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Ask Slashdot: Building A Server Rack Into a New Home?

jawtheshark writes "I'm building a house, and obviously I want a modest network built-in. Nothing fancy, two RJ-45 per room, four in the living room, and that's basically it. I already got myself a rack mountable Cisco Small Business switch and I have a self-built 4U server (low-power, won't make much heat) which can be rack mounted (505mm deep). Now, the construction company suggests a wall mounted rack (6U: 340mm x 600mm x 480mm — 6U definitely won't be enough, but a 12U model exists). It's not expensive, but I have never worked on a rack where the backside is unreachable. (For work, I get to work in a data center with huge racks that are accessible from both sides). Now obviously, I don't need a data center-grade rack, but these wall-mounted racks scream 'switch-only' racks to me. What are your experiences? Is it possible to put servers in racks like these, or should I find a 'both-side-accessible' rack instead?"

402 comments

  1. 42U - Go Big or Go Home by y00nix · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Why mess around with wall-mount brackets? You'll be cramped for depth when you want to throw in a real PoE switch, or some other gear you're not thinking about now. They also have swing-out racks that you can open the front and back from (as there are hinges on one of the back sides), but you'll pay quite a bit for these. I believe they are somewhere in the realm of $300-350 when we buy them for clients. Personally - I like lots of space, because you never know when you'll want to end up building a home theatre or adding another server, and centralizing all the gear where it should be - the server room. I have 42U 4-post black open frame rack (from a common manufacturer), that I picked up off Craigslist for $150 (normally $400 new)...and put it in a closet I converted into a server room. Put down a new floor, and raised the floor a couple inches where the server rack goes (no underfloor cooling unfortunately). Two dedicated 20A 110V circuits, two 1500VA batteries w/ mgmt cards, two 15A PDUs. CAT6 patch panel in the rack, also have a 2x2 wallboard with 66 block for CAT3 termination. No 6509 yet ;)

    1. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by fustakrakich · · Score: 0

      That's kind of overdoing it. I just use a bunch of those plug computers with wifi.

      --
      “He’s not deformed, he’s just drunk!”
    2. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 4, Funny

      Why use the outdated rack system anyway? I use cheap free-standing metal shelving and vertically mount motherboards along the shelves - awesome ventilation and looks so cool. Plus, you can put whatever you like in it - all you need is motherboards with whatever you want on them. =D

      Building a nice 'super' computer. Beowulf anyone?

    3. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by toastar · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I say get a real rack with wheels, When you move you can take it with you.

    4. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Phelan · · Score: 4, Interesting

      If he has the money to throw around then a rack made for branch offices and network closets with integrated cooling etc like a Liebert MCR would be perfect. Since its basically a plug and play configuration integrating cooling, PDUs etc.

      --
      "Nimis exaltatus rex sedet in vertice - caveat ruinam!"
    5. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Sez+Zero · · Score: 4, Funny

      Go Big or Go Home

      But... he's already gone home!

    6. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by radiumsoup · · Score: 1

      modular storage and local expansion cards work better in standardized rackable chassis... and it looks way neater than a bunch of freestanding circuit boards... so I guess you'd have to pick between cool and neat.

    7. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by flyneye · · Score: 5, Funny

      Why worry about mounting anydamn expensive thing?
      You're building a server room. Got 4 walls? STOP!
      Measure 6 ft. from the wall. Put up a wall frame, like you were gonna sheetrock it. Space the 2"x4"s on 17 3/4" centers and use woodscrews for your new 64u rows of racks. This presumes you have 8 ft. ceilings. Got slides? Put another frame 3 ft. behind it. add fans.
      Measure out another 5 or 6 ft. if you have another 11 or 12 and put in another room length row of racks. Leave one open in each for rear access. Leave two if you're fat and remove the board in the way.
      This creates easy cooling methods using at least 3 halls for this scenario.
      If you're in an office building or strip. you can come in on the weekend and tap your neighbors air conditioner to cool your server rooms. All you need is a ladder , some ducting, rivet gun, rivets and a cutoff wheel or tin snips. Send the cool air low to cool the computers and force the hot rising air out. Again duct this INTO your neighbors space, it will encourage them to turn up their air conditioner.
      We're talking about cutting costs here friend.
      You want a bonus for cutting costs? Promotion? Just save the boss money and draw up some bullshit pie chart to show him just how much. Toot your own horn.
      You just set up a kickass server room with total access for replacements and room to expand Expand EXPAND. Cheap.
      2x4s and wood screws. Ducting.

      --
      *Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
    8. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by nschubach · · Score: 4, Informative

      What the OP is doing sounds like what I'm doing. I already bought the rack and found a nice spot to put it: Under the basement stairs. It comes ready to assemble and I just didn't install the wheels. The rack is 3 feet deep and the stairs are 3 feet wide. It's the perfect place. All I have to do is re-frame the area under my stairs (there is already a roughed in wall of 2x4s) to add in a mounting location for the 12U rack. It just so happens that the stairs are in a centralized location in the house so wiring is going to be much easier. I got a 25 port switch (probably overkill) and a 25 port patch panel to accept all the wire I'll be pulling to it (and a few to spare.)

      I realize that not everyone has a basement stairway with both exposed sides, but maybe the OP didn't think about it.

      --
      Every time I start to have faith in humanity, I ruin it by driving to work between 7 and 8 am.
    9. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 1

      I wouldn't agree with the angle of your argument. An industry of modular storage and expansion cards have been built around sandardized rackable chassis, but that in no way makes them 'work better'. =)

      Also, I'm a dogged perfectionist, and even I prefer the neatness I can achieve with a custom built free-standing rack with vertically mounted motherboards - we've just been installing a large infrastructure upgrade at work (big iron overly-redundant HP blade system with fiber sans) and I still like the way my vertical rack looks more (neatness + looks) - plus, I think its far more modular than a system that ties you in to a vendor or requires big bucks to fix.

      Personal opinion though. =)

    10. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by ozmanjusri · · Score: 1

      I'll second that. I scored a 9U road case from a commissioning contract several years ago. It's done sterling duty in a couple of houses and works very well, with built in cable management. It's built like a brick dunny and looks like it'll last forever.

      --
      "I've got more toys than Teruhisa Kitahara."
    11. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Ditto parent. Seriously get the big rack.

      One thing to add.

      Make sure that you leave pull strings in your cable runs. You never know:

      1) if you are going to need more cable in the future.
      2) If you find out that you need fibre in the future.

    12. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

      ...They also have swing-out racks that you can open the front and back...

      If you are custom building your house, why not go the extra distance and build a custom closet to house your rack? Place the rack on a platform with rollers and then attach the cables from above with enough slack that you can easily roll the rack out of the closet, do the work you need to do, and then roll it back in when done.

      Don't forget to have good ventilation in the closet to vent out the heat. You might even want to run some of the air conditioning duct into the lower part of the closet to facilitate cooling.

    13. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by TWX · · Score: 4, Informative

      Or get a wall-mount cabinet with a door on the front and the back that mounts to the wall, something about 36" tall, 36" deep.

      Leave a service loop to allow the rack to swing open properly.

      I strongly recommend Cat6a with appropriate connectors. I also recommend considering running innerduct and adding pullstrings so you can later add. You might also consider pulling some OM3 or OM4 patch cables to use as horizontal fiber cable. Also pull the phone wiring to the same location, and RG6. There are modular patch panels that use keystones instead of fixed 110 blocks on the back, so one could put any of the four types of connectors into the patch panel. You would want angled faceplates in the rooms so that if you ever did use the fiber it wouldn't be at as much rich of being broken off.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    14. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Heck, the Ikea LACK side tables are perfect for holding rack mount equipment. The come in a variety of colors, and are cheap ($10 each), so you can pick up spares. A few minutes with a drill and a couple of dowels, maybe some casters, and you have a home-made rack!

      http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40104270/

    15. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by xQx · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Couldn't agree more.

      To answer the poster's direct question: Yes, I have dealt with racks that you can't get to the back of. I've dealt with racks that have the vertical rails integrated into the sides. I've dealt with half-height racks, wall mounted racks that swing out so you can get to the back of them, and I've dealt with home-made racks that have rails that bend when you hang a server from the front. I've also worked with Compaq servers with mounting brackets that don't work unless your rails are exactly the right distance apart front-to-back (meaning you need to tear down a whole rack to re-position the rails, to mount one bloody server).

      I have the following advice:

      1. DO NOT BUY WALL MOUNTED RACKS (unless you are a large corporate or a public building).
      They are ugly as sin, they are never deep enough, and in a small-business or home environment they are only good for bumping heads on. If they swing out, half the time the installer hasn't accounted for the full weight of a loaded rack and it feels like it's going to fall off the wall.They are not built to deal with the heat of POE switches, let alone servers. Unless you need the security given by them, it's cheaper, more attractive and more accessible to mount a switch vertically on a wall or in a cupboard.

      2. DO NOT BUY HALF-HEIGHT RACKS (unless you desperately need the space)
      They cost almost as much as full-height racks, they often get replaced with full-height racks after 2 years because they get full - in the end they are almost never worth it.

      3. LOOK VERY CLOSELY AT CHEAP RACKS
      A good rack will last you 10 years. A bad rack will last you 20 years and piss you off every time you go near it. Imagine mounting a full-depth POE switch to the front rail of a rack, then seeing that the back of the switch is about 2RU lower than the front, because the front vertical rail has bent under the weight. That's what happens when they make the vertical rails out of 1mm low tensile steel, not 2mm high tensile steel. Or, imagine having a server or router that has decided to put a RJ45 port on the front (usually an iLo port) and you find you have to either leave a whole RU free above the server to run the cat-5 cable back. Welcome to the joys of an APC rack, where the vertical rails are moulded to the edge of the rack.

      4. AT HOME - USE A CABINET MAKER
      If you want the best & cheapest solution - I'd build a cupboard big enough for you to put a second hand 42RU rack on wheels into it, and terminate your RJ45's on 6-gang wall outlets at the top of the cupboard. For cooling, put a vent in the top of the door and run a ducted air-con duct to the bottom of the cupboard. Then you just roll your rack out when you need it, to guests it looks like a cupboard, and the next home owner will turn it into a linen closet.
      But, if you want something that looks a million dollars, I would take the internal steel of a comms rack and mount it on rolling cupboard rails (do the maths on the weight) and integrate it into a full-height cupboard, so when you open the cupboard door the whole rack slides out for you. If you get a friendly cabinet maker to do it while you're building the house, you would probably have the whole thing done for less than the price of an APC rack.

    16. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Go small and enjoy your home.

      I have Router, switch, modem, and phone box (plus all the power supplies screwed to the wall above the top shelf in a closet. All the cat5e runs have rj45 plugs directly on the end. Slack cable is bundled and tied off. No patch panel since it's unlikely I'll need anything other than an rj45 plug on the end.

      Server is a desktop box (fractal defrine r3) in my desk, and runs many vms that can replace a lot of test boxes.

      This is the second build I've done for my own house... I had a rack and patch panel etc the first time; This setup serves me just as well.

    17. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Glendale2x · · Score: 1

      3. LOOK VERY CLOSELY AT CHEAP RACKS
      A good rack will last you 10 years. A bad rack will last you 20 years and piss you off every time you go near it. Imagine mounting a full-depth POE switch to the front rail of a rack, then seeing that the back of the switch is about 2RU lower than the front, because the front vertical rail has bent under the weight. That's what happens when they make the vertical rails out of 1mm low tensile steel, not 2mm high tensile steel. Or, imagine having a server or router that has decided to put a RJ45 port on the front (usually an iLo port) and you find you have to either leave a whole RU free above the server to run the cat-5 cable back. Welcome to the joys of an APC rack, where the vertical rails are moulded to the edge of the rack.

      What APC racks are you referring to? Even the cheapest NetShelter SX allows all vertical rails to be moved and they're thicker than 1mm. Or we have different definitions of cheap.

      --
      this is my sig
    18. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      I have a similar setup. This guy knows what he is talking about.

    19. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Where do you find a $400 42U rack? All I see new are over $1000.

    20. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by similar_name · · Score: 5, Funny

      I just nail the motherboards to the wall.

    21. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by xQx · · Score: 2

      Sorry, I was talking about two different racks - the cheap home-made ones bent, the APC ones were very well built (and were actually bloody expensive), but had the front rails built into the side wall, so you couldn't route cables between the rail and the side of the rack. (APC did this on purpose to prevent front-back airflow around equipment).

      It's kinda hard to find pictures, but if you look here:

      http://www.64bit.eu/gallery/3437/apc-netshelter-sx-42u-labels-for-rack-mount-default.jpg

      You can see there is no gap between the vertical rails and the side of the rack. Whereas, if you have a normal rack, you have a space between the doors/sides and the rails, you can route a stray Ethernet cable sideways, using 0 RU.

      http://blog.stackoverflow.com/wp-content/uploads/stack-overflow-server-rack-back-small.jpg
      http://blog.stackoverflow.com/wp-content/uploads/stack-overflow-server-rack-front-small.jpg

    22. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You missed that this is a home installation, apparently.

      You brought a sledgehammer to a glass cutting competition.

    23. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 4, Funny

      you musn't be married then. ;)

    24. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Came here to suggest this (it's what I did), was not disappointed!

    25. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by geonik · · Score: 0

      +1 to parent, he pretty much covered everything I have learned from my personal experience. I have a 48U full size rack at home, mostly for the pleasure of assembly stuff on it.

      My piece of advice, besides 1. going for the full size and 2. being careful with cheap alternatives is 3. choose a relatively bigger depth than what you normally think you need. I went for 60cm and it was barely enough - servers are quite deep, some switches too, and you have to leave room both in the front and back for the cables. My next rack will be a 80cm for these reasons.

      Oh, about the cabinet maker: If wife permits and the rack is quiet enough, you can leave it exposed right in the middle of the living room like a friend of mine did. It actually very nerdy-beautiful with all the LEDs and stuff ;-)

    26. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anne+Thwacks · · Score: 1
      I agree with all the GP said, but as for racks in the front room - you may find this is a problem when you need to upgrade the wife - which you will, if you keep the rack in the front room, or if you have children - small babies and racks of IT equipment don't mix well.

      On the plus side, if you do have a nice big rack somewhere, you can upgrade by installing a new server with new version of the OS, and migrating the data, then upgrade the old server. I do this every couple of years (Using OpenBSD on Sun Sparc hardware for maximum Nerd points) - but then, I have a whole server closet upstairs.

      --
      Sent from my ASR33 using ASCII
    27. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      pics?

    28. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by mwvdlee · · Score: 4, Funny

      or if you have children - small babies and racks of IT equipment don't mix well.

      Just mount the servers on top and mount a swing at the bottom.

      --
      Slashdot social media options: AIM, ICQ, Yahoo, Jabber and Mobile Text. Why no MySpace?
    29. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      If he's building his own house why isn't he adding a huge underground dungeon where a two sided rack will fit easily?

      --
      No sig today...
    30. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by rpresser · · Score: 2

      hirez or gtfo

    31. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by tgeek · · Score: 1

      Newegg or Amazon . . . got a 42u Startech from Amazon and it shipped free with Prime membership.

    32. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Helmer cluster anyone?

      http://helmer.sfe.se/

    33. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 1

      I'm guessing you're not a troll? My freestanding shelves are at home. I'd never implement that in some big business' server room. I think you misunderstood me. :)

    34. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by smeaggie · · Score: 1
    35. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Bad advice. Mount the servers at the bottom for ballast.

    36. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by flyneye · · Score: 1

      What, he can't have a roomful of computers because you can't imagine it?
      O.K. change the part about office building or strip to duplex or apartment building.
      Drop the part about promotion and raise and replace it with sex ( this presumes you have an impressed partner at the ready, with an interest in home budget.)
      Don't need so many computers? Don't put up so much frame.
      Don't have an imagination? Fade back and punt. Hell I dunno , try drugs.

      --
      *Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
    37. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Unless precision is a scoring factor, that's probably the best strategy!

    38. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by vlm · · Score: 2

      I did something extremely close to this in the 80s for ham radio and electronic test equipment. That was the era when the "big" equipment was being disposed of for $5 at a hamfest. That stuff is all gone now, test gear, even at hamfests, is all tiny little plastic boxes for workbench use. On the other hand, you can buy 10 year old rack mount servers for $100 with $75 shipping, which are almost 1/10th the capability of a tower/desktop that you can get for free, what a fantastic deal (can you tell I'll never go back to racks again at home?)

      The "real" way to build it is to make the worlds most narrow bookcase with solid wood sides, no back, some bracing, and a very large braced base. From extensive personal experience I can assure you that pine 2x4 sides oriented correctly can easily hold a R-390, an old HP scope, a offbrand clone of the original HP sinewave generator, a couple shelves, a couple rack mounted very high power (100 pound) power supplies... I had the misfortune of painting it flat black and my mom described it as a "gallows". You can put wheels on it, but be extremely careful as it will be heavy and its probably unrecoverable if tipped more than perhaps 10 degrees. In retrospect I would never move a loaded rack.

      I stopped rack mounting at home when it became cheaper, overall, to not rack. It probably costs at least twice as much now as just placing machines on "closet organizer" hardware, or those hardware store "500 pound shelves".

      Admittedly I do not home run all my cat-5... I have a VLAN capable switch in more or less each room, or in the basement underneath the room, you get the idea, and after repeated midnight sacrifices to the spanning tree protocol gods, so far so good for many years now. Believe it or not, you can buy small switches that draw less than an amp at 12 volts and have no fan, or at least you could when I built all this stuff. Before the VLAN switches I had plain ole switch switches. And before that, hubs. And before than, 10 meg thinnet (no kidding). And before than, a very abortive attempt at early-to-mid 90s era linux support for arcnet (which never freaking worked, and yes I know all about the special cable impedance, it was a linux side problem with known working hardware). Long runs of cat-5 are too expensive compared to my cheap labor rate at home. Unless you're running 300 foot runs at home on a regular basis its cheaper overall to just buy cables online (for gods sake, don't buy a 10 foot jumper at Best Buy for $50 which is no exaggeration, pay like $3 for it on Amazon or ebay)

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    39. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      DO NOT BUY WALL MOUNTED RACKS evein IF you are a large corporate or a public building. They are horrible to maintain even in this setting.

    40. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      Out of interest how much power does that lot use and how much heat does it generate? For me the cost of buying the equipment in the first place isn't the biggest issue, it is the on-going running costs and the noise it makes.

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    41. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by muridae · · Score: 2

      I picked up two similar to these at a thrift store for . . . let's just say less than the cost of a new video game and leave it. The ancient 10baseT hubs that were with them were marked as IRS, so government closeout probably. The top makes an excellent work surface, and the one that doesn't house working rack gear has some shelves in it to store containers full of electronic parts and pieces for future projects. University surplus auctions are another great place to get racks dirt cheap, the last I was at rarely had them going for 5$ per U height for non-enclosed, and a little more than that if you wanted wheels and doors attached.

      So make this another vote for "Buy your own, and get them with wheels." The only reason I can see to put one in permanently to the basement wall is if you were going to use the equipment on it as a selling point for the house in the future; and chances are you wouldn't be leaving all the gear in the house anyways so the next buyer wouldn't know what to do with it. If you must wire the whole house, and really want that wiring to a rack and not a wall mounted Telco-style box, then get the smallest rack and just use it for a patch panel. That you will feel comfortable leaving for the next owner, and they won't necessarily feel like they need an IT guy just to manage their house.

    42. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by nanoflower · · Score: 1

      Take a look on Newegg. I see two open air racks that are at least 42U. One by Tripplite (45U) and the other by StarTech (42U). Both are under $400. If you want a full enclosure then you are looking at close to $1000 but you don't need that for many applications, especially in the home.

    43. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by bhcompy · · Score: 1

      I'm going to go out on a limb and say you don't have cats, or at least cats with hair.

    44. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Been there but had a boss pull this maneuver in our server closet. He installed a portable AC unit then realized he had no place to vent the hot air output. His first "fix" was to poke a hole in the wall and pipe the exhaust into the neighbors space in the office building. With in a week I went into the server room, found the output hose lying on the floor and the temp completely awful for the servers; obviously the person in the other office found the hose and shoved it back through.

      I routed the vent hose up and into the plenum between the real ceiling and the false ceiling; it was the return circuit for the building AC and sucked up the waste heat quite nicely.

    45. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Will.Woodhull · · Score: 1

      This is a part of the technology I don't know and have no desire to learn. So maybe my question is stupid (there are stupid questions and I have asked them before).

      How can you possibly manage RF interference between the MBs and components in an open rack system like PP describes? Chicken wire Faraday cages?? WTF???

      --
      Will
    46. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by secret_squirrel_99 · · Score: 1

      Where do you find a $400 42U rack? All I see new are over $1000.

      Craigslist. You can find used good condition cabinets from major manufacturers for 200.00 or so pretty much any time you look.

      --
      If privacy had a tombstone it would read "We did it for your own good" . -- John Twelve Hawks
    47. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by McKing · · Score: 2

      Ya'll do realize that audio rack equipment also measures 19" across, and is 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of equivalent server room rack gear, right??

      --
      If only "common" sense was actually that common...
    48. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Jhon · · Score: 2

      "but that in no way makes them 'work better'. =) "

      I don't know... just off the top of my head, I'd say it keeps the cards from shaking (or maybe a combination of heat/cooling related expansion/contraction of the metal on the contacts) and possibly losing a connection to the motherboard over time -- or during an earthquake for example. Or maybe just a big truck going down the street one too many times.

      I'd feel a lot more "warm" and "fuzzy" knowing cards are not only attached to the motherboard, but stabilized by the chassis.

      I'd think that qualifies as 'works better'...

    49. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I think the above is excellent advice.

      I will point out a consideration to keep in mind though. If you go with a full-height 42U rack on wheels, there's a danger with unbalancing the weight if anything is on slide-rails or if you try to move it over carpet or anything else it can hang-up on, and you DO NOT WANT this thing to fall over on you. This is probably obvious and doesn't need to be said. But I've seen a lot of cases of people loading racks from the top down. IMHO, if it's not bolted to the floor, it's much better to keep the center of gravity low, and put your UPS units at the bottom, and work your way up.

      For both space and safety reasons, I opted for a half-height (22U) rack cabinet. The mistake I made was not verifying the depth and distance between the front and rear rails before picking it up on ebay. I've managed to make my gear fit, but I've had to leave the rear door off to allow equipment to stick out the back by several inches. I now have every last RU filled with something relevant, but the space restriction has also helped keep my enthusiasm for adding more gear reigned in. As a result I've switched to virtualization on a smaller number of physical boxes, and this is a good thing.

      But I digress. My point is that half-height certainly has its place, but it's worth thinking about how much space you're going to need immediately, how much room for growth you want to plan for, and how big of a space in your house will be available for it. Cooling must not be overlooked. And a full rack that is well made will definitely give you a lot fewer headaches in the long-run.

    50. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by godefroi · · Score: 1

      A good rack will last you 10 years. A bad rack will last you 20 years

      Personally, my racks don't have expiration dates. It was free (rescued it when the building I work in was being demolished), and I plan to use it for roughly the next fourty years or so. It's probably twenty or more old already.

      It doesn't smell rotten yet.

      --
      Karma: Poor (Mostly affected by lame karma-joke sigs)
    51. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Trent+Hawkins · · Score: 1

      Just make sure to do this in a basement or make sure that the floor is structuraly capable of supporting the rack weight.

      this isn't an issue with most office building but I have seen several homes where the floor has bent under the weight of a rack.

    52. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by smash · · Score: 1

      The bottom is for your UPS (with heavy lead batteries) and SAN (also with heavy lead batteries and heaps of heavy hard drives).

      --
      I run: Windows, OS X, Linux, FreeBSD. Just because you have a hammer, doesn't mean everything is a nail.
    53. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by smash · · Score: 1

      get a lockable rack?

