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Ask Slashdot: Clever Cable Management?

sooth... writes "What clever ways have network administrators found to cleanly sort varying length patch cables within IDFs, BDFs, and MDFs or simply wiring closets? Pictures or examples are welcome." Since not everyone is a network administrator, let's expand this to include efficient or clever management of other cables. How do you route your computer cables (internal or external), your entertainment center cables, or any other corded setup?

374 comments

  1. The usual way by Kevin+Fishburne · · Score: 1

    Usually through holes in the floor. Better answers welcome.

    --
    Buy your next Linux PC at eightvirtues.com
    1. Re:The usual way by VendettaMF · · Score: 1

      Zip ties. Soooooo many zip ties.

      --
      kartune85 : Incapable of reason, observation or learning. A kind of dim, drab, flightless parrot.
    2. Re:The usual way by zippthorne · · Score: 2

      Dental floss, the poor man's waxed "linen" for short runs cable lacing. Zip ties leave ugly bumps every length.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    3. Re:The usual way by rwa2 · · Score: 1

      Ech, zip ties are evil, if you ever have to actually maintain anything. And the doofuses that overtighten zipties do actual damage... good luck isolating that.

      velcro all the way.

    4. Re:The usual way by morari · · Score: 1

      Yep. They're super cheap and can be quickly put around just about anything, even when you only hand one hand free.

      --
      "He who can destroy a thing, controls a thing." --Paul Atreides, Dune
    5. Re:The usual way by Jmc23 · · Score: 2

      You do realize that dental floss is way more expensive than actual waxed linen right? Drop by your local sewing store if you're being serious.

      --
      Don't complain about syntax, grammar, or spelling. There is no.hell like input on android.
    6. Re:The usual way by Courageous · · Score: 1

      Raised floors are terribad. Just say no.

    7. Re:The usual way by flyneye · · Score: 1

      I eagerly await radio transmission replacement of physical cables. How'dya thing George Jetsons Janitor would do it? HWGJJDI?

      --
      *Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
    8. Re:The usual way by onepoint · · Score: 1

      very time consuming but for a elegant job I would think it's a must.

      --
      if you see me, smile and say hello.
    9. Re:The usual way by Anrego · · Score: 2

      Yup, velcro costs a bit more upfront, but pays off big time when you need to move something (which always happens more than you predict!).

      I actually replicate an idea I saw in an (overpriced) commercial product in my wannabie server room. I basically fold one end of a velcro, and secure to desk/walls/a 1x3 laid down on the floor with screws and washers (2 for each strip).

      Keeps everything ultra neat and separated (I'm one of those keep the different cables seperated types), but the big bonus is that moving something or adding something is very simple, because you undo one at a time, and all the other cables stay in place.

    10. Re:The usual way by Deadstick · · Score: 4, Funny

      I worked for years in a big operation with raised floor. The neatness up top degenerated into horror when you lifted a tile and looked underneath...raised floor doesn't eliminate the mess, just hides it from the CEO.

      Whenever a guy lifted a tile and climbed down to route a cable, I'd say "Don't you bother my pet rattlesnake!" The reply would often be a bit nervous -- especially since we did indeed have rattlers at least twice.

      rj

    11. Re:The usual way by Nethead · · Score: 1

      Or go to Greybar to get the real stuff.

      --
      -- I have a private email server in my basement.
    12. Re:The usual way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      perhaps he meant USED dental floss..

    13. Re:The usual way by davester666 · · Score: 1

      Point to point laser communication is the way to go. It also eliminates random people trying to 'fix' problems in the server room for themselves.

      --
      Sleep your way to a whiter smile...date a dentist!
    14. Re:The usual way by CharlieG · · Score: 1

      velcro is "OK" for some uses - The HUGE issue is that the computer industry doesn't seem to have REALLY learned from the telco industry - The main cables all come in permenantly bundled to a rack for distribution - thing that need to change are patched - EVERYTHING goes via patchbays - for that matter, go visit your local TV station, explain it, see if you can get a tour - or ask the telco
      Oh, and wire ties/lacing cord is disposible - don't be afraid to cut them/it - heck, when straitening a bay, you might tie something, KNOWING it's wrong (power with data), just so it's out of the way, so you can start to actually SEE what's there, then MOVE it, again, to what you think is the right spot, then move it again, and again - this is particularly true when cleaning up stuff that just 'grew' over time, and was not planned

      --
      -- 73 de KG2V For the Children - RKBA! "You are what you do when it counts" - the Masso
    15. Re:The usual way by jetole · · Score: 1

      Dental floss? I got a spool of waxed linen sold just for lacing cables for $3 at the local hardware store.

    16. Re:The usual way by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      Oh, can I buy two yards of waxed linen at the sewing store? If I have to buy a whole spool, it's not cheaper.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    17. Re:The usual way by JonySuede · · Score: 1

      dental floss is free when you have an annual checkup with the dentist. Each years he gives me 100m of dental floss and I use about 1m a week so it takes me 2 years to go trough one roll. I have a box full of dental floss rolls and I guess that I am not the only one....

      --
      Jehovah be praised, Oracle was not selected
    18. Re:The usual way by Jmc23 · · Score: 1

      ah, to live in a rich country.

      --
      Don't complain about syntax, grammar, or spelling. There is no.hell like input on android.
    19. Re:The usual way by Jmc23 · · Score: 1

      Can you seriously buy two yards of dental floss? A whole spool of waxed linen is 2-3 dollars. about same price as dental floss, for a lot more yardage of courae

      --
      Don't complain about syntax, grammar, or spelling. There is no.hell like input on android.
    20. Re:The usual way by inode_buddha · · Score: 1

      Split-loom cover. The sort that is usually used for automotive wiring under the hood. Very cheap, neat and effective, especially if you can get everything into one thick "trunk". Available at most any US or Canadian parts store.

      --
      C|N>K
    21. Re:The usual way by Luckyo · · Score: 1

      To live in a country where you overpay for your healthcare so much, that they can afford to do stuff like that and still make profit.

      FTFY.

    22. Re:The usual way by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Never underestimate the destructive potential of a PHB with a cosmetic mirror on a broomstick!

    23. Re:The usual way by Courageous · · Score: 1

      Understood! Overhead cable trays and good patch panels are so much better all the way around.

      Cold should fall from the ceiling in the cold aisle, and it should be partitioned off from the room (cold aisle containment). Heat should be evacuated from the ceiling in the hot room/aisle.

      At this point the raised floor serves no purpose, and has some liability. For example, can the tiles of a raised floor safely carry the weight of next generation ultra dense (4U, 60 drive) storage trays? These approach 2,500 pounds per rack!

      Raised floors: "just say no".

      Oh. I already said that. :-P

    24. Re:The usual way by Gyorg_Lavode · · Score: 1

      They do it because the company that makes the dental floss pays them to. It's advertising, not a luxury.

      --
      I do security
    25. Re:The usual way by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      No, you buy dental floss 60 yards at a time. But I have a use for the other 58 yards of it, one which would be difficult to satisfy using the spool of waxed linen, which is thicker and stickier than floss. Properties which make it superior to dental floss for cable tidying in every way but one: The floss isn't lost in a pile of crap due to being used once every couple of years and then forgotten about.

      I suspect the economics would be different if I needed to tidy more than 3' of cables more often than once every couple of years.

      Let's not lose site of the real point here, which is that cable lacing is both neater and cheaper than zip-ties, and since you can untie it and re-lace, is likely to have superior routing. Also, in a pinch, it can be done using improvised materials.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    26. Re:The usual way by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      Advertising to whom? The poster stated that he can provision himself entirely on the "sample" from a single visit for a period exceeding the span between two visits.

      It's pretty poor advertising if your customers both love and use your product, but never have occasion to actually pay for it...

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    27. Re:The usual way by ncc74656 · · Score: 1

      They do it because the company that makes the dental floss pays them to. It's advertising, not a luxury.

      ...but if your dentist is giving you so much floss with your checkup that you don't have to buy more between visits, what good is that doing the company that makes the floss? That kind of advertising seems rather pointless.

      --
      20 January 2017: the End of an Error.
  2. Cheap cable ties by adrn01 · · Score: 2

    If you don't have a thick bundle of cables weighing several pounds, those rolls of light-duty velcro for tying plants to stakes work great for cables. A few bucks per several yards instead of several bucks for a few feet.

    1. Re:Cheap cable ties by ericloewe · · Score: 1

      If you don't have a thick bundle of cables weighing several pounds, those rolls of light-duty velcro for tying plants to stakes work great for cables. A few bucks per several yards instead of several bucks for a few feet.

      In more permanent setups, plastic non-reusable cable ties are an even cheaper alternative, assuming there's little need to mess with the cables

    2. Re:Cheap cable ties by turbidostato · · Score: 4, Informative

      "In more permanent setups, plastic non-reusable cable ties are an even cheaper alternative"

      There has to be a law somewhere in the lines of "the more permanent you think it's going to be your setup, the more times you'll need to reorder it".

      In other words, there's no such a thing as a "permanent setup". Unless you are a sociopath don't make the one that follows to hate you and use velcro.

      There's also something I'm surprised no one mentioned yet: self signaling cables. They can be color coded and their core glass fiber (well, plastic) makes a breeze to find end points:
      http://www.patchsee.com/

    3. Re:Cheap cable ties by baffled · · Score: 2

      An even cheaper alternative for non-permanent setups: old twist-ties from loafs of bread. I keep them in a kitchen drawer for future use. These and color-coded cables seem to work well to keep things organized.

    4. Re:Cheap cable ties by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Put them on backwards and they dont have to be permanent.

    5. Re:Cheap cable ties by jawtheshark · · Score: 1

      That's what I do for personal stuff... Works fine.

      --
      Ahhh...the great dumpster continuum. Many a free computer will be found there. -- sowth (748135)
    6. Re:Cheap cable ties by sincewhen · · Score: 1

      For my cable management at home (headphones etc) I make my own cable ties from rubber-coated garden wire. You can cut it it the lengths you require, it is kind to the cable yet still twists up securely.

      There is now a thinner diameter variation available which is even better for smaller jobs.

      --
      -- Braden's law of data: All data spends some of its lifetime in an excel spreadsheet.
    7. Re:Cheap cable ties by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      plastic non-reusable cable ties are an even cheaper alternative

      What's wrong with old-fashioned waxy string? A big roll of that lasts for years... /Mutters something about a lawn...

      --
      No sig today...
    8. Re:Cheap cable ties by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Nobody wants to pay extra for cables, so no one has mentioned it. Nice plug though.

      To avoid cutting wire ties a lot, bundle wires logically.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    9. Re:Cheap cable ties by war4peace · · Score: 1

      Hey, this reminds me of my company's local management decision to get a contractor company and have them arrange various cabling that exists in the offices.

      The guys came one week-end and did a pretty good job... except one minor aspect: You don't tie mouse, keyboard, network and power cables together.

      About 3 months after this "arrangement", most plastic cable ties were cut off to allow replacement for keyboards, mice and other wired devices out there (including but not limited to drawing tablets, scanners and whatnot).

      I personally ceased doing internal PC cable management a few years ago. I'm no longer interested in how it looks like on the inside. However, my desk (aka outside PC) cables are arranged so that they are easy to move around and none lay on the floor. My desk has wheels so if I want to move my desk around, I just unplug the power cord from the wall outlet and push the whole thing away. And no dust bunnies on the floor wither.

      --
      ...gis sdrawkcab (usually not responding to ACs; don't bother posting as AC)
    10. Re:Cheap cable ties by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

      I strip open unused solid core CAT6. You're certainly to have plenty free. A 10' section costs about a buck. Five minutes with a box cutter and electric drill to unwind and you've got 80' worth.

    11. Re:Cheap cable ties by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The problem with Patchsee is that you have to buy it in the lengths the sell it I.e. you can't crimp your own up in the data centre. Oh and they also only come in black: yes, yes, self-signalling and all that, but I still don't want a mass of black cables where I would normally expect to have colour coding!

    12. Re:Cheap cable ties by TobiasS · · Score: 1

      The offer colored tags for the ends. All black isn't ideal but in practice it was never and issue for us.

    13. Re:Cheap cable ties by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

      In more permanent setups, plastic non-reusable cable ties are an even cheaper alternative, assuming there's little need to mess with the cables

      Yeah, there's no such thing as a permanent setup in an office / home environment.

      If it has modular plugs on the end so that you can quickly connect/disconnect without breaking out crimps or a soldering iron, velcro straps are the far better choice. Because as soon as you finish wiring up the rack - *something* will change and you'll have to run new cables or remove some of the old ones.

      Bulk rolls of velcro strips can be purchased in 1/2" wide for about $1/foot. Sometimes they're pre-cut at a specific length, others are just one big roll of continuous velcro that you can cut to suit.

      There are even 1 1/2" wide variants (typically cut in 12" lengths) for the heavy duty bundling.

      (When we outfit a laptop user, all the spare cords in their bag are bundled with velcro strips. Any spare cables like network or power get bundled with velcro strips before being tossed in our spares storage drawers. If you buy them, always buy double what you think you'll need because they come in very handy for lots of other little things that you never thought about.)

      --
      Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
    14. Re:Cheap cable ties by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

      I personally ceased doing internal PC cable management a few years ago. I'm no longer interested in how it looks like on the inside.

      That's fine for PCs where the internals don't get that hot. Like low-powered office desktops with a single hard drive and integrated video on the motherboard.

      But for any PC where airflow matters - break out the velcro ties and use them to bundle the cables to allow for airflow.

      (Plus it keeps loose cables from getting in fan blades and causing issues.)

      --
      Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
    15. Re:Cheap cable ties by war4peace · · Score: 1

      Bah, my machine is also a moderate gaming rig, albeit 3 years old. The internals get pretty hot. Not ludicrously hot, though, but hot enough. But I still can't be arsed to open the case and spend half a day bent over the case to make it look pretty on the inside.

      Now I'm not saying the interior is a total mess; I arranged the cables when I put the machine together back then. But I'm talking about mild arrangement, not an anally retentive attention to wire management.

      --
      ...gis sdrawkcab (usually not responding to ACs; don't bother posting as AC)
    16. Re:Cheap cable ties by ottothecow · · Score: 1
      How do you handle excess length in cables on your desk? Round loops? Back and forth folds?

      I've got the exposed cables on my desk somewhat organized but the relatively short distance between my docking bay and monitor/power means that instead of clean lines, I have all of these big chunks of cable where I have folded up the excess length.

      --
      Bottles.
    17. Re:Cheap cable ties by war4peace · · Score: 1

      Back and forth folds, arranged so that if I need a few extra inches, I can loosen the tight a bit, pull the amount of extra cable I need, then tighten the rest back.

      --
      ...gis sdrawkcab (usually not responding to ACs; don't bother posting as AC)
  3. My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    1) No cat5, I use wireless only.

    2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

    3) When it's something complicated, like using a ladder, I always call a professional installer. The satellite company always send the most knowledable folks available.

    1. Re:My 3 step process by indeterminator · · Score: 5, Funny

      +1, Proper Use of Rugs.

    2. Re:My 3 step process by catmistake · · Score: 5, Funny

      +5 if it really ties the office together

    3. Re:My 3 step process by Caesar+Tjalbo · · Score: 1

      Additional bonus if the rugs are color-coded when there's more than one cable/rug combination.

      --
      "I'm not much interested in interoperability. I want substitutability. I want to be able to throw your software out."
    4. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Never run your cables under something people can walk over like a rug - NOT a good thing!

    5. Re:My 3 step process by DeBaas · · Score: 4, Funny

      2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

      so 5 cables later you've got 5 rugs piled up?

      --
      ---
    6. Re:My 3 step process by dna_(c)(tm)(r) · · Score: 5, Funny

      2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

      The pro's call that a ruggedized setup.

    7. Re:My 3 step process by Kozz · · Score: 1

      The satellite company always send the most knowledable folks available.

      This. We had a guy running some coaxial cable back in my last house. I told him I wanted to run the cable to my corner office of the basement, where, aside from it being finished in the 70's, was in decent shape. He took a drill with a 1-1/2" spade bit and punched a coarse hole right through the paneling on both sides of the framing about 12" above the floor. He didn't even ask about location (he did it on the WRONG SIDE of the door). Not to mention there were rafters and things exposed and the cable could have been run overhead.

      What an asshole.

      --
      I only post comments when someone on the internet is wrong.
    8. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I call that a cable waiting to go open circuit or worse still a big blue flash and fire end of cable problem cus it's the end of the building

    9. Re:My 3 step process by IceNinjaNine · · Score: 1

      THIS is why you micromanage these guys. Anything having to do with cable, telephone, or broadband generally ends up with me perched right in back of them saying "I don't think so.. here's where we're going to run this..."

      These guys are generally nowhere near as competent as a journeyman electrician, and I found that out the hard way:
      I bought my first house in Arizona in the early 90s when I was a naive young lad in my mid-20s. I let the cable installer do his thing when I moved into a house that previously had never hosted a cable installation. At the end of the day he managed to drill through a power line and knock out power to half the house.

    10. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      "The satellite company always send the most knowledable folks available."

      They should have sent someone who can show you how to use a spell checker.

    11. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My 1 step process:

      1) Throw them in a pile.

    12. Re:My 3 step process by Grave · · Score: 2

      Never run your sarcasm over the head of the anonymous coward - NOT a good thing!

    13. Re:My 3 step process by Matheus · · Score: 2

      You can find a lot of good ruggedized setups here http://www.facebook.com/groups/133909986649315/

      Lots of great how-tos for doing it "right"!

    14. Re:My 3 step process by rwa2 · · Score: 1

      meh, it's OK if have a rubber speedbump over the cable too. Bonus points if you have a rug pattern that hides the bump so people go tripping.

    15. Re:My 3 step process by tomhudson · · Score: 1

      2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

      so 5 cables later you've got 5 rugs piled up?

      Nah, he just adds another room, you insensitive clod!

    16. Re:My 3 step process by mangu · · Score: 1

      You must spend a lot in AA batteries.

    17. Re:My 3 step process by Sfing_ter · · Score: 1

      2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

      As long as it brings the room together...

      --
      A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing. Emo Philips
    18. Re:My 3 step process by Deadstick · · Score: 1

      When it's something complicated, like using a ladder, I always call a professional installer. The satellite company always send the most knowledable folks available.

