cement floor, metal vent, water pipe, etc).

    8. Re:Easily said. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You could say the same thing about getting shocked when touching your toaster. Point is, there shouldn't be _any_ electricity there.

  13. Watt Meter for European Sockets? by RAMMS+EIN · · Score: 1

    Now that this is on topic, let me ask:

    Where can I buy an inexpensive Watt meter for use with European sockets? Preferably in the Netherlands, but any place that will ship to the Netherlands is fine, too.

    --
    Please correct me if I got my facts wrong.
    1. Re:Watt Meter for European Sockets? by imsabbel · · Score: 1

      Any electronic retailer has them for like 5EUR.
      (i know that reichelt, ELV and conrad catalogues have them listed)

      --
      HI O WISE PRINCE. WHT TOOK U SO DAM LONG?
  14. Opposing anectodical evidence: by imsabbel · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I had about 1-2 bulbs breaking a year.
    About 4-5 years ago, i started replacing the broken ones with fluorescent bulbs.

    Not a single of those ever died.

    --
    HI O WISE PRINCE. WHT TOOK U SO DAM LONG?
  15. 1/1000 of a KWh? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    That was known as a watt/hour for about a billion nanocenturies!

    Reminds me of old jokes about everyday distances measured in attoparsecs and the like, some were really funny. Anyone got some links?

    1. Re:1/1000 of a KWh? by Schraegstrichpunkt · · Score: 1
      Anyone got some links?

      You could probably find some on Google.

    2. Re:1/1000 of a KWh? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Anyone got some links?

      There are a couple of Wikipedia pages you might want to look at - see [[List of strange units of measurement]] and [[Mathematical coincidence#Coincidences of units]]

  16. Even for RC planes by Pegasus · · Score: 1

    For electric powered, of course. There's a nice little device called Watt's Up that you hook between your motor controller and battery and displays about everything you need to know to optimize your setup. I did a short review, becaue I plan to create a competition based on how little energy you spend on your model flying. Should be interesting, fun and educational.

    1. Re:Even for RC planes by The_Mr_Flibble · · Score: 1

      I would like to enter my bomber, however is it based on mass and size of model or just flight time/power usage ? It runs on 4 speed 600 motors and I run a 8.4v 3300 mah nihm on it. I can get it airborn and fly round the field once. On the plus side I can launch my other smaller planes from it.

  17. two cheap AVOs by ajs318 · · Score: 1, Informative

    Get two cheap AVO-knockoffs, one of which must have an AC current range. Measure the voltage across the appliance and the current flowing through it. (Note; you will inevitably be measuring either the current drawn by the voltmeter or the voltage drop due to the ammeter. Neither matters much with modern instruments.) Multiply the current by the voltage to get the power in watts, divide by 1000 to get kW, and multiply this by the time in hours to get Units. (1 Unit == 1 kWh == 3.6MJ). For geek points, interface all this lot to a computer. Since you'll be dealing with mains, your circuit will need to be optically isolated. I recommend to build the whole measuring circuit "live", and use an ADC with a synchronous serial output. This way you only need clock and MUX drive (voltage / current selection) in, and data out; you can use just one dual and one single opto-isolator on the printer port. If you don't understand the above, don't try it.

    I have also seen standalone plug-in power analysers with a pass-through socket and an LCD showing, in turn as you press a button, the voltage, frequency, current, power, time and energy consumption. They aren't as accurate as a real laboratory instrument, but you get what you pay for.

    --
    Je fume. Tu fumes. Nous fûmes!
    1. Re:two cheap AVOs by zippthorne · · Score: 2, Informative

      Even if you do understand the above, don't try it. Oh sure, if you want to be nice to the power company, it will provide some useful information, but p(t) = v(t)*i(t) does not mean that P_av = V_av*I_av, or even P_rms = V_rms*I_rms unless voltage happens to be a linear function of current. (or vice versa.) In which case you don't even need to measure both.

      If you don't know what you're doing, a real laboratory instrument will be much, much less accurate than an inexpensive device specifically intended as a power analyzer.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    2. Re:two cheap AVOs by UpUpDownDown · · Score: 1

      Actually, it's more complicated than that. You aren't even accounting for power factor in that equation, which is the phase difference between applied voltage and induced current through the load. Inductive loads (Refrigerators, Air conditioners, anything with a motor and many older computer power supplies) can have a huge lag between voltage and current. Your kWH meter from the power company knows this - a home-brewed multimeter setup won't.

      Although even cheap multimeters these days mostly read RMS values for AC voltage and current (within the frequency response of the meter, but don't get me started on that), they don't account for actual power consumed (P = I * E * cos(t), where t is the phase difference between voltage and current). Sorry i couldn't figure out how to do greek letters on this thing, so don't beat me up for form.

      All things being equal, that el cheapo power monitor mentioned earlier should give you at least an order-of-magnitude bead on individual devices, and you can make your plans based on that.

  18. I use a "Watt's Up" by bbaxem · · Score: 1

    1800 watt (~15 amp) maximum; LCD display; ampere, watt & power-factor modes; built-in tracking totals; possible PC integration: http://www.doubleed.com/

  19. Meter Actual by techpawn · · Score: 0, Informative

    A lot of times energy companys just make an estimation of that you bill SHOULD be. If it seems unually high you can request them to come and get an actual reading on your meter. If you're meter still reads high then you should start checking the things that the others have posted about. Not only may this identify that there IS a problem but could also save you some coin on the bill. At least that's how it works in the private sector.