      --
      I run: Windows, OS X, Linux, FreeBSD. Just because you have a hammer, doesn't mean everything is a nail.
    54. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I did something similar but for those advocating the basement, just make sure you understand your basement well. Many have high humidity and are prone to the occasional leak/flood. The one I did was in a house without a basement. There was a closet under the stairs but the lower level area behind the closet was walled off but otherwise usable. Knocked out the dry wall and re-framed it. To ensure access I put the rails on casters. (As many have mentioned, you can by enclosures prefabbed but many of these are expensive. Also, in my searching, most half-height or smaller enclosures (or racks) were not full-depth. I ended up buying rails and mounting them on a custom 2x4 and plywood chassis: shorter in the back, taller in front.)

      One word of warning: the area under the stairs is small. Even I, who am not overly tall or big, found it cramped working in that space. Doing this when building a house would be MUCH easier than retrofitting it later.

      Oh, and a final note: do this for you, not for resale. Unless you're leaving behind a full automation setup or other builtin home theater, you're unlikely to recoup any of your investment.

    55. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by modi123 · · Score: 1

      Beowulf anyone?

      Ha.. I prefer Windows HPC Server... A little more hobbyist orientated and it provides such easy entry!

      http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/hpc/cc453771

    56. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Why bother with 110V? All modern rack-mount equipment can work with 220V. If you're building new, go ahead and have a 220V feed installed to your server room from the electrical distribution cabinet. You'll get a better power factor and lower losses.

      And you don't need access to the back of a rack; just mount your longer equipment (servers) on slide-out rails.

    57. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Also pull the phone wiring to the same location, and RG6.

      Huh? What is "phone wiring"? Is that for those old-time landline phones that you actually had to plug into a wall? Why on earth would anyone want one of those? Does your phone also have a handle you have to rotate to call the operator?

    58. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Rob+Nance · · Score: 1

      I agree with this, or a half rack. You don't want a rack mounted or bolted down because when you go to sell someday, the likelihood of the person buying wanting a rack room over a closet is slim to none.

    59. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by sohmc · · Score: 1

      This needs to be modded up because not only did you address the concern, but you made another excellent point about resale.

      This is so important geeks may forget it. My parents new house came with cabling installed. They put the cables in an awful location, but not enough for me to complain about it. I'm so jealous of their set up that I go to my parents more often than I like to admit.

      The geek in me wants to do the same thing in my house. But the investor in me knows that the work and effort in laying all the cable is not going to be worth the payout. Right now, I just have cables hugging the crown molding. It looks horrible, but I'm not married so I don't care.

      --
      We don't live in Shouldland.
    60. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Matheus · · Score: 1

      Those instructions are very similar to something else...

      Setting up a grow room. :-)

    61. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by jimicus · · Score: 1

      Interesting, looks like Dell used the same design for a time.

      Now I think of it, I'm sure the Dell PDUs had serial numbers that looked like APC serial numbers.... I wonder if APC OEM'd the lot?

    62. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Cramer · · Score: 1

      No. If you use them for what they are designed -- WIRING -- then there's no problem with them. The problems start when people try to hang routers, pbx's, and *servers* in them. The added weigh of all that junk will pull the rack out of the wall. (the deaper the rack the less weigh it can hold.) I've seen walls bowed due to the weigh of a rack pulling on it. (and yes, there was a gap forming at the wall.)

    63. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Depending on where he lives, cell phone reception could be poor or nonexistent. For example, my wife and I are on different carriers, and we live within city limits. She gets terrible cell reception inside, and has to talk while outside to avoid dropped calls; I get excellent reception, even in the laundry room. That said, she'll just have to deal with it until her contract is up; I'm not buying a landline handset when she'll likely to choose her next carrier based on wind direction (as far as I can tell, anyway).

      Also, some potential home buyers will balk at a home which lacks built-in phone lines. Since this home is new construction, running phone wiring at the same time as other wiring won't add much cost, and it avoids silly problems at resale. Even if the submitter thinks he'll be staying in this house forever, it's a reasonable hedge against unforeseen circumstances.

      - T

    64. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Cramer · · Score: 1

      Read the instructions that come with any rack... the wheels are for moving the rack itself. NEVER attempt to roll a loaded rack. That much mass (about the same as a small car) is hard to control once it's moving; if a wheel snags something, it'll take the wheel off, bend the shit out of the rack, break the bearing, notch the wheel, tip the rack over, or any combination of those. (it'll also go through a bog standard sheet rock wall like it's not there. and as a bonus, if your hand is on that side, it's going through the wall, too.)

      [Trust me. I've seen it go wrong far too many times...]

    65. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      epending on where he lives, cell phone reception could be poor or nonexistent. For example, my wife and I are on different carriers, and we live within city limits. She gets terrible cell reception inside, and has to talk while outside to avoid dropped calls; I get excellent reception, even in the laundry room. That said, she'll just have to deal with it until her contract is up; I'm not buying a landline handset when she'll likely to choose her next carrier based on wind direction (as far as I can tell, anyway).

      You need to get an Android phone. I've got an HTC from T-mobile, and it has something called Wi-Fi Calling: when you're at home and connected to your wi-fi AP, all your calls actually go over your internet connection, not the cellular infrastructure. Then it doesn't matter how lousy the carrier's reception is inside, as long as your wi-fi reception is good. It also means you don't burn any airtime when you're talking at home, so you can go with a cheaper plan with fewer minutes.

      As for adding phone lines for future buyers living in the stone age mentally, I think it would make more sense to just make sure Cat6 is installed to every room. If someone else buys the house and is actually concerned about landlines (assuming you're not really far out in the sticks where you really need it), it's trivial to repurpose a Cat6 or other ethernet line to use for landline phones (and someone like that obviously won't be using it for networking). It doesn't work the other way.

    66. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I just nail the motherboards to the wall.

      I find that stretch-release adhesive like the type used for wall hooks works fine and you can move things around as needed! Plus.... no holes.

    67. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by plover · · Score: 1

      small babies and racks of IT equipment don't mix well.

      Thus the invention of the Molly guard.

      Even so, I have this vision of children feeding round slices of luncheon meat to the big friendly robot by pushing the button and laying them in the circular depression shape on its tongue. Probably still not a good mix.

      On the other hand, I remember playing ring-toss with the write-enable rings on some Saturdays at my dad's work. He had no problem letting a five year old larval stage geek play in the company's computer room. But I knew I wasn't allowed to touch the tape drives, or press any buttons. Except for the keypunch machine. I could push buttons and type on all the punch cards I wanted. That was awesomely cool.

      --
      John
    68. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 1

      Well, I haven't experienced any issues with RF interference. Having said that, I haven't done any rigorous testing either.

    69. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 1

      The title of summary should clear that all up for you, good sir.

    70. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by socceroos · · Score: 1

      Heh, yeah - perhaps a little too hobbyist orientated. =D

    71. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by petermgreen · · Score: 1

      This probablly varies with where you live. Here in the UK you tend to need a phone line for in with most internet packages (or at least not having a phone line doesn't save you much) and there are many cheap calling packages that only cover landline numbers. Further landline call quality is better than mobile so may as well use the landline.

      Regardless I agree cat5e/6 everywhere is the way to go for distributing communication arround the house. Still you want to make sure you have appropriate connections (or prefferablly a duct you can pull stuff through from wherever communication services are likely to enter your house to whereever your main rack is.

      --
      note: i'm known as plugwash most places but i screwd up registering that here somehow in the past and now can't register
    72. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Here in the US, landline reliability is terrible, so you're much better off with just a cellphone. Trying to call my mother on her landline seems to fail half the time, with it not ringing her phone and going to some fake voicemail box. Since so many people have switched to cell-only, the landline carriers here don't really bother to keep things up anymore, and as a result, landlines don't have the quality and reliability they had in decades past.

    73. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by petermgreen · · Score: 1

      You do realise that width is not the only charactersitic of a rack right??

      In particular rackmount servers tend to be really deep compared to pretty much every other rackmount device, so if you are going to use them in a rack that wasn't specifically designed for servers you need to be really carefull about depth.

      --
      note: i'm known as plugwash most places but i screwd up registering that here somehow in the past and now can't register
    74. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by flyneye · · Score: 1

      or a parts room
      or a chicken coop.
      only the measurements have been changed to protect the innocent.

      --
      *Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
    75. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Will.Woodhull · · Score: 1

      I don't know that a person would necessarily "experience" RFI between components on a rack that were not properly shielded from each other. Moving a cheap portable AM radio around the rack might reveal a very bad problem, but would not rule out a milder problem that could still be causing corrupted signals. The computer users would not necessarily realize things were not right since the protocols are pretty much self-healing. It would just be that all that money put into a fancy system might be buying no better throughput than a cheap system would provide, as the system would be operating at much lower than 100% of its specified efficiencies as packets and data streams are rejected and repeated, etc.

      It would be really nice if someone who knew a thing or two about signal processing in a noisy environment would jump here.

      In the meantime, I would suggest that persons interested in putting bare MBs on a rack look into the reasons why standards compliant computer cases are built to be Faraday boxes.

      --
      Will
    76. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by plover · · Score: 1

      If you've done the right thing, and mounted a sheet of 3/4" plywood on the wall before hanging the rack, you should never have this kind of problem. Even if you mount it directly on a drywall surface, you should be using appropriately sized lag screws driven directly into the studs, which would not cause a problem. (Unless your wall is of completely sub-standard construction, of course.) If space constraints are a problem and the studs don't line up with the desired location of your rack, you need to use sturdy reinforcing braces (or the aforementioned sheet of plywood) so that the weight is still carried by the wood to the studs, never by the drywall.

      Drywall does many things very well: it deadens sound, blocks light, resists fire, hides infrastructure, creates a flat paintable space for decorating, etc. One of the things it does not do well is support weight loads under tension. Hanging anything from drywall anchors (other than lightweight decorative objects) is not part of a professional installation.

      --
      John
    77. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Cramer · · Score: 1

      In most (all?) office settings, the studs are sheet metal beams. Unless you've cut a hole to put a washer and nut on the inside, screws, lag bolts, etc. will pull free. Toggle bolts against the drywall work better, but they're pulling on the drywall -- and it does have a burst strength rating. Even a properly engineered and mounted panel will have a weight limit; and it will be far, FAR, less than a free standing rack. (ps: the manufacturer also lists a max. weight rating... the APW wiring rack I have (20U? 18" depth) has a limit of 300lbs, the other 14U-24" is 100lbs. also, I pulled that APW rack off the wall by standing on the bottom rung, and it was lag bolted to the metal studs through a panel.)

    78. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by plover · · Score: 1

      Good points all. I would not personally choose a wall mounted rack unless there were space or other constraints. And I was assuming a wood frame as most residential housing in America is still constructed that way. But you can still distribute a heavier load on metal studs using a plywood backer board, though. It just takes a lot of screws.

      --
      John
    79. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hmmm, I've had exactly the opposite experience with land lines (midwest US, small city). We had it until a few months ago, and only because it was bundled with the IPTV/DSL package. My dad has had excellent reliability with his land line (FL, large town). Apparently, your local telco stinks, or perhaps you're in an apartment building with poor wiring.

      Regarding your first reply, thanks for the TMobile/Android suggestion. Unfortunately, neither will work for the wife. She's tech-averse, and finds smart phones "too complicated" and "frustrating". I couldn't justify the cost anyway, since she switches too often and tends to (unintentionally) abuse her phones - lots of drops. Plus, TMobile has spotty coverage here, even within city limits. I suppose a Verizon Android would be fine if smart phones weren't such a problem for her.

      Around here, people who still use landlines aren't considered "stone age". New construction comes with phone jacks in the usual rooms, and buyers here expect landlines, even young buyers from what I've heard. That's probably bolstered by the fact that CenturyLink offers reliable, competitive IPTV/DSL. You wouldn't reduce your home's resale value by skipping phone runs (well, I'm assuming; not a realtor), but you'd definitely reduce the appeal. And most people just wouldn't think of repurposing ethernet cable for ordinary handsets.

      - T

    80. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by crutchy · · Score: 1

      you're right; motherboards are so much more artistic than picaso anyway

    81. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by crutchy · · Score: 1

      get a real rack with wheels

      you leave my wife out of this, though i'll admit i should never have given her the car keys

    82. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      LOL

      A toy.

    83. Re:42U - Go Big or Go Home by Holi · · Score: 1

      Yeah but that's a completely different range in prices. 229 vs 999.

      --
      Sorry, teleporters just kill you and then make a copy. A perfect, soul-less copy.
  2. It can be done, but... by Manuka · · Score: 1

    Get a swing-out rack - the catch is that most wall-mount racks aren't deep enough for servers of any kind.

    1. Re:It can be done, but... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I 2nd this. I use an open frame swing out rack in my office since we don't have rack-centralized servers, just router, switch, telephony and surveillance equipment in the racks. They are perfect for just an installation. We have an 18" rack, but there are a few 24" available too

      http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/Black-Box-11U-21inH-Ultra-Wallmount-Rack/1468596.aspx?cm_mmc=ShoppingFeeds-_-GoogleBase-_-Power,%20Cooling%20_%20Racks-_-1468596__BLA-RM050A-R2

  3. Go with fiber optic by Skapare · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Go with fiber optic. Nothing fancy. Just future proofing. That or conduits with pull strings.

    Avoid wall mounts. Those are too limiting. Make space for a rack cabinet, even if a small one like 16U. Don't back it into a wall. Make sure you can move all around. And a small mini-split cooling system just for that room (it will accumulate heat if closed in).

    --
    now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
    1. Re:Go with fiber optic by Shoten · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Dude, if you think the future of connectivity is fiber, you need to leave the 90s and come join us here in 2012. I'm not sure what's so 'future proof' about a relatively temperamental connectivity media that is supported by exactly *no* household devices, and very few wifi access points. As for the "future," I would point out that every high-speed LAN technology started as fiber and then became copper...because fiber is a colossal pain in the ass compared to copper. When something consistently goes from one thing to another, this is called a "trend," and trends tell you about the future. It ain't fiber.

      --

      For your security, this post has been encrypted with ROT-13, twice.
    2. Re:Go with fiber optic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If I was building some place that I wanted to live the next 15-20 years and could get a spool cheap enough I would run fiber too to all the drops and just leave it in the wall, so 20 years from now in the slight off chance fiber is a medium you are prepared, or your turn your house into a data center. Fiber is relatively cheap, terminating it isn't though.

    3. Re:Go with fiber optic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      'a spool'...so, you're deciding on ONE type of fiber? You do realize there are more than one spec of fiber in use today...Are you picking the future-proof one?

    4. Re:Go with fiber optic by Mashiki · · Score: 1

      Fiber probably is going to be the future still, at least for "in room" high bandwidth devices. Yes it's a pain in the ass, yes it's not fun to setup and get working. But it blows the hell out of copper for terms of throughput. What I would do, is wire in both. If you have the time and money. At worst, you'll be pulling the RJ45+CAT out in 20 years anyway, so if something better than fiber comes along, you can still string and pull the new stuff through.

      Just remember that trends don't always point to the future. Up here in Canada 8-tracks were the trend, but already dead in the US. Coax based networks were a trend too, but those were replaced by the up and coming RJ45. Everyone hated the termination, T-splitters, the possibility of breaking a run by simply stringing, and so on. The real problem with fiber is the initial setup and startup cost, those fall through the floor and it'll be back in the mainstream.

      --
      Om, nomnomnom...
    5. Re:Go with fiber optic by Electricity+Likes+Me · · Score: 2

      You're far better off just making sure you can actually get at the wiring relatively easily. If there's one thing I've learned about home wiring, is that the more sure you are that you'll never change something, the more likely it is that you have to get in their with the hammer-drill to try and change it later on.

      I've had in-wall network cables go bad too - at the end of the day, you want your stuff to be accessible for as much of the run as possible. If you're building new, there's really no excuse for not provisioning that way.

    6. Re:Go with fiber optic by the+eric+conspiracy · · Score: 2

      Conduits definitely. Nobody knows what the future will bring, and even if it's optical the likelihood is that it will be an optical format that doesn't exist today.

    7. Re:Go with fiber optic by bjwest · · Score: 1

      It would be cheaper to run conduit with copper now, and upgrade to fiber if/when it becomes feasible and affordable, then to run both copper and fiber now.

      --

      --- Keep the choice with the user..
    8. Re:Go with fiber optic by Shatrat · · Score: 1

      Fiber to the prem is rolling out and grey SFPs cost around $50 as commodities. How long do you think the gap between the FTTH demarc and the customer prem equipment is going to remain copper? 5 years, sure, 10 maybe, 15 doubtful.

      Also, as a telco guy, copper is a much huger pain in the ass when you are competent in using both media.

      --
      09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
    9. Re:Go with fiber optic by LordLimecat · · Score: 1

      But it blows the hell out of copper for terms of throughput.

      That sort of depends on your criteria.

      At worst, you'll be pulling the RJ45+CAT out in 20 years anyway, so if something better than fiber comes along, you can still string and pull the new stuff through.

      CAT5e, CAT6, and CAT6A are all capable of 10gbps (higher standard=longer haul 10gbit), and I really doubt thats going to be considered "outdated" in 10 years. It might become the "current", but I dont see the average household needing 10gbit when most home computers can barely find a use for gigabit. Dont kid yourself, gigabit is really only useful for niche home applications once you get out of the business realm.

      Just remember that trends don't always point to the future.

      Presumably, when the future arrives, it will be a hell of a lot less expensive than cabling the whole house for fiber. For now, drop Cat6 everywhere and leave fiber-line pull cable to allow for easy rewiring.

    10. Re:Go with fiber optic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Fiber is future-proof because it can transmit unlimited wavelengths of visible light. Is only dependent on sensitivity and accuracy of transmitting and receiving equipment. Use prism to combine/separate wavelengths of light and have unlimited channels down your existing fiber. Only dependent on your current tech.

    11. Re:Go with fiber optic by LordLimecat · · Score: 1

      The primary benefits of fiber are lower interference, and thus longer transmission distances. Neither of those are super-big concerns in the house, and the ease of CAT5e+ cabling blows most other concerns out of the wire. Easy to run, repair, terminate, and interoperable with basically every networkable device out there? Yes please.

      copper is a much huger pain in the ass when you are competent in using both media.

      I dont have experience terminating fiber, but I would be suprised if that were true. Any dummy with $20 can start terminating CAT5 and hooking it up to devices; is the same true with fiber?

    12. Re:Go with fiber optic by green1 · · Score: 5, Informative

      Conduits, even in new houses are expensive and difficult to install to every jack, and quite frankly, overkill.
      As a telco field installer here is my recommendation to everyone who asks about construction or renovation:
      - 2 cat5 and 2 coax to every place you could possibly ever want a TV or computer (and a minimum of one set to every room in the house)
      - drop ceiling in the basement. (if you finish the basement at all, and there better be one, at least a crawl space)
      - actual conduit, with as few bends as possible, as short as possible, and at least 1" diameter between the outside of the house where the telco connects, and the main panel in the basement where everything terminates
      - clear access and several square feet of free backboard where everything terminates. (and a power outlet, for the love of all things holy, let us have a power outlet!)

      my reasoning:
      - Too many existing houses have only coax and cat5, any new technology that is wide spread WILL find a way to use it, or will go wireless, If they don't, they'll never get the market share.
      - It's amazing how much wiring you can do, even on the top floor of a multi-story house, as long as the basement ceiling is accessible, if I need to run new wires to somewhere I cringe when i see a drywalled basement ceiling.
      - This is the one place where it is absolutely critical to run conduit, luckily when done right this conduit is only 1' long. (and if you're one of those builders that puts the service entrance on the opposite side of the house from where you put the main panel... I hate you, I hate you, I hate you!)
      - This is where the changes in technology will be, and whatever the future brings, people will need to get at it and work on it. (You wouldn't believe how many people drywall over the termination block with the large sign that says "WARNING: leave free access to this connection point at all times")

      As for racking, if you have the space, put whatever you want in it, but generally for the amount of equipment likely to be in your home, a shelf somewhere near the main panel is probably sufficient, even for a rack mount server and switch. I don't recommend doing anything that denies you access to the back of a rack, but often you can get them on swingouts of one form or other. We actually have a place in our city where our company has built what they call a WIC (Walk In Cabinet) which is really somewhat of a concrete bunker. It houses the telco end ADSL equipment, as well as other telco gear and such. The racks are all against the wall as the place is only about 6' - 8' wide with 2 rows of racks and a hall down the middle. all the racks have a hinge on one side and a wheel on the other so you can swing them open to get at the back (thereby blocking the aisle completely) (all cables properly dressed to the hinge side) these work well for the tight space (though I have some choice words for the person who thought this whole structure was a good idea... it has a ladder to get in to it for goodness sake, and the door at the top is only 3 feet tall! (not to mention that the punchdown blocks for the telcom circuits use a different punch tool than any other place in the city...))

    13. Re:Go with fiber optic by CanHasDIY · · Score: 1

      Hmm, that explains all the AT&T trucks in my neighborhood installing fiber to the MPOE...

      Seriously, though, take it from a guy who has installed (and terminated) quite a bit of fiber: it isn't that working with fiber is "a colossal pain in the ass" - once you know what you're doing (which, for me, didn't take long, though YMMV), it's extremely easy to run and work with, albeit termination tends to be a bit time consuming.

      No, the problem with fiber is the expense. Even if you can get 1000' rolls for dirt cheap, the equipment to terminate, as well as the devices needed to convert the signal, can be astronomical in price. The Fujikura 50S fusion splicer I used to use at my old job runs about $9,000 for a refurb. Granted, you can always use mechanical splices, which are cheaper but less reliable, but I got spoiled with the fusion splicer. Those things are bitchin' to operate.

      Even if you could rent a splicer on the low-low, the gigabit media converters run around $125 each, and you need 2 for each circuit. In a 2 bedroom house, including the 4 ports submitter said they wanted in the media area, you're looking at a minimum of $6,000 in converters alone. Jump to 10Gb, and the cost of the media converters more than doubles. Might work if the guy building the house has more money than sense, but realistically gigabit over copper is more than enough for the needs of a typical household and is far cheaper to install.

      --
      An enigma, wrapped in a riddle, shrouded in bacon and cheese
    14. Re:Go with fiber optic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Uhm.. I have fiber to my house. It comes to the basement, where it is converted to VHSDSL (or whatever the high-speed very short distance DSL is called), and comes up to my room, where it is converted to Ethernet (Where it goes into my router and is converted to WiFi!)

      Point being: Most people don't even need wire, but nobody needs fiber inside. Ethernet is plenty fast for short-distance use. You can buy some Cat6 cables and be food for a long time I think. Optical has more of an advantage over longer distances.

    15. Re:Go with fiber optic by 517714 · · Score: 0

      I dont see the average household needing 10gbit when most home computers can barely find a use for gigabit. Dont kid yourself, gigabit is really only useful for niche home applications once you get out of the business realm.

      Yes, and "640K ought to be enough for anybody." Bill Gates didn't say it and he knew better, shouldn't you?

      --
      The US government have made it clear that we have no inalienable rights; any we do not defend vigorously will be taken.
    16. Re:Go with fiber optic by Kjella · · Score: 1

      GigE is 1000 Mbit/s, a BluRay (compressed) is up to 54 Mbit/s. Make that 4K and maybe it'll be 200 Mbit/s, but it still won't hit the limit and there's always 10G, even over RJ-45. The only thing that makes you need more in the home is if you're using a display cable, but then neither 10G nor fiber is likely to be any good. Then probably a DisplayPort cable (up to 4096 x 2160 x 30bpp @ 60Hz) is as close to futureproof as you get.

