What Gamers Need To Know About Buying an HD TV
The excellent games coverage at the San Jose Mercury News site offers up a gamers buying guide for HD TVs. Dean Takahashi discusses the basics every HD purchaser should know, some technical issues with recent plasma and LCD advances in mind, and addresses the specific problems that gamers will face with their new purchases. From the article: "If you accidentally set your PS 3 for 1080p resolution, when the TV can only support 720p, you get a black screen. The Westinghouse TV I used displayed a message that said 'invalid format.' To reset the PS3 to the standard AV format, you shut the PS3 off. Then you hold the PS3's power button down for about 10 seconds. It will reset to standard video. If you have the Nintendo Wii, you won't have to upgrade your standard/enhanced definition TV as the Wii's best resolution is 480p. It's thankfully simple, but you get a sixth of the pixels on screen as you do with a full HDTV with a PS3."
This article totally neglects to mention any of the issues with HDTV lag. From my understanding, it occurs when the TV has to convert a signal to its native resolution, resulting in a several millisecond delay.
This can be frustrating in action or rhythm games (Which is why Guitar Hero 2 has an option to compensate for it). I don't have an HDTV, so I'm not sure how bad it is but some google-fu should find plenty more on the subject.
From the article:
Wow, this guy finally figured out what us PC gamers have known for about a decade now! Who'da thunk it?
"[Regarding the 'cloud,'] ownership was what made America different than Russia." -- Woz
After researching dozens of websites, a dozen stores, and going back and forth between different models, I finally bought an LCD HDTV last month. I decided on the LVM-42W2 from Westinghouse. It has 1080p resolution, tons of inputs (including two DVIs and HDMI for hooking up your laptop) and works flawlessly. I couldn't be happier with the picture and it's by far the best price for a 40"+ 1080p screen.
I'm a signature virus. Please copy me to your signature so I can replicate.
Skipping commentary on the Death Of PC Gaming etc., it's interesting to watch as consoles become more like computers as far as the gaming experience goes: compatability problems (never really had those with the NES), online content, weird crashes and errors. The bright side of all this for PC gamers is that we should start seeing fewer games being hobbled because people try to design them for PCs and consoles simultaneously (Deus Ex 2 for the canonical example).
Anybody know when Atari is going to finally distribute the firmware upgrade to make my 2600 output at 1080p?
Many panels these days used non-HD resolutions (stretched 1024x768 for plasma displays, for instance) or, almost as bad, an "in between" resolution. That's commonly 1366x768.
That ensures that EVERYTHING you watch will be scaled, so you couldn't even have the clarity of watching 720p on a 1280x720 set.
Yet the 1280x720 sets, with lower resolutions, cost more.
Welcome to The Market.
As the article off-handedly suggests, plasma still has some burn-in issues. If you play a lot of FPS games, you suddenly might see a movie one day and notice items from your HUD as ghostly images still appearing on the screen. Some newer plasma TVs have "burn-in reduction" or "protection" but it's not very good. Basically, what the TV does is burn every single element/pixel on the screen. Now the entire image is less bright. You won't see a difference but if you ever plug in another TV next to yours, you might notice how much it has faded.
From what I understand, if your source is 1080P (a PS3, an Xbox 360 playing 1080P WMV content, an HD DVD player) and your display is 1080i, the image still retains all its details and it looks exactly as it would on a 1080P set. If your display is 720P, it won't display all that information and downconvert it. For PC geeks, it's pretty easy to figure out. With full HD being 1920 x 1080 pixels, a 1080P set is like a PC running on a massively powerful graphics card. A 720P set has a slightly smaller resolution, and a 1080i set has two graphics cards that are half the power of the 1080P one. Honestly, on any TV in the sub-$2000 category, it's going to be extremely difficult to tell the difference.
If you're in the market, my suggestion is to go cheap as whatever is over $2000 nowadays is going to be half that price in a year or so. For the money, a properly configured rear-projection CRT HDTV is still going to give you the best display as it can deliver real blacks: i.e., no light and the nice bright whites of an LCD -- and at half the price of a comparable LCD/DLP/Plasma set. But of course, CRT HDTVs aren't flat so you don't look like that rapper on TV, so many people don't consider them. Their loss.
Small potatoes make the steak look bigger.
I'll probably be getting a new computer in the next six months and I've also been eyeing an xbox 360 setup.
If I go to Dell and spend $1000 I can get computer with a good processor, hefty video card, 19 in LCD monitor, and 2 gig of ram.
An xbox 360 setup plus a modest HDTV would also approach $1000.
Computer wins.
Step One: Get a 5.1 system and an LCD TV that is NATIVE 1080p. If you can't afford that, save up and deal with your crappy 20" for now.
There is no Step Two.