      Just ask Alan Harper.

      rj

    19. Re:My 3 step process by Osgeld · · Score: 0

      what do you expect, the employment requirements for these guys is a high school diploma and pass a drug test

    20. Re:My 3 step process by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      That cable really tied the room together.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    21. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

      so 5 cables later you've got 5 rugs piled up?

      Yes, where do you think the term "network stack" came from?

    22. Re:My 3 step process by bratwiz · · Score: 2

      what do you expect, the employment requirements for these guys is a high school diploma and pass a drug test

      And generally at least one of those is optional.

    23. Re:My 3 step process by brainproxy · · Score: 2

      You're very clever, young man, but it's no use -- it's rugs all the way down.

    24. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Half of those just seem to be the very people that give tech people their bad name. "durr hurr, the speakers are at the wrong angle! what idiots!"

    25. Re:My 3 step process by TheTyrannyOfForcedRe · · Score: 1

      Nah, he just adds another room, you insensitive clod!

      OP is obviously female. 100% wireless, rugs, professional installers...

      --
      "Liechtenstein is the world's largest producer of sausage casings, potassium storage units, and false teeth."
    26. Re:My 3 step process by plover · · Score: 1

      2) When I do need to run cable, such as telephone wire for my fax machine, I put the cable in the middle of the room. Then I buy a big rug, and place it over the top of the cable.

      That's just a cheap raised floor.

      --
      John
    27. Re:My 3 step process by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      Heh. I te-he'd out loud.

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
    28. Re:My 3 step process by arth1 · · Score: 1

      Rugs with cable corridors work too.

      More seriously, unless you have dozens of parallel cables, I don't see much point in "organizing" them. Cut them to the right length, lay them sensibly, mark the ends, and you'll have fewer and less problems if you need to detach or replace something.
      Plus, certain kinds of cables you don't want to bundle too tightly, or you risk interference and alien crosstalk.
      And if you have dozens of cables, get patch bays.

      Unless you can enforce Preussian dicipline, forget about color-coding cables. Sooner or later someone is going to use what they can find, or re-plug something, and it'll stay that way. Keep the mess easy to sort out, don't spend big time and money on trying to prevent it.

    29. Re:My 3 step process by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      They have these amazing new-fangled batteries you can re-use now. I think their called rechargeable or something.

    30. Re:My 3 step process by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      login required. Not everyone has a facebook account.

    31. Re:My 3 step process by halber_mensch · · Score: 1

      -2 if this guy peed on it, dude

      --
      perl -e "eval pack(q{H*},join q{},qw{70 72696e74207061636b28717b482a7d2c717b343 637323635363534323533343430617d293b})"
    32. Re:My 3 step process by plover · · Score: 1

      Unless you can enforce Preussian dicipline, forget about color-coding cables. Sooner or later someone is going to use what they can find, or re-plug something, and it'll stay that way. Keep the mess easy to sort out, don't spend big time and money on trying to prevent it.

      I think you're better off enforcing the security. Why are you letting untrained people in your server racks, much less move cables?

      Having a well structured system also has the psychological advantage that some people would try to avoid messing it up. If you've got the bank of blue cables tied off and going up and to the left, and the bank of gray cables tied off and going down and to the right, someone might think twice about trying to cross the back of the rack with an ugly black cable. If they do, it's certainly easier to follow, you can maybe figure out who to yell at, and get it replaced with the right cable. "Keeping the mess easy to sort out" is easier when it's not a mess at all.

      --
      John
    33. Re:My 3 step process by arth1 · · Score: 1

      I think you're better off enforcing the security. Why are you letting untrained people in your server racks, much less move cables?

      Because sometimes that person is me. If there's an emergency, keeping the cable colour coding consistent will not always be top priority.

  4. Pastels! We need pastels! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    Well, the obvious choice are different cable colors. This is easy to get with Ethernet cables. Another trick I did is buy a label writer and label both ends of a cable (by wrapping the label around the wire so it is a little "banner"). I do this for my power supplies, so I see which plug belongs in which device on top of the table, and which power supply I have to unplug (particularly useful if you have several hard disks from the same manufacturer, or ones where the power supply comes from a completely different company).

    Also, I have a roll of velcro that I use to group together cables.

    1. Re:Pastels! We need pastels! by grim4593 · · Score: 1

      Labeling power supplies is a good idea. I had a laptop and an external hard drive that used the same sized barrel jack. One day I accidentally swapped them. The laptop didn't care but the external hard drive fried with 19V instead of 12V and I lost everything on it.

    2. Re:Pastels! We need pastels! by emj · · Score: 1

      The interesting thing is what do you name you cables? I always move them around so "router"/"vacumcleaner" won't do, so I name my cables things like "Chrysophylax" or "Tintaglia"

    3. Re:Pastels! We need pastels! by rvw · · Score: 1

      Another trick I did is buy a label writer and label both ends of a cable (by wrapping the label around the wire so it is a little "banner"). I do this for my power supplies, so I see which plug belongs in which device on top of the table, and which power supply I have to unplug (particularly useful if you have several hard disks from the same manufacturer, or ones where the power supply comes from a completely different company).

      I label power adapters with the name of the device it belongs to. I once used a power adapter from a photo printer on an external harddrive, and that was the end of it. And I label (usb) cables at work that belong to me.

    4. Re:Pastels! We need pastels! by optimism · · Score: 4, Informative

      Google the make/model of your hard drive and "TVS diode".

      In most cases you can remove the hard drive from the external case, find that diode on the drive itself (near the connector), clip it off with flush cutters, and you're good to go for drive recovery.

      Just make absolutely sure you use the right power supply after removing the TVS.

    5. Re:Pastels! We need pastels! by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      We do this, anytime we get an appliance with a wall wart, we label it with a Dymo label. We do the same with the network cables around the studay, everything is labelled at each end with what device it is hooked up to.

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
    6. Re:Pastels! We need pastels! by grim4593 · · Score: 1

      Thank you very much. The drive works again :D

  5. good cable management by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Ensure your racks are capable of good cable management - the racks I spec always have horizontal or vertical cable management capabilities. This counts especially when you deploying racks with a high density of ports combined with a large switch such as a cisco 4510 or 6513 (or 9x3750's).

  6. Tie wraps by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0, Insightful

    or whatever they're called in your local slang.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_tie

  7. Use velcro cable ties by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Velcro cable ties are cheap, easy to use and simple to remove when required. It is amazing how much tidier the cables look when you have tied them up. It also makes cleaning around your electronics much easier.

    The best way to buy Velcro cable ties is in a large roll where you can cut off the sizes you need.

    1. Re:Use velcro cable ties by mwvdlee · · Score: 1

      I usually buy cheap velcro which comes in two separate roles than glue them back-to-back, but I've never found any two-sided velcro in stores (apart from the expensive pre-cut ones). Is there any better cheap way of dealing with velcro?

      --
      Slashdot social media options: AIM, ICQ, Yahoo, Jabber and Mobile Text. Why no MySpace?
    2. Re:Use velcro cable ties by fitteschleiker · · Score: 1

      Sewing shops usually have two sided velcro in big rolls, sold by the meter.

    3. Re:Use velcro cable ties by msauve · · Score: 1

      Like this?

      --
      "National Security is the chief cause of national insecurity." - Celine's First Law
    4. Re:Use velcro cable ties by GaryOlson · · Score: 2

      I see you like pointless, self-flagellating work.
      A whole catalog with all the pretty pictures.
      The actual source, Fastenation rolls of precut velcro, each tenant uses a different color, are mandatory in my datacenter.

      --
      Every mans' island needs an ocean; choose your ocean carefully.
    5. Re:Use velcro cable ties by houstonbofh · · Score: 1

      If you have a Granger local, you can buy the straps, or the cut-to-length rolls. I like the cut-to-length rolls.

    6. Re:Use velcro cable ties by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

      Bulk velcro

      Bulk 5" long strips about 3/4" wide

      The 5" long stuff is great for small bundles or for making a spare 2-10 meter cable look neat before being tossed in a drawer.

      There are also longer 7-8" lengths good for larger bundles, plus some extra large sized ones that are about 1 1/2" by 10-12". Those are great for heavy duty stuff such as long extension cords.

      --
      Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
  8. Zip ties. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Cheap zip ties, 2 - 3 per meter.
    Tie like cables together, (power cables all going towards the same place? zip 'em together. cables coming out of a computer and staying together for a meter round the back of the desk, together!).
    When ever you have to have something in a place that it may encounter something to yank it (like a passing foot), spool some slack at each end (but avoid this, run along walls, under rugs etc.).

  9. Unused cables by audunr · · Score: 1

    For unused cables that you keep in a drawer, use zip-lock plastic bags to keep them separated.

    1. Re:Unused cables by squeakyneb · · Score: 1

      That would work very well for small cables (or big bags).

    2. Re:Unused cables by Coolhand2120 · · Score: 1

      They make some pretty large zip lock bags, and they're great at keeping your cables from fornicating.

    3. Re:Unused cables by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Keeping unused cables in a drawer is evil. Likewise, keeping them in crates. At home I have three twelve gallon crates and a milk crate of cables. No, I don't know where anything is. Last time I was in IT I had a pegboard for cables. I cannot stress enough that you need a pegboard, or something quite similar for storing cables. Then a classic coil wrap will hold them until you need them, with no ties.

      If I were designing from scratch a home cable storage system I would hang a pegboard someplace, maybe on something like a door so that it could be double-sided. But I don't have room for anything like that :) Maybe something like a coat tree, but with more points. My cable collection defies categorization (if I see a weird computer-related cable cheap someplace like a flea market or yard sale, I pretty much buy it) so the mishmash approach makes as much sense as anything. I keep a few patch cables floating amidst the chaos so I have some handy :p

      Don't do what I do :D

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    4. Re:Unused cables by ferongr · · Score: 1

      Toilet paper tubes. Cables sit snuggly inside, and the open top aljows for easy identification of where each cable is when you have them neatly arranged in a box.

    5. Re:Unused cables by rwa2 · · Score: 1

      For unused cables that you keep in a drawer, use zip-lock plastic bags to keep them separated.

      Heh, after lusting after the $40 Lego organizer shelf for decades, I finally broke down and sorted them all into cheap zip-lock bags... and it was awesome!!!

      But then a few months later I finally gave my Lego collection to my kids, and now they're all over the place again.

    6. Re:Unused cables by vtcodger · · Score: 2

      I solution I've used occasionally for manufactured cables that are too long is similar. .75 or 1 inch Polyethylene pipe joins. They are cheap and they can hold a meter or so of excess cable neatly tucked into the join. Not my idea. I'm not sure where I first saw them used to tidy up wiring.

      --
      You can't see ANYTHING from a car, You've got to get out of the goddamned contraption and walk...Edward Abbey
    7. Re:Unused cables by squeakyneb · · Score: 1

      Haha, very nicely worded! I'll have to keep my eye out for some, I've got a few LAN parties planned soon.

    8. Re:Unused cables by Macgrrl · · Score: 1

      I second the ziploc bag suggestion, I then toss all the ziploc bags in a big stackable tub.

      --
      Sara
      Designer, Gamer, Macgrrl in an XP World
    9. Re:Unused cables by Coren22 · · Score: 1

      The kids will learn, and then want to buy the organizer when they are older :)

      --
      APK likes to ask for responses to the same things over and over. Maybe he just likes the responses?
  10. Velcro! by IversenX · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I found a solution which I'm pretty happy about.

    Take a good piece of double-sided velcro (that will bond to itself), about 10-20cm. Get a short, screw with a large, flat head. Put the screw through the middle of the velcro strip, and screw it onto the underside of your table, somewhere out of sight. Rinse, repeat.

    Now you have velcro loops that can carry all your wires really neatly, with infinite and easy reconfigurability.

    (Initially, I tried gluing / velcroing the velcro strips on. It never lasted, so I went with screws instead. That really works!)

    --
    With great numbers come great responsibility!
    1. Re:Velcro! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      We use this method as well.
      For the Noc desk however we also use document binders (clips with a metal loop to spread them) to hold the rj45 plug. One clips it on the desk (like the desk is a document) and put the cable trough the metal loop.
      This way one can have multiple network cables (different lans e.g.) hanging loose without looking like a mess.

    2. Re:Velcro! by gl4ss · · Score: 1

      stapler works fine for attaching the velcro too, easier than screws.

      --
      world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    3. Re:Velcro! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I combine this idea with split wire loom. The velcro holds up the loom, the loom keeps the cables from drooping between velcro loops.

    4. Re:Velcro! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I use this method, both inside and outside cases. Ductwork / sheet metal screws are the perfect length screw for this task.

    5. Re:Velcro! by Bios_Hakr · · Score: 1

      Cable management at the desktop is pretty simple. But the submitter was asking about MDFs, IDFs, and comm closets. You should really avoid velcro and cable ties there.

      Start with good comm layouts. We use 48-port 3750s with a 48-port patch panel right under the switch. Then, 1' CAT-6 cables are used to patch all the drops hot.

      If you are stuck with an older layout where switches are in one rack and patch panels are in another, then get some vertical and horizontal cable raceways. I *love* the ones with little plastic "fingers" that have a plastic cap over the front.

      http://www.belkin.com/IWCatSectionView.process?Section_Id=43

      Get loads of pre-fab cables in every length you can think of. I find 3', 5', 7', 8', 14', and 20' are most used.

      I have tried labeling individual cables, but I found that it's better to have a cut-sheet inside the rack describing the patches. Write this in *pencil*.

      --
      I'd rather you do it wrong, than for me to have to do it at all.
    6. Re:Velcro! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Panduit makes a couple flavours of a commercial version of this. Digikey carries them.

      Cable ties and nylon saddle mounts are good for larger cables and stuff that's never going to move. Forget the stick-on ones, they fail after a couple of years. Trim flush with good side cutters or use the cable tie tool that tensions and cuts in one squeeze.

      For things you know may change, 3m makes a nice velcro-strips-on-a-roll product. I wouldn't want to open and close this stuff all the time, but it's great for those 'maybe I'll need to change this at some point' bundles.

      Use heavy velcro (black box, electrical wholesaler, etc.) for the stuff you know is going to change all the time. It's easier on the hands and will hold up to many cycles of opening and closing.

      For managing the cables and runs, I try to group things together and colour code function. drop patches are grey, trunks blue, etc., and install the longest runs first. Label both ends of every cable. And as other posters have mentioned, restrict access to your wiring closets once you have them clean to reduce future pain.

    7. Re:Velcro! by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      I do this with my phone/mp3/whatever chargers. Works GREAT.

    8. Re:Velcro! by greed · · Score: 1

      I went one step more serious for the bundled cable runs in the basement (each run will be up to 16 Cat5 cables--carrying LAN, USB extenders, security video, and maybe even voice telephone if I get bored).

      Same idea with the stick-to-itself Velcro ties; I'm using the Monoprice ones, but the Panduit ones are much nicer (and priced accordingly).

      But instead of screwing the tie to the joist, I put in a nylon 3/4" flat cable staple. That way, I can take the tie away completely, replace it, whatever without grabbing the screwdriver. And I can use ties that are too long and still keep them semi-tidy.

      Definitely needs to be recloseable, though; my cable runs always start neat. It's when I have to change something that things get messy; with the Velcro wraps, I'm pretty good at taking the time. With zip-ties, a couple of cable changes and the rats start complaining I'm making their nest look bad.

  11. Luser alert! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    There are /. users that aren't network admins? Who let them in???

    1. Re:Luser alert! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There are /. users that aren't network admins? Who let them in???

      Define "Network admin."

      I have a network at home I manage. That makes me a network administrator. Then of course there's the server farm...

    2. Re:Luser alert! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Who let the scum of the earth network admins in? They are about as low on my scale as French Canadians !

    3. Re:Luser alert! by mwvdlee · · Score: 1

      What is this network guy doing up here above ground? Somebody forgot to lock the basement door again?

      --
      Slashdot social media options: AIM, ICQ, Yahoo, Jabber and Mobile Text. Why no MySpace?
    4. Re:Luser alert! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      the programmers

  12. Horizontal cable management by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    We specify 1U of cable management (ie, a 1U panel with open rings on) per 2U of patch panels. If you get the horizontal management sorted out the vertical is much easier. If you're dealing with large numbers of cables then vertical cable management is also needed if only to relieve the weight of the cables from pulling on the connectors. Ideally, have separate cable management for fibre than for copper. The weight of a couple of dozen Cat6 cables pulling on a fibre lead can damage its connectors.

    A label printer will also be worth its weight in gold. I label all cables that go between infrastructure devices (routers, switches, firewalls etc) and/or to servers and other important boxes. At both ends. Make a plan for the code on the label - comms room / rack / rack position / index works for me. Don't put server name or role on a label (unless you only have a few servers) as they change too frequently. The only cables we don't label are the ones going out to desktop connections because they move too frequently. Make it a recurring task in your calendar to go round all the patch panels every month and look for any infrastructure cables that have moved or are unlabelled and label them.

    I know some places that use different cable colours to denote different services but it can become annoying as you never end up with the right number of the right colour of cable and end up using the "wrong" one. If I was still mixing analogue lines, ISDN lines and data then I would use different colours.

    At home I use velcro cable ties by the dozen for anything that is likely to stay in one place.

    1. Re:Horizontal cable management by JacksonG · · Score: 1

      I had a situation where we had token ring, ethernet and voice all in the same patch frame once. Rather than getting huge supplies of different coloured cables in lots of different lengths myself and a colleague just got some large packs of very small cable ties in a variety of colours and would then just put a little coloured collar around each end of the cable in the frame to indicate the type of data it was carrying.

      If you don't have the budget for an every port live situation or you have an environment where you have multiple use frames then the cable management bars between each pair of panels and switches are the best way I've encountered along with decent space for cables at the side of the cabinets [ie don't use 600x800 or 600x1000 cabs, or any other depth for that matter, always go for 800x versions so you have room at the sides.

      Another situation I had to deal with was where we had multiple frames between end points in a data centre [don't ask - bad design!] and lots of glass to glass fibre patching. What we did was put a label tag on each end of the cable, on one side was the ultimate source/destination patch points and the other side was the source/destination points in the local cabinet so we could easily trace a cable through the mess of patching without manually tracing each cable.

      Ultimately though in 20 years now I've not found a really good way to make patch frames that get used on a regular basis look tidy except making sure the entire building uses ethernet for just about everything from telephony to the building management and getting the budget to make every single data point live [and introduce lots of redundancy] and then mounting the switches between the patch panels and using tiny 20cm patch leads to plug every single port into it's neighouring patch port.

