Slashdot Mirror


Ask Slashdot: Best Way To Destroy Hard Drives?

First time accepted submitter THE_WELL_HUNG_OYSTER writes "I have 10-15 old hard drives I want to trash, some IDE and some SATA. Even if I still had IDE hardware, I don't want to wait several weeks to run DBAN on all of them. I could use a degausser, but they are prohibitively expensive. I could send them to a data destruction firm, but can they be trusted? What's the fastest, cheapest DIY solution?"

101 of 1,016 comments (clear)

  1. oven by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

    high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

    1. Re:oven by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Insightful

      The first post is of course always the best suggestion yet, no matter how bad it is.

      --

      --
      make install -not war

    2. Re:oven by bipbop · · Score: 2

      -1 overrated. Heat works, but your oven doesn't run hot enough. Bad idea, in any case.

    3. Re:oven by plover · · Score: 3

      high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

      Your oven goes to 1500 degrees? What the hell are you baking in it, ceramics?

      --
      John
    4. Re:oven by SCPRedMage · · Score: 4, Informative

      In the Air Force, we had EOD take care of the problem.

      With C4.

      And I'm not making this up. The drives weren't working, so we couldn't just wipe them, and EOD was bored and had explosives...

      --
      My sig can beat up your sig.
    5. Re:oven by sg_oneill · · Score: 5, Funny

      In the Air Force, we had EOD take care of the problem.

      With C4.

      And I'm not making this up. The drives weren't working, so we couldn't just wipe them, and EOD was bored and had explosives...

      When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail. In this case its a very very fun hammer.

      --
      Excuse the Unicode crap in my posts. That's an apostrophe, and slashdot is busted.
    6. Re:oven by dutchwhizzman · · Score: 2

      They turn it on, the drives get launched by the magnetic field and hit someone in the head, causing permanent brain damage. They then use the drive serial numbers to track them to you and sue you in the gutter.

      Magnetic drill bits don't drill any better than non-magnetic drill bits. What's your point? You still need to drill the platters into small bits before you can be relatively certain no useful information can be retrieved.

      --
      I was promised a flying car. Where is my flying car?
    7. Re:oven by Pieroxy · · Score: 3

      Actually, mine does and yes, we're baking ceramics paint.

    8. Re:oven by HermMunster · · Score: 2

      Much ado about nothing. Remove the circuit boards. There'll be nigh chance in hell anyone will find a matching board for that model ***and that batch*** in order to get at the data. Toss the drives afterwards. And degaussers are rarely reliable.

      --
      You can lead a man with reason but you can't make him think.
    9. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 5, Informative

          Well, for those of us living in the civilian world, C4 is hard to get our hands on.

          Thermite, on the other hand, can be made rather easily from things around the house. A file or grinder, a bit of the appropriate metals, and an ignition source. Be sure that your "Member of the Overkill Club" card is up to date, and you're all set. 5 pounds of thermite vs 1 hard drive sounds just about right. Well, right through the drive, and the table, and the concrete below. :)

          Actually, thermite may be the better choice anyways, unless you want to notify everyone for miles that you're using C4. :) It has lots of hot, and not much bang. Well, especially compared to C4.

          And remember kids, don't try this at home. It's a really really (really) good way to burn down your house, get the police called by a neighbor, and/or be charged with arson and building explosives. Some law enforcement folks don't look upon such things as lightly as they used to.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    10. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Interesting

          Well....

          I had a friend who's drive was killed in a lightning strike. A friend of theirs swapped out the control board for another one. It physically fit, but released its magic smoke after just a few seconds. So, I inherited someone elses botched repair. Of course, I was 1,000 miles away, so it's not like I just stopped by to say "hi", and took a look at it. :)

          I did some digging, and found a guy who would send you the appropriate replacement board for something like $40. It would help to have the original board, but he figured out which board was correct for this drive, and it took a whopping 5 minutes to install. Most of that was finding the screws and screw driver. :)

          The only way to assure a drive is completely unrecoverable is physical destruction. Simple as that.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    11. Re:oven by dgatwood · · Score: 3, Insightful

      A blowtorch should do the same job and is a heck of a lot more practical....

      --

      Check out my sci-fi/humor trilogy at PatriotsBooks.

    12. Re:oven by Joce640k · · Score: 2

      Thermite ought to do it.

      (Don't know where you'll get some but somebody has to say "thermite" in the monthly appearance of this topic...)

      --
      No sig today...
    13. Re:oven by davester666 · · Score: 5, Funny

      That's why you become a professional mourner. Show up at open-box funerals, ask if the current client is due to be cremated, then slip the HD into the casket!

      --
      Sleep your way to a whiter smile...date a dentist!
    14. Re:oven by kheldan · · Score: 3, Informative

      Place HDD on concrete, apply sledgehammer vigorously. Ta-da, unrecoverable HDD.

      Personally, I dismantle them for the magnets, and pull the platters out. If they're ceramic you can shatter them, if they're aluminum you can deface them, bend them, use the magnets to corrupt them, cut them in half with a hacksaw/bandsaw/whatever, be creative.

      --
      Are YOU using the TOOL, or is the TOOL using YOU? Think about it!
    15. Re:oven by Nefarious+Wheel · · Score: 2

      Ever tried to cut aluminum sheet with an oxy torch? If you don't contain the heat, you'll often get exactly nowhere. Stuff conducts heat way too fast to cut in some circumstances. I'd say make a little oven out of ceramic -- bricks will probably do. It will melt at strawberry red, but it won't cut.

      --
      Do not mock my vision of impractical footwear
    16. Re:oven by Mr2cents · · Score: 2

      You can buy Al powder at any store that sells chemical supplies. It's quite a mess to work with, however, it's dusty and sticks to everything.

      --
      "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
    17. Re:oven by Mr2cents · · Score: 4, Funny

      It was his favourite hard drive, he would have wanted to to take it with him...