    --
    Ask not what you can do for your country. Ask what your country did to you
  20. My UPS has a report by plover · · Score: 1
    My UPS (an APC Back-UPS RS 1500) came with their "PowerChute" utility. The "Current status" screen has a 'Load on battery backup' indicator that tells me I'm drawing 268 Watts of power through the UPS right this instant. (That means I'd burn 268 Watt-hours if the computer were to remain in this state for one hour.)

    Of course, a 50 pound battery isn't very portable, and I wouldn't drag it around to the refrigerator, dishwasher, lamp, or garage. But I'm mostly interested in the computer's draw anyway, since it's one of the biggest power drains in my house.

    --
    John
    1. Re:My UPS has a report by The_Mr_Flibble · · Score: 1

      however your ups is adding another 100w to that total just keeping it powered. Try plugging in a watt meter in front of the ups and have a nice shock at the amount ofpower you really use on your computer.

  21. usage by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Turning off your lights and computers really won't do that much. ~50% of one's home energy usage is for HVAC. About 20% tends to be for hot water. If your fridge is more than say 15 years old, it probably accounts for another 10% of usage. Lights are usually ~10%, and computers, electronics etc are usually less than 10% of one's usage.

    1. Re:usage by Duck+of+Death · · Score: 1

      I don't know about that. I started turning my computer off at night and changed 8 high usage lights to compact fluorescents. Those lights were consuming a total of 650 watts and are now using only about 165. Just those changes have resulted in my electric usage dropping by 20%. And the decrease has been seen consistently for 10 months. Unfortunately, my electric rates went up by the same amount, so my useage is down but my bill is the same. Still, if I hadn't made the changes (which cost $50 and have zero impact on my life) I would be paying an additional $350/year for electricity.

      DD

      --
      "Can I finish? Can I finish? ... Okay, I'm finished."
  22. Handy Display by bogamo · · Score: 4, Interesting

    What we really need is a display on the wall, next to the thermostat, that looks like the fuel economy guage on the Prius. On the right is the current consumption, on the left is a bar chart showing past consumption averaged over 5 minute periods. It makes driving the prius like a video game where getting the highest economy is the goal. I'd think if we had such a display, you'd keep track of your consumption, and you'd know if you were drawing more power than you should be for any given time; like leaving a light on in the basement.

    How can we expect people to conserve without any easy-to-see meausrement of consumption.

              -Geoff

    --
    Check out TrailRegistry.com, my hiking site, Maps, altitude pr
    1. Re:Handy Display by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "What we really need is a display on the wall, next to the thermostat, that looks like the fuel economy guage on the Prius."

      That is a great idea.

      I would buy one.

      How quickly can you bring it to market?

      Maybe as a kit, with a portable KillAWatt to measure individual devices too.

    2. Re:Handy Display by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A very similar device is manufactured by Blue Line Innovations http://www.bluelineinnovations.com/in Canada

      It uses a device attached to the electrical meter on the outside of the house, which transmits the current consumption information to a display inside, which will show how much you're currently using and how much you've used since the unit was last reset. The present model works on electromechanical meters (basicly counts the revolutions of the wheel with the black mark on it), but a new one will be available very soon (any day now ...) which will also work on digital meters (with the 1 watt hour pulses).

      Hydro One in Ontario, Canada has a program to distribute up to 30,000 of these devices in Northern Ontario. Pilot studies have shown that consumers will cut back their usage by 10-15% when they have this kind of real time information in front of them.

    3. Re:Handy Display by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      Actually, I was thinking it might work better with a small Bluetooth device without a display. You plug but and it will send data to your computer/PDA/phone so you can examine the power consumption at all enabled outlets on a significantly larger and more convenient (and more controllable) interface. It would allow easy data aggregation and comparison. The device could even have a memory for storing a few hours or days of data, so you won't have to leave a computer on to monitor it.

      It's low power, compact, has a nice interface, and after removing most of the buttons & LCD, it may end up being cheaper. If someone is willing to back it with capital (because affordable Bluetooth hardware happens only in large quantities), this could be a viable business opportunity. I'm game...

    4. Re:Handy Display by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Wired covered this idea in 2001. http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/9.01/meter.html Dissapointingly, the winner of the contest, the Wattbug, as well as the runners up, nothing has come onto the consumer market as a result.

  23. Possibilities by gweihir · · Score: 1

    To measure cheaply on a single devices, get a used mechanical power meter.

    For automation, it getst expensive. Basically you need a power meter with some sort of interface. I expect this to be in the $300 plus price class, since it is professional equipment and not mass-market.

    --
    Most ACs are not even worth the keystrokes to insult them. Be generically insulted by this and ignored otherwise.
  24. AMR meter by dschl · · Score: 2, Insightful

    See if you can get your power company to install an electrical meter with radio-read capabilities. I'm more familiar with water meters, which come in at least two flavours - radio read that sends a signal back in response to a message from the meter reader (using a hand-held meter reading "gun"), and a unit which sends a small packet of meter information every 1-5 minutes. Some info on Wikipedia about automatic meter reading (AMR).

    Then all you have to do is possibly reverse engineer their protocol, or at least connect a radio transceiver to your PC and program your own meter reading software.

    Of course, I think you are worrying too much about having instantaneous data. I would approach your power usage as an environmental auditing problem. Your power use is more a result of your long term habits and the devices you use. Does it really matter whether your computer and 22" CRT use 600 or 800 watts combined when you know that a Mac mini and LCD would probably use half of that or less? Do you really need to leave your computer on overnight? Does it matter that you have energy saving light bulbs if you leave every light in the house on all day? Is your refrigerator more than 10 years old? Are your appliances energy star rated? Do you hang your clothes to dry outside whenever you can, or do you use an electric clothes dryer?

