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Ask Slashdot: Best Way To Destroy Hard Drives?

First time accepted submitter THE_WELL_HUNG_OYSTER writes "I have 10-15 old hard drives I want to trash, some IDE and some SATA. Even if I still had IDE hardware, I don't want to wait several weeks to run DBAN on all of them. I could use a degausser, but they are prohibitively expensive. I could send them to a data destruction firm, but can they be trusted? What's the fastest, cheapest DIY solution?"

49 of 1,016 comments (clear)

  1. oven by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

    high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

    1. Re:oven by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Insightful

      The first post is of course always the best suggestion yet, no matter how bad it is.

      --

      --
      make install -not war

    2. Re:oven by plover · · Score: 3

      high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

      Your oven goes to 1500 degrees? What the hell are you baking in it, ceramics?

      --
      John
    3. Re:oven by SCPRedMage · · Score: 4, Informative

      In the Air Force, we had EOD take care of the problem.

      With C4.

      And I'm not making this up. The drives weren't working, so we couldn't just wipe them, and EOD was bored and had explosives...

      --
      My sig can beat up your sig.
    4. Re:oven by sg_oneill · · Score: 5, Funny

      In the Air Force, we had EOD take care of the problem.

      With C4.

      And I'm not making this up. The drives weren't working, so we couldn't just wipe them, and EOD was bored and had explosives...

      When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail. In this case its a very very fun hammer.

      --
      Excuse the Unicode crap in my posts. That's an apostrophe, and slashdot is busted.
    5. Re:oven by Pieroxy · · Score: 3

      Actually, mine does and yes, we're baking ceramics paint.

    6. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 5, Informative

          Well, for those of us living in the civilian world, C4 is hard to get our hands on.

          Thermite, on the other hand, can be made rather easily from things around the house. A file or grinder, a bit of the appropriate metals, and an ignition source. Be sure that your "Member of the Overkill Club" card is up to date, and you're all set. 5 pounds of thermite vs 1 hard drive sounds just about right. Well, right through the drive, and the table, and the concrete below. :)

          Actually, thermite may be the better choice anyways, unless you want to notify everyone for miles that you're using C4. :) It has lots of hot, and not much bang. Well, especially compared to C4.

          And remember kids, don't try this at home. It's a really really (really) good way to burn down your house, get the police called by a neighbor, and/or be charged with arson and building explosives. Some law enforcement folks don't look upon such things as lightly as they used to.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    7. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Interesting

          Well....

          I had a friend who's drive was killed in a lightning strike. A friend of theirs swapped out the control board for another one. It physically fit, but released its magic smoke after just a few seconds. So, I inherited someone elses botched repair. Of course, I was 1,000 miles away, so it's not like I just stopped by to say "hi", and took a look at it. :)

          I did some digging, and found a guy who would send you the appropriate replacement board for something like $40. It would help to have the original board, but he figured out which board was correct for this drive, and it took a whopping 5 minutes to install. Most of that was finding the screws and screw driver. :)

          The only way to assure a drive is completely unrecoverable is physical destruction. Simple as that.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    8. Re:oven by dgatwood · · Score: 3, Insightful

      A blowtorch should do the same job and is a heck of a lot more practical....

      --

      Check out my sci-fi/humor trilogy at PatriotsBooks.

    9. Re:oven by davester666 · · Score: 5, Funny

      That's why you become a professional mourner. Show up at open-box funerals, ask if the current client is due to be cremated, then slip the HD into the casket!

      --
      Sleep your way to a whiter smile...date a dentist!
    10. Re:oven by kheldan · · Score: 3, Informative

      Place HDD on concrete, apply sledgehammer vigorously. Ta-da, unrecoverable HDD.

      Personally, I dismantle them for the magnets, and pull the platters out. If they're ceramic you can shatter them, if they're aluminum you can deface them, bend them, use the magnets to corrupt them, cut them in half with a hacksaw/bandsaw/whatever, be creative.