And what's more, given the borderline advertising practices of many companies, a 1024x768 display will probably be advertised as "720p!" too, even though it's really not. But because most people don't know the corresponding horizontal resolution that's supposed to go with 720p, they'll never notice.
I wonder if you have a 1366x768 display, if you could bypass the internal scaler by feeding it a DVI signal from an HTPC, and then use the HTPC to position the 1280x720p frame in the center of the 1366x768 one, thus giving you an unscaled image?
Any TV designer who automatically scales 1280x768 up to 1366x768 without an option to turn it off and just display it with black bars ought to be shot.
"Ladies and gentlemen, my killbot features Lotus Notes and a machine gun. It is the finest available."
The sweet spot on pricing right now is DLP. The latest sets (7th Generation?) are really mature. Very few people see the rainbow effect on these. They take 1080p signals and have good doublers and scalers for other content. They give you true blacks and great color reproduction.
The only downside is you can't hang them on a wall. To me that isn't a problem. I still have a component rack with my receiver, DVD player, etc in it and my front floor standing speakers. A TV on the wall would be out of place. I just upgrade to the Mitsubishi 65732 Medallion series 65" DLP for $2500. That's a steal for a set like this.
True 1080p LCDs are also dropping fast. My stepdad just got a 40" Samsung for $2K. Not cheap, but a whole lot less than they were before and it's a much nicer set.
Now Microsoft needs to get their HDMI cable out for the 360. It's my last component connected device. I want simpler cabling.
I bought an HDTV a few years ago. RCA 32" CRT, 4:3 aspect, component and VGA inputs for HD. (Apparently the XBOX 360 supports HD VGA output; they sell the cables at least.) $1300 plus a free progressive DVD player by rebate.
Apparently this set is a rarity in features found today: it can do 1080i but can't do 720p. However, it does not letterbox 1080i content to preserve the HD aspect ratio. Only recently have I been able to instruct my cable box to correct for this (except that it overcorrects).
If the article is correct that most HD programming is 720p, then the cable box must be upconverting 720p to 1080i for my set. But then I rarely watch HD content on my HDTV, instead using the cable boxes to downconvert to SD for recording on my TiVos.
Just because NTSC broadcasting will end doesn't mean SD television is going away. Most cable channels will still be sending 480i signals for years to come, and SD DVDs won't suddenly vanish. However, your TV's NTSC tuner will only be useful for tuning channels 2, 3, or 4 for RF-out-only devices.
Except, they could also be used to listen in to whatever signals they end up putting on that bandwidth. Since the 1990s I've been able to listen to the occasional voice-pager message around cable channels 18-20 due to signal leakage, so depending on what they put on those VHF frequencies, NTSC tuners may be useful for harvesting, depending on whether the content they put on those frequencies will become illegal to receive (see cell phone frequencies).
Also, you don't want your HDTV to be showing SD content smaller than your old SD set. As I'm upgrading from a 32" 4:3 display, I'd want a 40" or larger 16:9 display.
Oh, say does that Star-Spangled Banner entwine / The myrtle of Venus with Bacchus's vine?
Except that shopping for HDTVs is difficult, because most stores I've been to this season have them set up displaying non-HD content. At one Best Buy I visited, the guy admitted that their antenna didn't pick up any HD channels very well, so the only thing he could show us was 480p.
At another one, everyone was crowded around the one "good looking" TV, because it was the only one displaying an HD image. All the other TVs had been tuned to an analog channel, and looked like crap by comparison.
Until the major-market stores get their act together, it's going to be very difficult to shop for or compare HDTVs in any meaningful way. I went out to look at them in person because I thought it was ridiculous to shop for a TV without going and judging the PQ of various models in person, but I left feeling that it would just be better to shop from specs -- any subjective evaluation would have been rendered meaningless by the poor setup and conditions in stores. (The solution would have been to go to a "real" home theater store, but since I'm probably not going to pay their prices (as much as I'd like to support an independent/local, and feel guilty about it) I've hesitated to visit any.)
Everything about HD is screwy right now. Manufacturers don't know what people want, so there are products out there that are either flat-out crappy or just mis-designed; stores aren't bothering to train their employees about how to explain or sell the new technology, making the job of a potential buyer even harder; not to mention that average people range seem to be ambivalent about the whole upgrade business. HDTV isn't like color, where once you saw it, you understood the change and could go out and buy one; it's an obvious upgrade when it's done right, but it can be a morass if it's not.
"Ladies and gentlemen, my killbot features Lotus Notes and a machine gun. It is the finest available."
I just bought one of these too, and I'm totally loving it. I've got MythTV piping directly to it over DVI, my Mac Mini in over DVI, and everything else piped in through my video switching receiver via component.
My subject is meant to inform folks that this is a monitor, not a TV, becuase it lacks tuners. Makes for a great price (I got mine on sale at Best Buy for $1500) if you don't need em, and I don't.
