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Ask Slashdot: Wiring Home Furniture?

b1tbkt writes "So it seems that furniture manufacturers have not yet acknowledged the realities of modern life. Kitchen tables could benefit greatly from built-in concealable receptacles. Even more obvious is the need for electrical wiring in couches and coffee tables. I realize that there are safety (fire) concerns but as it stands most families that I know already have power cords for laptops, tables and phones draped over, under and through their couches at any given point. If someone wanted to wire their furniture with AC or some type of standardized LV DC system, what are some dangers to watch for and what, if any, specialized hardware exists for the purpose?"

235 comments

  1. Easy by genka · · Score: 4, Informative

    Google "countertop pop up receptacle" and you'll find many choices.

    1. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      Google "countertop pop up receptacle" and you'll find many choices.

      Too bad the top 5 results are for link farm crap, and the sixth is for this very article...

      Then again, I included the quotes. Without them, the query is much more fruitful.

    2. Re:Easy by davester666 · · Score: 5, Funny

      Even better with safesearch turned off!

      --
      Sleep your way to a whiter smile...date a dentist!
    3. Re: Easy by AvitarX · · Score: 5, Interesting
      --
      Wow, sent an e-mail as suggested when clicking on "use classic" banner, and got a fast response that addressed my msg
    4. Re:Easy by IICV · · Score: 1

      Those would be terrible in practice though - crud would accumulate in the ridges, and it would get in the way when you want to do something wherever it is.

      Flush ones would be the way to go.

    5. Re:Easy by JWSmythe · · Score: 4, Informative

      Counter top outlets in general are a bad idea.. If they're on the surface, they're bound to get something down in them.

      Every kitchen I've seen has plenty of outlets along the walls, and some on the vertical side of cabinets...

      As for sitting furniture, it's an amazingly bad idea. I'm just picturing a couch.. Kids spilling drinks. The dog pissing on it. Toddlers finding amazing new places to stick metal objects. Hell, drunk friends spilling drinks on them while watching football or in the case of this audience, playing a heated game of D&D.

      If there isn't a wall outlet close enough to where you (he) wants them, have one installed. Contractors are more than happy to install anything you want within the guidelines of local building codes.

      For the furniture manufacturers, they become stupid additions to their line. If they sell internationally, they'd need to offer all the different outlets. If the consumer chooses not to use them, now the customers have the annoyance of dead outlets.

      For movers, they no longer are just skilled at moving heavy objects from Point A to Point B, they have to be electricians. That's assuming they're to be hard wired, and not just plugged in somewhere.

      And never leave it to the consumer to consider the total power load on a circuit, they'll always get it wrong.. I can just imagine an entire livingroom with a couch, loveseat, and other assorted chairs, all plugged into one outlet strip on one socket, with god knows what plugged into every outlet. They already fuck it up bad enough with chained outlet strips on poorly designed home wiring..

      When we have some extra cash to bring a contractor in, we're going to have a good bit of our home rewired. Despite a couple dozen circuit breakers in the box, half the house is on one circuit. At least we're aware of it, and are careful not to overload it. As I've found over the years, this is normal. It's like the construction crew waits for the inspector to sign off on the electrical, and then throws everything else on one long circuit.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    6. Re:Easy by icebike · · Score: 4, Funny

      As for sitting furniture, it's an amazingly bad idea. I'm just picturing a couch.. Kids spilling drinks. The dog pissing on it.

      The kids will never learn, but I wager the dog won't piss on it more than once.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    7. Re:Easy by kilodelta · · Score: 1

      Well - then you just build a GFCI into the thing and call it a day.

      Personally I'd think a 20VDC outlet would satisfy power needs for most laptops out there. Or if you wanted to be really safe, require laptops to run on 5VDC. Then you could just use a USB style charger. Granted you'd have to up the current limit.

    8. Re: Easy by ArhcAngel · · Score: 1

      That's a nice concept. But I would like to see what Legrand would come up with.

      --
      "A person is smart. People are dumb, panicky dangerous animals and you know it." - K
    9. Re:Easy by Shompol · · Score: 4, Funny

      Seeing how I always have water spilled in the countertops (both kitchen and bathroom), I dub these "personal electrocution device"

    10. Re:Easy by Beardo+the+Bearded · · Score: 2

      Yes, and that's why they got taken out of the electrical code a long time ago.

      That's why outlets are supposed to be every six feet, so you're not running cords under all the furniture.

      --

      ---
      ECHELON is a government program to find words like bomb, jihad, plutonium, assassinate, and anarchy.
    11. Re: Easy by ozmanjusri · · Score: 4, Informative

      Or walk around an IKEA. There's plenty of existing furniture that does the job.

      --
      "I've got more toys than Teruhisa Kitahara."
    12. Re:Easy by Dr+Herbert+West · · Score: 3

      Mod parent up. I work with licensed sound engineers, gaffers, and A/V techs all the time...we get loads wrong all the time, and we're trying to do it right.

      Either "electric furniture" is your new business model (yikes!) or don't do it, ever.

    13. Re: Easy by Fjandr · · Score: 2

      Mockett has been producing products like that for years. Not identical, but designed to be built into furniture.

    14. Re:Easy by Khyber · · Score: 4, Insightful

      GFCI does okay until the entire outlet is soaked. Then it's useless as fuck for protection.

      I can see these mounted on a couch or table getting fully-soaked no problem.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    15. Re:Easy by Khyber · · Score: 1

      "I work with licensed sound engineers, gaffers, and A/V techs all the time...we get loads wrong all the time, and we're trying to do it right."

      You're working with the wrong people, for one, for load balancing.

      They're called ELECTRICIANS - something your sound engies, gaffers, and A/V techs very likely don't hold a certification for, let alone completed their journeyman's studies and time.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    16. Re:Easy by CyberTech · · Score: 5, Funny

      Outlets are supposed to be every 12 feet, not 6 -- that's the same "thinko" i did while building (self) my house. The code actually says no more than 6 feet along any wall (i think the wall has to be 4 feet or longer) to a receptacle. This has the goal of making appliances with 6 foot cords work from any point along the wall.

      When I built my house, I was frustrated with my previous 1960's house that had 2 receptacles per room. I said, hell with it, code says 6 feet, I'll make it 4. Note that thinking CORRECTLY, that would have made it 8 feet between outlets.

      It wasn't until I had run wire and boxes to 3 rooms that I realized I'd been wiring for 4 feet between boxes. I laughed my ass off and said fuck it, wired the entire house that way... 115 receptacles later, I was done :)

      AND THERE'S STILL SPOTS I WISH I HAD A RECEPTACLE AT! :)

      --
      -- CyberTech
    17. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This is very easy. There are a few key points.

      1. Use a GFCI outlet (ground fault current interrupter). This will keep you safe in the event of spillage or overdraw, and prevent fires.

      2. Use oversized wire that will support everything you could possibly imagine running on it.

      3. Insulate the wire properly. Use proper boxes and make sure there is no chance of any exposed connectors.

      4. Use common sense. Don't put the outlet in a place or direction where it will be easy to break. Don't run your wire right next to moving parts where it could be cut or shorted out.

    18. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      ... outlets are supposed to be every six feet ...

      Within six feet of any given point along a wall, which is a slightly different thing. Although if you were to look at my house, you might think the rule was every four feet - at least until you got to the rooms I haven't worked on.

    19. Re: Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      $50 for an outlet?!?!!? Are they insane?

    20. Re:Easy by ninlilizi · · Score: 2

      Except its the current thats more dangerous in this situation than the voltage.

    21. Re:Easy by Dr+Herbert+West · · Score: 1

      You're completely right-- and sometimes it's a real bummer when we show up at the place (stadium, concert hall, ballroom, corn field, whatevs) and all the info we need to set up boils down to "isn't that a power outlet over there? It is! Good luck!"

      Hence, the comparison to someone getting back from Ikea with an electric couch and setting it up with... instructions in Swedish?.

    22. Re:Easy by tlhIngan · · Score: 3, Insightful

      The kids will never learn, but I wager the dog won't piss on it more than once.

      Yeah, but how is the dog supposed to pass that knowledge onto its successor?

    23. Re:Easy by icebike · · Score: 4, Funny

      Well, there may be no need depending on the severity of its first experience.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    24. Re: Easy by muridae · · Score: 1

      Not even an outlet, just an extension cord and surge protector shaped like 2 outlets.

      I've got a surge protector under my desk that cost less (and one behind the tv, and . . .) came with more outlets, and USB plugs, a known rating for maximum surge stopped, and it even has fairly standard holes on the back to mount to exposed screw heads. Like telephones, surge protectors have has these holes on them for years; people just don't use them for mounting purposes.

    25. Re: Easy by Sqr(twg) · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I use a similar, but cheaper, soulution. I bought ordinary power strips that have little holes in both ends (for hanging from hooks, etc). Then I attached them with screws to the underside of my desk and kitchen worktable. There, they are always within reach, while out of sight and safe from spilled liquids.

    26. Re:Easy by OhANameWhatName · · Score: 1

      Yeah, we should actually just stop thinking altogether and let google take over

      Google "Google's plan to take over the world" and you'll find much information.

    27. Re:Easy by bemymonkey · · Score: 1

      Or just stop buying laptops, cell phones and tablets with crappy battery life. This is what happens when people buy 17" laptops with quadcore CPUs, power-sucking dedicated graphics and end up wanting to use them on the couch... or when they buy a tablet with less than 8 hours of battery life. It just shouldn't be done...

    28. Re:Easy by cgenman · · Score: 1

      They all have crappy battery life. It may start at 8 hours, but after a year it'll be down to 1 hour.

      Most of my friends have viable home laptops with no remaining battery of which to speak. And these were solid industrial models. Does that mean the whole thing should be thrown out and replaced?

    29. Re:Easy by bemymonkey · · Score: 1

      "They all have crappy battery life. It may start at 8 hours, but after a year it'll be down to 1 hour."

      Now that's a huge exaggeration... I've had my Galaxy Nexus for about a year, and the battery life has not been diminished significantly.

      "Most of my friends have viable home laptops with no remaining battery of which to speak. And these were solid industrial models. Does that mean the whole thing should be thrown out and replaced?"

      Just stick in a new battery... that's the whole point of buying "solid industrial models" with easily replaceable batteries.

      And a laptop with no remaining battery is not in any way shape or form "viable" as a laptop.

    30. Re: Easy by ryanov · · Score: 1

      Was going to post that link. It's a friend of a friend's project. It doesn't perfectly solve the problem, but it's getting there.

    31. Re:Easy by tlambert · · Score: 3, Interesting

      AND THERE'S STILL SPOTS I WISH I HAD A RECEPTACLE AT! :)

      This is why you run wires in conduit at a uniform height in every wall: knock a hole at the right height, put in a new outlet. You may have to pull new wires to get sufficient length to make the connection, but you can pull them in from whatever's on the other end.

      The only thing you have to worry about, practically, is amperage load per line, so you don't end up with too many outlets on a single set of wires.

      This is similar to the idea that the streets should have utility tunnels, rather than buried pipes, so that you can run new cables, fiber optics, waveguides, or whatever technology we haven't thought up yet, without tearing the streets to crap. There are new subdivisions which have this type of infrastructure, but cities are generally too stupid to do public utility reworks this way (or too smart; union payola?) since if you are trenching and cementing anyway, the biggest cost is in the excavation, not the materials. Redwood City, California is actually doing this type of work right now for access to the light rail, and it's the right way to do it for a 25% additional marginal cost.

    32. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

      That's what always happens with safety technology: People get reckless. The purpose of a GFCI isn't to allow you to spill water on a power socket. It's to prevent injury and death in case of an accident. It's not an accident when you put in a countertop socket where people will regularly handle liquids.

    33. Re:Easy by Ly4 · · Score: 2

      ... run wires in conduit at a uniform height in every wall ...