    For power consumption, average long term values are more going to be more important than real-time numbers. By changing your habits and the way you use energy, and tracking the changes and the effects on power consumption as you do that, you'll have more of an impact, that will last far longer than your current fascination with your power usage. You might want to measure the total energy used in a day or a week by various appliances such as your fridge or your TV, in order to determine whether it makes sense to replace them with more energy-efficient models. Beyond that, electrical powered devices use power, just like cars use gasoline. If you choose to use them, you're going to have to pay.

    --
    Slashdot - the place where you can look like a genius by restating the obvious
    1. Re:AMR meter by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      electrical powered devices use power, just like cars use gasoline. If you choose to use them, you're going to have to pay.

      My car runs on biodiesel made from leftover vegetable oil, you insensitive clod!

  25. (cheaply!) -- Is free cheap enough? by bloodSausage · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Depending on where you live, you might be able to borrow an energy meter for free. For example, in Ottawa (Canada), the public library system has about 200 Kill-A-Watt meters available to borrow for three weeks, just like a book (search for "kill-a-watt").

    Check out the standby power consumption. I was surprised by my powered subwoofer taking 8 watts when it's "off". Along with the TV (6 watts), receiver (6 watts), and DVD player (4 watts), that was enough waste to make me turn them off at the power strip.

  26. Turn off everything you don't need by borfast · · Score: 2, Insightful

    This seems pretty obvious but I constantly see people leaving stuff turned on when they're not using it.

    Leaving the TV set on when you're not watching, leaving the light on when you're not in the room, leaving the water running while you brush your teeth, you name it, wate of energy and natural resources seems to flow in some people's bloodstream!

    And those poor bastards who use that lame-excuse-for-an-instant-messaging-program called MSN Messenger have a special way of wasting energy: leaving their computers on all the time so they can have their nicknames online. Why? Want to receive messages that are sent to you while you're not logged in? Use ICQ. I know the new version of MSN Messenger (or Windows Live Messenger, or whatever) stores messages for you while you're away but ICQ has always done it. Or even better, why not use e-mail, which serves exactly that purpose - sending messages that can be read at a later time?

  27. But I know the culprit by Coppit · · Score: 4, Informative

    For my house, A/C is by far the biggest chomper of energy. During the summer months my electric bill gets as high as $270, and during the winter it gets as low as $70. Not only that, but on hot (97 degrees f) days my upstairs never gets cooler than about 78f.

    It's a fairly new house, so I can't simply replace the upstairs unit, but I think it's clear that they didn't install a large enough one. What can I do? Put another powered roof ventilator in? Add more insulation in the attic? Put a radiant barrier on the underside of my roof?

    This website helps to answer these questions. It provides some analysis of the different scenarios. Dunno if the analysis is accurate or not...

    1. Re:But I know the culprit by localman · · Score: 1

      That sure does seem high. I live in Las Vegas and my 2100 sqft house comes in at $170/month in the summer and as low as $30 in the winter. Are your windows and doors sealed properly? Maybe there's some missing stripping? Not sure if it would help in your case, but solar screens can help. I don't even have them, though. But a lot of people around here do.

      Good luck.

    2. Re:But I know the culprit by rhandir · · Score: 1

      Possible solutions:
      Easy, focused:
      Buy a small, but efficient window airconditioner for your bedroom, put it on a digital appliance timer (not a cheap one, not an mechanical one) to come on when you come home so your bedroom is comfortable when you sleep. Reasoning: your bedroom is likely to be upstairs, you only need to get it cold enough to comfortably sleep from 7pm-8am. Ceiling fans are an asset here - cheap, and lower the percieved temperature a few degrees.

      More complicated:
      Get an HVAC contractor out and see if he can put in a bigger/more powerful blower. If you don't have enough air being pushed into your upstairs, you'll have problems. You might want to check to make sure all the vents in the basement are switched to "on". Weird stuff can happen with back pressure if you shut off parts of the house. You may also want to check to see if the stale air return vents are real. (No kidding, the contractors who built my house "forgot" to put ducts behind the return vent.)

      Easy, but expensive:
      Buy a second AC system and split the ductwork 60/40 downstairs/upstairs.

      More complex, slightly less expensive:
      Look into getting awnings. Yeah, they look aweful, and need to be replaced/pulled up/down often, but if you don't have direct sunlight shining into your upstairs rooms every afternoon, it will get a lot less hot.

      One way to solve this is to establish if your problem with radiation (direct sunglight/greenhouse effects), conduction (hot attic next to cold room) or convection (blower not workin so good)? If you live in Arizona, chances are lots of it is radiation (its a dry heat...), if Florida, radiation plus conduction (humid air holds heat good).

    3. Re:But I know the culprit by russotto · · Score: 1

      Unless your insulation sucks, if the unit is undersized, all you really can do is replace it. I bit the bullet last year and replaced my 2 ton unit (on a 5 year old house) with a 3 ton, and now it actually turns off in the summer. Still uses just as much power (maybe even slightly more), but at least it cools the place so it is comfortable to sleep.

    4. Re:But I know the culprit by Luyseyal · · Score: 1
      1. Spend some time reading up here: HVAC Talk forums . A bunch of professionals post here. Number one recommendation for a tricky problem? Get a Manual J inspection by an engineer. Tell the Sales guy at any HVAC contractor that that's what you want. They'll bring a laptop, take measurements, etc. The whole process takes a few hours but will give you a good estimate of actual HVAC needs.
      2. For you, I'd recommend moving the thermostat upstairs and having more insulation blown in before considering a larger unit. The insulation will more than pay for itself in a short period of time. In Austin, TX, you can get your home energy efficient certified and it can be a selling point for your home.
      3. Install solar screens
      4. Grow some trees!
      5. If you're looking to spend the bucks to redesign the whole system, you could look into segmentation.