      --
      Are YOU using the TOOL, or is the TOOL using YOU? Think about it!
    11. Re:oven by Mr2cents · · Score: 4, Funny

      It was his favourite hard drive, he would have wanted to to take it with him...

      --
      "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
    12. Re:oven by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 3, Informative

      I don't know if they have reduced the MRI magnet strength over the years but when I got one about 10 years ago they told me the strength was 3 Webers. Looking up a quick translate table, 1 Weber = 1 Tesla, so either the old ones were 10x more powerful than the ones today, or you're an order of magnitude off.

      But yeah, letting one go within 20 feet of an MRI would suck it in so quick it might shoot out the other side, or maybe the field would be strong enough to just hold it once it sucked it in.

      For more cool scenes of devastation check out the image where an MRI sucked in a FORKLIFT! No shit, one of those large pallet jacks you use to drive pallets around factories, must weigh 100-150 lbs and it had NO PROBLEM sucking that into the maw of it's magnet, destroying it thoroughly, of course. Image is here: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question698.htm - check it out, if you ever had ANY doubt about the power and strength of an MRI magnet.

      --
      -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
    13. Re:oven by MrAngryForNoReason · · Score: 4, Informative

      so you could just walk in (hold drives very tightly), and keep them in the machine for a while.

      Not the best idea as the drives would be ripped out of your hand and fly towards the machine at a high enough velocity to kill anyone in the way. Oh and you would probably destroy the MRI in the process.

      There is a very good reason why you don't take metal anywhere near an MRI machine.

    14. Re:oven by WrecklessSandwich · · Score: 4, Interesting

      If you don't want to get into pyrotechnics but you have firearms: A .308 will do the trick.

      This. My boss at my old IT job used to go out to a firing range with one of the server guys on their lunch break and shoot old drives with a bunch of different guns. It makes a pretty awesome looking exit wound.

    15. Re:oven by LoRdTAW · · Score: 3, Informative

      I do the same thing at work. We have a wet saw for cutting welding samples and it cleanly slices through all kinds of metals without much of a problem. I put the drive on the table and run the blade into the platters about half way. It slices through the drive like a hot knife through butter. That disk will never be read again.

      Another way is to run them over with a forklift as they weigh twice as heavy as their lifting capacity. So a 6000 pound capacity forklift weighs in at around 12000 pounds meaning each tire has a crushing force of about 3000 pounds. Just don't do that on asphalt as your going to leave an imprint of the drive in it or possibly mush the drive into the pavement. I know not everyone has a fork lift but its one way to do it. I got that tip from a UPS driver who informed me that is how he destroys his old disks at work. I tried it and it seems to work very well. You just need a very heavy fork lift.

      Burning a drive doesn't guarantee it will destroy it unless you bring its temperature well over 1000F. And I believe the case of the drive is made from zinc which melts at 787F making it a liquid metal mess. Also, its circuit board will burn causing quite a stink so its one of the least clean methods of destroying a drive.

      And lastly the good ol' hammer works great. Just wear eye protection and your all set for some destructive fun. Just make sure you smash the platters and not just the circuit board. Use a cold chisel or punch to better focus the blow to the platters. Its simple, fast and just about everyone has a hammer lying around. Just do it on a hard surface like pavement or concrete. A kitchen table or counter top will deaden the blow and your almost guaranteed to damage them in the process.

  2. Drill by HeLLFiRe1151 · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Drill Baby Drill

    --
    I've got 101 mod points and you can't have them!
  3. Thermite by Kenja · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Exothermic oxidation-reduction makes drives dead.

    --

    "Have you ever thought about just turning off the TV, sitting down with your kids, and hitting them?"
  4. A 20oz framing hammer? by NoNonAlphaCharsHere · · Score: 5, Funny

    Remember: when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a skull.

