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Ask Slashdot: Best Way To Destroy Hard Drives?

First time accepted submitter THE_WELL_HUNG_OYSTER writes "I have 10-15 old hard drives I want to trash, some IDE and some SATA. Even if I still had IDE hardware, I don't want to wait several weeks to run DBAN on all of them. I could use a degausser, but they are prohibitively expensive. I could send them to a data destruction firm, but can they be trusted? What's the fastest, cheapest DIY solution?"

636 of 1,016 comments (clear)

  1. oven by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

    high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

    1. Re:oven by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Insightful

      The first post is of course always the best suggestion yet, no matter how bad it is.

      --

      --
      make install -not war

    2. Re:oven by bipbop · · Score: 2

      -1 overrated. Heat works, but your oven doesn't run hot enough. Bad idea, in any case.

    3. Re:oven by plover · · Score: 3

      high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

      Your oven goes to 1500 degrees? What the hell are you baking in it, ceramics?

      --
      John
    4. Re:oven by FictionPimp · · Score: 1

      We run ours though a saw, cut them clean in half.

    5. Re:oven by crafty.munchkin · · Score: 1
      Yes but conventional home ovens won't go high enough. How's this for an idea... Take it to your nearest hospital. Sneak into the room where they keep the MRI, and leave the hard drives in the bottom. Wait for them to turn on the MRI and BAM!!! All your magnetic field are belong to us!!!

      Sounds like too much effort? Worried about legal ramifications? Fine. Just get a magnetic drill bit and then drill through the platters. Cheap, effective... but nowhere near as cool as sticking them in the MRI :)

      --
      ... wait, what?
    6. Re:oven by SCPRedMage · · Score: 4, Informative

      In the Air Force, we had EOD take care of the problem.

      With C4.

      And I'm not making this up. The drives weren't working, so we couldn't just wipe them, and EOD was bored and had explosives...

      --
      My sig can beat up your sig.
    7. Re:oven by sg_oneill · · Score: 5, Funny

      In the Air Force, we had EOD take care of the problem.

      With C4.

      And I'm not making this up. The drives weren't working, so we couldn't just wipe them, and EOD was bored and had explosives...

      When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail. In this case its a very very fun hammer.

      --
      Excuse the Unicode crap in my posts. That's an apostrophe, and slashdot is busted.
    8. Re:oven by dutchwhizzman · · Score: 2

      They turn it on, the drives get launched by the magnetic field and hit someone in the head, causing permanent brain damage. They then use the drive serial numbers to track them to you and sue you in the gutter.

      Magnetic drill bits don't drill any better than non-magnetic drill bits. What's your point? You still need to drill the platters into small bits before you can be relatively certain no useful information can be retrieved.

      --
      I was promised a flying car. Where is my flying car?
    9. Re:oven by SCPRedMage · · Score: 1

      We observed from about a mile away, and I could STILL feel it from there...

      --
      My sig can beat up your sig.
    10. Re:oven by Pieroxy · · Score: 3

      Actually, mine does and yes, we're baking ceramics paint.

    11. Re:oven by cheater512 · · Score: 1

      Yeah in a MRI they would go airborne at high velocities.

      The magnetic drill bit isn't that bad of an idea though. A spinning magnetic field while causing physical damage.
      I'd want the drill bit to be a neodymium magnet though.

    12. Re:oven by HermMunster · · Score: 2

      Much ado about nothing. Remove the circuit boards. There'll be nigh chance in hell anyone will find a matching board for that model ***and that batch*** in order to get at the data. Toss the drives afterwards. And degaussers are rarely reliable.

      --
      You can lead a man with reason but you can't make him think.
    13. Re:oven by Arlet · · Score: 1

      The MRI field is always on, so you could just walk in (hold drives very tightly), and keep them in the machine for a while.

    14. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 5, Informative

          Well, for those of us living in the civilian world, C4 is hard to get our hands on.

          Thermite, on the other hand, can be made rather easily from things around the house. A file or grinder, a bit of the appropriate metals, and an ignition source. Be sure that your "Member of the Overkill Club" card is up to date, and you're all set. 5 pounds of thermite vs 1 hard drive sounds just about right. Well, right through the drive, and the table, and the concrete below. :)

          Actually, thermite may be the better choice anyways, unless you want to notify everyone for miles that you're using C4. :) It has lots of hot, and not much bang. Well, especially compared to C4.

          And remember kids, don't try this at home. It's a really really (really) good way to burn down your house, get the police called by a neighbor, and/or be charged with arson and building explosives. Some law enforcement folks don't look upon such things as lightly as they used to.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    15. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Interesting

          Well....

          I had a friend who's drive was killed in a lightning strike. A friend of theirs swapped out the control board for another one. It physically fit, but released its magic smoke after just a few seconds. So, I inherited someone elses botched repair. Of course, I was 1,000 miles away, so it's not like I just stopped by to say "hi", and took a look at it. :)

          I did some digging, and found a guy who would send you the appropriate replacement board for something like $40. It would help to have the original board, but he figured out which board was correct for this drive, and it took a whopping 5 minutes to install. Most of that was finding the screws and screw driver. :)

          The only way to assure a drive is completely unrecoverable is physical destruction. Simple as that.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    16. Re:oven by dgatwood · · Score: 3, Insightful

      A blowtorch should do the same job and is a heck of a lot more practical....

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    17. Re:oven by Joce640k · · Score: 2

      Thermite ought to do it.

      (Don't know where you'll get some but somebody has to say "thermite" in the monthly appearance of this topic...)

      --
      No sig today...
    18. Re:oven by davester666 · · Score: 5, Funny

      That's why you become a professional mourner. Show up at open-box funerals, ask if the current client is due to be cremated, then slip the HD into the casket!

      --
      Sleep your way to a whiter smile...date a dentist!
    19. Re:oven by Adriax · · Score: 1

      Macgyver made it in an episode once. Just a 50/50 mix of iron rust and aluminum If I remember right.

      --
      I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!
    20. Re:oven by johnsnails · · Score: 1

      Hitting the hd's with a rubber mallet will shatter the insides disks, rendering them unreadable

    21. Re:oven by Inanna-qui-baille · · Score: 1

      I had two old IDE drives I wanted to retreive data from, one of them had its circutry fried and my friend who helped me with this this found exactly the needed parts to make it work again.

    22. Re:oven by admiralranga · · Score: 1

      killjoy, thermite is so much more fun

    23. Re:oven by kheldan · · Score: 3, Informative

      Place HDD on concrete, apply sledgehammer vigorously. Ta-da, unrecoverable HDD.

      Personally, I dismantle them for the magnets, and pull the platters out. If they're ceramic you can shatter them, if they're aluminum you can deface them, bend them, use the magnets to corrupt them, cut them in half with a hacksaw/bandsaw/whatever, be creative.

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    24. Re:oven by nospam007 · · Score: 1

      A small script writing a gazillion times 'Best Way To Destroy Hard Drives?' on the disk should suffice.

    25. Re:oven by 1s44c · · Score: 1

      high temperature destroys the magnetic field.

      How hot? Because my oven doesn't have a nuclear fusion setting.

    26. Re:oven by 1s44c · · Score: 1

      Great. So we hang around outside model airplane stores and wait for the FBI to sell us some C4.

      I have 30 to 40 drives I need to destroy, I'm not sure they will want to give me that much C4.

    27. Re:oven by Dr_Barnowl · · Score: 1

      It's making the aluminium powder that's the tedious bit. You have to grind it slowly because it has a tendency to burn.

      (Aluminium is actually quite reactive with oxygen - the reason it's "stainless" is because this means that it always has a thin coating of oxide on it, which is white).

    28. Re:oven by Genda · · Score: 1

      LOX + damn near anything... makes a hot pretty fire and after the dot clears from you vision you can be assured your drive has been slagged.

    29. Re:oven by Genda · · Score: 1

      I'm sorry but the magnetic field surrounding an MRI would launch that drive at significantly more than lethal velocities and probably destroy the MRI as well. MRIs for clinical use operate at between 0.2 and 0.3 Teslas, more than 5,000 times stronger than the earth's magnetic field. There are laboratory devices though, running up to 12 Tesla, generating fields in excess of a quarter a million times as powerful as the earth's. That drive would shoot through the room, through a couple victims, then through the wall, and then through a few more victims. They won't sue you, but their survivors will.

    30. Re:oven by atisss · · Score: 1

      Even if he's not cremated - the HDD will be six feet underground for centuries (normally). Unless he has been murdered - nobody will be digging up that grave.

    31. Re:oven by Cwix · · Score: 1

      SO much more fun when you pull the plunger yourself.

      Continue to supply hard drives and they might let you.

      --
      You are entitled to your own opinions, not your own facts.
    32. Re:oven by Nefarious+Wheel · · Score: 2

      Ever tried to cut aluminum sheet with an oxy torch? If you don't contain the heat, you'll often get exactly nowhere. Stuff conducts heat way too fast to cut in some circumstances. I'd say make a little oven out of ceramic -- bricks will probably do. It will melt at strawberry red, but it won't cut.

      --
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    33. Re:oven by JosKarith · · Score: 1

      I heard that the army way was to chop the drives up, grind them into dust then put the dust through an incinerator. but your way sounds a lot more fun.
      My method is lift the lid on the HDD, then spin it up and wave one of the insanely powerful magnets from the head mechanism of another HDD over the surface. Hey presto, no readable data. Though I do wonder how much mileage you'd get from drilling a hole in the corner and pouring in some sand while it's running.

      --
      'Don't worry' said the trees when they saw the axe coming, 'The handle is one of us.'
    34. Re:oven by Eunuchswear · · Score: 1

      Great. So we hang around outside model airplane stores and wait for the FBI to sell us some C4.

      Buggers would probably give you play-doh.

      If you're in America, why not just shoot them? (The drives, not the FBI I hasten to add).

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    35. Re:oven by sFurbo · · Score: 1

      I'm not sure the magnets are strong enough to wipe the plates. The harder it is to change the magnetic orientation, the smaller the domains can become, and the higher the disk capacity. IIRC, if you try to apply that amount of magnetic field as a uniform magnetic field, the platters bend before they are wiped.

    36. Re:oven by Mr2cents · · Score: 2

      You can buy Al powder at any store that sells chemical supplies. It's quite a mess to work with, however, it's dusty and sticks to everything.

      --
      "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
    37. Re:oven by Mr2cents · · Score: 4, Funny

      It was his favourite hard drive, he would have wanted to to take it with him...

      --
      "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
    38. Re:oven by dadman · · Score: 1

      Well put, exactly.

    39. Re:oven by rikkards · · Score: 1

      Interestingly we have a hammer, an 18lb sledge just in case we get invaded and need to dispose of them fast

    40. Re:oven by Spazztastic · · Score: 1

      If you don't want to get into pyrotechnics but you have firearms: A .308 will do the trick.

      --
      Posts not to be taken literally. Almost everything is sarcasm.
    41. Re:oven by Spazztastic · · Score: 1

      That's only if they are ceramic, which few platters are.

      --
      Posts not to be taken literally. Almost everything is sarcasm.
    42. Re:oven by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 3, Informative

      I don't know if they have reduced the MRI magnet strength over the years but when I got one about 10 years ago they told me the strength was 3 Webers. Looking up a quick translate table, 1 Weber = 1 Tesla, so either the old ones were 10x more powerful than the ones today, or you're an order of magnitude off.

      But yeah, letting one go within 20 feet of an MRI would suck it in so quick it might shoot out the other side, or maybe the field would be strong enough to just hold it once it sucked it in.

      For more cool scenes of devastation check out the image where an MRI sucked in a FORKLIFT! No shit, one of those large pallet jacks you use to drive pallets around factories, must weigh 100-150 lbs and it had NO PROBLEM sucking that into the maw of it's magnet, destroying it thoroughly, of course. Image is here: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question698.htm - check it out, if you ever had ANY doubt about the power and strength of an MRI magnet.

      --
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    43. Re:oven by Killjoy_NL · · Score: 1

      I am Killjoy and I agree with the admiral /salute

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    44. Re:oven by samjam · · Score: 1

      While the probability is low, the penalty is proportionately higher; the consequential risk may be identical.

      How will you explain the presence of your disk in the coffin of a murder victim? And how will you feel about the subsequent scrutiny of everything on the disk, and the various and widespread interrogation of everyone referenced on the disk.

    45. Re:oven by MrAngryForNoReason · · Score: 4, Informative

      so you could just walk in (hold drives very tightly), and keep them in the machine for a while.

      Not the best idea as the drives would be ripped out of your hand and fly towards the machine at a high enough velocity to kill anyone in the way. Oh and you would probably destroy the MRI in the process.

      There is a very good reason why you don't take metal anywhere near an MRI machine.

    46. Re:oven by WrecklessSandwich · · Score: 4, Interesting

      If you don't want to get into pyrotechnics but you have firearms: A .308 will do the trick.

      This. My boss at my old IT job used to go out to a firing range with one of the server guys on their lunch break and shoot old drives with a bunch of different guns. It makes a pretty awesome looking exit wound.

    47. Re:oven by guruevi · · Score: 1

      Common clinical MRI's are 1.5-3 Tesla with 3T being more and more common these days, 1.5T is only in cheaper clinics or high-end doctor offices because you can get some Toshiba and GE units second hand for very cheap ($100k), 3T's run about a million and the service contract alone runs at $100k/year. Research MRI and units with very small bores (rodent-size) can go up to 11T.

      It would indeed become a missile but even in 3T, if the magnet is not actively scanning you should be able to get to it within 5 feet (don't try it, I might be off by a couple of feet) if you are strong enough to hold on to it. If it's actively scanning or you come too close, the thing will indeed go fly and hang in the middle of the field, ripping through everything that's in it's way. But even so, I don't think the data structures on the disk would be too much affected if you come within range of still being able to hold it, hard drives are enclosed.

      The mass of the object (the amount of ferro-magnetic material on it) has much more to do with the missile effect than anything. A pallet jack will get sucked in much faster than a pair of glasses (I regularly felt the pull on my own glasses when in the room but then I got titanium ones). But it's dangerous nonetheless, I've seen pictures of vacuum cleaners, scissors, keys, floor buffers and even a technician being pinned against the unit by a cable (didn't kill him but it could've if it were around his neck and it left some nasty bruises)

      --
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    48. Re:oven by LoRdTAW · · Score: 3, Informative

      I do the same thing at work. We have a wet saw for cutting welding samples and it cleanly slices through all kinds of metals without much of a problem. I put the drive on the table and run the blade into the platters about half way. It slices through the drive like a hot knife through butter. That disk will never be read again.

      Another way is to run them over with a forklift as they weigh twice as heavy as their lifting capacity. So a 6000 pound capacity forklift weighs in at around 12000 pounds meaning each tire has a crushing force of about 3000 pounds. Just don't do that on asphalt as your going to leave an imprint of the drive in it or possibly mush the drive into the pavement. I know not everyone has a fork lift but its one way to do it. I got that tip from a UPS driver who informed me that is how he destroys his old disks at work. I tried it and it seems to work very well. You just need a very heavy fork lift.

      Burning a drive doesn't guarantee it will destroy it unless you bring its temperature well over 1000F. And I believe the case of the drive is made from zinc which melts at 787F making it a liquid metal mess. Also, its circuit board will burn causing quite a stink so its one of the least clean methods of destroying a drive.

      And lastly the good ol' hammer works great. Just wear eye protection and your all set for some destructive fun. Just make sure you smash the platters and not just the circuit board. Use a cold chisel or punch to better focus the blow to the platters. Its simple, fast and just about everyone has a hammer lying around. Just do it on a hard surface like pavement or concrete. A kitchen table or counter top will deaden the blow and your almost guaranteed to damage them in the process.

    49. Re:oven by ArcherB · · Score: 1

      They turn it on, the drives get launched by the magnetic field and hit someone in the head, causing permanent brain damage. They then use the drive serial numbers to track them to you and sue you in the gutter.

      Magnetic drill bits don't drill any better than non-magnetic drill bits. What's your point? You still need to drill the platters into small bits before you can be relatively certain no useful information can be retrieved.

      I've been hit in the head several times and I have suffered no dain brammage.

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    50. Re:oven by deains · · Score: 1

      I'm imagining this with the HDDs being used as clay pigeons. I sincerely hope that's close to the truth.

    51. Re:oven by johnsnails · · Score: 1

      Good point, Now I think about it, I actually used the blunt end of a block splitter and it was hd out of an old creative zen which I have no idea what it was made out, of, must have been ceramic as you pointed out!

    52. Re:oven by rjune · · Score: 1

      I'm imagining this with the HDDs being used as clay pigeons. I sincerely hope that's close to the truth.

      I don't think that would be very effective. When you are shooting "trap", the shot is very small as the clay pigeons are very fragile. Off the top of my head, I would say the shot is about the diameter of a Fondue stick. I doubt it would penetrate the case of the hard drive. Stick with the high powered rifles.

    53. Re:oven by Matey-O · · Score: 2

      Harbor Freight Hydraulic Press. The data's hard to retrieve if things aren't flat and spinny anymore. $59 ($48 with 20% off coupon). I dare you to get data off this:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/33743995@N00/6197334169/

      (And at 2 minutes vs. Several Hours, it's faster, too!)

      --
      "Draco dormiens nunquam titillandus."
    54. Re:oven by WatchMaster · · Score: 2

      I've been there. These methods work, and are practical for a reasonably large number of drives:

      1) put them in a fire in your fireplace. Most of the thin aluminum will melt leaving just some metallic debris. 100% destroyed. I've done this, it is simple and very effective.

      2) drill some holes in them with a drill press, so that holes pass through the platters. Theoretically some data could be recovered although it is very unlikely.

    55. Re:oven by mprinkey · · Score: 1

      I think you need more than an oven. I did this last year. This is the way to go. A few pots, some charcoal, and a leaf blower:

      https://picasaweb.google.com/102078715126217612220/MeltingHardDrives

    56. Re:oven by mjpaci · · Score: 1

      LOX + bagel works for hunger. LOX on a HDD? Not effective at wiping data or satisfying hunger.

    57. Re:oven by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 1

      1. The more correct word in English for that condition is "still", not "yet".
      2. That first post is a suggestion.

      --

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    58. Re:oven by RoccamOccam · · Score: 1

      What - you don't shoot clay pigeons with a rifle? How lame!

    59. Re:oven by dougmc · · Score: 1

      Wait for them to turn on the MRI and BAM!!! All your magnetic field are belong to us!!!

      In general, the magnets in a MRI are always on. So really, all you need to do is get close to the device and the drive will be ripped out of your hand and smash onto the MRI, hopefully not damaging the MRI too much, but they may have to quench the superconducting magnets (i.e. this is a big deal) to remove it.

      The drive would probably be erased, however. And if not, it'll probably be smashed to some degree, which isn't a bad thing when you want it destroyed. Hopefully they won't be able to find any fingerprints or camera footage of you doing this to use to send you a bill for the damage to the MRI ...

    60. Re:oven by morgauxo · · Score: 1

      Bad idea. That's usually done in a field somewhere. If you miss then your un-shot hard drive is quite likely lost in tall grass. If you don't find it maybe somebody else will... Besides, clay pigeons degrade to dirt in a year or two. Hard drive pieces might not be so nice to leave lying out in nature like that. Much better... just get some of those little bulls-eye stickers, put 5 on each drive, set them up in front of a bale or something to catch the pieces and shoot away! Afterwards pick up the trash.

    61. Re:oven by uncledrax · · Score: 1

      A palette jack != forklift.
      Also, the palette jacks I've used probably weighed more around 35-60lbs or so . heavy for sure, and your point is still valid, just not as fantastic as you hoped (well it could have been moving 70-100lbs of equipment, that'd give you the 150lb weight)

      That said, I need to get a BB removed from my forehead before I get slammed into an MRI..

      --
      ----- The internet has given everyone the ability to have their voice heard equally as loud.. even if they shouldn't be
    62. Re:oven by LunchTableGoat · · Score: 1

      Back in the day when I was an intern MRI operator, I brought in some HDDs to wipe in a 2 Tesla magnet. There was a strong tug when bringing the HDDs into the strongest portion of the magnetic field but it was by no means so uncontrollable as to rip it from my hands.

      Now, I never actually ran the MRI with the HDD in the bore, so I can't attest to the damage caused by doing that. But I imagine the results would be quite spectacular.

    63. Re:oven by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      The only way to assure a drive is completely unrecoverable is physical destruction. Simple as that.

      It depends how much effort someone is willing to put into getting your old data. If it is just personal stuff then a strong magnet and hammer to the casing is more than adequate. If you have company secrets or something on there then a full format is wise.

      Or best of all just encrypt the whole drive from the start. Disposal is as simple as wiping the key from the drive, then you can sell it on eBay safe in the knowledge that even if you used a weak password now the key it was used with is gone a dictionary attack is impossible. I use encryption by default for that reason.

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    64. Re:oven by FatAlb3rt · · Score: 1

      Same here - after we pass them through the drill press a couple times.

      Though - a more thorough approach would be to remove the platters, then attempt to answer the question: Will It Blend?

    65. Re:oven by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      It is pretty easy to melt hard drive platters with a regular propane brazing torch. Aluminum melts at around 660C and I have done this to a number of drives without problem. If you don't think that propane provides enough heat then you can jump up to MAPP gas as that works with the same torch so all you have to do is change cans.

      --
      Time to offend someone
    66. Re:oven by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      Years ago I used to be a blacksmith, and I still have all my tools. The best way I've found to destroy a hard drive is to give it a wallop or two with my 400-pound power hammer. If there is anyone on the planet who can read data off a drive that is less than a millimetre thick, then they have my congratulations.

      Incidentally, those lanthanide magnets that they use for the arm actuator are great for holding stuff on to my fridge, so I always make a point of taking those out of the drive first.

    67. Re:oven by Matey-O · · Score: 1

      You're kidding, right? With areal densities as high as they are, the odds of a person getting any useful information out of a device are becoming vanishingly small. The devices that have THAT kind of information on them...where the expense of the cleanroom and the million monkeys transcribing the bits are useful, should be encrypted in the first place. At which point nuking the keys will turn them into noise.

      --
      "Draco dormiens nunquam titillandus."
    68. Re:oven by TWX · · Score: 2

      I actually use a hammer most of the time. Take the drive, put it at a 45 angle leaning against a parking curb, then star wacking it with a small sledge. Creasing the platters is really all it takes to render them unreadable.

      If you're really bored, or really paranoid, go buy yourself a 20ton shop press and smash them with that. They're around $300 for a cheap one that will work well enough.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    69. Re:oven by nschubach · · Score: 1

      I wouldn't be concerned with the heat as much as I would about the fumes of the seals, lubricants and other things boiling off.

      --
      Every time I start to have faith in humanity, I ruin it by driving to work between 7 and 8 am.
    70. Re:oven by silas_moeckel · · Score: 1

      Sledgehammer works wonders, when the platters are broken down into large sand grains I would call that unrecoverable. Replace sledgehammer with whatever you have around that's fairly solid. I know an IT guy who is also a gun guy he uses them for target pratice at his gun club.

      --
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    71. Re:oven by Toze · · Score: 1

      practical != fun

      --
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    72. Re:oven by idontgno · · Score: 1

      What we did was to open the drives, remove each platter, sand each platter clean down to the aluminum (catching the dust and incinerating it along with the used emery cloth and the on-board controller electronics), and then folding the platters over and hammering them flat... twice.

      It took a long time, but apparently the time of junior enlisted personnel is zero-value. Oh, well, I felt confident no commie spy would be recovering any of THAT data.

      --
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    73. Re:oven by blakelarson · · Score: 1

      Typical MRI scanner is 1.5 Tesla, although 3 Tesla is becoming more common all the time...

    74. Re:oven by wwphx · · Score: 1

      Aren't MRI fields constant? Just going in to proximity of the machine would rip the drives out of your hands and glue them to the machine. It takes hours, if not days, for them to fully spin up or shut down the magnetic field.

      --
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    75. Re:oven by snowraver1 · · Score: 1

      I'd bet you could blow up a HDD with a Bagel soaked in LOX

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    76. Re:oven by solidraven · · Score: 1

      I simply use an arc welder. Sending bursts of about 100A through the platters usually does the job quite well (it tends to screw up the magnetic fields big time). What would also be worth exploring is exposing them to a MRI.

    77. Re:oven by Zeinfeld · · Score: 1

      That is not an approved disposal scheme in the US DoD. Explosives can and do leave pieces large enough to recover information from.

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    78. Re:oven by Spazztastic · · Score: 1

      Biodegradable clay pigeons are usually gone after a good heavy rainstorm.

      --
      Posts not to be taken literally. Almost everything is sarcasm.
    79. Re:oven by HermMunster · · Score: 1

      With current drive technology the circuit board must match precisely--to the model and batch. You were probably lucky that he had one from your batch. Recovery houses do the same thing, they have a collection of circuit boards that they use to attempt to access. The data is encoded in the drives with parameters set by the circuit boards, alignment of certain data on the drive must match the info in the circuit boards and the info varies from model to model and batch to batch. You should look up how recovery houses recover data--their techniques. Much is well documented, including the pitfalls. And if he has a mass produced consumer drive you could find a replacement more readily. But the average person trying to get at the data wouldn't know that. They'd encounter a drive without a circuit board and give up.

      You are not the average person. Only a complete destruction will keep an expert from gaining access if they so desire. So technically he has only one choice if he wants to protect himself--physical destruction.

      --
      You can lead a man with reason but you can't make him think.
    80. Re:oven by dgatwood · · Score: 1

      Yeah, but you can carry a butane lighter on a plane and nuke the contents of the platters in the lavatory. I don't recommend trying that with thermite.... No, wait....

      *mutters something about getting tackled and thrown off a plane for trying to light a hard drive platter*

      Frigging post-9/11 paranoia. Spoils all the fun of erasing a hard drive.

      Actually, now that I think about it, nuking the platters would probably do the trick, too. Microwave ovens FTW.

      On a scale of 1 to 10, this post has been rated 12 by the Internet Sarcasm Meter.

      --

      Check out my sci-fi/humor trilogy at PatriotsBooks.

    81. Re:oven by HermMunster · · Score: 1

      Yes, some older ide drives are like that, especially since the are so old--probably was a drive engineered long before the current technology was developed.

      It doesn't mean most ppl will know any of this. And you had the old card to compare with. For someone without access to the old board they'd be lost as to which card from which batch they needed.

      If he could kill the motor that too would suffice as you can't replace it. He could just open the drive by removing a couple screws and pour some corrosive fluid on it and let them sit for a while. There are far better and simpler ways than shredding the drive or finding an expensive degausser, especially since they are unreliable at best.