      OK, I'm confused. Is the conduit running horizontally through the wall? And then you reach through the new hole in the wall to tee into the conduit?

      I'm not aware of anything UL listed / permitted by code that works that way.

    34. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      By coincidence, I was just perusing the Santa Clara permits and building codes website today, and read through a document describing kitchen electrical receptacle requirements (A61), as I'm considering a kitchen reno.

      http://santaclaraca.gov/index.aspx?page=1188

      The code addresses your comment about "getting something down in them" like this:

          "d) Receptacle may not be installed face-up in the countertop."

      Building codes are there for a reason. Spill your drink and it starts a fire or gives you a shock? Probably a bad idea. I tend to clean my countertops with a wet sponge... uh oh.

      Embedding wiring and receptacles in furniture is likely to have similar issues, along with problems with flexing and wear. If it's not actually illegal, there are probably regulations galore about how you mount wiring inside a couch, or will be after the first hundred fires.

    35. Re:Easy by Cenan · · Score: 1

      Stop treating rechargeable batteries as eternal - they aren't and nobody promised you any different. Most of them last for a really long time but they are still just consumables. If your laptop can't hold it's breath for more than 1 hour, get a new battery.

      --
      ... whatever ...
    36. Re:Easy by AliasMarlowe · · Score: 1

      They all have crappy battery life. It may start at 8 hours, but after a year it'll be down to 1 hour.
      Most of my friends have viable home laptops with no remaining battery of which to speak. And these were solid industrial models. Does that mean the whole thing should be thrown out and replaced?

      You mean the battery loses most of its capacity in a single year... WTF are they doing to those things?
      I have a 9 year old laptop with a 17" WUXGA display which we use every day with near maximum brightness. When it was new, it could go for about 3 hours on a charge (fairly old CPU and battery technology, 'nuff said). Nowadays, it still gets better than 2 hours on a charge, and it's still using its original battery. So in 9 years of extensive use, both on AC power and battery power, it has lost about 30% of its capacity. And some of that loss was perhaps because we switched it from XP to Linux after a year or so, and Linux is supposed to have worse power management than XP.

      --
      Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. - Voltaire
    37. Re:Easy by Pubstar · · Score: 2, Interesting

      So much this. I used to be a field electrician and a ETC certified repair technician (they make 3 phase 700 amp dimmer racks), and took a job doing audio afterwards. One day in the field my boss was yelling at the electrician for the show to "give him more neutral" because the neutral leg was arcing when he was trying to tie in. Yeah, it tends to do that if you plug in all the hot leads and have all the amps and distro on. I'm still amazed my old boss hasn't killed himself yet.

    38. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0, Interesting

      Running a conduit horizontally in a wall decreases the stability of the wall. Electricians are very wary of doing that.

    39. Re:Easy by dolmen.fr · · Score: 1

      Linux may have worse power management than XP (especially if the manufacturer provides efficient Windows power management drivers, such as ThinkPad), but at least it uses the hard drive much much much less. And this alone should help to increase the practical usage of the battery capacity.

    40. Re:Easy by jellomizer · · Score: 1, Insightful

      There is a reason my most furnature isn't teched up.
      Longevity, most good furnature is meant to last for years and possibly be passed down to generations.
      Technology gets old fast and the latest and greatest, is usually that much better.

      Just think about it this way. If my parents had a digital countertop in the 1980. It would be a vt100 terminal either amber or green screen. And would need 9 or 25 pin serial cable to a PC. And a bulky keyboard.

      Who knows what will be around in 30 years to make our slick multitouch screen seem so out of date.

      --
      If something is so important that you feel the need to post it on the internet... It probably isn't that important.
    41. Re:easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It is no longer legal to put electrical outlets in a floor. They have to be oriented vertically and in a box that is attached to a structural member in one way or another using at least two fasteners.

    42. Re:Easy by tlambert · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Running a conduit horizontally in a wall decreases the stability of the wall. Electricians are very wary of doing that.

      Whereas drilling a hole and just running a 12 gauge Romex through it horizontally makes the wall more stable?

      The ability to do horizontal runs is why there exist "wire protection plates" / "conduit protection plates. Obviously, you do not want a large number of horizontal holes in load bearing 2x4 walls, but then that is why you use 2x6 for them instead of 2x4, at least for stick-built houses. If you use metal studs, they typically have either punch-outs, or just have pre-punched holes (depending on brand) that line up horizontally.

      Almost all plumbing off a vertical stand-pipe requires horizontal holes through the studs, particularly if you are going to a "free standing" or "pedestal" vanity, so that they water cut-offs and hookup pipes are not in the open, and they don't end up looking like hell. Anyone who doesn't hide this stuff in the wall is someone who is either flipping the property, or really doesn't give a damn because they plan on renting the property.

    43. Re:Easy by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      You might want to consider conduit in future. It's ugly but you can reconfigure it easily to add, remove or move sockets. You can get it in the shape of skirting board (or kick panels or whatever they are called in the US) which can look reasonable in a home, or DIY your own version.

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    44. Re:Easy by tlambert · · Score: 2

      ... run wires in conduit at a uniform height in every wall ...

      OK, I'm confused. Is the conduit running horizontally through the wall? And then you reach through the new hole in the wall to tee into the conduit?

      I'm not aware of anything UL listed / permitted by code that works that way.

      No, you:

      1: Cut the conduit to run it into the outlet box
      2: Pull new Romex from the endpoint box, and use a portion of the wire, using the existing Romex for the pull.
      3. This gives you enough wire on both sides to go into the outlet box. You DO NOT TEE.
      4. As long as you are not putting boxes closer than 24" on either side of the wall (fire issue), this is fine.
      5. This complies with 2011 NEC (National Electrical Code) requirements

      So your assumption about T-ing things, at least without a junction box, is a broken assumption in the first place, so the rest of your condemnation is invalid, since it follows from that. (I was first licensed as an electrical contractor at age 15).

      This is generally not a do-it-yourself, unless you have a licensed contractor involved, or are willing to have it inspected by a licensed contractor prior to sale of the house, should you do it yourself. Also, any do-it-yourself electrical or plumbing has to be listed on the disclosure for the property, by law, at least in California.

    45. Re:Easy by CSMoran · · Score: 2

      The kids will never learn, but I wager the dog won't piss on it more than once.

      Yeah, but how is the dog supposed to pass that knowledge onto its successor?

      Through the Baldwin effect, presumably.

      --
      Every end has half a stick.
    46. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's why you have the GFCI further up the chain, or use a GFCI breaker.

    47. Re:Easy by Garybaldy · · Score: 1

      I still work in the field as a rigger/climber/rope access/electrician.

      Anyway flat out amazed with the occasional siting of some idiot tieing the hots in first. Or gawd forbid not confirming that the ground and neutral are not marked as a hot at the other end. I hear of that more often than i would like to.

      Nice to see i have some brothers on this forum.

    48. Re:Easy by wagnerrp · · Score: 1

      Huh? I have a 15" laptop with a quad-core CPU, 12GB of memory, and a 2GB Quadro chip, and I can easily run 7 hours before having to plug in.

    49. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm pretty sure the parent poster (and any electrician) is aware of this, but for anyone else reading this: You do not run romex inside conduit. It's a fire hazard. There is a correct way to do this, but like parent said, it is not really a do-it-yourself project.

    50. Re:Easy by geminidomino · · Score: 1

      I tried that, and was disappointed.

      Not that I expected some evil overlord-esque document to popup or anything like that, but I was kind of hoping it was one of Google's easter eggs.

      Maybe returning some kind of reference to Pinky and The Brain...

    51. Re:Easy by bemymonkey · · Score: 2

      That's because you probably did some research before you bought it. I'm also typing this on a 15.6" FullHD machine with 16 gigs of RAM, an SSD and a HDD and I don't plug in during the day - ever.

      Most people, however, end up with a non-switchable GeForce or Radeon and wonder why they're only getting 3 hours of battery life from a 95Wh extended battery...

    52. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      Actually urine streams aren't solid enough to pass an electrical current back to the pisser. Mythbusters did a show on this, using an electric "third-rail" which has a much higher load capacity than an ordinary house socket.

    53. Re: Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

      Dude, it's $29, not $50.

    54. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Says someone who does not understand how electricity works.

    55. Re:Easy by geminidomino · · Score: 1

      To be fair, you're right, but that might be easier to accept if they were priced accordingly. When a replacement battery costs 25-30% of the replacement value of the machine, it's not hard to understand why running out of usable life feels like a hardware failure.

    56. Re:Easy by TheCarp · · Score: 2

      > When I built my house, I was frustrated with my previous 1960's house that had 2 receptacles per
      > room. I said, hell with it, code says 6 feet, I'll make it 4. Note that thinking CORRECTLY, that would
      > have made it 8 feet between outlets.

      1960's! Oh the luxury!

      My house was built to the 90s codes...that is... 1890s. Original lighting in the house was gas lamp. A friend of mine, was at his grandmother's house up the road and was messing with an old gas lamp fixture and found....it was still connected to live gas!

      With horse hair plaster walls, and a house that was built before electricity, I am just happy everything was converted to 3 prongs and breakers...and that the vast majority (if not quite all) of the old cloth covered wire is gone. (though, I did personally kill one of the few remaining circuits recently, not even sure what it went to, but after it was off for a year from the breaker and nobody complained, I cut it out of the box and capped off the old run with glee)

      --
      "I opened my eyes, and everything went dark again"
    57. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      NEC section 300.18 requires that a raceway be complete before conductors are pulled through it. What you're describing would violate that provision (not that it isn't broken often, but it's still a violation).

      As the other poster noted, conduit is not to be used to run NM-B (Romex), so I'm not sure what you're describing there.

      And your #4 only applies to fire-rated walls, which are relatively rare in single-family construction.

      All of this boils down to: this is slashdot, and not mikeholt.com, so anyone reading this shouldn't base their electrical plans solely on what's been posted here.

    58. Re:Easy by TWX · · Score: 2

      Then try looking at high voltage manufacturers and at conference room furniture. Leviton, Legrand, and Hubbell all make electrical devices meant for installation in furniture.

      I also suggest visiting your local college or university library. They're probably already using this stuff, and will have solutions for both power and data in-place. Take a picture of what you like and look for it on those manufacturers' product catalogs.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    59. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      To be fair, you're right, but that might be easier to accept if they were priced accordingly. When a replacement battery costs 25-30% of the replacement value of the machine, it's not hard to understand why running out of usable life feels like a hardware failure.

      They are priced appropriately for what they are. LiIon batteries are hard to make, and the fact that they're not standardized across manufacturers or even models makes things worse. We're not talking about AAs from Wal-mart.

      It's worse if you buy cheap laptops; your $500 Best Buy weekly deal is going to have a lousy 300-cycle 6-cell battery in it, which will cost $100 to replace in a year or two. A $1300 MacBook has a 1000-cycle integrated battery that Apple will replace for $130

    60. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      As for sitting furniture, it's an amazingly bad idea. I'm just picturing a couch.. Kids spilling drinks. The dog pissing on it.

      The kids will never learn, but I wager the dog won't piss on it more than once.

      Mythbusters tested the myth which states that electricity will travel up a urine stream from train tracks. They found that the urine stream has enough gaps in it that it is very unlikely.

    61. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      Except that at least one major market - the U.S. - is closed to such things. The NEC, IIRC, doesn't let you install any receptacles in the countertop.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    62. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      The wiring up to the wall outlet is protected from overloads by the circuit breaker on the panel. The wiring up to the outlet on the extension cord/power strip is protected either by a local breaker in the strip (often they are integrated with the on/off switch), or is sized to be protected by the panel breaker. So, what's your problem again?

      In normal circumstances, it's not really possible to overload an outlet strip.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    63. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's because you probably did some research before you bought it.

      What a bastard!