  5. Take it apart of break it by Psychofreak · · Score: 3, Informative

    nail gun
    hammer, bigger may be better
    screwdriver, there are cool, powerful magnets inside and the aluminum chassis is recyclable for cash
    steel wool on the platter once taken apart (not really important by that time)
    Firearms, play safe

    Phil

    --
    Laugh, it's good for you!
  6. Hamer and punch by plover · · Score: 5, Informative

    If you're looking for fast production-line destruction, take a three pound hammer and punch. A punch driven through the aluminum plate covering the platter section, midway between the center spindle and the edge of the drive, down to the bottom of the case through the platters, will effectively destroy the disks. It will cheaply render the data unreadable to anyone who doesn't want to invest ten thousand dollars investigating the remains of the disks. You can crank through many disks per hour. A 3/8" bit in an electric drill would be similarly effective, and less labor intensive than a hammer, but slower.

    Leaving the aluminum plate covering on the drive has the added advantage of containing the shards if the disk platters are made of glass. Even so, I'd wear leather gloves and use eye protection if I were physically destroying them this way.

    But with 15 drives, it's just not that big of a job. Why make a big mess? Disassemble them. It takes about 10 minutes per drive, and it's both educational and fun. You can probably do it watching TV on the couch.

    A miniature Torx driver set (T6-T9, available from Sears), a flat bladed screwdriver, a #2 Philips screwdriver, and a pocket knife is all I need to take most drives apart down to their components. Recover the voice coil driver magnets, they're always useful. Remove the circuit boards and recycle them as they were probably soldered with lead. Remove the platters from the spindles. To truly be rid of the data, you'll have to basically destroy the platters in a very hot fire. Heating them past their Curie point will completely destroy the data, leaving them totally unrecoverable; but that may require heat as high as 1500 degrees F. You won't get that on a stovetop.

    --
    John
  7. Only one way to be sure. by WiglyWorm · · Score: 4, Interesting
  8. Move all your important data into them... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    ...delete all other copies.

    They should magically become unreadable.

  9. Just zero it by Reason58 · · Score: 4, Informative

    It is my understanding that there has never been a single proven recovery of a drive that was simply zeroed out. No silly "military grade" wipe software necessary.

    1. Re:Just zero it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

      Yes, their has been. I used to work for a group that did this. Our clients were BIG corperations and guys in cheep black suits. It really comes down to how much time and money you are willing to put into it, but 60% recovery was possible 3 years ago. Your not going to get that using the hardware on the drive (yes, the platters have to come off), but it is possible to get with the right tools and equipment.

    2. Re:Just zero it by daha · · Score: 5, Informative

      With specialized equipment drives can be easily recovered when wiped by zeros. With even more sophisticated methods drives that have been written over several times can be recovered layer by layer.

      Easily?!?! Layer by layer? Do you have personal experience recovering overwritten data in this fashion? If so, please let me know, my company would hire you in a heartbeat and you could name your price. This concept has been trashed over and over again on slashdot, and nothing has changed since the last time.

      Think of the signal for a single bit on a platter like a digital Jackson Pollock painting using only two colors. One color represents a 1, the other color is a 0. Each write is a new splatter that gives the picture a new dominant color, but there are still some pixels left over from the previous splatters around the edges. Once the color of a pixel is set, it is set until you change it and you have no idea if the same color pixel next to it was written at the same time or not. You can just see that the overall color of the entire image is one or the other.

      Now let's say, just for the sake of this discussion, that you were actually able to read these mythical "layers", or more appropriately, all the drops of the various splatters. Because this is a magnetic signal and not a physical layer of paint, you have no idea when any given pixel was written compared to the one next to it. There is no concept of a layer because the signals aren't stacked on top of each other, they are all next to each other. Now let's say that you have somehow managed to design and build the most sensitive magnetic read head ever conceived so that it is able to read the signal of every single molecule in the space that this bit occupies. That's great. Now you've determined that there were a bunch of 1's and 0's. Which order were they written in? Did that 1 from over to the left come before or after that 0 that you read from the lower right?