      --
      You can lead a man with reason but you can't make him think.
    82. Re:oven by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      The proper tool for this job is a 12 gauge shotgun. It's cheaper per destructive unit vs. a .308 cartridge, and your cost is about $1 a drive - maybe a little more, if you're a bad shot.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    83. Re:oven by IorDMUX · · Score: 1

      I had a friend who's drive was killed in a lightning strike. A friend of theirs swapped out the control board for another one. It physically fit, but released its magic smoke after just a few seconds.

      Yeah. I missed "'s drive" the first time I read this comment. It seemed to be a very strange story.

      --
      >> Standing on head makes smile of frown, but rest of face also upside down.
    84. Re:oven by oven · · Score: 1

      Even though I'm hot, I don't think that's reliable :)

      I'd try to open the drives and scratch away the surface. Having the power attached makes it quicker and more fun :)

    85. Re:oven by kheldan · · Score: 1

      The rare-earth magnets used for the head actuator in the HDD you're disassembling/destroying are incredibly strong. Rub them on the surface of the platters directly, and you're sure to completely corrupt the contents.

      --
      Are YOU using the TOOL, or is the TOOL using YOU? Think about it!
    86. Re:oven by Oxford_Comma_Lover · · Score: 1

      Does it need to be 1500 degrees? A little less than that is easily achievable inside a modern wood stove.

      --
      -- IANAL, this isn't legal advice, and definitely isn't legal advice for you. Also, Squee!
    87. Re:oven by blue_teeth · · Score: 1

      Actually I was thinking of a 20 metric ton vibratory road roller. Just find the guy, he'd love roll his machine over your stuff. Smoke a cigarette with him...perhaps you will learn something about real life.

      Cheers

    88. Re:oven by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 1

      I know, but FORKLIFT sounded so more dramatic :) and actually, it does have forks and lifts things. As far as weight goes, maybe the ones at Home Depot might weigh 60 lbs but the really heavy duty ones I've seen weigh well over 100 lbs. and the one in the picture was loaded too. That's not to mention the electric ones, just the batteries in them probably weigh as much as a regular jack.

      --
      -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
    89. Re:oven by RatherBeAnonymous · · Score: 1

      But not as much fun....

    90. Re:oven by RatherBeAnonymous · · Score: 1

      I agree. I have done this trick several times to recover data at work. Usually we have a second identical drive on premises, and sometimes I have to use Ebay.

    91. Re:oven by Wyatt+Earp · · Score: 1

      There are 3 and 4 Tesla MRIs out there at hospitals and clinics now. I've been scanned in 3 Tesla MRIs in Portland Oregon and I know OHSU has a 12 Tesla MRI for diagnostic work.

    92. Re:oven by Thaelon · · Score: 1

      This is what I was going to suggest. But before anyone actually tries this, I recommend watching a few thermite videos on youtube so you know what you're dealing with before you try it. That shit throws mad sparks and produces molten metal that whatever it is sitting on will have to deal with.

      --

      Question everything

    93. Re:oven by publiclurker · · Score: 1

      Do they allow you to view porn in heaven?

    94. Re:oven by xanadu113 · · Score: 1

      Thermite..?

      --
      -Myke
    95. Re:oven by Tolkien · · Score: 1

      American tax dollars at work.

    96. Re:oven by Lorens · · Score: 1

      What would also be worth exploring is exposing them to a MRI.

      Does "Worth" imply that you are prepared to pay for the damage to the MRI machine?

      FWIW, my method would be to take the things apart, smash the platters with a hammer (inside a bag to avoid splinters), and that's it. Maybe OP wants to avoid the NSA reading his disks, but somehow I doubt that anyone is going to come along with an electron microscope to analyze the pieces.

    97. Re:oven by BenVis · · Score: 1

      ... How's this for an idea... Take it to your nearest hospital. Sneak into the room where they keep the MRI, and leave the hard drives in the bottom. Wait for them to turn on the MRI and BAM!!! ...

      You were obviously making a funny, but here's some serious information: The static magnetic field in an MRI is always on. Turning off the static magnetic field is a potentially dangerous and always a time-consuming and expensive proposition. You'd get to a few feet from the magnet bore and all the drives would be yanked to the center of the magnet. That would be bad for you if you had them in, for example, a backpack.

      Check out some of the photos and the video at Flying Objects

      --
      "Preceded by itself yields falsehood" preceded by itself yields falsehood.
    98. Re:oven by excitedidiot · · Score: 1

      Any decent data recovery company can read the data with just the platters.

    99. Re:oven by excitedidiot · · Score: 1

      Could you share this source for replacement boards?

    100. Re:oven by swalve · · Score: 1

      Hard drives are made of aluminum.

    101. Re:oven by dhasenan · · Score: 1

      Nice thing about cremation: the bits that don't get fully incinerated get put in a heavy-duty rock tumbler type thing to get pulverized.

    102. Re:oven by cthulhu11 · · Score: 1

      You have barium peroxide just laying around?

    103. Re:oven by SCPRedMage · · Score: 1

      Explosives can and do leave pieces large enough to recover information from.

      Not with how over-kill these guys went. Five full layers of C4, sandwiching three layers of drives, with a shaped charge pointing at the pile.

      At the blast site, there was nothing left but a crater, without a trace of any remaining metal AT ALL, nor was there anything spotted anywhere in the vicinity, nor was any debris spotted flying any meaningful distance from the site.

      The drives were completely incinerated. End of story.

      --
      My sig can beat up your sig.
    104. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          eBay. :)

        The guy I talked to was "Kevin". His site is: http://site.onepcbsolution.com/

          His partner site was "HDD-parts", which appears to be http://www.hdd-parts.com/ .

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    105. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          There are a couple videos on YouTube that I found interesting. Searching for "Thermite Turkey" was particularly nice. The other was something like "Thermite Volcano". I strongly recommend an ignition system that puts a good distance between the person and the reaction. A magnesium fuse is a very good idea. Direct ignition with a torch, not so good, unless you're wearing your asbestos underwear. :)

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    106. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

        You don't need it. Powdered aluminum and powdered iron oxide will do fine. You should be able to find those easily.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    107. Re:oven by cthulhu11 · · Score: 1

      I was taught that the barium peroxide was needed to kickstart the main reaction, with an Mg strip as a fuse.

    108. Re:oven by sFurbo · · Score: 1

      Yes, but the magnetic patterns on the platters are incredibly resilient. I wouldn't be too sure that the magnets are strong enough to corrupt it. They might be, but I would like to see it tested before I rely on it.

    109. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          From everything I've seen, you'll do fine with a magnesium strip to start it. If you don't have a pure magnesium strip, those fireworks "sparklers" will do. You can also do a direct ignition with a torch, but run the risk of heating the entire mixture, causing an explosion rather than just igniting it. All of which is why I suggest, if you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. :)

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    110. Re:oven by kheldan · · Score: 1

      *shrug* then take a hammer, or hacksaw, or tin-snips, or just your own two strong hands to the platters and physically destroy them. My whole point is that it doesn't take rocket science to destroy these, just a little common sense. Need another method? Get a common propane torch and heat them up. Should destroy the coating in short order. How about a piece of nice 80-grit sandpaper? Use your imagination!

      --
      Are YOU using the TOOL, or is the TOOL using YOU? Think about it!
    111. Re:oven by crafty.munchkin · · Score: 1
      Glad you got it, shame about the 25 others who didn't get my joke. /. truly does need a humour tag.

      Epic Kudos to LunchTableGoat for actually doing it too, despite what those naysayers have said!

      --
      ... wait, what?
    112. Re:oven by Gr8Apes · · Score: 1

      Open drive, remove platters, place platter on an open vise, place chisel in middle, hit with hammer. Repeat.

      At this point, only the most dedicated folks will even try to get data off of the platters, if you want to be sure, break them into multiple pieces and dispose of separately, or, get a large fresnel lens and create yourself a nice solar powered smelter. Molten platters won't tell anyone anything, other than you went out of your way to destroy something.

      --
      The cesspool just got a check and balance.
    113. Re:oven by respawnd · · Score: 1

      These guys had the right idea. Who said you need an oven? http://eecue.com/c/driveslag

    114. Re:oven by solidraven · · Score: 1

      Actually, if you keep enough of a distance and keep the hard drive platters in a wooden box they should still be erased without the danger of projectiles.

    115. Re:oven by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

      Molten platters won't tell anyone anything, other than you went out of your way to destroy something.

      You don't know me very well, do you? :)

          Virtually anything, in various stages of disassembly or destruction (or reconstruction) is perfectly normal. And heck, I've been slowly collecting materials for trying my hand at casting metals. Molten lump of metal? Was it a hard drive, or an old car part? Who knows.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  2. Thermite? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    How about thermite?

    1. Re:Thermite? by ravenshrike · · Score: 1

      This, if you want to destroy something you can move or you don't mind ruining the surroundings of, thermite is the only answer.

    2. Re:Thermite? by Z00L00K · · Score: 1

      Colt .45.

      Commercial way is to use a shredder.

      Or use a screwdriver, remove platters, process them with sandpaper. But if you have easy access to a cement factory then you can probably ask them if you can dump some sensitive stuff into that kiln. A 1300 to 1400 degree (C) environment in a rotating kiln is highly likely to wipe your data. (can also be used to wipe other evidence)

      Then the question is the reasoning behind the need to go beyond a simple single overwrite of the data. Only a few cases validates the need to go any further - like top secret data that can cause great harm to your home nation or incriminating evidence that needs to be hidden from the authorities.

      Most other types of data aren't worth the effort to recover after a single overwrite, even medical records. Unless you have an extremely evil Ex.

      And for anyone involved with extremely sensitive data there are already procedures defined for destruction.

      --
      If builders built buildings the way programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker would destroy civilization.
    3. Re:Thermite? by flapped · · Score: 1

      Common sense detected. Your comment will be removed in the next 48 hours.

    4. Re:Thermite? by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Actually, there are a whole bunch of industries that have to destroy hard drives appropriately. Anything with names, address, DOB, SSN, CC#, etc... If an old drive that you let out of your custody is found, and even a small bit of data is recovered, that comes down on you like a ton of bricks. Well, a ton of lawsuits.

          You are correct though, we have our procedures specifically outlined. There's no question, check with the boss. There should be a formal written policy on it somewhere. If not, you aren't handling sensitive information, and/or you aren't in compliance.

          I wrote our book. It's only 107 pages. Of course, I am the IT boss.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    5. Re:Thermite? by rpresser · · Score: 1

      Original poster mentioned he does not have IDE hardware anymore, so a normal data overwrite is not an option. At least not a preferred option.

    6. Re:Thermite? by _0xd0ad · · Score: 1

      Colt .45.

      Bonus points if you hack up a battery-powered power supply to spin up the drive before you use it for target practice.

  3. Shotgun by bhenson · · Score: 1

    Shotgun or rifle its fun and educational

    1. Re:Shotgun by JimXugle · · Score: 1

      Spraypaint them orange first. PULL!

      --
      -jX

      Don't you just love politics? It's like a comedy of errors.
    2. Re:Shotgun by Billly+Gates · · Score: 1

      Just drop them off the roof from work. Very cheap

    3. Re:Shotgun by ackthpt · · Score: 1

      Just drop them off the roof from work. Very cheap

      Slam them hard on a concrete surface a few times. Should do the trick.

      --

      A feeling of having made the same mistake before: Deja Foobar
    4. Re:Shotgun by Z00L00K · · Score: 1

      Data on the platters will still be recoverable by professional firms.

      --
      If builders built buildings the way programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker would destroy civilization.
    5. Re:Shotgun by lennier1 · · Score: 1

      If they can restore data from glass platters which have been shattered into a million pieces after dropping the drive from the 12th floor they're more than worth their money.

    6. Re:Shotgun by betterunixthanunix · · Score: 1

      +1, just make sure you check the range policies (or that nobody catches you) or that you do it on your own property (if legal).

      --
      Palm trees and 8
    7. Re:Shotgun by fishnuts · · Score: 1

      They're not glass. They're usually highly polished aluminum alloy or ceramic plates deposited with the magnetic material. The ceramic platters still wont shatter unless they experience over 1000G of shock.

    8. Re:Shotgun by nomorecwrd · · Score: 1

      Excuse my ignorance. But, on what grounds, shooting is considered educational?

    9. Re:Shotgun by dougmc · · Score: 1

      ... assuming they're glass platters. They aren't all, after all.

    10. Re:Shotgun by gorzek · · Score: 1

      Heh, of course that would've happened to an IBM DeathStar... err... DeskStar.

    11. Re:Shotgun by Tsingi · · Score: 1

      I've never seen, or even heard of, glass platters in my life.

    12. Re:Shotgun by gknoy · · Score: 1

      on what grounds, shooting is considered educational?

      Let's see. I don't shoot guns, but wouldn't mind doing so. Here's how I might consider it educational. Most of these things apply to archery (which I enjoy) as well:

      Mental discipline. (Patience, handling misses)
      Improve eye-hand coordination.
      Improve control over body mechanics (breathing, stillness).
      Practice distance estimation.
      Improve muscle memory.

      All of this is in addition to the practical aspect of having practice putting rounds down range. Ballistic exercises are something where, while there's a lot to learn from a book, you will have a hard time getting better at unless you DO it. Moreover, it's a good practical application of the discipline of waiting for others (range is clear, etc) and being courteous.

      I'd totally consider a range trip with my kid(s) to be both educational and fun.

  4. Drill by HeLLFiRe1151 · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Drill Baby Drill

    --
    I've got 101 mod points and you can't have them!
    1. Re:Drill by marcushnk · · Score: 2

      Yeah, Drill and then after you've drilled it power it up and make the platter spin up and scratch the living fuck out of what wasn't drilled.

      --
      "Consider how lucky you are that life has been good to you so far. Alternatively, if life hasn't been good to you so far
    2. Re:Drill by multisync · · Score: 2

      Sledge hammer works well too. Hit it until it rattles like a maraca.

      --
      I don't care why you're posting AC
    3. Re:Drill by Just+Some+Guy · · Score: 1

      Well, yeah! Unless you have major governments looking over your shoulder, the physical damage from a drill (both in the form of holes and the warping and cracking of the glass platters) will take care of almost any attacker. The equipment needed to pull data off a drilled drive would cost way more than a petty thief could earn from swiping your credit card information off it.

      --
      Dewey, what part of this looks like authorities should be involved?
    4. Re:Drill by L4t3r4lu5 · · Score: 1

      To make any hard drive unreadable to anyone outside of No Such Acronym-style agencies, flip the disk over and pull off the controller board. Snap it in half.

      Congratulations. You've just spent 20 seconds rendering the drive unusable to anyone without access to the components of the exact same model hard drive you have, right down to the fabrication run (different runs can use different components, making the controller board useless for other runs). It's faster than software solutions e.g. dd, DBAN etc and safer / less work / more cost effective than physical destruction e.g. chipping, punching, melting etc. The cost of sourcing parts and repairing / reproducing the board will almost certainly exceed the budget of all but your most direct competitors, or the government. If they worry you, dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/hd0 for working media, take an orbital sander to the platters of non-working disks (face shield and filtered air supply mandatory).

      --
      Finally had enough. Come see us over at https://soylentnews.org/
    5. Re:Drill by daha · · Score: 1

      Drill Baby Drill

      Simple, yet effective.

    6. Re:Drill by X0563511 · · Score: 1

      .45? Pussy. /me fondles his .30 rifle...

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
    7. Re:Drill by GritsConQueso · · Score: 1

      I hit the platters with the pointy end of a 5 lb. pick axe. It's good exercise and, beyond that, anyone who successfully recovers any data from the warped platters deserves to have it.

    8. Re:Drill by bell.colin · · Score: 1

      Hammer-drill on high with a 1"dia. bit can go through 4 SCSI drives in 30-40secs.

  5. How I've done it in the past... by omglolbah · · Score: 2

    * Drill a hole, pour in acid.
    ** Pro: Fast, cheap
    ** Con: Requires you to have access to an acid

    * Drill a hole, pour in resin.
    ** Pro: Fast
    ** Con: Not so cheap due to the cost of the resin.. Unless you swipe it at work :p

    * Explosives
    ** Pro: Fast, extremely effective and damn fun!
    ** Con: Most of the time illegal.... *cough*

    1. Re:How I've done it in the past... by danbuter · · Score: 5, Informative

      You can buy muriatic acid in just about any hardware store. It's basically hydrochloric acid.

    2. Re:How I've done it in the past... by pookemon · · Score: 5, Funny

      Basically, or is that acidically...

      --
      dnuof eruc rof aixelsid
    3. Re:How I've done it in the past... by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 1

      I've never owned a pool, but I believe they use it for titration, that is to adjust the pH balance so the water is not too acidic nor basic.

      --
      -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
    4. Re:How I've done it in the past... by godel_56 · · Score: 1

      * Drill a hole, pour in acid. ** Pro: Fast, cheap ** Con: Requires you to have access to an acid

      Probably even just vinegar or brine or a little battery acid poured in would do the trick. I'd expect the surface would be quickly corroded

    5. Re:How I've done it in the past... by dbIII · · Score: 2

      Which acid? HF to attack the glass (if you are insane enough to fool about with HF if you don't have to) or something else to attack the oxide coating?
      I've seen hot citric acid used on an industrial scale to clean magnetite out of boiler tubes but dilute nitric didn't seem to do anything to the magnetite on samples taken out of boiiler tubes for analysis. Would phosphoric acid work?

    6. Re:How I've done it in the past... by dbIII · · Score: 1

      Except the surface is already an oxide so you'll need something that can attack that.

    7. Re:How I've done it in the past... by slacker22 · · Score: 1

      Just stick the HF acid in your bathtub...what could possibly go wrong?!

    8. Re:How I've done it in the past... by Sockatume · · Score: 1

      It's literally hydrochloric acid.

      --
      No kidding!!! What do you say at this point?
    9. Re:How I've done it in the past... by Fnord666 · · Score: 1

      Just stick the HF acid in your bathtub...what could possibly go wrong?!

      Someone's been watching "Breaking Bad" reruns I see.

      --
      'The tyrant will always find pretext for his tyranny.' - Aesop's Fables
    10. Re:How I've done it in the past... by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      Usually you have to ask for it as a lot of them don't keep it out on the shelves any more. Sometimes they ask what you are doing so just tell them you are cleaning concrete or using it to balance the ph in you pool as these are the 2 most common uses.

      --
      Time to offend someone
    11. Re:How I've done it in the past... by flappinbooger · · Score: 1

      *.30-06, 7.62, 5.56, .223, .308
      ** Pro: Fast, cheap, fun, effective.
      ** Con: requires you have guns and a place to shoot the drive and make a mess

      --
      Flappinbooger isn't my real name
    12. Re:How I've done it in the past... by AstroMatt · · Score: 1

      You can haz your acids, but all your base are belong to us!

    13. Re:How I've done it in the past... by KingBenny · · Score: 1
      --
      Free speech was meant to be free for all... how can anyone grow up in a nanny state ?
    14. Re:How I've done it in the past... by mokumegane · · Score: 1

      There's also many janitorial cleaners that have acid in them. I remember when I owned a janitorial business, there was this one toilet bowl cleaner we had. This was our last-ditch effort to clean a toilet. Basically, if it wasn't coming clean for anything else, we used it. The top two ingredients were hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid. The warning on the bottle told you not to put it in a metal container, due to risk of explosion. What the cleaner basically did was etch off a few layers of porcelain from the toilet. Any stain on said porcelain was gone, with the porcelain. Anyone can walk into a janitorial supply place... they typically sell to both businesses and the public (heck especially nowadays, with the way the economy has gone). Just another suggestion of where to get acid, is all... Make sure to read the warnings on the label of whatever you choose... I'm sure they've done the idiot tests so you don't have to.

    15. Re:How I've done it in the past... by black+soap · · Score: 1

      So what you are saying is, it is a lot like hydrochloric acid?

  6. Thermite by Kenja · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Exothermic oxidation-reduction makes drives dead.

    --

    "Have you ever thought about just turning off the TV, sitting down with your kids, and hitting them?"
    1. Re:Thermite by thatskinnyguy · · Score: 1

      Thermite?

      --
      The game.
    2. Re:Thermite by a_hanso · · Score: 1

      Are we trying to dispose of a CyberDyne Systems HDD?

    3. Re:Thermite by troon · · Score: 1

      So 90% would still be left?

      --
      Ydco co ,df C erb-y go. a Ekrpat t.fxrapev
    4. Re:Thermite by jacquems · · Score: 1

      Thermite is my husband's hypothetical tool of choice for hard drive destruction. He's never tested it out in practice though. I'd be very interested to hear how it worked if you've tried it yourself.

    5. Re:Thermite by Jeng · · Score: 1

      They don't just sell the ingredients, they sell straight thermite.

      --
      Don't know something? Look it up. Still don't know? Then ask.
    6. Re:Thermite by Kenja · · Score: 1

      Works really good (or is that very well?). Just mix some aluminum powder and iron oxide in the correct ratio. Make sure you have something like a brick fire pit to burn in. Use a section of duct pipe to form a cylinder with the drive at the bottom and some thermite on top. Ignite using a model rocket kit, being sure to stand WELL AWAY from the resulting infermo. Should totally slag the drive and the high heat will demagnetize the platers.

      --

      "Have you ever thought about just turning off the TV, sitting down with your kids, and hitting them?"
  7. Will it blend? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Subject says it all.

    1. Re:Will it blend? by rpresser · · Score: 1

      Not cheap.

  8. Buy a drill by dloyer · · Score: 1

    Works great. 3-4 holes drilled through the drive will make it impractical to recover.

    Make sure you clean up the shavings. A shop vac is fine.

  9. A 20oz framing hammer? by NoNonAlphaCharsHere · · Score: 5, Funny

    Remember: when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a skull.

    1. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by NicknamesAreStupid · · Score: 1

      What's with all these puny hammer suggestions? Take a ten pound sledge to them and pound them flat. It is crudely effective and cathartic, too.

    2. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by rvw · · Score: 1

      Remember: when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a skull.

      You hit the nail right on the head!

    3. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by Fnord666 · · Score: 1

      What's with all these puny hammer suggestions? Take a ten pound sledge to them and pound them flat. It is crudely effective and cathartic, too.

      I prefer a splitting maul. It does a wonderful job and it does have a nice cathartic effect.

      --
      'The tyrant will always find pretext for his tyranny.' - Aesop's Fables
    4. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by X0563511 · · Score: 1

      I think I have a new sig...

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
    5. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by painandgreed · · Score: 1

      When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a hippy.

    6. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by cbiltcliffe · · Score: 1

      I was thinking Maxwell Edison, myself....

      --
      "City hall" in German is "Rathaus" Kinda explains a few things......
    7. Re:A 20oz framing hammer? by z917183 · · Score: 1

      Hammer? Skull? Your name is not Maxwell, is it?

  10. Take it apart of break it by Psychofreak · · Score: 3, Informative

    nail gun
    hammer, bigger may be better
    screwdriver, there are cool, powerful magnets inside and the aluminum chassis is recyclable for cash
    steel wool on the platter once taken apart (not really important by that time)
    Firearms, play safe

    Phil

    --
    Laugh, it's good for you!
    1. Re:Take it apart of break it by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

      A standard screwdriver won't do it. You need a torx set, usually T6 or T8, and some use the security pin. It's not hard to find in a bit set online. Alternatively, you can just drill the screws.

    2. Re:Take it apart of break it by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      Most of those screws aren't high tensile screws so even if you only have a slotted screw driver you can still just brute force and ignorance it open. Granted a proper set of warranty voiding screw bits is faster, but you don't need them.

      --
      Time to offend someone
    3. Re:Take it apart of break it by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

      Are you saying just strip the screws and pry it open?

    4. Re:Take it apart of break it by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      More like just pry it open the screws will break pretty easily.

      --
      Time to offend someone
    5. Re:Take it apart of break it by md65536 · · Score: 1

      Granted a proper set of warranty voiding screw bits is faster, but you don't need them.

      I assume that OP would prefer to use a method that wouldn't void the warranty.

  11. Unscrew them, separate components, dispose by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I did it today to one. Unscrew them, take the plates, throw them in different recycling bins/garbage cans/whatever. If you're concerned about someone snooping in your garbage, drop one off at a different gas station every morning. Plus you get some neat looking polished Al/Ni discs out of it if you don't feel like throwing them away...12 year old drive's guts were shinier than a bathroom mirror today

    1. Re:Unscrew them, separate components, dispose by Z00L00K · · Score: 1

      Or you can use the platters as target for skeet shooting. They will be re-usable instead of those clay "pigeons".

      But make sure that the landing area is clear - the platters can be great ninja stars!

      --
      If builders built buildings the way programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker would destroy civilization.
    2. Re:Unscrew them, separate components, dispose by UncHellMatt · · Score: 1

      I just remove the tops then take the hammer to them. Brilliantly cathartic, let me tell you.

    3. Re:Unscrew them, separate components, dispose by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      You must be a pretty bad shot if you can reuse them, or are you using like a #9 dove load?

      --
      Time to offend someone
  12. Screwdriver by crucifiction · · Score: 1

    I always take them apart and scratch the plates, ala CD destruction. Mostly it is fun to hard drives apart and marvel at their insides, smashing/scratching them is icing on the cake.

    1. Re:Screwdriver by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

      I always take them apart for the free magnets inside.

    2. Re:Screwdriver by rasherbuyer · · Score: 1

      Yeah the magnets are awesome :)

    3. Re:Screwdriver by Christopher_G_Lewis · · Score: 1

      Excellent Grill Cover Holderrs...

    4. Re:Screwdriver by wwphx · · Score: 1

      I really liked the Photonic Inductions video of erasing a CD using extreme high voltage, I always wondered if the same technique would apply to hard drive platters

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi_bMYFmFGg&feature=player_embedded

      --
      When you sympathize with stupidity, you start thinking like an idiot.
  13. Hamer and punch by plover · · Score: 5, Informative

    If you're looking for fast production-line destruction, take a three pound hammer and punch. A punch driven through the aluminum plate covering the platter section, midway between the center spindle and the edge of the drive, down to the bottom of the case through the platters, will effectively destroy the disks. It will cheaply render the data unreadable to anyone who doesn't want to invest ten thousand dollars investigating the remains of the disks. You can crank through many disks per hour. A 3/8" bit in an electric drill would be similarly effective, and less labor intensive than a hammer, but slower.

    Leaving the aluminum plate covering on the drive has the added advantage of containing the shards if the disk platters are made of glass. Even so, I'd wear leather gloves and use eye protection if I were physically destroying them this way.