      --
      "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
    18. Re:oven by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 3, Informative

      I don't know if they have reduced the MRI magnet strength over the years but when I got one about 10 years ago they told me the strength was 3 Webers. Looking up a quick translate table, 1 Weber = 1 Tesla, so either the old ones were 10x more powerful than the ones today, or you're an order of magnitude off.

      But yeah, letting one go within 20 feet of an MRI would suck it in so quick it might shoot out the other side, or maybe the field would be strong enough to just hold it once it sucked it in.

      For more cool scenes of devastation check out the image where an MRI sucked in a FORKLIFT! No shit, one of those large pallet jacks you use to drive pallets around factories, must weigh 100-150 lbs and it had NO PROBLEM sucking that into the maw of it's magnet, destroying it thoroughly, of course. Image is here: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question698.htm - check it out, if you ever had ANY doubt about the power and strength of an MRI magnet.

      --
      -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
    19. Re:oven by MrAngryForNoReason · · Score: 4, Informative

      so you could just walk in (hold drives very tightly), and keep them in the machine for a while.

      Not the best idea as the drives would be ripped out of your hand and fly towards the machine at a high enough velocity to kill anyone in the way. Oh and you would probably destroy the MRI in the process.

      There is a very good reason why you don't take metal anywhere near an MRI machine.

    20. Re:oven by WrecklessSandwich · · Score: 4, Interesting

      If you don't want to get into pyrotechnics but you have firearms: A .308 will do the trick.

      This. My boss at my old IT job used to go out to a firing range with one of the server guys on their lunch break and shoot old drives with a bunch of different guns. It makes a pretty awesome looking exit wound.

    21. Re:oven by LoRdTAW · · Score: 3, Informative

      I do the same thing at work. We have a wet saw for cutting welding samples and it cleanly slices through all kinds of metals without much of a problem. I put the drive on the table and run the blade into the platters about half way. It slices through the drive like a hot knife through butter. That disk will never be read again.

      Another way is to run them over with a forklift as they weigh twice as heavy as their lifting capacity. So a 6000 pound capacity forklift weighs in at around 12000 pounds meaning each tire has a crushing force of about 3000 pounds. Just don't do that on asphalt as your going to leave an imprint of the drive in it or possibly mush the drive into the pavement. I know not everyone has a fork lift but its one way to do it. I got that tip from a UPS driver who informed me that is how he destroys his old disks at work. I tried it and it seems to work very well. You just need a very heavy fork lift.

      Burning a drive doesn't guarantee it will destroy it unless you bring its temperature well over 1000F. And I believe the case of the drive is made from zinc which melts at 787F making it a liquid metal mess. Also, its circuit board will burn causing quite a stink so its one of the least clean methods of destroying a drive.

      And lastly the good ol' hammer works great. Just wear eye protection and your all set for some destructive fun. Just make sure you smash the platters and not just the circuit board. Use a cold chisel or punch to better focus the blow to the platters. Its simple, fast and just about everyone has a hammer lying around. Just do it on a hard surface like pavement or concrete. A kitchen table or counter top will deaden the blow and your almost guaranteed to damage them in the process.

    22. Re:oven by Matey-O · · Score: 2

      Harbor Freight Hydraulic Press. The data's hard to retrieve if things aren't flat and spinny anymore. $59 ($48 with 20% off coupon). I dare you to get data off this:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/33743995@N00/6197334169/

      (And at 2 minutes vs. Several Hours, it's faster, too!)

      --
      "Draco dormiens nunquam titillandus."
    23. Re:oven by WatchMaster · · Score: 2

      I've been there. These methods work, and are practical for a reasonably large number of drives:

      1) put them in a fire in your fireplace. Most of the thin aluminum will melt leaving just some metallic debris. 100% destroyed. I've done this, it is simple and very effective.

      2) drill some holes in them with a drill press, so that holes pass through the platters. Theoretically some data could be recovered although it is very unlikely.

    24. Re:oven by TWX · · Score: 2

      I actually use a hammer most of the time. Take the drive, put it at a 45 angle leaning against a parking curb, then star wacking it with a small sledge. Creasing the platters is really all it takes to render them unreadable.

      If you're really bored, or really paranoid, go buy yourself a 20ton shop press and smash them with that. They're around $300 for a cheap one that will work well enough.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
  2. Drill by HeLLFiRe1151 · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Drill Baby Drill

    --
    I've got 101 mod points and you can't have them!
    1. Re:Drill by marcushnk · · Score: 2

      Yeah, Drill and then after you've drilled it power it up and make the platter spin up and scratch the living fuck out of what wasn't drilled.

      --
      "Consider how lucky you are that life has been good to you so far. Alternatively, if life hasn't been good to you so far
    2. Re:Drill by multisync · · Score: 2

      Sledge hammer works well too. Hit it until it rattles like a maraca.

      --
      I don't care why you're posting AC
  3. How I've done it in the past... by omglolbah · · Score: 2

    * Drill a hole, pour in acid.
    ** Pro: Fast, cheap
    ** Con: Requires you to have access to an acid

    * Drill a hole, pour in resin.
    ** Pro: Fast
    ** Con: Not so cheap due to the cost of the resin.. Unless you swipe it at work :p

    * Explosives
    ** Pro: Fast, extremely effective and damn fun!
    ** Con: Most of the time illegal.... *cough*

    1. Re:How I've done it in the past... by danbuter · · Score: 5, Informative

      You can buy muriatic acid in just about any hardware store. It's basically hydrochloric acid.

    2. Re:How I've done it in the past... by pookemon · · Score: 5, Funny

      Basically, or is that acidically...

      --
      dnuof eruc rof aixelsid
    3. Re:How I've done it in the past... by dbIII · · Score: 2

      Which acid? HF to attack the glass (if you are insane enough to fool about with HF if you don't have to) or something else to attack the oxide coating?
      I've seen hot citric acid used on an industrial scale to clean magnetite out of boiler tubes but dilute nitric didn't seem to do anything to the magnetite on samples taken out of boiiler tubes for analysis. Would phosphoric acid work?

  4. Thermite by Kenja · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Exothermic oxidation-reduction makes drives dead.

    --

    "Have you ever thought about just turning off the TV, sitting down with your kids, and hitting them?"
  5. A 20oz framing hammer? by NoNonAlphaCharsHere · · Score: 5, Funny

    Remember: when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a skull.

  6. Take it apart of break it by Psychofreak · · Score: 3, Informative

    nail gun
    hammer, bigger may be better
    screwdriver, there are cool, powerful magnets inside and the aluminum chassis is recyclable for cash
    steel wool on the platter once taken apart (not really important by that time)
    Firearms, play safe

    Phil

    --
    Laugh, it's good for you!
  7. Unscrew them, separate components, dispose by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I did it today to one. Unscrew them, take the plates, throw them in different recycling bins/garbage cans/whatever. If you're concerned about someone snooping in your garbage, drop one off at a different gas station every morning. Plus you get some neat looking polished Al/Ni discs out of it if you don't feel like throwing them away...12 year old drive's guts were shinier than a bathroom mirror today

  8. Hamer and punch by plover · · Score: 5, Informative

    If you're looking for fast production-line destruction, take a three pound hammer and punch. A punch driven through the aluminum plate covering the platter section, midway between the center spindle and the edge of the drive, down to the bottom of the case through the platters, will effectively destroy the disks. It will cheaply render the data unreadable to anyone who doesn't want to invest ten thousand dollars investigating the remains of the disks. You can crank through many disks per hour. A 3/8" bit in an electric drill would be similarly effective, and less labor intensive than a hammer, but slower.

    Leaving the aluminum plate covering on the drive has the added advantage of containing the shards if the disk platters are made of glass. Even so, I'd wear leather gloves and use eye protection if I were physically destroying them this way.

    But with 15 drives, it's just not that big of a job. Why make a big mess? Disassemble them. It takes about 10 minutes per drive, and it's both educational and fun. You can probably do it watching TV on the couch.

    A miniature Torx driver set (T6-T9, available from Sears), a flat bladed screwdriver, a #2 Philips screwdriver, and a pocket knife is all I need to take most drives apart down to their components. Recover the voice coil driver magnets, they're always useful. Remove the circuit boards and recycle them as they were probably soldered with lead. Remove the platters from the spindles. To truly be rid of the data, you'll have to basically destroy the platters in a very hot fire. Heating them past their Curie point will completely destroy the data, leaving them totally unrecoverable; but that may require heat as high as 1500 degrees F. You won't get that on a stovetop.

    --
    John
    1. Re:Hamer and punch by mea_culpa · · Score: 2

      Be careful with some of the components if you are letting children have them or play with them.
      Some drive platters are glass instead of aluminum and it is very difficult to know the difference from handling them. My daughter dropped one on the floor and it shattered into very dangerous shards. I was shocked as I believed they were all aluminum. I think most IBM/Hitachi Deskstar drives are glass but there could be others.
      She really loves the rare earth magnets but learned real quick that the can pinch very easily. Also these are powerful enough to permanently destroy CRT based TVs if you still have them around. No amount of degaussing brought a Sony Wega back to normal.

  9. Only one way to be sure. by WiglyWorm · · Score: 4, Interesting
    1. Re:Only one way to be sure. by iamhassi · · Score: 2

      Drive slagging. http://eecue.com/c/driveslag

      ^----- this. When all that's left is a pile of melted aluminum there is nothing to recover. Even with a hole in the drive or a shredded drive there's still intact pieces, if you really want to do it right you have to melt it down to just aluminum.

      --
      my karma will be here long after I'm gone
  10. 44 Auto Mag by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    Just fun.

  11. Blendtec by tekgoblin · · Score: 2

    Just ask Blendtec, Will it Blend? LOL http://www.youtube.com/user/Blendtec Love these videos

  12. Paper Shredder by ub3r+n3u7r4l1st · · Score: 2

    Open it up, pull the plates out, and run through each one via a shredder, using the slot for CD-ROM if your shredder has one, otherwise the normal slot for paper is fine. Just make sure you don't put it more than one at a time, and be prepare to endure the noise it generates.

  13. Move all your important data into them... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    ...delete all other copies.

    They should magically become unreadable.

  14. Just zero it by Reason58 · · Score: 4, Informative

    It is my understanding that there has never been a single proven recovery of a drive that was simply zeroed out. No silly "military grade" wipe software necessary.

    1. Re:Just zero it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

      Yes, their has been. I used to work for a group that did this. Our clients were BIG corperations and guys in cheep black suits. It really comes down to how much time and money you are willing to put into it, but 60% recovery was possible 3 years ago. Your not going to get that using the hardware on the drive (yes, the platters have to come off), but it is possible to get with the right tools and equipment.

    2. Re:Just zero it by Mashiki · · Score: 2

      Nope. That's modern drives, or anything made in the last 5-7ish years. Anything before that you still need to take some precautions in wiping data.

      --
      Om, nomnomnom...
    3. Re:Just zero it by jimicus · · Score: 2

      I think that's exactly the sort of thing the GP was talking about.

      There is a lot of talk about "with specialised equipment, wiping with zeroes doesn't wipe" but AFAICT, when actually pressed nobody ever follows that up with "and I know of this data recovery company that can do it". My own research suggests that there was once an academic paper which suggested reading a drive with an electron microscope as being hypothetically possible but didn't actually go ahead and do it; Steve Gibson has posited something similar but I don't think it's ever left the realms of the hypothetical.

    4. Re:Just zero it by daha · · Score: 5, Informative

      With specialized equipment drives can be easily recovered when wiped by zeros. With even more sophisticated methods drives that have been written over several times can be recovered layer by layer.

      Easily?!?! Layer by layer? Do you have personal experience recovering overwritten data in this fashion? If so, please let me know, my company would hire you in a heartbeat and you could name your price. This concept has been trashed over and over again on slashdot, and nothing has changed since the last time.

      Think of the signal for a single bit on a platter like a digital Jackson Pollock painting using only two colors. One color represents a 1, the other color is a 0. Each write is a new splatter that gives the picture a new dominant color, but there are still some pixels left over from the previous splatters around the edges. Once the color of a pixel is set, it is set until you change it and you have no idea if the same color pixel next to it was written at the same time or not. You can just see that the overall color of the entire image is one or the other.

      Now let's say, just for the sake of this discussion, that you were actually able to read these mythical "layers", or more appropriately, all the drops of the various splatters. Because this is a magnetic signal and not a physical layer of paint, you have no idea when any given pixel was written compared to the one next to it. There is no concept of a layer because the signals aren't stacked on top of each other, they are all next to each other. Now let's say that you have somehow managed to design and build the most sensitive magnetic read head ever conceived so that it is able to read the signal of every single molecule in the space that this bit occupies. That's great. Now you've determined that there were a bunch of 1's and 0's. Which order were they written in? Did that 1 from over to the left come before or after that 0 that you read from the lower right?

      Assuming you got that figured out, now you need to get the next 7 bits just to make a byte. Did you get all 8 bits from the same write put together? Or did you screw one up because you got the ordering of your "layers" a little mixed up?

      Now that you've got an entire byte reconstructed, you need to do the same with the other 511 bytes for the sector. Did you get all 4,096 bits for the sector correct for your "layer" of data? I'm a little skeptical...

      Now go get the rest of your file, because it probably isn't all contained within a single 512 byte sector, and it may very well be written to different regions of the drive if it wasn't all written as a contiguous allocation. Depending on the file system and the size of the file, it's could be guaranteed that it is not contiguous - ext3 will be non-contiguous if it is larger than 6K.

      Now that you have every bit recovered for a single file, did you get every bit correct? You're most likely in trouble if you screw up even a single bit and try to open it with the native application. LZ-based compression used for the file? It's almost sure to be busted as soon as you hit that bad bit and you won't be able to decompress anything beyond it. Different files have different tolerances, but unless you plan to look at everything with a hex editor, you're probably going to have a lot of trouble. Even something like a Word document (*.doc, not the *.docx) isn't going to be as easy as you think because the file does its own allocations of 64 bytes at a time within the file. If you did any edits, or have anything other than just plain text that is all the same font style, your text is no longer contiguous. If that Word document is using the new format (*.docx), then you out of luck because it is using a variant of LZ compression.

      Oh, the file was a picture? No, still not always going to help you. Certain graphics file formats, like JPEG, do tolerate some corruption of the data (depending on where the corruption shows up), but some are just as fragile as a compressed data file.

      Now repeat this for every file until you find files that are actually valuable to you. The amount of effort needed to reconstruct anything that has been overwritten far exceeds the value of whatever data it was.

  15. Data Backup / Data Destruction by QuasiSteve · · Score: 3, Informative

    What - we just had the "omg how do I save my pictures/videos for my great-great-great-grandchildren!?!?" 3-monthly Slashdot story, so now the "aaaargh! I can't let some schmuck discover all the home made porn and paste it all over the interwebs!!!" was overdue?

    Seriously, people... HDD tech hasn't changed enough to make the same answers from 5 years ago any different now.

    http://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aslashdot.org+how+to+dispose+of+hdd

  16. Re:Screwdriver by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

    I always take them apart for the free magnets inside.

  17. This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it. by AbRASiON · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I can't stand "security" people in business in general with this impulsive urge to physically destroy hard drives because of the data they stored.
    Go do some googling, a simple ONE PASS of 0's on the disk WILL make the data absoloutely, without question unrecoverable, anyone who tells you otherwise is in to voodoo and black magic or trying to make some profit.

    A huge amount of these "security professionals" insist on trashing perfectly good hardware for no apparent reason, it's a complete was of good resources.
    The amount of perfectly good disks I've seen killed is astounding and not always old clunkers either, some relatively decent sized, high performing disks to boot.

    DBAN doesn't take forever either, hook them up to a spare PC and fire it off, change the disks every couple of hours, infact if I recall DBAN supports multiple drives at the same time.
    Sure if you have a 40gb IDE or something, just drill a hole in it - but if you're trashing anything over 160gb you're starting to ruin perfectly good hardware, for the sake of being pedantic and frankly stupid - stop and just don't do it.
    This goes for anyone else suggesting the same thing, go and do some reading before believing any of this "must be 12pass write" rubbish to a disk.
    FWIW A good 0 write to a disk doesn't normally take more than a few hours.

  18. Open them up and salvage the magnets by SensitiveMale · · Score: 4, Informative

    Very powerful magnets in the drives. Open them up, take out the magnets, and throw away the drives. If you are really paranoid, pop the discs out. But definitely salvage the magnets. They come in handy.

    1. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by L4t3r4lu5 · · Score: 2

      Oh sweet jesus, my sincere apologies for the travesty above. Proof reading is obviously a skill I need to work on.

      I did this just this week, but with floppy disks. I keep three neodymium magnets stuck to the heating pipe on the other side of the room, with a piece of cardboard folded around them to form a handle. I tried one disk with readable data before and after: Data readable before exposure, "The disk is not formatted" afterwards. I waved the magnet over the disk two or three times, and it was all gone.

      I've not done this with a hard drive yet (Health and safety might be a bid annoyed at 7200rpm bare metal disks on my desk). I expect the same results.

      --
      Finally had enough. Come see us over at https://soylentnews.org/
  19. DBAN is unnecessary. by rollingcalf · · Score: 4, Informative

    One pass with zeroes or random data over the whole drive is sufficient, unless you expect that a large government agency is going to open up the hard drives and spend millions of dollars to attempt to recover the data (and even they might be unable to get at the overwritten data. See http://www.nber.org/sys-admin/overwritten-data-guttman.html).

    With dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sdb you can wipe all the hard drives in a weekend.

    --
    ---------
    There is inferior bacteria on the interior of your posterior.
  20. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by fuzzyfuzzyfungus · · Score: 4, Insightful

    The magnetic field patterns are on the surface of the platters. Sand the surface off(recommendation: do not breathe result.) and there is nothing to recover.

    Unless you have pretty cool secrets, though, nearly anything that prevents them from Just Working when plugged in is probably enough.

  21. Install Windows on Them by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Informative

    After installing Windows on a hard drive, it becomes worthless. And after a while the actual bits will become corrupted into random values.

    --

    --
    make install -not war

  22. If it can spin, it can be read. by Jimbob+The+Mighty · · Score: 3, Informative

    Thermite, or any other method to melt the platters.

  23. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Reason58 · · Score: 2

    You actually do not have to sit there turning a crank to power the computer. Simply start the process and then let it run. Less than a half hour of your time in total, and you have irrecoverable data.

  24. Don't Be Too Quick To Destroy by tgeek · · Score: 2

    Especially for some of the older models, check ebay first to see what they're selling for. You may be surprised at what some DIY drive rebuilders will pay for an exact match of a drive they're trying to fix. That useless-to-you old 40GB drive may contain the exact drive motor or controller somebody's looking for (and willing to pay for).

  25. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by mr.mctibbs · · Score: 2

    Jesus GOD mod parent up! Remember when security progressives realized that security is a cost vs. effort equation? That applies to hardware destruction. It's not fucking worth it. How many assholes with a grudge do you think actually have an electron microscope and enough hatred for you to want to use it just to get your company's expense reports? Get off the ego trip, buy a degaussing wand (what the DoD uses, btw) and take off the damned tinfoil hat.

  26. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by plover · · Score: 2

    Physical destruction is appropriate for used drives because they're really bad resources. Spinning disk drives are machines that wear out over time. They get a few thousand hours on them, and then they die.

    I've measured the actual MTTF of drives that had published specs promising 300,000 hours MTTF. Of a population of 24 drives, I had 30% mortality within 60,000 hours (with somewhere near 25,000 being the mean.) That means we saw quite a bit less than the 300,000 promised hours. And these were the all-the-money high quality 15K RPM server drives, properly mounted in cooled systems, not the cheap consumer grade drives that were roasted in a cheap PC case. Old drives are a time-bomb with a very finite life.

    New drives are down to $0.05 per gigabyte or less. They use less electricity than older drives, and have capacities far greater. And the machines aren't worn to within a few hours of the end of their useful life. It's false economy to think that old drives are worth saving. They're certainly not worth risking your data on.

    --
    John
  27. Re:Drill Press by dfsmith · · Score: 2

    They definitely wouldn't be able to get the data back if you'd formatted them with 2's and 3's.

  28. RAID 5 array by bgonderi · · Score: 2

    Put them into a RAID 5 array. Tap one of the hard drives while it's running - this will lead to array failure. When it tries to rebuild, it's almost guaranteed to hose all your data. To increase the chances of data loss, be sure to place the only copies of pictures/videos of important events in your child's life.

  29. I'm poor, give them to me. by Nyder · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I'll clear them off for ya, sheesh, i'll rewrite data over 9000 times if it makes ya happy, but let me have the drives.

    I'm poor and destroying useful hardware hurts me.

    --
    Be seeing you...
  30. From now on... by Ectospheno · · Score: 2

    Others have posted on what to do with your current problem. Now that you see how annoying it can be may I suggest full hard drive encryption from now on. Then when you want to get rid of the drive you just throw it away.

  31. Re:Drill Press by plover · · Score: 3, Funny

    When I worked as a Data Security Tech we formatted them with 1's and 0's 7 times before crushing them with a drill press. NO ONE could recover that data.

    You crushed them with a drill press? Here's a tip: the switch on the drill press makes the pointed thing spin, and you can turn the handle to make the pointed thing put holes in the hard drives. It's much less work than crushing them.

    --
    John
  32. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    ^ This.

    Modern ATA drives (post 2001-ish) have secure erase which includes erasing damaged sectors which would otherwise be skipped over.

    Number of overwrites needed

    This is one of the laziest posts I have seen yet on Slashdot. wtf people use the internet it's faster than waiting for slashdotters to use the internet for you.

  33. Seconded on DBAN. by SexyKellyOsbourne · · Score: 2

    I was about to post this myself, but DBAN will do the trick. There's practically no way anyone will recover anything but a few random strings of plain text out of that, and that's only if they have the analog tools in a forensics lab. Even the chance of reconstructing a usable credit card account out of that is in the same probability range as guesswork.

    But I will say that your estimate of 200GB is pretty low for what's worth re-using unless you're broke. Any drive that's been in use for 3-5 years is well past warranty and isn't really worth putting anything valuable on without a sensible backup and recovery scheme. Any drive 200GB in size (unless it's SSD, etc) is usually at least that old, I had a 200GB drive personally in early 2003. A brand new 1TB drive will only run $55.

    (I of course agree that throwing fresh 3TB drives into tubs of driveway cleaner simply to "100% wipe data" would be absolutely stupid.)

  34. My advice... by Literaphile · · Score: 2, Insightful

    ... get over yourself. Your data is not that important. Nobody cares.

  35. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by ackthpt · · Score: 2

    The magnetic field patterns are on the surface of the platters. Sand the surface off(recommendation: do not breathe result.) and there is nothing to recover.

    Unless you have pretty cool secrets, though, nearly anything that prevents them from Just Working when plugged in is probably enough.

    As many are glass, just remove the screws, open and hit with a hammer. Don't forget your safety glasses!

    --

    A feeling of having made the same mistake before: Deja Foobar
  36. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Not true. A data recovery firm can look at the magnetic rings left on the disk and determine what the data was before the 0's were written to it.

    I have never seen any actual evidence of successfully recovered data using such a method. Not to mention, assuming it is possible, there is no way this process is cheap. Your data just is not anywhere close to that interesting.

    http://xkcd.com/538/ (read the mouseover)

  37. Nuke'm from orbit by erice · · Score: 4, Funny

    It's the only way to be sure

  38. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 4, Interesting

    http://hostjury.com/blog/view/195/the-great-zero-challenge-remains-unaccepted
    http://www.anti-forensics.com/disk-wiping-one-pass-is-enough-part-2-this-time-with-screenshots
    (Key quotes: Secure Deletion of Data from Magnetic and Solid-State Memory by Peter Gutmann (35 pass wipe originated from Mr. Gutmann)

    âoeAny modern drive will most likely be a hopeless task, what with ultra-high densities and use of perpendicular recording I donâ(TM)t see how MFM would even get a usable image, and then the use of EPRML will mean that even if you could magically transfer some sort of image into a file, the ability to decode that to recover the original data would be quite challenging.â)
    (Article itself) http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut001/pubs/secure_del.html

  39. On your own? Sure. In business? No! by SexyKellyOsbourne · · Score: 2, Insightful

    If you're destroying drives on your own, go for it. But in any kind of business, even if you don't have some old motherboard with an IDE connector, it's worth spending the $20 on an adapter or card to just DBAN those crappy old drives.

    Why? Solely to prevent someone from injuring themselves while destroying old hard drives with a drill, which is bad in itself. It's worse when they bill the company for the ER visit because a spark gets in their eye. It gets even worse when they go on perfectly collectible workers comp and settle a lawsuit because they weren't given safety goggles when they did so.

    Or, more realistically, some manager or person in HR from chewing you out for an hour and writing you up just because they think that way, and you allowed it to happen. And even that will probably not happen, but do always CYA just in case.

    1. Re:On your own? Sure. In business? No! by avandesande · · Score: 2

      Zeroing a hard drive takes a LONG time. If you have more than a handful sending them through a recycler's shredder is probably more cost effective.

      --
      love is just extroverted narcissism
  40. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by 1u3hr · · Score: 2

    old hard drives that are too small to be worth someone's time reusing (really who needs a 20 gig hard drive)

    He said some were SATA; I really doubt any SATA drives would be that small. It's just machismo: "My data is so evil and important that the NSA would spend a million dollars to recover it so I have to reduce the disc to constituent atoms".

    Bollocks. Just write zeroes over it and you are safe in the real world. CSI and 24 notwithstanding.

  41. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by bzipitidoo · · Score: 2

    What I find funny is the contradiction. When you want to make data unrecoverable, you have to do some serious abuse. Drilling a hole might not be enough! But when a hard drive begins to fail, somehow that same data is so delicate that any mistake, or no mistake, will lose it all, no recovery possible.

    --
    Intellectual Property is a monopolistic, selfish, and defective concept. It is "tyranny over the mind of man"
  42. there have been recoveries by dutchwhizzman · · Score: 2

    There was, but that was in the times that the air was clean and sex was dirty. A large capacity drive was 20MB and comprised of 4 platters in a 5.25" enclosure, double the size of a CD-ROM drive.

    The original question stated no connecting the drives up to a computer was possible, since the owner didn't own anything that still had the required connectors/controllers to do so. Zeroing out isn't an option within the constraints given.

    --
    I was promised a flying car. Where is my flying car?
  43. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by edmudama · · Score: 2

    The above is the easiest way to do it.

    Just open it up with a torx wrench, and sand the platters by hand with some 60 grit paper until they're not shiny. The magnetic dipoles only goes a few tens of nanometers deep on the surface of the platter.

    --
    More data, damnit!
  44. Wrong! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    The truth is that it comes down to COST. It is a bit like encryption, in that it is all about TIME and COST to brute force it. So how important your data might be to somebody is the real factor here. For 99.9% of threats you simply break the circuit board or remove it. 1 bad chip, cap, or resistor would stop these people from using the drive completely. Have you ever tried to get a drive working with a defective circuit board??? I have and it is not easy because most times revisions break compatibility so you'd have to find the exact same board; possibly even the same exact revision. The older the drive the trickier (but cheaper) finding a board gets.

    Old drives leave trace data that a zero wipe will not stop and with the right gear it can be recovered. Private corps don't disclose all their tricks, researchers publish most the techniques they think of, the FBI won't get past the techniques you can find out about or they can hire out; while military or other gov have access to more cutting edge techniques. Ever hear of a low level format?? well, that places plenty of gaps on the drive-- you know the drive heads just don't calculate their position on the platter, the platters are encoded with position information. Anyhow, the older the drive the more gap space there is for one to process the noise and extract past recordings-- the newer drives are so advanced they are approaching magnetic "atomic" microscopes (note: I said "approaching,")

    An FBI or private firm may have a drive head scanning microscope (using drive tech to cheaply make fast and effective drive scanners) but this will not be cheap to use; also, if you do an IDE zero wipe (if supported) the firmware level wipe will be low level and cover just about the whole surface making it safe. The other gov with more resources and time can probably go a little further... but not all that much for huge cost increases. In theory, a higher resolution reading device can pick up noise 'echos' in the material just as they can recover audio from tape a few times back- somebody dealing in this realm is not you and the cost and expertese must be crazy and on newer drives (possibly everything in the last decade) those techniques may not be feasible at all (but govs worry because unless it is proven somebody might have found a way.)

    Poking holes in the platters will stop people willing to drop $1000+ to recover it. For more they can get partial data from segments of it but its not likely going to be all that useful (could be, this is where file fragmentation can cause big troubles.) Holes or shattered platters will make pretty much every reading device really labor intensive and expensive to use.

    It is true that gov level wipe algs are pointless because that technique was devised for older drives with different kinds of encoding and also include techniques for floppies -- so doing the 35? pass is actually stupid because it covers a whole range of situations, no device needing them all. Canada for example, their gov lowered it down to 3 pass I think last time I looked.... like 10 years ago I think. a 1 pass is likely enough except for gov. high level gov mandates incineration as a blanket policy.

    I say bust a chip; or remove the boards. that is plenty. if paranoid; then damage the platters (or the actuator arm... or a clever person would run a car battery into a few key points to kill the heads or motor in a few seconds.)

    FYI: I have an expert level knowledge in this area.

  45. Re:Thermite? by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Actually, there are a whole bunch of industries that have to destroy hard drives appropriately. Anything with names, address, DOB, SSN, CC#, etc... If an old drive that you let out of your custody is found, and even a small bit of data is recovered, that comes down on you like a ton of bricks. Well, a ton of lawsuits.

        You are correct though, we have our procedures specifically outlined. There's no question, check with the boss. There should be a formal written policy on it somewhere. If not, you aren't handling sensitive information, and/or you aren't in compliance.

        I wrote our book. It's only 107 pages. Of course, I am the IT boss.

    --
    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  46. Re:Use your drill by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Insightful

        You know what's funny? I have drives to destroy. 1,500 of them. There was sensitive data on them, so they have to be physically destroyed. If we were to go that route, it'd take ... well, it'd probably cost more in drill bits than it's worth. :)

        We found a local place that'll run drives through their shredder. No piece bigger than 1/4". They get to keep the scrap metal, but we have to transport the drives. Easy enough. If you look around enough, you're bound to find someone with such a facility.

     

    --
    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  47. Doesn't work as well as you think by artor3 · · Score: 3, Informative

    It doesn't work as well as you'd think - believe me, I've tried. What tends to happen is the thermite melts a small hole through the drive, and all drains to the bottom, where it burns a hole in the container and continues further down away from the drive. Even if you use a suitable container (for example, a bucket full of sand), it's difficult to get the whole drive to melt, and there's no way to know if the surviving platters got anywhere near their Curie point. Plus it's a pain in the ass to get the thermite to ignite, and the resulting thick black smoke may very well have your neighbors calling the fire department.

    In the end, it's much simpler and less frustrating to simply smash the thing to pieces with a sledge hammer. Thermite for its own sake is fun and (kinda) educational - it's just not a good tool for this job. If you're really paranoid, do a single pass of zeros (or ones, if you prefer) before breaking out the hammer, but it probably isn't necessary. Unless the FBI's hunting you, no one's gonna put in the effort to recover data off a smashed platter.

  48. Bankers! by BagOCrap · · Score: 3, Funny

    I just give my old hdd's to Icelandic bankers. You wouldn't believe how adept at destroying all kinds of evidence they've become.

    --
    -- Chaos, panic, pandemonium... My job here is done!
  49. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by Patch86 · · Score: 2

    It depends who you're trying to hide your data from. When I bin a hard drive, I'm only worried about two-bit scam artists going through my trash and finding some meet for identity theft, maybe manage to skim a credit card number, They'll be more than thwarted by bashing the thing with a hammer a couple of times until the plates rattle and the connector is mashed out of shape.

    It might not protect me from the full might of the world's intelligence services- but they're not exactly a main concern of mine.

  50. A big shock wave also does that by dbIII · · Score: 2

    A shock wave passing through the material causes enough local heating (and a lowering due to pressure) to pass the curie point (there's papers about that happening in iron powder composites) - but a shock wave that big is most likely going to come from the sort of impact that would shatter the glass platters anyway.
    It's glass in those drives. A big drop onto a hard surface is probably all you need instead of ovens and explosives.

    1. Re:A big shock wave also does that by BlueStrat · · Score: 2

      A shock wave passing through the material causes enough local heating (and a lowering due to pressure) to pass the curie point (there's papers about that happening in iron powder composites) - but a shock wave that big is most likely going to come from the sort of impact that would shatter the glass platters anyway.
      It's glass in those drives. A big drop onto a hard surface is probably all you need instead of ovens and explosives.

      For practicality, I like the kind of HDD-destroying "shock wave" produced by putting a number of 3/4-inch holes clean through the drive in the platter area with a drill press.

      Several good whacks with a 10-pound sledgehammer to top it off, and whoever wants to recover anything useable/useful off of that particular drive had better have some mad skills, low expectations, and a long time to spend doing it!

      Besides, if there are people willing to try recovering data from a drive of yours after such measures, you're most likely already hiding in some hole in Lower Bumfukistan to avoid a drone strike.

      Strat

      --
      Progressivism (aka US 'Liberalism'): Ideas so good they need a police/surveillance-state to enforce.
  51. Actually useful advice here by RichiH · · Score: 2

    I am going to be boring and tell you what I learned from the founder of a data recovery company.

    1) One single pass of zeros is enough. urandom if you want to be paranoid.
    2) If you want, or need (auditing, etc), to physically destroy the drives: Bend the platters. As soon as the platters are bent, you can not spin them for data extraction, any more. Keeping in mind the distance between head and platters, even the slightest bend becomes irreparable. And as soon as you can't spin them, you are looking at scanning the whole platter without any fancy off-the-shelf controller logic.

    According to him, those are the only two cases when they tell the customer over the phone that they don't even have to bother sending the disks in.

  52. Re:cat /dev/urandom /dev/hda by cpghost · · Score: 2
    Speaking from experience, it is usually more than enough to overwrite the whole disk with random data. Even a single pass is usually enough to thwart any attempt at reconstruction.

    But, for the truly paranoid, you have to bypass or trick the controller to also overwrite the remapped bad sectors. That's not trivial a task, or, more precisely, it depends heavily on the controller's firmware and drive model.

    --
    cpghost at Cordula's Web.
  53. From past experience... by Peet42 · · Score: 2

    ...the best way to guarantee that a drive will immediately become permanently unreadable and unrecoverable is to put the only copy of some really important data on to it, and let nature do the rest. (What? Doesn't nature hate you too?)

  54. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Gaygirlie · · Score: 2

    There are really some voodoo and black magic that can recover data if you erase disk that way. Last time my colleague has to pay ~US$600 on his own accord to recover data on a harddisk he accidentally overwrote with a ghost image. We didn't call for rocket scientists's help, just paid a specialist and the data was back.

    Sounds more like that the data wasn't overwritten, the specialist just located the data on the disk and assembled it together. That's a whole lot different thing than trying to recover data that was overwritten and it sure as hell would cost a four-figure number, not ~$600.

    Also, you would like to be aware of the fault-tolerant design of modern harddisk that might replicate data in hidden storage, which might be up to 15% of the published space. So, erase 7 times with patterns, degauss, or even physical destroy is really necessary for erasing sensitive data.

    Not needed. A single ATA "secure erase" command is enough as that command also clears out remapped bad sectors and other areas only the drive itself can access.

  55. Angle grinder by AliasMarlowe · · Score: 3, Informative

    An angle grinder with any metal-cutting bit will slice clean through the platters and circuit boards, making a pretty shower of sparks. It's much more satisfying than just using a drill, and at least as effective as swinging a big hammer on them.
    BTW, remember that destroying hard drives could easily be construed as "willful destruction of evidence" if you're later accused of anything (terrorism, copyright violation, or other heinous crimes). So, whatever method you choose, it might be advisable to destroy them out of the public eye...

    --
    Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. - Voltaire
    1. Re:Angle grinder by Just+Brew+It! · · Score: 2

      Just be careful (wear your safety goggles), especially if you've got a drive with glass platters. Glass shards being flung by an angle grinder sound like they could be at least moderately hazardous...

  56. Amusing when "corrections" are wrong by dbIII · · Score: 3, Interesting

    The "wrong" moderation is not required because some are glass as you would have noticed if you've read about them or even better pulled some apart (and broken a platter or two - fracture surface looks like glass and is even transparent in the uncoated bits). They make good mirrors apart from the hole in the middle.
    A "not always right" mod may apply because not all of them are glass, but I never said they were but I suppose somebody attempting to read too much between the lines could assume I meant that with "It's glass in those drives". Maybe I should have written "a hell of a lot of drives have glass in them" but somebody that's never looked inside or read anything about their manufacture or never found some other way to get the merest fucking clue would probably still "correct" me before finding that even Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_platter) is a good enough source!
    What I don't know however is if it's haematite or magnetite on the surface of those platters since I've never stuck one under a microscope - anybody here know? It's obviously an oxide since fingerprints on the polished surface don't corrode and fingerprints on polished steel (and ferrite) corrode quickly enough that you can almost see it happening.

  57. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Shoe+Puppet · · Score: 3

    Why are you spending $20 on a caddy for 160gig when a new 1tb is $70?

    Because you don't actually need more than 160GB and it saves you $50?

    --
    (+1, Disagree)
  58. Volcano by galanom · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Here in Greece we have some volcanos that are easily accessible by the public and in fact some schools go there regularly. Last time I heard children went to either to the island of Nisyros or Santorini. There are plenty of holes to the ground that lava is visible. You can drop your hard drive there. Don't breath over the holes, I heard they smell terribly of brimstone. Don't fall inside. PS: Santorini is a great island to go to the summer, so perhaps you can combine those two activities.

  59. Don't destroy them! by GameboyRMH · · Score: 3, Informative

    Unless these disks are inoperative (and you say using DBAN is an option so I guess they aren't), don't physically destroy them! One overwrite with any data - ones, zeroes or random - is enough to make the data unrecoverable on a hard drive made in roughly the last 20 years, according to US NIST (just be sure to use a tool that overwrites bad sectors as well). You can do two if you're super-paranoid. If you want to do more than that, seek professional help - psychiatric help, not IT help.

    Then give the wiped disks to someone who could use them.

    --
    "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
  60. Kiln or forge by mcgrew · · Score: 2

    You can make a kiln for almost nothing. Bury the drives in a barrel of sawdust, with large holes at the bottom of the barrel, and light it from the bottom. You can fire clay with a primitive kiln like that, it should be hot enough to melt the drives.

    A blacksmith's forge can get hot enough to literally burn steel.

  61. Use Secure Erase by Sycraft-fu · · Score: 2

    There's a command in the IDE and SATA spec just for this, called Secure Erase. Just get a program that can run it. It wipes everything, including reallocated sectors, the whole 9 yards.

  62. Melt them by redwraith94 · · Score: 2

    The best way overall is to dismantle them, and melt the platters. Most platters are composed of an Aluminum alloy (~660 Celsius max melting point). The media layer that actually stores the data can vary widely between manufacturers, and product lines (Usually based on a Cobalt Chromium alloy with Platinum or Tantalum). There is no reasonably easy way to get the curie point, or the coercivity of the platters. The curie point (temperature at which the magnetic domains randomize) varies widely due to composition, and the parameters of the CVD, or PVD process, as does the coercivity (which determines the strength of the magnetic field needed to degauss the platters). The curie point of a thin film (~micron) media layer is usually substantially less than the 'bulk' curie point of the alloy, and it may be that the thin film curie point is lower than the melting point of the substrate, however it still would be a feat to find this information for each drive that you needed to wipe. So if you melt the substrate layer, then the particles left over from the media layer will be randomly oriented (even if they haven't been 'erased' by the heat), and so there would be no way to recover the data from them. You would need some torx screwdrivers, and either an oven (that gets hot enough, not an oven for baking), or a propane torch (1,000 Celsius / 1800 Fahrenheit). I use the Craftsmen variety, but they can have a tendency to break in the middle as they aren't 'full tang', they will work alirght if you are careful though. Using software can be alright, though you can't really be sure the data is gone, since the first data written gets the deepest, and widest recorded track, there may be a thin area of the data track where previously written information is still stored. Also as Peter Gutmann described it is unknown what encoding scheme is used, his 35 pass method is only suggested for PRML encoded drives, he recommends as many passes as feasible of pseudo-random data for today's hard drives. Dismantling, and melting is easier, and more assured imo.

    --
    I art more snarky, and terse than thou. I art Slashdot!