      --
      Live today, because you never know what tomorrow brings
    17. Re:Go with fiber optic by arth1 · · Score: 2

      But it blows the hell out of copper for terms of throughput.

      That sort of depends on your criteria.

      Most certainly it does. I go with copper over fiber because the only time I saturate the GbE is during backups, and they run at night when it doesn't matter whether the job takes half an hour extra. The rest of the time, what matters in my case is latency, and copper offers lower latency.
      Especially over long distances, because the speed of light through fiber optics is lower than the speed of electricity through copper, but even for home LANs where this is irrelevant, because the extra steps to handle the optical signal add latency.

      Add that you'll need RJ45 jacks anyhow, because most devices you're going to plug in are going to use TP Ethernet. Oh, and Cat5e is far easier to handle than Cat6 and fiber - it bends sharper, for one thing, and you can easily and cheaply terminate it yourself at the length you want (except very short).
      And it does double duty as an excellent bi-wired speaker cable with low cross-talk.

    18. Re:Go with fiber optic by blackicye · · Score: 1

      Dude, if you think the future of connectivity is fiber, you need to leave the 90s and come join us here in 2012. I'm not sure what's so 'future proof' about a relatively temperamental connectivity media that is supported by exactly *no* household devices, and very few wifi access points. As for the "future," I would point out that every high-speed LAN technology started as fiber and then became copper...because fiber is a colossal pain in the ass compared to copper. When something consistently goes from one thing to another, this is called a "trend," and trends tell you about the future. It ain't fiber.

      Fiber is what the countries with the (presently) fastest residential user internet infrastructure in the world are using.

      Singapore is presently rolling out it's nation wide fiber network and somewhere close to 70% of the households have been fiber connected.
      95% of the households islandwide are scheduled/projected to be connected by the end of 2012.

      I recently had fiber installed in my home, though 1000Mbps is an option at $319 per month, I opted to go for 100Mbps for $47 per month.

    19. Re:Go with fiber optic by RotateLeftByte · · Score: 1

      I picked up 100m or Single Mode fibre and 50M of multi-mode at a bankruptcy auction for $200 about 6 months ago. I wasn't really interested in the Fibre when I went to the auction but got outbid on a couple of 1U DL380's still in their original packaging. I also got a load of f/O wall plates for $20. The auctioneer just wanted to get rid of them at the end of the sale.
      I laid two Cat6e cables plus two runs of both fibre when I moved my rack out into the garage (detached).
      At the moment, the F/O is unterminated but when I can pick up a decent F/O switch that is silent I'll start to use it instead of the Cat6.

      I've also been looking at fanless servers. There are a good number around these days. I have fandless NAS in my rack with 10Tb of storage. I guess that as I'm getting older, the noise level is becoming more important. I'm willing to sacrifice some performance for peace and quiet.

      --
      I'd rather be riding my '63 Triumph T120.
    20. Re:Go with fiber optic by adolf · · Score: 1

      And it does double duty as an excellent bi-wired speaker cable with low cross-talk.

      If by "excellent" you mean "has capacitance issues which are such that [many] solid state power amplifiers will go into fits of high-frequency oscillation of sufficient magnitude to nuke the voice coil of a tweeter," then you're spot-on.

      (I'd not be so snarky about this had I not seen this problem first hand. It was repeatable, and expensive, and was completely eliminated by using a length of zip cord in lieu of network cable[1]. Please never do this. Even in a pinch. Thank you.)

      [1]: Yes, using an amplifier not prone to oscillation would certainly also be a fine fix for the issue, but, seriously. You're potentially doing yourself the opposite of a favor by using cat 3/5/5e/6 as speaker wire. Even a pair of coat hangers with some electrical tape wrapped around them is a less destructive means of connection.

    21. Re:Go with fiber optic by Chas · · Score: 1

      Dude, if you think the future of connectivity is fiber, you need to leave the 90s and come join us here in 2012. I'm not sure what's so 'future proof' about a relatively temperamental connectivity media that is supported by exactly *no* household devices, and very few wifi access points. As for the "future," I would point out that every high-speed LAN technology started as fiber and then became copper...because fiber is a colossal pain in the ass compared to copper. When something consistently goes from one thing to another, this is called a "trend," and trends tell you about the future. It ain't fiber.

      Fiber is what the countries with the (presently) fastest residential user internet infrastructure in the world are using.

      Singapore is presently rolling out it's nation wide fiber network and somewhere close to 70% of the households have been fiber connected.
      95% of the households islandwide are scheduled/projected to be connected by the end of 2012.

      I recently had fiber installed in my home, though 1000Mbps is an option at $319 per month, I opted to go for 100Mbps for $47 per month.

      You're talking about fiber-to-premises.

      So your long-haul connection is fiber.

      Once it gets into your home and goes through the physical bridge device, it's going out to your computer either on copper or wireless.

      They're talking about wiring the home itself with fiber. Which is expensive overkill and adds nothing to the venture other than cost.

      CAT6 and 1Gbps are several orders of magnitude cheaper than a full in-house fiber setup and deliver identical or superior performance to Gigabit fiber.

      --


      Chas - The one, the only.
      THANK GOD!!!
    22. Re:Go with fiber optic by epiphani · · Score: 2

      Conduits, even in new houses are expensive and difficult to install to every jack, and quite frankly, overkill.

      I looked at conduit when I was rewiring my house. A buddy of mine is an electrician and had a very simple solution that circumvents most of the cost that you're referring to: central vac piping for conduits. It's low power wiring, so it's legal - and you don't need super clean endpoints - just bring the pipe close to the box and be done with.

      --
      .
    23. Re:Go with fiber optic by tibit · · Score: 1

      the extra steps to handle the optical signal add latency

      Are you serious? The optical-to-electrical transducers maybe would add a couple bit times worth of delay. It's immaterial.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    24. Re:Go with fiber optic by blackicye · · Score: 1

      You're talking about fiber-to-premises.

      So your long-haul connection is fiber.

      Once it gets into your home and goes through the physical bridge device, it's going out to your computer either on copper or wireless.

      They're talking about wiring the home itself with fiber. Which is expensive overkill and adds nothing to the venture other than cost.

      CAT6 and 1Gbps are several orders of magnitude cheaper than a full in-house fiber setup and deliver identical or superior performance to Gigabit fiber.

      Ah internally I agree, I don't even bother with CAT6, my residential runs are all quality CAT5E, and I haven't had problems running it at gigabit speeds.

    25. Re:Go with fiber optic by arth1 · · Score: 1

      Are you serious? The optical-to-electrical transducers maybe would add a couple bit times worth of delay. It's immaterial.

      Yes, I'm very serious, and it's quite a bit more involved than that. If you subtract the cable length latency, the operational latency you're left with is typically around five times higher for fiber than cable, for equipment that mere mortals can purchase.

      The main reason why switching to fiber can reduce latency times is because you redo your network to have as few conversion points (routers, switches, bridges, hubs) as at all possible, because of the extra latency you add. You would, of course, get the same benefit if you did the same to a copper network.

      I sit here with two servers that both are hooked up to two networks, one with GbE and one with fiber. The switches are on top of each other, and the cable length is about the same.

      ping with 1000 base TX:
      10 packets transmitted, 10 received, 0% packet loss, time 9000ms
      rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 0.177/0.190/0.208/0.012 ms

      ping with 1000 base FX:
      10 packets transmitted, 10 received, 0% packet loss, time 9000ms
      rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 0.263/0.272/0.297/0.014 ms

      So, yes, really, in my case, copper has less latency.

    26. Re:Go with fiber optic by vlm · · Score: 1

      I guess that as I'm getting older, the noise level is becoming more important. I'm willing to sacrifice some performance for peace and quiet.

      I've found as I get older, the housing situation gets bigger. Server gear next to my head in my teenage bedroom, thats not gonna work. 50 feet away on a different floor in the literal opposite corner of my house? Never heard it at night.

      Try to keep it quieter than the clothes dryer, then mount it next to the clothes dryer. My basement dehumidifier is currently the loudest continuously operating electrical device I own and its also... right in front of the basement data closet/shelf/whatever.

      At one point I had some 90s era SMP giant boxes that I got surplus which were so loud hearing protection was required (no kidding), so I built a little cave lined with acoustic tiles underneath the basement stairs and put the servers up on bricks in case of basement flooding (which happened a few times, no damage). Sounded like an electric leafblower was running continuously. Also it used about $50 of electricity per month, which I was willing to pay, for awhile.

      Noise from the gear is the least of my worries, most normal appliances are louder.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    27. Re:Go with fiber optic by vlm · · Score: 1

      Yes, but you have to compare apples to apples. The cat-5 guy isn't getting a scanner device for $20, he's just smacking it into place and seeing if it works. Guess -n- check. You CAN do fiber that way. The fact that most fiber people use a $7K OTDR is about as irrelevant to the discussion as most Professional cat-5 installers use a $3K TDR/scanner machine.

      A "real" greenlee fiber termination kit is about a kilobuck and a "real" greenlee cat5 termination kit is about a quarter kilobuck. So $20 for fiber termination means you'll be doing about as good of a job on fiber as a guy using a $5 kit would do on cat-5, in other words, a really poor job, but it'll work, at least most of the time, for a while, probably without damaging yourself or other equipment too often...

      you need a way to strip insulation, the amateur way is a pocket knife, then you need a get the coating/buffer tube off, again the pocket knife. You "need" a scribe but if time is not money you can get away with a glass cutter or a sharp carbide tool bit from "anything carbide" in the store. I'm thinking $5 for good safety glasses, $5 for a pocket knife, $10 for glasscutter/carbide whatever and salestax. It'll be a tedious pain in the ass, but it'll eventually work. I would never do this at work, where time is money, but as a dare at home, maybe...

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    28. Re:Go with fiber optic by vlm · · Score: 2

      Fiber is what the countries with the (presently) fastest residential user internet infrastructure in the world are using.

      Ah but fiber is lightning and EMI proof. Speed is simply not relevant. more than 2 decades ago my employer at the time used ether-fiber converters on the factory floor for obvious reasons, at a whopping 10 megabits/sec. Supposedly they were replacing the gear connecting the arcwelding shop every week until they put in the fiber.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    29. Re:Go with fiber optic by tibit · · Score: 1

      Do the test by directly connecting the servers to each other; if you give the ports their own IP it won't affect anything else. For all I know the switches may be configured differently, or do some extra processing, or who knows what. All I know is that I don't see such differences merely due to switching the medium. Sure the fiberoptic is somewhat slower than copper due to different propagation speed, but that's all there should be to it, and it doesn't matter much within a wiring closet. Optical fiber propagates around 200m/us.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    30. Re:Go with fiber optic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      fiber is lightning and EMI proof.

      That's true, but so is conduit, and conduit with pull-strings is also future proof. (and vandal/toddler resistant).

      Conduit's not worth retrofitting into old construction, usually, but it's awesome in a new build. And cheap, too.

    31. Re:Go with fiber optic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Running copper all throughout the house makes a nice lightning rod to fry your switch. Fiber doesn't.

    32. Re:Go with fiber optic by green1 · · Score: 1

      Its still costly in terms of manhours, and a pain in outside insulated walls. And if you already have coax, and cat5, its highly unlikely you'll ever end up using it anyway. Might be good in a couple of isolated spots like a home theatre room, or some builders are running one from the basement to the attic, but I wouldn't be putting them at every outlet.

    33. Re:Go with fiber optic by LordLimecat · · Score: 1

      Unless you want a super-high-end media tester that can test all 7 layers of OSI, you arent spending $3k on a cat5e check. Best Buy has sufficient cable testers for about $20. For $80 you can get one that does TDR and tells you the length of the cable, plus where any shorts are. For $500 you can get one that does Layer 7, checking DHCP and pinging.

      What are the prices for a similar fiber checker?

      Basically every $20 Cat5 crimper Ive seen has one side for stripping the cable which works great. Here you go:
      http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10509&cs_id=1050901&p_id=3350&seq=1&format=2
      Ive got one, it works fantastic, and its only $11.

    34. Re:Go with fiber optic by LordLimecat · · Score: 1

      Most home users have gone from 100mbit to 54mbit WiFi. Most home users are throttled not by the speed of the internal physical layer, but by their downstream ISP, which is usually in the 10-50mbit range.

      Cabling is mostly nice for things like TVs, printers, etc-- appliances that you want to "just work" without having to guess if something went wrong with its wifi. 100mbit is really overkill for a home printer or TV.

      Having said that I would never run less than Cat5e or Cat6 in a home because of the trouble of rewiring, but its really overkill. Run 2 CAT6s to where your TV is, and you can now run HDMI over ethernet at up to 100m (?) lengths, which should be plenty for the forseeable future.

    35. Re:Go with fiber optic by Cid+Highwind · · Score: 1

      "How long do you think the gap between the FTTH demarc and the customer prem equipment is going to remain copper? 5 years, sure, 10 maybe, 15 doubtful."

      Until it's replaced by something wireless. In 15 years, the only physical ports you're going to see on "consumer" hardware will be for power cords.

      --
      0 1 - just my two bits
    36. Re:Go with fiber optic by vlm · · Score: 1

      I realize I'm posting way late to this thread, but fiber is ground loop proof... copper, in or out of conduit, is not. I think that is what was killing the gear in the welding shop as they had some whacked out power wiring fed off a different transformer than the offices, and obviously had some severe grounding issues.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    37. Re:Go with fiber optic by cboslin · · Score: 1

      Fiber is what the countries with the (presently) fastest residential user internet infrastructure in the world are using.

      Singapore is presently rolling out it's nation wide fiber network and somewhere close to 70% of the households have been fiber connected. 95% of the households islandwide are scheduled/projected to be connected by the end of 2012.

      I recently had fiber installed in my home, though 1000Mbps is an option at $319 per month, I opted to go for 100Mbps for $47 per month.

      Seems silly to spend money on bandwidth for your home if your provider will not give you even Broadband level bandwidth to begin with. Such would be my decision point when considering Fiber runs to my server rack in my home versus Cat5/Cat6.

      You must be one of the lucky few that live in one of less than 30 United States cities/communities that offer Fiber To The Home (FTTH)...I am envious and planning to fix my envy by relocating to/near one of them in the future specifically for Synchronous FTTH, basically you get the same bandwidth upstream as downstream, nothing throttled either upstream or downstream. (FIOS does not qualify, however is better than cable, as long as you resign yourself to living with the scarcity myth and perpetual increases in prices over time for your family. Heck given the throttling/restricting of upstream bandwidth specifically, DSL is better than cable...for the price of one Cable Internet connection you could afford 2 DSL connections, preferably through two different providers.)

      If you do not live in one of the communities on that map, how much did it cost you to run your Fiber? How did you get your local Telco to agree, as this is extremely rare and most will not? In fact they spend billions every year to prevent people living in many states (http://www.muninetworks.org/communitymap) 19 US States at last count from even getting FTTH, effectively preventing competition.

      I understand costs of a single FTTH run between $1,500.00 and $3,000.00 from your home to the Telco Switching station. The cities that split the cost of the FTTH over the last mile to their townspeople's home see an increase in economic activity, jobs, businesses relocating and springing up for the FTTH infrastructure. Of course this adds $5,000 to the value of the home should you sale it one day, better than most home improvement projects as it actually adds value to the home, assuming you can get it (http://www.muninetworks.org/communitymap) many cannot.

      If you do not live in one of the less than 30 communities that have FTTH you should get a DD-WRT, Tomato or OpenWRT firmware supported router and see your actual bandwidth in real time, as over 90% of Cable Internet providers are throttled to less than Broadband speeds (FCC definition is 768Kbps) except when the customer runs the lying speed test. I see well below 300K/100K the majority of time, often bandwidth is throttled to less than 101K/30K, which is just pathetic and sad as of 2012. One thing is for sure, by any measure/definition, its NOT BROADBAND.

      Fiber is what the countries with the (presently) fastest residential user internet infrastructure in the world are using.

      When Japan got 100Mb/100Mb FTTH back in the year 2000, they determined it cost them approx .50 cents per Gbps to deliver the service. Thus when 1000Mb/1000Mb (1 Gbps) was rolled out a few years later, the price for consumers actually went down, not up.

      If Americans started throwing/voting politicians out of offi

  4. Hinged by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Just the the wall mount rack that is hinged. The whole thing swings out for rear access.

    1. Re:Hinged by larry+bagina · · Score: 5, Funny

      He's talking about a server, not a sex dungeon.

      --
      Do you even lift?

      These aren't the 'roids you're looking for.

    2. Re:Hinged by NFN_NLN · · Score: 2

      He's talking about a server, not a sex dungeon.

      Meh, better to think ahead. Otherwise you'll end up retro-fitting a sex dungeon after... at greater expense. Just ask the CEO of Broadcom: "Billionaire sought secret lair for sex, drugs, complaint says"

      http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-nicholas18jul18,0,7022711.story

    3. Re:Hinged by slazzy · · Score: 1

      Hmm, maybe a server, cameras and a sex dungeon. ... profit?

      --
      Website Just Down For Me? Find out
    4. Re:Hinged by techno-vampire · · Score: 1

      It all depends. If the server's going to have a name like pr0n.example.com, he might as well kill two birds with one stone.

      --
      Good, inexpensive web hosting
    5. Re:Hinged by geekgirlandrea · · Score: 1

      Pfft, what a boring distinction to make. A *proper* home server room would combine the functions of both. Haven't you ever heard of a cat5-o'-nine-tails?

    6. Re:Hinged by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "Billionaire sought secret lair for sex, drugs, complaint says"

      Why would anyone complain about that? If he were seeking an "exposed front yard" for sex and drugs, then, yeah, I could see a problem developing.

  5. Portable half-rack by xzvf · · Score: 2

    Assuming that you aren't installing raised floors and a HVAC unit, there are plenty of racks, both full and half hight available. Or you can look at portable rack systems for shows. You can hide it in a closet (well ventilated) and pull it out to work on it.

    1. Re:Portable half-rack by sunderland56 · · Score: 2

      Portable is key when you want to resell your house. Unless you can find a like-minded nerd, anything screwed in to the walls is going to turn off buyers.

    2. Re:Portable half-rack by INeededALogin · · Score: 1

      Portable is key when you want to resell your house. Unless you can find a like-minded nerd, anything screwed in to the walls is going to turn off buyers.

      I think it depends on how it is installed. I used a rack in my old house for Audio/Video Equipment for the theater room. The door of the rack was framed so it acted like a cabinet. Perhaps this is why it took so long to sell my house:-P

    3. Re:Portable half-rack by vlm · · Score: 1

      Portable is key when you want to resell your house. Unless you can find a like-minded nerd, anything screwed in to the walls is going to turn off buyers.

      Oh please. Talk to generations of ham radio guys about "home modification issues".

      If you screwed something into the wall, unlike chicks, its pretty easy to unscrew and its as if it never happened. Even holes can be patched.

      IF you're taking buyers thru before you bother cleaning up (why? so they can see your dirty underwear laying on the bedroom floor?) then you're screwed. Everyone else will glance, say, oh nice, a smooth freshly painted wall, and move on.

      When you install the reinforced concrete footings for three 50 foot ham radio antenna towers in the middle of the backyard and trench conduit from them into the basement thru a 2 foot diameter hole in the basement wall, then you have the right to complain on /. about how hard it'll be to sell the house... till then...

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
  6. Hinged by markdavis · · Score: 1

    We use wall mounted racks that swing out (hinged) so the back is accessible. They are available in just about any size you like. I highly recommend this if you do want to mount on a wall. Having no easy access to the back of a wall mounted rack is really a pain in the ***.

  7. I'd want backside access... by JoeMerchant · · Score: 1

    My rack could "swing out" from the wall to get at the backside, I had it mounted on the side wall of a closet.

    1. Re:I'd want backside access... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      at my home, my wife and I both have racks, they're pretty old now. My rack is about half the size of my wife's rack, but I like to give my wife's rack
      more maintenance, usually I need to lay my hands on her rack and do something about once a week. She's always happy after her rack is worked on.
      I don't pay much attention to my own rack. And as a bonus, her rack does swing away, it goes to the right or to the left, which is great, such easy backside access that way.

  8. Yeah, go with your gut! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Those wall mounted racks are generally for patch panels/switches/kvms/etc.. would definitely get something that sits on the floor if you want to put servers in there. You can probably get away with one (if you have the depth) .. but for the minor added cost, I'd go with a basic 4 post open floor mount rack.

    Either way, there is absolutely no need to guess here. Any network rack or enclosure will advertise a load/weight limit. Add up the weight of your gear and subtract it from said advertised limit. If it's less than 0, get something sturdier!

    (I'll also throw out there, some of the wall mounted units can swing out for access to the back.. worth it if you are using punchdown based patch panels.. probably not worth it otherwise)

    One other caution.. make sure you've got actual studs where you plan on hanging this thing. Builders are getting cheap.. and your wallmount racks weight capacity is only as good as what your wall can handle!

    I'd also be concerned with noise. I have to assume (though this is guess work) that mounting noisy equiptment directly to a wall is not going to end well.

  9. Simply Put: Hell No by daphx86 · · Score: 4, Informative

    At work we have 1U servers mounted on a two post rack. Every time I have to do any kind of work on the rack I basically have to do yoga to get at the back of the rack.

    As nice as it is to get a full body workout every time something needs to be added to or removed from the rack, I would strongly suggest you avoid racks that can't be accessed from the back like the plague.

    On the upside I have discovered unique ways to string together curse words while fumbling behind the rack.

  10. Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs by Joe_Dragon · · Score: 1

    Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs

    1. Re:Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs by puck01 · · Score: 2

      Agreed. I have two runs of RG-6 to each room in my house plus two runs of Cat6a. Use quad shielded RG-6 coax, btw, its a must for some systems such as satellite. Doing this now will prevent lazy installers from drilling holes all over your house later

    2. Re:Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs by FireFury03 · · Score: 2

      Of just terminate your satellite runs at your cabinet for easy access to your Mythbackend. The frontends can all then just stream straight over ethernet.

    3. Re:Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs by mikael_j · · Score: 1

      Coax? Who still uses coax for anything?

      Maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way as someone who doesn't even own a TV but wouldn't it be more future-proof to use something a little bit more modern rather than assume that standard broadcast TV will be a major priority in years to come?

      Personally I just use HDMI from the machine that plays video (and sits in my computer room rather than the living room) to my projector and then I control playback with either a wireless keyboard + mouse or my smartphone. Obviously if your wiring closet/rack is far from the room you want to watch media in then you'll be limited to using a wifi-connected tablet or smartphone but this works really well (not quite as much utility as keyboard + mouse but miles ahead of a TV with a remote).

      --
      Greylisting is to SMTP as NAT is to IPv4
    4. Re:Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs by operagost · · Score: 1

      RG6 can handle all modern HD signals and costs a lot less than HDMI cable.

      --

      Gamingmuseum.com: Give your 3D accelerator a rest.
    5. Re:Also plan for RG-6 for cable / satellite runs by mikael_j · · Score: 1

      Still, the only place I've seen coax in a while is in installations for TV (cable or satellite). It just seems to me like it might make more sense to skip it (or just have coax running to your server/wiring closet and convert it to something a bit more computer friendly there (once again, I don't watch TV but IIRC there are definitely solutions for integrating TV into various "media center" software solutions).

      Why install a bunch of outdated cables just because they're slightly cheaper than newer ones?

      --
      Greylisting is to SMTP as NAT is to IPv4
  11. tele com rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    your dealing with telecom racks which probably don't have back rails for the servers, look somewhere else and get a good rack, buy one and have the contractor install it that way there is no question.

  12. Cooling? by n5vb · · Score: 1

    Hoping the closet you converted has an exterior facing wall where you can install a dedicated window AC unit. You'd be surprised how much heat can come out of even one rackmount server unit..