    64. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 2

      Huh? What does 300.18 got to do with this situation? Raceway is complete, but then you modify it and it is again complete before you pull new wire through it.

      I do agree about the 24" spacing not being an issue in single-family residential construction.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    65. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      Running Romex (NM-B) within conduit is fine, I don't know where you got the idea that it's not. The conduit needs to be properly sized, though.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    66. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This sounds great, but I am slightly confused about one thing. I was under the impression that NEC does not allow NM/Romex to be inside conduit. Although there have been many lengthy debates on this I think that it could get an inspector worked up (at least around me in Chicago, which is a bit "special" for electrical anyway). Maybe 12/2 in 3/4" woud be OK.

      Most likely I've just mis-understood as usual.

    67. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      Don't be stupid and talk about stuff you don't know anything about.

      1. The normal GFCIs that are required by NEC are not for personal protection! They are designed for protection of property only (fires due to electrically leaky motors, etc). A standard 30mA GFCI will gladly let you die. You need a 5mA GFCI for personal protection, and you won't find that in Home Depot. A GFCI is not a circuit breaker, it won't "keep you safe in the event of [...]overdraw".

      2. A distribution system designed to code is already sufficiently protecting the wiring from overload. The only reason to use larger wire is to keep voltage drops in check on longer runs. Otherwise, oversized wire is completely pointless, it doesn't protect you from anything.

      3. I don't know what the heck you're doing, but wires come insulated, and you're only supposed really to remove insulation, not add to it. The only time I'd even add insulation is when it's part of listed splicing means or used for repair. I have rewired a bunch of stuff in my house, had it pass inspection, and I have not added insulation anywhere.

      4. Code comes first. Yeah, common sense all right, advice from someone who is demonstrably clueless. Yay!

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    68. Re:Easy by logjon · · Score: 0

      Without the quotation marks.

      --
      The stories and info posted here are artistic works of fiction and falsehood.
      Only fools would take it as fact.
    69. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That is why they have notching/boring guides. As long as you follow those you're fine.

    70. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      Yeah, because buying a replacement is oh-so-hard. Yes, you can replace even on unibody Apple laptops with glued-in battery, all it takes is a bit of ingenuity and right tools.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    71. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      I'd still take that VT100 :)

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    72. Re: Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A $5 solution to a $5 problem - good for you for not over-engineering the heck out of something that doesn't need heavy engineering

    73. Re:Easy by fast+turtle · · Score: 1

      I Take you've never watched "Holmes on Homes" ?

      Just seeing some of the crap that Holme's has seen and shown is simply amazing and this is work by licensed contractors.

      This is very easy. There are a few key points.

      1. Use a GFCI outlet (ground fault current interrupter). This will keep you safe in the event of spillage or overdraw, and prevent fires.

      2. Use oversized wire that will support everything you could possibly imagine running on it.

      3. Insulate the wire properly. Use proper boxes and make sure there is no chance of any exposed connectors.

      4. Use common sense. Don't put the outlet in a place or direction where it will be easy to break. Don't run your wire right next to moving parts where it could be cut or shorted out.

      1. 1) Buy a copy of the NEC (national electrical code) book and read it
      2. 2 & 3) Buy the Right wire to begin with as it's the safest and cheapest solution from a reputable place. If you need more protection, then use conduit - both ABS and Steel are available
      3. 3)Common Sense isn't so god damn common. That's why we have Building Codes
      4. 4)use a GFCI (breaker or outlet) varies by location and what's plugged into it

      I think it's more important to have the book before you do any electrical work. They're cheap enough and help you spot crappy work by an electrician you're paying to do stuff.

      Since I've been planning a new house recently - had to get into the NEC and discovered some very stuff. First off, some of the changes actually involve ADA compliance, like no outlet is to be closer then 4 feet from an Inside Corner. This is for wheelchair needs. Another involves height of outlets and switches - minimums and maximums now come into play based on ADA needs. Things you don't think about when planning a home but should and as I'm getting older, they're becoming a bit more important and once I've got the specifications worked out, I'll have an architect draw things up so I can build it. Yes the house is going to be a DIY built because I can. The only reason I'll hire a contractor is for specialized equipment such as diging a basement. It's going to be cheaper to have them do it because they have the tools. For a standard slab or pier fondation, DIY as it's easy enough. Just take your time and excersise care (Measure Twice and Cut Once) still applies.

      --
      Mod me up/Mod me down: I wont frown as I've no crown
    74. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Dear Apple,

      Stop treating rechargeable batteries as eternal - they aren't and nobody promised you any different. Most of them last for a really long time but they are still just consumables.

    75. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      He's describing using the old wire for one side of the connection (see #2). If you completely replaced all of the involved wires, 300.18 wouldn't be in the picture, but most folks aren't going to run everything new - they're going to add the box around the wires.

      And all of this modification and conduit fitting is going to be done through the tiny hole cut in the wall for the new outlet.

      It's tough to get excited by this plan. Adding expensive, hard-to-install conduit did not turn the act of installing a new outlet into a simple operation. It would make even less sense in my area, where drywall guys are much cheaper than electricians.

    76. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      They're called ELECTRICIANS - something your sound engies, gaffers, and A/V techs very likely don't hold a certification for, let alone completed their journeyman's studies and time.

      If you have the proper circuit information (granted, in temporary locations we often don't), you don't have to have electrician training to know how to calculate line levels. Any mildly competent technician can get that right.

    77. Re:Easy by stox · · Score: 1

      Maybe not from a third rail, but just fine from an electric fence.

      Do not ask how I know this.

      --
      "To those who are overly cautious, everything is impossible. "
    78. Re:Easy by Khyber · · Score: 1

      That's not a good idea. The further up the chain, the slower the GFCI cutoff response time (even miniscule as it ay be.) That's why it's built directly into the outlet.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    79. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've never heard of running romex inside conduit - I'm not even sure why the hell one would do it. Its like running 1/2" flex conduit inside of 3/4" EMT - WTF?

    80. Re:Easy by ttucker · · Score: 1

      GFCI does okay until the entire outlet is soaked. Then it's useless as fuck for protection.

      I can see these mounted on a couch or table getting fully-soaked no problem.

      You would certainly need GFI outside of the furniture, otherwise liquid could get to the live circuitry behind the GFI.

    81. Re:Easy by ttucker · · Score: 1

      Except its the current thats more dangerous in this situation than the voltage.

      You are right, and wrong. Current does ultimately determine the severity of electrocution, in that sense you are right. The problem is that the body acts like a resistor, so according to ohms law current draw is determined by voltage. Higher voltage means more current, lower voltage means less. For example, the 500ma provided by a USB cable is more than enough to kill you, but at 5v it can not. Nobody has been killed by a USB cable.

      At 25v, a worst case body resistance would be around 1750 ohms... so by using math:

      i=e/r, 5v/1750ohm = 2 ma

    82. Re:Easy by yurtinus · · Score: 1

      Nobody has been killed by a USB cable.

      I don't know if I'd put money on that assertion...

      --
      +1 Disagree
    83. Re:Easy by D1G1T · · Score: 1

      gaffer /gafr/ Noun The chief electrician in a motion-picture or television production unit.

    84. Re:Easy by yurtinus · · Score: 1

      ...or keep the laptop plugged in when you're just sitting on the couch instead of wearing out the battery.

      Hey, we should talk about the availability of power outlets on the couch!! Where's the Ask Slashdot button?

      --
      +1 Disagree
    85. Re:Easy by tlambert · · Score: 1

      Technically, you only have to pull between the adjacent boxes on either end. If you always put a junction box where the cable enters the wall, and make your connections there, and it has a cover plate, you are talking about, st most, the distance between the junction box and the first outlet, or the distance between outlest, worth of cable replacement, since they are end-pointed each time they enter a junction or outlet box.

      Doing the fitting through a hole cut with a keyhole saw is relatively easy, and you've got the junction and other outlet box open for the re-pull of the wire, so you have access, assuming grommeted boxed, to move the conduit horizontally in the wall to make the connection. Appleton, Thomas & Betts, and others all sell grometted PVC junction and outlet boxes that would permit this.

      It's tough for me to get excited by dry-walling in an area which is using wood panelling, and so would be very expensive to repair. But even without that as an added cost, the color matching for spot painting, or the repainting of the whole wall, kind of offset the relative cheapness of the drywall work for painted walls.

      I typically used 3/4 PVC conduit, which is rated for NM-B Romex, but then most of my work has been places like ski areas, which are in fact commercial (which answers the other posters comment about 24" not being necessary for non-fire walls in residential. But of course, if you have an oven on the other side of the wall, it *is* a fire wall.

      If you have a single level house with attic access, you can always do this:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27uUb2SSCOU

      But the situation wasn't really defined that narrowly. If I'm in the center floor in a house with a second story and a finished basement, my way works better. If I'm in the center floor of a house with a second floor and an unfinished basement, I could push the Romex up without a conduit instead of dropping it down without a conduit, but if a future resident finisheshes the basement later, they are screwed. It's better to plan ahead for modifications.

      PS: All that said, it's also generally a good idea for steel-stud construction to grommet an unused set of holes and run two lines of plastic twine through it, in case you need to lay Cat 6 or home theater, or other wiring at some future point, and you don't want to tear the crap out of your walls. For stick-built, you can drill holes and plate-protect them to do the same thing, but in commercial, I'd once again do conduit.

    86. Re:Easy by Cenan · · Score: 1

      You are right of course - the fact that batteries are consumables are not generally advertised, so alot of costumers will feel like it is a failure of the device rather an expected outcome of use. One could suspect that this is intentional.

      What I would really like is for my laptop to have a feature that will let me tell it when to charge instead of charging indsicriminately. I mostly run mine connected to the wall, cause then i can take out the battery comeplety (a huge source of heat placed directly adjacent to a much too big CPU, go figure) and still use it during the summer heat.

      --
      ... whatever ...
    87. Re:Easy by skids · · Score: 1

      All that being said, a larger voltage with a low current, when sufficiently protected with a power negotiation protocol like that used in PoE, is going to be safer than a high current LV source. A sufficiently low voltage source might not be able to electrocute you, but it's pretty damn good at starting fires compared to a HV source with an effective input resistance.

    88. Re:Easy by Khyber · · Score: 1

      Got news for ya.

      Most gaffers don't have a certification or license.

      I've had to repair three electrical systems out in Studio City.

      Not fun when you're working with 100 amp breakers (for those shitty incan lights) and the shit is all wired wrong or even half-backwards.

      Thank goodness AC is more forgiving than DC when it comes to wrong wiring order.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    89. Re:Easy by Khyber · · Score: 1

      Most 'mildly competent technicians' from my experience have always saturated a circuit, hence leading to cut-outs and equipment failure.

      I don't have any certs or licensing, yet all my shit passes CE/UL/NEC code and my work doesn't fail.

      But I spent more than 6 years studying and personally testing stuff during my self-education during my desire to create high-power LED lighting units.

      And in that time, only 4 units out of 10,000+ have failed. All of them hand-tested and built.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    90. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Outlets like this should always be GFI outlets. It doesn't solve the crud in the outlets problem, but they are designed for use around liquids.

    91. Re:Easy by jimbolauski · · Score: 1

      >

      2. A distribution system designed to code is already sufficiently protecting the wiring from overload. The only reason to use larger wire is to keep voltage drops in check on longer runs. Otherwise, oversized wire is completely pointless, it doesn't protect you from anything.

      It not even that complicated, the gauge of wire that you use is based on your breaker. The max amps on the wire package is all you really need, 14 gauge for a 15 amps breaker, 12 gauge for 20 amps, 10 gauge for 30 amps, 8 gauge for 40 amps...

      --
      Knowledge = Power
      P= W/t
      t=Money
      Money = Work/Knowledge so the less you know the more you make
    92. Re:Easy by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

      Well... The GFI outlet should be that one *and* one closer to the breaker box.