Attention deficit disorder is a complicated issue, spanning several major... HEY LET'S GO RIDE BIKES!
The Westinghouse LVM-37W3 is hands down the best widescreen gaming monitor for less than $1000 available today. I have owned the previous model, a Westinghouse LVM-37w1, for a year now and it's fantastic for gaming. No pixel-lag or ghosting at all, vibrant colors, quick response time while playing shooters, lots and lots of screenspace for extra chat/UI windows while playing MMOGs, etc.
I use this monitor with my PC and it's the ideal screen-size for my viewing distance of 6'. I lean back on a reclining chair and put my feet up on my desk displacing my eyes about 6' from the center of the screen. Here's a good view distance calculator to determine the ideal screen size for your use case.
Notable Specs:
Contrast Ratio 1000:1
Response Time 8 ms
2 years ago specs like that were unheard of for a large LCD. When I bought mine last year the price was roughly $1,700...now you can get a superior model for $800! Amazing.
If you want HDTV, buy a separate and easily replaceable tuner. That way when the mafia...errr MPAA and FCC...finally implement HDCP it will be easier to circumvent.
More information here
The government has a defect: it's potentially democratic. Corporations have no defect: they're pure tyrannies. -Chomsky
Got it for $1300 plus $100 shipping from Amazon about a month back and I couldn't be happier. Great picture for a great price. OK, the remote is lame, but that's not that big of a deal.
You know where you are? You're in the $PATH, baby. You're gonna get executed!
Either that or negotiate a license with the work's copyright owner to press splittable copies to be rented to each Circuit City store. The work displayed on the huge wall of TVs is being performed publicly anyway.
O RLY? If a game can render at 90 fps (meaning it can push a steady 60 fps), can't the game render at 540p and tilt the camera down by a half pixel every other frame? I seem to remember that Tobal No. 1 and Ehrgeiz for the original PlayStation did exactly this, to achieve the equivalent of 480i in the frame buffer normally used for the PlayStation's more common 240p mode.
True, but in practice, it appears that the vast majority of HDTV gaming is done on a closed console. The three notable HDTV gaming platforms are PLAYSTATION 3, Xbox 360, and Home Theater PC. PS3 is still in public beta, so are there more Xbox 360 systems or HTPC systems in use?
You must not have tried to play a game published by Color Dreams, Wisdom Tree, or Camerica on a late-model NES. You must also not have tried to play a game published in one part of Europe on a console sold in another part of Europe.
The bright side of all this for PC gamers is that we should start seeing fewer games being hobbled because people try to design them for PCs and consoles simultaneouslyIsn't the home theater PC gaming environment similar to that of a game console, minus the lockout?
Why does "but it's for TV" suddenly make everything five times more expensive?
Even when it lacks internal NTSC or ATSC tuners or even CableCard slots! I can only think it's to cover the licensing costs for the mandatory DRM compatibility.
The matching Apple 21" Studio Display (19.8" viewable) for my old Blue & White G3 does 2048x1536 @ 60Hz (with SwitchResX, would like freeware alternative) which is what I drive it at. Originally released it had a max advertised resolution of 1600x1200, but today without using SwitchResX Mac OS X offers (IIRC) 1848x1386 as an option, as well as some 16:10 options. It came out in 1999 and originally sold for $1499. I see one sold on eBay four days ago for only $90.00 (pick-up only, no delivery).
Oh, say does that Star-Spangled Banner entwine / The myrtle of Venus with Bacchus's vine?
I've had enough problems with LCD displays on laptops and handheld devices that I simply will not buy an LCD television until the manufacturer's dead pixel policy is something other than "It's not a bug, it's a feature!" I'm not going to spend upwards of $1000 for the device's manual to include a note in the Troubleshooting section telling me not to worry about little dots that won't go away.
With that said, personally, I just want an old-fashioned CRT, and I've been tempted by the likes of these. No rear projects or having to rethink A/V furniture, no young technologies that have new and interesting problems that have yet to be acceptably solved (be it dead pixels or greater susceptibility to burn-in), not even a rear projection, just good old-fashioned ions-on-phosphorous, and for a reasonable price. However, I'm relutctant to purchase even these because I've yet to see a direct view CRT that supports 1080p, and I see no point in getting a television that doesn't support features that will probably be worth having in the next ten years.
And speaking of "ten years," I want an appliance, not yet another piece of technology that gets thrown out after 3-4 years. If I cannot be reasonably assured that the television I'm considering buying will neither be obsolete in three years nor outright non-functioning, my NTSC set continues to work (from back when the most complicated question I had while shopping was "What kind of inputs does it have?")