    1. Re:Cooling? by farnsaw · · Score: 1

      He already stated that it is a self built low power unit so it should not need a dedicated AC unit, but good ventilation is a must as well as in a cool location, such as the basement will help. He should keep it off the floor if it is in the basement... flooding happens.

      --
      "Computer Scientists can count to 1024 on their fingers" (non-mutant, non-mutilatated, human computer scientists)
    2. Re:Cooling? by MachDelta · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I always wondered if a home server could be water cooled with the cold water supply that ran into your hot water tank. You could even take an old water heater, strip the burner and insulation, and use that as your supply/exchanger tank, as the hot water line won't always be running. My dad did something similar with an old water heater tank to keep the basement cooler for wine storage.
      One of these days I might have to try it.

    3. Re:Cooling? by jbeaupre · · Score: 1

      I wonder if anyone has ever converted an old refrigerator into a server closet. Sealed from dust and moisture. Sound dampening. And cool. To hell with thermal efficiency or cost effectiveness. Or ease of use.

      --
      The world is made by those who show up for the job.
    4. Re:Cooling? by bws111 · · Score: 2

      I don't think that is a good idea. Refrigerators are designed to cool the warm air that comes in when the door is open briefly, overcome any leakage through the insulation, and cool a few warmish things when they are put in. They are not designed to remove heat that is being generated inside them. I would think anything that is generating even a little heat in there is going to quickly overwhelm the cooling capacity of the fridge, and then you have an oven.

    5. Re:Cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I did a quick bit of research. It might just work for some set ups. Refrigerators can remove about 2.75 times their rated power consumption. Many are rated about 400 watts. So 1100 watts of cooling is reasonable. And maybe more. Efficiency improves as temperatures increase. The 2.75 rating is for a ~20 C temperature delta between inside and out.

      A 42U chilled rack? No way. A 6U box with low power component, it's possible.

    6. Re:Cooling? by ZorinLynx · · Score: 1

      You'd likely do just as well simply removing the compressor and coils and simply using a couple fans to replace the air in the unit every few minutes.

      Not to mention use less power.

    7. Re:Cooling? by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      It could be done, you'd just probably be looking at a short, unreliable lifespan, as you mention.

      There are refrigeration units designed for this sort of work load, but you're more likely to find them in commercial food preparation and industrial areas. Assuming you found an 'old'* one of these in the shape of a fridge, it'd work pretty good. Datacenters do it all the time with huge building sized AC systems.

      *Old being relative when it comes to high duty cycle industrial equipment.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    8. Re:Cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Or just have in-floor radiant heating. Nothing beats a 20,000-40,000lb concrete heat sink ;)

      PS. I've got one hooked up to about 20kW of thermal power (solar panels). About 2-3C temperature increase over 8h heating. So should work for some servers.

    9. Re:Cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      I once had my node 0 on the other side of the wall from a shower room with toilet. I managed to put the rad for the water cooling of my main server in the toilet's cistern. Toilet was then modded with an electronic flush rigged to a sensor which would flush the toilet when the cistern temp got too high.

      All an interesting experiment, but ultimately proved too restrictive. The coolant tubing should have been slightly longer to allow more flexibility with moving the server. Plus the mother in-law at the time got a surprise when the toilet auto flushed on her.

      D

    10. Re:Cooling? by adolf · · Score: 1

      I, myself, don't want this because exactly what I don't want want is galvanic corrosion issues due to multiple paths to ground to cause high-pressure water to flood my equipment room from the inside of the gear, out.

      Or because I don't want a water-to-water heat exchanger to isolate the cooling loops, but keep the corrosion issue.

      Or because I don't want to pay a properly certified bonding expert to understand and correct the corrosion issue.

      Or because I don't want liquid-cooled computers running wherein the liquid is so cold that it causes condensation to form inside the gear, whenever there a warm day happenswhen the ambient humidity is high and someone decides to take a shower.

      Or because I don't want complicated thermostatic valving and separate cold-water and a not-so-cold-water cooling loops to eliminate the condensation issue which can/will in ways that traditional (simple) water cooling systems cannot.

      Or, maybe just because by the time all of this is addressed and paid for and tweaked into good working order, I'll quite likely rather have a thinner wallet every month and that portion of my life back.

      Other than that, it's a nice idea. It would be absolutely wonderful to have cooling jacks built into the house that one could plug the computer into and have the waste heat efficiently recycled into something useful. Sort it out and put it together in a shiny box for less than a few hundred bucks, and I'd be interested, but otherwise I think one would have to totally and utterly marry the project in order to make it work reliably.

      Other opinions may vary. :)

    11. Re:Cooling? by adolf · · Score: 1

      More to the point (and I'm not sure what the point is, since I'm late in the thread and did not read most of it) there are rack enclosures that can be purchased off-the-shelf with heating and air conditioning built-in.

      I've not used the specific brand that I linked, but I've done some work inside of a fully-equipped all-stainless rack that stood outside in the elements, and it really was a joy to deal with. The gear inside was both clean and happy. It was approximately the same dimensions as any other computer-oriented rack.

      Best part: No re-purposing needed!

      And like any other big chunk of industrial-ish stuff with moving parts, such things do appear on the used market for all manner of reasons...

    12. Re:Cooling? by Ogi_UnixNut · · Score: 1

      Actually... yes I did. The only space I have in my flat is a cupboard which is just next to the water tank and boiler, separated by a thin piece of plasterboard. Initially I was not keen on having my servers so close to water, but the builders stuck the main electricity distribution point there, so I guess it is safe (plus I don't really have a choice, this is the only free space I got in this tiny place).

      Anyway, I drilled a hole, and pushed through two 10mm pipes, connected one to a submersible aquarium pump, and connected the other ends to a watercooled server. Works really damn well actually, the tank is huge, something like 50L, and I use water faster than it heats up even when fully pegged, so the server is usually at or below ambient temps.

      It also has the benefit that I did not have to worry about drilling ventilation holes, sticking noisy fans, etc... It just works, and well.

      I do sometimes think that, instead of piping the water straight to a server, have it pumped to a large radiator (like an old car radiator). Then have fans circulate the cold air around the server cupboard. This should allow me to make use of non-watercooled servers, but still not need to cut out vents, etc...

      Gives me the best of both worlds, because I think piping multiple servers into a water loop would be a pain (Especially if you need to disconnect one for repair/removal.

    13. Re:Cooling? by Fnord666 · · Score: 1

      Anyway, I drilled a hole, and pushed through two 10mm pipes, connected one to a submersible aquarium pump, and connected the other ends to a watercooled server. Works really damn well actually, the tank is huge, something like 50L, and I use water faster than it heats up even when fully pegged, so the server is usually at or below ambient temps.

      I hope I am reading this wrong. Are you saying that you are pumping your potable/drinking water through an aquarium pump and a server watercooling block before sending it back into the tank? Really?

      --
      'The tyrant will always find pretext for his tyranny.' - Aesop's Fables
    14. Re:Cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sounds good but you need a continual water supply to keep the computers cold. Once that hot-water tanks fills up you're just wasting water..

    15. Re:Cooling? by Ogi_UnixNut · · Score: 1

      Nope, the drinking water comes directly from the mains tap. The tank holds water that either goes to the boiler for heating, or the toilet/bathroom.

      All places here are built like that by law, you never drink water from the tank, because they tend to be open top (so all sorts of dust/dirt/stuff can fall into them) and because having still room temperature bodies of water can attract all sorts of nasty things/microbes/etc...

      I should have clarified that I guess, I just presumed it was like this everywhere :)

  13. Wheels. by MrLogic17 · · Score: 2

    Wheels.We've got racks in tight corners, and the solution was to put the rack on wheels, and a lot of slack on everything going to the rack.

    Keep in mind that the diagonal of a square is longer than the side. Leave room to rotate without mashing hands.

  14. Use drawers in the rack by garyebickford · · Score: 1

    If you use drawer slides in the rack, and use reasonable lengths for wiring, it could work. Another option would be to build a hinged frame to mount the rack on, so it can rotate out from the wall. Or, put it on/in a wall where you can open up the backside of the wall with a door that gives you access (I'm assuming the back of the rack isn't a solid panel). This would also make it easier to route cables down inside the wall.

    --
    It's easier to be a result of the past, but more fun to be a cause of the future! http://www.spacefinancegroup.com/
  15. Check Out by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Check out middle atlantic stuff. Consider either a swing out or roll out rack.
    They _will_ have something that meets your needs.

  16. Cooling issues.. by Zaelath · · Score: 1

    A switch might be able to survive in an "airing cupboard" without particular cooling but even a "quiet" 4RU server is going to produce more heat than you want in a closed cupboard.

    That said, unless you're going to die in this house, installing more than a wiring cupboard seems to be a massive waste of space that would make me want a discount on the future sale of the house.

    Put a couple of the RJ45 points in the garage and the server in there, on a shelf.

    1. Re:Cooling issues.. by hawguy · · Score: 1

      That said, unless you're going to die in this house, installing more than a wiring cupboard seems to be a massive waste of space that would make me want a discount on the future sale of the house.

      If you think you're going to die in the house, then maybe your money would be best spent guarding against that death. How about security glass for the windows, perhaps a house wide Exorcism if you think your death will come from supernatural means. A chainsaw or axe may help fend off a zombie invasion. Maybe make the home environment safer - GFCI and AFCI's on every outlet, hardwired and monitored fire alarms, fire sprinklers, sturdy handrails on stairways, shorter stairways with multiple landings to help reduce the consequences of a fall, etc. Maybe stock up on extra first aid supplies, a defibrillator, and, depending on your financial situation, perhaps a small operating room along with appropriate staff.

      These seem like a better way to spend your money if you think you're going to die in the house.

    2. Re:Cooling issues.. by klui · · Score: 1

      Unless you have an enclosed cabinet with air filters, placing delicate equipment in the garage doesn't seem like a good idea. All that dust and extra heat unless your garage is insulated.

    3. Re:Cooling issues.. by meloneg · · Score: 1

      Hmm. I don't think all of that will prevent death. Maybe delay it. Prevention is pretty much out-the-window.

      Or, are you trolling?

    4. Re:Cooling issues.. by bws111 · · Score: 1

      I can't tell if that is supposed to be humor or not, but 'die in this house' simply means that you do not intend to sell the house. All money spent on a house you are going to 'die' in is for your benefit, not resale value.

    5. Re:Cooling issues.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "die in the house" is a somewhat common American idiom, at least among those people who are moving/buying/selling etc houses. It just means that you're planning on staying there for a long time, something resembling the rest of your life.

  17. roll your own. by Maglos · · Score: 2

    make a closet, get two peices of 2"x2" angle aluminium, drill your holes, get self taping screws and firmly bolt it to your closet frame. Cantilever your equipment; just avoid heavy long 1u equipment. Option 2, go to a computer recycler, I can get a full sun rack for $150.

  18. Build Your Own by okeuday · · Score: 1

    I built a rack mounted on a dolly, using Home Depot items for about $100. It is basically a frame of pipe (normally used for natural gas) all threaded and fit together with the normal connectors, with 4 flanges on the bottom to mount to the dolly. The dolly was the cheapest available at Home Depot since casters are normally expensive, just had to take it apart and shorten the length a little, to make everything a normal rack size. It stands about 4.5 ft high and can be moved easily, which is nice when you are just moving in-between apartments.

  19. Vertical Rack by JoeRandomHacker · · Score: 2

    I have a 4U server that I built hanging vertically on the wall in my wiring closet at home using one of these: http://istarusa.com/claytek/products.php?model=WUT-40B . My case has lots of fans, so no problem moving the air vertically through it, and I left enough space below it to afford access to the connectors. They make other sizes of vertical mounts which may be more appropriate for your switch. It isn't a full rack, but it is a lot cheaper than a full rack, more practical than a full rack, and you can always upgrade later.

    1. Re:Vertical Rack by lukej · · Score: 1

      Second.

      For up to about 6-8U, vertical is great.
      http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=rack+vertical+mount

      'Fits' better in existing small rooms (i.e. closets), and still gives you plenty of access.

    2. Re:Vertical Rack by ediron2 · · Score: 1

      Thirded. Mount either so front/back are on the left and right sides (plan so your cables all go up the same side!) or with the back on top (both because airflow goes front to back and so you have easy/well-lit access to all the ports - on one wallmounted system I even mounted a cheap mirror at a 45deg angle so I could see the status LEDs from anywhere in the room)

      I did buy one of the shallow hinged racks: it holds a patch panel in my office (aka, the termination point for my in-house network). Everything else in that room is patch-corded or mounted on the wall.

      As for bandwidth, I trunked two existing houses and helped a relative run cat5e in a third new one with 5e/gig double-run to each interesting room, and regret all the extra planning and cabling for my own 2nd time: I'm using 6 of 20 wires trunked out: 2 media frontends, 2 wifi units at opposite ends of the ranch-style house, my office and a fileshare. Everything else (ipad/android/webos, phones, toys, laptops) is usually untethered (i.e., running on wifi) unless something with an ethernet port screams a need for gig or a hard wire. And I have a couple cheap 5port gig switches for lan parties, guests and project-oriented bandwidth needs.

      Look at that list again: my wifi to my ISP connections, a cluster of machines in my office that rarely eat external data at more than wifi-capable levels, and **3** boxes that talk among themselves on gig speeds. I've got 23 reservations in my DHCP registry (plus a handful of dedicated IP's) and I'm Nowhere Near needing 2 strands per room.

      Both of my residential rewires weren't trivial, but it was because I was trunking wire into existing homes. The third one was so freakin painless I'd say "whatever" and run stuff everywhere just for giggles. So in a new house: Buy a $150 spool of shielded cat5e, run two strands everywhere because selfwiring uncovered walls is fast and stinkin' cheap.

      Crosstalk in shielded twisted pair vs 60cycle AC should be almost a nonissue, but the rule of thumb I was told was 2' separation from power wherever possible and have your power/data wires pass each other as perpendicularly as possible. Avoid tight corners or accidentally crimping/damaging wires mid-strand. If someone else does the install, make that a requirement in the installation and inspect religiously.

      Oh, and I weighed how much data can scream through a gigabit pipe, the quality under mp4 codecs, and copper vs. fiber and opted to not spend $2 per foot, but check this composite cabling out: http://www.broadbandutopia.com/composite.html

    3. Re:Vertical Rack by redelm · · Score: 2

      Vertical is definitely better for only a few units. Instead of hanging from horizontal faceplates, they can also be hung flat against the wall with faceplates vertical for easier access to the back connectors. Consumer-grade switches, routers, etc can also be tacked to the plywood.

    4. Re:Vertical Rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This is the first useful suggestion i've found amongst a sea of ridiculous "i'm a bigger, badder-ass geek than you are" posts.

    5. Re:Vertical Rack by cyclomedia · · Score: 1

      My variation on this is as follows: Large slab of wood screwed to the wall. 2 chunks of wood screwed to that at about chest height, switch screwed to those with their "bottom" facing away from the wall so you can just stand there and look at it's "front". Have 2 or 3 units in a line, wires below and guided along tacks and ties. to get to the "back" you sit on the floor.

      --
      If you don't risk failure you don't risk success.
  20. Middle Atlantic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I have a EWR-12-22 from Middle Atlantic
    12 units high
    22 inches usable depth
    150 lbs capacity
    In addition to the front door, the whole unit swings out to get to the back, so it's very easy to work on.
    Just make sure it's lag-bolted to something strong :)

  21. Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by Above · · Score: 5, Informative

    I have seen wall-mount racks that side-mount to the wall, leaving the front and back of equipment accessible. That said, I'm not wild about any of the wall mount racks, at some point they will all be a pain.

    If you have the floor space a small, 4 post cabinet is the way to go. You can often find used ones around for cheap. 4 post is preferred if you're going to have any quantity of systems in them. If the system count is low, and you won't do any 1RU or 2RU systems, a 2-post telco rack is super cheap and might take up less space. I put one in a basement a few years back. 4RU's mount fine with just front rails (screwed in, not on slides of course), and switches, routers, patch panels all work fine in a 2 post setup. Run a 20A dedicated run to it with a computer grade power strip down the side and you're set for life.

    FWIW, having done a few houses, my recommendation is that each jack position get 5 cables, 3xCat5e and 2xRG6. These get terminated on a 6 position keystone, 2xRJ45 Network on top, 2x2-line RJ-11 (4C) in the middle, sharing the third Cat5 (blue/orange first jack, green/brown second), and then two RG6's get Coax jacks on the bottom.

    The wire cost is low, additional pull cost is low. You pay a small amount to terminate all of that. However, you now have more than you'll ever need everywhere. That Sat system down the road, 2xCoax, check. Desktop and VoIP phone, 2 jacks, check. Home and business land lines, check. Buy keystone rack panels for your new rack, a row of network, next to the switch, row of telephone next to some splitters and/or DSL filters (if necessary), row of cable next to splitters and amps for whatever system type you have. Below that machines as necessary.

    Far easier to pull up front than to be frustrated and without later.

    1. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I love u.

    2. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by Alan+Evans · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Here here on avoiding the wall mount rack. I didn't run quite as many cables as this poster but I did run 2xCAT6, 2xCAT3 and 2xCOAX to each location.

      In the basement I hung a piece of 2'x4' x 3/4" plywood on the wall with some cement screws and then got a surface mount CAT6 12 port punch block. A 8 way coax splitter with terminator caps. A signal amplifier and a small unmanaged gigabit switch. I haven't actually terminated the phone lines as I don't have "land line" phones anyway. I just ran the CAT3 since I was already in the walls. To hold up a "server" (purpose built PC) I bought (from a big box home improvement store) a set of "heavy duty" adjustable shelf brackets and 2x9" deep shelf.

      My motivation for going all "PC" grade stuff was that I did not want the power consumption of enterprise/datacenter class equipment. My "server" has a 300W PSU in it which is enough to drive the CPU, Mobo, drives and a few other accessories but it should be operating at about 80% capacity which is where most PSUs run most efficient. As for the switch I just bought a little 8port d-link gigabit switch which uses a 5v 1.0A wall wart. My next endevor is to plug each device in to a Kill-A-Watt to how much power each actually uses.

      "Server" specs:
      Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3
      CPU: i5-2500k (No OC)
      RAM: 16G DDR3
      HDD: 4x (1x Samsung 7200.12, 3x Samsung 7200.11) (Had to RMA one of my 7200.11s and got a 7200.12 as replacement.)

      Links (for references, not endorsements)
      Cat6 12 port punch block: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-N250-012-Mount-Feedthrough/dp/B000HZES42
      8 Way Splitter: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-PH61046-8-WAY-Cable-Splitter/dp/B0009A3IXW
      Terminator Caps http://www.computercablestore.com/Coaxial_Termination_Cap_catID3984.aspx

      My 2c.
      -Alan

    3. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This sounds like good advice for 5-8 years ago.

      3-4 cat6 and 1-2 hdmi. Forget the POTs distribution, you don't need and and won't miss it. If you insist on a landline there are plenty of cordless phones that require a single base station in the house and have multiple chargers handsets around the house. Same for VOIP.

      RG6 is becoming optional too, my last cable box worked over RG45, and why put a box in every room anyways? Just set up hdmi distribution, then you can have access to everything in any room. They even sell batteries that convert any remote to an RF remote, so no special remotes required.

    4. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Agree with this comment. Much easier to run additional wire during construction than after. Look into HDMI over Ethernet and you will be tempted to centralize all your AV equipment as well.

    5. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by Above · · Score: 1

      Cat6 makes no sense. Cat5e is fine for 1G ethernet. If you want to be ready for 10GE, then you need 6A. Cat6 buys you nothing but extra cost and termination trouble over Cat5e for no practical gain. I think it's likely by the time that 10GE is cheap enough for home, it will be able to go the distances in your home over Cat5e too, people are already demonstrating 30m over Cat5e transceivers.

      HDMI also makes no sense to me. A 15m limitation makes it inappropriate for all but the smallest houses. There are also already plenty of cheap transceivers to move HDMI over Cat5e or Coax over longer distances, so either of those would cover HDMI needs with fewer technical issues.

      I don't see how RG6 could be totally optional. Even in systems that can distribute over Ethernet the first box needs to be connected to the Satellite or Cable system; so you'll need RG6 at least one place. Further, most of the boxes that work over Ethernet also have MoCA connectors. By putting the data on the coax plant with MoCO the boxes can use PQoS to manage the bandwidth and insure the quality of the video streams; they can't do that with Ethernet connections.

      I'll admit, I didn't use the POTS in my setup, although I borrowed those pairs for serial extensions from time to time. However, I wonder about the resale value of a home with no POTS lines...

    6. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by spire3661 · · Score: 1

      I ran RG6 to my outlets for antenna to each TV. If the network fails, we still get live TV.

      --
      Good-bye
    7. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by mbf210 · · Score: 1

      I remodeled my house last year and wired the entire house. I may have gone a little overboard, but am very glad of the effort. Most rooms have 2 runs with four CAT5e drops each. The drops are on opposite walls. This way if you change your mind, you do not have to snake cables across the room or around the perimeter. I did not run Coax as cable TV is going to be dead sooner than later, and there will be more streaming services. Don't own a TV, 4 years and counting. Do not subscribe to cable, 10 years and counting. Why four per run? Well CAT5e is very versatile. Aside from computer networks, I used it to distribute my home phone network. You can stream HDMI over 2 CAT5e cables. If I really wanted to, I could hook coax onto CAT5e http://www.lynxbroadband.com/. If a cable becomes extra, I can always take it out and snake another wire (HDMI, speaker, etc) through the same location with fish tape. Also some home automation and sound systems can hook up to CAT5e. So I could always re-purpose a wire for one one of these. When drilling through the studs, be sure to have a minimum 1" hole. This is enough room for about 7 CAT5e cables, or some combination desired wires. For the server closet, I have a small narrow closet with a wall mounted 24U swing rack. Be sure to go with a 25" rack system. Most server chassis are 25" deep. The 18" racks will limit the kind of hardware you can rack up.

    8. Re:Avoid the wall-mount, and here's how I did it. by mbf210 · · Score: 1

      one more note. I also installed a air intake vent on the bottom to bring in the room's AC and a vent at the top. This provides continuous circulation of cool are for the closet. It is not super cool, but is kept at a nice 75F all year with all my equipment powered on.

  22. Another suggestion.. by n5vb · · Score: 3, Insightful

    If the drywall isn't up yet, take the opportunity now to run PVC conduit to the server rack closet from the room locations where you're planning on Ethernet drops, and possibly to other locations where you might want to run AV cable later on, such as likely mounting locations for a ceiling-mounted projector. It'll save you a ton of work later drilling through studs and firestops later on. Even if you don't run the cable now, you can run a fish tape through conduit and pull cable through it without having to cut through drywall to route it, especially in rooms that have no access to the top or bottom of the wall space.

    I'll also agree with y00nix on the impossibility of having too much rack space. You never know what you might decide to install later, and more rackspace (and preinstalled conduit, see above) give you more expansion options. Trust me, 5-10 years down the road if not sooner, you're going to want to put more stuff in that closet. :D

    1. Re:Another suggestion.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If the drywall isn't up yet, take the opportunity now to run PVC conduit to the server rack closet from the room locations where you're planning on Ethernet drops, and possibly to other locations where you might want to run AV cable later on, such as likely mounting locations for a ceiling-mounted projector.

      Mod this up.

      DO NOT PULL RAW CABLE. Use conduit so you can always change cable *when* needed.

    2. Re:Another suggestion.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Running open ended pvc pipe could be a building code violation. At the very least, you'd have to look into fire blocking the ends after installation. Even with plenum rated cables, you could be denied for a fire claim due to this 'neat' addition.

    3. Re:Another suggestion.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Agree that OP should check building codes. I'm not sure you understand the plenum issue though. The plenum is an enclosed area intended for managing air flow. The reason you can't use regular network cable in there is that it's COATED WITH PVC! In a fire, PVC turns into a toxic gas which could harm humans if it got into their air supply. Obviously running PVC pipe in a plenum area is out of the question as well.