      --
      I am not a Frog. I am a Free Womble!
    2. Re:Horizontal cable management by nurb432 · · Score: 1

      Cable colors for external and internal network is still a good idea, avoid any 'accidents' if you have 1000's of servers.

      I disagree about labeling with server name. Do both name and 'bay code', so that in case your book documentation is wrong you still have one last chance to verify you are yanking the right machine.

      And yes, velcro is better for cable if you change it often. Zip ties if you rarely/never change it

      --
      ---- Booth was a patriot ----
    3. Re:Horizontal cable management by grumling · · Score: 1

      I label with 1/2 inch labels, 2 lines. Top line where it comes from, bottom line where it goes to. In case of bidirectional links, use the majority of traffic flow as indicator.

      Print 2 labels, one for each end. Since they're both printed the same, you just have to look for the match. I'd love to build cable documentation, but it's one of those things that seems to get forgotten about over time. We do keep fairly good records of equipment interconnects in other locations, so it's not as bad as it sounds.

      I try to color code, but it can be tough to keep enough of the "popular color," and you end up hauling around a bunch of spools.

      --
      "Well, good luck finding a judge that doesn't run a bestiality site."
  13. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by manicb · · Score: 2

    I have an iMac, it's about 5 years old. The sound card isn't adequate for music production, and indeed has actually started making strange noises, so I have a USB audio interface. The superdrive can read DVDs but not CDs any more, so I have an external firewire optical drive. With a power supply. 3 USB ports is not adequate, so I have a USB 2.0 hub. With a power supply. And still not really adequate, as I have at least three devices that *have* to be on the main bus. The internal 160Gb hard drive is no longer adequate, so I have an external firewire drive for my music projects. WIth a power supply. I also need a backup drive, so I have another USB drive. With a power supply.

    I suppose if they'd made it a bit less intimidating to open and work on I could have replaced the optical and hard drives, but in a tower *all* of this stuff could sit inside the case and run off one power supply. And might actually mount consistently. Next computer: 2nd-hand Mac Pro or a new Linux build. Much less clutter.

  14. Velcro wraps... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    velcro wraps, they actually have them for cable management.

    sure you can use zip-ties, but zip-ties if drawn too tight can bind cable, and cause broken leads, which means "OH SHIT MY INTERNET DOESNT WORK" somewhere in the building. though for costs reasons I'd say go with those, the type with tags on them, and get a tool designed to tighten zip-ties so they dont get too tight. you can get them with screw holes in them too to keep them locked to the wall or surface.

    note: this is for the immediate area in the server room/phone closet

    for above the false-ceiling runs, use j-hooks and velcro straps. that way you can add cable later, and the cable is cleared from everywhere else.

    or if you have some real money to spend, use conduit. Conduit is the best way to go as rodents have a hard time trying to chew through conduit.

    1. Re:Velcro wraps... by Skal+Tura · · Score: 1

      How do you manage to tighten a zip tie too tight? oO; Are you using stainless steel ones and pliers to tighten it?
      I've never managed to damage a cable by tightening a zip tie around it, not even 20+ yo car wires zip tied.

    2. Re:Velcro wraps... by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      They DO make zip tie pliers, which have no purpose in life but to tighten zip ties. I've damaged wires with zip ties before. Some laptop power cables in particular have very soft jackets.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    3. Re:Velcro wraps... by onepoint · · Score: 1

      Velcro wrap works very well, my set up is real simple when running cable and it's worked since I discovered velcro.

      all I need is velcro, white tape, stapler and sharpe pen red.
      I velcro one end, fold piece of white tape over it self, write a number or code, staple to the velcro, finish that end... do the same on the other end. now from start to finish i know where everything is. Also it does not hurt to have a little book in the room where you mention what numbers go to what areas ( don't forget to date it, that helps finding old wires )

      given, I never had more than 180 wires in a cable room but it's worked consistently and the staple trick I learned when a room overheated and the tapes all fell off.

      as you get better with this, you discover that tie's are only good for the first 10 feet to make everything look nice for the public, since you can quickly cut them, get to your problem cable, resolve problem, re-tie, clean up and vanish. I like everything to be velcroed that's hanging in the crawl/overhead spaces. quickly open, quickly close and keep moving.

      at the end of the day, some pencil headed boss will look at the work you did, pat you on the back for doing a good job and give you a cold beer.

      --
      if you see me, smile and say hello.
    4. Re:Velcro wraps... by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

      Even if you don't damage the cables, if you pull them too tight, there's no way to cut them off without cutting through one or more of the cables in the bundle.

    5. Re:Velcro wraps... by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      True, but you can almost always jimmy them open with a pointy knife. Or if you have a hammer, and a paperclip, and a sidewalk, you can fashion a Suitable Tool, as they say in the auto industry ;)

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    6. Re:Velcro wraps... by plover · · Score: 1

      It depends largely on the physical properties of the cable being tied. The softer the plastic of the outer insulation, the easier it is to damage. Wires designed for use in automotive or machinery applications are made with tough insulation to protect against vibration damage. Many types of cable sheaths include internal fibers to increase the physical strength, or maintain the shape and stability of the cable's cross section.

      High performance cabling such as Cat 5e / Cat 6 is engineered so that all conductors work together to carry the signal successfully. They're not just simple conductors like telephone wire, and that's why you need Cat 5e and not telephone wire for Ethernet. The insulation properties can remain intact and the wire can still conduct electricity, but the cable can be invisibly damaged in terms of its high speed characteristics such as crosstalk prevention. Look up the specifications on your wire's minimum bend radius and maximum pull tension. Pinching the cable bundle too tight could cause a problem with operating at gigabit speeds, but it might work fine at 10MHz speeds.

      --
      John
    7. Re:Velcro wraps... by Lotana · · Score: 1

      at the end of the day, some pencil headed boss will look at the work you did, pat you on the back for doing a good job and give you a cold beer.

      Could someone mod that post 5 Funny. Been a long time since I laughed so hard.

    8. Re:Velcro wraps... by unitron · · Score: 1

      Or you can use the teeny little flat blade screwdrivers that used to come with higher end phonograph cartridges.

      --

      I see even classic Slashdot is now pretty much unusable on dial up anymore.

  15. I have another, related question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Interesting

    How do you manage the pile of external power supplies for hard disks, routers, switches, phones, etc.? Is there some way to power external computer peripherals from the ATX power supply? I have a bunch of 12V 2A wall warts that keep drawing power even when the attached device is off. I think I should be able to power these devices from the ATX 12V rail, but I can't seem to find a product that allows me to safely attach external devices to the internal power supply.

    1. Re:I have another, related question: by KingAlanI · · Score: 1

      I minimize that issue rather than eliminate it.
      I simply have all of my power cords (tower, monitor, router, printer) plugged into a surge protector which is then plugged into the wall.
      However, I once opened an external hard drive enclosure and put the actual drive inside the tower. There it's hooked up like any other external part.

      Are devices that draw power via USB any easier for you?

      --
      I listen to both RIAA and non-RIAA stuff if I like the music, tangential business/politics nonwithstanding.
    2. Re:I have another, related question: by plover · · Score: 1

      I know exactly what you want, because I wanted them too. I really wanted to get rid of my collection of wall warts and replace them all with some unified wiring system. My power supply is rated to handle all the accessories I have plugged in, so it's not a question of capacity. Unfortunately, I have never found anyone selling 4-pin Molex to coaxial power plug type adapters. So I made do with house current solutions, like everyone else.

      A few years ago I got sick of the rat's nest of wires beneath my desk, so I took a lazy Sunday afternoon to address the problem. I first used a labeler to mark every power brick with the name of the device it was powering. I then unplugged everything from everything, and moved all of it away from under and on top of the desk, completely opening the space. I bought two 12-outlet power strips of the industrial kind that use ordinary duplex outlets mounted inside a plain steel box. The spacing between outlets is large enough for most power bricks. I then screw mounted the strips high up under the desk, and have one plugged into the UPS, while the other isn't. Another label identifies the one that is battery powered. The wires from each are routed to the individual devices, in bundles through the holes in the desktop. The slack of each is bound up with a black twist tie near the transformer.

      Because it's dark under the desk, I clipped a small $10 clip-on reading light from Target (the kind with the wheeled switch on the cord) to the underside of the desk, and can turn it on whenever I'm working down there. It really helps. Even with my old eyes, I can easily read the faint markings and see the colors of the audio connector plugins.

      I have all the wires to the back of the PC routed and velcroed together so I can slide the whole cabinet in and out from under the desk without straining any of them (except for two peripherals with wires that are too short.)

      I mounted a third power strip to the inside wall of the hutch over the monitor, where it is mostly out of sight, and I use its outlets for temporary devices such as camera chargers, family PC's being repaired, etc.

      It's occasionally devolved over time as devices have come and gone and I didn't take the care to bundle things up nicely in their wake. Earlier this year I got sick of it again and did a bit of tidying up, but it was much easier this time. I just had to retie a few bundles and all was clean again.

      --
      John
    3. Re:I have another, related question: by KingAlanI · · Score: 1

      There it's hooked up like any *internal* part, sorry.

      --
      I listen to both RIAA and non-RIAA stuff if I like the music, tangential business/politics nonwithstanding.
    4. Re:I have another, related question: by awshidahak · · Score: 1

      I don't know of anything that does exactly what you say, but this will help you somewhat with the power savings. If you take all of those wall warts and plug them into a power squid, you can cut power off to all of them when your computer's off by switching off the squid. Not the most helpful of solutions, I know, but it will at least do something about residual power drain.

    5. Re:I have another, related question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This is the system I use, and it works well enough for me for peripherals such as drive docks and LCD screens. Usual disclaimer about electrocution etc. etc. being your fault.

      Grab a spare blanking plate for an expansion card from your PC's case and drill a hole in it. Put a rubber grommit in the hole so that it doesn't cut through the cable.
      Next, cut the cable off the wall wart and feed it through the hole in your blanking plate. Solder the other side to a e.g. molex connector, making sure you get the polarity right. Then all you need to do is plug the molex connector into your power supply and the peripheral will only be powered when your PC is on.

    6. Re:I have another, related question: by Sakse · · Score: 1

      You can find some master/slave power strips that only gives power to the slave outputs if the master output is drawing more than a certain amount of power.
      Put your computer on the master output and the monitor/printer/whatever on the slave outputs.
      When you then suspend or turn off the computer, the peripherals power down.

      --
      Fast, Soon, Correct. Pick 2.
    7. Re:I have another, related question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Put all the wall warts on a separate plug strip and turn it off when not in use.

      If you are comfortable building cables and harnesses there are pass-through expansion slot cover plates that have a HDD (PATA style) power connector (or you can make your own) that you can build a custom distribution panel with. I would strongly recommend that you verify that your PSU can handle the extra load you are putting on your 12V rail before doing this however.

      Alternately, you can just buy an extra power supply and rig it up in an external box as a bench supply (using this site http://www.instructables.com/id/ATX--%3E-Lab-Bench-Power-Supply-Conversion/ as a guide). Since you are only running peripherals on it and not the entire system you should be able to use a somewhat smaller PSU as the load should not be as great. Build custom cables to match the connectors on your peripherals and use matching jack and connectors on the PSU end to avoid destroying the original wall warts (you might need them someday). Again, turn it off when not in use. As a bonus you get a 5V output that you can use to power USB chargers as well.

    8. Re:I have another, related question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      APC has a feature on some of their UPC's that can use one of the power outlets as a master. If it detects that the power is turned off on that master it will also shut the power off to a set of the other plugs. In the case of the UPC ES-750 under my desk, it has 3 outlets that can be controlled by the master.

    9. Re:I have another, related question: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How do you manage the pile of external power supplies for hard disks, routers, switches, phones, etc.? Is there some way to power external computer peripherals from the ATX power supply? I have a bunch of 12V 2A wall warts that keep drawing power even when the attached device is off. I think I should be able to power these devices from the ATX 12V rail, but I can't seem to find a product that allows me to safely attach external devices to the internal power supply.

      I use an external pci power bracket for getting the power outside the case. Then making some cables with molex connectors, some crimpers and the connector from the old wall wart. Wouldn't believe how many devices work on 9v or 16v though, so I don't have that set up anymore :P

  16. I Don't!!! by konmpar · · Score: 1

    Simple, i don't!

    lets say i have a corner in my room that never approach or mess with! never! and every new cable is passing through this corner.

    simple as that!

    --
    //LIFE WOULD BE EASIER IF I HAD THE SOURCE CODE!
    1. Re:I Don't!!! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "my" room. Cute. Pro-top, it's not "your" room, it's your parents'.

  17. Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by operator_error · · Score: 1, Interesting

    http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=plastic+spiral+cable+wrap
    Used to group sets of cables, relatively discretely.

    1. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

      FYI, don't use lmgtfy in links. The WHOLE POINT of links is to assist people in locating information, and you're kind of being a dick who can't use the web by NOT providing that assistance (no offense, it applies to us all). So providing that assistance indirectly, with a slow, tedious lmgtfy link is almost as bad.

    2. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by drinkypoo · · Score: 2

      spiral wrap sucks ass for anything you will touch more than once. might as well zip tie it, at least you can clip those off fast.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    3. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by RedHat+Rocky · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Agreed, really long runs of spiral wrap is no good.

      Secret:
      Use 2 inch lengths of spiral wrap, every foot or whatever makes sense.

      Easy to add new cables, remove old without disturbing the bundle (unwrap one half, add/subtract, rewrap, repeat on other half).

      --
      Anything is possible given time and money.
    4. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      IMO, you complain for the wrong reason, but you're correct calling out the inappropriate use of lmgtfy.

      lmgtfy is appropriate for lame questions such as "can I use plastic spiral cable wrap?" However, using lmgtfy simply to indicate another viable option, which the parent poster did, is inappropriate, and a simple mentioning of same would have sufficed.

      I tell this to teachers all the time. When they ask "what is blah?" I say, "OK, well, for starters, what does a web search engine tell you?"

    5. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you use a lmgtfy link when no one asked a question, you just look like a douche.

    6. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yes.

    7. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by screwdriver · · Score: 1

      But what if, when searching for something on google, it links to an article with a lmgtfy link. I can't count the number of times I searched for something on google only to be linked to a forum where the respondents all tell the poster to "just google it".

    8. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Do not use this shit - either the cable wrap or the cinch ties - in a server room. Please.

      It may look nice, and for applications where "this looks really neatly done", that's important. A server room or a networking rack is not one of these places. In such places, it will only get in the way, turning a quick job into a lengthy one.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    9. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The WHOLE POINT of links is to assist people in locating information, and you're kind of being a dick who can't use the web by NOT providing that assistance (no offense, it applies to us all). So providing that assistance indirectly, with a slow, tedious lmgtfy link is almost as bad.

      http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Trolling

    10. Re:Do not forget Plastic Spiral Cable Wrap! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Get a load of this douche (no offense).

  18. Cable... Management? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Twist-ties and duct tape. What else would you need?

  19. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    And if your microphone in your iMac breaks, you have to give your entire computer to Apple for repair ;)

  20. Don't, you make it hard for the next guy to fix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Keep them relatively neat in the patch panel, but overly tidy and cables that have been bundled together with cable ties are a troubleshooting nightmare. Having both vertical and horizontal cable management helps... You shouldn't plan for the cables to be there forever because they won't be. Something will break and someone will go a patching or you will upgrade the switch and so on and so forth.

  21. The plastic solution... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Self adhesive cable tie holders + cable ties + twist-lock cable ties.

    Stick tie-holders to available suface (desk), zip-tie cable rings in, put wire in ring, twist to lock.

    Vary recipe components to suit cable amount and diameter.
    Granted, it adds a level of indirection (I think you can get self-adhesive twist-lock ties), but increases maintainability, because you can switch to bigger twist-lock ties easily.

  22. Cable management thoughts by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Zip ties and twisty ties are evil. Your successor will hate you if you use those to manage your cabling. When you need to reorganize a cabinet and everything is zip tied together it becomes a nightmare.

    Use Velcro. End of story.

    Also cabling by coloring is a great idea if all of the admins on your team aren't color blind...

    1. Re:Cable management thoughts by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      using scissors is just too damned hard

    2. Re:Cable management thoughts by CnlPepper · · Score: 1

      Wonderful until someone accidentally nicks one of the cables, I've seen it happen more than once. Velcro is the way to go.

      Also cable ties are not recommended for Fibre optic cabling as they can, particularly if applied too tight, result in damage to the bundle. Velcro ties do not have this problem as they are more pliable and it is difficult to exert excessive force.

  23. Cable snake by mjwx · · Score: 1

    Velcro wrap, also cable snakes for professional jobs. People dont care about seeing cables, they just want them out of the way. A short length of cable snake does just that. Clients are almost always happy to see one big cable snake then 6 or 7 smaller power/network/video cables.

    As for home, I use the cable ties that came in the box at strategic points. Occasionally sticky tape but normally I cant be arsed.

    --
    Calling someone a "hater" only means you can not rationally rebut their argument.
    1. Re:Cable snake by Skal+Tura · · Score: 1

      Cable snake seems expensive and clumsy compared to spiral cable binder/wrapper, which is cheap and easy :)

    2. Re:Cable snake by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Easy until the first time you have to undo 6 feet of the bloody stuff. NEVER use that plastic spiral crap!

    3. Re:Cable snake by mjwx · · Score: 1

      Cable snake seems expensive and clumsy compared to spiral cable binder/wrapper, which is cheap and easy :)

      You can get it a lot cheaper then that, especially if you can get trade prices, the link was merely an example.

      --
      Calling someone a "hater" only means you can not rationally rebut their argument.
  24. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by hairyfeet · · Score: 1

    Yeah if you like throwing away money! my PC is going on 3 years old now, its gone from a dual to a quad, gone from 2Gb to 4Gb to 8Gb of RAM, gone from IGP to HD4650 to HD4850, and from a 500Gb to 2 500Gb to 1Tb to 3Tb of HDD. For you to do the same you would have had to toss your machine at least twice, possibly more. Talk about wasteful!

    The easiest and cheapest way if the wires aren't needing to be moved is simple plastic zip ties. they are dirt cheap, once in place won't be coming off, and can quickly clean up even the biggest mess. And I should know as having a 4 port KVM switch does tend to get messy. But by having them zip tied there is only a single KVM cable neatly tucked under my table for when I want to play with a machine not on my network, everything else is zip tied to the back of the desk. easy peasy.