      Good luck,
      -l

      --
      Help cure AIDS, cancer, and more. Donate your unused computer time to worldcommunitygrid.org. Join Team Slashdot!
    5. Re:But I know the culprit by budgenator · · Score: 1

      My wife went totally draconion over the post-Katrina heating bills and turned the thermostat down to 50, then just plain turned it off the last week in February; but the truth is by opening and closing the drapes at appropriate time you really can get the inside temps 30-40 degrees above outside without any real problems. This last 1st week of August OMG was it hot, I declared the upstairs bedrooms uninhabitable and lived in the livingroom for a week infront of the window air conditioner without AC the first day it was 95 in the living room 2 hours after dark, bedrooms upstairs were 115!

      You seem fair knowlegable, what's your opion on this, our house is a tri-level, with one stale air return that's both too small and in the upstairs ceiling, in the winter the heat tends to be uneven with the upstairs too warm when downstairs is confortable, so what I thought about is putting a second thermostat near the return set on cool to turn on the blower when it got up past 75 up there and let the downstairs thermostat control the actual heating part of the furnice. I think this would even out the extremes, but its so simple I have a nagging suspicion that I'm over looking something or everybody would be doing it.

      --
      Apocalypse Cancelled, Sorry, No Ticket Refunds
    6. Re:But I know the culprit by lkeagle · · Score: 1

      The way people treat energy usage, you'd think that there's never been an energy crisis.

      One thing people can do is to put their other resources to work for them. Most people can't afford to retrofit a geothermal heat pump underneath their house, but there's other options!

      Do you have a pool??? Think about how AC units work: they remove heat from inside of the house, and move it outside into the atmosphere. Air, being an excellent insulator, is probably the worst medium to discharge excess heat efficiently. Besides, when it's already 115 degrees outside, that inefficiency is even worse. Your compressor has to use even MORE energy to cool your home. If you pump this heat into your pool water instead, you'll increase efficiency by a disgusting amount.

      I happen to know of at least one home in one of the hottest areas of California that has 42 degree air blowing out of the AC vents on 115 degree days using only 10 amps!!!! So the temperature of your pool goes up a few degrees, who cares? Some people pay extra money for pool heaters...

      I want to see any commercial AC unit drawing 8-10 amps on a 115 degree day, while blowing 42 degree air into the owner's home...

  28. Power Angel by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Seasonic makes a device called the power angel (http://www.seasonicusa.com/power_angel.htm). You plug a device into it and it measures the power that it's consuming, and a few other quantities. I've found it to be very useful.

  29. Centameter by nathanh · · Score: 1

    I use a Centameter. The measuring device is installed in the meter box. You carry around a wireless LCD display that shows power usage in either kWh or A. I managed to reduce my house standby power usage from 0.44kWh to 0.21kWh because I discovered some appliances with atrocious standby usage; they're now turned off when not in use. That's going to save me $282 per year - I pay 14c/kWh - so the meter has paid for itself already.

    1. Re:Centameter by deepdowninside · · Score: 1

      a possible similar product of the USA can result in large saving on household electric bill. This monitoring unit is called TED, the energy detective and can be ordered online at www.theenergydetective.com It works like a charm. It does not require placing it in the meter which in the USA is illegal...the meter can only be enter by the utility company. I have heard from several people who have obtained substanial saving using this monitor. The software is extensive with many options about energy use and cost regardless of the utilities changing tariffs during the day depending on peak demand time of the day.

  30. Energy Joule from Ambient Devices by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
  31. Indirect solution by Stavr0 · · Score: 2, Interesting
    Add up the electrical bills, heating bill, gasoline and battery receipts. You then need a formula to convert monetary unit to energy. This formula should take into account the proportion of each energy form you consume. I think a typical formula will be something around 45% electric, 45% oil/gas and the rest in batteries.

    Gasoline produces 32 megajoule/litre, 1 kWh is equivalent to 3.6 megajoule so 1 litre of gas ~= 10kWh. 1 kwH of electricity ranges from 5c to 25c depending where you are.

    For Canada:
    1 MJ of oil energy ~ $0.04
    1 MJ of electric energy ~ $0.03

    How much is a MJ of of electric or oil energy where you live?

    1. Re:Indirect solution by Anon-Admin · · Score: 1

      Ok,

      2 x 1000w HPS lights == 720 KwH ~ $0.06 == $43.20 per month X 3 months == $129.60

      That would be 2Kg of MJ for $129.60 :>

  32. Kill-A-Watt by NekoXP · · Score: 1

    http://www.thinkgeek.com/

    Search for Kill-A-Watt.

    It will track the consumption of a device (or even a breakout block with 4 sockets, with this thing in the wall) over a period of time.

    The alternative is replace the power distribution box in your house so you can monitor each room's usage.

  33. A step further by John+Napkintosh · · Score: 1

    Lots of devices, even when turned off, draw power in a standby state. The only way to find out which ones do that and how much they draw is to use a killawatt or something similar.

    I'm pretty anal about energy conservation. I have nearly all of my powered devices plugged into strips. I frequently not only turn off the device when I'm done using it, but also the strip itself when I know I'm not using any of the devices on the strip. This prevents slow current usage by devices even in their standby state. Any devices that aren't able to maintain their settings when the lose power (and don't have some form of built in battery back-up, like my alarm clock) get plugged directly in to the wall.