    But with 15 drives, it's just not that big of a job. Why make a big mess? Disassemble them. It takes about 10 minutes per drive, and it's both educational and fun. You can probably do it watching TV on the couch.

    A miniature Torx driver set (T6-T9, available from Sears), a flat bladed screwdriver, a #2 Philips screwdriver, and a pocket knife is all I need to take most drives apart down to their components. Recover the voice coil driver magnets, they're always useful. Remove the circuit boards and recycle them as they were probably soldered with lead. Remove the platters from the spindles. To truly be rid of the data, you'll have to basically destroy the platters in a very hot fire. Heating them past their Curie point will completely destroy the data, leaving them totally unrecoverable; but that may require heat as high as 1500 degrees F. You won't get that on a stovetop.

    --
    John
    1. Re:Hamer and punch by crabboy.com · · Score: 1

      You won't get that on a stovetop.

      You haven't seen my stovetop!

      --
      The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money
    2. Re:Hamer and punch by pruss · · Score: 1

      On some drives, I've seen sticker-covered holes in the aluminum plate leading to the platters. You can easily punch or drill through the sticker. I assume that's what the holes are.

    3. Re:Hamer and punch by smallfries · · Score: 1

      To truly be rid of the data, you'll have to basically destroy the platters in a very hot fire.

      Return them to the furnace from whence they came? You'll need a fellowship to guide you in your journey, and spring the extra for eagles to carry you home.

      --
      Slashdot: where don knuth is an idiot because he cant grasp the awesome power of php
    4. Re:Hamer and punch by mea_culpa · · Score: 2

      Be careful with some of the components if you are letting children have them or play with them.
      Some drive platters are glass instead of aluminum and it is very difficult to know the difference from handling them. My daughter dropped one on the floor and it shattered into very dangerous shards. I was shocked as I believed they were all aluminum. I think most IBM/Hitachi Deskstar drives are glass but there could be others.
      She really loves the rare earth magnets but learned real quick that the can pinch very easily. Also these are powerful enough to permanently destroy CRT based TVs if you still have them around. No amount of degaussing brought a Sony Wega back to normal.

    5. Re:Hamer and punch by atisss · · Score: 1

      Degauss using an old transformer.. did work 10 years ago

    6. Re:Hamer and punch by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      I love those rare earth magnets and recycle them into automotive usages in the transmission and oil pans of vehicles, as well as using them as fridge magnets. The platters get taken up north and used as targets and when sufficiently full of holes (lots of pop cans suffer this same fate) recycled with the aluminum cases. The circuit boards go off to the Dakota county hazardous waste disposal site.

      --
      Time to offend someone
    7. Re:Hamer and punch by mikael · · Score: 1

      I've take some modern 2.5" hard disk drives apart. The stickers are there to cover up the locking screws to the clamshell case. There is a hole in the casing to allow for some air flow in and out of the drive to compensate for changes in atmospheric pressure and heat. Though there is a filter on the inside to catch all the dust. Also, the top and bottom platters of the drive aren't used. Data is stored on the inside platters only.

      Early 3.5" PC hard disk drives stored the disk drive format (tracks/sectors/platters) information in the BIOS. So if those type of disk drives have been removed from the PC, it's going to be hard to get any sort of external USB enclosure to work with them as it won't know the data format. Later disk drives stored this information in the firmware.

      I've got two hard disk drives of the earlier type - backed up the data, and wiped the data files. Just deleted the file system and rewrote junk files into the top level directory until the disk was full. Won't work with external USB cases - both of them just make ticking or grinding noises.

      --
      Vintage computer adverts: http://www.vintageadbrowser.com/computers-and-software-ads
    8. Re:Hamer and punch by plover · · Score: 1

      I remove the magnets from their steel keepers. Most are glued on with an adhesive designed only to keep them in place, not to hold them together. By using a pocket knife or utility razor as a wedge, and a plastic screwdriver handle as a light hammer, most magnets can easily be removed with little or no damage.

      But it turned out to be dangerous in two ways, the lesser of which was hammering a sharpened knife blade. I stacked the harvested raw magnets into two-inch-thick stacks (perhaps a dozen magnets each.) Each stack then has an extremely powerful field, the kind that is almost impossible to pull straight apart with ordinary muscle strength. Having two large stacks separated by a surprisingly large distance (a foot apart on the workbench top) is not always enough, and if they overcome the friction of the surface the stacks can slam together with both high force and high velocity. They will crush flesh and bone.

      --
      John
    9. Re:Hamer and punch by plover · · Score: 1

      As I said further below, most old drives are not worth salvaging. Sure, modern drives are more energy efficient, faster, have higher storage capacities, but those are attributes that don't matter to a lot of still-useful applications. The problem with old hard drives is that the mechanisms are worn. They have a finite lifetime. A large number of inexpensive hard drives won't last more than four years or so. Do you really want to go to the work of salvaging, erasing, and installing an old drive in a new box, just to have that drive fail in the next three or six months?

      --
      John
    10. Re:Hamer and punch by Richard_J_N · · Score: 1

      Once you're down to the platters only, you can probably simply keep them in a filing cabinet. But folding the platter in half is a pretty good way to make it unreadable - at least without someone spending stupidly large amounts of money [if they care enough about your data!]. If you want to physically destroy them, it's probably cheaper to use a chemical means than thermal means.
      Finally, a single pass with "dd if=/dev/zero" is generally sufficient.

  14. Only one way to be sure. by WiglyWorm · · Score: 4, Interesting
    1. Re:Only one way to be sure. by omglolbah · · Score: 1

      I approve.... wholeheartedly!

    2. Re:Only one way to be sure. by iamhassi · · Score: 2

      Drive slagging. http://eecue.com/c/driveslag

      ^----- this. When all that's left is a pile of melted aluminum there is nothing to recover. Even with a hole in the drive or a shredded drive there's still intact pieces, if you really want to do it right you have to melt it down to just aluminum.

      --
      my karma will be here long after I'm gone
    3. Re:Only one way to be sure. by MikShapi · · Score: 1

      I'd be concerned about high-temperature cooking of electronics under back yard conditions.
      Too many minute-quantity rare/hazardous materials go into their making.

      Cook them, make them airborne, and you risk getting cancer for free.

      --
      -
    4. Re:Only one way to be sure. by chromas · · Score: 1

      We don't pay for music or porn so why should we pay for cancer?

    5. Re:Only one way to be sure. by mabhatter654 · · Score: 1

      Work at a steel mill!

      we have various items to get steel to the molten state... Something should do the trick!

    6. Re:Only one way to be sure. by Robadob · · Score: 1

      But we just love the pretty coloured smoke (and the sound popping capacitors make).

    7. Re:Only one way to be sure. by Vicarius · · Score: 1

      I recently melted by accident some aluminum cookware on a campfire. You don't really have to go all high-tech to get temperature high enough to melt aluminum.

  15. Use your drill by jtwronski · · Score: 1

    1/4" bit, drill 3 or 4 holes through the drive around the platter. Cost: zero. Time: about 1 minute per drive.

    1. Re:Use your drill by JWSmythe · · Score: 3, Insightful

          You know what's funny? I have drives to destroy. 1,500 of them. There was sensitive data on them, so they have to be physically destroyed. If we were to go that route, it'd take ... well, it'd probably cost more in drill bits than it's worth. :)

          We found a local place that'll run drives through their shredder. No piece bigger than 1/4". They get to keep the scrap metal, but we have to transport the drives. Easy enough. If you look around enough, you're bound to find someone with such a facility.

       

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    2. Re:Use your drill by jtwronski · · Score: 1

      Yeah, for 1500 it'd be faster to find a shredder, but for the 5-10 a month I have to destroy, a drill works fine. And realistically, nobody's going to get any data from them.

  16. 44 Auto Mag by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    Just fun.

    1. Re:44 Auto Mag by DeDmeTe · · Score: 1

      Myself and a co-worker were just discussing this topic. At my previous job, I would took a box full of old HDD's, several boxes of Winchester whitebox ball ammo (9MM) and my Springfield XD-9 out behind my parents house (who live out in BFE). What a blast. The only problem is the mess it makes. It's by far the most entertaining way I've ever disposed of hard drives.

      --
      -Guns kill people like spoons made Rosie O'Donnell fat-
    2. Re:44 Auto Mag by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      I prefer an SKS with a couple of 30 round mags and some cheap Chinese surplus ammo. That ammo is really poor quality and is really only good for spray and pray. Although semi-auto is fun. My uncle like using his Glock 27 when we do this, and I do get a fair amount of satisfaction of using my granfather's old Remington 11-48 filled with rifled slugs (this makes some massive holes) even if it kicks a whole lot more than the SKS does and costs a bunch more.

      --
      Time to offend someone
  17. magnet and hammer by rimian · · Score: 1

    If you place them in a magnetic field and bang them with a hammer it should jolt the molecules into alignment with the magnetic field. I'm not sure how well however.

    1. Re:magnet and hammer by fuzzyfuzzyfungus · · Score: 1

      HDD platter coercivity is usually pretty high.

      All bets are off if you happen to have a pet MRI apparatus, or go finger-painting all over the platters with a nice rare-earth; but a crummy little degausser made for nuking VHS tapes won't necessarily do the job.

    2. Re:magnet and hammer by isama · · Score: 1

      A friend of mine put a rounded neodynium magnet on top of his laptop, right over the hard drive. he liked how the magnet started to spin on top of his laptop, he didn't like how his laptop was unusable after. He destroyed about 10% of his drive's sectors completely. So my suggestion is open the hard drives, get the magnets out. power the drives up and drop the magnets onto the drive.

  18. Blendtec by tekgoblin · · Score: 2

    Just ask Blendtec, Will it Blend? LOL http://www.youtube.com/user/Blendtec Love these videos

  19. Paper Shredder by ub3r+n3u7r4l1st · · Score: 2

    Open it up, pull the plates out, and run through each one via a shredder, using the slot for CD-ROM if your shredder has one, otherwise the normal slot for paper is fine. Just make sure you don't put it more than one at a time, and be prepare to endure the noise it generates.

    1. Re:Paper Shredder by steelwraith · · Score: 1

      Gonna destroy your shredder if you do that.. and the hammer/firearm trick still leaves too many pieces that can be reassembled and read.

      Thermite/explosives are great but have way to many potential downsides unless you're in the military.

      Easiest way for total destruction (I.e. no chance in hell of recovery) is to :

      1. Remove the platters from the drives
      2. Take a platter and screw it to a board (or more at a time if the board is long enough)
      3. Take an angle grinder and grind off the oxide surface (i.e. bare metal)

      While slow (figure at least ten minutes per drive on average to kill all of the platters) and kinda messy (I'd wear some kind of breathing mask while doing this) it is 100% certain to make your drives unrecoverable.This is the method I used in the military when I re-classed from the infantry and no longer had access to thermite grenades.

    2. Re:Paper Shredder by dakohli · · Score: 1

      As a point of fact. This is what we do where I work. Although the shredder is a large industrial metal shredder. We used to throw the whole drive in, but the bits of magnets would stick to the teeth and be a problem to clean up. So, now we disassemble the drive and shred the discs only.

  20. Should be a reality show by byronne · · Score: 1

    ...similar to 'Punkin Chunkin'.

    --
    "Look, Smithers! I'm Davy Crockett!"
  21. 50BMG by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    750 grains moving at over 3000fps, adding up for over 13,000 ft/lb of muzzle energy, there will be nothing usable left.

    1. Re:50BMG by Spazztastic · · Score: 1

      You'll also be paying $8+ per round. .308 should be more than enough.

      --
      Posts not to be taken literally. Almost everything is sarcasm.
  22. dban by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    why would dban take several weeks? I think you're doing it wrong. DBAN can wipe multiple drives in parallel, and should only need 12 hours at absolute most for full paranoia mode.

  23. Grinding wheel by treymd · · Score: 1

    Remove the plates, use an inexpensive grinding wheel to remove the thin chemical layer from each plate. Shotgun=recoverable sectors.

  24. Move all your important data into them... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    ...delete all other copies.

    They should magically become unreadable.

    1. Re:Move all your important data into them... by lanced · · Score: 1

      The Murphy data destruction technique is effective, but your missing the third requirement: the must also be a pressing deadline.

    2. Re:Move all your important data into them... by sconeu · · Score: 1

      You're forgetting Silverman's Paradox -- "If Murphy's Law can go wrong, it will".

      In it's simplest form -- washing your car to make it rain doesn't work. SImilarly, putting all your data on one drive to make it fail won't work.

      --
      General Relativity: Space-time tells matter where to go; Matter tells space-time what shape to be.
  25. Tired subject? by spineboy · · Score: 1

    1)A hammer party is probably the cheapest easiest way.
    2) take out the physical disk platers from the enclosure and microwave them.
    3 Shotgun
    4hacksaw (in half)

    --
    ..........FULL STOP.
  26. Donate them to Charity? by kodabmx · · Score: 1

    Chances are a Charity would be elated to have 15 extra drives and surely would go to the expense of recovering old data... just saying :)

    1. Re:Donate them to Charity? by Gojira+Shipi-Taro · · Score: 1

      and whoever they gave them to just might. Screw that. destroy them.

      --
      "Oh my God. This is terrible. This is the end of my Presidency. I'm fucked."; ~ Donald J. Trump
  27. Just zero it by Reason58 · · Score: 4, Informative

    It is my understanding that there has never been a single proven recovery of a drive that was simply zeroed out. No silly "military grade" wipe software necessary.

    1. Re:Just zero it by locopuyo · · Score: 1

      goatse.jpg it

    2. Re:Just zero it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

      Yes, their has been. I used to work for a group that did this. Our clients were BIG corperations and guys in cheep black suits. It really comes down to how much time and money you are willing to put into it, but 60% recovery was possible 3 years ago. Your not going to get that using the hardware on the drive (yes, the platters have to come off), but it is possible to get with the right tools and equipment.

    3. Re:Just zero it by Mashiki · · Score: 2

      Nope. That's modern drives, or anything made in the last 5-7ish years. Anything before that you still need to take some precautions in wiping data.

      --
      Om, nomnomnom...
    4. Re:Just zero it by mea_culpa · · Score: 1, Informative

      With specialized equipment drives can be easily recovered when wiped by zeros. With even more sophisticated methods drives that have been written over several times can be recovered layer by layer. These recovery methods are likely very expensive and you don't need to worry about it now but who knows what will be available 10 years from now.
      Physical destruction is really the only way to be sure.

    5. Re:Just zero it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      It's entirely possible to image something that has been zeroed out and see what looks like data. That means you're putting the drive under an electron microscope and doing image analysis of the surface. The reason it isn't done in practice is because it doesn't scale.

      The notion is that the drive head is missing a small percentage of the track. So if my drive head is missing a sizable 1/8 of the track, I need my electron microscope to represent each bit as being *at least* 8 x 8, probably 32 x 32 to be sure. (When you look this closely at circular tracks, you can treat them as parallel lines.) And the image is going to be 256 levels of intensity, so to represent one byte on my drive, I'm using 2^5 x 2^5 x 2^3 x 2^3 bytes, a factor of 65536.

      That's just the space cost of managing the images, there's also the CPU time engaged in image analysis, etc. But lets say you're the Hollywood NSA that has an incredible budget and the wherewithal to employ it efficiently. They've got a huge cluster of system to manage all this so that they can churn through 64 petabytes of data for a typical 1 TB drive.

      The real bottleneck is that they've got one or two platters to image. Our one terabyte drive requires 2^56 pixels, so that's a square 268 million pixels on either end. (For reference, Google Maps's entire image of the Earth is about 150 TB.) And scanning tunneling microscopes, the types that people claim will be used to image drives, are dog slow; papers on high-speed STM claim that they are getting images at "near video" rates. (Don't take my tone as denigrating what these guys have accomplished: that we can look at atoms and stuff at near video rates is awesome.) If our frame is a generous 1024 x 1024 and we're doing 60 frames per second, that's 31 years to scan our 1 TB drive.

      But, wait, it gets better! The geometry of every drive is slightly different as vendors only have to provide a common API, and the specifics are largely undocumented. And have you ever seen how sometimes with Google maps the streets don't quite line up or there are seams? So if you do that with your platter imagery, if you're off (in our example) by 8 pixels, your bits don't line up correctly. And, after all this, you're really only getting a *probability* that each bit was one or zero, even if the person overwriting the drive consistently zeroed it out.

    6. Re:Just zero it by simoncpu+was+here · · Score: 1

      Physical destruction is really the only way to be sure.

      Not really, unless you nuke it from orbit.

    7. Re:Just zero it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      It is my understanding that there has never been a single proven recovery of a drive that was simply zeroed out. No silly "military grade" wipe software necessary.

      More or less, you are right. See this paper.

    8. Re:Just zero it by jimicus · · Score: 2

      I think that's exactly the sort of thing the GP was talking about.

      There is a lot of talk about "with specialised equipment, wiping with zeroes doesn't wipe" but AFAICT, when actually pressed nobody ever follows that up with "and I know of this data recovery company that can do it". My own research suggests that there was once an academic paper which suggested reading a drive with an electron microscope as being hypothetically possible but didn't actually go ahead and do it; Steve Gibson has posited something similar but I don't think it's ever left the realms of the hypothetical.

    9. Re:Just zero it by daha · · Score: 5, Informative

      With specialized equipment drives can be easily recovered when wiped by zeros. With even more sophisticated methods drives that have been written over several times can be recovered layer by layer.

      Easily?!?! Layer by layer? Do you have personal experience recovering overwritten data in this fashion? If so, please let me know, my company would hire you in a heartbeat and you could name your price. This concept has been trashed over and over again on slashdot, and nothing has changed since the last time.

      Think of the signal for a single bit on a platter like a digital Jackson Pollock painting using only two colors. One color represents a 1, the other color is a 0. Each write is a new splatter that gives the picture a new dominant color, but there are still some pixels left over from the previous splatters around the edges. Once the color of a pixel is set, it is set until you change it and you have no idea if the same color pixel next to it was written at the same time or not. You can just see that the overall color of the entire image is one or the other.

      Now let's say, just for the sake of this discussion, that you were actually able to read these mythical "layers", or more appropriately, all the drops of the various splatters. Because this is a magnetic signal and not a physical layer of paint, you have no idea when any given pixel was written compared to the one next to it. There is no concept of a layer because the signals aren't stacked on top of each other, they are all next to each other. Now let's say that you have somehow managed to design and build the most sensitive magnetic read head ever conceived so that it is able to read the signal of every single molecule in the space that this bit occupies. That's great. Now you've determined that there were a bunch of 1's and 0's. Which order were they written in? Did that 1 from over to the left come before or after that 0 that you read from the lower right?

      Assuming you got that figured out, now you need to get the next 7 bits just to make a byte. Did you get all 8 bits from the same write put together? Or did you screw one up because you got the ordering of your "layers" a little mixed up?

      Now that you've got an entire byte reconstructed, you need to do the same with the other 511 bytes for the sector. Did you get all 4,096 bits for the sector correct for your "layer" of data? I'm a little skeptical...

      Now go get the rest of your file, because it probably isn't all contained within a single 512 byte sector, and it may very well be written to different regions of the drive if it wasn't all written as a contiguous allocation. Depending on the file system and the size of the file, it's could be guaranteed that it is not contiguous - ext3 will be non-contiguous if it is larger than 6K.

      Now that you have every bit recovered for a single file, did you get every bit correct? You're most likely in trouble if you screw up even a single bit and try to open it with the native application. LZ-based compression used for the file? It's almost sure to be busted as soon as you hit that bad bit and you won't be able to decompress anything beyond it. Different files have different tolerances, but unless you plan to look at everything with a hex editor, you're probably going to have a lot of trouble. Even something like a Word document (*.doc, not the *.docx) isn't going to be as easy as you think because the file does its own allocations of 64 bytes at a time within the file. If you did any edits, or have anything other than just plain text that is all the same font style, your text is no longer contiguous. If that Word document is using the new format (*.docx), then you out of luck because it is using a variant of LZ compression.

      Oh, the file was a picture? No, still not always going to help you. Certain graphics file formats, like JPEG, do tolerate some corruption of the data (depending on where the corruption shows up), but some are just as fragile as a compressed data file.

      Now repeat this for every file until you find files that are actually valuable to you. The amount of effort needed to reconstruct anything that has been overwritten far exceeds the value of whatever data it was.

    10. Re:Just zero it by punkmanandy · · Score: 1

      deleted != zeroed. A zeroed drive has been entirely overwritten with zeroes. The software you are talking about recovers deleted files, where the file data is still on the disk.

    11. Re:Just zero it by fnj · · Score: 1

      Yeah, because we really believe the word of an anonymous coward with no evidence. The proposition is simply not believable and has been debunked elsewhere.

    12. Re:Just zero it by Johnny+Mnemonic · · Score: 1

      The problem is that drives that you usually want to dispose of can't be mounted to write zeroes. That doesn't mean that the platters still don't hold data.

      --

      --
      $tar -xvf .sig.tar
    13. Re:Just zero it by CityZen · · Score: 1

      I don't believe you in the slightest. PRML means that the drive is already using statistical likelihood to even read the data that it wrote there. Note that writing zeros to a drive doesn't mean literally writing a null signal to the disk, since there must always be a mix of bits in order for the data to be clocked properly. Second, the bits on the disk shift around each time they are written (which is why you need "blank" space between sectors, and why sectors went to 4KB instead of 512B). There are plenty of other reasons why data that's zeroed out is gone.

      The 60% figure you allude to is most likely the amount of data that really wasn't overwritten in the first place. Or else, the drives in question were old enough to be pre-PRML. In any case, there are precious few folks' data that is worth this kind of consideration in the first place.

      For the most part, people are just wastefully destroying good hard drives that could be used for other purposes. In fact, so often when drives are removed from good working computers, the computers themselves get scrapped because people are too silly to figure out how to get them working again (and the deinstallers often throw away sleds, cables, screws, and other custom bits that are needed to fit everything together).

    14. Re:Just zero it by gknoy · · Score: 1

      I find it amusing that you're willing to spend time writing zeros to a disk when it's generally faster and easier to physically destroy them.

    15. Re:Just zero it by screwdriver · · Score: 1

      And if you nuke it from orbit, you get the added bonus of the resulting EMP wiping all nearby HD's as well.

  28. At least... by coldmist · · Score: 1

    one shot from a .30-06 rifle. Punches a nice little hole in the casing, and shatters the platters inside. It's quite fun too!

    --
    Don't steal. The government hates competition.
    1. Re:At least... by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      Can I shoot it 8 times instead.

      Unloading half a clip makes a mess.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    2. Re:At least... by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 1

      I agree. Shooting is an easy and effective way to destroy a hard drive. I'm not too sure about a .22... I suppose it depends on the drive. It would probably be enough for a newer laptop drive but the older desktop drives? Iffy.

    3. Re:At least... by nschubach · · Score: 1

      Only if by "unloading" you mean pulling the bullet out of the casing. ;)

      --
      Every time I start to have faith in humanity, I ruin it by driving to work between 7 and 8 am.
    4. Re:At least... by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      Any hunting rifle rounds will put nice holes through the drive and shatter glass platters. I am not sure about 22LR as I don't own one, but I do know that a 20 gauge slug will not go all the way through the case, platters and cover, but will make a massive dent. A 12 gauge slug will however make a massive hole and send pieces flying. Personally I like to disassemble the drives and then use the platters as targets as the magnets are very useful. Once the platters resemble baby swiss cheese they go off to be recycled with the rest of my aluminum.

      --
      Time to offend someone
  29. Get an old-school bulk tape degausser by kimvette · · Score: 1
    --
    The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    1. Re:Get an old-school bulk tape degausser by kimvette · · Score: 1

      Someone demonstrating this method on youtube

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s12-sSuVoT0

      --
      The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    2. Re:Get an old-school bulk tape degausser by Stuarticus · · Score: 1

      You're paying too much! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//260862721403

      --
      If you think someone isn't free to have a different definition of "freedom" you may be a tyrant.
  30. 3rd party destruction by mrsnort · · Score: 1

    I've taken heaps to 3rd party secure destruction places in the past and they allow me to sit with ear muffs and safety glasses and watch them get destroyed and turn into metal garden mulch,just find a place with competitive prices and your good to go

    1. Re:3rd party destruction by Creepy · · Score: 1

      I've even taken them to a metal scrapyard (specifically the metal scrapyard at the transfer/waste station) and they toss the electronics in a scrap heap and shred the body and platters (which are made out of a cobalt alloy) in front of me. I didn't have any sensitive data on those drives, but thought I'd mention it.

  31. physical destruction by ruebarb · · Score: 1

    I think I'd definitely trust physical destruction (take apart, rip platters out, smash with hammer, dispose) over multiple write erases

    I seem to remember seeing a hydraulic press/punch being used by someone - - put a nice one inch hole in the hard drive and that was that but it wouldn't take long to take them out and just smash the platters with a sledgehammer...or using the sledgehammer itself on the hd may be fun too

    RB

    --

    ----------
    ah honey, we're all resplendent - Bill Mallonee
    1. Re:physical destruction by jbplou · · Score: 1

      A hammer is worthless for destroying the platters. If you have the platters out you might as well just shred them or cut them up somehow.

  32. Data Backup / Data Destruction by QuasiSteve · · Score: 3, Informative

    What - we just had the "omg how do I save my pictures/videos for my great-great-great-grandchildren!?!?" 3-monthly Slashdot story, so now the "aaaargh! I can't let some schmuck discover all the home made porn and paste it all over the interwebs!!!" was overdue?

    Seriously, people... HDD tech hasn't changed enough to make the same answers from 5 years ago any different now.

    http://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aslashdot.org+how+to+dispose+of+hdd

    1. Re:Data Backup / Data Destruction by The-Blue-Clown · · Score: 1

      Man I'm glad you said this. Saved me the trouble. I drill and pitch drives because my manager knows more than I due to his having more gray hair than I.

  33. This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it. by AbRASiON · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I can't stand "security" people in business in general with this impulsive urge to physically destroy hard drives because of the data they stored.
    Go do some googling, a simple ONE PASS of 0's on the disk WILL make the data absoloutely, without question unrecoverable, anyone who tells you otherwise is in to voodoo and black magic or trying to make some profit.

    A huge amount of these "security professionals" insist on trashing perfectly good hardware for no apparent reason, it's a complete was of good resources.
    The amount of perfectly good disks I've seen killed is astounding and not always old clunkers either, some relatively decent sized, high performing disks to boot.