    --
    ACs don't waste your time replying, your posts are never seen by me.
  25. Labelling cables by mwvdlee · · Score: 1

    A short length of scotch tape or painters' tape at either end of the cable allows easy labelling of cables.

    --
    Slashdot social media options: AIM, ICQ, Yahoo, Jabber and Mobile Text. Why no MySpace?
    1. Re:Labelling cables by bernywork · · Score: 1

      Silver Fox have a great range of products:

      http://www.silfox.com/store/labelling-solutions

      The ones I use most are the ones you can feed through a laser printer:

      http://www.silfox.com/store/labelling-solutions/cable-labels/wrap-around-cable-labels/laser.aspx

      --
      Curiosity was framed; ignorance killed the cat. -- Author unknown
    2. Re:Labelling cables by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      Both of those tapes are specifically designed for easy removal. Do you really think they're still going to be attached a year or two later when you have to do something with the setup?

      Surely there's a label printer out there that just prints directly to the cable...

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    3. Re:Labelling cables by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      if you're going to use crappy tape like that (which will dry out and eventually disintegrate) you might as well print paper avery labels. Or you could get a label maker and print UV-stabilized, long-living labels that will actually last as long as the cable. If I go into one more equipment room and see the disintegrated pieces of all the cable labels on the floor, I may scream and asplode.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    4. Re:Labelling cables by BillX · · Score: 1

      Be careful with tape; many kinds don't hold up well over time. In my electronics lab we now have a hardline no-tape-on-cables policy after too many people have grabbed whatever tape was handy (usually electrical, masking or duct) tape to label a cable or mark matching ends. After a while it invariably comes off and leaves the cable end permanently sticky and gooey.

      --
      Caveat Emptor is not a business model.
    5. Re:Labelling cables by plover · · Score: 1

      Agreed. The right kind of labeling tape is really important, as is the marking pen you use. Some inks fade remarkably quickly over time, or are dissolved by the solvents evaporating from the adhesives. Even if that crappy painter's masking tape magically holds for ten years, you still can't read if the coax is going to the bedroom or the kitchen.

      You can buy little booklets of purpose made cable labels, which are good for letters and digits, but not for descriptions or names. They're very cheap and portable, you can keep a supply in your toolbox, and they work great for tagging the in-wall socket ends of the cables as well as the sockets themselves.

      If you're doing a lot of work in one area, or don't mind carrying a label printer with you, get something like a Brother P-Touch labeler. They make ruggedized portable printers that you can toss in your toolbox. Get tape that begins with the letters TZFX. It's the flexible ID labeling tape recommended for cables. It's suitable for flagging as well as sticking to itself if you have to wrap it around a cable you have yet to pull.

      One more hint: if you have to trim the wires in the outlet boxes, be sure to add new labels to the part of the cable you won't be trimming before you cut them all short. Yes, that was another time I felt stupid.

      --
      John
    6. Re:Labelling cables by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

      One option for smaller setups is colored electrical tape at the cable ends. Such as blue/blue, yellow/red, etc (you can easily get 7 different colors of 1/4" electrical tape and that combined with the color of the cable allows for enough variation).

      So now you need to find the grey wire with blue/green on the end and find the other end which also has blue/green and is a grey cable.

      (Not necessarily good for those who are color blind - but it's cheap and reasonably foolproof.)

      --
      Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
    7. Re:Labelling cables by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      I got a brother P-touch that only takes TZ tapes for $5 at a yard sale a month ago or so :) I used to have a bigger, fancier one, but some former housemate stole it from me. I think I know which one, but I'm not sure. Pretty sure I know which one stole my vinyl, too. A couple of people who each think they're highly principled, no less. Keep your friends close, and your label maker closer.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    8. Re:Labelling cables by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Masking tape + permanent marker.

      Fucking around with labeling machines and whatever other gimmicks Berny is hawking on his website is only for people who want to get fired for wasting time and money.

    9. Re:Labelling cables by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You can use tape for a temporary solution, but my writing sucks and eventually it wears off or it tears. If you are going to keep it for a while, I'd recommend a p-touch or other label maker. The labels that it produces are pretty durable. And you can print 2 as easily as 1, and so you can label both ends exactly the same.

    10. Re:Labelling cables by bernywork · · Score: 1

      *shakes head* When you get a clue, come back and talk. Look at what happens in large data centres (1000s of racks), and have a think about why they do it.

      --
      Curiosity was framed; ignorance killed the cat. -- Author unknown
    11. Re:Labelling cables by unitron · · Score: 1

      At least you can clean the goo off with paper towels and WD-40.

      --

      I see even classic Slashdot is now pretty much unusable on dial up anymore.

  26. Small tips by jones_supa · · Score: 1

    Check if some kind of frame runs under your table - you can zip-tie all sorts of stuff to it, such as a laptop power supply. Try also not to leave cables lying on floor, as they collect dust.

  27. Art by EnsilZah · · Score: 1

    In my case I just connect one end to one device, the other end to the other, keep adding stuff as needed and then charge admittance as installation art.

    1. Re:Art by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      In my case I just connect one end to one device, the other end to the other, keep adding stuff as needed and then charge admittance as installation art.

      Looks like the back of my entertainment center (as good of a pic as I can get)

    2. Re:Art by BillX · · Score: 1

      Is it a camera artifact or is that shelf actually sagging from the weight of all those monitors? :p

      --
      Caveat Emptor is not a business model.
    3. Re:Art by EnsilZah · · Score: 1

      There is indeed a little bend to it.
      Also the wooden blocks holding it up on the left are half in the air over the edge there.

  28. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by shitzu · · Score: 1

    I have not seen a broken microphone in my 20 year IT career.

  29. Loads of cable ties! by SplatMan_DK · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I think cable ties are a great way to reduce the chaos in a pile of spaghetti-style cables.

    Some people dislike them, but I think they are just not accustomed to using them. Proper use of cable ties means you are not afraid to use a LOT of them, and also not afraid of cutting them open when you need to change someting. I keep a cheap diagonal cutter and a bag of assorted cable ties in every desk drawer in my house (3 "kits" in total).

    Its easy to work with, extremely flexible, and best of all: cheaper than most of the fancy "solutions" you can buy.

    Just stop being afraid of cutting them open when you need to!

    - Jesper

    --
    My security clearance is so high I have to kill myself if I remember I have it...
    1. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm a network administrator, I use cables ties...often. I used to work for a company that does wiring harnesses, we used them every minute of every hour of every day.

      Forget about cable ties, you want velcro ties: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6 or http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052003&p_id=5815&seq=1&format=2

      THOSE are what we use when we have semi permanent installations like network closest's where things may be changed or around desks. Cable ties are reserved for absolutely permanent installations (like running network cables to a new room/rooms/building).

    2. Re:Loads of cable ties! by vlm · · Score: 1

      How do you deal with the sharp edges on the cut? Categorically snip everything if you're gonna touch it in any fashion?

      Just stop being afraid of cutting them open when you need to!

      Oh there's plenty of cutting open involved, mostly of your hands...

      A tool that burned the end off would probably be safer, other than the plastic fumes.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    3. Re:Loads of cable ties! by rathaven · · Score: 1


      I'm not convinced. I often use cable ties but I use them as a last resort or a short term measure where, IMHO, decent structured cable management has not been put in place.

      I find that cable ties are just another thing to get cables caught on and to cut your hands to shreds when feeling around in the mass of cables to find the one you want with the way people cut the excess tie length off leaving sharp ends. Cable tray and velcro, vertical cable rings, horizontal cable management bars, well defined cable routes recognising the choke points and planning for management of it, using the right length cable for the job and well labelled cables are the real tools for good cable management. My advice is to never skimp on cable management or practice and to be strict with people doing cabling (including yourself) to ensure what is done meets the standards you set yourself or others.

    4. Re:Loads of cable ties! by rolfwind · · Score: 1

      Velcro ties do something similiar, are reusable, cheap as well. The proble with your basic cable tie comes when you need to add or change a cable. If it's a medium size, you need quite a decent cutter, and then you need to cut them all and used new ones - when adding cables, I've seen people forgo the cutting step and just add more and more cable ties around the existing bundle, it becomes a nightmare if you need to access one in the middle.

    5. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Ja'Achan · · Score: 1

      I haven't tried this, but wiki says you can "open without cutting it, the ratchet box can be crushed vertically using pliers.".

    6. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Skal+Tura · · Score: 1

      Diagnocal / side cutters are way safer than any burning method. If it burns the zip/lock it can burn the cable.

      You can remove the locker, or directly cut the tie. You just keep your eyes open and no wires cut, no hands cut :) and the cutting portion of those is so small anyways they are quite safe, unless your fingers are the size of ethernet cable.

      In any case, if you are unable to use side cutters safely, you maybe shouldn't touch any kind of tools.

    7. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How do you deal with the sharp edges on the cut? Categorically snip everything if you're gonna touch it in any fashion?

      If you use a cable tie gun you don't get the sharp edges.

    8. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Tynin · · Score: 1

      We use cable/zip ties in our datacenter, to keep the back of the racks cable mess more organized, all of the cable runs get tied back to the sides of the rack (mostly cat5). We snip off the excess from the tie which can leave a sharp edge. To deal with that, honestly, we just try to cut them off as close as possible to the racket box, as horizontal as possible. That usually results in a smooth'ish, non-sharp end. I will say that our racks look very neat, almost artistic, although we have practically no service loops. That said, thousands of servers and several years later, not having service loops for cat5 hasn't caused any problem. I'd love to provide pictures, because like I said, it really does look like art, but we cannot have camera's in the datacenter.

    9. Re:Loads of cable ties! by JustinOpinion · · Score: 4, Interesting

      My solution is to use a whole bunch of solutions:
      - Instead of cable ties, we mostly strips of double-sided velcro. It's faster to reconfigure. (Hint: Buy "Velcro Plant Ties" instead of cable ties... it's the exact same stuff but much cheaper.)
      - Also use cable ties and twist-ties liberally.
      - CableDrop (or similar) when you want to hold a cable in position but be able to move/remove it frequently.
      - AnthroCart cable management accessories. They are optimized to work with their line of desks, but some of the accessories are just generally useful for group cables.
      - Medium-length runs of multiple cables can be grouped together using a split tube (e.g. this). Ikea used to sell some dirt-cheap split-tube for cable management, but I can't find it anymore (they do have these, though).
      - For some runs, braided sleeving (or even just solid PVC tubing from any hardware store) can be useful. You can unplug all the cables from both ends, and move it as a unit to a new span.

      So I guess my advice is to have a mixture of solutions on-hand. For any given task, use the one that feels right!

    10. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      We used to do control cabinet installations for electrical substations, and used zip ties by the hundred. The right way to do this is with a tightening/cutting tool:
      http://www.amazon.com/Conduct-Tite-86250-Wire-Tightener-Cutting/dp/B001P99A2O

      Squeezing the trigger on this pulls the tie tight and cuts the end in a way that leaves no sharp edge. And once you're used to using it, you can go very quickly, which doesn't matter for a desk setup, but in a machine room, is important.

    11. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      They work but look ugly if they're not inside a case, and are a pain if you have to change anything. I use plastic split wire loom to group cables together (no particular endorsement of link intended -- just needed some pictures). Works well for connecting up stereo cables or inside a case, and it's also cheap. You can buy reels of it at various diameters from automotive supply companies. Sometimes you can get it in a variety of colors too.

    12. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A $5 cable tie gun will tension the tie and clip the tail close enough to the lock not to leave an exposed/dangly cut end.

    13. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Side cutters are quick and easy but to avoid the sharp edge, try taking linesman pliers and "twisting" the it off. When it breaks. It's not perfect but it is a lot less sharp. I use this technique in places I need to run my arms along so I don't look like I got in a fight with a cat...

      That said, velco is the best in a rack. Like the tie wraps, use lots. Every 15 to 30 centimeters.

    14. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How do you deal with the sharp edges on the cut? Categorically snip everything if you're gonna touch it in any fashion?

      If you use a cable tie gun you don't get the sharp edges.

      If you use the right type of diagnol cutter you don't get a sharp edge. http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/

    15. Re:Loads of cable ties! by couchslug · · Score: 1

      Mega-dittos. Buy good ones and use them generously. It's worth it.
      Also, when tying to something, I usually don't cinch the first tie (around the object the cable is to be secured to). I thread a second tie through it and wrap that around the cables, then lightly cinch the first tie.

      Less pinchy.

      --
      "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
    16. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Nethead · · Score: 1

      When I built a 100 rack data center I banned cable ties. Wax string is the way to make a clean data center, and one that won't tear your forearms when you go digging in the cable ladder. I also banned premade patch cables. Make them to length and terminate them yourself, cheaper that way. Go to any decent DC powered facility to see how it's done.

      https://picasaweb.google.com/113772475339822154680/MOSTLW1

      --
      -- I have a private email server in my basement.
    17. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Professionals don't use tie wraps. Double-sided velcro is better in all ways. Not just for reconfigurability and because cut off pieces of tie-wrap cut your hands.

      Most important reason for me is that tie wraps damage cables. It's easy to pull them too tightly. But even if you don't, they more quickly create sharp bends in cables than velcro does. Sharp bends in most cables are bad.

      In professional data centers, tie wraps are forbidden, except sometimes for power cables.

    18. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you cut yourself with cable ties, you don't know how to use them.

      There is a TRICK to cutting off the unused "tail" so it leaves no stub. You use a pair of heavy-duty diagonal cutters, and cut on the DIAGONAL so that cutting off the unused part of the tie, you're also cutting off a small corner of the latch mechanism at the end. The result is a smooth, burr-free cut that won't hurt anyone in the future.

    19. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      thanks for the great post, I'll bookmark your post and get to it one day

    20. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How do you deal with the sharp edges on the cut? Categorically snip everything if you're gonna touch it in any fashion?

      Use a cable tie installation tool. 20 bucks, no sharp edges, neat installation every time.

    21. Re:Loads of cable ties! by SplatMan_DK · · Score: 1

      I am not sure why you think this is a major problem. I never cut my hands on cable ties.

      Perhaps you just need a new diagonal cutter or another brand of cable ties?

      - Jesper

      --
      My security clearance is so high I have to kill myself if I remember I have it...
    22. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      (Hint: Buy "Velcro Plant Ties" instead of cable ties... it's the exact same stuff but much cheaper.)

      No wonder you have so much experience running cables! In order to protect yourself, you need to use diamond infused, low impedance, double insulated, grounded and unbalanced cable ties. It gives me a full 57% reduction in crosstalk interference and a 39% increase in ground loop isolation. It also increases cable longevity due to the reduction in corrosive duplex bit-rate negotiations. Finally, all the FLAC music I transfer over Ethernet no longer suffers from the change in sample rate you get with cheaper cable ties.

    23. Re:Loads of cable ties! by onepoint · · Score: 1

      That was a wonder to look at, Elegant.
      I just hope you did not use mint flavor wax linen, for if a mouse was to get in, it would find lot's of snacks LOL

      --
      if you see me, smile and say hello.
    24. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      First of all, don't really cinch down on the bundle that you're zip-tying together--the individual cables should be allowed to slide a little (according how the attached device is placed). Then you can use one of those toenail clippers--the pinch type that you can get at any drug store.

    25. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Proper use of cable ties does NOT mean use a lot of them, frankly, cable ties should NEVER be used unless your wires are traversing open space. Otherwise, use of cable channels or PANDUIT should be used. It's the best looking, easy to manage cable system. If I were your boss and you are using a pair of diag cutters to cut the ends off you'd be fired. That's amateur and a safety hazard when you reach into where your cables are and slice your hand/arm open.

    26. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The garden velcro stuff is usually pretty low quality velcro. Still perfectly good for this job, and I do the same thing, but it's not quite correct to say that it's the same stuff.

    27. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Xacid · · Score: 1

      Great tip with the plant ties!

    28. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      NO! BAD BAD BAD idea. As a 20 year computer tech I have LOST more time than I can count by having to deal with someone who decided to cable tie every cable every 6 inches rather than looping the cables to take up slack or using velcro if needed.

      In most cases you are wasting your time multiple times (and my time - and the users time) by turning a 20 second cable move to a 20 minute ordeal of trying to find the diagonal cutters or scissors or anything that will cut those damn things while the VIP who needs to get into a webinar keeps asking for status updates. I have never lost any time or equipment because of a lack of cable management.But I have lost a lot of time because of cable ties specifically.

      You say yourself you have to keep 3 kits around your house to just deal with your own idea. That's quite a bit of equipment for cable management at one house. And really, how much cable management do you have in your life? That's all well and fine - but home use does not equal anything in the workplace. At home you are in control of things from A-Z. At the workplace there are usually multiple people calling for your help, reviewing your work, working with or against you, and SLA's to meet. It's sort of like comparing your back yard to a public kids playground.

      You can do wonders with winding cable into a circle and velcro. Cable ties are intended for permanent installations.

    29. Re:Loads of cable ties! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      At first I thought you were being sarcastic with a statement like this:

      Proper use of cable ties means you are not afraid to use a LOT of them, and also not afraid of cutting them open when you need to change someting. I keep a cheap diagonal cutter and a bag of assorted cable ties in every desk drawer in my house (3 "kits" in total).

      That makes sense in some applications, so maybe they do for your's. You weren't really specific.

      However, let me just say that as someone who has come after the dipshits who cinch cable tied an entire rack of equipment in (and the people who came after them, who tried to make due with having all their cables constrained and inaccessible), this is a bad practice. Not only does it result in marginal forethought, but it requires two things you do not want:

      1) You need an extra tool (and more time) to redo wiring or even rack another machine, sometimes.
      2) That you have a knife near networking cable which is able to cut through the ties - ties which are more difficult to cut than the networking cable itself.

      Case in point for #2: we were reorganizing a rack (removing every third/other system, moving the remaining machines down, and putting new equipment in the top). We were almost done and checking to make sure we didn't jiggle something loose or fail to plug something back in properly, and we noticed that the main DC was intermittently available. Someone had managed to nick the cable in a bundle when separating it and didn't notice - slicing through the cable enough to cause some fairly severe (but not complete) packet loss.

      The ONLY time I would say a network/server rack should be cinch tied is when you are building a handful of racks to a universal specification and will not be touching the cable until the cable or equipment is completely replaced.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    30. Re:Loads of cable ties! by plover · · Score: 1

      Ask your boss if you can get permission to take a photo of your cabling work, or if they would permit a photographer take a picture for you. Offer to let them supervise the process, check the SD card for stray images of secret stuff, whatever. But a picture of that would be great for your resume, or even to stick in your performance review.