    --

    Long signatures suck.
  34. Replacing Appliances Usually Not Worth It by dmatos · · Score: 1

    If you do a cost-benefits analysis on replacing appliances with more energy-efficient models, you'll find that it's usually not worth it, unless the old appliance is already at the end of their life.

    Say you have a fridge that cost $800 to buy, and you've had it for 10 years. If you think it will last another 10 years (not unlikely), then by throwing it out now, you're throwing out $400 worth of value (using a gross simplification). How many kWh would you have to save over the next 10 years to add up to that $400? And if you're looking at just the energy consumption of the device, from a purely environmental standpoint, throwing out a fridge only halfway through its life is throwing away half of the energy used in its production. This is not an inconsequential amount.

    While I heartily agree with replacing dead appliances with more energy-efficient ones, I do recommend some deeper analysis before any functioning ones are thrown out to make room for newer things.

    --

    It may look like I'm doing nothing, but I'm actively waiting for my problems to go away.
    --Scott Adams
    1. Re:Replacing Appliances Usually Not Worth It by TheOtherChimeraTwin · · Score: 1

      The Refrigerator Retirement Savings Calculator answers just that question. That old refrigerator some people keep for extra space can be pretty expensive.

    2. Re:Replacing Appliances Usually Not Worth It by Suidae · · Score: 1

      If you do a cost-benefits analysis on replacing appliances with more energy-efficient models, you'll find that it's usually not worth it, unless the old appliance is already at the end of their life.

      The benefit part of the analysis is not always simply savings on your electric bill. If you live off-grid or have a whole-house backup power system the reduced energy consumption of a highly efficent appliance reduces the cost of your power storage/generation requirements or extends your backup times.

      You can also consider the environmental benefit in the analysis. Saving power reduces the rate of resource consumption (but usually not at a rate that justifies replacing a working appliance! It costs energy to make the new one, so environmentally speaking you may be wasting resources by taking a working appliance out of service. You can always give/sell it to someone else who needs it though).

    3. Re:Replacing Appliances Usually Not Worth It by cdn-programmer · · Score: 1

      If you bought a fridge 10 years ago it is unlikely it will last another 5 years let alone 10.

      If you bought a fridge 25 years ago it is highly likely it will last another 15 years.

      My washer and dryer are over 25 years old. I'll probably get 40 years service from them. My old fridge has a pink steel shell in it and has to date to the 60's. I'll probably get another 25 years from it. But the last fridge I bought which is in the kitchen has broken 3 times in the last 4 years.

      Modern appliances suk.

  35. Why it is probably pointless by texaport · · Score: 1
    1st scenario: Use more energy this winter and the greenhouse gas effect rises;
    with the subsequent warmer weather, less energy use will follow.

    2nd scenario: Use less energy this winter and the greenhouse gas effect drops;
    with the subsequent colder weather, more energy use will follow.

    1. Re:Why it is probably pointless by Bob_Villa · · Score: 1

      This is false. In your first scenario, that would be true in the winter, but you would have higher a/c costs in the summer trying to cool your house from the high temperatures. Plus it is easier to add another layer to keep warm on your bed or put on a sweater. But you can't take off more clothing once you are naked to stay cool in the summer.

      In the second scenario, if greenhouse gas effect dropped, you would need to heat more in the winter, but cool less in the summer from cooler summer temperatures.
      So you left off half of each scenario. Dropping the greenhouse effect is much better, plus more species will stay alive and we will all live happier (in theory).
      If the temperatures were always 90+ in the winter and 120+ in the summer, I think everyone would be pretty unhappy.

  36. The bulb that changed the world... by murphotronic · · Score: 1

    recent slashdot link: http://www.fastcompany.com/magazine/108/open_light bulbs.html I knew they were more efficient, but the numbers are pretty staggering. CFL's are the next wave... until LED's become cost effective for mojor lighting tasks

    1. Re:The bulb that changed the world... by russotto · · Score: 1

      CFLs have been the "next wave" for 20 years. The problems with them are the same as always

      1) Flicker. Easy to solve with a good high frequency ballast, but do you think the lowest-bidder bulbs at Home Despot or Walfart are going to have one? No, they'll flicker like a cheap neon sign in a red-light district.

      2) Buzz. Pretty much the same issues as flicker.

      3) Light quality. The color rendering index of an incandescent bulb is 100. That of a fluorescent, anywhere from in the miserable 50s to the not-so-good 80s. That means that colors just won't look right when illuminated by them. And yes, people can tell and don't like it. Reds are particularly affected.

      4) Flexibility. They'll work in most (but not all) places you use a regular B-type bulb. But they can't replace any sort of smaller bulbs, decorative bulbs, three-way bulbs, etc.

      5) Switch-on delay. It's been much reduced but is still perceptable and gets worse as the bulb ages.

      6) Cost. Cheap fluorescents in real service don't last anything like the claims made in the article. I don't know what kills them, but two years is about all you can expect from them. I have incandescents that have lasted as long. That screws up all the cost-savings calculations.

    2. Re:The bulb that changed the world... by jandrese · · Score: 1

      Are you sure you're using modern CFLs? To your points:

      1. Flicker is a non-issue on my bulbs. I can't percieve it at all, neither can anyone else. Some of them are surprised to learn that I have CFLs in my lamps and fixtures.
      2. Buzz is a non-issue too.
      3. Light quality is tougher to measure. While it looks fine to me, I wouldn't be surprised to see that it's missing certain portions of the spectrum. However, this is one of the things where brand matters a lot. The bad CFLs have absolutely terrible color quality (I remember getting a two pack from Wal*Mart once and putting them side by side and seeing a massive color difference.
      4. Small CFLs are available for candelabra style lamps. I have them in my house. They were really helpful in one fixture where it trapped too much heat and burnt up regular bulbs in only a couple of months. Home Depot sells them, although they're not good about keeping them in stock.
      5. Most CFLs sold these days are instant on. Older instant-ons used to start putting out 40% of their light immediately and warm up to 100% over the course of a minute or two, but modern ones come on at 90-100% right away.
      6. I've only been using them for 5 years now, but in that time between 20 or so bulbs I've only had to replace one, and in that case the ballast had some sort of catastrophic failure. Incandesents don't last nearly as long.