      The outlet can trip and stop itself.. If the liquid (or whatever crud) reaches the cabling, there's nothing but the breaker to stop the short. In the case of your normal bathroom or kitchen, there's usually an outlet elsewhere that is in line before it. For most people who I've had to reset the GFI for, it's been an outlet in the garage up fairly high on the wall.. In one house, it was in a bedroom closet.

      I don't know why people call me to fix their electrical problems, I'm not an electrician. I can search a house and find the GFI outlet. Well, after I've asked them "What did you do to cause it?" Where I live, the answer can simply be "thunderstorm". The power surges will sometimes trip them.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    93. Re: Easy by EnglishDude · · Score: 1

      Amen. Once I hired a qualified electrician to install a RCD after the meter to protect the whole house in one go, a few days later, I had some strange problems with the electrics in my house and so I asked my dad who knew a little about electrics to have a look - the electrician had wired live and neutral the wrong way round, bypassing the protection given by the RCD, MCBs and the fuses in all plugs.

    94. Re:Easy by ttucker · · Score: 1

      I was going to mention the high fire starting potential of using a high current, low voltage source. Power dissipated in a resistor (ie. heat in a bad connection, or damaged wire) depends only on current and resistance.

    95. Re:Easy by ttucker · · Score: 1

      Nobody has been killed by a USB cable.

      I don't know if I'd put money on that assertion...

      You, are a clever person. Maybe it would be more accurate to say that nobody has been electrocuted to death by a USB cable that is plugged in to a standards compliant, and normally functioning USB port.

    96. Re:Easy by tibit · · Score: 1

      Well, that's if the wires are "short", like in a typical single-family home. For long runs, NEC has you calculate the voltage drop and mitigate excessive voltage drop by going to a larger wire size. But this has nothing to do with overloads - the larger wire does not automatically let you install a larger breaker!

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    97. Re:Easy by yurtinus · · Score: 1

      You *could*, but that would just be pedantic, I mean nobody's ever been killed by a USB cable ;)

      --
      +1 Disagree
    98. Re: Easy by JakeBurn · · Score: 1

      As someone who watched a valiant moron urinate on a hot wire of a fence I say bullshit to anyone saying its not true. He could have faked the pain and danced around but I've never heard of a person being able to swell their sack to grapefruit size at will.

    99. Re:Easy by OurDailyFred · · Score: 1

      Most codes have a limit of 12 wired lamp fixtures or receptacles per 15 amp circuit. did that code exist in your jurisdiction and did you wire in compliance with that code?

      Just asking ;)
       

      --
      If your only tool is a hammer, you'll approach every problem as if it were a nail. - Abraham Maslow
    100. Re:Easy by ttucker · · Score: 1

      You *could*, but that would just be pedantic, I mean nobody's ever been killed by a USB cable ;)

      Because a USB cable is an inanimate object... how dumb can I be!

    101. Re: Easy by alexo · · Score: 1

      I for one welcome our sack swelling overlords

    102. Re: Easy by lsatenstein · · Score: 1

      Because you are a techie, with some electrical knowledge, I would expect that your house is mov protected (Hi voltage overload / lightning protector). However, in many older homes (pre 1950), wiring was just a pair going to the outlet, with no third safety ground.
      What people have a tendency to do when they meet a 2 prong receptacle is clip off the safety ground. So, if one of the devices with extra MOVs is purchased, and there is no safety ground, you are, if there is a lightning strike, or some similar fault, taking your life in your hands. Circuit breakers on these adapters are useless, as the typical draw is 5 amperes or less. Breakers in electrical panels are usually rated for 15 amperes, and you could run two toasters on a line, but not three.

      --
      Leslie Satenstein Montreal Quebec Canada
    103. Re:Easy by CyberTech · · Score: 1

      OurDailyFred, sorry, i didn't see your reply until today...

      Most states in the US actually don't specify a per-branch receptacle limit for _residential_ -- you're correct for commercial -- it's 10/13 max, for 15/20amp circuits, respectively. The NEC doesn't specify a limit for residential either, only commercial (where they have to assume an active load).

      I'm in California, and the CEC doesn't limit it here either, except to state that the load must be balanced across circuits.

      However, common sense reigns here, if anywhere. All my circuits were 20amp, and I limited to 10 per branch for general areas, with lower #'s for task- specific areas -- ie, the computer office has just 4 (duplex, 8 outlets total) per circuit, potential "entertainment unit" locations got 1 or more circuits, etc. Obviously this is in addition to the code-required "dedicated" receptacle circuits, ie, laundry, bathrooms, 2x+ for kitchen, and so on.

      --
      -- CyberTech
  2. A few things to watch out for by jason.lindberg · · Score: 5, Informative

    The engineering problems that present themselves with wiring something that has mechanical components adjacent to or in direct connection to electrical wiring is protecting the cable from being damaged and heat generation. This can mean armored cables or flexible conduits, e-chain (for repetitive motion), or other cable management systems. If you are running any electricity though flammable materials then you need to be concerned about the amperage you pull through it and be mindful of how much it heats up as a regular and peak load. This is very important to be mindful of because a conductor may be rated for a certain amperage but at what temp? Make sure that temp is compatible with the rest of the construction materials involved in your furniture. A larger conductor would mean less heat as it passes an equivalent amount of current to a lower gauge of conductor.

    1. Re:A few things to watch out for by afidel · · Score: 5, Informative

      Heats not really a concern as far as flamability, even a 25A 208V circuit pulling 120% of rated load doesn't get over 110F (don't ask how I know this). The only way you're going to introduce enough heat energy to cause something to burn (especially furniture which is doused in flame-retardant chemicals thanks to smokers) is to short something out, so your comments about making sure that chords are protected is spot on.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    2. Re:A few things to watch out for by TrollstonButterbeans · · Score: 1
      And you expect a run-of-the-mill furniture supplier to be good at this for what reason?

      Look, this has its place and maybe will dominate the future --- just lay off the Amish guy and quit giving him grief because your footstool doesn't have USB. Keep it reasonable, you want an iChair? Bother Apple or Google.

      --
      Priest: "Universe from nothing, no laws of physics, sped up time"+ huge discrepancies. Creationism? No. Big Bang Theory
    3. Re:A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How do you know this?

    4. Re:A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      But temps are a concern, due to the rating on the wire itself. NEC code is based upon operation at 30 C (86 F). 110 F means exceeding the rating for the wiring insulation. Obviously when able to dissipate heat to the air you didn't get it hot enough to melt the insulation and start shorting, but if you encase that wire in thermally insulating foam it will get much hotter.

      I've seen extension cords begin to melt, even in open air, due to exceeding rated current capacity (please people, don't put space heaters on any extension cord if you aren't certain of the rating). I once saw an LED rope light melt through closed cell foam when it was accidentally covered. Those are obviously cases of stupidity, but it's worth carefully considering every aspect of your wiring when it's not a standard application.

    5. Re:A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      My power chords are protected by copyright, you insensitive clod!

    6. Re:A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I know this one...

      Due to frequent failures, damaged disks, damaged monitors, I got to monitor some equipment...

      Electricians do make mistakes - such as wiring ground circuits to steel support beams... which don't necessarily (and even when they are) get grounded. Worked fine for almost a year.

      Totally independent work (which happened to be adding an extension to some steel framing across the room) I spotted the failure while it was failing... and actually heard the spitting of the arc welder at the same time as the equipment blew up again.

      It also didn't get fixed until I pointed out the same thing could happen to a 20 million dollar machine installed between where the work was being done and the bad circuit - when lightning strikes.

      The problem with putting electrical wiring in things like kitchen tables is that you cannot trust the wiring that kitchen table is plugged into... Having a table circuit melt in a lightning strike is bad enough - I don't think the UL evaluators would accept it very well, and building codes certainly wouldn't like it.

    7. Re:A few things to watch out for by fermion · · Score: 3, Insightful
      Furniture like this does exist. Last time I was shopping for furniture, about a year ago, I saw sofas and armchairs with power. I have also seen table in all different sizes with center power strips and pop up power, with internet connections. Anyone who has been to college within the past 10 or 15 years is familiar with these. 30 years ago we owned an easy chair with a telephone and remote built into it. I thought it was cool.

      That said there are many reasons why such things would not be standard. First is reliability. While furniture is often warranted for 5 years, electrical components is warranted are generally warranted for a year. This adds complexity and uncertainty. Also, furniture, even for Ikea, is meant to last for years. After 10 years, such configurations may seem antiquated and uncool, like a formica top.

      Then there are liability issues that will occur when someone hooks up a power strip to the table. Sure fuses and the like can reduce the risk of fire, but it will only take one to bankrupt the company. So there is a non trivial risk.

      So I would retrofit. Fot table conduit and hole saws will put as many sockets as you want. For sofas maybe just use a glue gun to attach a power strip to the bottom?

      --
      "She's a scientist and a lesbian. She's not going to let it slide." Orphan Black
    8. Re: A few things to watch out for by chromeronin799 · · Score: 1

      for my desk at home, I simply took a blank wall plate fitted 4 USB cables. Cut a hole in the desk surface off to one side and mounted the plate. The USB cables then go back to an active USB hub mounted under the desk. My MAc Mini is held in place with a bracket under there too, with a circular port at the rear to bring cables up onto the desk. Ive got a USB superdrive uder the stand of my monitor, and keyboard and mous are cordless. The number of people who have simply thought the superdrive awas a new Mac is just rediculous 8)

    9. Re:A few things to watch out for by feepness · · Score: 4, Funny

      , so your comments about making sure that chords are protected is spot on. I've found E, A, and B are good power chords, but they only heat up if you use a wah-wah pedal.

    10. Re:A few things to watch out for by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

      building codes certainly wouldn't like it

      That's the big one... Your local building code is almost certainly not identical to mine. Well, unless you live within just a few miles. There are federal, state, county, and sometimes city codes.

      If you look at the instructions for anything electrical at home improvement stores, there's always a blurb that says have a local contractor who knows the local codes do the install.

      There was a particular type of insulation I was using for a project. It was a roll of foil faced fiberglass. I moved about 20 miles, and couldn't find it at the stores in the new area. As it turns out, it's against code there, but was fine in the other one..

      I also noticed that the blue EPS board wasn't stocked in that store. They told me local codes changed, and it was no longer permitted. That stuff was great for some projects.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    11. Re:A few things to watch out for by kilodelta · · Score: 4, Informative

      Yeah - I've had an extension cord rated for 20A break down at 15A draw. So even the rating is a little suspect.

    12. Re:A few things to watch out for by 50000BTU_barbecue · · Score: 1

      Shouldn't that be chlod?

      --
      Mostly random stuff.
    13. Re:A few things to watch out for by Immerman · · Score: 1

      Heh, try pulling that kind of amperage through a cheapo 18-AWG extension cord and I think you'll find that heat very quickly becomes an issue, and with only a little patience you'll have your even more exciting short-circuit to deal with.

      Which leads to my own bit of advice - if you're going to stick a cable inside a piece of furniture where you can't monitor it for developing flaws, make sure to use a much thicker cable than you think you'll ever need, because sooner or later somebody is going to plug in an electric heater or something, and even if a small cable doesn't cause immediate problems the heat will weaken the insulation dramatically. If you want to be really safe and the wiring won't have to flex after installation you might even want to consider Romex (house wiring cable) - solid-core wiring is much more conductive at a given size. At that point any fire is as likely to be in your wall as your furniture, and your house's circuit breaker should pop before you can do any real damage to anything.

      --
      --- Most topics have many sides worth arguing, allow me to take one opposite you.
    14. Re: A few things to watch out for by Zontar+The+Mindless · · Score: 1

      "Rediculous"? One diculous wasn't enough, then?