      --
      John
    31. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      split tube is cheap and available from car parts stores as wire loom.

    32. Re:Loads of cable ties! by pionzypher · · Score: 1

      Interesting. Is there a specific name for this method of wrapping (besides waxed linen/wax string wrap)?

      --
      I'll believe in corporations having personhood when Texas executes one... - advocate_one
    33. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Nethead · · Score: 1
      --
      -- I have a private email server in my basement.
    34. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Get a cable tie tensioning tool, they not only avoid accidental wire breakage by pulling too hard, they also have a nice cutter that doesnt leave the sharp edges that your knuckles love. Spend a few bucks on a decent one though.

    35. Re:Loads of cable ties! by evilviper · · Score: 1

      I think cable ties are a great way to reduce the chaos in a pile of spaghetti-style cables.

      Some people dislike them, but I think they are just not accustomed to using them.

      Consider these poor confused souls may simply be people who came along AFTER you zip tied all the network cables together, and had to deal with that horrible mess.

      Some type of tie is useful, but zip ties are TERRIBLE. They have a small surface area, so they dig-in very tightly and cut into the cables. Similiarly, they're so tightly on there that cutting them off is quite difficult, and can EASILY result in collateral damage of cutting INTO a cable.

      For the same reasons, your bundles of zip-tied cables have NO GIVE at all. This is very rarely desirable. Proper cable management should make it easy to manage the mess, not turn a bundle of cables into an immovable structural element, tantamount to a strutural column that just happens to be made of CAT-6.

      Now, needing a little slack on one cable may now involve ripping up innumerable floor or ceiling tiles, cutting ALL the zip ties, then pulling a little slack, and tying it all up again. What a nightmare. The cure is worse than the disease. It's this kind of poorly thought-out cable management that results in an additional run of new cables being slightly less hassle than using a pair in the existing zip-tied bundle of doom...

      How do you think your zip ties perform on fiber-optic bundles?

      What not to do.

      The ideal cable ties are soft, have a much wider footprint than zip ties, are impossible to over-tighten, and are easily reusable. Velcro works, but they're more expensive, and more importantly, I find them extremely unweildy, as they constantly stick together when and in ways you don't want them to.

      "rapstraps" are a pretty good design.

      Beaded cable ties deserve honorable mention as well, as being extremely common, dirt cheap, and vastly better than zip ties.

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      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
    36. Re:Loads of cable ties! by pionzypher · · Score: 1

      Thank you. The links are much appreciated.

      --
      I'll believe in corporations having personhood when Texas executes one... - advocate_one
    37. Re:Loads of cable ties! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How do you deal with the sharp edges on the cut?

      A decent set of flush cutters will eliminate that sharp edge. Harbor Freight sells a good pair for $2 or $3.

    38. Re:Loads of cable ties! by MrNiceguy_KS · · Score: 1

      I have tried it, and can confirm it works well. Particularly when the ties are pulled so tight, you can't cut them without risking damage to the cable.

      --
      Redundancy is good And also good.
  30. It starts at construction. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Cable management in racks is something that needs to be built at the time the racks are put in place.There are a variety of wiring enclosures that make the whole length of the rack on both sides with access doors . About 6 inch by 6 by the height of the rack.That helps because you simply loose the extra length in that box.by having one on each side and cable guides between the patch panels to route the wires out of the way to the side boxes. Pretty much solves most troubles , it's just got to be built in when the data center is put up.Use velcro thoroughout the racking and for the wiring trays.Velcro helps for the simple reason it won't damage the cabling like tight tie wraps can The width of the tie distributes the pressure and it's easy to add/remove cables. On the matter of tables , gawd what a mess .. ! If you like the idea of velcro and wish to use it neatly you can get small pieces ( panduit makes them ) that you screw on the underside that are shaped to accept a peice of velcro already made.It's more gentle on the velcro and looks more professional . Not to mention that those small parts can also be mounted in rack screw holes etc Bunches of models.Trick again is to plan ahead the data center before you get the racks etc to include what will make life easy.To try to add or correct later may be a difficult proposition.

    gday
     

  31. Answer: by hellop2 · · Score: 1

    Free twisty-ties from the grocery store.

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    How many more years will slashdot have an off-by-one error on your Score in your profile?
  32. Clever Patch Cable Management by Siggy200 · · Score: 1

    I use the cable tie method using stick on mounting squares and loose loops of the ties under the desk.

  33. Potted Plant Hangers: by pecosdave · · Score: 3, Interesting

    At one job where I had little ability to run cables under the floor/through the walls, but had a bunch of thick multi-microphone cables plus a few other types to run I made my own "hanging cable tray" using upside-down potted plant hangers I found at Lowes,

    I was only going to run them from the punch-down panel to the first audio rack, the client liked the idea so much they bought more and ran them all the way to the wall for the cables they didn't hire me for.

    --
    The preceding post was not a Slashvertisement.
    1. Re:Potted Plant Hangers: by Jjeff1 · · Score: 1

      You made a J-Hook, those are supposed to be part of any properly done structured cable install. Some examples

    2. Re:Potted Plant Hangers: by pecosdave · · Score: 1

      Mine were about $2.50 each at Lowe's, were readily available, fit the decor of the offices (granted this was in a back room), and has the nice extra hook on the end for hanging baseball caps and the like when the permanent techs move into that room. I did consider some proper J-Hooks, but the plant hangers were actually a better fit for the client relations part of the environment and the physical limitations of where I was doing the work. (A sound studio where I wasn't free to put many holes in the wall and lacked solid backing where I could).

      --
      The preceding post was not a Slashvertisement.
  34. Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by Monoman · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Cable ties are too permanent. I have seen too many times where they get cut off to trouble shoot and never put back for various reasons. Use Velcro to bundle up the cables because it is easier to take off and put back on when needed. No tools required.

    Choose and use good cable management trays. There are lots of choices. Decide if you want the trays to have covers or not. I like the horizontal trays to be the type without covers and the verticals to have wide gaps with hinged covers.

    I don't like the Panduit Panduct type stuff (http://www.panduit.com/Products/ProductOverviews/WiringDuct/index.htm) because they require you to cut tabs out for passing more than a few cables in and out at a time. They also tend to tear up your cuticles when working with them. Also, the covers snap on and off and people put the smaller horizontal ones in the weirdest places. -- Hard to find.

    You can use different cable colors for identifying certain things in your environment (wireless, printers, servers, etc). If you can't justify buying all of the cables sizes you need in all of the different colors then you can use colored tape or some other type of identifier like plastic tags. You have plenty of options.

    Lastly, limit access to the wiring closets only to those that need it, have been trained, and are held responsible if it becomes a mess.

    --
    Keep the Classic Slashdot.
    1. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by craig.chadwell · · Score: 1

      Really good suggestion - if you're not so much interested in designating specific devices to specific patch cable colors, then color-coding on patch cable length creates a relatively quick visual indication of the sizes you have in a bundle. I generally leave the bundle draped across the horizontal ladder racks in the closet secured with velcro.

      The zip ties comment is also spot on. Especially from panels to network hardware or from panels to panels, velcro is more costly but so much more flexible in the long run.

      There is a pretty good Panduit product called NetRunner which has pretty solid plastic fingers with about an inch between each finger for routing cables horizontally. The fingers have beveled edges so you aren't constantly scratching your knuckles in the cases where you have dense quantities of cables to route.

    2. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by Skal+Tura · · Score: 1

      putting new ones is the key tbh. Lazyness is not a form of cable management by definition ;) and lazy ppl don't bother to do cable management in the first place.

    3. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by king0lag · · Score: 0

      putting new ones is the key tbh. Lazyness is not a form of cable management by definition ;) and lazy ppl don't bother to do cable management in the first place.

      Yeh bro i h8 lazy ppl.

    4. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      Ideally you should install large bundles of cables with redundancy. Cable tie them once and then never touch them again. It requires some planning and more up front cost, but is well worth it

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    5. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by Nethead · · Score: 1

      The best method I've seen for a data center is to have a patch bay in each rack going to a MDF (Main Distribution Frame.) Any inter-rack connection goes to the MDF and then to the destination rack. Google MRJ21

      Here's the back side of a MDF for a Clearwire data center using MRJ21 connectors and cables.

      https://picasaweb.google.com/113772475339822154680/MOSTLW1#5472658522459177938

      --
      -- I have a private email server in my basement.
    6. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by Monoman · · Score: 1

      In our data center we do that as well. The problem we have run into is determining how many racks an "MDF" can support in our no standardized "flexible" environment. We can't predict exactly how a rack is going to be built out ahead of time so we guesstimate. The number of runs you will need back to the MDF can vary greatly. Will the rack be filled with 1U servers with two NICs each? VMWare servers with 6 NICs each? Blade chassis?

      We have considered going back to a "top of rack" switch setup with the "MDF" supporting just the fiber connections to each rack. Time will tell.

      --
      Keep the Classic Slashdot.
    7. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Your last point is easily mitigated by taking your second to last point a step further:

      Lastly, limit access to the wiring closets only to those that need it, have been trained, and are held responsible if it becomes a mess.

      You can use different cable colors for identifying certain things in your environment (wireless, printers, servers, etc). If you can't justify buying all of the cables sizes you need in all of the different colors then you can use colored tape or some other type of identifier like plastic tags. You have plenty of options.

      What I propose and do myself is: don't care what color the cables are, as long as they're different. Then label them. Or, don't label them, but having different color cables in each bundle makes the "figure out where cables go" problem so very much easier and almost completely avoidable. You still have to trace cables with colored cables, and when they're colored by role, you'll often have bundles of same-colored cables. That's no good. Just mix and match, who gives a damn (the different colors per bundle make it easier to find and identify bundles as unique, too). You don't need to 'train' anyone to your specific environment for little things, and it makes it much easier to hand off to someone else.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    8. Re:Velcro, good cable trays, and use of color. by cthulhu11 · · Score: 1
      At least, a response that answers the main (though vague) question, rather than the different home-user situation. First, a niggle: what exactly does "network administrator" mean in this context? I try to avoid the term altogether because to many it means someone who manages MS Active Directory and (gak!) MS Exchange accounts, and rarely anything to do with the actual network. "Network Engineer" might be more on-target, but I digress .... At first read I thought this was a different question than I think it actually is -- the obvious answer seemed to be to have a box/bin for 2' cables, one for 3', etc., but most other responses seem to be regarding management of cross-connect cables in use.

      Cable ties are too permanent. I have seen too many times where they get cut off to trouble shoot and never put back for various reasons.

      True -- plus they IMO are too skinny and prone to gripping cables too tightly, especially when there are fibers in the mix. Tight trussing with cable / zip ties also confounds the incremental tugging that's an integral part of tracing existing cables to determine their endpoints. Another problem with plastic ties is that when cutting them, it's way too easy to cut into cables or fingers too, and trimmed ends can be rather sharp -- I've drawn blood both ways.

      Use Velcro to bundle up the cables because it is easier to take off and put back on when needed. No tools required.

      With small numbers of cables, that works

      I don't like the Panduit Panduct type stuff (http://www.panduit.com/Products/ProductOverviews/WiringDuct/index.htm) because they require you to cut tabs out for passing more than a few cables in and out at a time. They also tend to tear up your cuticles when working with them. Also, the covers snap on and off and people put the smaller horizontal ones in the weirdest places. -- Hard to find.

      $employer uses Panduit in at least some of our facilities, and I haven't had serious issues with it. I don't understand the above re cutting tabs, as even with very full ducts I've never had a problem finding a slot for ingress/egress; I've also never had cuticle issues with them. The covers sometimes can take a bit of care to snap back on, especially if a given trough is *very* full, or if a given slot has a dozen cables run the same direction such that the tabs on either side are displaced by an inch and need to be pinched a bit, though the covers are fairly forgiving re skipping a number of tabs, albeit with a result that isn't as cosmetically neat. I agree that the covers are easy to misplace, and sometimes they blend in and are hard to find -- when I work on them I try to leave them either directly on top of their associated trough, or on the light-colored floor where they contrast nicely. I often leave our MDF's looking better than I find them, eg. by finding stray covers left on a Juniper five racks over, or by flipping panels snapped in place with the lettering upside down. What confounds me is having the right length cable for a given run. I don't like building my own cables, and won't do it for sure when working in a remote facility that's a pair of airports away from home. One remote facility where we have a bunch of gear stocks 4', 9', and 14' cables. For a run that would take 9.5' for a direct and unstrained cable, that means either dangling a loop in a vertical trough, which substantially increases congestion, or taking the scenic route through the troughs, which also increases congestion.

      You can use different cable colors for identifying certain things in your environment (wireless, printers, servers, etc)

      In the above environments, almost everything is a "server" or networking equipment, so we don't generally sweat colors, but one thing I do highly endorse is making crossover-pinned cables EXTREMELY obvious, say by sourcing them in purple/violet compared to the usual beige.

  35. My Set^ by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    -Shower Curtain rod covers for concealing [and easy insertion/removal of wires]. [http://www.homehardware.ca/products/300/83159401.jpg]
    -Plastic d clips[1] with 1 hole widened to accept screw plugs[2] to affix to wall, but still open-able.
    [1. http://images.esellerpro.com/2328/I/589/85/pic_750_p-clip_01_a.jpg mine are white]
    [2. http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQJi_M7A5RWZJzByCcpOTf5lkBACGOjUXENgaDD0EOofqO7yYaa1A]
    -Loose wiring concealed under puzzel carpet. [http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQQbnLvfwUbMDocCG7_GXHmnNyHyEIyHN4sHTLuWbCmkHh7R_3z]
    In my hallway, I also have a 25 foot blue rope light in with the wires, low light floor lighting for night time, for movie night

  36. save on hardware by alphatel · · Score: 1

    Straps and brackets cost too much. We pay one tech to find cables

    --
    When the foot seeks the place of the head, the line is crossed. Know your place. Keep your place. Be a shoe.
  37. Simple: Get Married! by digitalderbs · · Score: 1

    if you can...

  38. toilet paper rolls by Maglos · · Score: 4, Informative
    1. Re:toilet paper rolls by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Cable management, in regards to this Ask Slashdot, is about managing cables that are live and plugged in, and how to get them to all lay properly and neatly, together.

    2. Re:toilet paper rolls by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Toilet paper rolls? What is this, "Escape from Stalag Luft 112B"?

  39. Side-cutters by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Though I guess that's the realm of the Network Engineer rather than that of Administration.

  40. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by PopeRatzo · · Score: 1

    Next computer: 2nd-hand Mac Pro or a new Linux build.

    For music production? Please stick with the Mac Pro.

    I've bought a new Mac Pro for my project studio every few years since they came out and with Logic Studio and a good audio interface they are the finest production machine ever made. I have resisted throwing away the old ones, so they are lined up in my server closet.

    It looks like a Castro Street production of Fritz Lang's Metropolis.

    However, if you get a Linux build too, you should try a DAW app called Cockos' Reaper. You can use the Linux box to offload your real-time effects and even VSTi processes. Also, use it to stream samples and render masters. Look for "ReaMote".

    --
    You are welcome on my lawn.
  41. Use toilets paper tubes to collect small cables by emj · · Score: 1

    I use toilet paper tubes for organizing small cables, it makes it very easy to find that cable to that old phone you just gave to that friend. The most important thing is to keep all the connectors on the same side of the roll, so you really get the right connector on both ends of the cable.

    1. Re:Use toilets paper tubes to collect small cables by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Now that's a shitty idea!

  42. old school punchdown blocks by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I have no idea why more people don't use old-school punchdown blocks for CAT5. The cross connects are fraction of the bulk and weight of full CAT5 patch cables, and they're always exactly the right length.

  43. Colour coding, velcro, brady labels by SpankyDaMonkey · · Score: 1

    Disclaimer: I do this for a living I run a medium-sized datacentre, and my job is to plan new installations for anything from pizza-box servers to full mainframes. Here is a few lessons that I've learnt the hard way. Fighting human nature By nature people are lazy and interested in the quick fix. As soon as you compromise and let 1 'quick fix' through - it turns in to a production cable that you are then stuck with until it's time to decomission the system. Do not compromise - do it right the firs time, every time. Brady Labels These are the self-laminating wrap-round labels for cabling. Label everything with at a minimum the source and destination ports (along with a patch panel port if needed). This brings 2 major benefits - when it comes time to cable everything is already planned and so you just need to follow the labels, and secondly if there is ever a problem you don't spend hours tracing where each cable runs back to. Cable Ties Cable ties are fundamentally evil. Do not use cable ties. Wrapstrap is a better product (no affilitation with this product) - http://www.rapstrap.com/ Velcro Velcro is your friend. Buy in bulk. Keep a stock. At home I nail small 3" to 4" pieces at the back of each desk for instant cable management. Cable Lengths Check what lengths you can get from your supplier - you should have a stock of 1m to 4m patch leads at 50cm intervals as a minimum. Use the right lengths. Colour coding Establish a colour coding scheme and stick with it - colour code for primary and secondary networks, colour code for firewalls, colour code for management, colour code for uplinks to additional infrastructure. Colour coding is your best way of verifying and proving that you have full redundancy to each device. OCD is an occupational hazard Yes - the job will make you feel like you have premanent CDO (the letters should always be in alpabetical order) - but the first time you have a problem that you can solve in minutes instead of hours by following the general guidelines above you will be glad you have it.

    1. Re:Colour coding, velcro, brady labels by SpankyDaMonkey · · Score: 1

      alternate product - http://millepede.com/

    2. Re:Colour coding, velcro, brady labels by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      I shall try thy rapstraps, spanky monkey. Mostly because you can get 'em pretty cheap on eBay. Who's selling 'em in the USA?

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    3. Re:Colour coding, velcro, brady labels by SpankyDaMonkey · · Score: 1

      Millipede have a US distributor list which could be a good starting point - http://millepede.com/distributor-list/usa/20856 For cable looms up the side of a rack they're perfect as you can break them by hand which means you don't risk snippers near live cables.

  44. Cheap cable trays = plastic guttering by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Subject says it all, but I'll add to it anyway. I've used regular vinyl home guttering as a cheap method of horizontal cable trays. The support clips do their job from underneath, leaving the top completely open. It's easy to cut to length.

  45. Plait and Braid them. by MrKaos · · Score: 1

    I have more cable that I can think of to deal with so, even though it can be time consuming it's unquestionably neat. Plaiting and braiding cables is the way to go. Once you learn three, four, five and six way plaits and braids you can make any wiring loom neat and controllable in a unit.