      Quality of manufacture matters a lot with CFLs. I've been rather happy with the Commercial Electric ones sold by Home Depot. GE ones last a while, but they took _forever_ to get instant on. Phillips ones I only use on the outside, and they seem to take longer than usual to warm up, but I have no complaints about their life yet. Lights of America sold by Wal*Mart is pure shit. A buddy of mine got several of those and none of them lasted more than 6 months, they also flickered, hummed, and had terrible light quality. The "instant-on" listed on their package was a total lie too.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    3. Re:The bulb that changed the world... by russotto · · Score: 1

      A lot of people aren't all that sensitive to flicker and can't hear the buzz. A lot of others are willing to pretend they don't exist for the sake of energy savings.

      Light quality is easy to measure. The measurement results a couple of numbers -- color temperature, and CRI (Color Rendering Index). Color temperature can be easily manipulated by the bulb maker. CRI is much harder. To get a decent CRI you need to use several phosphors, some of them expensive. And you still don't even approach that of an incandescent. And the CRI of a fluorescent bulb drops as the bulb ages, too, as the phosphors fade at different rates. GE CFLs have a CRI of 82.

      "Instant on" fluorescents are fast, but not really instant; there is still a perceptable delay.

    4. Re:The bulb that changed the world... by jandrese · · Score: 1

      I consider the "instant on" to be valid when it comes on just as fast as the incandesant. Since incandesant bulbs need a fraction of a second to heat up, one could argue that they're not "instant on" either. :)

      Another good measure is if the bulb is on before your finger leaves the switch.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
  37. Monitoring Power Usage by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here is a site that has made me excited about monitoring the power usage in my home:

    http://www.kondra.com/circuit/circuit.html

  38. Clap on... by Chapium · · Score: 1

    This might help: The Clapper

  39. Results of detailed measurements by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I clipped AC current sensors onto my house's main lines, and used an old serial-port A/D converter to sample twice a second for a couple weeks. You can tell a lot just from the gross current draw, because most of the big power users have recognizable fingerprints: refrigerators have startup transients, the microwave oven has no startup transient and a precise duty cycle, the electric range (at 220V) draws from both sides simultaneously, et cetera.
    Details at http://webpages.charter.net/curryfans/peter/Curren tMeasure/index.html.

  40. Energy YOU use? (Vague story title) by awtbfb · · Score: 0, Offtopic

    My first thought was that you wanted to measure how much energy your body used. Ooops.

  41. Cut Power Factor to cut your bill? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    (just kidding) All you have to do is hook up a large induction motor right after your meter. Then connect that shaft to a dynamo rated for the max consumption of your house, plus a safety factor - for a typical US house a 7500W generator should do fine. You still get to use all the energy you were using before, but with a power factor of about 0.2, they bill you a LOT less! (/just kidding)

    But really - has anyone noticed that 'they' are phasing out low-watt appliances in favor of higher consumtion ones: 15 years ago I had a 900W hair dryer. When that died, I couldn't find anything under 1200W. When -that- one died last year, I couldn't find anything less than 1850W. Seems just like the W98 -> W2K -> XP expandable bloatware effect.

  42. Same here. by antdude · · Score: 1

    My room can go up to 90F degrees in the hot days. Central unit doesn't work. I heard having those mini-AC for the room works. However, I have no room for it and I am worried about its power usage for the room (can cause power breakages?).

    --
    Ant(Dude) @ Quality Foraged Links (AQFL.net) & The Ant Farm (antfarm.ma.cx / antfarm.home.dhs.org).
  43. For the true geek who needs to know his power usag by Ropati · · Score: 1

    I too wanted to get a handle on my power usage. I found this site that details how to build a complete power meter and interface it to your computer. Let the slashdot effect begin.

    http://www.edcheung.com/automa/power.htm

    --
    machinator omnis sine licentia
  44. Measure each circuit in the house by RadarMan · · Score: 1

    How about installing simple power meters in your breaker panel, on each circuit? That way you could monitor each room in the house and in many cases each device (such as big appliances) separately. I'm surprised no one sells such a kit.

    Off the top of my head, it would involve adding a small coil of wire around the hot wire of each circuit, and reading those with some A/D's (4 kHz should be sufficient). Tap into one of the hot wires to measure voltage, again using an A/D and probably a step-down transformer. Use a small embeded controller to read all the A/D's and do the correct math (average(A(t) * V(t)) and make the data available on a LAN. I'll bet the whole thing would cost under $100. You'd have a detailed break down of your monthly power bill.

  45. Ignoring the obvious by Monchanger · · Score: 1

    If you had bothered to read the question, you would have known that the knowledge seeker was already watching his meter.

    Consuption of power wouldn't be an issue, since the question was not about *tracking* usage, but rather *measuring* usage. Any difference caused by the measurement device could easily be calculated by running it on a known power consumer (light bulb, etc).

    1. Re:Ignoring the obvious by AlHunt · · Score: 1

      >Consuption of power wouldn't be an issue, since the question was not about *tracking* usage, but >rather *measuring* usage. Any difference caused by the measurement device could easily be >calculated by running it on a known power consumer (light bulb, etc).