The article states:
"Here's some interesting numbers. There are only 10 million pixels per second on a screen with standard TV. You get about 27 million pixels per second with 720p, and 62 million with 1080p."
How is this possible?
Then which open platform, available to amateur developers looking to get hired and new studios looking to publish a first title, should replace consoles?
If you are looking at buying a HDTV then the following URL is essential first readingv ision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-definition_tele
For those who don't RTFA you really need to look at screen resolution before you buy. The best resolution is 1920x1080 (1080i and/or 1080p) with 1280x720 (720i and/or 720p) at the lower end, however there are variants. For standard definition you have 768×576 or 720x540 (PAL) or 640×480 and 852×480 (NTSC) but there are variants.
The bottom line is if you have a 720 HDTV then you can only downscale 1080i or 1080p (if progressive scan is supported) you cannot upscale, however if the HDTV supports it you can upscale SDTV video. If you brought a plasma saying it is HD ready then you may have been ripped off, because unless you have the HDTV resolution you most likely brought a SDTV.
If you are going to buy a HDTV (IMHO LCD is better than plasma especially if you want the TV for gaming) you need to decide what size screen you want and it's resolution. A so-called sweet spot is around 40in (101cm) in that it is much harder to pick the difference between a 1080p and 720p HDTV so 720p is adequate for smaller HDTV's. Unfortunately once you go beyond 50in (127cm) then 1080p is appropriate since you will be able to pick the difference. Of course costs do play an important part in picking a HDTV but please look at the screen resolution don't get caught with a SDTV just because it is a $100 or so cheaper.
There ain't no such thing as proprietary standards only proprietary formats. Standards are by definition open.
Who's the math flunky who posted this story?
the Wii's best resolution is 480p. It's thankfully simple, but you get a sixth of the pixels on screen as you do with a full HDTV with a PS3."
One sixth of 1080 is 180.
It doesn't matter if your game is capable outputting 90 fps or 120fps of 300 fps. Unless you're connecting it via DVI or VGA, and your TV supports refresh rates outside the HDTV standard, you are ONLY GOING TO SEE either 1080i@60/1080p@30/720p@30,480i@60,480p@30. That is all the HDTV standard specs for, and it's all that 90+% of the TV's on the market display.
And IF you have an LCD or Plasma TV (again, 90_% of HDTV owners), then it *ALWAYS* displays content progressively. Before it gets to the panel, it's going to stitch those 1080i@60 frames together to show you 1080p@30.
You're never going to see > 30fps with your HDTV, unless you have a 1080p TV, and your console supports 1080p@60.
Yes it does. If a game can draw 90 frames per second, then it has the headroom to draw a steady 60 frames per second, which is required for a game doing interlaced rendering.
And IF you have an LCD or Plasma TV (again, 90_% of HDTV owners)I disagree. A lot of people who have complained publicly about the lack of upscaling from 720p to 1080i seem to have early adopter CRTs, not panels, and a lot of these CRTs are capable of only 480i, 480p, and 1080i. Rendering 60 frames per second at 540p and tilting the camera halfway down is a way to make a 1080i signal for these TVs. Even for panels:
Before it gets to the panel, it's going to stitch those 1080i@60 frames together to show you 1080p@30.If the stitching is good, it will recognize the 1080i signal and do something meaningful with it. This may or may not be better than 720p.
The older DLPs had lag problems but not the 5th and 6th gen sets. I have a 5th gen RCA 50" DLP and I don't perceive any delays in games including Tony Hawk Project 8. The picture is great, extremely bright and great contrast. It's cheap too, Walmart sells it for $1300 with a stand and another $70 for an extended 2 year warranty after the 1 year manufacture's warranty ends. OTA HD content in 720p and 1080i look great on this TV. DirecTV is not bad after running it through a upconverting DVD player. Looks a lot more pixelated without the upconvert. I've had it afew months now and don't have any complaints so far. Can't hang it on the wall though and it doesn't do 1080p which I could really care less about.
If it's only $300 more than what I paid for a NON-hdtv in 1999 (just broke 35,000 hours used -- do the math on that one), that might actually be worth it *IF* (and that's a big if) there are NO ISSUES.
-Clio
Karma: Bad (mostly from not giving a fuck)
Blog: http://clintjcl.wordpress.com
Prism, Inc. is planning on unveiling a secret research and development project at CES 2007. A source inside the company says the project is a high definition (1080p) front projector that uses light emitting diodes (LEDs). In contrast to the LED pocket projectors currently on the market (example), this device will produce hundreds of lumens at cinema quality resolution and contrast. The best part, however, is the use of LEDs as the lamp because the lifetime of the projector is years of continuous use, it produces brilliant and lifelike colors, and it's whisper quiet. Check out Prism's projector if you're a hardcore gamer, a movie buff, or someone who wants the biggest screen on the block.