    Anyone lucky enough to have me build a performance gaming/audio/video workstation for them get the full service internally braided cables. Having hot rodded several cars, this is the one time I think a car analogy is in the right place. When you hot rod a car you have to figure out how to hide and manage the wiring. That skill translate perfectly onto computers and a box with hidden wires looks like an exceptionally neat piece of performance gear.

    From that point it's relatively simple to come up with wiring looms for various discrete subsystems (like drum kit mike looms, braided low-voltage power supply cables). Don't try it with mains though, the inductance could be a fire hazzard. I've not tried it with a full rack, yet but I didn't experience any noise introduced into my signal path so I don't expect you would find increased packet loss from induced noise in ethernet cable. YMMV

    --
    My ism, it's full of beliefs.
    1. Re:Plait and Braid them. by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      In a computer, an environment with limited vibration, you may get away with something like that. But if I paid someone to do electrical work on one of my cars (not likely) and they braided my wires I might have to murder them. By the same token, network cabling seems to just spontaneously fail on a regular basis. Braiding it would be a retard move. You're trolling, right? Right? Is this thing on? Hello?

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    2. Re:Plait and Braid them. by MrKaos · · Score: 1
      Oh Dear. I'm sensing that comprehension was not something you achieved strong marks with at school.
      1. Q. Did I say that I plaited and braided the wiring in a car?

        A. No, what I said was you have to figure out how to hide and manage the wiring.

      2. Q. Did I say that I have plaited and braided a full rack?

        A. No, what I said was I haven't tried it with a full rack yet.

      To assist you I have bolded the key ideas. This should make it easier for you to comprehend. Now sometimes in life you have to combine ideas (try to keep up here if you have trouble I can use more bold) to do something. What I did was combine two ideas to make a suggestion to someone who asked a question about better cable management.

      Whilst I appreciate that the quality of *your* ethernet cables may spontaneously fail on a regular basis, mine do not. Perhaps it's because you are doing it wrong. This may be explained by you having to do your own electrical work on your car because you are not skillful enough to make reliable ethernet cables and thus, you don't get paid enough to be able to afford an auto electrician. So, certainly, braiding it would be a retard move *for you*.

      Speaking of "retard moves" (and I'll bold this bit to assist your comprehension) I suggest that next time you smoke a lot of weed, you refrain from posting.

      --
      My ism, it's full of beliefs.
    3. Re:Plait and Braid them. by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Whilst I appreciate that the quality of *your* ethernet cables may spontaneously fail on a regular basis, mine do not. Perhaps it's because you are doing it wrong.

      Actually, I've had endless premade patch cables fail while nobody was near them. It's called thermal expansion; look it up.

      Speaking of "retard moves" (and I'll bold this bit to assist your comprehension) I suggest that next time you smoke a lot of weed, you refrain from posting.

      How do you know I'm not smoking crack, like your mom obviously did?

      Braiding cables, even the ones inside of a PC (I've had cables like that go bad, too) is a stupid idea on every level. Nothing you say can change that. Thank you.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    4. Re:Plait and Braid them. by MrKaos · · Score: 1

      Actually, I've had endless premade patch cables fail while nobody was near them. It's called thermal expansion; look it up.

      Yup, like I said, yor dewing it rong.

      How do you know I'm not smoking crack, like your mom obviously did?

      Oh you probably are, but it was unlikely that it was around when I was born, but it was around yesterday*

      Braiding cables, even the ones inside of a PC (I've had cables like that go bad, too) is a stupid idea on every level. Nothing you say can change that. Thank you.

      I see, so what your saying is you have perfected the art of performing oral sex on yourself. Well no wonder you don't get out much. That's quite alright, any time.

      * see what MrKaos did there. The quip was turned around on the poster in the form of a lame joke so that the posters mum was made out to smoke crack during her pregnancy with the poster AND that the poster was born yesterday, implying that the poster is not very worldly wise and has had mental capacity issues due to exposure to those toxins during fetal development. The combination of lameness and obviousness in the comments were intended to appeal to the posters retarded development and draw the poster's trollish nature out further. It's more than likely this poster will be unable to resist posting again.

      --
      My ism, it's full of beliefs.
    5. Re:Plait and Braid them. by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      see what MrKaos did there.

      I know I shouldn't feed the trolls, but when you fail to address any of the points in someone's response, you have conceded defeat. Why not just give up on slashdot now?

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    6. Re:Plait and Braid them. by MrKaos · · Score: 1

      see what MrKaos did there.

      I know I shouldn't feed the trolls, but when you fail to address any of the points in someone's response, you have conceded defeat. Why not just give up on slashdot now?

      Why should I? It works for me, I don't care what you do. The plaited and braided cables I have in service still work almost half a decade after being installed, they don't look defeated.

      Braiding it would be a retard move. You're trolling, right? Right? Is this thing on? Hello?

      Had you not been a prick in our first interaction I may have responded differently but it would seem you have impulse control issues.*

      Why not just give up on slashdot now?

      Because I instead decided to give up on you. You decided to be an asshole to me first up so I decided to let my troll free with a flamethrower. It's been years and it was fun.

      * The overwhelming urge for the poster to respond again will likely twist around in the posters mind for some time now that the posters original trollish response mechanisms have been revealed. Lets watch and observe the discomfiture and see if the poster can engage impulse control or again be drawn into a re-accusation sequence.

      --
      My ism, it's full of beliefs.
  46. Lengthwise-split pipe by Wizzu · · Score: 1

    I was just recently organizing the cables in the back of my entertainment media setup in the living room, and ended up using flexible plastic pipe that I cut open lengthwise. I picked about 1 inch diameter pipe, but it's easy and fairly cheap to find any diameter that's needed. Supposedly it's possible to find ready-split pipe too, but I couldn't locate any where I live.

    Using the split pipe keeps the cables nicely together and avoids dust collecting between them. It also adds a bit of extra insulation (distance) so that power cables don't create interference to signal cables where they are running close to each other. Doing this was probably a bit more work than using velcro straps (splitting the pipe using scissors, getting the cables into the pipe), but IMO works well for those places where cables run on the floor and are likely to attract dust.

    This method is not an universal solution by any means. For instance, it's not that good for cables hanging in the air, or going short distances. My recommendation is to use velcro instead for those situations.

  47. White cable, colored markers, less inventory by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If you can't justify buying all of the cables sizes you need in all of the different colors then you can use colored tape or some other type of identifier like plastic tags. You have plenty of options.

    An easier method: buy white cable and broad-tipped permanent markers (or cans of spray paint). Measure and cut the length you need, coil it and mark the coils in several places with the color designator. Uncoil to install and you will have markers of the correct color every foot or so.

  48. The right way by CagedApe · · Score: 1

    A heaping rats nest on the floor behind my PC, duh.

  49. Quantum leaps by macraig · · Score: 1

    I use Quantum Tango(tm) cables. Who needs to worry about managing them when you can just snip out the bothersome bits?

    1. Re:Quantum leaps by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What are those? Link, please?

  50. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Wow, you've been had. Most modern computers support 2GB, 4GB to 8GB of RAM, and 500GB to 3TB drives. Why are yours 8 times smaller?

  51. Clever Cable Management? Top 10 answers by tomhudson · · Score: 1

    Clever cable management?

    [_] If they're so clever, they can durn well manage themselves!
    [_] Is that why the cable bill goes up when you're not looking?
    [_] Wireless FTW!
    [_] We cut the cable, cut the satellite, and get everything in HD with a cheap pair of bunny-rabbit ears.
    [_] Are you kidding? There goes my job security!
    [_] We're still on token ring, you insensitive clod!
    [_] We color-code them by length. No exceptions. So, when we're out of a certain length, you have to move the computer/desk/user. Your new location is the broom closet.
    [_] I'll believe it when I see it.
    [_] Duct tape. LOTS of duct tape. And a tennis ball with a slit in it. And some RC cars with cams so we can pull cable in places that, when it breaks, we'll never be able to fix it.
    [_] No thanks ... CowboyNeal lays enough cable every morning during break.

    1. Re:Clever Cable Management? Top 10 answers by Jetbeard · · Score: 1

      [_] If they're so clever, they can durn well manage themselves!

      Regarding them managing themselves: Why not? http://lifehacker.com/5646277/manage-cables-with-an-old-coiled-phone-cord

  52. It just gets worse by Gim+Tom · · Score: 2

    In house cable runs are the pits, whether done by Cable company contractors, or just about anyone else these days. My Father was an old time telephone man and "back in the day" cables were ALWAYS fished through the walls, or run down the inside of closets and along baseboards. Now days the OUTSIDE of most houses around here have a web of cables running to each room where there is something that needs to have a cable connection -- whether it is for TV or telephone it does not matter. Oh, and one cable installer at my neighbors house used a hammer to just knock a hole between the garage and the LIVING ROOM to pull the cable through -- no plate, no cover just an raw open hole.

    1. Re:It just gets worse by HereIAmJH · · Score: 1

      My Father was an old time telephone man and "back in the day" cables were ALWAYS fished through the walls, or run down the inside of closets and along baseboards. Now days the OUTSIDE of most houses around here have a web of cables running to each room where there is something that needs to have a cable connection -- whether it is for TV or telephone it does not matter.

      This isn't anything new. My mom's house has a phone extension in the master bedroom that was added in the 60s. The cable runs across the inside of the garage (from what is now the phone co demarc), through a wall to the outside, across the front of the house and around the corner, then through an exterior wall into the bedroom. My house had the extension to the master run using the same technique, although I don't know when it was run since I've only owned the house for a little over a decade. On my house at least it could have been easily run through the basement.

      --
      Another day, another update to a Google android app.
    2. Re:It just gets worse by Gim+Tom · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the comment. I didn't know it had started quite that early. My dad moved on to commercial stuff and latter some engineering type work with one of the old Baby Bells in the early 1960's and most of the residence work he did was probably in the late 1940's or early 1950's. Of course he learned the trade in the 1930's and that is what he taught me. Of course your mention of Demarc may make the difference. Before the demarc Bell owned all the wiring and had to fix it if it failed, after the demarc it became the homeowners problem.

  53. Know the ropes by rwa2 · · Score: 1

    Also, since I'm lazy and the places where I work often don't have enough bags/ties to go around, I just use an abbreviated version of the Monkey's fist sailor's knot:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXdHcH3FRcM

    I stop around 1:00 and just tuck a loop of the remaining loose end into one of the holes. Then the cable just sits in a somewhat tight bundle (without kinking or exceeding the minimum bend radius too much), and they don't get tangled with each other. It's pretty quick, and no tools are required.

    Even better, to undo, I just pull the two ends apart and it unspools pretty nicely. If I want it to "lock", I could feed the cable through the two holes once or twice, though.

    Best part is that I can just grab the middle of an overlength cable and wrap it up like this without having to unplug it at either end. And it's pretty difficult for someone else to come along later and run another cable tangled through one of these things, unlike what happens with other slack loops I've seen.

  54. Bread Ties by VIPERsssss · · Score: 1

    Yeah, definitely, definitely, bread ties. Uh oh, fifteen minutes to Judge Wapner.

    --
    We are eternal, all this pain is an illusion.
  55. Plastic Rain Gutters by TwP · · Score: 1

    I cannot take credit for this one, but a cheap cable tray is a plastic rain gutter you can purchase in 10 foot lengths at any hardware store => http://lifehacker.com/5299994/rain-gutters-as-cable-management-tools

    1. Re:Plastic Rain Gutters by grumling · · Score: 1

      You mean fiber management tray: http://www.adc.com/Americas/en_US/Product/1270708869522/1270708888502

      It's actually a little more involved than that, but basically that's the stuff we use for moving fiber jumpers in our buildings. The vertical runs are even called downspouts.

      --
      "Well, good luck finding a judge that doesn't run a bestiality site."
  56. Fridge by mattr · · Score: 1

    I always kept a huge plastic box on top of the fridge.
    It held a full kilometer of ethernet, hubs, a couple routers, power blocks, testing apparatus, crossovers, and doodads, including a long spool of cool flat ribbon type ethernet which I never used (no rugs).
    The problem with cables is they always spaghettify. Like all the extra computers. Too many.
    I think I almost never had a use for the cable box and extra pcsand after much getting slapped around a little finally agreed to part ways with them in my last move. That was a very tough decision but decided too many cables needed to be recycled.

    As for ties, only used twisties (like on bread) and once upon a time plastic ties. I had a beautiful thick sky blue Swedish designed spiral thingy that could hold together a bunch of cables but it was so pretty I only used it for one desk and then kept it unsullied in a box..!

  57. You do it like this... by steffann · · Score: 1
    1. Re:You do it like this... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Uh oh... half the country just lost it's internet. Probably a bad cable... go check it out, will you?

  58. Plastic clips and screw eyes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I use these plastic clips to route wires:

    http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/783250/783250683420xl.jpg

    Most hardware stores have them. For unnecessarily long wires I wrap them around two screw eyes separated by about 2 inches.

    This is for my home setup.

  59. Panduit. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    For racks just get Panduit IN-Cabinet Vertical Cable Managers. It keeps the cables looks inside, so replacing them is simple. If you're running to a patch panel you'll want to use the double sided set and put them on bot sides of the rack.

    To keep the rows pretty out of the management just use rolls of velcro.

    It's really not that complicated.

  60. 3M Command by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I like the 3M Command cord management products: http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U523080QE0IIHEICN90GC1_nid=2MTXLPDDZ4beG43WLKMM87gl

    I use them at my desk and media center to organize the cables, they work pretty well and aren't all that expensive. If you need to move it, it is easy to replace the adhesive strip.

  61. Panduit Organizers by jon3k · · Score: 1

    We use these a lot in the datacenters.

    So, the rack looks like this:
    [patch panel]
    [panduit tray]
    [switch]

    repeat

    1. Re:Panduit Organizers by jon3k · · Score: 1

      And in replying to my own post, just remember that when you use a horizontal cable manager to hide a bunch of unevenly lengthed patch cable that you HAVE TO LABEL YOUR CABLES. Otherwise this actually makes it WORSE. Blackbox makes lots of different really good options for reusable cable labels.

    2. Re:Panduit Organizers by C_Kode · · Score: 1

      Cable race ways are nice, but not always feasible. At one colo, my cabinets are big enough and have them. At the other, they aren't. Not to mention, you can't have race ways running across the floor! :)

    3. Re:Panduit Organizers by jon3k · · Score: 1

      This isn't raceway, these are 19" cable organizers that mount inside the rack between your patch panel and switch. These are for intra-rack cabling, per the original question of how to "cleanly sort varying length patch cables within IDFs". The drawback is that it takes up available rack units that you could otherwise use to mount other equipment.

    4. Re:Panduit Organizers by C_Kode · · Score: 1

      I know exactly what they are, I have them. They also can run vertically along the side of your rack. I have *both* vertical and horizontal cable management at one of my co-locations. The other co-location doesn't have them as the cabinets are too thin for the vertical raceways.

      By definition, they are raceways. A raceway is a enclosed physical pathway for electrical wiring.

    5. Re:Panduit Organizers by jon3k · · Score: 1

      These are specifically horizontal (says it right in the product title) and aren't designed to be run vertically, so obviously I'm not talking about running cable vertically, as I specifically illustrated in my original post. So you can see why I was confused when you started talking about both vertical cable runs as well as running cable across the floor in these (?). Your post is very confusing.

    6. Re:Panduit Organizers by pionzypher · · Score: 1

      I hope you're just trolling/joking. Just in case you weren't..

      If you rotate your Horizontal Cable Organizer by 90 degrees(from --- to | ), it will allow you to run cables vertically(yes, even if the product title has the word 'Horizontal' in it). Regardless of their name, those are indeed raceways. The brand name used might be "Cable Organizer" but they're the same. Here is an example. Raceways are available in many different sizes so don't be put off if that link I provided doesn't match the size you use. Feel free to whoosh me if you were joking.

      --
      I'll believe in corporations having personhood when Texas executes one... - advocate_one
  62. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

    What about the cords to the monitors on the left and right of it?

  63. Cable Tips by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There are a few good ideas from Lifehacker
    http://lifehacker.com/5299994/rain-gutters-as-cable-management-tools
    http://lifehacker.com/5830029/diy-slim-pvc-cable-management-keeps-your-computer-cords-out-of-sight
    http://lifehacker.com/5646277/manage-cables-with-an-old-coiled-phone-cord
    http://lifehacker.com/5565096/use-bread-tags-as-cord-labels-for-easy-access

  64. Coat hooks by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It used to be so cold in our data center & MDF that you needed to wear a jacket. So, we installed a row of coat hooks on one wall in the MDF to leave jackets there. Eventually, we convinced them that we didn't need to be able to store meat in the data center and the temperature was raised to something more reasonable. The jackets all disappeared, but the coat hooks remained.

    So, I made labels for each length of patch cable we regularly used (3', 4', 5', 7', 10', 14') and placed them above the coat hooks. The 10' cables span two coat hooks to keep them from hitting the floor and the 14' cables span about 5 coat hooks.

    It's not perfect, but it's better than anything else we've had.

  65. Zip ties suck by C_Kode · · Score: 1

    Zip ties suck! Velcro straps are FAR better solution if you ask me. Cost more, but far easier to deal with when you have to add / remove a cable.

  66. Food ties by Zed0 · · Score: 1

    I've done quite a lot of work on an aerodynamic experiment rig recently and found that cheap food ties (the sort you get for doing up sandwich bags) work great for keeping cables together and are a lot cheaper and less permanent than cable ties; sure they're not great for heavy loads, but most of the time they keep things neat. Also learn to coil cables properly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLwwB29uQRg; you're not always going to have cables that are properly cut to length and using this method allows you to coil cables in the centre of the cable if necessary without causing extra twisting or tangles in the cables.

  67. Bulldog clips (for home) by penguinstorm · · Score: 1

    Bulldog clips that you can buy at Staples or Office Depot are genius for home. Run the cables Turku the wings and clip them somewhere. I use them to manage drive and power cables. Recently did the same for my mother's printer and camera cables and she no longer drops them.

    --
    Skot Nelson music is my saviour / i was maimed by rock and roll
  68. Article asks for pics, and yet slashdot won't.... by mark-t · · Score: 0

    ...allow embedding of pics into comments. I can understand some of the reasons that slashdot probably has not allowed pics in comments, of course, but I'm not entirely convinced that all of the reasons are still necessarily applicable or practical in 2011.

    Just sayin'....