      I don't understand - why not just look at the label on the back of the teevee, read the power consumption info and do the math? It's just Ohms Law, Power Formulas or what ever. Doesn't seem like it would be that hard to find the power hogs.

      Al

      --
      1 in 4 Maine children in struggle with hunger.
    2. Re:Ignoring the obvious by RobertM1968 · · Score: 1

      Because the labels are irrelevant except to advise you of the unit's maximum power consumption. Most consumer electronics, appliances, etc use a different amount of power depending on what they are doing at the time. For instance, your 500W stereo doesnt use nearly that much with the volume on 1/4... your fridge doesnt use it's maximum, even with the compressor on, unless it meets certain criteria... your computer doesnt use the amount of power your power supply is rated for (they use anything from drastically less, to a bunch more and its almost time to go to CompUSA to buy an new one because I've been overloading this one).

      The other big factor is time at peak current draw. (extreme example) if you leave your fridge open in the middle of an Arizona summer, it will use faaar more power than with the door closed in a cold house during a 24 hour period. Same scenario with using a stereo at 1/4 volume - or full volume over the same time period.

      And even if the labels were accurate as to what a device were drawing all the time they were in use, then the person would need to jot down every time the fridge started and stopped, every time he turned on and off his stereo, etc.

      Besides being able to determine what items in your house are power hungry, many people have found (due to mis-calibrated meters, fraud, quality of wiring, etc) that monitoring usage on all your appliances and your house's incoming line can be a great tool for creating an energy savings plan.

      For instance, using wiring that is 2-4 gauge larger (ie: smaller number - 10 instead of 14 or 12) will decrease electricity "usage" noticeably on long wire runs or runs with heavy loads.

      Cutting usage of unnecessary devices or replacing power hungry devices with energy efficient ones is also possible using such tools to create a proper evaluation and plan.

      Also, many devices, as they age, start consuming more power (especially things with motors, as the windings /winding insulation wear down and more energy is being turned into heat instead of motion).

      To answer the original poster's question, there are devices on SmartHome and dozens of other sites (including Solar and Alternate Energy sites) that will do what you request.

      -Robert

    3. Re:Ignoring the obvious by AlHunt · · Score: 1

      >Because the labels are irrelevant except to advise you of the unit's maximum power consumption. >Most consumer electronics, appliances, etc use a different amount of power depending on what >they are doing at the time

      Ok, great answer. Maybe the original poster has a much larger electric bill than I. Seems like a lot of trouble for a small gain, otherwise.

      Al

      --
      1 in 4 Maine children in struggle with hunger.
    4. Re:Ignoring the obvious by RobertM1968 · · Score: 1

      Perhaps... as I am sure is the case with a bunch of people - the effort and cost isnt worth the savings. Though one would be amazed at just how much they can cut power in their home (enough to more than half your electric bills) by analyzing power consumption and acting on it. Some things are simple and dont require any gadgets to determine that you'll save money, like get rid of incandescent lights wherever possible (switch to flourescents or LED lights where possible), and spend the extra money on a high efficiency refrigerator and freezer (they cost twice the price but use 1/3-1/2 the power). With the savings possible, maybe it's worth the cost of analyzing each device, though a lot of savings can be done without the expense of such devices.

      The devices are very well suited to determining stuff such as power loss over your AC lines (by adding up usage for each device and comparing it to your total house usage).

      For a lot of people it is probably not an issue... like living in a small to mid sized apartment with a fridge/freezer, a total of 5 room lights throughout and some small appliances and convienience items like a stereo. In a big house though, or a house with TVs in each room, etc... perhaps.

    5. Re:Ignoring the obvious by SEAL · · Score: 1

      *Where* you live is a huge factor as well. If you live in Minnesota in the winter, or the opposite -- say, Arizona in the summer, your heating or AC bill will be very high. In thoses cases, small changes like fluorescent bulbs are not going to affect the bulk of your energy usage. The best thing those people can do is invest in proper home insulation. In the case of hot locations, solar panels are a good option because you can often sell power back to the grid if you are generating a surplus.

    6. Re:Ignoring the obvious by RobertM1968 · · Score: 1

      Very good points - as well as looking into heat pumps/geothermal units to assist in home/water heating & cooling. -Robert

  46. Re:For the true geek who needs to know his power u by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here is a link to a previous slashdot article that shows how to monitor every circuit in your house.

    Home power monitoring hack

  47. Re:Cut Power Factor to cut your bill? by budgenator · · Score: 1

    has anyone noticed that 'they' are phasing out low-watt appliances in favor of higher consumtion ones
    I call that Americanitis, If enough is good, too much is better!

    --
    Apocalypse Cancelled, Sorry, No Ticket Refunds
  48. Energy Monitor by kingxiolo · · Score: 1

    I love the centameter.....www.cenergies.com in the US.

  49. Re #6 by cdn-programmer · · Score: 1

    Turning them on and off reduces life. I leave mine on 24x7 and since 1992 have only needed to replace about 3x. The last set was purchased in 2001. I remember because I hired the same guy to install a ceiling fan in my office that year as wired my garage the year before. I have not replaced the blubs yet. So that is 5 years on a set of three (3) bulbs which draw 13 watts each.

    I happen to recall I got close to 10 years from at least one of the previous bulbs. I had to replace both (I was using 2 back then) adn it was about 2-3 years before I replaced the fixture.

    Keeping track of things that last almost a decade is hard.