      However, I seriously doubt he's mounting a rack in a plenum area. PVC in the walls of a home is perfectly fine.

    4. Re:Another suggestion.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      not a good idea.... probably violates your local fire safety codes.

    5. Re:Another suggestion.. by Mabhatter · · Score: 2

      No, most places REQUIRE commercial electrical installs to use conduit of metal or PVC for all electrical work. You might have to put proper boxes at the ends, but not a terrible thing. You run it just like PVC drain tubing.

      Plenum rated cable is specifically rated to run in "airspace" either INSIDE air return ducts or above drop ceilings. You're trying NOT to do that here.

    6. Re:Another suggestion.. by slimjim8094 · · Score: 1

      Excellent suggestion, and a perennial one for Ask Slashdot about the home I'm building/renovating. But run a piece of string or twine or something through the cable instead of screwing around with fish tape. Any time you pull something through, pull through another string. Easy as anything, and a 10 minute job to add whatever cable you need.

      --
      I have developed a truly marvelous proof of this comment, which this signature is too narrow to contain.
    7. Re:Another suggestion.. by DJGreg · · Score: 1

      Best thing I've ever used to pull string through conduit is a vacuum cleaner. Just amazing how well that works.

      --

      Yes, one day I may actually learn to spell...
    8. Re:Another suggestion.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      First, the submitter asked about a residential, not commercial, installation.

      Second, at least here, plenum-rated cable is required when installed within residential conduit (and of course in airspaces). However, it's rare to see conduit in new residential construction, and I've never found it in older homes. Your locality may vary.

      - T

  23. Get a wall mount rack that swings from the rear. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    All problems solved.

  24. Re:two RJ-45 per room by menos · · Score: 4, Insightful

    And wifi speeds suck compared to gigabit ethernet. And exactly how am I supposed to replicated my 47tb with 'small footprint' servers?

  25. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Insightful

    That's why datacenters are all WiFi right?

  26. Lack Rack by Animal+Farm+Pig · · Score: 3, Informative

    Have you considered building a Lack Rack? You could do a small stack. Then, you don't need to build anything into your house and it's relocatable.

    1. Re:Lack Rack by discord5 · · Score: 1

      Have you considered building a Lack Rack? You could do a small stack. Then, you don't need to build anything into your house and it's relocatable.

      Neat, now I can put my drink somewhere and enjoy the soothing whirring sound of a server running at full blast.

    2. Re:Lack Rack by starfishsystems · · Score: 2

      IKEA also makes a modular shelf system called IVAR in two depths, 30cm and 50cm. The width is unsuitable for rackmount equipment, but the depth is perfect in the 50cm option.

      --
      Parity: What to do when the weekend comes.
    3. Re:Lack Rack by cyclomedia · · Score: 1

      I have the OPPLI MediaRack, myself :) http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/List_of_IkeaRacks

      --
      If you don't risk failure you don't risk success.
    4. Re:Lack Rack by cyclomedia · · Score: 1
      --
      If you don't risk failure you don't risk success.
    5. Re:Lack Rack by shadedream · · Score: 1

      Interesting... I wonder if this one has the same internal dimensions... would be a lot more convenient with the casters already on it.

      Could probably manage a switch and maybe a 3U/4U shallow depth server on it?

    6. Re:Lack Rack by Yogs · · Score: 1

      OK so upside is cheap and transportable, downside is colossal fire hazard.

      Decisions decisions.

    7. Re:Lack Rack by greed · · Score: 1

      If you've got a table saw, and have the older version, IVAR shelving is available in any width narrower than what is available in-store.

      (The "old version" had rabbets cut in the wood with metal L-brackets to hang on the shelf pins. The "new version" has plastic things wedged in to a saw-kerf cut into each shelf end. The "new version" is more secure--the shelves click into place. But the "old version" is far more saw-and-router friendly.)

    8. Re:Lack Rack by starfishsystems · · Score: 1

      Totally agree. It's a trick that comes in handy when fitting the shelving system into an alcove or other constrained space. Make whatever width you need. That said, there's a lot of waste wood in producing 19-inch rack spacing from stock shelves. Also keep in mind that the shelving won't be nearly as stable in that orientation as it is across the mortised uprights.

      Strictly speaking, you don't even need a table saw, just a decent crosscut saw and a chisel. The work goes faster than you might think because the rabbets are so shallow. With this degree of alteration, it's even possible to make uprights of dual depth: for use in work tables with drawers below and shelving above, for example. I love the IVAR system for this sort of versatility, design simplicity, and use of materials.

      --
      Parity: What to do when the weekend comes.
  27. Get a rolling half cab, plan for later space usage by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    At home I have a full 42U server rack, why? Because I bought it from a company that was shutting down for super cheap. If I was in your place, I'd but a half-ish height rolling rack. StarTech (among others) sells them for less than a thousand dollars.

    I'd take whatever space you need and at least double it. Give yourself extra space for cable mgmt (because you can), assume you might want an extra server in there someday and don't forget the other gear you might add. Even if it's not rack mount - some UPS will probably be a very wise investment and take up at least a couple U of space (more if you put em on a shelf).

  28. Re:two RJ-45 per room by darkstar949 · · Score: 2

    Those of us that are concerned about security prefer wired connections. Also, for high bandwidth consumption environments or environments where you want low latency the wired connections are going to serve you better.

  29. Mobile rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    We have a 1/2 size mobile rack that has 24U of space, on 4 rollers and it has soundproofing sides and front door with glass. Just make a closet big enough to roll it into and there you go.

  30. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I call bullshit on the wifi. The effectiveness of wifi is greatly limited by the structure of the house. Having wifi in an area like a room or 2 is fine. You will definitely want cabling throughout the house with wifi hotspots. A friend of mine at work has had nothing but headaches and frustration trying to get wifi-only in his new house. He is grateful that he went ahead and had it cabled too. Wifi is great for local connectivity but for kickass, reliable, speedier connections you still can't beat cable. I'd opt for all house fiber optic before all house wifi.

  31. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The WiFi that's been around for years and still can't reach the, now basic, 1Gbit/s speed of wired ethernet? No thanks. Today, I'd go for CAT6a wiring.

  32. You're not building a "house" by sk999 · · Score: 2

    >

    Let's face it - you're designing an office building. Ignore the construction company - make yourself a machine room with a raised floor, fluorescent lights, extra HVAC, the works. You may not need it all now, but you're going to need it eventually to keep all those RJ-45 jacks humming ...

  33. The same thing you do at work for maintainability by mrmeval · · Score: 1

    You need to keep the wires and crap out of the way, you need to be able to get to all sides of the unit regardless of what it is. It needs to stay clean.

    While you're building that also integrate the A/V system in and set it up the same way in the same clean room. Have AC, humidity control and filtering preferably HEPA filtering on the incoming AC since it should never have heat you'll want a unit just for that and a temperature control that will keep it at the right temp. It doesn't take much and even if it's a small room it's worth it in the long run. Insulate the room from the rest of the house no sense spending money cooling the house in the winter.

    I've set them up before so they're easy to maintain and easy to rip the hell out and start over. The systems I've installed start and $25,000 as a base with four rooms covered.

    Your TVs should be able to accept streaming video if not trash it and start over.

    --
    I'd go on a Vegan diet but the delivery time from Vega is too long. --brownkitty
  34. Hinged or 25U by eagle8635 · · Score: 1

    Second (or fiftieth) on the swing out/hinged wall-mount rack, if you want wall mounted, it's the best way to go. (I haven't used them in IT, but I have used sound equipment in a swing out rack and it's great when you need to add or change something quickly). I would avoid a 42U rack in a home environment unless you *know* that you will need all that space (also, many 42U racks will not fit through the average closet door). A good compromise may be a 25U rack, a simple four-post design is very affordable (especially when compared to the overall cost of building a new home) and should provide more than enough space. Utilizing sliding mounting rails and cable management arms should reduce the need for access to the rear of the rack enough that you can just push it against a wall and forget about it.

  35. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Lime+Green+Bowler · · Score: 1

    My house is all WiFi connected, but my desktops have extra NICs with gig connections to my server for backups that don't take forever. Wireless is the AOL of connection media- so easy, your grandmother can use it. But it's not good for serious transfers.

  36. You have your own house? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Do you also have one of these 'wives' I keep hearing about? How do I land myself one of those?

  37. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Skapare · · Score: 1

    I'd go with fiber optic, at least along side the cats.

    --
    now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
  38. CL by SJHillman · · Score: 1

    I bought a full height enclosed rack with cooling fans for $100 off Craigslist. It's on wheels so when I don't need to access it, it slides into a gap between the water heater and chest freezer. Just make sure all of the cables going in/out of it have enough slack for sliding it around a few feet.

    1. Re:CL by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yes, place your expensive computer equipment between two devices that fail frequently and are full of water!

  39. What do you really need? by maciarc · · Score: 1
    There's a rack that will fit your situation. Browse some manufacturer's sites: http://www.lowellmfg.com/, http://www.middleatlantic.com/ and http://www.chiefmfg.com/Racks/ to name a few.

    They have racks that wall mount, floor mount, mount in custom woodwork and built into desks. They have fans to deal with heat and power strips too.

  40. Two-post telco rack by kriston · · Score: 2

    I use a two-post telco rack.
    The network patch blocks panels mount right on it and so do all switches and routers.
    For computers, I buy center-mount shelving. For the odd electronic device, a cantilevered shelf does the trick.

    The two-post telco racks are fantastically inexpensive and are easy to fit in a furnace room or utility room. Since you're in a house, combining the network wiring with the servers economizes in space.

    If you want to go fancy check out Smarthome.com.

    --

    Kriston

  41. Re:two RJ-45 per room by mcrbids · · Score: 1, Insightful

    I had a house wired just like OP, with one Cat 6 wired RJ45 per room, every 15 feet or so in the big rooms. I thought it would be awesome! In the server closet (upstairs, in the middle of the house, in a closet) I had a wifi hotspot, a WRT54G. Because of its high, central location, I got great wireless access everywhere in the building. (actually, most of the city block)

    Guess how often I used the wired plug ins? (Hint: It was very rare.)

    I moved. My new house has no RJ45 connectors in the walls. I don't miss them much. When I need the speed, (EG: LAN parties) I have a 50' Cat6 cable I roll along the ground. Nobody minds much rolling it up at the end of the day.

    You aren't running a data center. If you want to do that, get a job where you get to. Otherwise, spend $50 on a used wifi router on Craigslist or Ebay, mount it up high in the attic, and forget about it.

    Spend the money and time you save getting a girlfriend. (or making the one you have happier)

    --
    I have no problem with your religion until you decide it's reason to deprive others of the truth.
  42. Re:two RJ-45 per room by bigredradio · · Score: 0

    See above.

  43. Pass through by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Depending on the room, you can buy two of the deeper wall mounts and cut a hole through the wall (if possible, obviously) and mount one on each side, so you get the benefits of the wall, but still some depth for servers and the like. Depends on your taste, but that's probably something I would do.

  44. Follow the example by Shoten · · Score: 2

    There are reasons why racks are set up the way they are, with space around them, the back accessible, and so on. Follow that example. And don't ask the construction company how to essentially build a small data center...they don't know. Don't wall-mount, but do anchor whatever rack you install to the floor. Have some space around it, and be able to vaccuum out dust (since you'll have a bigger problem with that than most data centers). Also, if you put it in the basement, make sure you have all power a decent distance up off the floor. I don't know your environment or climate, but minor flooding does happen in basements, and what would normally just be a bit of a mess can become a disaster if you have a PDU low enough to get wet. I don't agree at all with the idea of fiber for everything...whatever that guy is smoking, I'm sure I won't keep my job if I have any myself. (Yeah, for that guy...how many household electronics come with fiber interfaces? Or, for that matter, wifi access points with fiber connections?)

    Look at any holy trinity of a server room, and scale to your liking. Patch panel, networking gear, server space. A half-height rack should do you just fine, and still be quality enough that the whole thing will look nice and sanitary. Velcro strips for cable management will be your friend as well, to keep it all super-sano, especially the cable bundles coming out of the rack. Oh, and if you're really interested in making some things easier to trace, there are now ethernet cables that light up at both ends, so that you hit a button on one end and can see the other end light up. The light stays on for about 30 seconds, and it's a godsend if you have a significant cabling area.

    --

    For your security, this post has been encrypted with ROT-13, twice.
  45. Rolling rack by symbolset · · Score: 1

    I went with the rolling half rack. Easy peasy, $100 at the surplus. Just make sure you secure it in case of earthquake.

    --
    Help stamp out iliturcy.
  46. Re:two RJ-45 per room by klui · · Score: 2

    WiFi is adequate if you're forever alone or you're the only one using the spectrum. A home with 2 adults, 2 kids, and a bunch of personal devices that stream media from a central server, dedicated ethernet is the way to go.

  47. Home or office? by namgge · · Score: 1

    I may have misunderstood the scale of what you are trying to do, but... It seems to me you're trying to turn a domestic environment into a semi-industrial/work one. A server rack will consume a lot of power, generate a lot of heat, create a lot of noise, the the server will depreciate in value rapidly and you'll probably need to install fire barriers and get a special insurance policy if you want cover. Don't get married before you start this project, at least that way you'll save the cost of the divorce.

    1. Re:Home or office? by coredog64 · · Score: 1

      I got a surplus, 42U, 4 post Compaq rack for free. Although the rack did include a high-power ventilation setup at the top, it's really only needed if you fill the thing with a bunch of 1U space heaters and/or blade chassis. I was only using it to create a tidier setup for a bunch of equipment that was used occasionally (an Octane, an O2, a SunBlade, etc.) along with low power gear that was always in use (a 16 port switch, the DSL modem, a small NAS).

  48. @home racks by Vic+Metcalfe · · Score: 1

    I used to have two full sized racks in my basement. I had smoked glass doors on the front side into my home office, and a storage room behind them so that I could get to the backs of them.

    I also built a small data-centre with 12 full sized racks, and for it I had a 12RU box wall mounted in addition to the floor models which I used for the main routers and telephony. It was on hinges and swung away from the wall so that I could get at the back. I don't recall the price, but I know it wasn't cheap. Also I had trouble with the cable management between the equipment mounted in it, and the fibre and other feeds coming into it.

    Either way I think you're correct that having access to the back is pretty much a requirement for it to be very usable.

    BTW, I got rid of all my racks in the end. I gave away my hosting business and consolidated my home stuff into a couple of towers that sit on a desk. I now have a nice wood lathe where the old racks used to sit. I mounted my home routers and switches into the joists with wood screws. Maybe you don't need a rack at all?

  49. Definitely need back access. by smpoole7 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Just my opinion, but speaking from experience, you will want front and back access. EASY front and back access. I've tried the slide-out rails, but frankly, I'd rather just walk around back and eyeball the connections myself. It's surprisingly difficult to change something when you're working at an angle.

    We built all of our racks into a wall, but we cheated: it's a wall between rooms. (The "Technical Information Center" and the "Technical Operations Center" -- TIC and TOC.) :) We just walk around back and tinker to our heart's content, while the people who walk by the Engineering area in our studios get to see pretty blinky lights and other stuff through the glass. You might consider mounting your server into the wall with its butt in a closet. That way, you not only hide the wires, you simply walk into the closet for good access.

    You will tell yourself, "I hardly ever change anything." You'll try to convince yourself that a little side access should be a plenty. But again, speaking from experience, you'll regret.

    Oh ... and don't forget that server needs to breathe. If it's farting out several cubic feet of air per minute into that closet or wall-mounted rack, you'd better plan on a fan to pull that hot air out of there. (Again, speaking from experience.)

    --
    Cogito, igitur comedam pizza.
  50. Verticle? by robi2106 · · Score: 2

    Just get a metal bracket and hang the server vertically (or invert it so that the cold to hot flow is from bottom to top. That takes up a LOT less room. But if you want a full sized one, I have a full height full cage rack in my garage you are welcome to have for free. But you pay shipping. :-)

  51. Re:two RJ-45 per room by menos · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Exactly why do I need reduntant power, redundant networking and locked cages for a home network? All I need is tons of storage and very fast interconnects. Every PC in my house does backups to the server. The same server also serves media to all the media devices in the house. There is a middle ground between grandma checking her email and a professional web host. Some people's requirements may be different than yours. Deal with it.

  52. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Z34107 · · Score: 3, Informative

    So... Redundant everything isn't enough, but you call him out for extravagances like Ethernet?

    What a tool.

    --
    DATABASE WOW WOW
  53. Really Resplendent Rolling Racks Rock by bearded_yak · · Score: 1

    If you can find the room, consider those recommendations you've seen for a rolling rack. At my last job, I had in my office a little rolling rack in which I used to keep a 4U server, 4U UPS, and several switches. I often kept it closed and locked (it had auxiliary fans and vents), but you may not have that need. It was the most versatile setup I had. It was small enough to put into a corner out of the way, but gave me full access to the equipment when needed. If it hadn't been painted an awful orangish-pinkish color that absolutely sent your eyes into convulsions, it could have been mistaken for a cubist table (with some mysterious fan noise).

    I don't know if building codes would allow it, but I've often thought of creating a actively-ventilated rack-garage in a kitchen peninsula (or similar) into which one could roll a short rack and then roll down a retractible door. Of course the potential for liquid spill incursion would have to be taken into consideration.

    In any case, I cannot imagine the frustration of using a wall rack for a server. Swing-away would seem to make it better, but all the swing-away racks I've ever used or seen (cheap or expensive) develop hinge-sag and can get difficult to swing closed.

  54. "moderate. nothing fancy." by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    And then you want two RJ45 per room, four in the living room, and a -4- unit server at home. You, my dear nerd, is the computer world's equivalent of a muscle car redneck.

    1. Re:"moderate. nothing fancy." by Pentium100 · · Score: 1

      I'd also like a 4 unit server, but cannot find one that has less than 4 CPUs and instead has a lot of space for hard drives (I basically want a 1U server in a 4U case).

      On the other hand, when building a computer myself, I use a 4U case so that I can use all the standard components instead of having to find the low height ones. And I get enough space for hard drives.

    2. Re:"moderate. nothing fancy." by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not looking very hard, eh?

      That came of much snottier than intended, sorry.

      I have a very nice 2u tall case that has space for 12 disks in the front. Love it. About $200 or so from NewEgg. There is also a 3U, 4U and 8u version. All sata/sas drive enclosures.

      Oh, that's just the enclosure, the rest was mostly leftovers from an older desktop machine. Happily running Debian Lunix, but could easily as well be running some Windows variant.

    3. Re:"moderate. nothing fancy." by Pentium100 · · Score: 1

      Finding an empty case with space for a lot of hard drives is not that big a problem (2U cases require special power supply, CPU cooler and PCI cards though, that's why I use 4U). I cannot find an actual server (with redundant power supplies, hotswap drive bays, monitoring hardware) that has a lot of drive bays, but less than 4 CPUs, because the $CPU ones are extremely expensive and I don't need 4 CPUs anyway. The only affordable ones have 4-6 bays max.

    4. Re:"moderate. nothing fancy." by value_added · · Score: 1

      I cannot find an actual server (with redundant power supplies, hotswap drive bays, monitoring hardware) that has a lot of drive bays, but less than 4 CPUs, because the $CPU ones are extremely expensive and I don't need 4 CPUs anyway. The only affordable ones have 4-6 bays max.

      I bought this 4U system. If memory serves me right (too lazy to check), it accomodates two power supplies. I opted for just one. The chassis, I think, is this Supermicro chassis. It has 8 hot swap drive bays (plus 2 peripheral).

      Is that what you're looking for?

    5. Re:"moderate. nothing fancy." by Pentium100 · · Score: 1

      Really nice. 8 hotswap bays + 1 FDD bay (can also hold a non hotswap drive) and 3x 5.25" bays. I'll look for it locally (LT) (shipping such a heavy device from abroad wouls be too expensive.

  55. Only if you are running Token Ring! by Gim+Tom · · Score: 1

    I worked at a site with wall mounted racks, but it was all Token Ring and the MAU's did not have any ports on the back and were not powered. I still didn't like them and when I was given the assignment of converting the entire site to Ethernet the wall mounted racks were a pain the butt until I could replace them. For what you are wanting to do I would absolutely want access to both the front and back side of the equipment -- without a wall in the way.

  56. don't bother with wall mount by roc97007 · · Score: 2

    As you surmised, wall mount racks are switch only. I went through the same intellectual process and saw no solution but to buy a floor standing rack. It sits in my garage and is accessible from both sides. Mine has a large enough footprint to be stable, but if you get one of those skinny spidery racks, you should sink some bolts into the floor to make sure you don't have a sudden gravity-induced catastrophic failure.

    If your equipment has redundant supplies, you should plug them in separate circuits. I did this after a GFI blew and took out my servers. I wasn't even aware that the GFI in the master bath was on the same circuit as the plug in the garage.

    If you're interested in battery backup, instead of a dedicated UPS, consider a true sinewave inverter (available on amazon) and a couple of marine batteries (available almost anywhere) fed by a heavy duty battery charger. Why? Because it's easier to switch to solar later if you're so inclined.

    --
    Oliver's law of assumed responsibility: If you're seen fixing it, you will be blamed for breaking it.
  57. Ugly hack that happens to work really well by GNUALMAFUERTE · · Score: 1

    Hinged racks are really expensive ... just buy a conventional wall-mounted rack and mount it on regular hinges. It's nice to carve 10cm or so into the wall so that cables fit nicely when you close it. Front and back access without using much room. Another thing I've done when not much room is available is build a trap door in the wall where the wall-rack will be mounted. When you need to access the backside, you just go to the other room and pull out the trap door. If none of this is feasible, just mount the servers in rails. Without a hack like this, wall-mounted racks are just for switches and other devices with front connectors.

    --
    WTF am I doing replying to an AC at 5 A.M on a Friday night?
  58. Why use a rack at all? by hawguy · · Score: 1

    If all you need is space for a network switch and a single server, why not put the server in a desktop case, and put both the rack and the switch on a shelf. Or just keep it in the rackmount case and put it on the shelf.

    Or, if you're looking for something to impress your friends when they see your server room, put in whatever it is that impresses your friends. With lots of blue LEDs.

    1. Re:Why use a rack at all? by kenh · · Score: 1

      Metro/wire shelving could work well for such an application - If you bought two sets of shelves and put all the shelves on one set of legs you could "stack" your hardware without having any equipment resting on top of another piece of equipment or taking over the room.

      --
      Ken
  59. two words - rack slides by DCFusor · · Score: 1

    Commonly used for decades, you get some quality rack slides that let you pull things out far enough to get to the back sides of them. Remember, the standard 19" rack has been around a long time, and this situation also - consider a Navy boat or an AWACs plane with stuff mounted to the walls - same problem, and they need quick access. I never knew what those things cost new, because for a long time they were almost give-away surplus. Probably an almost lost tech now, but they really made some quality stuff back then, self-lubed surfaces, some would let you rotate the gear after sliding it out, all kinds of good stuff. They did make things protrude from the front about 1/4", because the rack slide mounts to the rack, then the gear mounts to that - so you have one extra metal/screw thickness involved.

    --
    Why guess when you can know? Measure!
    1. Re:two words - rack slides by starfishsystems · · Score: 1

      Heavy rackmount equipment has to be supported front and back. Here, rack rails make sense, because you can set them up independent of inserting the equipment.

      It's poor practice, however, to slide equipment out on these rails in order to gain access to cabling. Avoid this situation if you possibly can, because it introduces a high risk of issues cause by connector and cable strain. The more complex your data center, the more likely you'll be hurt by this.