      --
      Il n'y a pas de Planet B.
    15. Re:A few things to watch out for by bzipitidoo · · Score: 5, Insightful

      That's only when everything is in good condition. Lot of house fires are started by degraded wiring. Anything that thins the conductive material or loosens a connection can increase the resistance at that spot so it will get hot enough to start a fire the next time someone uses a power hungry device such as a vacuum cleaner. As long as there's nothing flammable nearby, it may not cause any harm, but if this wiring is in a couch, could be a serious problem.

      All kinds of things can degrade the wiring. Ants, especially fire ants and now these crazy ants can chew the insulation, and build nests. I've seen an outlet stop working because the home's foundation had cracked, and shifted the walls enough to pull the wires out of the receptacles on the outlet. Also, builders almost always do the cheapest, shoddy electrical work code and inspectors allow them to get away with. Fortunately code is pretty strict these days, but it wasn't always. Then there's the do-it-yourself home owner who is completely ignorant of code and decides to add some extra lighting or a ceiling fan. Must watch out for older homes. One will find circuit breakers that were poorly designed (Stab-Lok models, for instance), outlets that were never properly grounded or that are near sinks and bathtubs and lacking GFI, and wiring run sideways through the walls or that has no slack or is too close to something else such as a fireplace's chimney.

      If we want to wire up furniture, it will take some effort to do it safely. We've dealt with safety by simply keeping electricity away from flammable material and water.

      --
      Intellectual Property is a monopolistic, selfish, and defective concept. It is "tyranny over the mind of man"
    16. Re:A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      solid core wire has less surface area and is less conductive then stranded wire
      by almost a entire wire size

      a damaged stranded wire will contuinue to work but will cause heat leading to other issuses
      a damaged solidcore wire with heat uo worse if it conitues to work but is more likely to fail entirly
      romex is a bad idea for anything other than in walls

      they make heavy cab tire cables and armoured stuff for a reason

    17. Re:A few things to watch out for by egcagrac0 · · Score: 1

      NEC code is based upon operation at 30 C (86 F). 110 F means exceeding the rating for the wiring insulation

      If you know that temperature is an issue, you use a wire/cable with high temperature insulation. 60C insulation isn't uncommon, 90C isn't unheard of, and if you really need high temperature, there's wire rated for over 500C (but probably not cable).

    18. Re:A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      NEC code is based upon operation at 30 C (86 F). 110 F means exceeding the rating for the wiring insulation

      Nope.
      It's rated for a 30C RISE in temperature. Anything for home use has at least a 90C insulation temperature rating,

    19. Re:A few things to watch out for by Xiph1980 · · Score: 2

      Not quite. The skin effect isn't really noticeable at 60Hz yet, unless you use really thick wire for high voltage / high current applications. That's why they use 2, 3 or 4-bundles in high voltage power transmission lines, instead of a bigger cable.
      Also, stranded wires are generally to prevent metal fatigue, and due to the fact that the individual strands aren't insulated, act as a lower capacity solid core conductor as there are holes inbetween the individual strands if you look at it from a cross-section. As long as you're not flexing the cable too much during or after installation, there's absolutely no need to use the much more expensive stranded wire.

      Neither the skin-effect or the proximity effect are any real issue here. Heat is much more important to take care of. e.g. add a fused plug to prevent overcurrents in the wire, and test how hot a wire gets with all that upholstery, because with enough insulation you could overheat a wire even on only one-tenth of its current rating. When in doubt, install the cables in a tube or hose or anything, and force air through it. Just a tiny bit of moving air will make a lot of difference.

      --
      Manuals are your last resort only
    20. Re: A few things to watch out for by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Who da man? You da man!
      </sarcasm>

    21. Re:A few things to watch out for by Cenan · · Score: 1

      Building codes are one thing - we do all still live on the same ball of mud. Codes are variable depending on what kind of accidents a given local government has seen, but safety around electrical wiring is an absolute, it does not change much with location.

      You can still conform with building codes and do something completely retarded and potentially deadly, for a reference visit any unrenovated building built before 1950. And putting any kind of indentation in a countertop where you prepare food will turn it into a disease ridden peice of crap with time. Complex pop-up solutions just shortens that time significantly.

      --
      ... whatever ...
    22. Re:A few things to watch out for by egcagrac0 · · Score: 1

      Really? Is 90C insulation mandated for, say, extension cords and temporary power taps? (Or are they not covered by NEC?)

    23. Re:A few things to watch out for by Skater · · Score: 1

      One will find circuit breakers that were poorly designed (Stab-Lok models, for instance), outlets that were never properly grounded or that are near sinks and bathtubs and lacking GFI, and wiring run sideways through the walls or that has no slack or is too close to something else such as a fireplace's chimney.

      Our house has Stab-Lok breakers (still). I live in fear that one of these days one of those breakers is going to fail, and of course then I'll be in for an entire panel replacement (although I guess that's better than the other possibility of a fire). When that happens I'll want to upgrade from the current 100 amp service to something a little more modern, adding to the expense. And at some point it'd be nice to have the seven 110 volt circuits we currently have (2 of which are dedicated to furnace fan and fridge, so really 5 circuits for all lighting, outlets, microwave, dishwasher, washer, etc.) split into more circuits...

      I've also found that the original wiring in the attic is stretched taut. I think you could play music on them. I assume they were saving money. Any revision to the wiring requires two junction boxes with an extra piece of wire between them, or something similar. Ideally you'd just replace the wire, but of course it's nailed to the studs inside the wall and you'd never be able to get it back into the boxes, so you're kind of screwed.

    24. Re:A few things to watch out for by tibit · · Score: 1

      Yes and no: building codes are for structure etc. Sometimes they mingle mechanicals in as well. And yes, they do vary quite a bit, and there's at least a few model codes out there. But when it comes to electrical codes, there's really just one in the U.S.: the NEC. Local adoptions may modify it slightly, but it's usually minor. Smaller localities may simply adopt a completely local, usually short, code, to save some money. That's all.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    25. Re:A few things to watch out for by tibit · · Score: 1

      Safety != codes. What's allowed by NEC is certainly disallowed under EU regulations, even where NEC promotes better solutions. Spring-loaded wire nuts are just great, they are a big step forward from european-style connection blocks. The problem with euro-style screw-loaded connections is that there's nothing there to apply positive pressure on the wire over time. With thermal cycles, the screws have a tendency to undo themselves. A properly installed wire nut is pretty much a 100 year solution that requires no further maintenance and is not expected to get loose.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    26. Re:A few things to watch out for by tibit · · Score: 1

      What?! NEC code is not based on operation at any given temperature, they certainly address temperature raise and variable ambient temperatures. You have to do a bit of elementary school math and table lookups to design for operation at any given ambient.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    27. Re: A few things to watch out for by geggo98 · · Score: 1

      We have very sophisticated wire connectors here in the EU. You can see several examples here. Stew terminals are in fact in most cases not allowed any more in the EU (see here for more details)

    28. Re: A few things to watch out for by tibit · · Score: 1

      Anything DIN-rail mounted obviously is out of scope, you don't put DIN rails in an electrical junction box in the wall. The spring-loaded terminals are a complete joke as well, they usually have a couple of tiny points of contact and I personally wouldn't use them for anything but signal wiring. When you have a twisted wire nut, the wires are in contact over a length of a centimeter or more directly wire-to-wire, and they are all also in contact with the spring material in the wire nut itself. And who the heck uses stranded wire inside the wall?

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
  3. Try a two terminal current limiting analog device by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    ...I think it's also known as a fuse.

  4. USB by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Replace one of your current power receptacles with one that does USB also. Those should have GFCI and other good stuff built into them. Now wire those USBs into your furniture. If you want to charge your laptop, etc then plug it into a wall. Not worth sacrificing good chargers that get nice and hot for the slight convenience factor.

  5. UL listed couches? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Quite frankly I don't see furniture manufacturers wanting to go through UL testing and all that jazz just to provide you with power you could get from an extension cord. Though USB power on a coffee table might be nice.

    1. Re:UL listed couches? by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 1

      Exactly. That is the biggest issue. You are creating a class of semi-portable device with ill defined interface with the permanent wiring system. There are ways to do it, but UL becomes quite a pain, and then the same happens for the local electrical inspector.

      The only way i can think to make it work is to have a standardized class-2 (low voltage) power supply that is limited to ~75W. USB is only good for a maximum of 22W, which isn't nearly enough for many applications. FireWire goes to 45W, but it is dead already. Personally, I would like to see 24VAC take off, but that is the least likely solution

    2. Re:UL listed couches? by tibit · · Score: 1

      The inspector only cares about it being UL listed and used in accordance with the listing, unless the local variations to the code prohibit something in particular.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
  6. interested party by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Do to the safety hazards law suits that stop all the fun, the reality is there is probably not going to be a jetsons reality that we will have furniture with wires connected to your couch seems a little silly when you think about it.

  7. Obvious need for couch wiring? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Please elaborate.

    1. Re:Obvious need for couch wiring? by c0lo · · Score: 1

      Please elaborate.

      I'll take a wild guess: making your couch able to deliver a disabling high voltage shock (possible remoted over internet) just in case there's a break-in and the burglar sits on the couch (may also work fine for the case one's teenage kids bring their GF/BF when one's not at home and attempting someone doesn't approve).
      Let me think... I reckon this pertains to the "in-depth security" topic (like in "implementing your defense under the depth of the couch's upholstery/pillows") - one can never be too cautious during these "war of terror", "think of the kids" and "guns control" times.

      Of course, once one has this in place, the one will need to wire the other furniture, at least to support some hidden cameras/microphones.
      Alternatively, one can subcontract the extension to the 3-letter-agencies... or, /. seems to suggest, Google.

      --
      Questions raise, answers kill. Raise questions to stay alive.
    2. Re:Obvious need for couch wiring? by AmazingRuss · · Score: 1

      Also: Helping natural selection work.

    3. Re:Obvious need for couch wiring? by c0lo · · Score: 1

      Also: Helping natural selection work.

      Only if it happens before beta test stage. Otherwise, chances are stacked against victims that may not warrant an "early retirement from the evolution cycle".

      --
      Questions raise, answers kill. Raise questions to stay alive.
  8. office furniture by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    The hardware exists for office furniture - look up all the different connectors/docks/ you can get for desks and boardroom tables

    like these: http://elsafe.com.au/?Itemid=8

  9. Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Litigators in particular would find preinstallation of electrical wiring in living room furniture to be an impressive development in commerce. You'd probably get feature articles here.

    1. Re:Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by pyro_peter_911 · · Score: 4, Informative

      *sigh*
      There's plenty of powered furniture available, and has been for decades. Those crazy "As Seen On TV" powered folding beds have been around for ages. My new couch has push button electric recliners. Most cars today have powered seats; many of those electrically heated.
      The problem I'd have with furniture based power supplies is similar to the problem I have with built in electronics and adapters in vehicles. The lifetime of my furniture and vehicles greatly exceeds the probable lifetime of any consumer electronics power adapter installed in it. I used to work at a high end auto dealership. I installed dozens of iPod adapters (at around $400 a shot. Insanity!) and all of those adapters are worthless to the new generation of i devices that these customers are likely to have. Some of my customers had older vehicles with build in analog cell phones which are now junk that just rides around with them.
      Furniture is even worse. Decent furniture should last a lifetime. By putting a consumer electronics power port into a piece of furniture you're basically admitting that it's going to be trash in less than 10 years.
      Peter

    2. Re:Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm pretty sure some of the fancy La-Z-Boy type things have 110V outlets.

    3. Re:Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by nabsltd · · Score: 2

      Furniture is even worse. Decent furniture should last a lifetime.

      Back in 1987, when I was in college, I bought a fairly cheap couch at JC Penney. Last year, I donated it to charity, as it was a little too worn for me and I didn't have a good spot for it anymore.

      Among other things, that couch lived through parties every Saturday night for 4 years, and later had to deal with 70-150 pound dogs using it as a takeoff and landing zone.

      Admittedly, all furniture was made better back then, but to get 25 years out of something that cheap says that if anything, your statement about how long furniture lasts can't be emphasized enough.

    4. Re:Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by iggymanz · · Score: 1

      you're confused, there is a world of difference in having power go right to a robust metal housing holding a drive motor couple to gear chain or shaft for your folding bed, and running AC wires through the KINDLING that is funiture stuffing and nicely dry long-aged wood frames.

    5. Re:Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by blackraven14250 · · Score: 1

      Decent furniture should last forever, but a lot of what many people have for furniture won't because of the general build quality of some of the large manufacturers. To be honest, on decent furniture, I'd be much happier with a self installed job, since, at least personally, I'd do it in such a way that the electronics unit can be replaced independently of the furniture itself - no glue, no nails, you get the idea.

    6. Re:Torts lawyers would greatly benefit by Polo · · Score: 1

      I've been to a La-z-boy showroom recently and some of their stuff is awesome.

      Drink holders with 110v outlets. Multi-way power recliners, with cool stuff like a headrest tilt option to put your head at JUST the right angle to watch tv. :)

  10. wired furniture by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Oddly I was just thinking the same thing yesterday. I am surprised somewhere like Ikea which tends to try to be forward looking hasn't come up with some integrated furniture yet with these capabilities. I know they are starting to sell tvs and stuff. Having access to ethernet and power ports in desks at work all day in most offices, its a bit jarring to find our furniture options for the home could mostly pass for stuff sold in the 18th century.

  11. What the point? by slugstone · · Score: 1

    Why? Get off the couch and plug it in. It will be more expensive having the couch wired then buying the extension cords you need. What if there is some new cabling needed? New couch time?

    1. Re:What the point? by Miamicanes · · Score: 2

      That's why double-gang divided NEMA boxes and conduit exist. Build the plastic box and conduit into the furniture, ship it with both ends covered by screw-on plates, and leave it up to the end users to wire it as they please (a pair of outlets, a single-gang outlet plus a low-voltage keystone, or whatever).

      With a divided double-gang box fed by separate 1/2" conduits, you can run just about anything. At the other end of one conduit, they could put a 15A 120v RV-type "inlet", like this one: http://inverterservicecenter.com/Marinco-150BBIW.RV (if you wanted to wire both gangs for power, instead of using one for ethernet/fiber/whatever, you'd pull out the box divider at the outlet end and feed both from the same conduit). Carlon ENT conduit is perfect for this purpose ( http://www.tnb.com/ps/endeca/index.cgi?a=nav&N=3819+601+3818 ). Worst-case, they could use Hubbell's funky JLOAD single-gang multimedia outlets, which pair a single 120v power outlet with a pair of low-voltage keystones, designed for use with a special box that shields the high-voltage power away from the low-voltage wiring. ( http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/447768 )

    2. Re:What the point? by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 1

      The problem with that is doing a hard-wired connection to a portable device. If you provide a plug for it instead, you have made an extension cord, which is classified by UL as temporary unless you get a field UL inspection.

  12. Don't by jofas · · Score: 1

    There is a reason furniture doesn't have power cables running all through it.... FIRE. Just don't, please.

  13. Perfectly Safe. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Please, carry on; the 2013 Darwin awards are fast upon us.

  14. Hmmmm by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    A few ideas:
    Dangers:
    +Spills - definitely use wet location hardware and wire. Also GFCI that shit.
    +Tripping - it would be challenging to get power to the furniture if it is not against a wall. If you want a 15 amp outlet, you need a 15 amp cable going out there. And if you want to do it right your sending the ground too.

    Specialized hardware:
    There is lots of wet location hardware and wire out there. There is also tons of surface mount stuff to run wire. Again - GFCI.

    Other idea:
    You could potentially supply power to something using a male to male cord and then plugging it into one of the plugs on the piece of furniture. This would give your flexibility on where it can be plugged in (ie a movable power cord - you can switch which side of the couch or which table leg it is on). However you'd need dedicated plugs for this purpose if you want GFCI protection - your dedicated plugs would be on your line side and the protected plugs on the load side. Different outlet colours are available for this purpose.

    1. Re:Hmmmm by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And proudly ignore the hubbub from the masses who always say NO.

    2. Re:Hmmmm by phantomfive · · Score: 1

      +Tripping - it would be challenging to get power to the furniture if it is not against a wall.

      Problem solved.

      --
      "First they came for the slanderers and i said nothing."
    3. Re:Hmmmm by yurikhan · · Score: 1

      A male-to-male cord seems to be a bad idea. Suppose you plug it into a wall socket before plugging into furniture; then you have an electrocuter device.

      If you are going to need dedicated plugs/sockets for power source, you might as well switch gender on dedicated connectors.

    4. Re:Hmmmm by petermgreen · · Score: 1

      You could potentially supply power to something using a male to male cord

      There is a reason such cords are reffered to as widowmakers.

      If you really want multiple inlets then I guess you could use connectors where both sides are touchproof but even then there would be a risk if someone hooked up too cords to the same peice of furniture. At the very least i'd want to see padlocks and warning notices in such a scenario.

      --
      note: i'm known as plugwash most places but i screwd up registering that here somehow in the past and now can't register
    5. Re:Hmmmm by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "male to male cord"

      FUCKING FUCKING FUCKING DICKHEAD!!!!

      Do not do this ever, or you will kill someone.

      It doesn't matter how "switched on" you think you are, there will come a time when you make a simple mistake and kill yourself with this. Secondly, and much more tragically, you will kill someone else.

      Installing such a thing is tantamount to installing a person-killing booby trap and I would hope that you would be prosecuted as such. If someone is killed by it then you would deserve a 2nd degree murder charge, no involuntary manslaughter for you! /rant

    6. Re:Hmmmm by tibit · · Score: 1

      What's the problem with using male-to-female, with the female end being twistlock like it should be?

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    7. Re:Hmmmm by tibit · · Score: 1

      I somewhat agree. There's ZERO reason for such insanity given that female twist-lock plugs can be had in a local home improvement store, and male twist-lock panel-mountable receptacles can be bought in a local electrical supply store.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    8. Re:Hmmmm by kamakazi · · Score: 1

      I have encountered 2 of these devices in my life. The first one I was a teenager, and still smart enough to realize the only way to make it safe was to immediately cut both ends from the cord.

      If you are into that kind of excitement we could probably make you a phone charger that involved metal contacts on your shoes and a walk on the third rail....

      By the way, there are actually recessed male receptacles, designed specifically to use a normal (or sometimes twist-lock) extension cord, they are seen on the side of most campers and motorhomes, and on the side of my kids playhouse. Makes it easy to make the playhouse electrically safe, just put the extension cord away.

      They even come in rain resistant outdoor styles, or, if you want to drop a buncha money, in actual water proof styles.

      Electrical safety really isn't all that hard, but you do have to avoid being an idiot.

      If you want GFCI for your couch, or anything for that matter, go to your local building supply store (the one contractors use, not the one with blister packed picture hanging kits) and buy a 1 foot GFCI interrupter cord, they are required on construction sites in my area, just plug it between your couch and the wall.

      --
      "Proximity to wonder has blunted our perception and appreciation of it" --Tim Hartnell in 'Exploring ARTIFICIAL INTELLI
  15. This is a stupid idea by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    You should feel bad for proffering it. /Moron

  16. 5 volts, 1 amp (USB) only by raymorris · · Score: 0

    Cell phones, tablets, etc. take 5V DC from USB and draw no more than 2.5 watts (500ma).
    That's not a lot of power, so it could be safe and convenient to run two devices from a 1 amp supply that's fused at the wall plug.

      120V and 240V AC wall power is dangerous. It can provide 2500 watts - a THOUSAND times as much as a USB charger. You might screw up and it be okay, leading to nothing more than a startling shock, or it might kill you. Don't mess with it.

    1. Re:5 volts, 1 amp (USB) only by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Most >7" tablets use way more than 2.5W; examples with which I'm personally familiar include:
      5V 2A over a USB port, including iPad (with USB-A -> custom cable) & HP Touchpad (with standard USB-A -> USB-microB cable)
      15V (!) 1.2A over a USB port, Asus Transformer series including the TF700 I'm typing this on (with USB-A -> custom cable)
      12V 1.5A over a barrel-plug charging cable, Motorola Xoom.

      Now the iPad, Touchpad, and TF700 will all slow-charge at 5V 0.5A if they don't recognize a USB port as being 2A capable (or in the TF700's case, if it's providing 5V instead of 15V), but with the power consumed by the backlight alone is uses most of it, so it's very easy to end up using more than 2.5W and slowly draining the battery even while it's plugged in if you don't use a compatible high-power charger.

  17. Some furniture is already widely available by OhANameWhatName · · Score: 4, Funny

    They've been making custom powered chairs in the US for a hundred years.

    1. Re:Some furniture is already widely available by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Edison was way ahead of his time. He was wiring up home furniture before he even had a cellphone to tell his BFF about it, LOL.

    2. Re:Some furniture is already widely available by greg1104 · · Score: 1

      Edison's electrified furniture was so good, it could handle an elephant!

  18. I can't resist this old joke by willoughby · · Score: 5, Funny

    ...I made a chair for my mother-in-law once. .. My wife wouldn't let me plug it in.

  19. wired furniture is dangerous by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Have you not heard what electric chairs are used for?

  20. Already exists in some furniture, but... by i22yb · · Score: 4, Informative

    I happen to work for a furniture store. This feature already exists in a lot of office furniture and, occasionally, in some living room furniture. You will find it more often in an end table because those are usually placed closer to a wall. You will only find it in sofas and chairs, once in a while, if the piece already contains a motorized reclining mechanism. Otherwise, it's just not a practical application to add to those pieces of furniture. Not many shoppers would pay an extra $100 to have a power outlet pre manufactured into their sofa when they can just plug their device directly into the wall, or get a cheap $6 power strip that will do the job. Also, it would not make sense to put these into a coffee table, because coffee tables are usually placed out in the middle of a room and you would have to run a cord across the floor to power the table. Furniture makers do not want to be sued for tripping hazards.

    1. Re:Already exists in some furniture, but... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Tripping hazard is absolutely critical here.

      Falling over objects on or near the floor is one of the most common causes of hospital admission, and of permanent facial injury. (I would guess that tripping on the charging cord is the most frequent cause of death amongst electonic gadgets too, but they are replaceable). Anything that safely removes a tripping hazard is welcome, but festooning an item of furniture with outlets that welcome more tripping hazards is a bad idea. Adding charging points or dedicated USB charging areas in a home is a great idea, along with reducing the standard cord length (to perhaps 24 inches, rather than 48).

      Standardizing the charging cord on USB, mini USB and micro US was a great idea, but both Apple and Microsoft are doing their worst to undermine standardization and force consumers to use many different chargers for the exact same purpose. Apple and MS have also registered their connector designs to prevent others using the same charger. There are now standard wall outlets with both AC and USB host connectors, which is great when you have standard USB charging devices.

  21. This needn't be complicated by egcagrac0 · · Score: 2

    Look at a Plugmold or similar power strip, mount along the front of the couch. (Underneath, for aesthetic reasons.)

    Something like this means you're not doing the wiring (if you were qualified, you'd just do it, rather than ask), all you need to do is the mechanical mounting (a few L brackets should do nicely).

    Caveat: If you have small children about, this is putting outlets in their reach.

    If you want something like this in a coffee table (or if your couch isn't against a wall), have an electrician install a floor outlet in an appropriate spot.

  22. Take a lesson from science labs by goodmanj · · Score: 3, Informative

    The college where I teach just renovated its science center. I'm very happy with the tabletop power we have in our new physics classroom, and I think the "lessons learned" apply to a kitchen too:

      Don't do low-voltage DC. It'll never be the voltage you want, and plug standardization is a nightmare.
      Don't put outlets on the top of the table. You'll spill, drop crumbs, and ruin the outlets.
      Think about spilled liquids. A lot.
      Make sure you can move the table to the other side of the room without cutting wires.

    Our new physics lab classroom has long, heavy wooden "butcher block" tables with a top that overhangs the edge by an inch. The outlets are on the front edge of the table, protected from liquids by the overhang. The outlet boxes run to a heavy-duty cable with a male plug on the end: you plug the tables into a recessed floor box.

    1. Re:Take a lesson from science labs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      in my shop I have 1.5" butcher block surfaces. close to the lip I have metal power strips mounted
      underneath, so that the plugs face down. its very easy and i've never had a problem with shorts
      even though the air is filled with chips and steel dust. it dont know why you would mount them
      on the side

      and never ever have a receptacle in the floor, for exactly the reasons you mentioned.

      i was at a client the other day and the floor receptacle had a little spring in one of the socket holes,
      i can certainly imagine worse...the power strip on our welding table was arcing over the dust and
      blowing the internal breaker for a while, but eventually it just stopped resetting

    2. Re:Take a lesson from science labs by egcagrac0 · · Score: 3, Informative

      and never ever have a receptacle in the floor, for exactly the reasons you mentioned.

      i was at a client the other day and the floor receptacle had a little spring in one of the socket holes,

      You're supposed to cover floor outlets when there isn't something plugged into them, for exactly that reason.

      All the floor outlets I know of come with integrated covers of some type. Example

    3. Re:Take a lesson from science labs by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      Unfortunately overhangs don't always protect you from spills. Liquid can cling to the underside. Even worse you can't see it happening from above.

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    4. Re:Take a lesson from science labs by gl4ss · · Score: 1

      maybe they had spring loaded covers.. just sayin'.

      --
      world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    5. Re:Take a lesson from science labs by tibit · · Score: 1

      Don't put outlets on the top of the table. You'll spill, drop crumbs, and ruin the outlets.

      There's a good reason why NEC forbids outlets in kitchen countertops, after all :)

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
  23. Pointless article. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Hi, um, I'm a furniture manufacturer. I currently sell kitchen tables ranging in price from about a hundred to several thousand dollars each. My profit margin per unit is already on the order of a few cents to maybe a couple dollars (after all the sizable overhead I already have). Should I assume the millions upon millions of dollars in potential legal liability to give my customers something that NONE of my competitors is giving them (for this very reason,) or just continue making money hand over fist (on the volume) because people don't want to eat sitting on the floor, and periodically replace or update for style reasons, change in family size, or because they destroyed their old furniture during a rage (or rage-er) and have to buy all new dining room furniture?

    Same question goes for living room furnishings.

    Should I do all that just so you don't have to walk a couple feet to the wall where the outlet already is...?

    Tough call. I'll get back to you on that. For now though, just assume until you see EVERYONE selling furniture with this idiotic feature, that no one will, and if you want you can always rig it up yourself, which is really what you should do if you're so very desperate to have your precious outlets.

    1. Re:Pointless article. by Todd+Knarr · · Score: 3, Interesting

      For myself, the reason I don't buy furniture with this feature is that nobody offers it. Period. The problem with wall outlets is that they're all too often behind the furniture where people will be needing the power. So I end up with power bars everywhere, often attached permanently to furniture where power's needed.

      You'll notice that in office environments all furniture is equipped for power. There's outlets in the floor, and every desk and counter and a lot of fixed tables have power bars along them or underneath them. My office desks at home have cut-outs for power and provision for attaching power bars. And everybody I know asks one question every time they're looking at a house: "Are the circuits 20A?".

      Let me ask this: if nobody needs power outlets, why do power strips and boxes sell so well and why do so many homes have so many of them? Answer: because people need outlets that aren't 2-outlet wall boxes, and few people have the skills and the workshop to actually create furniture equipped for what they want so they cobble together what they need from what they can get.

    2. Re:Pointless article. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm in the commodity sector of a large industry. Should I invest in a USP for my product? HELL NO - NOBODY ELSE IN THE COMMODITY SECTOR DOES.

    3. Re:Pointless article. by ledow · · Score: 1

      Define furniture.

      If you want all-wooden gear and solid plastics like you'd use in an office, then making room for a cable / box isn't difficult. Hell, computer desks have existed for decades. Look into schools, where they have some lovely (and ludicrously expensive) desking solutions for IT suites.

      The problem is that most home furniture ISN'T like that. If it is wooden, it's quite ornate and not really suited to drilling huge holes in for cables and power strips. And the rest of it is fabric, leather, and other materials that don't bode well for permanent electrical installation.

      The fact of the matter is that most people dangle cables because most furniture doesn't incorporate them (and they do exist, don't kid yourself, but they are rare precisely because nobody wants them or the hassle - the closest you really get are the integrated horrible American idea of "lazeeboys" or whatever they're called with sound systems built in), and that's on their own head.

      Building a fabric sofa, for example, with power ports on it that needs to cope with kids jumping on the sofa, drinks being spilled on it, etc. etc. isn't something that a company wants to take liability for. From a liability point of view, you're looking at IP67 sockets with tough metal housings integrated into a relatively flimsy supporting structure that is soft and moves a lot. You're also exposed to the problems of fire and fire retardant materials which probably makes it quite expensive before you start. And then you have to cater for every possible combination of layout (i.e. where do you pull the power lead out of the back of the sofa to, how long can it be, etc.?), heatflow, etc. There's a reason that 99.9% of the electrical items in your house use solid materials for the main electricity-carrying-parts and fabric only for covers (at a suitable distance, e.g. lampshades) and not for the main parts.

      There's just too much to take account of. Sure you can do it. Sure, an electrician who was handy with tools would get it done right in his own home. But selling them to the general public is a bit of a liability nightmare. And, to be honest, they make the furniture look damn ugly, whereas a socket can be tucked out of the way when you're finished with it.

      Similarly, I want to wire my shed at the bottom of my garden. To pay an electrician to do it properly will cost a fortune and involve digging a 65 foot long trench and dropping a very expensive armoured cable into it, fitting a fuse box, wiring into the house mains, losing a lot of electrical power because of the voltage drop at such a distance, lots of waterproofing and compliance testing and all sorts.

      My solution? I bought a caravan "commando connector" socket, such as are used on building and caravan sites, and will have it fitted and certified by an electrician. It's waterproof and the only bit that needs to be "certified" to be legal. It's not the local government's business unlike if I have a permanent installation to the shed (which is actually illegal in my jurisdiction unless a qualified electrician signs off on the whole installation).

      What you plug into it? That's up to you. Sure, if I kill someone, I'll be sued, but I don't have to check in with every wiring change or have huge underground cables dug in and certified in order to use it.

      Then I can buy pre-made extension cables and pre-made socket adaptors to give you normal sockets on the other end. If one breaks? I buy another. I don't need it recertified. Not an ideal permanent solution, but it does what I need it to and requires the minimum of certification and regulation on my part (all the equipment is tested elsewhere before I buy it, etc.). And I can plug in a lamp or a charger or a tool in while in the shed and not have to worry about it. And I don't have to think when digging over the garden beds about what's running underneath them.

      The fact is, electrical certification has some serious consequences and costs to it. And in Europe at least, you would have

    4. Re:Pointless article. by Shados · · Score: 1

      No competitor? hmm? Look around a little. Couches with USB ports in the arms, chairs with sound jacks, tables with eletric and ethernet jacks... They're not exactly common, but they're common enough that random high end european furniture stores in the middle of Boston and NYC have those.

      Its not exactly the norm by any mean, but they're common enough that you stumble upon them just walking in a store.

  24. Power Bars and USB Hubs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Most Power Bars and some USB hubs already have notched holes to slide over screw heads. It's not uncommon to put them on the underside of desks in office/school environments, I would do the same for coffee tales and similar furniture. I would suggest having kid-safe versions in case you have a toddler with a fork however as people might not expect there to be overhead receptacles for the little rug-rats in those places.

  25. It's not exactly new, you know. by techno-vampire · · Score: 1

    Hotels have offered power outlets, network connections and (sometimes) usb connectors on desks and tables for years, now, both in rooms and in their lobbies. I don't remember seeing any on couches, but they often have easily accessible outlets in the wall, or on the floor. The last time I can remember having to get under a table to get to a socket in a hotel lobby was back in 2010. It's not exactly hard to do, you know, you just have to take the same precautions you'd use if you were putting a new outlet into the wall, and make sure your work is up to code.

    --
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  26. Mockett by geekboybt · · Score: 1

    At the office, we've retrofitted a few conference tables with simple parts from Mockett . Pretty straightforward stuff - cut the proper holes, drop in the receptacles, and plug them in.

    1. Re:Mockett by Fjandr · · Score: 1

      Mockett is just awesome. They have some of the greatest furniture-tech integration products on the market.

  27. Electric Chairs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    They are nothing new. Build one that actually works and it just might land you in one.

    Croudsourcing Slashdot for your new cheesemo enterprise is a good start.

  28. watch out for domestic animals chewing wires by ridgecritter · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I had started to babysit a wonderful dog for a friend. The dog liked to sit under my desk when I was working. One day, my Mini wouldn't boot. Dog toothmarks were evident on the low voltage (thank heavens) side of the power block, making it pretty easy to troubleshoot. As he got used to his new surroundings, no further wire chewing, but it could have been a disaster for all concerned. My animal house friends tell me rabbits are the worst, like frustrated EEs with buck teeth...

    Anyway, think about animals, little kids, etc. when you're electrifying your furniture.

    1. Re:watch out for domestic animals chewing wires by Caedite+Eos · · Score: 1

      Anyway, think about animals, little kids, etc. when you're electrifying your furniture.

      That's exactly what I was thinking. That, and how many hits my CC camera clips would get on youtube ... if you know what I mean.

  29. Will be irrelevant someday by michaelmalak · · Score: 1

    Some offices don't even bother with Ethernet cabling anymore; they just use WiFi. This was unheard of 15 years ago, when Slashdot users were no doubt grousing about their homebuilder's oversight for not incorporating Ethernet into their homes during construction.

    I predict 15 years from now, the constant need to be tethered to A/C will be obviated, either through wireless recharging, through improved device charge capacity, or through increased energy efficiency.

    1. Re:Will be irrelevant someday by blackpaw · · Score: 1

      Some offices don't even bother with Ethernet cabling anymore; they just use WiFi. This was unheard of 15 years ago, when Slashdot users were no doubt grousing about their homebuilder's oversight for not incorporating Ethernet into their homes during construction.

      I predict 15 years from now, the constant need to be tethered to A/C will be obviated, either through wireless recharging, through improved device charge capacity, or through increased energy efficiency.

      Or the next GFC/Global Warning/Asteroid strike will have reduced us to scrabbling in the ruins for AA batteries to drive our Nintendos

    2. Re:Will be irrelevant someday by OhANameWhatName · · Score: 1

      Or the next GFC/Global Warning/Asteroid strike will have reduced us to scrabbling in the ruins for AA batteries to drive our Nintendos

      Don't lose hope. Just because the population of the earth is reduced to 500 million it doesn't mean the government black ops in their bunkers won't keep the power plants running.

    3. Re:Will be irrelevant someday by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How is maintenance of infrastructure a "black op"?

    4. Re:Will be irrelevant someday by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      Some offices don't even bother with Ethernet cabling anymore; they just use WiFi.

      I've seen it done, but I still think its bonkers - a few tens (or more) of users hammering wifi to transfer data to/from the file server isn't sensible; especially when the users are using desktops or docked laptops. Hell, even at home I plug my laptop in to the wall network point if I'm going to shift some big files around (I have cat6 structured cabling installed throughout).

    5. Re:Will be irrelevant someday by tibit · · Score: 1

      Wireless recharging, LOL. For anything that's not a solar-powered watch or a calculator, there won't be such a thing over distances beyond inches. Well, unless you want to live literally inside of a microwave oven. If you want to have high power available wirelessly throughout a building, the only solution is to make the building out of metal, size the openings for the wavelength used, and put a transmitter antenna inside. That's precisely how microwave ovens work, you don't need to plug your potato in for it to get hot. Radio waves at any practical frequency will be heavily absorbed by your body, and possibly anything else that's a bit wet, so good luck with that. There's ideas, and then there's reality.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
    6. Re:Will be irrelevant someday by tibit · · Score: 1

      Agreed. For WIFI that works well, you need roaming, and you need one AP per just a couple of PCs.

      --
      A successful API design takes a mixture of software design and pedagogy.
  30. Under the Rug by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Extension cords that run under a rug really will burn a house down. You also need to pay more for extension cords and stay away from discount stores for such items.

  31. It would require everything be custom by Karmashock · · Score: 1

    The thing about furniture is that its generic. Its not for you or your room or your precise purpose but for "someone" with "a room" that might want to do "something" with it.

    That lack of specificity requires things be vague. Furthermore, there is an extreme emphasis on lowering initial cost as regards these sorts of things. And due to the way we manufacture things it is understood that after it has left the factor it won't be upgraded or changed or modified.

    To get what you're talking about implemented you'd need to change the industrial relationship between the things we own, the people that produce them, and how we use them.

    Where am I going with all this? We are entering a phase when the information revolution transforms the industrial revolution. Automation. Micro scale manufacturing. What we get from that is the feasibility of making things for YOU at a price you can afford. What we also get potentially is the ability to modify or alter things over time so that if our needs change we modify the article rather then simply discarding it.

    Imagine if you could buy a generic house with generic furniture but over time build into everything you want without going broke. That's getting more and more reasonable.

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  32. No standard for anything by YoungManKlaus · · Score: 1

    Seriously, we cannot even decide about what plug to use, let alone where to put that plug. There is literally nothing standard about any of these devices which you could build upon.

  33. Re:Try a two terminal current limiting analog devi by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Is this any relation to the RElative Surge Inductive ShunT Operative Reactors with the 3 or 4-color bands on them?

  34. Furniture moves around by houghi · · Score: 1

    Furniture moves around. They are not fixed. Ever been to an office where there are no cubicles? They need false floors to do the wiring to the desks a lot of the time or it comes out of the ceiling.

    For an office false floors are a standard. For a house, they are not. That will add extra cost that most people rather spend on an extra room or paint or windows.

    You will have perhaps 3 extra outlets and for that your new false floor will be too expensive.

    --
    Don't fight for your country, if your country does not fight for you.
  35. I know a nice example of existing art by vikingpower · · Score: 1

    The tables in the reading and studying rooms of the ONB ( Austrian National Library ) all have power outlets concealed under their tops. The tables look like plain, solid wood to the casual stroller-by. Just reach to your left when sitting at one of the pre-indicated places, and you'll find one.

    --
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  36. easy by stenvar · · Score: 1

    In kitchens, you use wall-mounted power strips. In living rooms, you use extension cords and (if really necessary) outlets concealed in the floor. If you really want it attached to the furniture, mount a power strip under the sofa/chair/table.

  37. My dream by V!NCENT · · Score: 1

    The reason I got into studying embedded systems is to work on ubiquitous computing:
    -Put SoC's into everything;
    -Hook everything to a hybrid cloud; (NaaS)
    -Serve it with a cloud server at home; (RedHat OpenStack distro on Fedora)
    -Create an XML-based protocol on top;
    -Have it all talk to each other;
    -Build it all on Minix 3; (so it never crashes and every device server has to be hacked seperately)
    -Enjoy the shit out of modern life!

    Your agenda (GTK HTML5 webapp) knows when you need to wake up and plays your most listened song over Bluetooth to wake you up.But before that happens, the server gives the command to the coffee machine to warm up. All the lights switch on, to destroy the melatonin in your system. The Google self driving car parks in front of your house on time. Your phone tells you as a messenger not to forget your suitcase upon leaving the building. The climate control goes on standby and your tablet is preloaded with relevant presentations for the day. Slashdot articles are read to you in the traffic yam. Etcetera.

    God, I love those guys at Xerox PARC!

    --
    Here be signatures
    1. Re:My dream by kaatochacha · · Score: 1

      Actually, this is my nightmare.

  38. nice by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    nice article, it is useful to me

    http://frdzbook.com/

  39. Ummm... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    "Even more obvious is the need for electrical wiring in couches and coffee tables."

    How is that "obvious"?? I find the wiring in the walls, to outlets in the walls, quite sufficient. I do not actually see any "need" for electrical wiring in my couches and coffee tables at all, or at the least it certainly is not "obvious" to me, in fact it seems thoroughly counter-intuitive.

  40. so do it by Charliemopps · · Score: 1

    If it's such a great idea and no-ones making them, then do it yourself and get rich. I do think, however, that you'll soon realize that most couches are purchased by wives for reasons very different than utility... and the draping of the extension cords is done later by husbands thinking only of utility.

  41. Electric Chairs by patriciacurtis · · Score: 0

    Electric Chairs for when the in-laws turn up!

    --
    http://luckyredfish.com
  42. Quit eating and working at the same place by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Putting outlets in a kitchen table sounds like a good idea until you consider that this makes it far easier to eat while you are working. It is just a effective way of gaining weight! And quit taking food into your office!

  43. Batteries are supposed to be replaced by sjbe · · Score: 1

    Most of my friends have viable home laptops with no remaining battery of which to speak. And these were solid industrial models. Does that mean the whole thing should be thrown out and replaced?

    No, it means they need to fork over the $ for a new battery which is normal for a laptop. Rechargable batteries only have a finite number of cycles in them and the ones in laptops typically show signs of wearing out after 2-3 years, less if the battery is used heavily. I've never seen one older than 3 years that held anywhere near the charge it did when new. Presuming the battery will last the lifetime of the computer is incorrect.

    This is why batteries need to be serviceable. They do not need to be hot swappable or even modular for most people but if you plan to keep the computer for more than 2-3 years there is a high probability you should plan on a battery swap at some point. It's typically not hard to find a replacement, especially if the battery pack is modular. Sometimes you need to get out ye-olde-screwdriver (and occasionally a soldering iron) and crack the case open.

  44. The first few inches are by raymorris · · Score: 3, Insightful

    As I recall, in the Mythbusters experiment, the stream broke up after 12-24 inches or so. The "dog on couch" scenario, or "passed out drunk guy" might be within that distance.

  45. inductive charging? by ai4px · · Score: 1

    Embed an inductive charging loop in the arm of your easy chair. Then set your cell phone on the arm of the chair while you are watching TV. Most Americans would have a fully charged cell phone at all times!!!

  46. Sorry, you're asking the wrong question by Vrtigo1 · · Score: 1

    Most folks that think about this kind of stuff can do it themselves and would be disappointed with what furniture manufacturers think you want.

    Instead of drilling lots of holes in your furniture, why not look at an inductive charging solution for phones? That would be much less obtrusive. For other devices the answers are going to depend totally on what kind of furniture you have, but in general it shouldn't be too hard to snake a laptop cord up through the bottom of a couch so it can be hidden under or behind a cushion.

    Why is this news?

  47. Simple Solution by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    1) Buy a folding table and two modern power strips at your local office supply store.
    2) Buy a package of zip cable ties or two. You'll need the longest thickest ties available.
    3) Unfold the table.
    4) Use the long, thick zip ties to attach a power strip to a leg on each end of the table.
    5) Use more zip ties to secure the cord leading to the plug, if appropriate.
    6) Alternatively, you can turn the table over and epoxy/screw/anchor power strips to the underside.
    7) Alternatively, you can also turn the table upright and epoxy/screw/anchor the power strips to the top.

  48. Nikola Tesla by Skapare · · Score: 1

    Didn't Nikola Tesla solve this problem back in 1901? Just scale it down for home use.

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    now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
  49. Only way to be safe by pscottdv · · Score: 1

    and what, if any, specialized hardware exists for the purpose?

    steel conduit and electrical boxes

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    this signature has been removed due to a DMCA takedown notice

  50. America has power furniture by kawabago · · Score: 1

    The electric chair has been in use for decades.

  51. Small Market and easily fixed by IndustrialComplex · · Score: 1

    I'd say you don't see furniture makers adding these options for non-specialty furniture because of the following reasons:

    1. Any deviation to standard reduces your market. A table is a table, but when you add in ports/outlets you have to pick a trim. Chrome/Wood/Black/Plastic/White... etc. If a table/chair has no extraneous colors/trim then it's a non-factor, but you will inevitably discourage some sales due to personal preference.

    2. Safety concerns. A table/chair just needs to be a table/chair, but the instant you put wires/ports/plugs or even just places for plugs you open yourself up to liability. You've got to test your furniture (or have it certified for it to be carried by certain retailers) and you better have sufficient warning labels that your pre-drilled wire runs are ONLY for 12VDC or less. Of course, you and I both know that the 12VDC wire run will inevitably be run with 120VAC in some cases.

    3. Electrical code restrictions. Sure there is a uniform code, but who knows if you've now created something that is unapproved in certain markets.

    4. Logistics. You are complicating your design. Now, instead of just having to produce a table, you now have extra steps to install or cut boxes for the wires/ports, etc. If someone damages a plug, do you have to keep some spares to sell, or risk getting a bad reputation for not supporting your products.

    And this is my BIG one:

    5. It's easy enough to DIY. If you want ports in your table/chair/etc, the work involved is not that difficult to do on your own. The advantage of DIY is that you likely will get EXACTLY what you want and not 'almost' what you want (I wish this thing had 2 USB ports instead of just 1, I wish it came in yellow...)

    To simplify those points: It's complicated and costly for the manufacturer, the market is small, and most people who would want this are the kind to just do it themselves.

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  52. Not just power, heat too by sdavid · · Score: 1

    A couple of years ago I bought a TV bench with solid front doors. It has adequate provision for cords, but nothing for heat. Similar benches from the 70s tend to have slots top and bottom, I don't know why many don't now. My solution was to install a 160mm case fan and run it with a 12V supply I had kicking around.

  53. Floor monuments by thepacketmaster · · Score: 1

    Your best bet would be floor monuments that enclose power receptacles, and if you wanted you could put network jacks too. Of course, this is only available if you have a floor that can handle this installation, so it may not be for everyone. It's very unlikely that furniture manufacturers will ever want to wire up their products. As you stated, the fire hazards could be a disaster. If the furniture is sold worldwide, it's also unlikely they'd want to deal with the hassles of the various different voltages and regulatory approvals. They're much more comfortable with you stringing your power adapters through the couch and taking all the liability off them.

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    --

    Luck is just skill you didn't know you had.

  54. Kitchen tables, Kitchen lamp by agge · · Score: 1

    For the kitchen tables why not get Kitchen lamps that have outlets or that you can add one or 2 outlets to?

  55. Could we have an explanation for the non sparkys? by reluctantjoiner · · Score: 2

    So firstly, by tying the hot wire first does that mean there's no return path/path to ground, so any current flow could go anywhere, particularly through the person who's plugging in some equipment?

    And does the second part mean not assuming that neutral/ground wires are labeled correctly? And if it is wrong and you connect it anyway what happens?

  56. Re:Could we have an explanation for the non sparky by Garybaldy · · Score: 1

    A yes to the first question. the 2nd is all touring equipment tends to be chassis grounded. So if someone plugs a hot into ground or neutral. Bad things tend to happen when someone touches a rack or instrument and something that is properly grounded.

    Our equipment is typically tied into 200/400 amp services. So you can imagine how much damage that could cause.

  57. why can't we by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    just have wifi electricity?