      Assuming you got that figured out, now you need to get the next 7 bits just to make a byte. Did you get all 8 bits from the same write put together? Or did you screw one up because you got the ordering of your "layers" a little mixed up?

      Now that you've got an entire byte reconstructed, you need to do the same with the other 511 bytes for the sector. Did you get all 4,096 bits for the sector correct for your "layer" of data? I'm a little skeptical...

      Now go get the rest of your file, because it probably isn't all contained within a single 512 byte sector, and it may very well be written to different regions of the drive if it wasn't all written as a contiguous allocation. Depending on the file system and the size of the file, it's could be guaranteed that it is not contiguous - ext3 will be non-contiguous if it is larger than 6K.

      Now that you have every bit recovered for a single file, did you get every bit correct? You're most likely in trouble if you screw up even a single bit and try to open it with the native application. LZ-based compression used for the file? It's almost sure to be busted as soon as you hit that bad bit and you won't be able to decompress anything beyond it. Different files have different tolerances, but unless you plan to look at everything with a hex editor, you're probably going to have a lot of trouble. Even something like a Word document (*.doc, not the *.docx) isn't going to be as easy as you think because the file does its own allocations of 64 bytes at a time within the file. If you did any edits, or have anything other than just plain text that is all the same font style, your text is no longer contiguous. If that Word document is using the new format (*.docx), then you out of luck because it is using a variant of LZ compression.

      Oh, the file was a picture? No, still not always going to help you. Certain graphics file formats, like JPEG, do tolerate some corruption of the data (depending on where the corruption shows up), but some are just as fragile as a compressed data file.

      Now repeat this for every file until you find files that are actually valuable to you. The amount of effort needed to reconstruct anything that has been overwritten far exceeds the value of whatever data it was.

  10. Re:How I've done it in the past... by danbuter · · Score: 5, Informative

    You can buy muriatic acid in just about any hardware store. It's basically hydrochloric acid.

  11. Data Backup / Data Destruction by QuasiSteve · · Score: 3, Informative

    What - we just had the "omg how do I save my pictures/videos for my great-great-great-grandchildren!?!?" 3-monthly Slashdot story, so now the "aaaargh! I can't let some schmuck discover all the home made porn and paste it all over the interwebs!!!" was overdue?

    Seriously, people... HDD tech hasn't changed enough to make the same answers from 5 years ago any different now.

    http://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aslashdot.org+how+to+dispose+of+hdd

  12. Re:Screwdriver by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

    I always take them apart for the free magnets inside.

  13. This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it. by AbRASiON · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I can't stand "security" people in business in general with this impulsive urge to physically destroy hard drives because of the data they stored.
    Go do some googling, a simple ONE PASS of 0's on the disk WILL make the data absoloutely, without question unrecoverable, anyone who tells you otherwise is in to voodoo and black magic or trying to make some profit.

    A huge amount of these "security professionals" insist on trashing perfectly good hardware for no apparent reason, it's a complete was of good resources.
    The amount of perfectly good disks I've seen killed is astounding and not always old clunkers either, some relatively decent sized, high performing disks to boot.

    DBAN doesn't take forever either, hook them up to a spare PC and fire it off, change the disks every couple of hours, infact if I recall DBAN supports multiple drives at the same time.
    Sure if you have a 40gb IDE or something, just drill a hole in it - but if you're trashing anything over 160gb you're starting to ruin perfectly good hardware, for the sake of being pedantic and frankly stupid - stop and just don't do it.
    This goes for anyone else suggesting the same thing, go and do some reading before believing any of this "must be 12pass write" rubbish to a disk.
    FWIW A good 0 write to a disk doesn't normally take more than a few hours.

  14. Open them up and salvage the magnets by SensitiveMale · · Score: 4, Informative

    Very powerful magnets in the drives. Open them up, take out the magnets, and throw away the drives. If you are really paranoid, pop the discs out. But definitely salvage the magnets. They come in handy.