      --
      Parity: What to do when the weekend comes.
  60. SMARTNET by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Better not forget your smartnet contract. HAHAHAHa

  61. You HAVE to be able to get to the back by DrJimbo · · Score: 1

    If you aren't then all your geek credentials will be revoked.

    Some people have recommended a hinged rack that swings out. I would suggest a rack on wheels. IMO using a rack is not crucial. The only crucial thing is having easy access to all the connections and all the equipment.

    --
    We don't see the world as it is, we see it as we are.
    -- Anais Nin
    1. Re: You HAVE to be able to get to the back by catmistake · · Score: 1

      meh... just mount the servers backwards. Usually, once its on, you almost never need to get to the front.

  62. Lots of good ideas here: Remain versatile by mschuyler · · Score: 1

    Also brings back memories. I built a house years ago and ran wires within the walls--for a Lantsastic network! This was before widespread ethernet, of course. Then WiFi showed up. I laugh at my own lack of foresight! I fooled myself.

    I applaud your efforts. Just plan for MORE rack space and keep your versatility. Everything will be connected. Sounds like fun. Wish I could do it again.

    --
    How about a moderation of -1 pedantic.
  63. Split your equipment by PPH · · Score: 2

    Use a wall mounted rack for the switch, patch panels, etc. for all the CAT6 runs to various rooms. You'll only need front access for this stuff.

    Get a half rack for the servers. Put it on wheels so you can pull it out of the closet, turn it around to access the back, etc. There will only be a couple of Ethernet drops from the switch to the moveable cabinet, so you won't pull loose all the house network wiring every time you move it.

    --
    Have gnu, will travel.
    1. Re:Split your equipment by snowtigger · · Score: 1

      This is exactly what I have and it's a great solution.

      In a small 4U network cabinet, you can fit a patch panel and a 24 port switch. That leaves you an extra 2U for other things. I also have a PoE enabled switch and a network server: The SuperMicro 1U Atom servers are small, cheap, energy efficient and quiet. For the switch(es), go for quiet (fanless if possible) and energy efficient. Most switches are made in the same factory in China and from the same components, so it doesn't really matter which brand you choose.

      I recently downsized from a 42U to a 21U rack. A 42U rack is was inconvenient and too heavy to handle. Having a smaller rack on wheels is more convenient and 21U is probably more space than you'll need in a home environment if your main purpose is "just for fun". I've got a separate switch in the rack and an uplink connecting the two switches.

    2. Re:Split your equipment by jawtheshark · · Score: 1
      After reading all of the comments, this really seems to be the best thing to do. I have to admit, I was a bit short on details (European house, not as much space as in American homes). It's mostly to keep everything tidy and clean so it has a higher WAF. Yes, just a few desktop on a table works fine too, but does have lower WAF.

      Thanks... If anyone else reads it, also thank you for all the input.

      --
      Ahhh...the great dumpster continuum. Many a free computer will be found there. -- sowth (748135)
  64. Run more wire by jeff4747 · · Score: 1

    A couple suggestions:

    1) Run more wire. Nobody ever said "Damn, I ran too many cables while the walls were open". It's really cheap to do now. You also may want to run some quad-shielded coax for future cable or satellite hook-ups. You might not want 'em now, but the cable's really cheap.

    2) If you have an attic and a basement, run a good-sized conduit between the attic and the basement. Like 2" or larger. Leave it empty except for a pull cord. This will make it very easy to pull any future wires between the floors, and once again it's absurdly cheap to do while the walls are open.

  65. XRackPro - Noise Reducing Server Rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If I could afford one of these I would get one in a heartbeat:
    http://xrackpro.com/

    noise reducing with air filter options

  66. A closet behind it by Kilroy1218 · · Score: 1

    I have a friend whos house has two rather nice entertainment systems in his basement. They are both managed from the same central location where a shelving unit, which would be similar to a rack mount is accessible from a door that swings out and faces the main area. Then in order to get behind the shelves easier they put a closest on the back side so that theres more storage space and the rear of the shelves are accessible.

  67. Buy a 42U surplus rack by Pontiac · · Score: 1

    Find a surplus sale and buy a used 42U rack.

    Home run all the Cat 6 into the rack (you are having all the phones wired with Cat 6 right?) and add a patch pannel
    Also have all the house cable home run into the rack plus a couple runs of fiber from the telco service entrance just to be future proof.
    Feed the rack a dedicated 220v circuit with an in rack PDU.

    If possible have a 2-3" conduit run from the entertainment center to the rack for media PC use so you can run HDMI or whatever comes next without opening up walls.

    --
    If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur. --Red Adair
  68. Don't build it in, just build for it by Vrtigo1 · · Score: 3, Informative

    Agree with others that have suggested "go big or go home". If you're the type of person that thinks about installing a server rack in your house, a 6U or 12U rack probably isn't going to be big enough for long enough. Plus, as you've noted, the smaller racks are really designed for network equipment, not servers. If you're going to put a server in there, you may as well go for at least a half rack. And I'd really recommend a four post setup with sliding rails for whatever servers you end up putting in there - it just makes things so much easier. You'll inevitably end up needing to upgrade RAM or something, and it's a huge PITA if you have to pull the whole server out of the rack. Plus, four post racks are readily available second hand on craigslist.

    As to your comment about two cat5 jacks per room and four in the living room - as someone who did exactly that four years ago when I build my house I can tell you that you're boxing yourself in. If you're going to have a home office, you probably want to put at least four jacks in there. For your living room, just think about all the stuff you may someday have that will want cat5. I have an Apple TV, Samsung TV, Xbox, Bluray, and a PC. I ended up putting a 5 port switch in my entertainment center, and it may well be more cost effective to only run one network jack to a small switch at locations where you need higher port density. Most home stuff doesn't have really high throughput requirements, so losing the single highspeed backplane of a centralized switch isn't a huge issue. The only issue here would be (as in my case) if you need PoE on some of those ports.

    Here are a few other things I'd do differently if I was building again and had a budget for this sort of thing:
    1) Run a min 20A (30A is even better) dedicated circuit with a twist lock connector to the rack's location. If you want to get a rackmount UPS in the 2000-3000VA range, it will probably require this.
    2) Install sound deadening around the rack - network equipment is typically pretty noisy
    3) Plan for cooling - if you can run an A/C duct to the rack's location that's good, but plan for how you're going to keep stuff cool when the rest of the house has reached your target temperature and the central A/C turns off for 30 minutes. You may want to look at one of the smaller portable A/C units that you can duct either into the crawlspace (check local codes about this, you may run into problems with mold if you duct moist air up there), or outside.
    4) Run CONDUIT - this is probably the biggest tip I can give you. If you're able to install wall boxes and such before drywall goes up, spend $100 on a roll of blue flex conduit and run that from your wall boxes up into the attic/crawlspace. Make sure to stub the conduit up high enough so that any blown-in insulation doesn't cover the top of it. You'll be so glad you did this in a few years when you want to upgrade or add more wiring.
    5) Cable management - don't overlook it. Patch panels and wire management to and at the rack make life so much nicer. You can get by without it but if you do a really nice job you'll find yourself wanting to show it off to your friends to impress them (unfortunately, it usually just draws a blank stare). 6) K.I.S.S. - since I'm a network engineer, I built my home network with a cisco router, AP and switch, created VLANs and public/private WiFi networks, then realized that most consumer level tech isn't designed to be compatible with that in the least. Take Apple TV for instance - it relies on network broadcasts. If you have an iPad or iPhone with airplay and want to send a stream to your Apple TV, the two devices have to be on the same network. There's no way to manually enter device IP addresses to get two devices on separate subnets to talk to each other. Naturally, if your PCs are on a private network with the Apple TV, that's well and good, but what if a friend comes over and connects to your public WiFi and you want him to be able to use airplay from his iPhone? I've had similar problems with Slingbox, etc. That kind of stuff just isn't designed to work on a network any more complicated than what you get with your standard Linksys router.

    Hopefully some of this is helpful to you.

    1. Re:Don't build it in, just build for it by TubeSteak · · Score: 1

      1) Run a min 20A (30A is even better) dedicated circuit with a twist lock connector to the rack's location. If you want to get a rackmount UPS in the 2000-3000VA range, it will probably require this.

      This. A hundred times this.

      Those little labels in your breaker box are barely useful
      So take a copy of the floorplan and note which outlets go to which breaker.
      Otherwise, you'll only really understand how your power outlets are tied together in winter....
      Because that's when space heaters get plugged in and breakers start getting tripped.

      And some general advice:
      While the home is being built, take pictures of everything before the drywall goes up. And use film.
      When you finally decide to do renovations, these pictures will be invaluable.

      --
      [Fuck Beta]
      o0t!
    2. Re:Don't build it in, just build for it by Vrtigo1 · · Score: 1

      Out of curiosity why do you recommend using film? I took about 200 pictures of my home before drywall went up but I used a digital camera.

    3. Re:Don't build it in, just build for it by Carnildo · · Score: 1

      Because when something goes wrong in the breaker box, it's easier to pull the negatives out of the file and look at them with a flashlight than it is to find a neighbor who will let you plug your computer in.

      --
      "They redundantly repeated themselves over and over again incessantly without end ad infinitum" -- ibid.
    4. Re:Don't build it in, just build for it by Vrtigo1 · · Score: 1

      I suppose it is, but in this day and age, a cell phone or tablet will just as easily get you to Picasa, Flickr or where ever else you happen to have those photos stored online :)

  69. Experience says you are a noob by lanner · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I am some guy who has done stuff like this, including oversaw the construction of a custom condo where I directed certain changes be made to accommodate data networking and a little server room. For my day job, I sysadmin and have directed the construction of a modern mid-size data center (30 racks) and multiple office environments. I oversee lots of structured cabling installations.

    I have beat my head against the wall many times, over stupid stuff. So, let me give you some advice.

    For example, the fact that you want a 4U rackmount anything in your home is just crazy. Knock it off. You really don't want anything rackmount in your home, though that is the only form factor you are going to find larger switches in.

    No professional sysadmin or programmer would put a rackmount server in his home because he knows it is stupid. There is a reason you put computer guts into that form factor and those same reasons do not apply in your home. Get over it.

    You are using the logic of "Penguins are Black and White. Some Old TV Shows are Black and White. Therefore, Some Penguins are Old TV Shows" . Just because professionals use rack servers in data centers doesn't mean you are a professional when you put one in your home.

    You almost certainly do not want a rackmount chassis for your server. Instead, use a desktop chassis which meets your needs (or whatever is cheapest). The only time you might use a rackmount chassis would be for mounting it directly onto a wall using the ears, but even then, I would never use a 4U height chassis.

    Same thing goes for the patch panels. You don't need a rack at all. Ortronics makes a nice little 12-port wall-mounter patch panel which is perfect for home use. I have exactly 24 cat5e runs in my home, so two of them were perfect. FYI Ortronics also makes pretty good jacks and plates too -- get a catalog and call your local Anixter or Graybar for an order.

    In my particular case, I have a single do-it-all server with five internal SATA disk drives for primary storage, an old SCSI card which attaches to an external DLT tape drive for backups, and I have an external 5-disk SATA enclosure which is inside of a fire-proof enclosure in case the place burns down. I have a bunch of old APC UPS units in the home which all have network cards in them. I use wireless only for my laptop and phone, where every room has at least two network jacks and as many as eight.

    The biggest issues in this server closet are air flow for heat removal, and noise isolation. I live in the southwest where it gets really hot in the summer and the closet where I keep my gear is next to the garage, where it gets warm. I had to cut a vent into the door near the bottom so fresh/cool air could enter the closet, and I have a small fan which blows the old/hot air into the garage. The little 'server closet' has that do-it-all server with the ten disk drives, a cable modem, a 24-port switch, an APC UPS, an APC per-port controlled PDU, and sometimes I keep a second little cheapy server in there for experiments. So I need a little bit of air flow to keep it at a reasonable temperature in there.

    However, all of these fans and junk make noise, which is bad. My old switch was the worst offender and I had to ditch it for a different switch. I also found that wall-mounting the switch caused vibrations to go through the wall, so I had to solve that problem by putting it on a small shelf with a layer of foam underneath.

    Cat5e cable is probably fine for now. I like Berk-Tek brand riser/plenum cable as an intermediate of price and quality. If you really want to be able to do 10GBASE-T some day, you will have to go with Cat6a, which is crazy expensive. FYI, the current 10GBASE-T spec calls for spans of something like 25 meters with Cat5e, so you might be able to do 10GBASE-T over the Cat5e anyway.

    Get over it, stop rack mounting things in your house, and get someone who knows structured cabling in there to help you pick some good cable, jacks, and the patch panels. I already told you about Ortronics and Berk-Tek. A clueful person could go from there.

    1. Re:Experience says you are a noob by lanner · · Score: 1

      Ortronics part # PMP5E12H

    2. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have to agree. Stay away from racks. They take up more space than your equipment needs to. For a server (or two) and a switch (or two), just plan one wall covered in plywood. Most switches can be wall mounted and will take up less space. You'll also need room for all those other random pieces of equipment... FiOS ONT, sprinkler timer, security system, etc etc etc. All nicely wall mountable.

    3. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You sir are completely correct.

      I found a $70 steel storage rolling "rack" with 4 shelves, put shag carpet on the shelves to keep the vibration noise down and put all my tower computers on it. To get to the back, I just roll it out. They make those 4 ft high, but mine is 6ft. It is flexible enough for UPS, storage, servers, phone systems, routers, modems, switches, monitors, magazines, printers, scanners, .. anything. 2 cables come off it - the power and coax for the cable modem. Most other cables are connections "on the rack." It has a cool, industrial look too. The carpet really makes a huge difference in noise levels - HUGE difference.

      I'm certain I could roll this into a normal closet.

      Folks need to stop over thinking this stuff.

    4. Re:Experience says you are a noob by swalve · · Score: 1

      I would definitely rack mount the structured cabling, up in a corner somewhere. But yeah, you don't really need or want rack mount servers.

    5. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You need rackmount if you are going to do any mass data storage. anything above 12 bay (and 12 bay is pushing it) will be rack mounted.

      I've got a total of 24 bays right now and dying for hard drive prices to go down because I'm at about 600gb free.

    6. Re:Experience says you are a noob by klui · · Score: 1

      Maybe you got sick of doing that condo project and you're rejecting racks in a home. I disagree and think a rack mount is essential for a decent sized house with more than 8 drops of cables. Otherwise, you'd get stuff like https://www.reddit.com/r/cablefail

      I do agree that rack servers are probably not a good idea since they make a lot of noise due to their use of small fans. The same goes for a lot of rack mounted switches but it's an essential piece of the network infrastructure. Daisy-chaining switches is not a good idea unless you like to bottleneck your bandwidth.

    7. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Polo · · Score: 1

      This is all good solid advice.

      Also, I would pass up on raid (except maybe mirroring the entire drive) in favor of one hard disk, one partition.

      see:
      http://www.jwz.org/doc/backups.html

    8. Re:Experience says you are a noob by iamroot · · Score: 1

      I have several servers at home that were in PC cases on shelving, but recently moved to a 42U rack in the basement. Overall, it is has been very worthwhile and has dramatically reduced my floor space requirements.

      My rack cost $23 at a nearby surplus store. It isn't cheap and flimsy either -- It weighs about 360 lbs empty and was in great condition. I have a pickup truck, so transportation was easy. At home a friend and I simply picked it up and carried it into the basement.

      The cases cost a bit more, but are a small percentage of the total cost for the servers. The floor space and organization improvements make paying $50-60 more per case (including $20 rails) very worthwhile.

      The fact that it looks a hell of a lot better is just an added bonus.

      Sure, I don't NEED the rack, but saying it is automatically stupid to have one in a house is, well, pretty stupid.

    9. Re:Experience says you are a noob by RudyHartmann · · Score: 1

      Dude, after I did my post I read yours. I could not agree with you more. I have done essentially the same thing you advised long ago. Putting a rack in a house is ludicrous.

      --
      Oh, yeah! Wise guy, huh? Woob woob woob woob! Nyuk! Nyuk!
    10. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Simple fact: No person in the history of ever has needed that much storage for personal use.

    11. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      While i agree with you that you don't always need to rack-mount in a home, sometimes the hardware that you picked just is easier to do rack-mount with. I wish i could rack-mount my server (full sized 2u) but right now it just sits on top of a dresser, making a lot of noise and heat. Cant put it in a normal PC case because the motherboard is a full E-ATX, sure i could get a pedestal mount chassis but there really is no place on the floor to set this thing. Plus the weight of my server could break a few wall mounted shelves.

      Racks do help if you are running a lot of devices in a small area and want good cable management, easy access, and expandability. Especially if he starts adding more servers or network equipment. Plus this can add somewhat of security to the network, if someone breaks in it would be a pain to remove the devices from the rack to steal them (would probably need a screwdriver if the devices where screwed into the rack),

      Im not saying he really needs a rack but sometimes even in a home it can be nice to have as long as you have the space for it.

    12. Re:Experience says you are a noob by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I bought 1000 feet of riser rated Cat6a last year for ~$150. I don't consider that crazy expensive.

    13. Re:Experience says you are a noob by jsepeta · · Score: 1

      I'm a hobbyist musician, maybe semi-pro is a better term. Day job is as server/network admin for the past 20 years or so. What's wrong with using racks at home? I've got 3 racks for my music gear (2 with synths & samplers, 1 with effects), and it wouldn't make sense/work as well if the gear were unracked on a shelf. While some of my friends tell me to dump the instruments on ebay and move to virtual instruments, I kind of prefer working with knobs and buttons and other tactile elements lacking in software.

      Certainly a rack for the home is overkill, where you're unlikely to have more than 1 server, a switch, and a wifi router. But no reason to knock a guy who's got a dream. I'm not sure I'd go for a $400 rack like they have in the data center, but with all the businesses that have gone under, you can certainly find some cheap pre-used racks on the market.

      --
      Remember kids, if you're not paying for the service, YOU ARE THE PRODUCT THAT IS BEING SOLD.
    14. Re:Experience says you are a noob by snadrus · · Score: 1

      Stock home equipment in a closet & wireless is a start, but heat's then the issue. Changing your house is the worst option since it hurts resale & forces you to redo it in the next place.
      - Using a SATA NAS instead of a server uses a cool ARM chip.
      - Plug computers as servers do a lot with little heat.
      - Those on a budget can use a rootable Android phone similarly. Their battery backup is built-in. Laptops do the same.

      --
      Science & open-source build trust from peer review. Learn systems you can trust.
  70. Put it in a wall by complete+loony · · Score: 1

    At a friends house, they have all their AV equipment in cupboards embedded in the wall. If you need to reach the back of something, you walk around into the corridor and open the cupboard. The same thing could easily work with a rack assuming you allow for ventilation.

    --
    09F91102 no, 455FE104 nope, F190A1E8 uh-uh, 7A5F8A09 that's not it, C87294CE no. Ah! 452F6E403CDF10714E41DFAA257D313F.
  71. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    That's why datacenters are all WiFi right?

    You are comparing the connection density and count of a data center to a HOME?

    You can call it what you want - home datacenter etc., but if WiFi is not a solution for all but one room with most of your gear, you're probably violating some zoning ordinances.

  72. Re:A home rack server ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    The problem is that his wife asks: "Is that a toothpick in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?"

  73. obviously...modest ??? by poppopret · · Score: 1

    I'm building a house, and obviously I want a modest network built-in.

    No, it's not obvious. This is Slashdot. If anything, it's obvious that you want a completely immodest network for completely immodest uses.

    Let's start by assuming you want to steam uncompressed 36-bit 400 FPS 8K 3D video from multiple angles in every room. You want it streaming in too, to giant displays covering every surface. Don't forget to display video on the ceiling, floor, doors, toilet tank, toilet lid, exterior roof, and driveway.

    Each room will thus require about 15 Tb/s symmetric. You can get this by using wavelength-division multiplexing on your fiber with a few dozen colors of light. Alternately, a fat bundle of 100 Gb/s Ethernet should do the job. It'll be as thick as your arm. Maybe you'll want to do that for each room, saving the wavelength-division multiplexing for the links to your peering points.

  74. Wall cab: You *CAN* mount servers, but watch depth by RedHelix · · Score: 1

    I've handled this exact same issue. I work for a property management company and have wall-mounted half-racks with big, 4U Bosch DVR's at quite a few facilities. (These are basically rack-mounted mid-tower PCs with a steel front panel and a mobo that accepts the camera feeds.) We use a garden variety wall cab which consists of a huge, huge wall bracket with the cabinet attached on a hinge for rear access.

    Weight concerns? These DVRs weigh a TON; about the same as a 4U server stacked with hard drives. It's a bit of a snug fit in the back, but they've been mounted and running for years.

    That being said, you most definitely can mount servers in a wallmount cab, depending on their form factor. Specifically, you're pretty much limited to mid tower servers that can be converted to rackmount. You most definitely cannot mount most servers advertised as 'rackmount' due their tendency to have a lot of depth. (Unless you're talking about SuperMicro or something.) An HP DL180, for example, will need around 6-10 inches more depth than any wall-mounted cab can provide.

    So there you go.

  75. should I find a back accessable rack? by Osgeld · · Score: 1

    are you going to be plugging stuff into the back of these computers? you wont be as flexible in 25 years

  76. Don't buy a rack. by trum4n · · Score: 2

    2x4's properly spaced work great. Use 2 inch wood screws and your set. Heavy screws, not drywall screws. This is how all my studio gear is mounted, including a 4U computer, and quite a few heavy amps.

  77. Whatever size, get it baffled. by Culture20 · · Score: 1

    A nice soundproofed rack will make all the difference. Bonus if you can also soundproof the room it goes into.

  78. Been here, done this... by cjp3400 · · Score: 1

    and regretted it. Go for the full rack day one for full access. Think very hard about cooling and power. You may very well start small, but it will grow, you will run out of electricity, and it will get hot. I asked my construction company for a dedicated A/C unit, and foolishly let them talk me out of it. Just redid the whole thing with a 3KV rack-mounted UPS, separate A/C unit, and a dedicated 30A circuit. However you go, spend a few bucks on a remote temperature sensor that alerts you when it hits an warning state. My entire setup came close to frying when the house A/C controller kept calling for heat and the server room hit 90 degrees. Construction companies have no idea. You know more than they do, because you are asking the questions and they are not. Don't trust the A/C companies either. Their goal is to sell you stuff they can do quickly, not to listen to what you tell them! Write down what you want, ask them to document their assumptions, show you their math, and give you a written guarantee it will work to your specifications. Good luck. This was the funnest part of the house build by far - at least the second time around!

  79. Re:two RJ-45 per room by ToasterMonkey · · Score: 1

    And wifi speeds suck compared to gigabit ethernet. And exactly how am I supposed to replicated my 47tb with 'small footprint' servers?

    So... you can pick up and move your equipment when you need to do bulk transfers, or run a temporary cable between them. You need to answer this question, how often do you need a sustained 1gb vs. 300mb between separate rooms in your house?

    I can understand some hobbies might utilize fast transfer speeds frequently, but if it needs to be between different rooms in a house, you are just being ridiculous, or you are an _extreme_ outlier.

    Businesses of all sizes often do initial replication locally then ship storage offsite if it saves them from clogging a WAN link for weeks on end. Their cost-benefit analysis does't stop with "but it's faster"

    Only because this is a new home, _if_ the cost is trivial, then my response is fuck it, why not. All you disparaging WiFi in the home are delusional. There is no sound reason for it not to be part of the picture. Tethering everything to one wall in a room "because it is faster" is silly.

  80. Re:two RJ-45 per room by mark-t · · Score: 1

    Wifi has positively abysmal transfer speeds compared to a modern wired LAN..

    It's not that a big deal if you are only moving data between your computer and the Internet, but it can spell no end of difference when transferring large quantities of data from one system to another on one's own LAN.