  50. Re:For the true geek who needs to know his power u by dfsmith · · Score: 0

    I did something similar for my 2-phase 120V supply:

    Found some loop current sensors (3 times $25 each) http://www.ampsense.com/
    Found a 240V 10:1 transformer/wall wart for voltage monitoring ($5 surplus store).
    Hooked them up to a Labjack USB (about $100) http://www.labjack.com/
    A few pages of C code, cron jobs and Gnuplot et voila!
    http://dfsmith.net/cap

  51. Measuring the Energy You Use? by deepdowninside · · Score: 1

    good question! It has been solved. the answer.....TED www.theenergydetective.com

  52. I read about a great solution some time ago by syukton · · Score: 1

    I read about a great solution some time ago, but I couldn't remember where. It might have been here, it might have been digg. Regardless, I found the link with the google query "power monitoring system"

    http://www.kondra.com/circuit/circuit.html

    It's very involved and detailed and it looks like anyone who tried to replicate the system would have to spend quite a bit of money, but then you'd have access to all of the data you could ever want about your power consumption.

    I'll include the last page of the linked site here, just for your own edification:



    Wisdom

    So what did I learn from this project that I can pass on to other folks crazy enough to try this?

            * DON'T MESS WITH HOUSE WIRING UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!

            * While my software was sort of overkill, I've got to say that having high resolution historical data for every circuit in my house has been very informative.

            * Keep in mind that when it comes to friends and family, 'informative' is a relative term. Although you might find it very 'informative' to know that your wife left the lights on in the living room three out of four nights last week, she will probably not think so. I've found it better to save my geek points for things like "honey, don't you think we should have a raid server?"

            * Just because you know how your electric bill breaks down now, don't expect to see any great savings. In my case most of the power went to my computer stuff. I will say that as a result I've rotated out some older dual cpu servers for lower power single cpu boxes and have tried to consolidate server functionality quite a bit.

            * If you know modbus and you don't need something quite as sophisticated as what I put together, the Veris board has a bunch of features built in such as alarm levels, etc. For a simple home system, this can make the software part of things quite a bit easier.

    --
    Reinvent the wheel only at either a lower cost, greater effectiveness, or your own personal enrichment and satisfaction.
    1. Re:I read about a great solution some time ago by deepdowninside · · Score: 1
  53. I got me one of these by JimBoBereLLa · · Score: 1

    I got one of these http://www.centameter.co.nz/save-power-new-zealand /centameter-technical-info.php It is great to be able to look and see your actual power consumption at a glance. I find it really makes me think about any extra lights or appliances that are on.

    --
    We have not inherited the earth from our parents. We have borrowed it from our children.
  54. network enabled meters by john_uy · · Score: 1

    is there a cheap network enabled (snmp) meter? maybe that can help us by allowing us to pool the power consumption with historical charts so we can track our usage. being able to check on the watts usaged at any given moment is good and by turning on/off devices, we can measure its actual consumption (especially the standby and typical ones.)

    --
    Live your life each day as if it was your last.
  55. Lo-Tech Solution --- Statistical Approach by dovf · · Score: 1

    This is a solution I tried out for measuring the power consumption of a single device, and was a little surprised that it actually worked (although it's not automatic, so this doesn't really help the OP):

    Last year I finally bought a new computer, but decided to keep the old one as a server. Feeling a bit guilty about having it constantly on only for those rare occasions when I actually needed it, I decided to start running Folding@home on it. But then I wondered if I wouldn't actually be using up even more energy by virtue of actually having something running, rather than just having the PC idle. So I wanted to compare the power usage of (a) having the computer off, (b) on but idle, and (c) running Folding@home.

    So this is what I did: during a week when I was home alone (everyone else was on vacation), every morning when I left the house I wrote down the electric meter reading, and then wrote it down again when I got home. During the first few days I kept the PC off, to get a base reading (the fridge, all those appliances which may be on standby, etc.), and then for the next couple of days took readings with the computer on and running Folding@home.

    A little surprisingly, the distinction between the power consumption when the computer was on or off actually showed up very clearly in the data, and although I had only a few data points (two of the computer on, three off), the difference between the two cases was much greater than the variance within each case.

    To sum this up, using a statistical approach can actually help you measure the power consumption of a single device using your electric meter, without unplugging everything in the house.

    [Just for those of you who are interested, the power consumption of this PC whicle running folding@home was 0.035 kWh. Unfortunately, the rest of the family came back from vacation before I had a chance to make measurements comparing the idle Pc to the running one, so I haven't yet resolved my original question...

    This is what the raw data looked like (the readings are in kWh), straight from my palm:
    72409.7 2/6/05 7:07 (Thu comp off)
    72412.4 2/6/05 21:30
    72416.0 3/6/05 9:39 (weekend)
    72444.9 5/6/05 7:56 (Sun comp off)
    72446.6 5/6/05 17:13
    72451.2 6/6/05 9:08 (Mon Comp on, FAH running)
    72453.5 6/6/05 19:19
    72458.3 7/6/05 7:21 (Tue Comp on, FAH running)
    72461.4 7/6/05 21:18
    72465.0 8/6/05 7:11 (Wed Comp off)
    72466.1 8/6/05 12:51
    ]

  56. Umm buy a meter? by nurb432 · · Score: 1

    Buy a cheap amp meter and learn how to use it?

    Or even better yet how about that thing on the side of your house that has the little shiny spinning disk.. Its not from mars, it tells you total energy useage for your place, both in real time and elapsed.. Its how you get billed each month. Its called a watt-meter, go figure.

    --
    ---- Booth was a patriot ----
  57. You mean 3.6 kelvin joules. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    K = kelvin, not kilo.