  69. Zip ties = Waxed Linen = VELCRO by spblat · · Score: 1

    Once I was all about zip ties. Then I saw that cable lacing article on wikipedia that zippthorne posted about earlier and went bananas, lacing everything with marine whipping twine. But any time anything in your setup changes (namely, 12-72 hours after you're done with your cable management project) you have to start over.

    So I'm all about velcro. monoprice has velcro ties for ultra-cheap.

    My home theater: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150195660470606&l=49d60950a5

  70. 550 cord is better, IMO by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Paracord is better than cable ties. You can re-use it, adjust it more easily, etc. You just have to learn a few knots to make it more flexible than other solutions.

  71. Simple....Shorter the better by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I dont use anything longer than 12" unless I have to. When the patch cables are this short, there is no slack, no excess, no varying length, no cable ties, no stupid cable management.

    Basically this means replacing the annoying cable management with actual switches.

    I do the following in all of my closets with 2u 48 port patch panels and 1u 48 port switches.

    Patch Panel
    Switch
    Switch
    Patch Panel
    gap
    Patch panel
    switch
    switch
    patch panel

  72. Shameless Plug: My New Products by BoRegardless · · Score: 1

    My new products came out of my need to have a zip tie that "didn't suck". Products are almost ready for retail sales through my website.

    It holds well, is not scratchy, is reusable, can form multiple loop, is not bulky and, too boot, is easy to use. And its companion product is good for reusable surface mounting.

    I'll just give the YouTube video links which give the overview which gives the website:

    EZTY Use in 60 Seconds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxPVe1GFoiw
    EZTY Overview in 60 Seconds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWw-RzEY3tQ
    PyramidTY: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XniSxUbWOt4

  73. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by goose-incarnated · · Score: 2

    I have not seen a broken microphone in my 20 year IT career.

    I've got a broken mic on this laptop that I'm using to type this message out on. In keeping with my near-darwin-award-esque personality, I very stupidly plugged my guitar amp into the mic port of this laptop to see if it could handle it.

    I found out that it couldn't. YMMV, so go ahead and try it.

    --
    I'm a minority race. Save your vitriol for white people.
  74. Velcro by Taylor123456789 · · Score: 0

    Buy a roll of velcro tie material (http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=velcro+ties+roll&qpvt=velcro+ties+roll&FORM=Z7FD).

    Cut them into 1" to 3" lengths depending on the thickness of your cables. Tie them off every 12" or so.

    For cables of different lengths, roll the excess in a 6" roll somewhere out of the way, velcro tie that, then continue on so that the terminations are equal.

  75. Nasa and Belcore got it right by grumling · · Score: 1

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_lacing

    In the notes section you'll find the Qwest Telecommunications Equipment Installation Guidelines (TEIG). Lots and lots of good information here, pay attention to Chapter 5 Cabling: Forming, Running, and Securing. The NASA stuff is interesting, but I notice they've gone to the dark side and started allowing cable ties. No wonder they have so many problems.

    http://www.qwest.com/techpub/77350/77350.pdf

    As for "oh, but I have to make changes," you plan for changes from the start. If you expect you'll be adding/dropping often, use patch panels (many of them have cable management built in). Run extra and store it in the floor or out of the way on the ladder rack. If you need to re-run cable, take the time to do it correctly. If you use the lacing techniques in the qwest docs you should be able to loosen up the run, remove the offending cable and pull a new one. Temping something in should just be that: getting something up after hours or until the maintenance window. If the equipment so mission critical that it can't be taken down, build in redundancy.

    --
    "Well, good luck finding a judge that doesn't run a bestiality site."
    1. Re:Nasa and Belcore got it right by Brymouse · · Score: 1

      +1 for cable lacing. I'll show a couple pictures of lacing i did during a lab evaulation of some gear a few years ago.

      168 DS1's all in a rack

      Before:
      http://gallery.keekles.org/d/4624-2/94-ds1s.jpg

      After:
      http://gallery.keekles.org/d/4615-1/8620-laced-out.jpg

      Power Cables:
      http://gallery.keekles.org/d/4628-1/Power-cables.jpg

      The entire setup:
      http://gallery.keekles.org/d/4634-1/complete.jpg

    2. Re:Nasa and Belcore got it right by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This philosophy smells of the old Drafting on paper vs. AutoCAD debates. Sure, the old way looks great and is functional, but does nothing to address future changes. Seeing as how modern day philosophy is everything is throw away, everything with a service life changes. Cable lacing does not allow for fast dynamic changing environments. Most server rooms are relatively high turnover due to equipment upgrades.

  76. Little velco straps made for holding cables by Osgeld · · Score: 0

    you can get a 10 pack at the dollar tree, and an hour later when you notice you need to move something you dont have to cut and throw away a stupid ass zip tie

  77. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by jclarke · · Score: 1
  78. Use flush cutters and not diags! by Yo_mama · · Score: 1

    Stop using diagonal cutters and go to flush cutters. When we were using zip ties I was almost militant about this due to the scars I have on my hands from my time as an aircraft mechanic. Amazon has a Xuron set for $11 currently, and I'm sure there are cheaper buys out there, so it's a cheap investment.

    --
    Never understimate the power of human stupidity -Lazarus Long
  79. Greybar by Nethead · · Score: 1

    If you need to figure out how to run your communications cables just ask the friendly people at Greybar. They have been dealing with this exact issue since 1869, yes, before the telephone. You have a Greybar near you, you've just never noticed. They open early so you can get your parts on your truck and too your job. Electrical, voice and data copper, to fiber. They have it in stock.

    All that cool wire management stuff the telephone company has? They have it at Greybar. Need the racks and cable management to build a data center? They have it. Those special tools you need to put it together? They have them.

    Free coffee and popcorn too!

    --
    -- I have a private email server in my basement.
  80. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by manicb · · Score: 1

    This is pretty much the line of thought I've been going down. Cost is a factor, but I'm already using Logic and I can get it at student prices which is a great deal. I've heard Ableton now runs in WINE very well, but obviously would want to test that before committing to it. I really like Reaper and recommend it to everyone I can, but it's very difficult to piece together an efficient, affordable collection of some missing essential plug-ins like a good drum sampler, usable FM synth and multiband compressor.

    Part of me is just steering away from Apple because of their atrocious behaviour in the tablet/mobile market, and the fact that they refuse to sell me a new computer with more than four USB ports for less than two grand. Still, if I buy used then I'm only half-encouraging them, which suits my half-approval :-P

  81. Velcro cable ties by ozziegt · · Score: 1

    Velcro cable ties are great...you can buy a 100 pack from the hardware store for $5. They work almost as well as regular zip ties, but they are velcro. The only disadvantage is it takes a few more seconds to wrap them and you might not get them as tight as zip ties. They even have a little loop on the end so you can fasten them to your cable. I use them on just about every cable in the house (usb cables, power cords, laptop power cables, etc.)

  82. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Nethead · · Score: 1

    The mic is fine. You're mic pre-amp is fried. Much harder to replace.

    --
    -- I have a private email server in my basement.
  83. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by goose-incarnated · · Score: 1

    Ah - any ideas? I'm open to suggestions :-)

    --
    I'm a minority race. Save your vitriol for white people.
  84. Cable Ties, Colors, Numbers, Clear heatshrink. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    As an audio/video engineer and a system administrator, ive spent hours wiring cabinets, boxes, racks, and servers...
    neatness counts esp when troubleshooting issues. spend the time to properly wire your cabinents and it will save you hours of troubleshooting.

    1) use different colors for different types of wiring:
            feel free to pick your own, but i typically do something like this:
              * red/white for analog audio.
              * green for microphones with phantom power.
              * blue for microphones without phantom power.
              * orange for fiber/spdiff.
              * grey for lan, usb, and serial cables.
              * black for coax and use different color boots for RGB, HV, Coax, etc.

    2) before terminating each wire, slip on some clear heat shrink tubing onto each end of the wire

    3) terminate wire then label each end with stick on numbers, slide the heat shrink down and use a
            heat gun to shrink the heatshrink tubing. (keeps the numbers from falling off) in my experience, plastic
            tape comes off after a few years and it looks horrible.

    4) use lacer bars and judicious use of cable ties. using a cable tie tension gun will prevent you from breaking wires
            and will cut the ends cleanly (saves your knuckles from cuts when troubleshooting trust me!!)

    5) use extra wiring and loop it once when lacing the wires to the lacer bars, this helps you move things a little bit.

    6) only bind similar wires together whenever possible.
            good for organization, and mandatory to prevent signal ingress
            (ie. dont bundle power cables next to audio cables for long cable runs)

    limiting access to the wire cabinets is also a good idea.

  85. Topology and knot theory from cable messes by beachdog · · Score: 1

    The persistence of cables being crossed and tangled in the simplest computer installation got me studying topology and knot theory.
    One book I like is Formal Knot Theory by Kauffman.

    The area where crossings and tangles get much simpler is if you organize a single cable into a loop before storing it. If you hold both ends in one hand, then folding the remaining cable becomes a very symmetric process. For coiling a cable, routing successive turns on opposite sides of the plane of the coil does something very interesting, it creates a balanced number of twists in each direction.

    On the mess behind my desk. I am at last a member of the let 'er rip and dustbunnies galore group.

  86. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by PopeRatzo · · Score: 1

    I really like Reaper and recommend it to everyone I can, but it's very difficult to piece together an efficient, affordable collection of some missing essential plug-ins like a good drum sampler, usable FM synth and multiband compressor.

    proaudiotorrents.org

    Buy them when you can, but never let lack of money prevent you from making music.

    I have found that being able to try plugins and virtual instruments first has led to me purchasing more of them than I would have otherwise. My production suite is 100% legal licenses now, but only because I've been able to make some money. And to get off the ground I occasionally used unofficial demos of music apps.

    This way, it has worked out for me and for the developers of plugins and VIs. Everybody wins.

    --
    You are welcome on my lawn.
  87. Work smarter, not harder by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    1) When I received several boxes of patch cables from a site that had been "down-sized" I found the quickest way to sort them by length was to weigh them. Only works if they are from the same vendor but was very effective for me.

    2) UnoriginalBoringNick's first law: If you label a cable with its destination or function it WILL be reused for something else and WILL NOT be re-labelled.

    I imported some laser printable cable labels from the USA and made pairs of labels with a "Unique" 6 digit number and corresponding barcode. Just make sure you have the same number at each end of the cable before you install it. When your wiring closet is fully cabled make a spreadsheet with one column containing the reference of every port in the room - Switch ports, server network ports, outgoing ports - in the order you plan to visit them. Then move to the start of the next column of your spreadsheet and scan the barcode on the cable in each port. Keep an invalid barcode in your pocket for the unused ports.

    Congratulations! You have just documented your wiring closet. You know where every cable starts and ends so with a simple text editor or some reasonably simple scripting you can work out exactly what is connected to what. And the best thing - you didn't once trace a cable by tugging it to see what moved further along the cable run..

    What is the advantage of all this effort? If you are fortunate enough to have all your patch cables labelled in advance and find yourself under severe time pressure to get the patching done you can do the patching as fast as possible and know that documenting it will be simple once the job is done.

    What is the advantage of documenting your connections? When I see a virused or non-company PC connected to the wired network I can deduce the switch port by interrogating the switch and then walk directly to the desk where the offending machine is located. If the walk seems like too much effort I can deduce the appropriate phone number and call because I also manage the phone switch and my phone cabling is labelled just the same.

    (In a large organization it is necessary sometimes to interrogate every switch on the site and deduce that the switch you are looking for has less machines connected to its port than the other switches which will also see the computer on their uplink ports. At this point you probably need to use your scripting language of choice. I used perl 10 years ago)

    Disadvantage: You become very intolerant of people who don't do the same thing. I grew tired of telling someone on a different continent that the computer named x on port y of switch z was virused and having the reply that there were more than 100 machines on that switch and it would take days to find the one I had identified.

    1. Re:Work smarter, not harder by UnoriginalBoringNick · · Score: 1

      Hmmm... I thought I was logged in when I posted

  88. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Nethead · · Score: 1

    Likely a small surface mount op-amp. Not a fun task to replace and requiring special & expensive tools. USB sound interface would be my suggestion.

    --
    -- I have a private email server in my basement.
  89. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by goose-incarnated · · Score: 1

    Thanks, it figures :-( Appreciate the suggestion.

    --
    I'm a minority race. Save your vitriol for white people.
  90. Hooks, like the ones in physics laboratories by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    A lot of hooks where you can hang the cables with their plug in between. We had these in school and I saw them at different places, where a lot of cables are needed for a short time. As I couldn't find a supplier, I made some myself. The principle is fairly simple and allows for fast random access.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9371
    (There are a lot more cables now, than when I took these pictures.)

  91. My Solution by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I do _lots_ of wiring and cable management as a network admin at a university. One of the things I routinely find is that you're going to have many people coming in and out of your organization that will be doing cabling for projects that are out of the scope of IT (AV systems come to mind, as do third party providers for certain deparments in our university) -- but due to convergence will be on your campus LAN. This eventually means you will be supporting it once the initial rough in / installation of the wiring is done.

    First and foremost, develop a wiring method policy for your institution or business, especially if you work in a big data center environment. For example, we have mandated that all new installations must be minimum Cat6 (for drops, for risers for anything carrying IP traffic). It may seem like overkill, but a building rewire to support the latest and greatest infrastructure will cost you big-time.

    Secondly, these days, there is no compelling reason to be using large amounts of BIX / CDT blocks in a communications closet unless you have old school PBX kicking around... even then, the only time you really need BIX/CDT blocks are for TN termination blocks and communication closet risers, the rest can (should) be your standard 8P8C modular plug patch bays, this will afford you the ability to patch quickly and inexpensively in the future, and if you're doing a VoIP migration will also allow you to avoid having to rewire large amounts of your communication closet.

    For cable management, use velcro, nothing more than a twist needs to be done to secure it (don't go overkill and wrap velcro over everything). Ty-Wraps / Cable-Ties are useful for plenum related applications, but even then remember that you don't need to sinch them down very tightly, only enough so that your bundle of cable won't move.

    I guess lastly use color coding for easy reference, for trunk cables or access to distribution layer use one color, for WiFi AP's use a different color, for UPS's use a different color, for regular PC's use a different color.. keep a small assortment of these colored patch cables in each closet. It really helps you quickly figure out what is going on in a closet when you can spot a cables usage by it's color.

    Of course, this is a system and only works if employee's adhere to it, so post your wiring methods/policy in each of your comm closets. Make sure contractors who are doing wiring know what the standards are.

    I would recommend this book:

    Cabling: The complete guide to Copper and Fiber Optic cabling, 4th Edition.
    by Andrew Oliviero; Bill Woodward.
    Print ISBN: 978-0-470-47707-6
    Web ISBN: 0-470477-07-5

  92. The only cable I really care about. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Is my mouse - what do you guys do about that?

    It drives me nuts the amount of things it can catch on (edge of desk, mousepad, everything in between). I absolutely despise wireless mouses lag (although I hear it's less noticeable these days -- probably due to the age of my friends increasing).

    I hadn't heard of CableDrop before -- that look like the best solution so far...

    1. Re:The only cable I really care about. by Lennie · · Score: 1

      1. Attach cable to the desk at the edge but with enough to move the mouse around obviously.
      2. keep the desk completely clean. Just a keyboard and mouse (my LCD-monitor is on a stand hanging over the desk).

      That way there is nothing in the way.

      Also supposedly, a clean desk means less distractions.

      --
      New things are always on the horizon
  93. Industrial Systems by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I am an electrical engineer who deals with industrial installations. What you want is steel perforated cable trays and cable ties. You will never have to move those cables again for 60+ years... Anything sensitive such as un-armoured fibres can also be run in ducting which is then bolted down onto the cable tray.

    The best thing about this solution is that with a hack saw, angle grinder, and diagonal snips it is infinity reconfigurable and the tray is easily obtainable. Also if you are having a problem with insects eating your cables you can also purchase double brass tape armoured cables with pepper spray embedded in the outer jacket.

  94. Neat Patch by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    stacks a patch panel, a spacer, cable mgmt, spacer, switch, spacer, patch panel...etc.
    You use 2' cables that go from the bottom 24 of the patch, make a loop in the mgmt, then into the top 24 if the switch.
    Finding ports is easy because your patches are one to one.

  95. Velcro + Key retractor by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I tie my cables together neatly with a strip of double-sided Velcro which I attach to the wire end of a key retractor. The spring in the key retractor prevents the cables from sagging. I then clip the key retractor to the back of my TV. Any time I pull the TV out, the key retractor releases the cables as needed.

  96. Authorized Personnel Only by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The absolute key to neat cable management is to keep sysadmins away from all wiring :-)

  97. Coffee bag tin-ties by oddaddresstrap · · Score: 1

    For a small bundle like a rolled up mouse or keyboard cable, a "tin-tie" peeled off a coffee bag (ie Starbucks) works nicely if you just wrap it around the bundle like a boa constrictor (not twisted on itself like a "twist-tie"). Easy to adjust and reuse.

  98. The secret is in the vertical management by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Management system with some kind of vertical channel. The vertical management part is where the magic happens. Something like the picture here: http://cableorganizer.com/panduit/patchrunner-vertical-cable-managers.html

  99. For living rooms: Make them a central feature by shish · · Score: 2

    It's a solution that only works in a very limited number of cases, but when it does, the results are beautiful

    --
    I mod down anyone who says "I will be modded down for this", regardless of the rest of their comment
  100. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Aighearach · · Score: 1

    You're

    Your. Much harder to replace?

  101. Easy DIY by subreality · · Score: 1

    I don't know an off-the-shelf product for this, but it's easy to DIY.

    Buy some hard drive power splitter or extension cables. Chop off the hard drive end. You now have four wires: +5V (red), +12V (yellow), and two grounds (black).

    Now chop the wall wart off the device's power cord. If you don't want to sacrifice a wall wart, head over to Mouser or Digikey, buy the appropriate type of plug and solder a tail on it.

    Strip the bitter ends of the wires and attach them with wire nuts, crimp lugs, solder + electrical tape, or any other method. Just make sure you get the polarity right - usually it's center positive, but check the diagram on the wall wart. Use a multi-meter if you're not sure.

    I've done this a few times with no ill consequences.

  102. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Nethead · · Score: 1

    It was a grammar nazi troll. ;)

    (No, I just fucked up.)