  81. Low tech by rs79 · · Score: 1

    Fuggit, use concrete blocks and some 2 by 4s. "custom".

    --
    Need Mercedes parts ?
  82. Soundproofing? by Kyn · · Score: 1

    http://www.kellsystems.co.uk/18u_server_cabinet.asp

    We put a couple of the 38U versions of these in an office and they work great. The only knock we have is that the veneer is a bit fragile.

    1. Re:Soundproofing? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If our original poster has a spare $2500 for such a cabinet, he neglected to mention it. Such racks are for conference rooms or demo areas, where server cooling is needed but server noise has to be minimized, and they're quite expensive.

      For roughly 1/10 the price, he can get http://www.homedepot.com/Storage-Organization-Commercial-Grade-Storage/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZbduzZ12l3Z12l4/R-202361005/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=shelves&storeId=10051, and fill the rest of the space with coolers filled with reasonably good Scotch, or maybe several bad women for the housewarming party.

  83. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    2nded. Had massive stuttering with 802.11n when > 1 client tried to stream a BD rip...
    Switched to plain old 100Mbit ethernet with GigE uplink to the media library and... works.

  84. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The data-center style hardware is more reliable and less of a long term expense.

  85. Do it sideways by Leolo · · Score: 1

    First off, 2 rj45 per room and 4 in the living room seems to me as excessive. Yes, a hard line is better then wifi, but that's a lot of copper to put in "just in case" when small hubs are cheap.

    Second, and more importantly, you don't want a rack. Racks and rack mount gear are sexy but only make sense if space is really tight. Like in a colo rack or if you have 1000 servers. Plain old tower cases on a shelf is more then adequate and costs a lot less.

    In my basement I had two closets that were back to back (well, side to side) so I knocked the wall down between them. Now they form a corridor for my gear. I built some deep cantelevered shelves to put the computers on. All of them are in mid or full tower cases, with the back-end towards the main door, front end towards the secondary door. Getting at the back is IMHO more important then the front.

    I also sound proofed the space and the main door. The shelving is on hard rubber mats (cow row) to avoid vibration transmission.

    For cooling and ventilation, I have the secondary door open with 2 120mm fans in a small box I build. I stretched some old stockings over the intake for filters. The scondary door leads into my storage space which never gets above 20C ever.

    1. Re:Do it sideways by spire3661 · · Score: 1

      Hubs require wall warts. That ALONE justifies another run of cable, not to mention you now have a backup line. Also, wifi is not a synonym for ethernet cable. They are not the same and accomplish their jobs in very different ways. Hard line is ALWAYS better, all things being equal. If you can wire it feasibly, then do so.

      --
      Good-bye
  86. I wired my whole house for ethernet and servers by CubicleZombie · · Score: 1

    Now I have a cheap wireless router and a netbook.

    Needs change.

    --
    :wq
  87. Re:Get a rolling half cab, plan for later space us by Pentium100 · · Score: 1

    Seconded on the 42U rack. I have one and it is nice - it is about half empty currently, but the extra height does not take up useful space (I wouldn't put anything on top of a smaller rack anyway) and can be useful in the future. After all, 10 years ago I thought I would have only 1 PC ever so I did not reserve space to others. Result - huge mess.

    Both of my UPSs are not rack mountable so I placed them beside the rack the smaller one (700VA) on top of the bigger one (2200VA).

  88. Go with a rack by kenh · · Score: 1

    I have run Cat5E similar to what you describe (two jacks per room, none in Dining room (duh!) all run to one patch panel in the basement), and I scored a 42U surplus rack off eBay, andrackmount shelves, rails for servers aren't THAT expensive...

    Get the patch panel in the wall, hang a rackmount switch next to it, and then mount servers, KVM, UPS, etc.

    If you prefer, Metro shelving (the metal shelving common in kitchens,etc) is OK (IMHO), but I think you'll want to avoid stacking machines on top of other machines...

    Of course, if you only have one machine Metro shelving may be best - put the system, UPS, etc on the top shelf, the rest are for storage.

    --
    Ken
  89. Shipping rack from SAN by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I took one those shipping racks from a SAN shipment, can be moved if needed and painted to match room.

  90. Re:two RJ-45 per room by menos · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Pick up and move? Temporary cables? Are you seriously trolling or what? I do multi gig transfers daily and mostly automatically. Streaming 1080p to multiple clients would completely saturate wifi and isn't feasible at all.
    Yes there is wifi in my environment but the devices that don't move are hard wired.

  91. Re:two RJ-45 per room by realityimpaired · · Score: 0

    My house is all WiFi connected, but my desktops have extra NICs with gig connections to my server for backups that don't take forever. Wireless is the AOL of connection media- so easy, your grandmother can use it. But it's not good for serious transfers.

    If your backups to the server need gig-e, you're doing it wrong. Using rsync, I was able to backup 5GB of e-mail over an ADSL connection (12mbit) in 14 minutes, because it compresses everything. And that was the initial copy... subsequent daily updates from my mail server (in colocation) to my home fileserver complete in under 10s. Store your user files on a network hard drive, and make sure the fileserver has RAID, and you should be fairly safe. If you *really* want to have a backup in a separate system, then connect a second fileserver on a Gig-E switch right next to the main fileserver, and set up rsync with a cronjob. It still won't come close to saturating the connection for any protracted amount of time, except possibly during the initial sync.

    54-mbit wireless is fast enough to play media from a central filesever on one or two computers live. More than that it does get a little iffy, but that's why you've got 150- and 300-mbit wireless... my laptop is connected using dual band 300mbit wireless, and never has any problems copying to or from the fileserver.

    That's not to say that I don't have NIC's installed. But it is to say that, for now at least, there's no Cat5e going to every room. When I build a new house in a couple of years, there will probably be Cat5e to every room to facilitate an IPTV install, but I expect that I will still mostly use wireless to connect computers, and only plug in to the GigE to install an extra AP if needed, or to connect a desktop computer that doesn't have a wireless adapter. In other words, it'll replace the role that's currently being served adequately by powerline networking adapters.

  92. Rack ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    My colo consists of 15 cable modems and a mess of hardware on the floor.

  93. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Chewbacon · · Score: 1

    Hahaha Wow. No. Thats a bad kitty. Who let you in here? For any serious data transfers in the home, wifi is a bad idea. Even Ethernet over power lines is bad (802.11n is more cost-to-performance effective). It is really worth the effort to pull the line. It would take me 8 hours to ghost my laptop with about 60 gigs vs about 2 over gigabit LAN. I don't always keep the laptop on the wire, only if i have a large transfer and it is too big for portable storage. If you have television coax, you should be able to pull the Cat-5 or whatever twisted pairs through the same hole in the wall cap from the attic. I did this and replaced the wall plates with a coax and cat-5 combo. Was an easy weekend project done in the winter. Fishtape and electrical tape helps.

    --
    Chewbacon
    The Bible is like Wikipedia: written by a bunch of people and verifiable by questionable sources.
  94. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Orne · · Score: 1

    You're telling me. Between three adults we have two wifi-capable cell phones, a kindle, iPod touch, three desktops, two laptops, a net book, a synology nas, a wireless printer, and an Internet enabled flatscreen tv. If I could find the time to run cat5 I would, the poor wifi router is getting a workout.

  95. Have you looked into portable DJ equipment? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    They use standard rack sized equipment as most amplifiers are rackable, along with many of the EQ's and other sound equipment (including cd players). They have some very basic (but decent looking) rack systems on casters ready to go up to 19U, and some slightly smaller setups as well.

  96. Keep it simple? by Chewbacon · · Score: 1

    I pulled all my cat5 myself in an existing structure into my garage and tied it all into a little switch on a small shelf. The cable modem and wireless router is by the tv and attached to said router. In my mancave is a repurposed desktop tower with WHS2011. I thought about doing the whole rack mount thing but I really had more flexibility with the tower setup (drive bays, upgrade room, and such) and there are many many home server storage solutions on the Internet. I put mine in a glass cabinet on an old entertainment center and installed a couple of USB powered fans on the back. If I need to do anything local on the server, the tv in there has a VGA input. Works beautifully. In fact, considering the space you need for a rack, I don't think I'd have it any other way.

    --
    Chewbacon
    The Bible is like Wikipedia: written by a bunch of people and verifiable by questionable sources.
  97. Use Wood by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Built mine out of wood. Cheap, neat, bespoke, quick and can change it anytime you want. One word of warning... FANS ARE NOISY, don't use anything with fans, especially higer powered stuff such as PoE.

  98. Vertical Wall Mount Rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Do a google search for "Vertical Wall Mount Rack". I've used a few of these before and they are very sturdy. A few of them I saw were in the 5-6U size, which would meet your needs.

  99. Do it right by djlowe · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Hi,

    Why mess with custom framing, etc., at all? If you have the means, just get a datacenter-class enclosure, and put it in the basement: http://www.werackyourworld.com/, and be done with it.

    All of this guff about building this, that or the other thing? Screw that - it just adds to construction costs, and limits flexibility. A standard enclosure will suit all of your needs now, and in the future, won't ever require reconstruction, and you'll be guaranteed of future compatibility, since it's made to industry specs.

    In addition, it will be accessible from all sides, assuming you place it so. And, if you have to, you can move it.

    Every time I read about this issue on Slashdot, some idiot wants to proclaim how his "closet" solution is best. You don't want it in a closet, unless you want to have to deal with cooling. In a home, a basement is ideal to help cooling, and noise, and since you're building your home, you can do this, with appropriate planning.

    Get an enclosure, put it it in your basement, with sufficient clearance all around, put in an overhead cable tray if you want to make it all pretty, and be done with it.

    Regards,

    dj

    1. Re:Do it right by O('_')O_Bush · · Score: 1

      Many places in the U.S. can't have basements due to high water tables (most of Florida, along the Mississippi). Your solution is geographically limited at best.

      --
      while(1) attack(People.Sandy);
    2. Re:Do it right by metalgamer84 · · Score: 1

      Ever heard of a sump pump? Come up to the north half of the country, most houses have basements.

    3. Re:Do it right by dr2chase · · Score: 1

      There are places in Florida where the water table is within 3 feet of the surface; 10-15 feet is common, and it's not a little water, it's enough water to pump and water your yard. No-way-no-how can a homeowner afford to keep that pumped dry (and the water management district people would come after you with sharp knives, if you pumped it into the sea). And power can fail -- see recent wind/snow/ice storms up here in the Northeast, or hurricanes on the Gulf Coast.

    4. Re:Do it right by cayenne8 · · Score: 2

      Ever heard of a sump pump? Come up to the north half of the country, most houses have basements.

      Sump pump?

      Hell, we can't even bury our dead underground down here in New Orleans.

      :)

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    5. Re:Do it right by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      There's also other places in the US, like here in Phoenix, Arizona, that can't have basements because builders are all cheap-asses. They'd rather build a giant poorly-insulated two-story house with $500+/month A/C costs, instead of building a one-story house with a basement which would cost a fraction as much to cool in the 120-degree summers.

    6. Re:Do it right by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Houses are almost required to have basements in the north because of the frost line. When you build a house, you have to build the foundation below the frost line (the depth to which the ground freezes in the winter); if you don't, the foundation will shift and crack after a year. The frost line up north is probably around 4 feet deep, so that means you have to dig at least that deep to build your foundation. You can stop at 4 feet, build your foundation, and put the house on a crawlspace, but it's not much more expensive to go ahead and dig 8 feet deep, and then you can put in a basement and get a bunch more floor space for minimal additional cost.

      A sump pump won't work in a place where the water table is only a few feet below ground.

    7. Re:Do it right by StuffMaster · · Score: 1

      You're assuming he is building a house with a basement...

    8. Re:Do it right by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Having had some experience with basements, I would not put my rack full of networking gear in the basement.

      Why not?

      I've had some experience with flooded basements. If I were building a custom home, I would make sure I built my server room on the first floor. This also has the benefit of not having to haul that rack and all its gear down the stairs. And back up, if you later move.

  100. Having actually done this... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    So I've got 75 RJ-45 drops in my house, all going to a 12U wall mount rack. It works just fine. No, I don't have an HP DL360 hanging in it, just a sonicwall firewall, a couple of POE switches, and a QNAP storage server, along with a few other random network devices. It's a house, not a datacenter. You're not going to need back access for the most part, and you probably won't have anything deeper than 18" stored in it.

    Five years, no complaints.

  101. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    If your backups to the server need gig-e, you're doing it wrong. Using rsync, I was able to backup 5GB of e-mail over an ADSL connection (12mbit) in 14 minutes, because it compresses everything.

    Are you serious or just being funny? Text compresses well. Video does not. 5GB is nothing. I have more than 10 TB of video from favorite shows/movies, almost another TB in photos, and about 300 GB of ripped music.

  102. Re:two RJ-45 per room by AngryDeuce · · Score: 1

    Wifi fucking blows ass for anything that isn't basic web browsing. If I can hard-line, I will hard-line.

    Wifi is adequate for the average home that usually has one or two computers, a game console, and maybe a couple phones, but when you're paying for top-tier bandwidth plans from your ISP and have a ton of connected devices it's retarded to piss half of the capability away because you couldn't be arsed to run a fucking cable and get the whole nut at all times. If your electronics aren't moving anywhere regularly, why the fuck would you not just hard-line? The cost of the cable is trivial and installation is a joke.

    PS - TROLOLOLOLO...

  103. Floor mount by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    One good option is the open-frame floor mount racks, which go up 30-40-ish U. You have to move all your rack ears to the middle of your devices for balance, or you'd have to get a 2nd to have rear mount points. Put this about 2 feet away (at least) from all walls and you have space to walk around it.

  104. re: Racks by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I recently picked up a half height, enclosed rack with wheels for my home network at a local computer recycler for a hundred bucks. I can push it into a corner while it's in use and if I need to work on it, I can just wheel it out, remove the sides and have complete access. Highly recommended.

  105. Modest weight, only a few systems? by Antique+Geekmeister · · Score: 1

    If you're only setting up a few systems with modest weight and heat production, in an out of the way corner, consider a half-hight rolling rack if you can find one from a company going out of business, or a local auction house. When my clients have been short of cash for glamorous data centers, I'm helped them find local dealers or even used temporary shelving from a local hardware store, such as Home Depot, for short term and very inexpensive shelving.

    Just be careful not to overload such shelving, and be careful to protect your floors. If you start loading it with equipment, it be heavier than a refrigerator on flooring that isn't designed for that kind of load and damage the floors.

  106. Vertical wall hanger racks by flyingfsck · · Score: 1

    Get a vertical 'wall hanger' rack. Putting it horizontal is just silly.

    --
    Excuse me, but please get off my Pennisetum Clandestinum, eh!
  107. Simple solution by IGnatius+T+Foobar · · Score: 1

    Simple solution: get a modest size rack and snuggle it *sideways* to the wall. It's not quite as obtrusive that way because it doesn't go as far into the room, and then you get access to both the front and the back. In my basement I have a rack sideways on the wall and a desk in the corner behind it. That corner also happens to be where cables from the rest of the house come in, and the service cables arrive there as well (fiber to the home ftw!). Instant geek cave.

    --
    Tired of FB/Google censorship? Visit UNCENSORED!
  108. I've done it by acoustix · · Score: 1

    I have a half-height enclosed server rack for my servers. It's a 22u rack that I found on eBay dirt cheap. There's plenty of room for my multiple servers, SAN and APC 3000VA UPS, 24-port gb switch (not layer 3....yet), 4060 SonicWall firewall, and PDU.

    Stuff like this can be done on the cheap. Yeah - I know that I don't "need" it. But I do lots of experimenting at home since I don't get training assistance from my employer. Soon I'll be adding a 6509 for free (except the power will kill me).

    --
    "A plan fiendishly clever in its intricacies"- Homer Simpson
  109. Racks on Walls by Sylak · · Score: 1

    The majority of Racks i work with on the wall actually swing open so you can access the rear of the equipment.

    Granted, the majority of racks i work with are actually free-standing not wall-mounted

  110. I've tried the server-in-a-closet thing by Polo · · Score: 1

    You need to put a server in a well-ventilated area. Putting it in a closed closet will just lead to grief.

    Grief means: slowly rising temperatures, premature component failures (hard disks), then data loss.

  111. Future proofing = no cables by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Well since we're all moving to tablet and they don't need RJ45s, why put them in? And as we're moving to flash over hard disks, and servers the size of cable plugs, all of this sort of becomes silly.

    My next computer will be a Tegra 3 quad core Android tablet, resolution 1920x1200 (Acer A700 I have it on order), and my next home server will be some micro box that I'll put next to the socket the broadband comes in on.

    That's not FUTURE proofing, that's what I'm doing NOW. So tomorrow I expect things to only get smaller and better.

    1. Re:Future proofing = no cables by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      Well since we're all moving to tablet and they don't need RJ45s, why put them in?

      Because we're not all moving to tablet. Whilst I can see a use for a table for very restricted situations, it would be far too limiting to replace my laptop with a tablet and having both just seems daft, so no, I'm sticking with my laptop as the portable device (and I still have a desktop workstation in my office, lots of screen space is good).

      Because whilst wifi is ok most of the time, occasionally you need the bandwidth of cable. For example, I can watch SDTV in my bedroom on a laptop, streamed over wifi, but HDTV is flakey at best (BBC HD is about 20Mbps, which is close to the bandwidth limit of 802.11g. Add a bit of interference and you're screwed). This only gets worse as the population density of 2.4GHz equipment increases.

      my next home server will be some micro box that I'll put next to the socket the broadband comes in on.

      That's not FUTURE proofing, that's what I'm doing NOW. So tomorrow I expect things to only get smaller and better.

      My home datacabinet contains:
      - Patch panel for terminating the satellite TV coax
      - Patch panel for terminating Cat6 structured cabling
      - Gigabit switch (which amazingly doesn't seem to overheat despite me getting pissed off with the noise and disconnecting the fans years ago :)
      - Test server (rarely gets turned on, but needed for my job occasionally)
      - Sheevaplug server (essentially my "main server" - handles file serving, firewalling, VoIP, runs Mythbackend, etc.)
      - External hard drive (used by the Sheevaplug)
      - DSL modem
      - FXO/FXS gateway
      - DVB-S2 receiver
      - 802.11g access point (actually attached to the outside of the cabinet to avoid being in a faraday cage)
      - Wallwarts and various cabling oddities such as a microfilter for the DSL

      Whilst a lot of this stuff is "small" (e.g. the shevaplug, hard drive, DSL modem, FXO/FXS gateway, access point and DVB-S2 receiver could all be screwed to a wall somewhere), they all have assoaciated wall-warts (annoyingly mostly running at different voltages - everything that accepts a 12v input is already running off a single PSU but there are oddities like 5v and 9v inputs) and generally the mess of boxes and wires is enough for me to be happier just locking it all away in one small wall-mounted cabinet above head height.

  112. Ridiculous self-serving question by AlienIntelligence · · Score: 1

    What a ridiculous self-serving question... "Hey, I got money,
    I wanna blow it by lookin like a big deal. Can you help me
    achieve my asshattery?"

    Multi- terabytes of storage on two computers, mine and
    my roommates. Easily accessible on any of 3 HTPCs and
    3 laptops througout the house. ONE cheap ass router from
    the provider, with 4 ports and wifi. Not one damn rackable
    item anywhere. I did IT for nearly two decades and the last
    fucking thing I want to see in my home, my sanctuary... is
    something that looks like my old work.

    Oh, I get it... closet... riiiight. Closed off, where you don't see
    it. The one where you have to put in its own cooling system
    and monitoring system.

    And no, I'm not spilling forth jelly bile... I have a "perfect closet"
    to house every bit of equipment in. But why? Then I have to cut
    two holes in there and pipe in cooling, which isn't easy or cheap
    here. (The cooling part) And then a monitoring setup to make sure
    it stays cool. Where a regular PC in a regular room will suffer
    the indignities of too much heat... a closet that loses its cooling
    will destroy EVERYTHING. Including things that might not have
    died.

    So, I have this thing called an OFFICE in my home, where my
    work equipment resides. Install an OFFICE in your home before
    you install an "I am self-important rack closet". If you have an
    office, great... you still don't need a rack closet just to break out
    a dozen ports. In fact, the talent there would be to put the switch
    behind a painting or something... like you do a wall safe. THAT,
    would be 'modern'. Use the "closet space" for something useful.

    A home office is always more impressive than a hole you stuff
    all your electronics in. I stopped being impressed by rackables
    in a house somewhere around the first dot com bubble.

    -AI

    --
    For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion
    1. Re:Ridiculous self-serving question by mikael_j · · Score: 1

      Let me sum up your post for you: "I don't want what you want so clearly you're a fucking idiot".

      There, that's about it.

      --
      Greylisting is to SMTP as NAT is to IPv4
  113. Middle Atlantic Slide Out Equipment Racks by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Coming at this from an AV installation background, I'd use something like these:

    http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/roll/axsm.htm
    http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/roll/srs.htm

  114. Back to your question... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Well you obviously have a lot of extra advice that you didn't ask for that may be useful to you but going back to your question... Take a look at the dimensions you have given as everyone else seems to have missed this, the server you have won't fit in the rack you have been offered. The 600 measurement is the 19" rack width the 480 depth is where you want to squeeze a 505 deep server - you will need to cut a hole in the wall to mount that server.

  115. Stick it in a closet by DogDude · · Score: 1

    I don't know why all the supposed Slashdot server experts have to muck with their servers so much. I just throw a cheap P4 in a closet and forget about it. If you need to get frequent, fast access to your server at home that's serving .VOB files over the LAN, might I suggest that you're doing something horribly wrong? I have to get to my server once every few years, when there's a hardware failure, or I need to throw some more hard drives in, but other than that, I have no idea why you'd need to rack mount a server for your home. Do all you rack-mounters also have a mechanic's pit beneath your garage for changing your oil, too?

    --
    I don't respond to AC's.
  116. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    YEAH! nothing beats RAID on ARM with 2.5MB/s throughput and 5-day rebuilds!

  117. Middle Atlantic stuff might work by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Take a look at the Middle Atlantic Wall mounted racks.

  118. full height rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    you get get surplus racks fairly cheaply. the point that I haven't seen people make here is that
    rack infrastructure makes great* shelving. I have a wall covered with sidewise-oriented 2 post
    aluminum telco style racks bolted into the floow. there is some audio gear, switches, servers etc screwed
    into these, but also also alot of handmade fixures for mounting hand tools, a custom sandblast cabinet,
    some tanks for chemicals, a fairly nice mounting system for pressurized gas tanks, etc. you're not
    going to use the floorspace under a wall mounted thingy anyways, and nothing screwed into those
    racks is ever* going to fall over.

  119. Installed a full height rack 10 years ago by EdwinFreed · · Score: 2

    This was when we were remodeling. The cost was negligible compared to everything else. It's been about 2/3 full ever since, and I have never regretted it.

    The thing I do regret is not running enough cable. I put two CAT-5E in each room and it isn't enough. I should have pulled 4 everywhere. I've had to add a couple of runs, and doing that after the walls are closed up is difficult and expensive.

    I've found Wifi to be a poor substitute for wired. When two laptops are backing up trying to watch some video is painful.

  120. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Chewbacon · · Score: 1

    Perhaps we should stop feeding the troll (yeah I'm guilty there). At least he takes his aggression out on us here rather than on the family at home. :)

    --
    Chewbacon
    The Bible is like Wikipedia: written by a bunch of people and verifiable by questionable sources.
  121. I'm probably the wrong guy to ask by Just+Brew+It! · · Score: 2

    My home data center consists of three old PCs (two servers and a router, all running Ubuntu Server), a couple of gigabit switches, and a pair of UPSes, stacked in a corner of my crawlspace.

  122. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Can you explain your setup and software a little more? I'm looking to do exactly this and it sounds great.

  123. The Lack Rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Stackable, you can put wheels on it and comes in different colors...

    http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/LackRack

  124. Re:two RJ-45 per room by INeededALogin · · Score: 1

    If your backups to the server need gig-e, you're doing it wrong. Using rsync, I was able to backup 5GB of e-mail over an ADSL connection (12mbit) in 14 minutes, because it compresses everything.

    Are you serious or just being funny? Text compresses well. Video does not. 5GB is nothing. I have more than 10 TB of video from favorite shows/movies, almost another TB in photos, and about 300 GB of ripped music.

    And that data is completely new everyday? You can't steal, rip or buy movies faster than a Wi-Fi connection could back it up. The grandparent has it correct... Wi-Fi fits be bill for most home needs.

  125. Antennas by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Being a radio geek, I would run coax and cat5 to the roof for an ATSC antenna, a satellite dish & POE Wifi APs (such as a Ubiquiti Pico2).

  126. The Real Thing You Want is Low Power by RudyHartmann · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Good grief. If you're going to run a home network, what the heck do you need a fire breathing data center for? I have done this at my house for my family. I have Cat5 cable running through the house. But no matter how hard I have tried to predict the future of technology, I have missed the boat too often. Forget all the big power hungry servers and resources. It's ridiculous to build a home system that requires active external cooling. The most I have needed was sharing files, printers, DHCP, firewall, webserver, domain controller and a few misc goodies. I have done this all on some tiny super low power Via based mini-ITX based motherboards. The darn things together use fewer watts than my workstation. Most of them run notebook 2.5 inch low power drives. An enclosed area can get pretty hot, but these don't. My one big main server for sharing video, music and other stuff does run some 7200 RPM 3.5" drives, but they go into hibernate when they haven't been used for a while, then do a wake a request is made. Those are 2TB SATA drives that are mirrored. I do want more storage though. I connect my computer, my kids computers and all the TV's. I use some of the TV's for monitors too. I connect the Sony PS3's and I also have a wireless network for my laptop. I have 2 printers. A standard B&W laser printer and a nice color inkjet . I only have 1 RJ45 per room. I use a hub or switch there if I need more. I can control all the security via the main server. I run my own domain too. Anyway, it let's me control what my kids can do or guests. My network is controlled by Linux too. I don't need a rack, or special cooling or any of that stuff. Beware of over engineering. It's all a few tiny cases sitting sideways on a closet shelf. I have ripped my favorite movies and stored them on my servers. I also ripped my entire CD collection of music. It never skips on music or video. I have 2 external USB interface drivew for a backups that I rotate. I always keep one of these at the office in case the house burns down. This is an on going project that has been a lot of fun. Keeping it all cool and the electricity bill is negligable.

    --
    Oh, yeah! Wise guy, huh? Woob woob woob woob! Nyuk! Nyuk!
    1. Re:The Real Thing You Want is Low Power by 2phar · · Score: 1

      +1
      Rack mount is primarily about organization and accessibility when you have large amounts of devices and cabling. In a commercial situation, you have to be able to reconfig a device within hundreds of servers and cables quickly and without disturbing anything else.
      But there are some major downsides at home:

      1. Cost: Rack mount servers are just more expensive. Rack hardware is REALLY expensive. Just the rails alone to mount a rack server can be several hundred dollars.
      2. Power: Rack equip is mostly redundant and high powered, and that means a lot of electricity. Do you really want a 42U WOPR in the basement that's costing $100+ a month on your electric bill.
      3. Noise: Rack mount servers alone may contain over 10 cooling fans. In the data center, noise is not a concern, but as you lie on your pillow trying to go to sleep, do you want to be listening to a steady hum coming through your house framing?
      4. Transport: Keeping things small and ultra low power means you can throw it all in a box and move when you need to. A 42U rack alone is several hundred lbs weight.

  127. My setup is much more modest by bugs2squash · · Score: 1

    A few RB250G switches and some mini-itx servers. I mount them all on a DIN rail on my garage wall. from there I have Cat 5e to every room in the house.

    --
    Nullius in verba
  128. We did an office renovation by GodfatherofSoul · · Score: 3, Insightful

    We did some renovation work on our new office suite and since we had access to the bare walls, we did all the cat6 wiring ourselves. Here's what I came up with.

    * The biggest recommendation I'd make is for you to install good conduits to all your rooms and rooms you might even *remotely* think about expanding network access to. Don't just staple your lines to the 2x4 since that makes it impossible to secure new line later. Factor in the bulk of the cat6 you're running through conduits and make sure you've got plenty of breathing room. You can usually muscle cables through with lubrication, but save yourself the aggravation of having the cable-pull slip off.
    * Keep in mind the directions that you'll be pulling from and make sure that the cables can be pulled without snagging or going around sharp angles. We use angled joints in the appropriate direction for a pull.
    * Leave pull cords/strings inside conduits to each outlet and secure both ends so they don't get pulled inside the conduit later. You'll be thankful later when you have to expand one outlet for your spouse's new printer.
    * Label *both* ends of pull cords and strings.

    Oh yeah, and future proof. Estimate high on outlet usage, use the latest cable standards (assuming it's still 6), and again don't be stingy running cable to rooms you don't think you'll need. If you don't run cable, at least run the conduit and pull-string for later. That Ethernet port might come in handy when you decide to put in a streaming set-top box in the kitchen.

    --
    I swear to God...I swear to God! That is NOT how you treat your human!
    1. Re:We did an office renovation by cbass377 · · Score: 1

      If you are building your new home, you owe it to yourself to lurk the cocoontech forums and check out their wiring guides (see links below). For you television locations you are going to want, at a minimum, 1 RG6 and 2 Cat6. Preferably 4 Cat6 Jacks. Hit monoprice.com for your cable and get Cat6 550Mhz cable. Because that is what you will want to use with HDMI video baluns. If you still have studs exposed you can put in conduit to add more later.

      Wherever you were going to put 1 jack put in two. You can always use the second one for phones, or a network printer, or an access point.

      As for your original question, if I was worried about accessing the back, I would use a two post rack and mount it sideways so the rail was to the front. With quality gear, you won't be back there that much. I did get a secondhand 42U rack but once I had it home, it was too big. I sold it and eventually just moved my equipment into an audio rack.

      Cocoontech Wiring Guides

      http://cocoontech.com/wiki/Wiring_Your_New_House_101

      http://cocoontech.com/wiki/Wiring_Your_New_House_102

  129. 25 ports? by dutchwhizzman · · Score: 1

    Does your switch link at1001 Mbit as well? "Yeah, but these go to eleven."

    --
    I was promised a flying car. Where is my flying car?
    1. Re:25 ports? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "Does your switch link at1001 Mbit as well?"

      1001, 1002... whatever it takes.

    2. Re:25 ports? by pakar · · Score: 1

      might be 24 port switch for the rooms and then one inbound connection to the firewall maybe....

  130. Mount it sideways by phlawed · · Score: 1

    'nuff said.

    --
    Dag B
  131. Here is what I did in my house by Sanctuary · · Score: 2

    I had the house run with a star config, multiple drops in each room, and multiple runs for both rg6 and cat6 to the utilities all back to my central server area. I have a DWR-24-17PD http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/wall/dwr.htm mounted to the studs. Plenty of room in the rack, it swings out and I'm able to access the back. I've been running this config since 2006. I had custom enclosures made for my machines, as the rack can realistically only hold things about 13" deep, but the folks at www.protocase.com made the process of getting custom cases easy.

    Here are somethings you really should think about:
    Add more drops then you think you will need before the drywall goes up, trust me a few years down the road you will wish you had more.
    If you ever plan on getting satellite remember that you need far more runs of rg6 then you would think.
    Also think about multiplexing OTA from the attic and the output from a media server from your rack.
    Have your builder install a HVAC supply and return in the room that will house the rack.
    Most importantly install sound proofing in all the walls around the rack, consider even adding a muffle on the bottom of the door.
    Plan to replace fans with quieter ones, and harddrives with quite or silent ones.
    Get a good UPS for the server room.
    Get a good firewall to cover the entire house and allows you to place a machine or two in the DMZ.
    Use separation on the switch to keep the wifi/LAN/DMZ separate
    Have all the cables simply terminate at a patch panel, trust me this will save you a headache when you need to reorganize something. Also do not let the builder install any of their usual splitters, say for phone distribution, as they tend to degrade the signals and if you run it to the patch panel you can map the rg6 and cat6 drops as needed, and split things with higher end equipment. The builder will likely add a surcharge for everything they do. So stick to just have them run the cables, sound proofing BEFORE the drywall goes up, and framing it proper for the rack if you want to attach it to the wall.

    My builder used a structured wire panel insert in the wall which makes sound proofing that portion nearly impossible.

    I found that my builder was unfamiliar with networking and I had to redo several of the drops that did not test right. So you might be better off not having them connect it up and getting your own patch panel that handles multiple types of cables.

  132. Would we spam slashdot? by Big+Hairy+Ian · · Score: 1

    If only social loot (See cash for tweets thread) were advertising these guys http://www.datalinksales.com/network_racks_furniture/wallmount/home.htm I could be making a fortune on slash dot :)

    --

    Build a Man a Fire, and He'll Be Warm for a Day. Set a Man on Fire, and He'll Be Warm for the Rest of His Life.

  133. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Electricity+Likes+Me · · Score: 2

    Around our house, we have a Cat6 cable tucked just under the couch so when you're sitting down and suddenly find yourself trying to move a lot of data off a laptop, you can plugin fairly easily.

  134. APC netshelter by boef · · Score: 1

    You can also maybe take a look at the APC netshelter cx range...

  135. Why? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If you ask a question why don't you explain what your goal is. I would recommend with the other suggestion. Go with the sex dungeon as you must be into live porno video feeds.

  136. 42U and Plan for the future by Life2Death · · Score: 0

    What I've seen and liked the most is a closet style closet. Make it look like its a closet, but not in a place where people will open the door and try to hang their coats.

    In my apartment we chose the utility room. I put a 42U rack in and the apartment came with Cat5E and coax to every room.

    Some advise is when you build your own, Always over-do it. Put twice the cable in you'd want to. Why not - it will only get more expensive to do this later. What if you put Cat6 on the east wall in the bedroom, but want to put a smart tv on the west wall, or south?

    Smart Home conduits or just regular pvc conduits with pull strings and face plates for future cabling are definetly recommended. We did that in my parents home when the electriction left angry because we were already doing 4 Ethernet, coax, and speaker to each room and thought we were crazy to want more.

  137. Musical equipment rack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Use a musical equipment rack, the ones they use to hold amplifiers and other stage equipment. They're just the right size, wheeled, both sides accessible, and if you ever need to transport them you can just clamp the covers on and chuck it in the boot.

  138. Wiring closet rack not server rack by mysidia · · Score: 1

    but these wall-mounted racks scream 'switch-only' racks to me. What are your experiences? Is it possible to put servers in racks like these, or should I find a 'both-side-accessible' rack instead?"

    Indeed. For a wall-mounted rack, stick with half-depth components. Such as switches, routers, and patch panels. And stay away from components that require full rack depth.

    Possibly very small shallow-depth 1U servers, but make sure to get enough U to have spacing between components.

    Since you're building the place, I would kind of suggest making the room large enough for full access. with minimum 3ft clearance front and back, and ensure adequate exhaust of hot air out the back and import of cool air in the front. Consider using a metal cabinet.

  139. Re:two RJ-45 per room by optimus2861 · · Score: 1

    Pick up and move? Temporary cables? Are you seriously trolling or what? I do multi gig transfers daily and mostly automatically. Streaming 1080p to multiple clients (...)

    Makes you an outlier, perhaps one of the _extreme_ outliers that the GP suggested. Multiple 1080p streams? Really? Just how many TV shows & movies are out there worth watching these days, let alone all at once?

  140. 42U by digitalsolo · · Score: 1

    I have a 42U telco rack in my garage. I terminated all my cable leads and data/voice leads (I ran Cat5E for all of those; it was several years ago before Cat6 was a prevalent or I'd have gone that way) into standard punch panels as well. It's proven very useful. I have a couple of rack mount power strips as well as a 1U switch. The only thing I'd have changed is perhaps going to a 4 post rack to better allow installation of servers. I have a couple of rack mount servers and no easy way to mount them in the telco rack (I'm aware of the kits, but they are both bulky and somewhat expensive).

    --
    Just another ignorant American.
  141. for servers by jon3k · · Score: 1

    If it's including patch panels, switches and server(s) then you should just get a little half height rack on casters.

  142. Wall Mount by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    We set up wall mount racks all the time that have swing arms. Something like this.... http://www.serverrackoptions.com/onlinecatalog/wall-mount/wall-mount-swing-gate-racks.htm

  143. Re:two RJ-45 per room by Electricity+Likes+Me · · Score: 2

    If your backups to the server need gig-e, you're doing it wrong. Using rsync, I was able to backup 5GB of e-mail over an ADSL connection (12mbit) in 14 minutes, because it compresses everything.

    Are you serious or just being funny? Text compresses well. Video does not. 5GB is nothing. I have more than 10 TB of video from favorite shows/movies, almost another TB in photos, and about 300 GB of ripped music.

    And that data is completely new everyday? You can't steal, rip or buy movies faster than a Wi-Fi connection could back it up. The grandparent has it correct... Wi-Fi fits be bill for most home needs.

    Even a few hundred megs takes an uncomfortably long time to transfer over wi-fi though. Heaven help you if you're taking a system image backup - which is worth doing every now and again.

  144. Don't bring your work home with you. by goodmanj · · Score: 1

    Don't think of your home network the way you think of your work network. Buy a small consumer wifi router with a few RJ45 jacks (Linksys or whatever), run cable between your office and your media room, and use wifi everywhere else. Keep your "server" in your office.

    I don't care how big a network nerd you are at work, there is no possible way you're going to saturate a home network built on wireless-N and gigabit ethernet. And while having a 4U server in your basement may make your work buddies grunt with approval, I guarantee you it'd be much more convenient and useful to have the same crap in a mid-size tower desktop in your office.

  145. 240V voltage by snsh · · Score: 1

    One thing I miss in my home is 240V electric supply for my computer equipment. In most North American homes, the only places you find 240V is by large appliances like the oven, clothes dryer, water heater, HVAC, and perhaps the electric car. But you also want it for your home computers. You can get twice the watts per outlet, and your power supplies run more efficiently with 240V. Most (though not all) technology equipment has switching power which plays nicely with 240V, so the only nuisance is managing different cordsets with funny looking plugs.

  146. More jacks for the TV by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Nothing fancy, two RJ-45 per room, four in the living room, and that's basically it.

    You will probably want more than 4 jacks behind the TV. I made that mistake, and recently needed a fifth jack. Luckily my Sonos box (ZP90) has another jack.

    I have a TiVo Series 3, Xbox 360, Apple TV, Sonos ZP90, and a Panasonic Blu-ray player. It's not crazy to think I'll want to add something else, so I'd recommend at least 6 jacks behind the TV.

  147. Mount everything on rails. by Lashat · · Score: 1

    You may need a specific rack designed for the rails. Cost may be a little higher, but they work fantastic for accessing the rack.

    I also saw the wheels on rack suggestion. I recommend both. I like ease-of-use.

    --
    For every benefit you receive a tax is levied. - Ralph Waldo Emerson
  148. Re:two RJ-45 per room by menos · · Score: 1

    Slashdot will hate me but.....
    Server is a WHS box and the PC clients are all Win 7 boxes. All machines do full backups to the server.
    Each TV in the house has a WDTV Live running WDLXTV hooked up to it. These stream 1080p high bit-rate from the server.

  149. Slideout rotatable rack by richardkelleher · · Score: 1

    There are a number of slideout and rotatable rack systems out there. I found this one in a couple of minutes. http://www.cableorganizer.com/home-theater-system/SRSR-rotating-sliding-rail-system.htm

  150. I'm a noob by RPGillespie · · Score: 0

    What kind of home network is this and what can you do with all these servers? Is he talking about installing ethernet jacks into all of his rooms? What is the server rack for? Don't the ethernet cables need to all go to a switch or router?

  151. 24 port might be right by Psychofreak · · Score: 1

    living room 4
    3 bedrooms 6
    kitchen 2
    dining room 2
    breakfast area 2
    den 2

    Right there is 18

    Add in my personal wishes for basement, garage, and workshop gets 24.

    Interesting thing is I don't use my wired network for computers, generally. I have TV's on them. The new systems use a connection for each device, so TV and blue ray are 2 ports. I use wireless for most of the computers.

    No, I do not have this many TV's or computers. This is how many connections I would like in my house.

    Phil

    --
    Laugh, it's good for you!
  152. i guess im not getting it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Her .... if its a self built server why don't you just bring all the connectivity to the front (motherboard 180 rotation)

  153. Why btoher with the racks? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    We're talking about a switch and a light server. You can mount the switch on anything, just have the server sit on a shelf in a standard mATX case. It will look just fine, it's much more flexible than a rackmount, and you can add more by (shock) just putting another one next to it on the shelf!

    Don't overthink the solutions to your problems. Simplicity is king.

  154. Server at Home Solution (or HOTH) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    With a little creativity you can put your server anywhere at home, garage or whatever. http://www.dustshield.com/p-64-telephony-and-rack-enclosure.aspx http://www.dustshield.com/t-products.aspx Go CRAZY FOLKS! GO CRAZY! Seriously, you can store these on HOTH and they are blaster proof.

  155. Easy - Put it inside the wall! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Since the walls are now open, just wire the ethernet switches inside the wall cavities. Most modern routers, switches and computer disk drives can be vertically mounted within the 3 1/2 inch cavity. After installing the equipment, push fiberglass R-19 insulation around them to soundproof and hold them in place. Then drywall over both sides.

    Afterwards, you can add additional wires by punching holes in the drywall, then filling in with plaster. Sometimes the insulation can get in the way. But this is an advantage because it keeps the heat from escaping through the wires. If you hear any rattling, pour a few ounces of acrylic superglue into the cavity, from a hole near the top of the wall.

    You can build drywall hinges that let you open the entire access area, but this may be overkill. Ask your builder to use asphalt composition shingles to finish the wall, so that any rainwater in your basement will not damage the ethernet POE connections. Extra shingles can be rackmounted inside a standard 42U system, and then wired using 220volt Hubble connectors.

    Conduit is probably unnecessary unless you expect to run wires and/or optical fiber and/or wifi communications between your switch and your ultimate access points. Quality plenum-rated 2.4GHz radio connections are usually adequate for today's applications, but for future expansion, I strongly suggest Helical RG-8/U Coaxial Cable mounted inside Heliarc-welded Cat-6B cable with 29" Hg Vacuum Rating and 1-1/2" NPSM Male x Female Cam And Groove Connections. This has worked well for our commercial installation, but you *must* allow adequate room for a technician to reach inside the Cat-6B cable, to remove any TCP/IP packets that get stuck.

    As an alternative, you can build the entire data center inside a commercial-grade Klein Bottle.

  156. Wall swing racks by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There are various sizes, of wall swing out racks available. They mount on the wall and look like a cabinet/rack. but if you need the cables or back side, they just swing out (like opening a pantry door with shelves/stuff on the inside of the door.

    It may not be as 'perfect' as a 72U rack where you can get to the inside and out, but it might work for a house 'server/networking closet'.

  157. Go cheap and get 2 2-post telco racks by VIPERsssss · · Score: 1

    and bolt them to the floor.

    --
    We are eternal, all this pain is an illusion.
  158. Middle Atlantic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If you have money to spare, look at Middle Atlantic's products: http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/main.htm

    They have a wide assortment of wall-mount/slide-out/pivoting/etc. racks that are well built. Other posters have mentioned flimsiness and access difficulties for wall-mounted systems. You won't run into those problems with Middle Atlantic. They sell damn nice units.

    No, I don't work for Middle Atlantic. No, I'm not a paid shill. My last company purchased several MA racks and we were thrilled with them.

  159. check your local university or school for surplus by drkoemans · · Score: 1

    I work for a major university and every two weeks at our surplus store (open to the public) they have at least 3-5 racks. Now, we are an R1 institution so aside from computers, racks for science equipment abound. You can pick up what would easily be $500-600 rack for $25. Everything I've seen has been on wheels. The only downside is it will likely be 42U. Max flexibility if you have the space.

  160. Install conduits, run any cables in them by billstewart · · Score: 1

    Depending on what kind of construction and design your house has, it may not be easy to run new connectivity to your rooms. But if you can do it (e.g. the guy building a new house), what you really should run is conduit. Sure, Cat6 Ethernet wire's going to be good for the next few years, but maybe you need HDMI cables instead, or fiber for your digital audio system, or TV coax, or whatever standard works 10 years from now. If you want to support wire, run whatever size conduit makes sense given your physical constraints, and if you need to run wire, run it inside the conduits. If you're lucky, you won't need them, because everything will be wireless, and if that happens you can use them for centralized vacuum systems or whatever.

    (Of course, I've never done this myself :-) Back when I had a 2-story house, it had lath-and-plaster walls, and really antique phone wires, so the first floor got a few small holes in the floor to run phone wire to the basement, and the cable TV people punched through the outside wall into the living room. I'm currently in a condo, and all the data runs on wireless, most of the phones are cordless, and there are several generations of badly installed cable TV.)

    --

    Bill Stewart
    New Fast-Compression-only CPR http://preview.tinyurl.com/dy575ks
  161. House is event built and it's already dated by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Copper? By the time you're done making up your mind on what rack to use 10ge will be cheap. A house costs a few hundred thousand dollars and you can't spare a few extra hundred for fiber to the rooms? This house wreaks of 1990

  162. people still do by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    rj-45?

  163. Free standing rack all the way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm in the Navy and am therefore used to working with limited space. Several months ago I had to move almost all of my servers off the ship and onto a barge. The room I was given is the proverbial broom closet. The server rack I have may not be "wall mounted" but it's so tight into one of the corners that it might as well be. Let me tell you: trying to work with servers, switches and routers that you can't reach behind to fiddle with is a nightmare. Add to that the issue of restricted airflow and you've got a recipe for unnatural hair loss.

    Sincerly,
    Your friendly sailor

  164. friends house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    A friend of mine finished off his cellar and mounded a rack between two rooms (family room and the furnace/work room).
    the rack was an old APC rack that had a mostly solid front door (center clear plastic, vent left/right of it). so he could get to it fron either side. He had RJ45s in most of the rooms but he didn't bother putting any in the bathrooms (I did give him a hard time for that as you would never know when you would need a connection in there in the future. ;-)

    yes I do have a rack in my office.. (an old rack for DEC RA-91 hard drives)

  165. My experience. by istvaan · · Score: 1

    My wife and I bought our first home last spring, and I knew that I wanted to do something similar with regard to infrastructure.

    I picked out a good location in the basement, and mounted a 4'x8' piece of 5-ply plywood on the exposed studs.
    Then I bought a 12U swing-away enclosed rack from Tripp Lite, model #SRW12US, and mounted it on the plywood using eight Toggler toggle bolt wall anchors with appropriate bolts and washers. Check out the specs on the different anchors, bolts and washers you buy, but this setup is rated to hold about 530lbs (although the manufacturer indicates that I could theoretically hold up to 2120lbs, but it's not recommended.)

    The rack has plenty of space for my patch panel, PoE switch, PDU, and a few 1U servers. What I really like about this rack, through, is that it can be mounted with the door opening to the left or the right, the side panels come off, and the whole front assembly swings away from the wall so that I can work on the back of whatever I have mounted in there. The doors, panels, and swing mechanism all have locks on them that can be opened and closed with the included keys.

    Mounting the rack was actually the easy part. Fishing CAT5 through 115 year-old walls of plaster and lathe has been the hard part. ;)