  15. DBAN is unnecessary. by rollingcalf · · Score: 4, Informative

    One pass with zeroes or random data over the whole drive is sufficient, unless you expect that a large government agency is going to open up the hard drives and spend millions of dollars to attempt to recover the data (and even they might be unable to get at the overwritten data. See http://www.nber.org/sys-admin/overwritten-data-guttman.html).

    With dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sdb you can wipe all the hard drives in a weekend.

    --
    ---------
    There is inferior bacteria on the interior of your posterior.
  16. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by fuzzyfuzzyfungus · · Score: 4, Insightful

    The magnetic field patterns are on the surface of the platters. Sand the surface off(recommendation: do not breathe result.) and there is nothing to recover.

    Unless you have pretty cool secrets, though, nearly anything that prevents them from Just Working when plugged in is probably enough.

  17. Install Windows on Them by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Informative

    After installing Windows on a hard drive, it becomes worthless. And after a while the actual bits will become corrupted into random values.

    --

    --
    make install -not war

  18. If it can spin, it can be read. by Jimbob+The+Mighty · · Score: 3, Informative

    Thermite, or any other method to melt the platters.

  19. Re:How I've done it in the past... by pookemon · · Score: 5, Funny

    Basically, or is that acidically...

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    dnuof eruc rof aixelsid
  20. I'm poor, give them to me. by Nyder · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I'll clear them off for ya, sheesh, i'll rewrite data over 9000 times if it makes ya happy, but let me have the drives.

    I'm poor and destroying useful hardware hurts me.

    --
    Be seeing you...
  21. Re:Drill Press by plover · · Score: 3, Funny

    When I worked as a Data Security Tech we formatted them with 1's and 0's 7 times before crushing them with a drill press. NO ONE could recover that data.

    You crushed them with a drill press? Here's a tip: the switch on the drill press makes the pointed thing spin, and you can turn the handle to make the pointed thing put holes in the hard drives. It's much less work than crushing them.

    --
    John
  22. Nuke'm from orbit by erice · · Score: 4, Funny

    It's the only way to be sure

  23. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 4, Interesting

    http://hostjury.com/blog/view/195/the-great-zero-challenge-remains-unaccepted
    http://www.anti-forensics.com/disk-wiping-one-pass-is-enough-part-2-this-time-with-screenshots
    (Key quotes: Secure Deletion of Data from Magnetic and Solid-State Memory by Peter Gutmann (35 pass wipe originated from Mr. Gutmann)

    âoeAny modern drive will most likely be a hopeless task, what with ultra-high densities and use of perpendicular recording I donâ(TM)t see how MFM would even get a usable image, and then the use of EPRML will mean that even if you could magically transfer some sort of image into a file, the ability to decode that to recover the original data would be quite challenging.â)
    (Article itself) http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut001/pubs/secure_del.html

  24. Re:Thermite? by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Actually, there are a whole bunch of industries that have to destroy hard drives appropriately. Anything with names, address, DOB, SSN, CC#, etc... If an old drive that you let out of your custody is found, and even a small bit of data is recovered, that comes down on you like a ton of bricks. Well, a ton of lawsuits.

        You are correct though, we have our procedures specifically outlined. There's no question, check with the boss. There should be a formal written policy on it somewhere. If not, you aren't handling sensitive information, and/or you aren't in compliance.

        I wrote our book. It's only 107 pages. Of course, I am the IT boss.

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    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  25. Re:Use your drill by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Insightful

        You know what's funny? I have drives to destroy. 1,500 of them. There was sensitive data on them, so they have to be physically destroyed. If we were to go that route, it'd take ... well, it'd probably cost more in drill bits than it's worth. :)

        We found a local place that'll run drives through their shredder. No piece bigger than 1/4". They get to keep the scrap metal, but we have to transport the drives. Easy enough. If you look around enough, you're bound to find someone with such a facility.