    --
    -- I have a private email server in my basement.
  103. The first step is ... by CAIMLAS · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Like any addiction, the first step is to admit that you've got a problem. :)

    Seriously, though. You've got to realize that whatever the result of your efforts is, it's still going to be non-ideal, even if it looks as uniform and as neat as humanly possible. The truth is, no matter of initial neatness will prevent someone from coming along and fucking it up, whether unintentionally and with good cause or because they're a lazy git.

    At home, I will label both ends of a cable that is likely to be sitting in a pile with other cables (usually - particularly when they're likely to be confused with others and when tracing the cable will be difficult). Just a simple file folder label or piece of tape, usually. Mostly, I don't worry about it, because at home "oops, I unplugged the system" only bothers me and/or my family. At work, it's another story: everything you do should be done to help mitigate downtime and improve your ability to effectively work with the cabling.

    On server racks, I prefer a handful of techniques. There are a couple principles I abide by:

    * always assume the rack will get messy over time
    * your original intent will not be the intent of the next person to come along
    * never assume a standard, because everyone has a different idea of how things should be done, and first impressions to that effect can be wrong
    * standards only make sense when the implementation requirements/specifications/etc. are identical/universal, eg. with electrical wiring or in a large hosting facility where everything is the same or there is a standard which can be applied to. This isn't usually the case with most colocated racks or with most server rooms, in my experience.
    * "Do things right the first time so you don't have to do them again". This applies generally to things like figuring out which cable goes where. "Right" is not necessarily the most aesthetic or "neat" option, but it is the laziest and most time-efficient, with an eye for long-term maintenance.

    The techniques are:

    For ethernet:
    * ethernet should not be bundled approximately 5 per group.
    * ethernet cable should be a rainbow of color, with different colors in each bundle. Eg: a bundle should have blue, green, red, white, etc. not multiples of any given color. This helps drastically when determining which cable goes to which system.
    * Jack ends should be labeled descriptively and dated at the time of labeling. The description should describe the other end of the cable, not the end you're labeling (eg: sw2j5 for the 2nd NIC in server 5 that goes to switch 2 jack 5, or 'svr5n2' on the other end).
    * use generic (not the 'fancy' ones) velcro straps to bundle the cable
    * do not bundle the bundles, especially with velcro (because it will stick to the bundle velcro and make things a mess). To hold them up and away, I prefer using 6" ball bungees (http://www.amazon.com/Ball-Bungee-Cord-6-White/dp/B000S5TWWO) or similar,
    * DO NOT USE HORIZONTAL CABLE MANAGEMENT PRODUCTS. DO NOT. They make a mess of things and, more often than not, get in the way more often than not. The one exception to this is on a part of the rack where you've got a patch panel or switching which is likely to remain consistent through several server iterations.
    * Do not pull the Ethernet to one side of the rack only. "Alternate" the bundles of ethernet to each side (like pigtails, sorta).

    For power:
    * Do not use the 6'+ power cables unless you need to. The cables are big enough and cheap enough to buy them in shorter lengths so you do not need to bundle them as much and the bundles are neater.
    * Label both ends with the name of the system in question (UPS side) and the UPS in question (server side).
    * Color code, if possible, by UPS. IE, if you have 2 PSUs per host, the first PSU gets black cables which go to one UPS, and the second gets grey cables which go to the other.

    --
    ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    1. Re:The first step is ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Some good points, but I take exception to a couple of them:

      You should label each cable end with where that end plugs into, not the other end like you do. The labeling isn't there to make tracing the cable easy, it's there to keep track of which cable end is plugged into which port on which device. If you insist on putting the 'far end' information on the cable, add a second label and make sure you clearly mark it as "far end".

      The color of your cables just depends on your environment. For some people, using a rainbow style like you do does help when tracing cables. But that's often not an option at all in large server racks, where you WILL end up with a shortage of colors.
      It's usually best to adopt a 'standard' of sorts, depending on your setup. I worked for an ISP, and in our co-location facilities we used Red to indicate large capacity Primary connections, Green for large capacity redundant connections, Yellow for management connections, Blue for the lower-important connections which didn't have redundancy, and Grey for connecting to other people's gear. Black was used for temporary cabling.

      In my home office, I use Red for my WAN uplink, Green for connecting my LAN gear together, Blue for wireless AP uplinks, and Black for connecting computers to the LAN. YMMV

    2. Re:The first step is ... by Lennie · · Score: 1

      I like to use pink for cross-cables. Because, well, they are different. ;-)

      --
      New things are always on the horizon
    3. Re:The first step is ... by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      The labeling isn't there to make tracing the cable easy, it's there to keep track of which cable end is plugged into which port on which device.

      No, it does both. The label assists with tracing, which labeling the 'correct' side doesn't do (telling you where that cable is plugged in on the other side). It's the only thing you can't tell by labeling the side 'correctly'.

      Meanwhile, you can still look at a cable that's plugged into a device and see "oh, hey, this cable is plugged into the device". Labeling it with that device's name saves you no time, and a situation where a cable would be unplugged on one end would be fairly easy to detect from either side. (Labeling the opposite end tells you where you need to look to figure out which machine is unplugged, however.)

      Labeling 'correctly' serves no better function, while delivering less.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    4. Re:The first step is ... by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Yeah, for infrastructure/interconnects/uplinks I'll use pink or red, and keep that out of my 'bundling', if it makes sense for the environment. But otherwise, it's a grab bag of different colors.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
  104. That's easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    I braid them.

  105. Cable ties are sometimes overrated by rickb928 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    One of my first network gigs, they converted from twinax to Cat5 for an army of 5150 terminals. Some glad to get rid of triax, but as they brought up the twisted pair terminals, they had trouble keeping some of them online for more than a few minutes. IBM subbed the cabling work out, and it took them weeks to give up and admit they had no idea what was wrong.

    At this point the powers-that-be were discussing the problem in the machine room, and their telecom tech was feeding another stick of gum into his mouth when I asked if they could stand a little advice. I recommended they loosen the cable ties that they used to bundel up the cable runs in the room and the various MDF rooms, they were pretty but very, very tight. Solved the problem. Turns out twinax waveform at the time was essentially a square wave, and UTP is not sielded like twinax. Crosstalk was the culprit. The clue? One big complaint from users was that they would get someone else's session for an instant on the scrren, then the terminal reset and they had to log in. Another session? Not exactly, but it did sometimes paint a little of screen from another session (cable) before it flipped out. Very unusual.

    This should not affect Ethernet, being resistant to all forms of interference including crosstalk etc, but no point in testing the theory. Velcro ties don't cause the crimping that ties do, and that crimping was the culprit. Compression shorts do still happen, not as often as they used to in telecom.

    And yes, plant ties are the bargain. Maybe soaking a few rolls in black dye to avoid the stigma of 'plant' ties will give you the panache you were looking for. Salt water sets the dye, avoids ruboff and black fingers. Or sell green as the new black.

    --
    deleting the extra space after periods so i can stay relevant, yeah.
  106. Route planning, not just bundling by whit3 · · Score: 2

    It is possible in most rack-mount (big cable complexity) systems to
    get your cables routed from the source, to the edge of the array,
    down (or up) the rack then across to the destination, if the wires
    are long enough. This is important if a box in the rack ever
    requires replacement, because all cables NOT routed to that box are out
    of the way for removal/replacement operations.

    It is relatively commonplace, in science labs, to see wiring tied to the
    rackmount modules' handles, just to keep its loops draped on the
    side, out of the way of maintenance and configure and monitor operations.
    It ought to be more commonplace, IMHO.

  107. Please don't use nylon zip ties by EnempE · · Score: 2

    Disclaimer: I did design comms cable systems and data rooms, but I have been out of the game for a few years. The opinions below are however based on physics, which hasn't changed too much in the last couple of years.

    Cable ties are not great for cat 5e, cat6, or higher speed twisted pair cables.

    The reason for this is that the zip tie gives you a point of mechanical assistance when tightening them, this gives you easily enough strength to deform the cable which can reduce its throughput. Double sided hook and loop is much better for this reason, and it is able to be reconfigured more easily. Most cable manufacturers will not permit the use of nylon ties of the cable that is installed in the walls, so you shouldn't encourage it in the office / data cabinet space either.

    I have designed a server room with cable hangers near the door with different length patch leads, if that is your thing. Generally however, if you provide enough space for vertical and horizontal cableways in the rack you can use patch leads of a single length (save purchase cost, if they are cat6 leads you will need that length anyway to reduce error rates) and the extra length can be hidden in the floor or above the rack in a cable tray.

    I quite like the cable managers with rounded 'fingers' that have covers that can clip off either way. Well labeled patch leads are great too!

    As the "IT guy" The most important thing for you to do is consider the volume and weight of the patch cables when you are designing your rack layout, you may be able to get a super high density switch, but if you don't leave enough RU around it then you will just create yourself a headache.

  108. PatchSee FTW by TobiasS · · Score: 1

    Aside from obviously keeping your cable management channels neat, PatchSee cables have been great. No more tracing a cable from the patch panel to the switch ... just inject light on one end and clearly see where the other end terminates. http://www.patchsee.com/ They are a bit more expensive than regular patch cables but totally worth it

  109. I use rubber bands by davesag · · Score: 3, Interesting

    We always seem have have millions of spare rubber bands in our house so, for my home office cabling needs, I affix ethernet and phone cables to the tops of the legs of my desk to prevent my kicking them by accident, using rubber bands.

    Now rubber bands don't actually last that long, a few months at most, before they dry out and snap. When they snap I tend to pull everything out of my office, vacuum and mop the floors, scrub the desk down and generally file all my shit. Then I go down to the kitchen and grab another 8 or so rubber bands and set everything up again. This both works well to keep cables off the floor and provides a handy timer to remind me to tidy up my office. And best of all those rubber bands are free.

    --
    I used to have a better sig than this, but I got tired of it
  110. Clever? Hah! by doccus · · Score: 1

    I've been a musician for 35 years .. and I gotta say, I have NEVER found a 'clever' way to sort em.. basically, draw it on paper, and tape 'em where they converge , and tape em where they diverge.. Best i know...

  111. Twist Ties... by WoTG · · Score: 1

    I keep all twist ties from new equipment in a pile for re-use. I strongly prefer them over zip strips... you can undo them. And then re-use them. I can't count how many times I've needed to add "just one" new cable and didn't have a zip strip handy.

    You can remove twist ties without tools. Further, half the time when I want to remove a zip strip I've only got a knife handy instead of diagonal cutters... that's just playing with fire...

    The only downside that I can think of with twist ties is that they're metal. I suppose they could cause a short if they snapped and fell into the wrong place... however, considering how many staples and paper clips litter floor of the average office, I think the additional risk from my twist ties are minimal.

  112. Best use of zip ties by lpt1 · · Score: 1

    For evil fun, simply go to the wiring closet and tighten each and every zip tie as tightly into the cables as possible.

    Then put in a large wiring change request.

  113. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by infolation · · Score: 1

    Pardon?

  114. Another honest answer by PowerCyclist · · Score: 0

    First, plan ahead and don't expect to get this done right away. Second, consider power management too. If you're lucky enough to be given a power station (like me) with a switch for each 110 V outlet that's great because they're generally expensive but VERY EASY TO DYI. Third, cut everything. Seriously, they're your cables (or your responsibility at a company) so cut them if they're way too long. Many people reading this already cut CAT-5 to custom lengths and that's not anywhere near as complicated as 2 and 3 wire power supply cords. In all likelihood everyone can dig up a spare IEC (common PC & monitor power standard) cable so just go ahead and try it. This only requires the most basic soldering skill and some electrical tape -or heatshrink tubing if you have it. Cut the middle of the cable out to get the length needed (plus one loop around your palm for slack) then solder the two end back together. If you need something longer down the road, that's OK because these cables are very easy to come by. Now, obviously I don't recommend cutting video cables (besides coax) as even if you're good at it the risk of signal pollution is high, but leaving power cords too long is a preventable danger. You know what the other name for a loop of wire is? A HEATER! Yep, to remind you of grade school physics, current passing through a loop of wire encounters greater resistance than if the wire were strait, the energy loss is expressed through a stronger electromagnetic field and heat -two of the three most damaging things to electronics. If you have a laptop, and you know you'll have it for a while, try to invest in a second power adapter for it that you can custom fit to your desk at home. This will reduce the risk of tripping on it, cut down on clutter, and lets the other power adapter stay packed in your travel case so that it's even easier to pack up your laptop.

  115. Really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    This really is a semi-retarded question for slashdot. Color code, use wireless when possible, and zip tie to keep clean and organized. I see a lot of "do my job for me" questions onhere, but seriously, think for two seconds and your solution is apparent. Work within your limits and think. This is why people hate IT. Simple solutions to asinine problems.

    Disclaimer: Very frustrated with my company's IT at the moment (granted, I can do their job better than they can.). It's questions like this that completely screw any confidence anyone has in you.

  116. Neat patch by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I ve used something called Neat Patch between my routers and patch panels, and I m very satisfied.

  117. Pegboard + variety of peg hardware by jr0dy · · Score: 1

    For me the problem was just as much the variety of physical devices to and from which cords were running as the problem with cords themselves (i.e. modem, router, UPS, etc.). Therefore, I went and had some pegboard cut to spec and mounted it on the back of my computer desk - such that some of it is accessible from the front, as well - and bought a variety bag of pegboard hardware (hooks, etc.). I then proceeded to mount my modem, router, UPS, USB hub, speakers, etc. on there, wired everything up, and used releasable zip ties to bundle up the cords. So far it's worked very nicely, and given me more desk space.

    --
    I heart anarcho-capitalism.
  118. Logging in by Lennie · · Score: 1

    I think you slashdot changed it's policy. You can't be logged in from different IP-addresses or browsers (haven't checked yet) at the same time.

    --
    New things are always on the horizon
  119. label ends, keep loose, use C-clamps by beniform · · Score: 1

    A few precepts for dressing patch cords from jack panels to connection equipment: 1. Tag cable ends for a hint to find matching ends, but don't trust them. Confirm by tugging from one end to the other. 2. Do not use text labels such as HostX-eth0: these will inevitably get re-used for HostY. 3. Always tag power cords. 4. Do not tie or bind cables tightly along their length. Doing so makes tracing cables impossible. 5. Avoid cable trays, wire mold, etc. Aluminum angle and C-clamps do it better and cheaper. 6. A bit too long is better than just enough. Avoid making a waterfall of short patch cords. 6. Coil with the sun.

  120. elastic bandages by dragmar · · Score: 1

    I use elastic bandages to wrap my cables. I use different colors for different cables, red for power, green for network, etc. Its easy to wrap and unwrap

    http://www.amazon.com/ANDOVER-COFLEX-ADHERENT-ELASTIC-COLORPACK/dp/B0006GWRCW/

  121. Pets by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    How do you keep them safe from being chewed on by a bunny?

  122. frogMob - Power by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    hundreds of photos taken from around the world addressing power cord management.

    http://frogmob.frogdesign.com/mob/power

  123. Re:Replaced the noisy tower with an iMac by Coren22 · · Score: 1

    That sounds like someone who needs to open up the iMac case and reseat the Mic connection...

    --
    APK likes to ask for responses to the same things over and over. Maybe he just likes the responses?
  124. Rules and Rapid Net by Alan+Evans · · Score: 1

    Some rules and technologies my company has adopted:

    Between racks
    1. Raised floor for air only, high ceilings for air buffer and room for overhead wiring, hot and cold aisle partitioning including doors at the end of aisles
    2. Power in conduit immediately above racks
    3. Cable ladders above power for Cat6, cable bundles are zip tied to ladders every second or third cross rung
    4. Fiber trays above cable trays for fiber
    5. Run cables from the rack to a row of 2 post rack w/ patch panels in a network cage
    6. Run cables from devices in another parallel row(high density line cards etc) to more 2 post racks in the first row via ladders running parallel and perpendicular to rows
    7. Use horizontal runs between rack and device patch panels to patch racks to infrastructure
    8. Dedicated 2 post racks for telco DMARC gear in another row again, perpendicular cable ladders between rows
    9. Clearly label everything using wire wrap labeler

    In the racks
    1. Use appropriate lengths for everything, fiber, patch and power
    2. Label everything using wire wrap labeler
    3. Use velcro straps as in rack cabling can change more frequently

    In specific we use RapidNet, you order pre terminated modules that you clip into 19" panels, they come terminated, tested and strapped in bundles of 6. Once your cable ladders and trays are up you know how long your runs are.
    http://www.hellermanntyton.us/rapidnet
    Some good pictures in: http://www.hellermanntyton.us/media/documents/LITPDDCS.pdf
    Check out page 9 for some similar to what I described above w/ different racks/cross connects.

  125. penny-pincher tip by Thud457 · · Score: 1

    You can find rolls of cheap double-sided velcro in the garden center of many big box hardware stores that is used for plant ties. Much cheaper than the pre-cut color coded ones. Any color you want as long as it's green.

    --

    the preceding comment is my own and in no way reflects the opinion of the Joint Chiefs of Staff

  126. or, if you really want to be rude: by Thud457 · · Score: 1
    --

    the preceding comment is my own and in no way reflects the opinion of the Joint Chiefs of Staff

    1. Re:or, if you really want to be rude: by screwdriver · · Score: 1

      Lol. "How to ask my mom for a bra without being..."

  127. schweet! by Thud457 · · Score: 1

    Wow, that is fantastic! A thing of beauty is a joy forever. And I'm not using that in the ironic sense in this case.

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    the preceding comment is my own and in no way reflects the opinion of the Joint Chiefs of Staff

  128. BT,DT,GtT by Thud457 · · Score: 1

    After an incident over Christmas when our kittens got bored and chewed up 15 cables, we went with split flexible corrugated tubing. It comes in 3/4" and 1 1/4" diameters and we got ours at Lowes.
    I had considered using a short piece of pvc gutter to build a cable tray, but decided not to in my case.
    For the computer desk, I ended up pulling the equipment on the floor out about 6" from the wall and cut some Masonite panels to create a gap along the wall with no kitten access.

    Apparently iPod charger cables are specially formulated to be extra tasty.

    --

    the preceding comment is my own and in no way reflects the opinion of the Joint Chiefs of Staff

  129. It helps to be a former Boy scout... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Never underestimate the low-tech solution. I use string... it's less permanent than cable ties, it's cheap and easy to undo. Plus, all that work you put into your knots merit badge pays off.

      However, for environments that might feature organic degradation, ordinary bag twist ties work pretty well, even if the result is a little less elegant.