    DBAN doesn't take forever either, hook them up to a spare PC and fire it off, change the disks every couple of hours, infact if I recall DBAN supports multiple drives at the same time.
    Sure if you have a 40gb IDE or something, just drill a hole in it - but if you're trashing anything over 160gb you're starting to ruin perfectly good hardware, for the sake of being pedantic and frankly stupid - stop and just don't do it.
    This goes for anyone else suggesting the same thing, go and do some reading before believing any of this "must be 12pass write" rubbish to a disk.
    FWIW A good 0 write to a disk doesn't normally take more than a few hours.

  34. Open them up and salvage the magnets by SensitiveMale · · Score: 4, Informative

    Very powerful magnets in the drives. Open them up, take out the magnets, and throw away the drives. If you are really paranoid, pop the discs out. But definitely salvage the magnets. They come in handy.

    1. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by rodch · · Score: 1

      One thing they are really handy for is wiping the platters.

    2. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by L4t3r4lu5 · · Score: 1

      I did this just this week, but with floppy drives. I keep three stuck to the heating pipe on the other side of the room, with a piece of cardboard folded around them to form a handle. I tried one disk with readable data before and after: Data before, "The disk is not formatted". I waved the magnet over the disk two or three times, and it was all gone.

      I've not done this with a hard drive yet (Health and safety might be a bid annoyed at 7200rpm bare metal disks on my desk). I expect the same results.

      --
      Finally had enough. Come see us over at https://soylentnews.org/
    3. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by L4t3r4lu5 · · Score: 2

      Oh sweet jesus, my sincere apologies for the travesty above. Proof reading is obviously a skill I need to work on.

      I did this just this week, but with floppy disks. I keep three neodymium magnets stuck to the heating pipe on the other side of the room, with a piece of cardboard folded around them to form a handle. I tried one disk with readable data before and after: Data readable before exposure, "The disk is not formatted" afterwards. I waved the magnet over the disk two or three times, and it was all gone.

      I've not done this with a hard drive yet (Health and safety might be a bid annoyed at 7200rpm bare metal disks on my desk). I expect the same results.

      --
      Finally had enough. Come see us over at https://soylentnews.org/
    4. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by dnahelicase · · Score: 1

      Very powerful magnets in the drives. Open them up, take out the magnets, and throw away the drives. If you are really paranoid, pop the discs out. But definitely salvage the magnets. They come in handy.

      I second that. I disassemble old drives at work when I'm on the phone with people. It keeps my hands busy while still allowing me to focus on the conversation. Otherwise I end up surfing the web and spacing out.

      I take off all the circuit boards and non metallic parts - and then recycle all the metal and circuit boards separately. I keep the platters because they are super shiny, and the magnets are the best refrigerator magnets ever.

      Also, I keep one on my bookshelf with just the cover off. It looks cool, and it allows people to see that hard drives are basically very small, dense, record players.

    5. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by stubob · · Score: 1

      Yes, I'm often out of reach of a handy finger-crusher.

      --
      Planning to be moderated ± 1: Bad Pun.
    6. Re:Open them up and salvage the magnets by nschubach · · Score: 1

      They are miracles in and of themselves.

      --
      Every time I start to have faith in humanity, I ruin it by driving to work between 7 and 8 am.
  35. I've used a hammer and a nail by PeterM+from+Berkeley · · Score: 1

    Just nail through the case and through the platters.

    --PM

  36. A tap from a Hammer by Vecanti · · Score: 1

    Take a hammer a give them a whack.

    The platters inside will shatter. It doesn't take much ( you don't have to beat them to death or anything) and you be able to easily hear all the glass/ceramic inside.

    This doesn't work with all hard drives. Some platters are aluminum, but it's worth a quick test before you go through the trouble of doing anything else. Use to do this in the shop I worked in. Interestingly all the 2.5" drives I have ever run across have all been glass/ceramic.

  37. They make great decorations by GiovanniZero · · Score: 1

    I always just take the platters out, run a magnet over them and hang them on my wall. I play with the platters fairly often as well so there's not a whole lot of chance for any data recovery. Plus they look cool!

    --
    Mod me up, mod me down, do your worst you modding clown.
    1. Re:They make great decorations by dmomo · · Score: 1

      The plate that binds the spinner to the disc is pretty cool looking. It looks like some kind of steam punk component.

  38. DBAN is unnecessary. by rollingcalf · · Score: 4, Informative

    One pass with zeroes or random data over the whole drive is sufficient, unless you expect that a large government agency is going to open up the hard drives and spend millions of dollars to attempt to recover the data (and even they might be unable to get at the overwritten data. See http://www.nber.org/sys-admin/overwritten-data-guttman.html).

    With dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sdb you can wipe all the hard drives in a weekend.

    --
    ---------
    There is inferior bacteria on the interior of your posterior.
    1. Re:DBAN is unnecessary. by del_diablo · · Score: 1

      This.
      So far nobody has managed to prove that they can recover data overwritten by dd.

    2. Re:DBAN is unnecessary. by lewiscr · · Score: 1

      I prefer to zero the disks, not my entropy source.

      I've found dd with the default block size (512 bytes) to be very slow. I generally run
      dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sda bs=1M

      There's probably a more optimal value, but 1M is close enough to optimal that it was a waste of time to refine it more.

      Disclaimer: Don't cut and paste shell commands off the internet without understanding them.

    3. Re:DBAN is unnecessary. by cbiltcliffe · · Score: 1

      You could argue it. But you'd be wrong. Because you're not writing anything to the drive. Just sending a stream of zeros to a random number generator. :P

      --
      "City hall" in German is "Rathaus" Kinda explains a few things......
  39. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by fuzzyfuzzyfungus · · Score: 4, Insightful

    The magnetic field patterns are on the surface of the platters. Sand the surface off(recommendation: do not breathe result.) and there is nothing to recover.

    Unless you have pretty cool secrets, though, nearly anything that prevents them from Just Working when plugged in is probably enough.

  40. What is the data? by jamesh · · Score: 1

    How likely is it that someone is ever even going to try and get the data off the disks? Obviously it's not national security data or you wouldn't be asking here. Put it another way, how much is your data worth to others? Would someone want to invest $10, $100, $1000, or $1000000 of effort in trying to recover it?

    For something different - open the lid of the drive, put some sand in there, close the lid, give it a vigorous shake, then power it up. It should be destroyed in no time.

    1. Re:What is the data? by jamesh · · Score: 1

      Excuse me, grammar police here.

      You mean the anonymous-and-too-timid-to-put-grammar-nazi-on-your-resume police.

      The word "data" is plural, hence your subject title should be "What are the data?"

      Perhaps that was true 100 years ago. Today the word "data" is valid as a singular noun ("singular mass noun") and so "is" is correct in the title (or at least as correct as "are" would be).

      Evolution is one of the beautiful things about the English language.

  41. Take them apart by Max+Romantschuk · · Score: 1

    I simply got a set of torx drivers, and take my drives apart. Then I bend/scratch the disks and the control board; running the reader arm magnets over the disks is if I feel extra paranoid.

    --
    .: Max Romantschuk :: http://max.romantschuk.fi/
    1. Re:Take them apart by danlip · · Score: 1

      Yes, easy and fun to take apart hard drives. Just be careful bending the disks, sometimes that shatter into many sharp shards (wrap them in something thick or wear thick gloves and eye protection).

  42. have fun!! by ufpdom · · Score: 1

    I take them apart and use the spindles for fun and they have awesome incredible magnets in them.. Costs NOTHING!!!!

    --
    There's no Freedom like UFP-dom
  43. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Lehk228 · · Score: 1, Troll

    few hours fucking around with hard drives, or five minutes smashing old hard drives that are too small to be worth someone's time reusing (really who needs a 20 gig hard drive)

    --
    Snowden and Manning are heroes.
  44. disk dispose.pl by persicom · · Score: 1

    Drive.Open();
    @Platters = Drive.Remove()
    Pieces = map {crack in two} map {apply orbital sander} @Platters;
    ForEach( Piece, Pieces)
    {
            If( Today + 1 == garbageDay() )
            {
                    push @garbage, pop @pieces
            }
          sleep 1 day
    }

    I leave garbage collection as a separate function...

  45. Freeze Them! Good and Solid by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    This is the among the best and cheapest ways to destroy your HDD.

    Submerge your drives in a tub of water, whack them in your freezer, done!

    Water will destroy the electronics, while the freezing process will physically destroy the platters, rendering the disc completely useless.

  46. Install Windows on Them by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Informative

    After installing Windows on a hard drive, it becomes worthless. And after a while the actual bits will become corrupted into random values.

    --

    --
    make install -not war

    1. Re:Install Windows on Them by westlake · · Score: 1

      After installing Windows on a hard drive, it becomes worthless.

      Citatation needed. Just for laughs. When the topic is Windows, the mod up to +5 doesn't require any proof here.

    2. Re:Install Windows on Them by rusty0101 · · Score: 1

      I simply print off and apply a "Western Digital Caviar 200" label. Haven't seen one last more than 6 months. Some of the later models have been ok, but the 200's, not even good paperweights.

      --
      You never know...
    3. Re:Install Windows on Them by justsayin · · Score: 1

      100% totally agree. After all, Windows is technically a virus.

  47. If it can spin, it can be read. by Jimbob+The+Mighty · · Score: 3, Informative

    Thermite, or any other method to melt the platters.

    1. Re:If it can spin, it can be read. by rusty0101 · · Score: 1

      If you're going this way, might I suggest just getting a belt sander and a shop vac. Most belt sanders have a shop vac hose fitting to collect the product of sanding. set it up with a good 150-80 grit belt turn it over and set up a platform to let gravity hold the disk against the belt. Turn it on, suck the remnants of the drive into the vac. You've got a shop vac now with powdered hard drive.

      Main concern is that you have a good filter on the vac. There is lead in the solder on most drive controllers.

      --
      You never know...
    2. Re:If it can spin, it can be read. by Krennson · · Score: 1

      Thermite, Definitely

  48. The classics are best by KublaiKhan · · Score: 1

    A very large hammer

    --
    In Xanadu did Kubla Khan
    A stately pleasure dome decree
  49. SImple by koan · · Score: 1

    Hydrofluoric acid bath.

    --
    "If any question why we died, Tell them because our fathers lied."
    1. Re:SImple by tempest69 · · Score: 1

      Hydrofluoric acid bath.

      Just don't use your own bathtub.. trust me.

      Other alternatives.....

      Tannerite
      Large Caliber Rifle
      Disposable BBQ, and lots of Charcoal and LOX
      Thermite, or magnesium (sparklers/road flares)
      Build your own house powered electromagnet
      Fill the drive with decongel.
      Some quality time with a welding torch
      Just take some xanax, nobody is going to spend time to get data of a broken drive, unless there is reason to suspect otherwise.
      deep six them in a bathtub filled with epsom salts, wait a few days.

      pull the platters, use microwave to generate plasma to burn the drive,(the extra electrons should be nice). Or make molten steel to maim the platters.

  50. Safer than thermite or shooting with a .30-06 is: by exabrial · · Score: 1

    If you have access to metal working equipment, I'd just use an oxy-acetylene cutting torch. The thin metal case and platters melt away in a second or two... This is by far the most effective method i've discovered, you can do 20 hard drives in 20 mins.

  51. Nobody wanbts your old crap by Moof123 · · Score: 1

    Unless you are worried about the feds recovering your kiddie porn collection, just wipe the files. If you are worried about your kiddie porn collection, then just have a hammer party. Once they are warped and scratch NOBODY will get the crap off their without NSA levels of resources.

    Stupid geek paranoia.

  52. Remington 476 by dickens · · Score: 1

    This is inexpensive and very effective. You can even do two at once with a 3" nail!

  53. Dremel & Scrap Metal by Nuitari+The+Wiz · · Score: 1

    I usually open up the cover, power it the drive up so it spins (so a platter is exposed), use a dremel with a grinder attachment to damage the first layer. This will already make it unrecoverable.

    After that I take the bunch of platters and bring it to a scrap metal dealer so it can be recycled / smelted.

    1. Re:Dremel & Scrap Metal by Legion303 · · Score: 1

      And if you do that with the right type of drive, you can enjoy 7200 RPM shrapnel.

  54. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Reason58 · · Score: 2

    You actually do not have to sit there turning a crank to power the computer. Simply start the process and then let it run. Less than a half hour of your time in total, and you have irrecoverable data.

  55. Put them all in a box and store them indefinitely. by Ron+Bennett · · Score: 1

    Another option is not trashing them, but instead put them all in a box to store indefinitely.

  56. What's the fastest, cheapest DIY solution? by mysidia · · Score: 1

    A fence, or wall. Step about 15 or 20 feet away from the wall, pick up the hard drive, and THROW the hard drive at the fence/wall Hard. Throwing the disk drive down from a 2nd floor balcony also works (make sure there is nobody down there before throwing); repeat two additional times.

    The basic notion is this will subject the disk drive to forces that will damage the very sensitive mechnical servo mechanisms, and the heads on the drives.

    Next, grab a hammer and a chisel. Wear face protection. Find a portion of the disk drive that is plastic, use the chisel and hammer to cut through the plastic a bit, until the seal is broken.

    Get A tub full of brackish muddy water with some salt and some citric acid.

    You know... put enough water in a tub to fully immerse the target drives, drop the hard drives into the muddy water. The destruction is almost immediate... but for good measure, soak them a few days.

    If you're feeling really diabolical, run an electrical current through the water.

  57. Don't Be Too Quick To Destroy by tgeek · · Score: 2

    Especially for some of the older models, check ebay first to see what they're selling for. You may be surprised at what some DIY drive rebuilders will pay for an exact match of a drive they're trying to fix. That useless-to-you old 40GB drive may contain the exact drive motor or controller somebody's looking for (and willing to pay for).

  58. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Dan+East · · Score: 1

    He said "IF" he had IDE hardware capable of interfacing with the drive. He doesn't, so the act of physically destroying the drive isn't some massive security precaution, but one of simple convenience.

    --
    Better known as 318230.
  59. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by jargonburn · · Score: 1

    Did you mean impossible? Or implausible? There's a difference. Underneath all thoses glorious 1s and 0s is a magnetic signature that is very MUCH analog. Is it possible to run the hard-drives, as is, through some software and pull overwritten information off the drive? Hell No. The drive controllers don't report the relative strength of the signal, just the 1s and 0s that it reads based on the strength. Would it be expensive/time-consuming/unreliable? Yes. Not impossible.

  60. Bulk tape demagnetizer by JazzHarper · · Score: 1

    Powerful alternating magnetic field. Cheap on eBay.

  61. Saw them in half by m2pc · · Score: 1

    Funny, we just ran into this very situation at work today. Since we happened to have a band saw capable of cutting metal, someone just simply cut it right in half. Took about 30 seconds and it was rendered useless.

  62. The solution. by sidragon.net · · Score: 1

    If your data was really that sensitive, you would have encrypted it in the first place. Then there would be no need to wipe the disks. And you could have used Google, but you wanted attention, so you brought this old question back to Ask Slashdot for yet another unnecessary run.

  63. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 1

    I'm sorry, I didn't see him specify 20 gig hard disks, where did he state that?

  64. Magnets by rivin2e · · Score: 1

    Remembering a troll post i saw once, you could rub a magnet over the side of it/them a couple times. it 'should' wipe everything from them. Now i cant remember if this really works, but id assume it does. I've never trashed old drives personally... i like keeping them as collectibles... from my 8Mb hard drive to my 3 TB one... Good times...

  65. two simple ways by skastrik · · Score: 1
    Cheap: Disassemble, destroy platters. http://www.dominopower.com/issues/issue200603/00001737002

    Fast: Shooting range, rifle.

  66. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by mr.mctibbs · · Score: 2

    Jesus GOD mod parent up! Remember when security progressives realized that security is a cost vs. effort equation? That applies to hardware destruction. It's not fucking worth it. How many assholes with a grudge do you think actually have an electron microscope and enough hatred for you to want to use it just to get your company's expense reports? Get off the ego trip, buy a degaussing wand (what the DoD uses, btw) and take off the damned tinfoil hat.

  67. Don't be a pedophile by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    That's the best solution.

  68. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by plover · · Score: 2

    Physical destruction is appropriate for used drives because they're really bad resources. Spinning disk drives are machines that wear out over time. They get a few thousand hours on them, and then they die.

    I've measured the actual MTTF of drives that had published specs promising 300,000 hours MTTF. Of a population of 24 drives, I had 30% mortality within 60,000 hours (with somewhere near 25,000 being the mean.) That means we saw quite a bit less than the 300,000 promised hours. And these were the all-the-money high quality 15K RPM server drives, properly mounted in cooled systems, not the cheap consumer grade drives that were roasted in a cheap PC case. Old drives are a time-bomb with a very finite life.

    New drives are down to $0.05 per gigabyte or less. They use less electricity than older drives, and have capacities far greater. And the machines aren't worn to within a few hours of the end of their useful life. It's false economy to think that old drives are worth saving. They're certainly not worth risking your data on.

    --
    John
  69. Re:Drill Press by dfsmith · · Score: 2

    They definitely wouldn't be able to get the data back if you'd formatted them with 2's and 3's.

  70. use them as speakers by aaronpeacock · · Score: 1

    use them as speakers. PWM baybeee http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsQd2n99zS4 but i like floppies better... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4SCSGRVAQE

  71. RAID 5 array by bgonderi · · Score: 2

    Put them into a RAID 5 array. Tap one of the hard drives while it's running - this will lead to array failure. When it tries to rebuild, it's almost guaranteed to hose all your data. To increase the chances of data loss, be sure to place the only copies of pictures/videos of important events in your child's life.

    1. Re:RAID 5 array by toadlife · · Score: 1

      Ouch. :(

      --
      I don't always use unix-like operating systems; but when I do, I prefer FreeBSD.
  72. I'm poor, give them to me. by Nyder · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I'll clear them off for ya, sheesh, i'll rewrite data over 9000 times if it makes ya happy, but let me have the drives.

    I'm poor and destroying useful hardware hurts me.

    --
    Be seeing you...
    1. Re:I'm poor, give them to me. by Gaygirlie · · Score: 1

      I'm poor and destroying useful hardware hurts me.

      Aye, destroying perfectly good, useable hardware is silly. Every time I hear friends or family upgrading I always ask for the overleft parts, I can always find something to use them for. And then sometimes I hear a friend or friend's friend needing a PC for surfing the web and all the stuff I've collected suddenly becomes useful for someone else, too. (No, I've never asked money for putting together a spareparts-PC for someone, I kind of figure "what comes around goes around.")

      Alas, atleast here in Finland no one seems interested in giving spare parts away, they either try to sell the parts for a way too high price and then 20 years later they just throw the parts away because they didn't manage to sell them to anyone, or they destroy the hardware.

  73. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

    Depends on how bad "your worst" is.

  74. Use at rifle range as targets by dcavanaugh · · Score: 1

    Fire away until destroyed. Gets the job done and it's fun.

  75. From now on... by Ectospheno · · Score: 2

    Others have posted on what to do with your current problem. Now that you see how annoying it can be may I suggest full hard drive encryption from now on. Then when you want to get rid of the drive you just throw it away.

  76. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 1

    Most PC's have 6 SATA ports, so that's 6 disks at a time. Fine scrap the IDE ones (then again, a large enough one is probably rare and worth something to a PS2 or Xbox 1 collector)

    As I made CLEAR IN MY POST, anything over 160gb is retarded.
    I'm sick of people who can't read clearly.

  77. Pure Leverage crusher by chriswaco · · Score: 1

    If you had to destroy hard drives regularly, the Pure Leverage hard drive crusher looks like a nice way to do it:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vY3ZssxkcsQ

    But it's a bit expensive for only 10 drives -- $325.

  78. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 1

    You've never built a spare PC?
    Don't need a new drive for the PS2 / Xbox 1 / PS3?
    You don't have 20$ for an external caddy to hold the drive?

    Ditch drives under 160gb, it's not worth it, as I clearly stated - however things over that are likely fine. Oh and brand new disks die too, that's what backups are for.

  79. We use a shredding service.. by Phil_at_EvilNET · · Score: 1

    The outfit I currently work for disposes of an unbelievable amount of hardware, including hard drives. Due to *government* requirements, every drive gets disposed of via a company that comes to the site with a portable shredder. Every drive is inventoried prior to removal, secured in a lock box, inventoried prior to disposal, and then shredded. The outfit I work for destroys so much shit it makes me ill. It's so wasteful it boggles the mind. I guess when you're in the business of making money from money, you can afford it. Too bad none of the bean counters have a clue as to how much they'd recoup if they sold the stuff they threw away instead of paying a disposal outfit to take it.

    --
    To avoid corruption, one must remain dishonest.
    1. Re:We use a shredding service.. by nojayuk · · Score: 1

      Same here. There have been quite a few newsworthy instances of private/commercial data being found on second-hand disk drives from Ebay, USB keys and CD-ROMs left in trains etc. that it's better in the long run for a data centre to shred the disks once they are taken out of service rather than have that happen to them. The auditing and inventory check is to make sure they all get shredded and none of them walk out the door in an engineer's toolbox destined for his home NAS upgrade (Johnny Cash wrote a song about that...). Data security is more important than saving a couple of hundred bucks recycling or repurposing a surplus disk.

      These are enterprise disks though (10k and 15k SAS drives) and the thought of putting a second-hand drive with ten thousand plus spindle hours on it into a very-high-uptime server with an SLA would make most data centre managers cringe.

  80. PATA/SATA - USB by Sits · · Score: 1

    Buy a couple of PATA -> USB adaptors, hook them up to multiple computers and away you go. It's going to take time though but one pass of 0s will put it beyond conventional data recovery means. Of course, this only works if the disks continue to work...

  81. Naive though it may sound, Zeroing it? by goathumper · · Score: 1

    A while back I remember a challenge being put out to any company specializing in drive forensics to recover ANY data from a drive that had been wiped using a simple dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sda or what not. Something in the order of a million dollars or some other huge(ish) prize.

    I also remember that there ended up being no takers for what would have in theory been a free meal if we're to believe the prevalent hooplah around drive forensics. Given how widely publicized the challenge was it was taken as many in the know as a sign that despite what the science behind the magnetic data on the platters says, once wiped to zeroes it becomes either impractical or impossible to reliably recover the actual data that was once stored there.

    Again, this is just conjecture based on partially-informed observation, and incomplete recollection of that event. I didn't track it enough to know if there ended up being takers after all, how they fared, etc. I do remember it being publicized here on /. so you might search the archives for it. It was some time ago - years maybe, months definitely.

  82. Re:Drill Press by plover · · Score: 3, Funny

    When I worked as a Data Security Tech we formatted them with 1's and 0's 7 times before crushing them with a drill press. NO ONE could recover that data.

    You crushed them with a drill press? Here's a tip: the switch on the drill press makes the pointed thing spin, and you can turn the handle to make the pointed thing put holes in the hard drives. It's much less work than crushing them.

    --
    John
  83. dban not always possible by compwizrd · · Score: 1

    sometimes you can't run dban on the drive because of media damage or head damage. I have two boxes(used to be 10 reams of paper in each box, so it's a fair size) full of hard drives that I haven't gotten around to destroying yet.

    Be very careful if you are doing the bend, drill or sand method of ruining the platters.. Laptop drives are usually glass.. shards will go all over, including into your hands.

  84. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by jbplou · · Score: 1

    If you only have one drive that is fine, what if you have two hundred drives and they are not already in a computer?

  85. What's on them by sjames · · Score: 1

    If it's just typical private but not that valuable stuff like banking info, just overwrite with zeros. To be extra sure or to help eliminate stress, sledge-o-matic till dead.

  86. Re:Drill Press by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 1

    A drill press does not crush things unless you're using it wrong. A drill press makes holes in things. It sounds like you stuck the drive in a press, not a drill press. Hydraulic presses can put TONS of force on things, one year at the annual Dayton Hamfest, my buddy brought a 60-TON hydraulic press (about the size of a car jack) and we went around buying $2.00 old cell phones and crushing the shit out of them! A really flat cell phone looks hilarious, and makes a nice coaster. Of course, all the jokes were "gee that phone has flat audio", "can I get a flat rate plan?", etc.

    --
    -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
  87. Fire by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Wood burning stove in the winter or bonfire in the back yard. Chunk of melted metal. Unreadable. Dozens at a time. Works with USB and SSD also :-)

  88. Re:Covered a long time ago! by drunkennewfiemidget · · Score: 1

    They successfully destroyed the drives it was stored on?

  89. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    ^ This.

    Modern ATA drives (post 2001-ish) have secure erase which includes erasing damaged sectors which would otherwise be skipped over.

    Number of overwrites needed

    This is one of the laziest posts I have seen yet on Slashdot. wtf people use the internet it's faster than waiting for slashdotters to use the internet for you.

  90. put your family's photos on them by kreyszig · · Score: 1

    they will then inevitably become corrupted after a couple of years, teaching you a lesson for not asking /. how to do backup your data for eternity

  91. Yup. by Cyno01 · · Score: 1

    I'd say anything above a 22 long should be enough to put a hole in a hard dive, and will probably be more fun than sanding or something. Smashing is fun too though, its up to you. A 20# sledge and a concrete surface would do the trick too.

    --
    "Sic Semper Tyrannosaurus Rex."
    1. Re:Yup. by MrRobahtsu · · Score: 1

      .30-06, 7.62x54r, .243 Win, .223/5.56 are all good reliable data wipes. Pistol calibers, maybe, but it's more fun with a rifle at 50-100 yards. Clean-up is easy, too.

  92. Seconded on DBAN. by SexyKellyOsbourne · · Score: 2

    I was about to post this myself, but DBAN will do the trick. There's practically no way anyone will recover anything but a few random strings of plain text out of that, and that's only if they have the analog tools in a forensics lab. Even the chance of reconstructing a usable credit card account out of that is in the same probability range as guesswork.

    But I will say that your estimate of 200GB is pretty low for what's worth re-using unless you're broke. Any drive that's been in use for 3-5 years is well past warranty and isn't really worth putting anything valuable on without a sensible backup and recovery scheme. Any drive 200GB in size (unless it's SSD, etc) is usually at least that old, I had a 200GB drive personally in early 2003. A brand new 1TB drive will only run $55.

    (I of course agree that throwing fresh 3TB drives into tubs of driveway cleaner simply to "100% wipe data" would be absolutely stupid.)

    1. Re:Seconded on DBAN. by GordonBX · · Score: 1

      Seriously, which part of:

      Even if I still had IDE hardware, I don't want to wait several weeks to run DBAN on all of them.

      did you not understand?

      I know nobody reads the articles before commenting, but not reading the first line of the SUMMARY? Are you guys OK with that breathing and walking at the same time thing or do you need some help?

    2. Re:Seconded on DBAN. by toadlife · · Score: 1

      The several weeks number is massive hyperbole. It's more like several hours - with only a few minutes of human intervention required.

      Taking the time to physically destroy the platters would probably take more time, more energy and pollute the environment.

      --
      I don't always use unix-like operating systems; but when I do, I prefer FreeBSD.
  93. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by ToasterMonkey · · Score: 1

    I can't stand "security" people in business in general with this impulsive urge to physically destroy hard drives because of the data they stored.
    Go do some googling, a simple ONE PASS of 0's on the disk WILL make the data absoloutely, without question unrecoverable, anyone who tells you otherwise is in to voodoo and black magic or trying to make some profit.

    A huge amount of these "security professionals" insist on trashing perfectly good hardware for no apparent reason, it's a complete was of good resources.
    The amount of perfectly good disks I've seen killed is astounding and not always old clunkers either, some relatively decent sized, high performing disks to boot.

    DBAN doesn't take forever either, hook them up to a spare PC and fire it off, change the disks every couple of hours, infact if I recall DBAN supports multiple drives at the same time.
    Sure if you have a 40gb IDE or something, just drill a hole in it - but if you're trashing anything over 160gb you're starting to ruin perfectly good hardware, for the sake of being pedantic and frankly stupid - stop and just don't do it.
    This goes for anyone else suggesting the same thing, go and do some reading before believing any of this "must be 12pass write" rubbish to a disk.
    FWIW A good 0 write to a disk doesn't normally take more than a few hours.

    Published research says otherwise...

    If you're going to make one pass, at least write random data, not zeros you bozo.

  94. A Torx Screwdriver and Patience by djl4570 · · Score: 1

    I sat in front of the TV watching sports while I removed all of the torx screws. (You need a set of small torx screwdrivers for this approach) I completely disassembled each drive. The electronics went to the next ewaste collection, the empty cases and covers went in the recycle bin. The platters are flat and highly reflective which makes them excellent bird deterrents in fruit trees. The head positioning motor has the best fridge magnet I've ever encountered.

  95. My advice... by Literaphile · · Score: 2, Insightful

    ... get over yourself. Your data is not that important. Nobody cares.

    1. Re:My advice... by Martian_Kyo · · Score: 1

      It might not be important but sure as hell is incriminating.

    2. Re:My advice... by ShakaUVM · · Score: 1

      >>... get over yourself. Your data is not that important. Nobody cares.

      Unless you work for a hospital or someone that has regulations on how data has to be disposed of.

    3. Re:My advice... by ShakaUVM · · Score: 1

      >>And then it's not DIY you stupid fuck.

      Unless he's a poor schmuck stuck with a policy saying "data must be unrecoverable" but not specifying a specific method to do so.

      Which, you know, is sort of the point of the article.

  96. Re:Freeze Them! Good and Solid by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

    "freezing process will physically destroy the platters, rendering the disc completely useless."

    Not a chance, as anyone who's ever left their notebook in a car overnight in the winter will tell you - it still works just fine the next day.

  97. Probably the most fun by MoreBeer · · Score: 1

    Nothing a AR50 with .50cal incendiary rounds won't fix...

    HardOCP TV - .50 Caliber BMG - Shooting Hard Drives

  98. Hammer? Magnet? DBAN? KID STUFF! by rueger · · Score: 1

    Go down to your local construction rental outfit and rent a big mo-fo STEAMROLLER!

    Couple of passes with that should do it.

    Then for added security, drop them into the forms just before they pour the concrete for a reactor containment vessel.

    1. Re:Hammer? Magnet? DBAN? KID STUFF! by cbiltcliffe · · Score: 1

      Then for added security, drop them into the forms just before they pour the concrete for a reactor containment vessel.

      Yeah, sure. Then the Monolith'll get all your pr0n....

      --
      "City hall" in German is "Rathaus" Kinda explains a few things......
  99. Fire by jbplou · · Score: 1

    Put the drives in a big pile with burnable trash and lighter fluid and let them burn at a high temperature. Only the very rich would be able to get data off them once the platters melt and since your cheap I doubt you have information worth the very expensive effort to recover.

  100. Feels so good by ToasterTester · · Score: 1

    Probably not the best way, but......

    I was in same situation with a stack or old drives and no way would I spend week runing DBAN on them. So life had been frustrating so I needed to vent a little. I got a small sledgehammer and started whacking away. Surprising the cases were tougher than I thought they'd be, but finally got them open and the platters out. Then bashed the platters till bentup good. I spread the fun out over a couple days but had a good time.

    Warning: sometime if you hit a drive a certain way they go flying so be careful.

  101. According to a previous "Ask" by 50000BTU_barbecue · · Score: 1

    All you need to do is store your family pictures on them. Hard drives are soooooooo fragile and unreliable. Yet everyone worries about how reliable they are when it's time to throw them out...

    --
    Mostly random stuff.
  102. Belt Sander by Osgeld · · Score: 1

    Open it up remove platters, put on gloves and a good dusk mask, though if your that worried about it you really should consider a different taste in porn

  103. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by ackthpt · · Score: 2

    The magnetic field patterns are on the surface of the platters. Sand the surface off(recommendation: do not breathe result.) and there is nothing to recover.

    Unless you have pretty cool secrets, though, nearly anything that prevents them from Just Working when plugged in is probably enough.

    As many are glass, just remove the screws, open and hit with a hammer. Don't forget your safety glasses!

    --

    A feeling of having made the same mistake before: Deja Foobar
  104. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Not true. A data recovery firm can look at the magnetic rings left on the disk and determine what the data was before the 0's were written to it.

    I have never seen any actual evidence of successfully recovered data using such a method. Not to mention, assuming it is possible, there is no way this process is cheap. Your data just is not anywhere close to that interesting.

    http://xkcd.com/538/ (read the mouseover)

  105. As Wikipedia likes to say by Sycraft-fu · · Score: 1

    [citation needed]

    Please provide a link to an article that shows how you can read data off a modern EPRML drive after is has been overwritten. Not something from years past for old MFM drivers, something for modern drives.

  106. Hurray Somebody who gets it! by Timmy+D+Programmer · · Score: 1

    Agreed, but I have argued with other professionals until I was blue in the face and they still do silly crap like smashing and soaking hard drives, rather than just BootAndNuke. I think it really is voodoo to some.

    --


    (If at first you don't succeed, do it different next time!)
  107. Speaker magnet FTW by thecounterweight · · Score: 1

    For some reason, my father loves collecting speakers. Giant, useless speakers. Inside large speakers are small but extremely powerful magnets. I ripped one out a few years ago and have been using it for my HDD-eraser ever since. 1) DOD the disk; overwrite with 0's 7 times. 2) Play with magnet on disk. Rub it all over, stick it to all the sides, move magnet around, etc. 3) Drink a beer.

  108. Re:Freeze Them! Good and Solid by jbplou · · Score: 1

    freezing a drive won't nessarly destroy the platter. You can sometimes recover data from a head crash by freezing the drive and then spinning it up because the head arm has shrunk from the cold pulling the head off the drive. also a data recovery company could recover a from just the platter even if the electronics in the drive are broken.

  109. Nuke'm from orbit by erice · · Score: 4, Funny

    It's the only way to be sure

    1. Re:Nuke'm from orbit by HyperDrive · · Score: 1

      It's the only way to be sure

      I came here for this! You never fail me, Slashdot... :)

    2. Re:Nuke'm from orbit by arisvega · · Score: 1

      Throw them into a neutron star, THEN nuke them from orbit.

      --
      The three laws of thermodynamics:(1) You can't win. (2) You can't break even. (3) You can't even quit.
  110. Burn the platters in a fire by fizzup · · Score: 1

    Disassemble the drive, take out the platters, put them in the fireplace. The platters have an aluminum substrate that will melt and then burn. The remaining magnetic media that was on the surface will crumble in your hands, and has been heated well past the Curie point.

    1. Re:Burn the platters in a fire by Osgeld · · Score: 1

      just make sure its well ventilated as aluminum will produce toxic gas as it burns

  111. Re:Put them all in a box and store them indefinite by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 1

    An, the "Nuclear Waste" option. Then sell them on e-Bay 40 years later to some idiot collector!

    --
    -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
  112. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 4, Interesting

    http://hostjury.com/blog/view/195/the-great-zero-challenge-remains-unaccepted
    http://www.anti-forensics.com/disk-wiping-one-pass-is-enough-part-2-this-time-with-screenshots
    (Key quotes: Secure Deletion of Data from Magnetic and Solid-State Memory by Peter Gutmann (35 pass wipe originated from Mr. Gutmann)

    âoeAny modern drive will most likely be a hopeless task, what with ultra-high densities and use of perpendicular recording I donâ(TM)t see how MFM would even get a usable image, and then the use of EPRML will mean that even if you could magically transfer some sort of image into a file, the ability to decode that to recover the original data would be quite challenging.â)
    (Article itself) http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut001/pubs/secure_del.html

  113. On your own? Sure. In business? No! by SexyKellyOsbourne · · Score: 2, Insightful

    If you're destroying drives on your own, go for it. But in any kind of business, even if you don't have some old motherboard with an IDE connector, it's worth spending the $20 on an adapter or card to just DBAN those crappy old drives.

    Why? Solely to prevent someone from injuring themselves while destroying old hard drives with a drill, which is bad in itself. It's worse when they bill the company for the ER visit because a spark gets in their eye. It gets even worse when they go on perfectly collectible workers comp and settle a lawsuit because they weren't given safety goggles when they did so.

    Or, more realistically, some manager or person in HR from chewing you out for an hour and writing you up just because they think that way, and you allowed it to happen. And even that will probably not happen, but do always CYA just in case.

    1. Re:On your own? Sure. In business? No! by couchslug · · Score: 1

      ENOUGH wth the drill bullshit and messy high-effort drive destruction methods.

      I have all the options from 570 amp stick welder to shotgun. I use a hammer.

      Just wear a face shield or safety glasses and give 'em a HARD whack with a large hammer to drive the case into the platters. They stay contained. the case is visibly deformed, problem solved.

      --
      "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
    2. Re:On your own? Sure. In business? No! by avandesande · · Score: 2

      Zeroing a hard drive takes a LONG time. If you have more than a handful sending them through a recycler's shredder is probably more cost effective.

      --
      love is just extroverted narcissism
    3. Re:On your own? Sure. In business? No! by plover · · Score: 1

      If you're destroying drives on your own, go for it. But in any kind of business, even if you don't have some old motherboard with an IDE connector, it's worth spending the $20 on an adapter or card to just DBAN those crappy old drives.

      Why? Solely to prevent someone from injuring themselves while destroying old hard drives with a drill, which is bad in itself. It's worse when they bill the company for the ER visit because a spark gets in their eye. It gets even worse when they go on perfectly collectible workers comp and settle a lawsuit because they weren't given safety goggles when they did so.

      Absolutely not. If you're in business, what you need most is solid evidence that your data is destroyed.

      You can hand a laborer a hammer and punch, safety glasses, and a pair of gloves, and say "here is a pallet of disks: hammer the punch in here until you see this metal down here bulge out. Repeat until this pallet is empty." You say to his supervisor, "We have given him a pallet containing 327 hard drives to destroy. Here is a clipboard with their serial numbers. Check each drive to make sure the damage shows a hole here and a bulge in this spot, then tick this box for each destroyed drive. Once every drive is properly damaged, sign this form attesting to the destruction, then ship the pallet to this recycling center. Your task is finished when every drive is destroyed and accounted for, you've signed the form, and the pallet is on the truck."

      You can't easily look at a disk and see if it contains sensitive data or not. You can't easily look at a disk and see if it's wiped. You can pick up a disk from the not-wiped pile and place it in the wiped pile, and nobody will notice. You can make a mistake that ships your company's sensitive data off to some eBay buyer. But you can very easily look at a chunk of metal and assure yourself it's properly damaged. You won't set the damaged disk in the wrong pile. You can't pass off an undamaged disk as a damaged disk. And nobody can accidentally recover the data from a properly damaged disk.

      And the reason this is important is simple economics. If you're reselling the disks for $10 bucks each, the most you could make is $3270. If you failed to wipe out the wrong disk, you might be putting your customers credit card or social security numbers or drivers' licenses out into the wild. The repercussions from such a mistake can easily run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of credit repairs and lawsuits. If you're destroying the disks, you will spend a few dollars destroying them and trucking them to the recycling center, but about the most risk you take on is the guy could injure himself.

      --
      John
  114. Re:Thermite. by Z00L00K · · Score: 1

    Dynamite is just as fun!

    Concentrated Nitric Acid will also take care of a lot of stuff in interesting ways. Just don't breathe the fumes.

    --
    If builders built buildings the way programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker would destroy civilization.
  115. Drill + Thermite by blackC0pter · · Score: 1

    Drill + Thermite. Lots of smoke but no more hard drive.

  116. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by thatskinnyguy · · Score: 1

    It's not a matter of whether or not it's recoverable. It's all about making it unfeasible to recover the data - by mechanical means or financially. Then again, the original poster of this article sounds like a regular everyday jackoff that is a bit paranoid about his own decade-old information. Just removing the platters would be sufficient in that case. Turn them into a piece of artwork or something.

    --
    The game.
  117. Dissolve the metal off the platters in acid by qzjul · · Score: 1

    Dissolve the metal off the platters in concentrated sulphuric acid.

  118. Lack of imagination. by thegarbz · · Score: 1

    Really this is a case of slow news day combined with lack of imagination.

    Heck even the unimaginative could type this question into google and see that it has been asked on every other forum on the internet several times. PC Pro even has a Top 10

    In summary:
    1. Hammer
    2. Angle Grinder.
    3. Welder
    4. Weapon.
    5. Magnets
    6. Drill
    7. Melt them
    8. Log splitter
    9. Industrial shredder.
    10 Thermite.

    11. Get the hell of slashdot. This is "news for nerds", not "I'm bored and braindead someone help me".

    1. Re:Lack of imagination. by teknosapien · · Score: 1

      did you mean "off"

      --
      no matter how good it is, it is human nature always wants to make things better
  119. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by 1u3hr · · Score: 2

    old hard drives that are too small to be worth someone's time reusing (really who needs a 20 gig hard drive)

    He said some were SATA; I really doubt any SATA drives would be that small. It's just machismo: "My data is so evil and important that the NSA would spend a million dollars to recover it so I have to reduce the disc to constituent atoms".

    Bollocks. Just write zeroes over it and you are safe in the real world. CSI and 24 notwithstanding.

  120. The sure fire way by chucklebutte · · Score: 1

    is to toss it in to the area where the event horizon is located when an artificial worm hole is created. Make sure to do it a few seconds before establishing said worm hole, the hard drive will be vaporized instantly!

  121. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by bzipitidoo · · Score: 2

    What I find funny is the contradiction. When you want to make data unrecoverable, you have to do some serious abuse. Drilling a hole might not be enough! But when a hard drive begins to fail, somehow that same data is so delicate that any mistake, or no mistake, will lose it all, no recovery possible.

    --
    Intellectual Property is a monopolistic, selfish, and defective concept. It is "tyranny over the mind of man"
  122. Re:The 9/11 WTC hard drives by yobert · · Score: 1

    A news clip of the data recovery show what can be done with cash, time and skills. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R3QgmWstJA 1:18 mins in shows what arrived, gets cleaned and data thought/hoped lost is been recovered.

    Those drives weren't written with zeros-- only physically damaged =) Also it looked like each platter was relatively intact.

  123. Let Nature do the work by richardtallent · · Score: 1

    The next time you do some deep-sea fishing, just drop 'em overboard.

    Hey, it works for Dexter!

    It should keep your super-secret h@x0r stuff safe from prying eyes for a few million years... and then our descendants can find it as a fossil and marvel at your pr0n collection.

  124. Re:Cheap... by SigNuZX728 · · Score: 1

    I'm kinda curious to see what would happen if you pulled out the platters and put them in a microwave oven.

  125. Let kids at it by kevink707 · · Score: 1

    I took one to my ex-wife's 5th grade class. Gave them screwdrivers, etc and let them take it apart to them see what was inside. Once they were done with them I'm sure nothing was recoverable.

  126. there have been recoveries by dutchwhizzman · · Score: 2

    There was, but that was in the times that the air was clean and sex was dirty. A large capacity drive was 20MB and comprised of 4 platters in a 5.25" enclosure, double the size of a CD-ROM drive.

    The original question stated no connecting the drives up to a computer was possible, since the owner didn't own anything that still had the required connectors/controllers to do so. Zeroing out isn't an option within the constraints given.

    --
    I was promised a flying car. Where is my flying car?
  127. Windows 7 by superflit · · Score: 1

    Windows 7 will surely do..

  128. I actually take my drives to the local scrap yard by teknosapien · · Score: 1

    the one with the large electromagnet slip the person running the crane a $20.00 and instant erasure
    beyond that - I'm not to concerned about the residual data that someone "maybe" able to recover from them - if someone really wants my data there are a lot of simpler ways of gathering it than reconstructing a hard drive that has been scrambled by a very large electromagnetic field

    --
    no matter how good it is, it is human nature always wants to make things better
  129. 7.62x54R or .30-06, multiple times. by Anonymous+Freak · · Score: 1

    Plus it's very satisfying to do...

    --
    Another non-functioning site was "uncertainty.microsoft.com."
    The purpose of that site was not known.
    1. Re:7.62x54R or .30-06, multiple times. by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      Mosin-Nagant, SVT-40, Dragunov, or ROMAK-3?

      --
      Time to offend someone
    2. Re:7.62x54R or .30-06, multiple times. by Anonymous+Freak · · Score: 1

      Mosin-Nagant in my case.

      Found out years ago that the big bulky early 10K RPM SCSI drives have such a tough casing that 9mm barely dents it, and .45 barely puts a hole in the top case. 7.62x54R? Shatters the platters, baby.

      --
      Another non-functioning site was "uncertainty.microsoft.com."
      The purpose of that site was not known.
    3. Re:7.62x54R or .30-06, multiple times. by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      I have never shattered a platter (Maybe I just haven't shot the right kind of drive) but my M91/30 makes some big exit holes with the 203gr. soft points I use. Great inexpensive gun that has taken some nice game and won me a number of bets.

      --
      Time to offend someone
  130. Microwave by Zaldarr · · Score: 1

    I personally use a microwave. Fries the damn thing into oblivion. Fun too. CDs are also very pretty!

    --
    I write professional videogame reviews! http://www.digitallydownloaded.net/
    1. Re:Microwave by Arancaytar · · Score: 1

      ... this will work on CDs, but all the microwaves I know will be destroyed by large metallic objects like HDDs.

    2. Re:Microwave by Zaldarr · · Score: 1

      I must have a crazy microwave then... the only metal I've found that affects it is foil.

      --
      I write professional videogame reviews! http://www.digitallydownloaded.net/
  131. HD death at 1200/2950 fps by Phydeaux · · Score: 1

    Best way is a supersonic projectile, usually 9mm or larger in handgun calibers, 5.56mm or larger in long gun calibers. While JHP flatten out on the case and usually don't puncture the shell and the platters (they're much better for soft tissue), most FMJ work great as they pierce the case and generally shatter the drives as well. It's also cost effective- as little as $.10/drive for destruction!

  132. what I do! by dogganos · · Score: 1

    I regularly have to get rid of disks of my firm with clients backups etc. I just remove very easily the electronic circuit on the back and then during the cold days of winter I put the disks in my fireplace. I don't know the exact temperature there, but next morning all there is is the outer casing and an aluminum maze in the ash bin. I guess, that does the trick.

  133. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by LynnwoodRooster · · Score: 1

    In five minutes you'll be able to smash about two of them. Smashing hard drives isn't easy.

    Huh - seems to take but 3 seconds to heft up the 20 pound splitting maul and bring it down with sufficient force to turn the drive into lots of small bits...

    --
    Browsing at +1 - no ACs, I ignore their posts. So refreshing!
  134. Re:Drill a hole through it by cheater512 · · Score: 1

    If the recovery company spins the heads slowly over a stationary platter, that isn't viable.

  135. easy by smash · · Score: 1

    Just get me to store my media collection on it. the drive will fail in due course.

    --
    I run: Windows, OS X, Linux, FreeBSD. Just because you have a hammer, doesn't mean everything is a nail.
  136. Cheap and effective by fnord242 · · Score: 1

    Use a sledgehammer

  137. Bolt Cutters by Scared+Rabbit · · Score: 1

    You can cut a drive in half with very little effort.

  138. Block Splitter by deniable · · Score: 1

    I have one I no longer use for firewood. A few swings and the drive isn't going to be readable. The platters are bent, scratched and have very wide cuts through them. The PCB isn't whole either.

  139. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by edmudama · · Score: 2

    The above is the easiest way to do it.

    Just open it up with a torx wrench, and sand the platters by hand with some 60 grit paper until they're not shiny. The magnetic dipoles only goes a few tens of nanometers deep on the surface of the platter.

    --
    More data, damnit!
  140. Disk destruction != data destruction by Arancaytar · · Score: 1

    As long as the disks are still readable by normal means, it is far easier to reliably destroy the data via software than render the drive physically unrecoverable. Wipe the drive, then write random data to it a few times in a row. It is incredibly unlikely for any sector on the disk to contain coherent data after that - perhaps not entirely impossible, but certainly more reliable than smashing the drive with a hammer and hoping for the best.
    If you want to destroy the drive out of paranoia (or because it is already damaged and not usable), take it carefully apart, take out the controller board and destroy it (particularly the memory chip), then take the platters, and sand off the surfaces.

    Keep in mind that random physical destruction, even methods with apparent spectacular results like shotguns and hammers, will not reliably prevent a forensic laboratory from recovering data. You'll have to carefully and deliberately expose and destroy the parts of the drive that contain the data.

    1. Re:Disk destruction != data destruction by Arlet · · Score: 1

      Keep in mind that random physical destruction, even methods with apparent spectacular results like shotguns and hammers, will not reliably prevent a forensic laboratory from recovering data

      Of course, forensic laboratories are not going to be interested in recovering some random old drive they found in the dumpster that appears to be all bashed up with a hammer.

  141. incinerate by kubitus · · Score: 1
    we go to the incinerating plant near us.

    the person responsible for the destruction of the data remains with the batch of HD until they were turned into Emerald dust ( Al2O3)

    Highly cost effective!

  142. Liquid Nitrogen by NtwoO · · Score: 1

    Take out the platters. Cool them in liquid nitrogen and shatter them with a hammer. That aught to get the pieces nice and small. Watch out for the shards, though! They'll bem mighty sharp.

    --
    ! /* */
  143. Band saw by sillivalley · · Score: 1

    Band saw with a metal blade -- goes through case, platters, circuit boards. A one to two inch cut should be good, but if you want to be sure, slice off a corner.

    A nice thing about using a band saw is you can do a bunch of drives in rapid succession.

    Not as satisfying as using a 12-gauge or a 9mm, but still satisfying.

  144. mr hard drive, meet mr hammer by johnrpenner · · Score: 1

    one good clunk oughta do it - anything that dents the platters.

    2cents from rainy toronto

    1. Re:mr hard drive, meet mr hammer by DaveV1.0 · · Score: 1

      Hate to break it to you, but you are wrong. There is a data recovery company that set up a floating head system that will read dented or warped platters. Apparently, it was fairly easy to do.

      --
      There is no "-1 offended" or "-1 you don't agree with me" mod options for a reason.
  145. Open it up, and smacky smack the glass. by dmomo · · Score: 1

    Take a few seconds to unscrew it, crack the glass disc. Data is gone. If someone wants that data bad enough to get at it... you're in a bit too much trouble to be on slashdot right now.

  146. Wrong! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    The truth is that it comes down to COST. It is a bit like encryption, in that it is all about TIME and COST to brute force it. So how important your data might be to somebody is the real factor here. For 99.9% of threats you simply break the circuit board or remove it. 1 bad chip, cap, or resistor would stop these people from using the drive completely. Have you ever tried to get a drive working with a defective circuit board??? I have and it is not easy because most times revisions break compatibility so you'd have to find the exact same board; possibly even the same exact revision. The older the drive the trickier (but cheaper) finding a board gets.

    Old drives leave trace data that a zero wipe will not stop and with the right gear it can be recovered. Private corps don't disclose all their tricks, researchers publish most the techniques they think of, the FBI won't get past the techniques you can find out about or they can hire out; while military or other gov have access to more cutting edge techniques. Ever hear of a low level format?? well, that places plenty of gaps on the drive-- you know the drive heads just don't calculate their position on the platter, the platters are encoded with position information. Anyhow, the older the drive the more gap space there is for one to process the noise and extract past recordings-- the newer drives are so advanced they are approaching magnetic "atomic" microscopes (note: I said "approaching,")

    An FBI or private firm may have a drive head scanning microscope (using drive tech to cheaply make fast and effective drive scanners) but this will not be cheap to use; also, if you do an IDE zero wipe (if supported) the firmware level wipe will be low level and cover just about the whole surface making it safe. The other gov with more resources and time can probably go a little further... but not all that much for huge cost increases. In theory, a higher resolution reading device can pick up noise 'echos' in the material just as they can recover audio from tape a few times back- somebody dealing in this realm is not you and the cost and expertese must be crazy and on newer drives (possibly everything in the last decade) those techniques may not be feasible at all (but govs worry because unless it is proven somebody might have found a way.)

    Poking holes in the platters will stop people willing to drop $1000+ to recover it. For more they can get partial data from segments of it but its not likely going to be all that useful (could be, this is where file fragmentation can cause big troubles.) Holes or shattered platters will make pretty much every reading device really labor intensive and expensive to use.

    It is true that gov level wipe algs are pointless because that technique was devised for older drives with different kinds of encoding and also include techniques for floppies -- so doing the 35? pass is actually stupid because it covers a whole range of situations, no device needing them all. Canada for example, their gov lowered it down to 3 pass I think last time I looked.... like 10 years ago I think. a 1 pass is likely enough except for gov. high level gov mandates incineration as a blanket policy.

    I say bust a chip; or remove the boards. that is plenty. if paranoid; then damage the platters (or the actuator arm... or a clever person would run a car battery into a few key points to kill the heads or motor in a few seconds.)

    FYI: I have an expert level knowledge in this area.

    1. Re:Wrong! by dakohli · · Score: 1

      Canada for example, their gov lowered it down to 3 pass I think last time I looked.... like 10 years ago I think.

      This is only part of the policy. Discs which are Unclass, Protected A or B or Confidential can be dealt with this way. Disks that are more highly classified (Protected C, Secret or Top Secret) must be shredded/disintegrated afterwards,

      This may be the current document detailing the current policy.

    2. Re:Wrong! by cbiltcliffe · · Score: 1

      or a clever person would run a car battery into a few key points to kill the heads or motor in a few seconds.)

      FYI: I have an expert level knowledge in this area.

      "An expert level of knowledge in this area" would imply that you know that head and spindle motors run on 12 volt, which is exactly what a car battery voltage is. So basically, this would not damage the motor circuitry. If you apply power that bypasses the speed regulator, it might cause such a high RPM that the platters would shatter, or stretch, still making it unreadable, but it shouldn't damage the electrics at all.

      --
      "City hall" in German is "Rathaus" Kinda explains a few things......
  147. Slow dd by jones_supa · · Score: 1

    If I remember correctly, the classic dd command with bs=512 always takes much longer than a single-pass zero wipe with DBAN. Can someone explain, why? It feels like the HD is seeking all the time when using dd.

  148. A Microsoft solution by NotPeteMcCabe · · Score: 1

    Encode the data on the drives in Playsforsure format. That will render it unreadable.

  149. Rail gun by Kuruk · · Score: 1

    Launch it into the sun.

  150. guaranteed success.. by Anarchduke · · Score: 1

    first, get a hold of a tactical nuclear weapon...

    --
    who prays for Satan? Who in 18 centuries has had the humanity to pray for the 1 sinner that needed it most? ~Mark Twain
  151. Wear protection by sdh · · Score: 1

    i disassembled my old drives and saved the platters and the superstrong magnets. The platters look like steel so I thought maybe I'll just bend them in half and make it not worth anybody's time to try reading them. Platters don't bend - they shatter into a million slivers of something that initially just embed themselves in your hands. For weeks you'll be finding fragments in the carpet 20 feet from the original impact zone.

    So wear protection (esp. eyes) and do it somewhere you can cleanup easily. Sound advice for many activities.

  152. Take it to the experts by guttentag · · Score: 1
    1. 1. Get a sharpie (black or red)
    2. 2. Write "18 1/2 minute gap" on the outside of each hard drive
    3. 3. Mail to Richard Nixon Presidential Library, 18001 Yorba Linda Blvd, Yorba Linda, CA
    4. 4. No one will ever see your data again

    Works like a charm for me every time.

  153. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by jsse · · Score: 1

    Go do some googling, a simple ONE PASS of 0's on the disk WILL make the data absoloutely, without question unrecoverable, anyone who tells you otherwise is in to voodoo and black magic or trying to make some profit.

    There are really some voodoo and black magic that can recover data if you erase disk that way. Last time my colleague has to pay ~US$600 on his own accord to recover data on a harddisk he accidentally overwrote with a ghost image. We didn't call for rocket scientists's help, just paid a specialist and the data was back.

    Also, you would like to be aware of the fault-tolerant design of modern harddisk that might replicate data in hidden storage, which might be up to 15% of the published space.

    So, erase 7 times with patterns, degauss, or even physical destroy is really necessary for erasing sensitive data.

  154. Re:How we do it in the bush / desert / veld by droopus · · Score: 1

    Magnets? Incantations? Sand?

    Dude. You know what a splitting maul is? It's a combination sledge/axe that splits logs.

    1) Place drive on log

    2) Apply high velocity force vectored through the head of said splitting maul in a 180 degree path.

    3) Pick up halves and repeat step 2 if desired.

    4) Drop quarters off the end of the dock into LI Sound.

    Why get all complicated?

    --
    "The pie shall be cut in half and each man shall receive.....death. I'll eat the pie."
  155. Dupe by Knuckles · · Score: 1

    I think I've seen this particular Ask Slashdot question 5 times before. Editors.

    --
    "When I first heard Daydream Nation it quite frankly scared the living shit out of me." -- Matthew Stearns
  156. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by narcc · · Score: 1

    Just removing the platters would be sufficient in that case.

    Even that's overkill. All he needs to do is toss them in the trash.

    It's extraordinarily unlikely that they'll be found afterward -- and even less likely that anyone would who did find them would do more than giggle at his collection of Japanese tentacle porn for a few minutes before formatting the drive.

    Of course, this submitter is clearly insane so the drives are likely already formatted. In that case, his precious secrets (like that evite from his mom about his grandmothers 80th birthday party) would still be perfectly safe. Honestly, who's going to spend the time/money to recover data from a drive they found in some residential trash?

  157. Re:Freeze Them! Good and Solid by mattventura · · Score: 1

    After filling it with water it's a different story. Although OP is wrong about the electronics. Water, in general, won't do much to powered-off electronics as long as they are sufficiently dried before being turned back on.

  158. Nuke it from orbit! by Yev000 · · Score: 1

    ... It's the only way to be sure...

  159. ferric chloride by jcfandino · · Score: 1

    submerge the platters in ferric chloride.
    you find it in electronic components stores

  160. BBQ by pbjones · · Score: 1

    A really hot BBQ, when the alloy melts then they are done, serve hot, with chips.

    --
    There was an unknown error in the submission.
  161. Will it blend? by jcfandino · · Score: 1

    don't smell this

  162. One word: by B1oodAnge1 · · Score: 1

    Thermite.

    --
    RUGBYRUGBYRUGBY
  163. Throw them in the bin. by Gordonjcp · · Score: 1

    Or, into the e-waste recycling bin at your recycling centre, where they will most likely end up in landfill anyway.

    Nobody cares about your data. You are not interesting.

  164. Re:Overkill... by Gordonjcp · · Score: 1

    If you zero out a drive, no-one can ever recover the data. It's gone, forever. No trace of it is left.

    No, the NSA doesn't have some big magic machine that can miraculously recover the data from the edges of the tracks, or whatever. It's gone.

    Any hard disk drive made in the past 15 years no longer uses MFM, but something more like QAM to record data on the disk. Thus, the bits are stored as many different levels and phases. The idea of being able to guess what a bit was by the remaining magnetic field works for stuff that we used in the 1980s, nothing newer.

  165. Soldiers in the Army of Chaos... by Tablizer · · Score: 1

    Give it to a toddler. Nothing survives toddlers.

  166. Doesn't work as well as you think by artor3 · · Score: 3, Informative

    It doesn't work as well as you'd think - believe me, I've tried. What tends to happen is the thermite melts a small hole through the drive, and all drains to the bottom, where it burns a hole in the container and continues further down away from the drive. Even if you use a suitable container (for example, a bucket full of sand), it's difficult to get the whole drive to melt, and there's no way to know if the surviving platters got anywhere near their Curie point. Plus it's a pain in the ass to get the thermite to ignite, and the resulting thick black smoke may very well have your neighbors calling the fire department.

    In the end, it's much simpler and less frustrating to simply smash the thing to pieces with a sledge hammer. Thermite for its own sake is fun and (kinda) educational - it's just not a good tool for this job. If you're really paranoid, do a single pass of zeros (or ones, if you prefer) before breaking out the hammer, but it probably isn't necessary. Unless the FBI's hunting you, no one's gonna put in the effort to recover data off a smashed platter.

    1. Re:Doesn't work as well as you think by queazocotal · · Score: 1

      ETOOLITTLETHERMITE

    2. Re:Doesn't work as well as you think by Dachannien · · Score: 1

      This is also why you don't hire xenomorphs to resolve your data disposal needs.

    3. Re:Doesn't work as well as you think by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      How about a rifle round or two through the drive? Fairly cheap, and a lot easier than thermite.

  167. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by wvmarle · · Score: 1

    From a security aspect there is a good reason to physically destroy: it is visible from the outside. The difference between a working drive and one that's been hammered on or sawed in two is quite clear, no need to hook it up to a computer to check whether it's been wiped or not. And when it comes to high-security facilities where it's generally not allowed to take out any storage device, so to take it out you have to make sure it's not a hard disk any more, but a lump of metal scrap.

    That said for personal use zero'ing the drive indeed will do the job well enough. And preserves the drive for potential future use.

  168. Disassembly by Deuxsonic · · Score: 1

    If you're like me and enjoy taking stuff apart, you can do what I do and just disassemble the drive, bend up the platters, and then throw everything away (and keep the screws, one can never have enough types of screws for various projects.) If it has multiple platters, then actually just taking the platters out makes them unusable as the platters are in a very precise alignment that's set at the factory that is screwed up and impossible to undo when the platters are taken out.

    --
    If you can talk brilliantly enough about a problem, it can create the consoling illusion that it has been mastered.
  169. Bankers! by BagOCrap · · Score: 3, Funny

    I just give my old hdd's to Icelandic bankers. You wouldn't believe how adept at destroying all kinds of evidence they've become.

    --
    -- Chaos, panic, pandemonium... My job here is done!
  170. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by Patch86 · · Score: 2

    It depends who you're trying to hide your data from. When I bin a hard drive, I'm only worried about two-bit scam artists going through my trash and finding some meet for identity theft, maybe manage to skim a credit card number, They'll be more than thwarted by bashing the thing with a hammer a couple of times until the plates rattle and the connector is mashed out of shape.

    It might not protect me from the full might of the world's intelligence services- but they're not exactly a main concern of mine.

  171. Re:A whole $40 prize, and no contestants? by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

        Ya, it was here

        His prize wasn't worth the time of any data recovery company. Anyone can put a challenge like that up. It doesn't mean anyone will take it seriously. The only thing it proved was that data recovery companies aren't idiots. :)

    --
    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  172. A big shock wave also does that by dbIII · · Score: 2

    A shock wave passing through the material causes enough local heating (and a lowering due to pressure) to pass the curie point (there's papers about that happening in iron powder composites) - but a shock wave that big is most likely going to come from the sort of impact that would shatter the glass platters anyway.
    It's glass in those drives. A big drop onto a hard surface is probably all you need instead of ovens and explosives.

    1. Re:A big shock wave also does that by Jarik+C-Bol · · Score: 1

      why is there never a -1 wrong moderation?
      the platters of a hard drive are NOT glass.

      --
      I've decided to Diversify my Holdings. I've divided my cash between my left and right pockets, instead of all in one.
    2. Re:A big shock wave also does that by BlueStrat · · Score: 2

      A shock wave passing through the material causes enough local heating (and a lowering due to pressure) to pass the curie point (there's papers about that happening in iron powder composites) - but a shock wave that big is most likely going to come from the sort of impact that would shatter the glass platters anyway.
      It's glass in those drives. A big drop onto a hard surface is probably all you need instead of ovens and explosives.

      For practicality, I like the kind of HDD-destroying "shock wave" produced by putting a number of 3/4-inch holes clean through the drive in the platter area with a drill press.

      Several good whacks with a 10-pound sledgehammer to top it off, and whoever wants to recover anything useable/useful off of that particular drive had better have some mad skills, low expectations, and a long time to spend doing it!

      Besides, if there are people willing to try recovering data from a drive of yours after such measures, you're most likely already hiding in some hole in Lower Bumfukistan to avoid a drone strike.

      Strat

      --
      Progressivism (aka US 'Liberalism'): Ideas so good they need a police/surveillance-state to enforce.
    3. Re:A big shock wave also does that by ZeroExistenZ · · Score: 1

      Why not a selfproduced shock, just enough to scatter the platters? this was once on slashdot.

      --
      I think we can keep recursing like this until someone returns 1
    4. Re:A big shock wave also does that by mlts · · Score: 1

      Nail, head hit. Yes, it is fun to talk about turning a HDD into component quarks, but realistically, running DBAN, then HDDErase (which does a low level ATA wipe), followed up by drilling some holes in the case is realistically good enough. If one fears more than that, there is always a bonfire or even an oven on a self cleaning cycle.

      This economy, doing the job cheaply is what is needed.

    5. Re:A big shock wave also does that by Wyatt+Earp · · Score: 1

      Too much work.

      Take the drives apart, smash the platters with a hammer.

    6. Re:A big shock wave also does that by mlts · · Score: 1

      True. I like doing it at multiple levels.

      This way, if someone does want to spend the expense in wanting to piece together data from a drive, they not just have to physically reconstruct it, but try to deal with zeroed out sectors as well. Of course, smashing the platters with a hammer is a thorough method, but if one has a lot of drives to get rid of, going at them with a drill bit is likely the quickest (and cleanest) method.

      I also have seen machines that use a hydraulic press to drive either a wedge, bending the drive in a V shape, or a cone, bending the spindle area. Those are good for rendering a drive inoperable, but still in one piece for easy disposal, but may cost a pretty penny.

    7. Re:A big shock wave also does that by Wyatt+Earp · · Score: 1

      Personally, if I've had a bad week, I get some drivers, open the case, take it apart, get some magnets out, drop the platters in the trash (if they are glass) and drop a hammer on them. Otherwise I go out and beat the crap out of the platters.

    8. Re:A big shock wave also does that by dbIII · · Score: 1

      If you've got a 200 tonne press you find a lot of things for it to do :)
      Since the magnetic stuff is an iron oxide of some kind citric acid (or phosphoric as in Coca Cola) should do some damage. The following should work:
      Take the juice of three lemons and about a glass and a half of vodka or tequila, or if you prefer, use Rum and Coke instead. Mix, then carefully pour at intervals into your mouth. Then take a hammer and beat the crap out of the drive casings until you get bored.
      Alternatively you could pour the stuff (with or without alchohol) into the drives but a few shocks on the outside will do horrible things to glass platters (and not much good to the others).

  173. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by StarKiller53861 · · Score: 1

    You don't seem to realise that just because you don't store sensitive information on your hard-drive, doesn't mean that other people don't. Imagine some punk finding an old hard-drive with the XYZ-expensive-product source or credit/debit card info on it in the trash.

    Also, he said, "I could use a degausser, but they are prohibitively expensive." (Quick Google search reveals $500 plus international shipping if you don't line in America.)

  174. Re:Drill Press by RichiH · · Score: 1

    The point is that the platters get bent.

  175. Hammer and chisel by SlightOverdose · · Score: 1

    I had to do this a while back with a stack of old drives. I ended up just smashing the circuit board and breaking off the connector pins.

    This of course will only stop a casual attacker. I'm not so concerned about the government recovering the platters and accessing my tax documents, mostly because they already have a copy.

    By now I suspect they are buried in a tip somewhere, ready to be dug up in 2000 years by an archaeologist trying to infer information about the period in history where everything was lost in the terrorist EMP attack of 2150.

  176. Old slashdot question by irp · · Score: 1

    This seems to be an old, but reoccurring, question to slashdot! The only thing changing is apparently the AGE of the drives. I predict the next who ask will have a bunch of 15-20 year old drives... :-)

  177. Actually useful advice here by RichiH · · Score: 2

    I am going to be boring and tell you what I learned from the founder of a data recovery company.

    1) One single pass of zeros is enough. urandom if you want to be paranoid.
    2) If you want, or need (auditing, etc), to physically destroy the drives: Bend the platters. As soon as the platters are bent, you can not spin them for data extraction, any more. Keeping in mind the distance between head and platters, even the slightest bend becomes irreparable. And as soon as you can't spin them, you are looking at scanning the whole platter without any fancy off-the-shelf controller logic.

    According to him, those are the only two cases when they tell the customer over the phone that they don't even have to bother sending the disks in.

  178. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Trogre · · Score: 1

    I agree that there's likely nothing that can recover a modern (12 years old) hard drive that has been over-written with zeroes. However magnetic imaging may improve in the future and microscopic alignment differences may become detectable in the future.

    For that reason I recommend dd-ing /dev/frandom a couple of times (/dev/urandom is too slow and /dev/random isn't worth mentioning for a 2TB drive). If only it was included in mainstream kernels.

    If the drive is sufficiently damaged that the wiping can't take place in a reasonable amount of time, then it's Hammer Time.

    --
    "Nine times out of ten, starting a fire is not the best way to solve the problem." - my wife
  179. cat /dev/urandom /dev/hda by eviljav · · Score: 1

    cat /dev/urandom > /dev/hda
    is enough.

  180. Throw them in the trash by Leo+Sasquatch · · Score: 1

    and get over yourself. Nobody gives a shit about the contents of your old hard drives. Nobody.

  181. Of course now the FBI is interested in you ... by itsybitsy · · Score: 1

    Of course now the FBI is interested in you ... as a result of your posting this story on /.. Why do you want to destroy so many drives? What are you hiding and why are you hiding that data by destroying it so completely that no one can retrieve it?

    [;)]

  182. Most efficient way to destroy data on hard drives. by Dr_Barnowl · · Score: 1

    Use full disk encryption.

    When you need to destroy the data, erase enough of the drive to destroy the key blocks. Destroy any key backups.

    Et voila. You have destroyed the data (it's now just a random-looking byte stream that would take millions of years to decrypt), but left the hardware useful.

    Much faster than wiping the whole disk surface.

  183. Fastest way by Immigration.to.Canad · · Score: 1

    A hammer?

  184. depends by georgesdev · · Score: 1

    depends on the value of the data: - How much it would hurt you if someone had access to it - How much it would provide to someone accessing it. Personally, I just tear the disks open and break the read/write head On old disks I gained a very powerful magnet once or twice. But most times it's just a fun time with the kids. Show them how the head moves with electricity, etc ...

  185. Just fsckin' wrek 'em by Joce640k · · Score: 1

    No matter how many times this thread comes up the answer will always be the same:

    Every nerds dream is to invent new ways to wreck stuff: Just do it!

    Go in to 'Mythbusters' mode, take a look around the house and see what you've got that might wreck a disk drive.

    If you can be bothered to rip the metal plate off the back (yeah you could unscrew it but just grab some pliers and rip!) you'll find some REALLY strong magnets inside. They might be fun too!

    PS: No matter what you think, nobody's going to bother trying to forensically recover a hard disk in the trash. If it's even slightly physically damaged, that's good enough.

    --
    No sig today...
  186. Check out by bytesex · · Score: 1

    http://www.maxxeguard.com/

    This guy can make 1mm shreds of your disks. Hey, I'm in the high security thing.

    --
    Religion is what happens when nature strikes and groupthink goes wrong.
  187. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by EdZ · · Score: 1

    No need even to waste time with DBAN. Just throw an ATA_SECURE_ERASE command to the drive controller, then sit back and relax (assuming the drives were made in the last decade or so the controller will support this). Better then DBAN, in fact, as it will wipe sectors listen in the G-list.

  188. Hammer shot plus fire by aglider · · Score: 1

    I solve a lot of security and confidentiality issued with a sledgehammer.
    For anything else (or to complete the action) I use the fire.

    --
    Sent as ripples into the electromagnetic field. No single photon has been harmed in the process.
  189. it's hammer time by TheRealQuestor · · Score: 1

    seriously if you must know the hardware as well as the 0's and 1's on the platters are destroyed all you need is a simple, low tech, say it with me. HAMMER, doesn't even have to be that big. shatter the platters and its no more data

  190. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by JasterBobaMereel · · Score: 1

    A simple overwrite will erase the disk irrecoverably ...and this will be good enough for most people for most purposes

    But how do you guarantee that the drive has been completely overwritten, most modern OS's do not use the entire drive, do not erase files down to the drive, etc ... if you bypass the OS and do a low level erase that will work but most people do not have the time or knowledge to do this properly ... and old drive is often near to failure and the only way to be sure is make it unusable

    In secure environments they destroy drives deliberately so that no drive accidentally gets off site, security guys can see the difference between a physically destroyed drive and a working one, but cannot see the difference between a wiped drive and one full of data ....

    --
    Puteulanus fenestra mortis
  191. Re:cat /dev/urandom /dev/hda by cpghost · · Score: 2
    Speaking from experience, it is usually more than enough to overwrite the whole disk with random data. Even a single pass is usually enough to thwart any attempt at reconstruction.

    But, for the truly paranoid, you have to bypass or trick the controller to also overwrite the remapped bad sectors. That's not trivial a task, or, more precisely, it depends heavily on the controller's firmware and drive model.

    --
    cpghost at Cordula's Web.
  192. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by inglorion_on_the_net · · Score: 1

    A huge amount of these "security professionals" insist on trashing perfectly good hardware for no apparent reason, it's a complete was of good resources.

    Pick one:

    1. Spend a few minutes physically destroying perfectly good harddisk worth ~50 USD

    2. Spend some more of your time and a lot of computer time scrambling the bits, so that you can sell the disk at whatever people are willing to pay for a second hand harddisk

    3. Pass on the disk without making the sensitive data inaccessible, and risk huge damages

    I know what I'd do. Swallow the ~50 USD loss and sleep soundly at night.

    --
    Please correct me if I got my facts wrong.
  193. From past experience... by Peet42 · · Score: 2

    ...the best way to guarantee that a drive will immediately become permanently unreadable and unrecoverable is to put the only copy of some really important data on to it, and let nature do the rest. (What? Doesn't nature hate you too?)

  194. Re:Fire by mu22le · · Score: 1

    Fire, exactly!

    Just put them in an oven that can do more than 250C, and possibly reach 500C, the typical stability temperature of cobalt alloys, the material that usually make the ferromagnetic surface of hard disk platters. Bonus points if you can do 650C, then you will start melting the aluminum and approach the Curie temperature of cobalt alloys. There is physically no way to recover anything once you do that.

    Btw I don't know about microwaves, but that may be a nice (and fun) option too. Of course you'd need to dismantle the shielding first, but as someone has mentioned, that wouldn't take more than 10 minutes.

  195. WTF is on that drive? by Smidge204 · · Score: 1

    What the hell is on those drives that you're so paranoid about? If you have or work for a company or agency that deals with data that sensitive, you should be fired for not already knowing what to do with it. Otherwise you're being completely paranoid about it.

    Take it apart, salvage the awesome magnets and aluminum body for scrap (40 cents/lb or so but it'll add up after awhile) and just toss the platters if you don't want to make wind chimes out of them. If you don't want to make that effort, drive a nail through it and toss. Nobody is going to sift through your trash to get the platters and then spend the tens of thousands of dollars on data recovery services just to sift through your decade-old browser cookies.
    =Smidge=

    1. Re:WTF is on that drive? by DaveV1.0 · · Score: 1

      Probably Leisure Suit Larry and other embarrassing information.
       
      Oh, and don't toss the platters. Take them to the recycling center as well.

      --
      There is no "-1 offended" or "-1 you don't agree with me" mod options for a reason.
  196. Dexterize it. by bronney · · Score: 1

    If you live close to the sea, just dump the thing in seawater and forget about it. Nothing survives the sea.

    1. Re:Dexterize it. by elgeeko.com · · Score: 1

      You must have missed season two.

    2. Re:Dexterize it. by bronney · · Score: 1

      Hehehe. Nah the garbage bags blocks the feeding :)

  197. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Gaygirlie · · Score: 2

    There are really some voodoo and black magic that can recover data if you erase disk that way. Last time my colleague has to pay ~US$600 on his own accord to recover data on a harddisk he accidentally overwrote with a ghost image. We didn't call for rocket scientists's help, just paid a specialist and the data was back.

    Sounds more like that the data wasn't overwritten, the specialist just located the data on the disk and assembled it together. That's a whole lot different thing than trying to recover data that was overwritten and it sure as hell would cost a four-figure number, not ~$600.

    Also, you would like to be aware of the fault-tolerant design of modern harddisk that might replicate data in hidden storage, which might be up to 15% of the published space. So, erase 7 times with patterns, degauss, or even physical destroy is really necessary for erasing sensitive data.

    Not needed. A single ATA "secure erase" command is enough as that command also clears out remapped bad sectors and other areas only the drive itself can access.

  198. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Gaygirlie · · Score: 1

    2. Spend some more of your time and a lot of computer time scrambling the bits, so that you can sell the disk at whatever people are willing to pay for a second hand harddisk

    More like: hook the disk up to Linux box and issue ATA secure erase. Go watch movie, play games or whatever. (You can even use the same computer where the disk is doing the erase as it's the disk's own internal controller that does it so even using 100% CPU at all times on the machine wouldn't slow it down nor does the erase use CPU time at all.) Come back a few hours later and pick up the disk.

  199. Young relative by Le+Fol · · Score: 1

    Just shows once to your (young) nephew who is basically trustworthy how to get the very powerful magnet inside the drive. Switch nephew when he become tired to play with magnets. It worked for me for more than 30 drives so far.

  200. Pile driver by X10 · · Score: 1

    A pile driver. There's two ways to do it. You put the drive on top of the pile, or you put the drive underneath.

    --
    no, I don't have a sig
  201. Re:cat /dev/urandom /dev/hda by aglider · · Score: 1
    --
    Sent as ripples into the electromagnetic field. No single photon has been harmed in the process.
  202. but but... by HyperQuantum · · Score: 1

    don't you need a valid license for each drive then? :)

    --
    I am not really here right now.
  203. Angle grinder by AliasMarlowe · · Score: 3, Informative

    An angle grinder with any metal-cutting bit will slice clean through the platters and circuit boards, making a pretty shower of sparks. It's much more satisfying than just using a drill, and at least as effective as swinging a big hammer on them.
    BTW, remember that destroying hard drives could easily be construed as "willful destruction of evidence" if you're later accused of anything (terrorism, copyright violation, or other heinous crimes). So, whatever method you choose, it might be advisable to destroy them out of the public eye...

    --
    Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. - Voltaire
    1. Re:Angle grinder by Just+Brew+It! · · Score: 2

      Just be careful (wear your safety goggles), especially if you've got a drive with glass platters. Glass shards being flung by an angle grinder sound like they could be at least moderately hazardous...

  204. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by GPLHost-Thomas · · Score: 1

    What's so hard in doing: cat /dev/random >/dev/sda

    Please don't serve us the "normal people don't know" thing here: we're on /. and a normal guy wouldn't need to delete stuff this way. He would be running windows, in which case he would just delete the files, and fill the HDD with movies he downloads from $bittorrent-site or mp3 from his friends. A normal guy isn't MFM paranoiac.

  205. Video: BFG-50 vs 14 Hard Drives by Coolhand2120 · · Score: 1
  206. Amusing when "corrections" are wrong by dbIII · · Score: 3, Interesting

    The "wrong" moderation is not required because some are glass as you would have noticed if you've read about them or even better pulled some apart (and broken a platter or two - fracture surface looks like glass and is even transparent in the uncoated bits). They make good mirrors apart from the hole in the middle.
    A "not always right" mod may apply because not all of them are glass, but I never said they were but I suppose somebody attempting to read too much between the lines could assume I meant that with "It's glass in those drives". Maybe I should have written "a hell of a lot of drives have glass in them" but somebody that's never looked inside or read anything about their manufacture or never found some other way to get the merest fucking clue would probably still "correct" me before finding that even Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_platter) is a good enough source!
    What I don't know however is if it's haematite or magnetite on the surface of those platters since I've never stuck one under a microscope - anybody here know? It's obviously an oxide since fingerprints on the polished surface don't corrode and fingerprints on polished steel (and ferrite) corrode quickly enough that you can almost see it happening.

    1. Re:Amusing when "corrections" are wrong by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      They make good mirrors apart from the hole in the middle.

      Even with the hole, they are worth keeping for that purpose if you ever do mechanical work on your car. There are always bits that are hard to see or get at, and those platters are quite handy. I prefer the metal ones, since the glass platters can break into lots of sharp bits.

  207. Propeller clock by worf_mo · · Score: 1

    If you are not averse to tinkering with electronics and have a little spare time you could create a propeller clock. Or a slick 16-segment POV hard drive clock.

    Otherwise just drill a few holes through the drives (possibly through the platters).

  208. Buy a PATA USB box, put the drive into it by Colin+Smith · · Score: 1

    if you are paranoid, zero it, then format it with a file system and attach it to your laptop/PC for reuse.

    You keep the drive, you know it has been wiped and it is still useful.

    --
    Deleted
  209. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by slackbheep · · Score: 1

    Why are you spending $20 on a caddy for 160gig when a new 1tb is $70? At that point it sounds more like keeping old hardware around whether or not it's purposeful. I agree that it's not worth completely junking decent drives unless you're extremely paranoid, or have been using them to store pirated content That said with new replacements being so cheap I just can't justify the increased risk of failure if they're doing anything important. I trust the old hdds for my minecraft/mumble/irc server, but definitely not with my backups or the box I do my day to day work/play on.

  210. o_O by kanto · · Score: 1

    [Neo sees a black cat walk by them, and then a similar black cat walk by them just like the first one]
    Neo: Whoa. Déjà vu.
    [Everyone freezes right in their tracks]
    Trinity: What did you just say?
    Neo: Nothing. Just had a little déjà vu.
    Trinity: What did you see?
    Cypher: What happened?
    Neo: A black cat went past us, and then another that looked just like it.
    Trinity: How much like it? Was it the same cat?
    Neo: It might have been. I'm not sure.
    Morpheus: Switch! Apoc!
    Neo: What is it?
    Trinity: A déjà vu is usually a glitch in the Matrix. It happens when they change something.

  211. Reasons why by DragonHawk · · Score: 1

    I can't stand "security" people in business in general with this impulsive urge to physically destroy hard drives because of the data they stored.

    I suspect it's because of NSA/DOD, which has very specific rules for how to destroy data. NSA did studies 30+ years ago and found a simple overwrite wasn't always sufficient. (Keep in mind back then you could prolly read the data with iron filings and a magnifying glass, so magnetic remanence was rather more plausible than today.) And since 2007, overwrite hasn't been acceptable at all. It's degaussing or physical destruction only. Whether this is due to some special recovery technique, or just because hard disks are smart and people are dumb, only the NSA knows, and they aren't telling.

    But if you're not protecting classified national security information, it does seem rather likely to be overkill.

    --

    dragonhawk@iname.microsoft.com
    I do not like Microsoft. Remove them from my email address.
    1. Re:Reasons why by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      Since Giant MR it's been very hard to read overwritten blocks without probe microscopy ($$$) but since automatic block re-allocation it's been approximately impossible to overwrite all your blocks. SMART Secure Erase is supposed to, but Seagate, for one, will refuse to give you a list of which drives implement it. Even if you're a "Seagate Partner".

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  212. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Shoe+Puppet · · Score: 3

    Why are you spending $20 on a caddy for 160gig when a new 1tb is $70?

    Because you don't actually need more than 160GB and it saves you $50?

    --
    (+1, Disagree)
  213. If time is not an issue by DaveV1.0 · · Score: 1

    Disassemble the drives then take the platters and housing down to your local metal recycling center. Destroyed drives AND some pocket cash.

    --
    There is no "-1 offended" or "-1 you don't agree with me" mod options for a reason.
  214. You could... by aneumeier · · Score: 1

    use a drill. The bigger the better. More often.

  215. Frankenstein say; by justsayin · · Score: 1

    Fire Bad

  216. Plasma by trout007 · · Score: 1
    --
    I love Jesus, except for his foreign policy.
  217. Disassembly and sandpaper by aoeu · · Score: 1

    Plus you get a couple of sweet magnets. A BFH also works if you're really in a hurry. I have a shot loaded 2 1/2 pound ball pein that will do the job. Unless the drive is of military interest denting the platter will do it.

    --
    All your database are belong to U.S.
  218. Super simple way. by Sqreater · · Score: 1

    Are you under indictment or investigation? If not, nobody cares, throw them into the trash. And let's not be naive about how much actual recyling is done--even by the recycling companies.

    --
    E Proelio Veritas.
  219. Volcano by galanom · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Here in Greece we have some volcanos that are easily accessible by the public and in fact some schools go there regularly. Last time I heard children went to either to the island of Nisyros or Santorini. There are plenty of holes to the ground that lava is visible. You can drop your hard drive there. Don't breath over the holes, I heard they smell terribly of brimstone. Don't fall inside. PS: Santorini is a great island to go to the summer, so perhaps you can combine those two activities.

  220. Variety by Gripp · · Score: 1

    I had a college buddy who studied forensics (hence - i dont know how FoS he was) but he claimed that strong magnets and even physical destruction could be at leasr partially recovered. enough for it to be still an issue - if say they were looking for something like like a CC number.

    so if i had something that i was serious about destroying to a point that NOTHING could ever be recovered from it would i go with a variety of the suggestions pointed out above - that is some or all of: overwrite, magnet, drill, acid, steel wool, hammer, heat. probably in that order.

  221. Gun, Bandsaw or Hydraulic Press by Dr.+Crash · · Score: 1

    Assuming the information on the hard drives is just PII, but not
    covered by HIPAA or some other government regulation, there are
    three quick and easy ways to destroy them that I've used. All three
    work at the "I have $10,000 to spend to recover the data" level of
    disk recovery (i.e. the NSA probably could pull some data and
    so could the FSB or Mossad, but not your local script kiddie).

    1) Gun. Take 'em to the firing range and "pop a cap in 'em".
    Preferably several rounds each. The idea is to bend the
    platters enough that they can't be easily read. Note that this
    is step 1 in "military decommissioning". It is also a lot
    of fun.

    2) Bandsaw. Cut the disks in half. This is much less fun
    than it seems; you will spend more time than you expect
    doing this. Wear eye and ear protection. Your local high
    school or tech/voc probably has a bandsaw you can use.
    Don't cut right through the hub, as the hardened steel ball
    bearings will really mess up the blade. Cut to the side of
    the hub only. DAMHIK.

    3) Hydraulic press. This is what we currently use at work.
    Just push a 4 cm. steel bar endwise through the middle of
    the disk drive till it comes out the other end. We use a
    20-ton press (from Harbor Freight - it's cheap enough
    that we don't care), with both hand and pneumatic pumps, and
    we can decommission a disk in about thirty seconds,
    without even having to remove it from the server cage
    sheet metal. Most machine shops as well as the
    tech-voc highschool will have a hydraulic press in this
    scale.

  222. Funny you should say that by jimicus · · Score: 1

    And I hate to whore my own company, but I do have a solution that works rather well:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKQz6zFQ3Fc

  223. If you have sensitive data... by MYakus · · Score: 1

    For cheap: take the shell off, break the platters & play with the magnets. Otherwise, just take a drill to them.

  224. Don't destroy them! by GameboyRMH · · Score: 3, Informative

    Unless these disks are inoperative (and you say using DBAN is an option so I guess they aren't), don't physically destroy them! One overwrite with any data - ones, zeroes or random - is enough to make the data unrecoverable on a hard drive made in roughly the last 20 years, according to US NIST (just be sure to use a tool that overwrites bad sectors as well). You can do two if you're super-paranoid. If you want to do more than that, seek professional help - psychiatric help, not IT help.

    Then give the wiped disks to someone who could use them.

    --
    "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
    1. Re:Don't destroy them! by rubycodez · · Score: 1

      bullshit, my clients are banks and government entities and they REQUIRE physical destruction drive, for a reason. You nonsense about inability to retrieve data is not true

    2. Re:Don't destroy them! by GameboyRMH · · Score: 1

      The reason is they have metric shit-tons of money, enemies with access to bleeding-edge tech (and shit-tons of money) and would rather err on the side of caution. Media destruction is a formality, 1 overwrite makes data unrecoverable:

      http://csrc.nist.gov/publications/nistpubs/800-88/NISTSP800-88_rev1.pdf

      --
      "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
    3. Re:Don't destroy them! by rubycodez · · Score: 1

      Sorry, but the DHS sponsors of your NIST document are a propaganda organ and proven pathological liars, they have motive and agenda to spread disinformation about forensic abilities. Residue traces of past domain alignments is recoverable with SQUID transducers

    4. Re:Don't destroy them! by GameboyRMH · · Score: 1

      This is tinfoil-hat stuff now. Those are the same recommendations given to US government agencies. Also see this:

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Data_remanence#Feasibility_of_recovering_overwritten_data

      --
      "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
    5. Re:Don't destroy them! by rubycodez · · Score: 1

      Oh, so you think wikipedia is the go-to authority on such matters? seems the tin foil is wrapped around your head. Anyway, you will note that in your linked article the DOD does NOT accept wiping as acceptable for sanitizing; neither do my clients which include governmental entities. The real state of affairs in such matters will not be on a convenient link for people like you.

    6. Re:Don't destroy them! by GameboyRMH · · Score: 1

      Well the OP is not trying to hide his data from the Men in Black so why should he take measures to defend against these super-top-secret data recovery techniques?

      --
      "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
  225. Take them to the range. by Rev+Saxon · · Score: 1

    Shotgun with slugs. Will punch a hole about an inch across thru the drive, and after 3-4 of them there is no way anyone, even a 3 letter agency is recovering that. And its a lot of fun...

    --
    I am that much more enlightened and proportionally disillusioned
  226. Windchimes by rfrenzob · · Score: 1

    It takes me about 10 minutes to rip a drive apart while watching TV in the evening. Out of it I get 2 neodymium magnets and if I'm lucky a stack of platters. The older the drive the better. 80GB circa 1999 == 4 platters, 80GB circa 2002 == 1 platter. Put your platters in a box, shake them up to randomize them, and then take a few and make a windchime or 3.

    I have had a 120GB windchime hanging on the porch for the last 2 years and have yet to have anyone try to recover the data off it.

  227. The fun way ... by bryanp · · Score: 1

    Years ago I took a big box full of 200MB SCSI drives I needed to dispose of to a rural firing range with some friends. I laid them out on the 50 yard berm and we spent a few hours plinking away at them, with AR-15's, AK-47 variants, shotguns, .357 magnum and such. Then about 30 minutes cleaning up the debris.

    --
    "An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." Col. Jeff Cooper
  228. Easy answers by KleinKlone · · Score: 1
    Four quick and dirty methods, depending on your paranoia level, how many tools and how much time you have. Its a simple case of determining acceptable loss versus the economy and efficacy of destruction (in other words, unless you have something the FBI or NSA wants, go for the easier solutions):
    1. Trivial: Destroy the IDE connector. If you're just hiding your porn, few people will bother to rebuild an IDE connector.
    2. Simple: Push a small screwdriver through the plastic filter port on the side of the drive, and scratch it over the surfaces of the platter. Scratched drives can't be read.
    3. Easy: Undo the 7 or so Torx screws holding the cover, expose the platters, and give them a good hard *whack* with the ball end of a ball-peen hammer. Dented drives can't be read, either.
    4. Easy, time consuming: Disassemble the drives, and rub each platter over some nice diamond sandpaper.

    -Dan

  229. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by whitelabrat · · Score: 1

    I agree. There are a lot of myths regarding storage sanitization. I do think it is too simplistic to say one pass of zeros will do the trick every time, but i'd give it a high probability of doing the job.

    More interesting reading for the inclined: http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut001/

    A log splitter works 100% of the time. No doubt. No myths.

  230. Rifle + Tannerite by Foldarn · · Score: 1

    Tannerite is a binary explosive available over the internet. Get yourself a decent rifle (even if you have to borrow it) and set the hard drive on top of a bottle of tannerite. Get back to 200 yards and fire away. Won't have a hard drive left AND you'll have had a great afternoon. For best results, remove the hard drive lid before ya do.

    1. Re:Rifle + Tannerite by jimbobborg · · Score: 1

      A better way is to pop the top off the drive, pack the inside with tannerite, seal it back up, shoot from a distance. If you have enough drives and tannerite, you can make a party out of it!

    2. Re:Rifle + Tannerite by Foldarn · · Score: 1

      EXCELLENT IDEA!

  231. Kiln or forge by mcgrew · · Score: 2

    You can make a kiln for almost nothing. Bury the drives in a barrel of sawdust, with large holes at the bottom of the barrel, and light it from the bottom. You can fire clay with a primitive kiln like that, it should be hot enough to melt the drives.

    A blacksmith's forge can get hot enough to literally burn steel.

    1. Re:Kiln or forge by Toze · · Score: 1

      A blacksmith's forge can get hot enough to literally burn steel.

      Which, believe me, is a /total/ pisser when all you're trying to do is soften it. Especially when you're doing the last two inches of an ornamental piece. There's a reason all blacksmiths are really OCD about temperature control; everyone's burned a piece. Once.

      --
      No OS on the planet can protect itself from a user with the admin password. - Yvan256
    2. Re:Kiln or forge by fotbr · · Score: 1

      Pretty sure we've all burned more than one piece if you count our learning experiences. All it takes it that little distraction at just the wrong time and we start swearing like sailors.

    3. Re:Kiln or forge by kilodelta · · Score: 1

      Or a big enough induction furnace! That would be fun actually.

  232. Practical Do It Yourself Drive Destuction by PantherX · · Score: 1

    I did this exact job at my work for a year and a half. I still assist that group from time to time. Where I work we destroy hundreds of drives a day, so obviously we had a machine that would do the job.

    For remote sites, however, it took us a while to come up with a good solution, so here's what we did in the meantime, and what you can do also, at home:

    Get yourself a technical screwdriver set... yes, one that will work on those screws on the hard drive. Their exact name escapes me at the moment, as I just woke up. Since you know what I'm talking about anyway, get that. Exactly that.

    Anyway, open up that puppy, and remove the platters from the spindle.

    Generally your platters should be metal. If this is a rare case where they are glass, smashy smashy. If not, get some vice grips, channel locks, pliers, whatever is handy, and fold that platter over like a taco.

    We sent a sample like this around to all the major data recovery outfits and they all quoted 5 figure sums with zero guarantees. They probably could get some data off it, but who is going to pay $10k+ to find out?

    At that point, is the data secure? About as secure as you can make it without some crazy.

    We would do other things after that point, but it was mostly out of due diligence/paranoia than actual data security.

    --
    Sig missing. Reward.
  233. Sharks with lasers, of course by macraig · · Score: 1

    Just drop the drives into the water with the sharks, and... zzzzt!

  234. a .45 works well by denyAll · · Score: 1

    We took our old ones to the shooting range - 17 HMR, 45, 9mm, 223 from an AR-15...

  235. dd if=/dev/urandom of=/dev/xxx 3 times + hammer by gatkinso · · Score: 1

    Making sure you trash the platters with the hammer.

    Dispose of in a big bucket filled with salt water.

    I challenge anyone to recover the data after this. While it might be theoretically possible, I doubt it can be done practically.

    --
    I am very small, utmostly microscopic.
  236. Re:oven - May be fun but .. by jvin248 · · Score: 1

    While this all seems very exciting...

    The proper thing to do is take the cover off and remove the platters (I think it's a #9 Torx typically). Damage just those disks.

    The magnets are great on the fridge (super strong so be careful). There are some people that have made wind generators out of those magnets.

    The cast aluminum housings are a high grade and valuable at a nearby recycler. But you have to get ALL the iron (screws) out of it or else you just made low grade aluminum (still worthwhile to recycle).

    The electronics board has lead solder and some precious metals in the chips and so the board should go to a local electronics recycler.

    .

  237. NOTHING will be enough if you are too paranoid by Zaatxe · · Score: 1

    Some physicists think that not even black holes can destroy information in a quantic level, making it possible to deterministically revert any physical destruction. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_hole_information_paradox But if you are not that paranoid, drill a hole and pour some muriatic acid in it.

    --
    So say we all
  238. It's an economic decision, not latent anger by mindcandy · · Score: 1

    As the "security" person, what you suggests makes sense until you realize that the hammer/drill method takes a unskilled grunt less than a minute to do, and the "wipe with zeros" method takes hours, even for a single pass, and a skilled technician to do.

    I have about 400 pounds of hard drives (many of them 100+gb FC disks out of an EMC SAN) that are all headed to the bandsaw. We have done the math on this many times .. the additional revenue from selling the 4-5 year old unit intact with disk - the time invested to render that disk "safe" for sale does not come out to more than we get for selling it all as scrap.

    It's not an "impulsive instinct to destroy", it's a business economics decision.

    Sure, we've had plenty of organizations say "give it to us, we'll send a guy to sit there and wipe them for you", but as a business, you can't trust them to *really* do it, and supervising that it got done loops back to the same time=money problem.

    Hence .. policy states "all storage devices, including those in printers, copiers, and networking devices, will be physically destroyed before sent for recycling or disposed as scrap".

    Nothing personal.

  239. Rock tumbler. by Remus+Shepherd · · Score: 1

    You can get a cheap rock tumbler for $100 or less. Pull the platters out of your drives and put them in the tumbler along with some coarse grit pellets and turn it on for a few days. For extra security throw some crushed up magnets in also. You'll strip the magnetic parts right off the disk and be left with shiny metallic platters devoid of information...if they don't disintegrate completely.

    --
    Genocide Man -- Life is funny. Death is funnier. Mass murder can be hilarious.
  240. use a mattock :-) by fantomas · · Score: 1

    I found a couple of good firm swings of my trusty garden mattock using the pick side gets old hard drives into non-recoverable mode before throwing the remains into the trash can. Plus it's very satisfying! :- ) I am sure if you're an international spy then the CIA could probably retrieve the data, but if you're just trying to destroy your hard drive to the point of stopping a local teenager fishing it out of your trash can and retrieving your amazon transactions and credit card data, I reckon this probably does the job...

  241. A BFH by Gonzodoggy · · Score: 1

    A ten pound sledge, some serious anger issues and a free afternoon should do the trick.

  242. Assuming you're not storing highly classified data by Restil · · Score: 1

    ... just open up the drives and work on the plates with a combination of tools such as a sledgehammer, bolt cutters, router, drill, and/or hacksaw. Even if you don't separate the pieces, there's a pretty good chance that nothing you have on those drives would ever be worth the cost and hassle to attempt to recover. If it actually IS that important, than hooking them up long enough to run dd on it a few times would not be out of the question.

    -Restil

    --
    Play with my webcams and lights here
  243. How to destroy a hard drive? by alfredo · · Score: 1

    Let a two year kid play with it.

    --
    photosMy Photostream
  244. sledge hammer. by buddyglass · · Score: 1

    Donky Kong style.

  245. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by daha · · Score: 1

    Your colleague did not get back 100% of the files that were on the system before the overwrite. They only got back what was still resident that didn't get overwritten by the ghost image restore. The ghost image only had the used portions of the drive copied, it did not have a full image of the drive.

  246. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by nine-times · · Score: 1

    I'd also be inclined to question: how much do you really need to destroy this data? What are you hiding? State secrets? Credit card information? Your porn-watching habits? Or your music collection?

    A lot of times this stuff really boils down to "I don't really need to protect this data very thoroughly, but going through insane security measures makes me feel like I'm some kind of super-spy." In that case, it isn't security, it's ego-stroking.

  247. Drill press by The-Blue-Clown · · Score: 1

    I trash 10+ a year. This is how its done. Drill a 1/4 right through the drive so its hits all the platters on the way through and comes out the other side. Then pitch them in the dumpster.

  248. acetylene torch by Digital+G · · Score: 1

    Go get yourself an acetylene torch set and start cutting away.

    --

    End Transmission....
  249. DOD Approved by otaku244 · · Score: 1

    Someone check me on this, but the easiest DOD approved method is to use a drill a hole through the housing/platter. This exposes the HDD to the elements, spreads platter shavings across the platter (which lightly scrambles the magnetic field ), and puts A HOLE through your data. That makes it pretty hard to recover from.

    The other option is to simply dismantle the drive. This has the added value is that you can then take out the rare-earth magnet. These little widgets have a whole mess of uses.

    --
    Mod me down, I shall become more off-topic than you could possibly imagine.
  250. Use Secure Erase by Sycraft-fu · · Score: 2

    There's a command in the IDE and SATA spec just for this, called Secure Erase. Just get a program that can run it. It wipes everything, including reallocated sectors, the whole 9 yards.

  251. Local Library by Sylak · · Score: 1

    Go to your local Public or University Library, chances are they have a degausser as part of their book security system...

    Then smash those fuckers with a hammer

  252. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Alien54 · · Score: 1

    But will it Blend?

    --
    "It is a greater offense to steal men's labor, than their clothes"
  253. I wish people understood this by Sycraft-fu · · Score: 1

    First just the technical aspect of how drives work and why the whole magic "read overwritten data" thing is BS. Look up EPRML, which is the method modern drives use to write, and learn about it first. If it sounds kinda like voodoo, well, it is :). The upshot of it though is that it deals with extremely low SNR stuff. You don't have nice clear, defined, bits. As such when you lower that SNR, by writing over it, you are screwed in terms of recovery.

    The other part to understand is that you are not that important. Nobody gives a shit about your data. You wipe it so someone doesn't stumble across it. I mean after all, someone might look at the drive to see what's there just because. However nobody is going to target you, they just don't care.

    So stop thinking like you have to act like the NSA with regards to keeping things secure. You don't. They go overboard with their data destruction because they are institutionally paranoid and because the data they protect is very valuable and many people would go to great lengths to get. Your data? Not so much. Anyone who cared enough to have some mythical system that can recover data from an overwritten drive (something no commercial recovery firm has) would get it some other way. Given that you are probably just some guy, well they could just hire a couple people with shotguns to kick in your door and steal your shit.

  254. Sleep with the Fishes by myth24601 · · Score: 1

    Since everyone is coming up with odd ball destruction methods, I say dump them.

    Drill a hole in each one then charter a boat to go off shore and toss 'em in the ocean in deep water.

    Gone forever.

    --
    No matter where you go, there you are.
  255. Burn and bury with thermite .... by OldHawk777 · · Score: 1
    --
    Unaccountable leaders are masters, and unrepresented people are slaves. How do US and EU fare?
  256. You're missing the point. by definate · · Score: 1

    You're right. All you need is 1 random pass.

    Now, please tell me how to do 1 random pass when my control board has died.

    --
    This is my footer. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
  257. Nuke it by ProzacPatient · · Score: 1

    Nuke the entire hard drive from orbit -- it's the only way to be sure.

  258. take them apart by AxemRed · · Score: 1

    Most people don't care about your data. The fastest, easiest way to destroy the drive is to hit it a couple of times with a hammer. Smash the circuit board and put a couple of good dents in the top, and no one is going to bother messing with it. It should only take about 10 sec. If you're dealing with irrational people or irrational policies, it's a different story. I worked at a university one summer that wanted hard drives destroyed in an approved way, but they never bothered specifying what that approved way was. We overwrote them with pseudorandom data and threw them in a pile under the workbench. Eventually I got tired of them being there and I took them apart one at a time. I took the board off and smashed it. Then I took the lid off, removed each platter, and bent it until it broke. I kept the magnets because they were awesome and threw the rest in the trash. I figured it was sufficient, but it was kind of a waste of time even though it was fun.

  259. Targets by sminiowa · · Score: 1

    I find it extremely cathartic to take them to the range and use them as targets. I can confirm that the standard hard drive is unable to stop a 12 ga slug or a 7.62x39 FMJ round.

  260. Re:Freeze Them! Good and Solid by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

    In that case the OP needs to add an important step: "punch a hole in the drive." I wouldn't count on enough water getting in through the pressure value on a hard drive. I don't think I'd count on ice erasing the platters either.

    Agreed about the electronics. Especially in a hard drive. The electronics are a simple board with no enclosed parts to keep water sitting around, so it should dry quite quickly.

  261. Office Space by nitehawk214 · · Score: 1

    Go Office Space on them. Best = Most fun.

    Die Mother F'er Die Mother F'er Die

    Other than that, nobody cares what is on your old hard drives. If you make them non functioning by damaging the electronics or drilling in to the platter to cause some physical damage, nobody is going to go to the trouble of trying to recover it.

    Also, don't cook them; while letting the smoke out will destroy the drives, it could also be toxic.

    --
    I'm a good cook. I'm a fantastic eater. - Steven Brust
  262. Hard drive shredding, but why? by Above · · Score: 1

    If you live in a large city there will be one or more companies that do data destruction for corporations in your city that need to meet various standards for contracts they are working on, often for the government. Most of this will be bulk paper shredding and the like, but most will also do hard drives. Many will let you show up at the site and watch your hard drive go in the machine and get spit out in shreds, if you care. They are all certified (I forget the standard), they will bar code the drive, inventory it, and then shred it, and give you a certificate with the inventory numbers and serials confirming they were destroyed. The service is cheap if you don't make them come pick them up, I think around $10 a drive for single quantities.

    However, I'm mostly with the other folks in this thread. If you write over with zeros in a pass or two pretty much anyone except the NSA won't stand a chance of recovering any data. Even someone like the NSA would only do it if there was no other way, due to the cost of getting that data. Basically, no one cares about you enough, unless you're like a major drug kingpin or something on the side.

    I degauss mine, only because work has a machine (from years ago) so it's "free" and only takes a couple of minutes...but I also only do it on dead drives. If I have a drive I'm just not using right now I write zeros to it and store it to be used as a scratch drive. Only after it won't spin up anymore does it get degaussed.

    The other DIY method mentioned is to drill a quarter inch hole in the platters with a drill press. Pro data recovery companies could get some data off for lots (10's of thousands) of money unless you drill like 20 holes it in, but it would keep any non-pro users from reading the drive.

    Overwrite them and be happy. Shred them and know the stuff that comes out the back end at least gets recycled. It's all about your paranoia level.

  263. Belt sander by wwphx · · Score: 1

    Yeah, I wouldn't think a home oven would be high enough. I say take the platters out of the drive and use a belt sander or grinder and just strip off the oxide.

    --
    When you sympathize with stupidity, you start thinking like an idiot.
  264. quick easy and shiney by juenger1701 · · Score: 1

    clay pot
    thermite
    torch

  265. Melt them by redwraith94 · · Score: 2

    The best way overall is to dismantle them, and melt the platters. Most platters are composed of an Aluminum alloy (~660 Celsius max melting point). The media layer that actually stores the data can vary widely between manufacturers, and product lines (Usually based on a Cobalt Chromium alloy with Platinum or Tantalum). There is no reasonably easy way to get the curie point, or the coercivity of the platters. The curie point (temperature at which the magnetic domains randomize) varies widely due to composition, and the parameters of the CVD, or PVD process, as does the coercivity (which determines the strength of the magnetic field needed to degauss the platters). The curie point of a thin film (~micron) media layer is usually substantially less than the 'bulk' curie point of the alloy, and it may be that the thin film curie point is lower than the melting point of the substrate, however it still would be a feat to find this information for each drive that you needed to wipe. So if you melt the substrate layer, then the particles left over from the media layer will be randomly oriented (even if they haven't been 'erased' by the heat), and so there would be no way to recover the data from them. You would need some torx screwdrivers, and either an oven (that gets hot enough, not an oven for baking), or a propane torch (1,000 Celsius / 1800 Fahrenheit). I use the Craftsmen variety, but they can have a tendency to break in the middle as they aren't 'full tang', they will work alirght if you are careful though. Using software can be alright, though you can't really be sure the data is gone, since the first data written gets the deepest, and widest recorded track, there may be a thin area of the data track where previously written information is still stored. Also as Peter Gutmann described it is unknown what encoding scheme is used, his 35 pass method is only suggested for PRML encoded drives, he recommends as many passes as feasible of pseudo-random data for today's hard drives. Dismantling, and melting is easier, and more assured imo.

    --
    I art more snarky, and terse than thou. I art Slashdot!
  266. Give me the hard drives. by idbeholda · · Score: 1

    However, with the ones that aren't usable, I would suggest ceremoniously throwing them into a volcano, thus appeasing The Ancient Earth Gods and preventing the simultaneous eruption of every volcano on December 22, 2012.

  267. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by couchslug · · Score: 1

    HDs are trivially cheap. It's easy to verify destruction, and a quick shot with a hammer will smash the platters without even bothering with a punch. Deform the case into them. Large ball pein for teh win.

    The customer can "see" their data is destroyed.

    --
    "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
  268. Disintegrator by deets52 · · Score: 1

    The Gov't method for getting rid of devices - Disintergrator.

    For personal use (i.e. free as in beer, and easy) I found that encrypting a drive is much faster than wiping a drive. Take Truecrypt and encrypt the drive with a very long passphrase - 60 to 64 characters. Some software allows you to wipe out the encryption key, basically making the drive a brick - which is a better option (with no key to crack it is almost impossible to recover).

  269. Trash can by couchslug · · Score: 1

    Damage the controller cards and throw the drives out with your nastiest kitchen debris.

    --
    "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
  270. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by biek · · Score: 1

    Throw down a wood block, put HD on block, apply sledge. Two or three good strikes and you're set.

  271. smush them in a press by imaswinger · · Score: 1

    Stop by any local metal fabricator - give buddy a six-pack and have him smush them in a press. Takes 5 seconds, and if you put them in standing on edge, they smush up real good. smush.

  272. Run Windows on it for twelve months! by Kaz+Kylheku · · Score: 1

    Slow, but sure.

  273. DBAN possibly not an option by jones_supa · · Score: 1

    Notice that DBAN might actually not be an option for him as he says in the post that he no more has any IDE hardware to plug such disks to. Ok, he could get some, but it'd be a bit of a hassle.

  274. Copy machines and hipaa compliance by DigiShaman · · Score: 1

    There's still an issue with MFP copy machines being sold and re-provisioned to other businesses. Scanned medical documents buffered on the drives can still be recovered for many of the units. Only the newer machines (or updated firmware) will encrypt the data on writes. But often they're expensive so they're not replacing the refurbished units quick enough. It will be another 10+ plus years before they get flushed out of the market would be my guess.

    Point being. I'm curious to know if hipaa compliance now requires taking the drives out of the machines, or having written certification the data buffered in these copy machines will be securely wiped.

    --
    Life is not for the lazy.
  275. I will dispose of them for you!! This is how by Deek2 · · Score: 1

    Donate them to add to my wall. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/wan/2624342850.html I will pay shipping.

  276. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by nschubach · · Score: 1

    If you right random data, you risk reproducing copy-written material!

    --
    Every time I start to have faith in humanity, I ruin it by driving to work between 7 and 8 am.
  277. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by nschubach · · Score: 1

    F--! If you write random data...

    --
    Every time I start to have faith in humanity, I ruin it by driving to work between 7 and 8 am.
  278. Playtime! by WDancer · · Score: 1

    Just remove the platters and let some kindergarteners play with them on the playground. Sure to be destroyed in no time. Also, give the magnets to your local high school science class. In seriousness, if you remove the platters and dispose of them separately from the drive cases, you are almost guaranteed no recovery. Anyone who comes across it and can read it without the associated heads and drive electronics is a serious three-letter agency and what the hell have you done to draw their attention?

  279. Re:Cheap... by Coren22 · · Score: 1

    Works well for CDs, just doesn't smell too good. Don't do this at work, people get pissed.

    --
    APK likes to ask for responses to the same things over and over. Maybe he just likes the responses?
  280. Zeroing and overwriting does not work by benro03 · · Score: 1

    I had two clients in the electronic data discovery business and both laughed when I asked about zeroing a drive. According to them, all they do is alter the track pattern and they can pick up the data very easily. They said to physically destroy it with a sledgehammer.

    --
    I am Homer of Borg, resistance is - Ooo Donuts!
  281. UPS by uvajed_ekil · · Score: 1

    Mark "FRAGILE" and ship via UPS.

    --
    This is a hacked account, for which the owner can not be held responsible.
  282. environmentally friendly?? by vmaldia · · Score: 1

    the most environmentally friendly way to treat any appliance is to reuse it. Many many carbon dioxide molecules were created and many many toxic chemicals were released into the environment to produce it. So just wipe it and sell it or donate it to some poor third world charity

  283. obligatory nutshell post by mpgalvin · · Score: 1

    - Yes, the firms can be trusted - caveat pay attention to ToS. Take note of which ones will certify destruction of the drive, some even cover PCI liability.

    - You can run DBAN (or similar tools!) yourself, from any system w the right connects, on as many drives as the chipset can manage. Then you can resell or donate drives. Yes it takes some time, but unless it's a drive that predates UDMA, it's not going to take too long unless there are r/w errors - in which case just punt it to the next method.

    - Power drill + hard drive = pretty sparks. Alternatively, you can just disassemble the drive - I find the metal platters make very nice coasters.

    ps: Degaussing is not considered sufficient for business use, so if you're concerned about data destruction it's not the route to go.

  284. This question is constantly asked and posted by Khyber · · Score: 1

    Can we stop answering it, already? Wanna degauss your shit? It's as simple as finding a pair of Oster heavy-duty hair clippers.

    Sticky this answer for all time and quit letting this fucking question get submitted every few months.

    --
    Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
  285. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Coren22 · · Score: 1

    and take off the damned tinfoil hat.

    Very important! Magnetic fields of that strength plus aluminum could hurt.

    --
    APK likes to ask for responses to the same things over and over. Maybe he just likes the responses?
  286. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by fusiongyro · · Score: 1

    The problem is the opportunity cost. You know which hard drives have sensitive data on them, but your some punk doesn't. Moreover, even your hard drives with sensitive data on them probably have lots of other stuff on them too, such as an operating system. If you're worried about database data, how likely is it you have Oracle and Oracle's data in the same place? An Oracle data partition without the corresponding configuration isn't particularly useful. But how many punks do you know who go out to the dump and root around for hard drives, take them all home, plug them in and go surfing for useful data? It would be a huge amount of work.

    Even supposing this punk finds your product source code on there, what's he going to do with it? Just fire up gcc and stick it in the app store? Running a business is hard work. I know a writer who constantly worries about his computer being hacked into, yet can't find a publisher himself for his own work. I try to point out that getting published is hard work, why would somebody go to all that effort to live so poorly when they could just get a job?

    Moreover, if this punk really wants your credit cards, why would he bother rooting around in your trash when he could just sniff your wifi and wait for you to make a purchase somewhere stupid, or send you a phishing email? For that matter, I doubt it's very hard to go to IRC somewhere and say "I need a thousand credit cards"; credit cards are not stolen individually these days when they can instead be stolen and sold in bulk.

    I certainly see a need for proper, secure hard drive erasure for government or military secrets, but in industry, I certainly agree with the OP: the sheer quantity of boring data out there is itself a wonderful deterrent, and a simple one-pass write of zeros is enough to raise the opportunity cost of finding valuable data well beyond the threshold of "some punk" rooting through your trash.

  287. Boy Scouts will do the job by Osama+Binlog · · Score: 1

    Whenever I teach the Computer Merit Badge, I start with a couple of old hard drives. I pass them out and supply tools. Within 30 minutes the the drives are history. Wires are pulled out and examined. The platters are bent, scratched and shuffled. The magnets are gone. They go home with REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS FROM HELL. Best of all, the boys are eager to learn more.

  288. Many ways... by frank_adrian314159 · · Score: 1

    1. High explosives.
    2. Rocket into the sun.
    3. Dissolve in acid bath.
    4. Laser beam (preferabley on shark's head)
    5. Poison gas.

    Oh, wait... those last two were from my "Evil villain list of how to get rid of nosy spies". Oh, well... same thing.

    --
    That is all.
  289. Just write zeros to the damn hard drive by toadlife · · Score: 1

    DBan quick erase takes very little time and the data will *NOT* be recoverable. Anyone who thinks otherwise watches too much CSI.

    --
    I don't always use unix-like operating systems; but when I do, I prefer FreeBSD.
  290. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

    I'd also be inclined to question: how much do you really need to destroy this data?

    Right, that's the real question - "is the data worth the cost of recovery?" Nobody will use a probe microscope to try to recover your porn collection. Keys to a popular CA, perhaps.

    Then again, a whack with a hammer is incredibly cheap insurance.

    --
    My God, it's Full of Source!
    OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  291. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by RatherBeAnonymous · · Score: 1

    I use an external dock for SATA drives or a USB to IDE adapter and plug it into a spare windows PC in the office. A quick format and then "cipher /W" does the trick.

    Oh, I almost forgot the most important step.... I teach an intern how to do it so that I'm not wasting my own time.

  292. Re:cat /dev/urandom /dev/hda by Shadyman · · Score: 1

    But, for the truly paranoid, you have to bypass or trick the controller to also overwrite the remapped bad sectors. That's not trivial a task, or, more precisely, it depends heavily on the controller's firmware and drive model.

    ATA Secure Erase :)

  293. Why use all the violence? by Darylium · · Score: 1

    Simply unscrew the (controller?) chip off the hard drive, and dispose of both of them separately.

  294. Don't worry about it by csoto · · Score: 1

    Nobody wants your shit, anyway.

    --
    There exists no way of exchanging information without making judgments. --Bene Gesserit Axiom
  295. Quick, cheap, and effective... by Millennium · · Score: 1

    Remove the platters from the drive (so you can salvage the super-strong magnets for Science! projects), and then take a sledgehammer to the platters. Breaking them into several pieces should keep anyone short of an intelligence agency away from your data, and even if an intelligence agency is actually after you, this will make their lives very miserable while they recover the data.

    If you absolutely positively must destroy the data beyond all hope of repair, then melt the platter pieces down, use your sledgehammer to break up the resulting lump of metal again, and bury the pieces separately (in blocks of concrete if you can manage it). This is overkill, but it'll work.

    Of course, then you have to deal with the problem of people deciding that your hard drives aren't worth recovering and going after your data other ways. Witness http://xkcd.com/538/ for an example.

  296. easiest: a torch, followed by a 1lb hammer by whitroth · · Score: 1

    Given that they used to use iron oxide coatings, a torch would do; you don't need to melt them, just hit the Curie point.

    And a sledge is *so* satisfying.

    On the other hand, at work, we had some old SCSI drives that were, quote, too big to fit in the frame of the Center's deGausser, so we disassembled the drives. Torx, I think the itty bitty screws were....

                        mark

  297. The way the big boys do it by RapmasterT · · Score: 1

    I deal with this stuff at work every day, and the way it's ACTUALLY done isn't as fancy or as fun as people seem to think. We use a high-ish speed hydraulic press to deform the platters to the point where they're not able to spin/turn/anything any more. that step is basically securing the drives for transport to an industrial shredding facility. They dump the drives into a giant shredder that spits chunky dust out the other side.

  298. Screwdriver, Sandpaper by cmholm · · Score: 1

    Assuming you've got the "normal" selection of tools in your place, just disassemble the drives and use a coarse grit sandpaper on the magnetic surfaces. About 60 seconds of elbow grease on each side should be enough. If extra paranoid, rinse the platters, and if you can still see yourself, do it again. A clamp and power sander would be a neat extra.

    As many posters have said, save the actuator magnets. The older the drive, the bigger the magnet. They are more powerful than anything you'll find at a hardware store, enough to draw blood if a couple pinch a fingertip. Neodymium iron boron magnets are brittle, so I'd suggest leaving them on their steel backplates (see here for details).

    --
    Luke, help me take this mask off ... Just for once, let me butterfly kiss you with my own eyes.
  299. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by Jumperalex · · Score: 1

    It will if "your worst" = gouging them + bending them + blow torching them + disposing of each platter in separate locations (assuming multiple platters)

    If there is someone/some-state willing to spend the money and time required to recover data from that then 1) they are welcome to it, 2) *I* have the money to spend to further erradicate the platters (read: melt them to slag or use a degauser).

    --
    If you can't be good, be good at it!
  300. Don't know if it's the best way... by bortas · · Score: 1

    But a Saturday morning at the gun range with a nice .50 cal sniper rifle is a really fun way to destroy old hard drives.

  301. A kiln or muriatic acid maybe by Weaselmancer · · Score: 1

    I came in here to say the same thing. I made my own propane kiln for a few hundred bucks. It runs off propane and quickly gets sheet metal up into the orange/yellow. My thermocouple has told me temps in the 1800-1900F range. That'll fix up your hard drive quick. Disclaimer: Probably would put off all kinds of toxic fumes if you try, so I can't recommend trying this. If you do though please go outside in the open and never in an enclosed space.

    Another good idea might be to leave the drive in a solution of muriatic acid for a couple of days. I know some smiths use a muriatic acid (think swimming pool supply store) solution to de-rust parts before work. If it strips rust off, that would peel the platters clean of information since the information is stored in a layer of iron oxide.

    --
    Weaselmancer
    rediculous.
  302. Pickaxe. by Existential+Wombat · · Score: 1

    Sorted. Next question?

  303. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by plover · · Score: 1

    300,000 hrs = 34.2 years! You might want to double check the specs. I'm betting the 300,000 hrs is MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure), which is not directly related to MTTF. MTBF = (total # failures)/(total # hrs). FYI,

    The figure of 300,000 hours appears to be based on running 100 disks for one year and counting 3 failures, instead of trying to run ten disks for 100 years and noting they generally fail in year 34. And that is the reason I don't believe published specs can properly reflect the real lifetime of a single hard disk.

    The difference between Mean Time To Failure (MTTF) and Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF) describes the methodology of the study, and says more about the type of product than the measurement. MTTF is measured when the clock is stopped when a unit fails. MTBF is measured for a fixed duration, with failed units repaired. Expensive items that are easy to repair are better measured in MTBF; while cheap, disposable, hard-to-repair items are better measured in MTTF. Hard drives typically fall under the latter category, as they're viewed as one of the repair components for a more expensive item (the computer system) which is probably measured in MTBF.

    Because of the limitations of the testing methodology, neither MTTF nor MTBF provides a meaningful number for a single unit. The problem is that they express reliability in terms of a line based on just a few early data points, but we all know that the real hard disk lifetime plots out as the infamous Bathtub Curve. Think about it in terms of explaining these concepts to a manager who is about to sign a contract for 10,000 drives. He just wants to know if he can expect ten failures every month or one failure every year. It's a simplification because most people don't want to incorporate the bathtub curve into a contract, and because the vendors have to get the drives out on the market long before they can complete an actual test for the drive lifetime.

    --
    John
  304. .308 by Wee · · Score: 1

    Though .223 works too.

    -B

    --

    Ash and Hickory, straight-grained and true, make excellent bludgeons, dandy for the cudgeling of vegetarians.

  305. Resources by DragonHawk · · Score: 1

    Since Giant MR it's been very hard to read overwritten blocks without probe microscopy ($$$) ...

    Cost (money, manhours, etc.) are often cited when it comes to why the NSA's requirements are silly, but people forget that the NSA is not working in the same problem space most are. The NSA and it's foreign counterparts *do* have the resources to spend on that kind of thing. They may even have technologies not publicly known. But they're also protecting things like nuclear launch codes. Chances are, your corporate payroll isn't capable of ending civilization as we know it. :)

    --

    dragonhawk@iname.microsoft.com
    I do not like Microsoft. Remove them from my email address.
  306. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by Capt.DrumkenBum · · Score: 1

    It doesn't work. At least unless you sit there moving your mouse around.
    I was several years ago what I tried it, so things may have changed.

    --
    If I were God, wouldn't I protect my churches from acts of me?
  307. Who do you want to shield your data from? by Vrtigo1 · · Score: 1

    If you're worried the NSA is investigating you then you may have justification for taking extreme measures, but if you're just a normal person looking to get rid of old drives I think a hammer or even a screwdriver will do just fine. When we have drives fail at work, I usually use a screwdriver to physically break off the SATA/IDE connector and poke some holes in any exposed circuit boards. This is sufficient to prevent dumpster divers from getting your data.

    If you have access to tools, a drill press seems like a pretty easy way to render drives inoperable. I think that's what I'll do next time I have some drives to get rid of. Just make sure you use bits you don't care about as I would imagine going through a hdd will leave them a little worse for wear.

  308. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by AbRASiON · · Score: 1

    Wow, moderated down from 5 to 3! There must be a lot of "security experts" using slashdot now, what a shame. - So where shall the actually technically informed people go now, since the commoners are coming here?

  309. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by ToasterMonkey · · Score: 1

    After reading up on the theory of data recovery, why would you even consider plain zeroing, as esoteric as the drive encoding might be?

    Since PRML codes don't try to separate peaks in the same way that non-PRML RLL codes do, all we can do is to write a variety of random patterns because the processing inside the drive is too complex to second- guess.

    A good scrubbing with random data will do about as well as can be expected.

    In the time since this paper was published, some people have treated the 35-pass overwrite technique described in it more as a kind of voodoo incantation to banish evil spirits than the result of a technical analysis of drive encoding techniques. As a result, they advocate applying the voodoo to PRML and EPRML drives even though it will have no more effect than a simple scrubbing with random data.

    From your own link. Nowhere in there does it say one pass of an easily guessable pattern (all 0's, REALLY?) is sufficient. The very first pass listed is "Random". One pass of zeros is stupider than the full 7 or 35 pass overwrite...

  310. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by ToasterMonkey · · Score: 1

    That's not to say that you can recover data with the platters removed

    What don't you people understand here?
    From the link tossed around here a dozen times already..

    "There are, from manufacturers sales figures, several thousand SPM's in use in the field today, some of which have special features for analysing disk drive platters, such as the vacuum chucks for standard disk drive platters along with specialised modes of operation for magnetic media analysis. These SPM's can be used with sophisticated programmable controllers and analysis software to allow automation of the data recovery process. If commercially-available SPM's are considered too expensive, it is possible to build a reasonably capable SPM for about US$1400, using a PC as a controller [6]."

    Quit saying MAYBE, there are specialized tools being made for this task. They will continue to get better.

    You are absolutely deluded if you guys think think your information is safe because it is hard to recover _today_ and think it will not be valuable the _day after_ you throw a drive out. Recovery techniques will get cheaper and more accessible over time, and your most sensitive information is sensitive for DECADES, maybe your whole life! Meanwhile, discarded drives are frozen in time, and you HOPE your data will be overwritten more than once by non-guessable data. Forget today's hard drives... twenty year old hard drives are cheap, not regarded as insecure, easy to recover data from, and still might have sensitive financial information. Why would't the same be true twenty years from now? They might have pocket scanning electron microscopes then!

    Write random data, at least once, for your own good, twice if you have the time.

  311. Disassemble by vicm3 · · Score: 1

    Disassemble all parts and send to different recycling trades. Maybe in the process you can get even some money back.

  312. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by LynnwoodRooster · · Score: 1

    If you can't hit it and split it with the first attempt, then you really suck at splitting wood, and need much more practice. Single stroke, single HDD shattered and destroyed (or 16" round split in half). Of course, this is /. where 8 hours of heavy mouse use constitutes a long work out period...

    --
    Browsing at +1 - no ACs, I ignore their posts. So refreshing!
  313. Back Up by Rehnberg · · Score: 1

    Back up something relatively important, then walk around with the drive for say, 30 seconds. You'll drop it and the platters will shatter. On top of that, now you have a nice caxixi.

  314. Re:Covered a long time ago! by md65536 · · Score: 1

    How did they do it?! Is there a way to ask slashdot this?

  315. Wind chimes by ResidentSourcerer · · Score: 1

    Hang the disks on fishing line. Best if you have several vintages of disks. Add some old table saw blades for a different tone.

    --
    Third Career: Tree Farmer Second Career: Computer Geek First Career: Teacher, Outdoor Instructor, Photographer.
  316. I could use a degausser, but they are prohibitivel by tchall · · Score: 1

    My reloaded .270 Winchester ammo runs about 30 cents a shot...

    3-5 shots per drive at 100 meters and not only do you have the platters shattered to bits, but it's good target practice...

    A dozen drives would be a pleasant afternoon's plinking session...

  317. Depends on the data. by ebvwfbw · · Score: 1

    Illegal porn? Things that should never see the light of day again, you need to make sure it's gone. Take the time and use the Linux Shred command, 2 passes, third pass zeros. This will do a very good job at keeping the data safe. Military grade is 7 times, however I think that is way overkill. I know they can get it up to 3 writes ago. It's very expensive but they can do it. If it's just crap, you may want to just destroy the interface board or remove it. Without an interface board, that makes it very difficult to get at the data. They know that even if they get the board, it may be a wiped disk. If your life depends on the data not being exposed, take the time and do it right. Note that this doesn't necessarily mean porn or government secrets. Sensitive data could be your financial records, tax returns, things like that. If a thief has your tax return, he can do you a lot of harm. Don't worry about them caring, they really don't care about you or what you go through either. IMHO they should be executed by hanging as soon as they are sure they are the ones doing the id theft.

    By the way, I'm in the same boat. I have a bunch of old drives to get rid of. Same problem. For the drives I can't write to anymore because I have nothing to interface to it, I'm taking them apart and drilling the disks. Get a nice cobolt (Not cobolt brand, a cobolt drill) drill at Lowes or Home Depot. They go through it like melted butter. Yes, I've done this a few times already.

  318. Salvage the magnets by niftymitch · · Score: 1

    Salvage the magnets recycling firms will begin to pay
    real bucks for rare earth scrap.

    With the magnets in hand you also have the disks
    in hand. Run those salvaged motor and seek magnets
    over the media -- then don goggles and smack the platters
    with a hammer.

    --
    Truth is stranger than fiction, but it is because Fiction is obliged to stick to possibilities; Truth isn't. Mark Twain.
  319. Kill it! by david+clark · · Score: 1

    I run them through the microwave for about 30 seconds. Yes, its metal. Sit it on a ceramic plate, and crank it up...

  320. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by niftymitch · · Score: 1

    Writing zeros is less interesting than writing some
    random bits or pseudo bits. Gather a block of
    bits from /dev/random and then write a gazillion files
    with those bits in the files to fill up the disk.

    Many companies have a physical search and destroy
    policy because working drives would be send out to
    salvage at uncle bobs and then sold on the market.

    By sawing a drive in half the auditor that has no clearance
    can record the serial number in the gone for good logs.
    And warranty might be collected from some companies.

    If the data has value the policy looks a lot like the roach motel.
    By stopping any repair, reuse or misuse data cannot flow
    out on a 'spare'.

    Solid state drives add some complexity to all this....

    --
    Truth is stranger than fiction, but it is because Fiction is obliged to stick to possibilities; Truth isn't. Mark Twain.
  321. Re:This attitude makes me sick and I'm tired of it by niftymitch · · Score: 1

    ....snip...
    (/dev/urandom is too slow and /dev/random ...snip...

    It is not necessary to generate a stream of random bits
    for the drive. A couple blocks of random bits written
    over and over will do the trick. The number of blocks
    can be large enough to optimize I/O say 1/3rd of
    the system memory...

    The major risk for some is junk that should have been removed.
    Deleting files from a dumpster should begin with a rename of the
    files with a name long enough to leave little clue what the file was.
    Walk through some random bits with a hex dump tool to make file names and rename
    based on that. Filling up a file system with random bits of junk filled files occasional
    can minimize garbage that might be latent in 'free' disk blocks.
    Overwriting a file does nothing predictable as new filesystems are happy to
    use free blocks and just change the list of blocks. The old data can
    hang about a long time in the list of free blocks. Longer on solid state disks.

    --
    Truth is stranger than fiction, but it is because Fiction is obliged to stick to possibilities; Truth isn't. Mark Twain.
  322. So far nobody's said take 'em apart by vandamme · · Score: 1

    You can take them apart in a couple minutes with the right size torqz bit, and have yourself some really strong magnets and a bunch of LARGE flat washers. Those rare earth magnets will be worth money someday. Oh, and an aluminum case, good for....I dunno, I've built gadgets into a couple,parts tray, that's about it.

  323. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by dokc · · Score: 1

    I use them as a glass pad

    --
    In love, war and slashdot discussions, everything is allowed.
  324. Re:not necessarily the easiest way by NelsChristian · · Score: 1

    You can recover data from metal dust? A few seconds with a grinder on the disk faces should work quite well. Disassembly and physical destruction doesn't seem the easiest way, but it would work.

  325. domestic incinerator by Tastecicles · · Score: 1

    I recently used a 60 litre steel bin incinerator loaded with garden waste and doused in kerosene to dispose of some old drives. What I ended up with was a lump of slag and ash in the bottom of the incinerator after some 13 hours of smoulder - an incinerator with four foot flames is not doing its job. There should be a lot of heat and not much smoke. The old drives were completely unrecognisable.

    --
    Operation Guillotine is in effect.