     

    --
    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  26. Doesn't work as well as you think by artor3 · · Score: 3, Informative

    It doesn't work as well as you'd think - believe me, I've tried. What tends to happen is the thermite melts a small hole through the drive, and all drains to the bottom, where it burns a hole in the container and continues further down away from the drive. Even if you use a suitable container (for example, a bucket full of sand), it's difficult to get the whole drive to melt, and there's no way to know if the surviving platters got anywhere near their Curie point. Plus it's a pain in the ass to get the thermite to ignite, and the resulting thick black smoke may very well have your neighbors calling the fire department.

    In the end, it's much simpler and less frustrating to simply smash the thing to pieces with a sledge hammer. Thermite for its own sake is fun and (kinda) educational - it's just not a good tool for this job. If you're really paranoid, do a single pass of zeros (or ones, if you prefer) before breaking out the hammer, but it probably isn't necessary. Unless the FBI's hunting you, no one's gonna put in the effort to recover data off a smashed platter.

  27. Bankers! by BagOCrap · · Score: 3, Funny

    I just give my old hdd's to Icelandic bankers. You wouldn't believe how adept at destroying all kinds of evidence they've become.

    --
    -- Chaos, panic, pandemonium... My job here is done!
  28. Angle grinder by AliasMarlowe · · Score: 3, Informative

    An angle grinder with any metal-cutting bit will slice clean through the platters and circuit boards, making a pretty shower of sparks. It's much more satisfying than just using a drill, and at least as effective as swinging a big hammer on them.
    BTW, remember that destroying hard drives could easily be construed as "willful destruction of evidence" if you're later accused of anything (terrorism, copyright violation, or other heinous crimes). So, whatever method you choose, it might be advisable to destroy them out of the public eye...

    --
    Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. - Voltaire
  29. Amusing when "corrections" are wrong by dbIII · · Score: 3, Interesting

    The "wrong" moderation is not required because some are glass as you would have noticed if you've read about them or even better pulled some apart (and broken a platter or two - fracture surface looks like glass and is even transparent in the uncoated bits). They make good mirrors apart from the hole in the middle.
    A "not always right" mod may apply because not all of them are glass, but I never said they were but I suppose somebody attempting to read too much between the lines could assume I meant that with "It's glass in those drives". Maybe I should have written "a hell of a lot of drives have glass in them" but somebody that's never looked inside or read anything about their manufacture or never found some other way to get the merest fucking clue would probably still "correct" me before finding that even Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_platter) is a good enough source!
    What I don't know however is if it's haematite or magnetite on the surface of those platters since I've never stuck one under a microscope - anybody here know? It's obviously an oxide since fingerprints on the polished surface don't corrode and fingerprints on polished steel (and ferrite) corrode quickly enough that you can almost see it happening.

  30. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Shoe+Puppet · · Score: 3

    Why are you spending $20 on a caddy for 160gig when a new 1tb is $70?

    Because you don't actually need more than 160GB and it saves you $50?

    --
    (+1, Disagree)
  31. Volcano by galanom · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Here in Greece we have some volcanos that are easily accessible by the public and in fact some schools go there regularly. Last time I heard children went to either to the island of Nisyros or Santorini. There are plenty of holes to the ground that lava is visible. You can drop your hard drive there. Don't breath over the holes, I heard they smell terribly of brimstone. Don't fall inside. PS: Santorini is a great island to go to the summer, so perhaps you can combine those two activities.

  32. Don't destroy them! by GameboyRMH · · Score: 3, Informative

    Unless these disks are inoperative (and you say using DBAN is an option so I guess they aren't), don't physically destroy them! One overwrite with any data - ones, zeroes or random - is enough to make the data unrecoverable on a hard drive made in roughly the last 20 years, according to US NIST (just be sure to use a tool that overwrites bad sectors as well). You can do two if you're super-paranoid. If you want to do more than that, seek professional help - psychiatric help, not IT help.

    Then give the wiped disks to someone who could use them.

    --
    "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel