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Ask Slashdot: How Would You Build a Home Network To Fully Utilize Google Fiber?

kstatefan40 writes I am closing on a house next week which is connected to Google Fiber. I am ecstatic to have a gigabit connection, but the previous homeowner had them install the jack in an awful location. I'm going to be in a situation where I am paying for more than I can technically achieve over wireless. I have purchased a couple of 600mbps powerline adapters, but those still won't fully use the gigabit connection. Is there a better way to achieve a truly gigabit internal connection without substantial structural or wiring modifications?

279 comments

  1. more than I can technically achieve over wireless by Ultra64 · · Score: 1, Informative
  2. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by bhcompy · · Score: 1

    Still introduces unneeded latency. Wire that bitch up.

  3. Just do it by Nemura · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Just put ethernet everywhere, it's not that much work. I asume the house you're moving into will be empty anyway.

    1. Re:Just do it by Macrat · · Score: 4, Informative

      Mod parent up. Running ethernet is the best solution no matter how many excuses you can come up with not to.

    2. Re:Just do it by 0100010001010011 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I was excited to see a good discussion about software/hardware required to route 1 Gbps. How many people are running pfsense or Linux router with Google Fiber? What do people have for wireless? I want to separate my router and my AP. Consumer routers never seem to actually perform up to theoretical speeds or have problems with a large number of clients.

      But instead it's simple answer: Install wires. Do people think that wires don't exist any more? I bought my current house because the basement has drop ceilings and I can wire everything in a day. Wireless is great for browsing the web or watching some videos. But when I need something backed up or want to edit something from a network drive nothing beats good ole ethernet.

    3. Re:Just do it by FictionPimp · · Score: 2

      http://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/ed...

      I dont' have gb internet, but it's the best router I know of for 100 bucks. Pair it up with a good wireless AP solution (I use ubiquiti for that as well) and your golden.

    4. Re:Just do it by chuckinator · · Score: 1

      I agree that installing a proper data infrastructure in a home is key for proper nerding out, and you have a lot of options to go over.

      If you want to go for broke, put a 2" wall mount telecom rack somewhere near ground level (basements and storage closets are perfect for this) to keep noise in the system to a minimum. Go with cat5e or better for data, cat3 or better (cat5 or better works, but is usually more expensive per ft.) for telephone lines, and RG6 or RG59 (RG6 is lower loss, but more expensive and harder to work with, but you're laying down permanent lines) if you want a cable connection. Have a dedicated 20A breaker circuit run to power the installation and a rack level UPS and you're set to run in power outage and brownout situations.

      There is a strong interest in 'cutting the cord' with cable, so you may be able to save on the coax and just not bother. The telephone lines can still be used with a voip box to give you access to the telcos with regular equipment, or you can use something more exotic like 802.11 or some enterprise level VoiP equipment. I'm sure you can keep going further and further along until you've punched all the tickets on your nerd card that you want to.

    5. Re:Just do it by halltk1983 · · Score: 2

      http://routerboard.com/RB951G-... That's what I use. It routes to 5 separate ports, meaning you can have a second WAP for guests on a completely firewalled / routed port, even on a different IP address. It's able to act as a VPN endpoint. Used to do all the sysadmin / netadmin stuff for an ISP, running completely on mikrotik stuff. It worked well, even in really rough conditions. I highly recommend it.

      --
      Watch for Penguins, they eat Apples and throw rocks at Windows.
    6. Re:Just do it by 0100010001010011 · · Score: 1

      That's what I'm thinking. I'd love to tinker with pfSense but with a kid on the way and a new job I don't have hours to dick around with settings. Ubiquity looks like a nice one stop shop for everything for less than a grand.

    7. Re:Just do it by gmack · · Score: 1

      I am not running Google Fibre but even with the 120/20 cable connection I have from Teksavvy, the firewall I built using two PCI Gigabit Ethernet cards and an old Pentium 4 (Debian/iptables/Unbound) is a huge a huge improvement over the AP that was there before. I disabled NAT on the AP and set it up to route from WIFI over the new firewall and even my laptop and cell phone run faster.

    8. Re:Just do it by AmiMoJo · · Score: 2

      The RB951G-2HnD is a bit underpowered for gigabit. If you are not doing much with it then it should be okay, but once you start pushing your connection with large numbers of connections and heavy use of encryption (e.g. VPN) it is going to struggle.

      I'd suggest a high end Buffalo router running DD-WRT. They are designed for the Japanese market where they have had gigabit internet since the early 2000s, so the technology is quite mature now. You will also get 802.11ac rather than just N, which again will help with throughput and having many clients.

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    9. Re:Just do it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have centurylink gigabit and other then a small bit of difficulty getting the pppoe vlan stuff configured exactly the way they want it works as fast as their provided gig modem. The nice thing about the ubiquity is actually being able to set up the network a little more advanced especially things like port forwarding, dyndns, add things on like local dns and things that you simply cant add on to consumer level routers without them being flash-able. It's been rock solid since I got it setup. The setup wasn't that hard to figure out because there's a pretty good community and chances are someone has already wanted to do what you want to do with it and documented it or shared their config.

      Also I agree with everyone that said wire things, I mean if you are going to have a gigabit network connection, have a gigabit network at least to any desktops or servers.

    10. Re:Just do it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Just put ethernet everywhere, it's not that much work. I asume the house you're moving into will be empty anyway.

      And use cat6 cables (or at least cat5e), STP or UTP. That's what I did in my house, and regularly get 700-800Mbps on backups - with a couple of cheap gigabit switches between the PC being backed up and the server receiving the backup. One of the servers is so old that it only has a 100Mbps interface, but it's only used as the public-facing web server. It's Linux-based, but was immune to Heartbeat (wrong OpenSSL), and is immune to the bash bug (uses ash instead).

    11. Re: Just do it by darqik7037 · · Score: 1

      Just do it ++++++ I'm in the middle of nowhere so WiFi is not bothered by neighbors. It's a shared medium and multiple device drag performance down fast. I tried powerline and it worked okay--still use it in some places. Honestly, WiFi is better than power line, but it does help avoid contention. I finally had to break down and start wiring. I bought a 1000' spool and started running wires to places I wanted reliable (or high speed) connectivity. I've had to run wires in every place I've lived. CAT 6A is the long term option, if I had any chance of Google fiber coming here I'd use it. I don't. So, I went cheap with 5e. I'll forever be on 6-12 Mb (aka 18+ power boost) Comcast.

    12. Re:Just do it by amias · · Score: 1

      i bet your power company love you

      --
      [site]
    13. Re:Just do it by devman · · Score: 1

      The EdgeRouter-Lite is definetley a 'prosumer' device and you will have to tinker with it. It is unconfigured out of the box, so you'll have to setup NAT, Firewall, WAN interface, LAN interface and DHCP just to get started really. Fortunately, they have a wizard for a basic SOHO setup now (if you know what your doing you can skip it and setup your network the way you want it). That being said the ERL is an awesome device for what it costs and if you like tinkering with your network (and have a background in Linux, it runs a fork of Vyatta) you'll love it.

    14. Re:Just do it by 0100010001010011 · · Score: 1

      "Tinker a bit with it" and "Figuring out which network card has proper support in FreeBSD" are worlds apart. I don't expect it to know what VLANs I want but just being able to use VLANS makes it better than a $100 router from Walmart.

      Do you know how nice they play with their own access points? I''m probably going to buy a used Nortel 5510-24T. Supposedly you can find them for $100 used because you can't get service contracts for them anyway.

    15. Re:Just do it by shaitand · · Score: 1

      You can ebay a used summit extreme 400-48t for about $100. It has 48 ports, all gigabit. It's a little more complex than a normal consumer switch but there is a gui and it is a layer 3 switch that supports all the routing a consumer needs.

    16. Re:Just do it by 0100010001010011 · · Score: 1

      Firewall/NAT as well? I'm only going to pay for 1 IP from Comcast Business.

    17. Re:Just do it by tlhIngan · · Score: 1

      I was excited to see a good discussion about software/hardware required to route 1 Gbps. How many people are running pfsense or Linux router with Google Fiber? What do people have for wireless? I want to separate my router and my AP. Consumer routers never seem to actually perform up to theoretical speeds or have problems with a large number of clients.

      SmallNetBuilder routinely tests routers in simulated conditions to get their best speeds, so it's not just theoretical, but what they could obtain with their test equipment.

      And the modern high end routers like the Nighthawk or the RT-AC68U (Asus) ARE Gigabit capable - they have sufficiently powerful CPUs (multi-core, 800MHz) and RAM (128MB+) to actually be able to route and NAT that fast.

    18. Re:Just do it by darkmeridian · · Score: 1

      Bite the bullet and run CAT 6 Ethernet all over the place. You will get 1 GBs without any drops, and it's also future-proof. You may not max out your Internet anytime soon but having this in place will let you naturally upgrade your use as technology advances without requiring any changes.

      If you have a NAS or a server, put it next to your fiber in jack along with a suitably powerful UPS. All your major network devices should run from that UPS so you'll be able to have Internet access or a while even when there's a power outage. Run wires from the jack, to your living room, office, and all the other places you will require Internet access. While you're at it, you probably should consider running two strands of wire all over the place. You can either run it in the walls if you feel like it, or use cable covers. Get the wire from Monoprice along with the necessary equipment to install them.

      For Internet that goes up to 1GBs, you should get a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite. It supports wire-speed forwarding and costs only $100. However, the setup might be a pain in the ass. However, once it is set up, it will never go down. And it's really goddamned fast. You might also want to invest in a commercial-grade switch such as the Ubiquiti ToughRouter or a Netgear GS116. You don't want to rely on consumer grade stuff that will blow up (like my RT-N16, which suddenly died one day and left my small office without any Internet for an entire day). The price differential really isn't that big. I can transfer files between my NAS and my desktop at 50-60 MB/s without stalling out other people's transfers.

      As far as access points, you might want to get one or two that are POE from Ubiquiti. You can get their POE switch for the access points so you can run only one wire and be done with it. If you're going to be in the house for a long time, and your usage will only increase as you have kids, etc., then you should spend the time to set up a very robust network early on.

      --
      A NYC lawyer blogs. http://www.chuangblog.com/
    19. Re:Just do it by datavirtue · · Score: 1

      Certainly do not need a 20AMP circuit to support a home networking closet.

      --
      I object to power without constructive purpose. --Spock
    20. Re:Just do it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I just setup a new PFSense install. In under an hour (that included installation and hooking the computer up in the closet of Doom) I was up and running. The actual down time was less than 5 minutes during the actual switch from crappy consumer grade equipment to that.

    21. Re:Just do it by pookie13 · · Score: 1

      I have gigabit internet here in Finland and Edgemax works just fine. I had the 5-port poe version but it broke down because of my roof was leaking just above the router. Now I have Edgerouter pro and I haven't really noticed any difference in throughput compared to the 5-port model.

    22. Re:Just do it by chuckinator · · Score: 1

      Need is relative. I need to have my network up and functional even when a crapping appliance elsewhere trips the circuit breaker, and I need to keep the inductive load noise of the appliance motors out of my data lines. It's also nice to be able to power any systems that I want to mount there that have more horsepower than a modem, router, switch, and VoiP box. Yes, need is relative, but I suppose you don't need a foundation if you're happy walking around on dirt floors.

    23. Re:Just do it by robbadler · · Score: 1

      CAT6 was about $140 for 1000ft at my local Home Depot, and I spend less than a day wiring 4 bedrooms and a theater room. Go for it.

    24. Re:Just do it by 0100010001010011 · · Score: 1

      Both if which are almost twice the price of the Ubiquity.

    25. Re:Just do it by mgcarley · · Score: 1

      They play much nicer now than they did a year or so ago - now you can configure a UniFi server address right there in the DNS so all the APs will more or less self-configure (no more having to detect the device and set them up - good if you're installing a lot of them).

      --
      Founder & COO, Hayai India (hayai.in) / USA (hayaibroadband.com) // t: @mgcarley
    26. Re:Just do it by mgcarley · · Score: 1

      I second the Mikrotik devices as well. At home I have one set up with a private network and a guest hotspot (WiFi) with one port going to my computer, another port going to a switch and another port to my WAN (which is currently a cable modem with a 100mb+ connection until I can wrangle some fiber). Still have a few ports free but I'm leaving them that way for now.

      I usually get 115-120 down, 10-15 up from the Internet (depending on where and when) and LAN file transfers are pretty quick - it saturates the network cards in some of the older laptops around the house anyway.

      --
      Founder & COO, Hayai India (hayai.in) / USA (hayaibroadband.com) // t: @mgcarley
  4. No substitute for the real thing: cat5e or better. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The powerline adapters don't normally perform anywhere near their theoretical ratings, so they are likely to do not much better than 100mbit/sec. For consistent higher speed, ethernet cabling is usually the only real option.

  5. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by grilled-cheese · · Score: 1

    Good luck getting all your devices on a stable connection over 600mb. It is technically possible, but the topology and composition of your home coupled with the quality of your device adapters/antenna may prevent sufficient signal for those speeds. It's hard to beat CAT5e+ when it comes to Gb connectivity. You can get all the parts and tools you need to wire and terminate it all at your local big box hardware store (i.e. Lowes, Home Depot, etc).

  6. Man up by horm · · Score: 3, Informative

    Man up and wire the house. It's not that hard, CAT5e cable is cheap. And then you can install handy RJ45 jacks in the walls of each room.

    1. Re:Man up by nomel · · Score: 1

      And, once these multi rate gigabit get cheaper, cat5e should be good up to 5gig at 100m, 10G short run. :D

    2. Re:Man up by arth1 · · Score: 1

      For a house, I recommend Cat6 for all permanent lines, and 5e only for the leaf lines. Same speed, but Cat6 is more resilient in several ways, at the cost of cables being stiffer and more expensive. But over a few years, whether you pay $100 or $150 for the cabling doesn't matter much. That you won't have to re-cable or run diagnostics to find out where the problem is can be more of a concern.

    3. Re:Man up by BringsApples · · Score: 1

      For future needs, and since he's already in the attic doing the work, he "needs" CAT6 cable. Thinking of grudgingly climbing through the attic to install CAT5e cables makes me itch a little bit. Think of the future man! Hell, some here will probably say that for true gigabit connection, you need CAT6 anyway. I'm not sure how true this is, but it's what I'd go ahead and do.

      --
      Politics; n. : A religion whereby man is god.
    4. Re:Man up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Man up and wire the house. It's not that hard, CAT5e cable is cheap. And then you can install handy RJ45 jacks in the walls of each room.

      Hey Pussy. Stop half-assing with the Cat5 already. It's not like Cat6 is expensive.

      And if we were using fucking

      dial-up 20 years ago to access the internet, you should probably think a little ahead on a 30-year investment.

    5. Re:Man up by mysidia · · Score: 0

      There's no point. If you're going to spend extra money above Cat5E, then either do optical Fiber (expensive) or Cat6A.

      Cat6A will allow you to do 10-Gigabit eventually to 1000 meters. Cat6 can't go over 1000-megabits, so there's really no meaningful advantage of using Cat6 in a residential deployment

      I guess the Cat6 might last longer in theory. It's tougher to terminate, and you need special connectors.

    6. Re:Man up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Labor for installing cables is not cheap. Unless of course OP is okay with just stapling his cables to the wall (it sounds like he isn't).

    7. Re:Man up by TWX · · Score: 2

      A 1000' box of Cat6a is about $250. The max-length a drop can be is basically 300', and the average length in a house will probably be less than 100'. That means that $500 will provide 20 drops in a house. That is probably good for both right now and future expansion, but even if one needs more, it's a worthy purchase if one wants to future-proof for something this paradigm-shifting.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    8. Re:Man up by TWX · · Score: 1

      I wouldn't do fiber unless the house were a new-build, and even then I'd probably install all of the pathways and not actually pull the fiber until it's needed. Normally 6-strand fiber is the standard, which will use three positions on a normal single-gang faceplate when using LC connectors. If you were to put in fiber with the future in mind you'd probably want to go with OM4 multimode 50um, so that you could run 40G over short distance, and you'll spend a lot of money on patch cords and fiber transceivers, and you can probably do 40G over short distance Cat6a anyway.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    9. Re:Man up by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Thing is, the quantity discount for a larger quantity of cat6 cable will probably make it cheaper to buy a roll of cat6 than a partial roll each of 6 and 5e. For anything but the most excessive of McMansions a single roll should more than service a home.

      What you probably want is plenum/riser grade cable.

      Also, I'd spend the money to put jacks & a patch panel in.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    10. Re:Man up by TWX · · Score: 1

      Cat6 UTP isn't so much better than Cat5e UTP that I'd bother. If I were going to go better I'd go with Cat6a UTP or Cat6 S/FTP.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    11. Re:Man up by peragrin · · Score: 1

      It gets better , when you realize most rooms only need one jack or none at all.

      you will probably only need one box of cat6 and a dozen jacks. 2 per bedroom, 2 for living room, 2 to 4 for office. I get by with a 4 port router. with only 3 cables plugged in. one for the TV, one for the ROKU box(always hardwire these) and one in case I need to update settings or really play games.(always disable wireless administration)

      everything else is running on 802.11N (5ghz)of which I am the only user in the apartment complex. I pick up 10 other 2.4 ghz connections. Of those my 2.4 ghz channel(my router can broadcast and route on both at the same time) is the only one on an off channel(not 1,6, or 11) (I have mine set to 8 if you are curious)

      --
      i thought once I was found, but it was only a dream.
    12. Re:Man up by jedidiah · · Score: 1

      Because of the exact circumstances regarding the build of my house, I ended up using a structured cable bundle that includes fiber. Have no idea what I am ever going to do with it but I've got it.

      That 5 cable bundle was not significantly more expensive than running a single cat5 line.

      A wired GigE network is so much better than wireless.

      --
      A Pirate and a Puritan look the same on a balance sheet.
    13. Re:Man up by Harlequin80 · · Score: 1

      It gets better , when you realize most rooms only need one jack or none at all.

      I would argue false economy on this. Cable is cheap and labour is expensive (even if it is your own time) if you are pulling a single cable to a room, pull at least 2. You DO NOT want to do this job twice and while you are crawling around your roof cavity you may as well hit every room that is possible.

      2 per bedroom is probably enough. Main lounge I would argue at least 4. It is easy to fill those ports if you own consoles or media centres. Then there are the usages you didn't think of. I have a young child so I have a baby monitor, instead of buying a crap rf based one I got an old camcorder for free and take its video out and run it over cat 5 to my bedroom where it is plugged into a TV and a small PC speaker - instant HD baby monitor.

    14. Re:Man up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you're pulling one cable might as well more than one at the same time. Whether you hook the extras to a wall plate or not in each room, then you have an extra cable in which you could use to pull something else at a later date.

    15. Re:Man up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Cat6 can't go over 1gb? In what universe?

      That would be news to the people who wired the office I work in which has 10gig plugs next to most of the 1gig plugs. Into which I was once privileged to connect an annoyingly stiff cat6 cable, after clicking the other end to the $1000 fan-cooled NIC in my desktop, and demonstrate that "yes, I can copy an entire LiveDVD distro from ramdisk to ramdisk at a rate of 600 megabytes per second."

      If it's just a shorty 3-meter wall-to-NIC patch you can run 10gigE over cat5e even.

    16. Re:Man up by TWX · · Score: 2

      Pretty much. I deal with this for a living; it's about $150 for a drop, but less expensive by far when pulling multiples through the same pathway. Only major consideration are the size of the penetrations, Cat6a is already double-diameter from Cat5e/Cat6, so pulling six cables through a 2x4 top plate in a wall can be difficult when not wanting to take out too much material.

      As I said in another post, two per room, then at least two, maybe three to each entertainment center, one to the center of the ceiling on each floor in each building for WAPs, and more to wherever my office would be.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    17. Re:Man up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      6a will run 10G over short distances, if 10G is not in the plan (think 15 years), then 5e is all you need. anyone who says gig won't work over 5e is full of shit. also get 2 boxes, much easier to pull 2 at once.

    18. Re:Man up by DavidRawling · · Score: 2

      I did this when I finally bought a place 15m ago. I went what I considered was pretty "nuts" on the cabling. Cat6A everywhere - 2 in every room except bathrooms, kitchen, laundry and foyer, 6 per room for the entertainment areas. 2 APs at opposite ends of the house, and everything terminates in a 6U cabinet in the garage (26 points total). The sparkie who did the cabling said he's just finished another place with over 50 points, similar approach to mine. So what would I do differently? Most rooms are fine. I find I could use more in one of the entertainment areas, but some of those devices are both wired and wireless (and if push came to shove, I would simply move a device to WiFi). I wish I had thought to put a couple of points near where the solar inverter will be, so I could run a Galileo or similar for monitoring - it'll have to be WiFi. But this gives me at least 1Gb with POE almost everywhere, and I can go to 10Gb if it's ever a requirement.

    19. Re:Man up by mysidia · · Score: 1

      If it's just a shorty 3-meter wall-to-NIC patch you can run 10gigE over cat5e even.

      This is not in spec. Just because two devices will see each other and negotiate 10Gig speed does not mean it will actually work correctly, and out-of-spec config very well result in media errors receiving packets. 10GBASET to 100 meters requires Cat6A or Cat7 to be proper and in spec.

      To very short distances, Cat6 is in spec for 10GBaseT, but never Cat5E.

    20. Re:Man up by TWX · · Score: 1

      Correct. Even Cat5 in short runs will probably work at gig speeds. The biggest thing that hurts speed is the fluorescent ballast. Homes generally have few of those (though my late-seventies-trendy home is a glaring exception) so it's easier.

      When I do my house, Cat6a is the plan. Main stumbling block is locating the MDF, I've got a couple of possible nooks to use, but all will require some moderate construction. Nothing I can't do myself, but laziness and other demands on my time make me hesitate to start.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    21. Re:Man up by mysidia · · Score: 1

      That 5 cable bundle was not significantly more expensive than running a single cat5 line.

      Interesting.... although for a completely new build.. I would probably suggest installing conduit in order to facilitate future cable changes or replacements in order to address wiring that fails or needs to be repaired/scrapped/upgraded later. :)

    22. Re:Man up by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Cat6 can't go over 1000-megabits

      Citation? Per Wiki it says that cat6 can do 10Gb, just at a max of 55 meters. Cat6a can do 100M at that speed.

      Given that my house is ~60x30 feet, you could darn near run the entire perimeter and still be under 55 meters.

      Still, remember that typically speaking the largest cost for running wire is the labor; it's cheaper to run the 'good stuff' in the first place.

      One odd thought - running conduit might not be a bad idea. Higher expense up front, but if you ever need to upgrade, such as to fiber, it'll be much easier.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    23. Re:Man up by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      "Very Short" in this case is still 55 meters, which will more than cover 'most' houses, especially if you put the patch panel in a central location.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    24. Re:Man up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It depends on the house, of course, but I think some peoples' resistance isn't that they're worried about the cost of cables or jacks. It's solid walls, black-widow-infested crawlspaces, etc.

    25. Re:Man up by fuzzywig · · Score: 1
      Though the walls? Why bother? We just tacked ours round the walls (it's a rented house, so drilling holes was a no no). It looks pretty messy, but nobody ever seems to notice it.

      Sweet, sweet GB, all round the house. Of course, our internet connection is only 150MB, but it's handy for moving files around.

    26. Re:Man up by mu51c10rd · · Score: 1

      I ran shielded CAT5e outside underneath the vinyl siding. No drywall holes to patch, no fish tape to use, and very easy cable runs. Just poke through where you want the drop and use some sealant. If you look at the house, you can't even tell where the cable runs are.

    27. Re:Man up by datavirtue · · Score: 1

      Why did you skip the bathroom?

      --
      I object to power without constructive purpose. --Spock
    28. Re:Man up by chuckinator · · Score: 1

      You don't want to run cables that might cause you to trip and fall into the toilet.

    29. Re:Man up by drkim · · Score: 1

      It gets better , when you realize most rooms only need one jack or none at all.

      I would argue false economy on this. Cable is cheap and labour is expensive (even if it is your own time) if you are pulling a single cable to a room, pull at least 2.

      No need to pull two cables. Every time you run a line, tie in a double-long length of braided poly rope. If you ever need to run another cable in the future (who knows what it will be; fiber, CAT 9, 10?) attach it to the poly rope and pull it through.

      Because it's double-long, you can pull it back in to the 'starting position' when you're done and it will be ready for the next pull.

    30. Re:Man up by mysidia · · Score: 1

      says that cat6 can do 10Gb, just at a max of 55 meters.

      Cat 6 cable's maximum length is 55 meters (180 ft) in a favorable alien crosstalk environment, but only 37 meters (121 ft) in a hostile alien crosstalk environment ... t is highly recommended that all Cat 6 cables used for 10GBASE-T be electrically tested once installed

      With its improved specifications, Cat 6A does not have this limitation and can run 10GBASE-T at 100 meters (330 ft) without electronic testing.

      Given that my house is ~60x30 feet, you could darn near run the entire perimeter and still be under 55 meters.

      37 meters. In some single-story houses, you will be able to make it. But let's not forget, that there is rarely a straight path for each drop back to the utility entrance.

    31. Re:Man up by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      37 meters. In some single-story houses, you will be able to make it. But let's not forget, that there is rarely a straight path for each drop back to the utility entrance.

      You don't actually have to have all the drops go back to the entrance. I didn't mention it in this post(or I edited it out and don't remember doing it), but putting your switch in a central location can help drastically. Though I agree, 37 meters wouldn't be enough in many cases, the extra 18 meters I mentioned can make all the difference in the world for making that one run.

      But note that I recommended both running the best wire available and conduit to boot. Futureproofing is a thing.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
  7. maximum warp! by lericah · · Score: 1

    Well you could try something like this? http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-...

  8. your answer is no by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    You'll need cat 5e or cat 6 to achieve your dreams.

  9. I have two answers for you by sanpitch · · Score: 4, Interesting

    First, go plug your laptop in via ethernet in the awful location, and admire the glorious bandwidth.

    Second, use your powerline adapters and/or some 802.11ac routers to get internet in the rest of your house. I'm almost certain there is no real need for you to use the full gigabit connection, so for now just don't worry about it. Of course this is not the answer you want, but it's the practical solution.

    1. Re:I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      First, go plug your laptop in via ethernet in the awful location, and admire the glorious bandwidth.

      Second, use your powerline adapters and/or some 802.11ac routers to get internet in the rest of your house. I'm almost certain there is no real need for you to use the full gigabit connection, so for now just don't worry about it. Of course this is not the answer you want, but it's the practical solution.

      And of course for those claiming this is a ridiculous answer, let's toss the car analogy in here...

      How many of you have had your car at top speed?

      How many of you spent $20,000 or more on a car specifically to achieve that top speed?

      And of course, how many roads around you are ready for you to go screaming down at top speed?

      It's funny how we demand 100% performance from our internet when we certainly don't achieve that almost anywhere else in our world.

      Even your brain processing this very argument isn't, so ironically your counter-argument is already flawed.

    2. Re:I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigabit_Ethernet
      Hardwire - CAT 5 cable is not likely to work consistently, Cat 6 and Cat 7 cable is recommended, shorter is better, but 100m is possible.
      Fiber to your PC also works, but the fiber modem cards are pricey.

      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gi-Fi
      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gi-Fi
      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_Gigabit_Alliance
      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_Gigabit_Alliance
      http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/wi-fi-802.11ac-router,3386.html
      http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/wi-fi-802.11ac-router,3386.html

      These new WIFI devices are fast, but much slow than a cable connection.
      However unless you are trying to store point cloud images in the cloud it is unlikely you will tax a 802.11ac wifi link.

      Point cloud cameras and the related infrastructure are expensive, both in data size and $$
      leica-geosystems P20 $115,000.00.

    3. Re:I have two answers for you by russotto · · Score: 1

      How many of you have had your car at top speed?

      Me, my previous car anyway... my new car I haven't had a chance.

      How many of you spent $20,000 or more on a car specifically to achieve that top speed?

      No, but the car was just over $20,000

      And of course, how many roads around you are ready for you to go screaming down at top speed?

      Any interstate of which there were several. What are my taxes for, anyway?

    4. Re:I have two answers for you by jonwil · · Score: 1

      +1 to this, I bet you couldn't even get gigabit from you to even Google severs and kit, let alone the rest of the internet.

    5. Re:I have two answers for you by apraetor · · Score: 1

      Agreed. I'd also add: You don't need every drop to be the fastest that money can buy, just fast enough for the purpose. If the goal is to be able to max out the fiber from any single location in the house then you'll end up spending a lot of time and money; if you want each device to have at least as much bandwidth as required, but don't need to go beyond that, then you can use a mix of ethernet and wifi 802.11ac (or even 802.11n depending on needs).

    6. Re:I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How many of you have had your car at top speed?

      Actually, I've had mine up to roughly 80% of its top speed, and plan on taking it out to a track locally to find out just what it can do.

      How many of you spent $20,000 or more on a car specifically to achieve that top speed?

      I spent about $45k on mine actually, and one of the primary selling points was its performance capabilities. If I hadn't planned on enjoying its capabilities, I wouldn't have bothered to spend the money on it.

      And of course, how many roads around you are ready for you to go screaming down at top speed?

      Well, most open interstate works for short bursts which can take me to between 70-80% of my upper limit, though given the risk I usually prefer locations more suited to my purposes.

      It's funny how we demand 100% performance from our internet when we certainly don't achieve that almost anywhere else in our world.

      I believe I touched on this earlier, but if you don't intend on utilizing something, you shouldn't spend your money on it. The problem here is that society is filled with people who buy things they don't need instead of buying something that best matched their use case. If you all you do is play farmville and browse the web, then there's no good reason to purchase a $3k gaming computer.

    7. Re:I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I get 80Mb FTTC at home (7 years old). TP-Link 200Mb EoP adapters haven't had any problem giving me the full 80Mb. If your wiring is old or you have noisy devices plugged in (Cheap chargers are the worst), you might suffer.
       
      Either way, that's 29GB per hour I can download. Tell me you really need more than that.

  10. Based on infrastructure experience... by TWX · · Score: 4, Informative

    ...first define where your telecom enclosure or closet will be. Then consider how you want to connect your devices; copper Ethernet, wireless, etc. Then you need to investigate pathways for adding horizontal cables ("drops") to those areas, and you need to look into the equipment side (separate firewall, managed switch, etc) and how you want to define the usage policies.

    In my case, if I were in your shoes, I'd install a telecom closet where the old flue for the now-gone basement wood-burning-stove pipes through the ground floor. I'd run two copper Cat6a drops to most rooms, and I'd cable to the entertainment centers at least two, possibly three. To my office I'd pull six. I'd put at least one to ceiling locations in the basement, the ground floor, and the detached workshop, probably digging a trench for a 2" conduit, transition from general-purpose indoor cable to OSP cable when I go outside and back in. I might also put in lightning arrestors that are PoE capable to protect the switch from the WAP or cable being struck; wouldn't worry about protecting the WAP, it'll die if struck regardless.

    I'd probably look at a Cisco 3560G 8port PoE switch, it technically has ten ports, eight PoE capable, two not (that can accept fiber SFP transceivers) and there should be at least some L3 capability. Then get a vlan-trunk-capable L3 router/firewall device, put the WAPs on a separate VLAN (and go with VLAN-capable WAPs, for trusted/owned and untrusted/visitor devices) and build rules for the various VLANs, ie trusted can get to LAN devices, untrusted can't.

    --
    Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    1. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by horm · · Score: 1

      Best response.

    2. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Cat6a has a minimum bend radius which can make it difficult to install, and can be easily damaged by overzealous zip ties. I'd pull just Cat6 now with as much conduit as possible and additional pullstrings in case 6a becomes a real need in the future. 6 will run 10Gig up to 55 meters, and you only need the extra expense of 6a if you're going to do 10G to 100 meters.

    3. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by TWX · · Score: 2

      If you're using zip-ties in cabling then you're behind the times. We use velcro. They actually sell plenum-rated velcro.

      The bend-radius of Cat6a might be worse than 6 or 5e, but it's not so bad as to be a problem if you're smart about your penetrations. Besides, if your bend radii are so tight that you can't use 6a, those pullstrings are going to be useless down the road as they won't manage to let cables pass.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    4. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by maeltor · · Score: 2

      I agree on EVERYTHING you said, except your choice of infrastructure devices. Go w/ a Cisco Meraki switch. Can get the POE versions for cheap, cloud managed, no need to learn a lot of CLI (i'm a network engineer by trade so i wouldn't choose this but for a layman its great). Expand to a Meraki MX60 for a security gateway and a few MR16 or MR24 APs and you can have the whole place done up right for about $1500.00 If you don't want Meraki, you can use Aerohive, Ubuquiti (shudder), or Cradlepoint AER2100s for awesome route and AP functionality. Bottom line is, lots of choices.

    5. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by TWX · · Score: 1

      True, there are other solutions beyond Catalyst; they're what I'm used to dealing with these days.

      I wouldn't even mind some of the older full-gig switches; the 2960S can be had used for a decent price sometimes.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    6. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by maeltor · · Score: 1

      Yep, no argument there Based on the fact that the OP mentioned he wanted to use PL networking (seriously!???!?) and not wire things up, I surmised that he wasn't a full time networking ninja (or even part time for that matter). Thus, i suggested a good balance of functionality and price. I'm aware that new Cisco's have WebUIs but the Meraki's take it a step beyond for the SOHO market. I've deployed them flawlessly in some of the small shops I support on the side and I love being able to login from home and resolve issues that in the past would have required a rollout to the site. My vendor of choice is Juniper Networks but im not gonna recommend that type of advanced functionality (and price) for a use case such as this ;-)

    7. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      If you're going with Cisco ( or any enterprise class gear for that matter ) make sure you can either deal with fan noise or remove the fans, cut a hole in the chassis and install a much larger ( and quieter ) fan instead. While the lovely sounds of Cisco cooling fans sound fine in a data center, they do NOT sound fine in your closet.

      However, based on the OP, it's unlikely they want to go through this type of setup ( even though they really should to do gigabit eth any justice ).
      Do it right the first time. ( The old saying " Buy once, cry once " works here ) PLAN IT OUT FIRST.

      You can get both a Cisco router and a switch ( used and not current gen of course ) capable of gb speeds for under $500 total. ( 2821 / 2851 router and a 2970 or 3500 series switch ) Though if your IOS-Fu isn't up to the task, you'll need to find someone whose is to configure it for you. Food and / or beer works pretty well for most network types as payment :D

      While extremely powerful, the Cisco command line is not user friendly for those who don't play in it every day.

      +1 on the Vlan recommendations. Unless you need them to talk to one another, isolate what you can. have Wireless ( tablets and phones ) in one Vlan, Wired devices in another, the alarm system all by itself, etc. etc. ACL's keep the dual network capable units ( phones and alarm ) from talking to anything else on my network outside of their own subnet. ( hahaha no I don't trust them, ever throw a packet sniffer at an Iphone when it boots up ( non-jailbroken for those who care ) ? It talks to an awful lot of addresses . . . . . )

      Would probably drop two eth lines into each bedroom / office / main room at a minimum. If you run the cables yourself, mind what you run them next to ( power lines or florescent lights ) and don't get sloppy on the crimping. It gets really picky about it once you start to ramp up the speeds.

      To be honest, I would only use Wireless for the tablets and phones. Everything else would be hardwired.

    8. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      if you're smart about your penetrations

      Good advice for life, but I don't see how it relates to installing Cat6a ethernet wiring.

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    9. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      While personally I'd love to put in that compact 3560G, it's far too expensive for a domestic environment.

      A switch with good enough features (icluding vlans, PoE etc), from a reasonably reputable manufacturer, can be had for less than 10% of the cost of that switch.

      It probably costs more than it would cost to get a tradesman to do the entire structured cable installation.

    10. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by TWX · · Score: 1

      To paraphrase Yoda, "And that... is why you fail."

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    11. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by TWX · · Score: 1

      The little "eight port" switches are fanless and quiet. I've got two of 'em sitting on my desk right now; the laptop is louder.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    12. Re:Based on infrastructure experience... by TWX · · Score: 1

      Estimate at $150/cable to pay for installation.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
  11. SSDs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    SSDs (or RAID) for all of your computers; even if you can download at 1Gbit/s, your harddisk will probably not be able to keep up

    1. Re:SSDs by unixisc · · Score: 1

      In which case, he should probably go w/ PCIe SSDs, as opposed to SATA ones

    2. Re:SSDs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      A single modern 7.2k HD can sustain 100MB/s *linear* no problem.
      It's the random r/w caused by torrent downloads, assembling usenet articles and the like that kills disk throughput and really, really wants to be on a SSD.
      And even a "old" 128GB Samsung 830 is plenty fast enough for that ;)

  12. Pull your own by PeeAitchPee · · Score: 1

    No reason not to have Gigabit Ethernet in the walls. A 1000 foot spool of CAT 5E is under $90 at Home Depot and a decent quality set of terminating tools is under $60. Gigabit switches are cheap now too. You'll also need something to use to fish the wires thru the walls. Make sure you know how to terminate your cables correctly or you'll slow things down due to errors (or they just won't work at all). You can buy pre-terminated cables but they're more expensive (but might be good if you're in a hurry).

    1. Re:Pull your own by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

      I tend to agree with your statement. It is hard for me to describe just how bad of a location the fiber jack is in - it is in a place where it is impossible for me to fish from. I have considered wiring up a switch in another location, but I'm not sure how exactly I would get the wires fished where I need them to go.

      For what it is worth, I am also considering having Google move the fiber jack if they will let me pay them to do it.

    2. Re:Pull your own by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Depends. My walls are concrete, so it is a real bitch to draw CAT 5E through it.

    3. Re:Pull your own by SuiteSisterMary · · Score: 1

      Run a fiber from the jack to your distribution point. Straight down the wall, along/under baseboards, whatever, you can make it invisible if need be. This isn't rocket science.

      --
      Vintage computer games and RPG books available. Email me if you're interested.
    4. Re:Pull your own by TWX · · Score: 1

      Solid, or slump-block? I've fished high-voltage through slump-block before. It's not exactly fun, but it's not impossible either.

      Most residential has a 2x2 fur-strip attached to the concrete wall, with sheetrock attached to that. One can fish the cable in that space.

      And there's always raceway from companies like Panduit if one can't fish...

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
  13. No. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    No. As you stated, there is no way to achieve high reliability connections without significant wiring changes. But I wouldn't complain too much about only having 600Mbps to the router, as the throughput may often be less than 1Gbps.
    802.11ac is rated for gigabit speeds, but you stated that technical limitations don't allow you to utilize that.

  14. No subsitute for hardwired Ethernet by SIGBUS · · Score: 4, Informative

    I've tried both wireless client bridges (300Mbps N) and powerline Ethernet adapters for an HDHomerun tuner, and my results were: a) only one tuner could stream over the wireless and b) the powerline adapters were an epic fail. The punch line is that the HDHomerun works fine and dandy over 100BaseT. Between the crowded 2.4 GHz spectrum and the poor penetration of 5 GHz, wireless just doesn't cut it for anything that needs throughput.

    String some Cat5e or Cat6, and leave the wireless for laptops and tablets.

    Cat5e will work fine for gigabit. Cat6 will support 10G, but 10G costs a fortune.

    --
    Oh, no! You have walked into the slavering fangs of a lurking grue!
    1. Re:No subsitute for hardwired Ethernet by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      We (I) installed a few 802.11ac access points in our campus this summer. I unboxed a brand new MacBook Pro with a retina screen. No, my boss did NOT let me keep it!!!

      Took it to the area where I'd just installed the fast AP. Ran an AT&T bandwidth test on our (very, very new) gigabit Internet connection. The results, I swear:

      175 Mbits down
      70 Mbits up

      I still tremble as I write these comments. Oh, while I DON'T have a company-supplied MBP as yet, I'm within 15' of another AC access point that I just happened to install in close proximity. Life is sometimes good if you're in IT, rarely, even better.

  15. Stupid question, smartass answers. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If you want to fully utilize the fiber that Google is providing, you'll need to have an in-house infrastructure that can keep up. Wireless will be catching up to gigabit speeds sooner rather than later, but it may be more economical in the short and medium terms to do a small rewiring project to connect a few key spots in the building (even if it's just drilling a few holes for now and doing a better installation and patch later). At current speeds, even running a single Cat6 line from the demarcation point to a central closet or main server location would allow you to take advantage of the full speeds for a few machines (and free up additional wireless bandwidth for the remaining devices).

  16. NO by CAPSLOCK2000 · · Score: 1

    The simple simple answer to your question is "no, that's not yet possible".

    Do yourself a favor and run a wire. There is really no substitute. Even if some wireless solutions claim speeds over 1 gbit you are not very likely to actually reach that speed consistently.

  17. Answer: You can't. Even wired by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2

    I have Google fiber. I wired my house with Cat5E, and I have a nice Extreme Networks gigabit switch tying it all together.

    You will never put a DENT in Google Fiber. I've only found two speed test servers that can even come close, and one of them is hosted by Google right on the Fiber plant.

    The KC Startup Village (http://www.kcstartupvillage.org/) got some early hype because they leased a home with Fiber and loan out the rooms to various hackers. Even they can't do more than momentarily scratch the surface of a gigabit connection. When they do, it's only by performing ridiculous stunts like playing 63 YouTube videos at once.

    That said, it's still a great service. The upload alone is worth it vs the other cable and DSL choices. The TV service is pretty good too. Wire out your house if you're willing and able, but don't obsess over "fully utilizing" the connection. Many businesses can't even come close to saturating a gigabit internet link.

    The rest of the internet just isn't fast enough yet. There are no apps or services that exist or will exist in the next several years that could fully utilize this. Even Google has said they didn't build this network for today. They built it for 10 years from now.

  18. CAT5e and CAT6 cables required by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I, for one, have no problem stringing cables around the bottom corners of rooms, or stapled to ceiling tiles, or whatever. At this point you are best off hiring an electrician to run in-wall wires for you (probably a $200-400 job).

  19. Run a cable to where you want it by Dynedain · · Score: 1

    Order cable, or satellite TV.

    Watch how the installers run lines around the outside of your domicile and then punch a hole through the wall to get into the specific room.

    Do the same thing yourself with ethernet (use the right rating of cable, and add conduit if necessary).

    ** Bonus points: Do your research and check out a neighbor or friend's place instead of ordering services.

    --
    I'm out of my mind right now, but feel free to leave a message.....
    1. Re:Run a cable to where you want it by Bangback · · Score: 1

      There's a real art. Used to be, if you ordered a triple play from the cable company, they'd send out a top guy since they were the only ones qualified for all 3. Some of those guys really went above and beyond for a pro installation.

      Go either to the attic, basement, or crawlspace. Run from there to the closest point. Hug the walls even if its the long way, cable is cheap. Then do a short outdoor hop if necessary.

      If you've got some money, go ahead and hire a pro. For $200-300 you'll be done. Or cut the walls and repaint. Your wife will like a custom color anyway.

      If you're patient, chop the cable, blame it on the previous resident, other construction, etc., and pay the service fee for the reinstallation at a better location. I ripped out both a cable company box and all the phone wire as an eyesore and left the wires dangling from the pole. (We have two cable companies in town).

    2. Re:Run a cable to where you want it by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

      Moving the jack could be an option. The reason it is in such a bad location is they put it in the cutout above the fireplace, where a TV is supposed to go (if I were to build the house, I'd tell them not to have a cutout for a TV, because who wants a TV over the fireplace?) Getting inside wires up to where the router is not going to be an easy task.

      The home is wired with Cat 5E for landlines. I have considered cutting those and trying to wire them to a switch, but am not confident this is the best quality stuff. Hiring an electrician might also be an option to distribute Cat 6. It would future-proof the house, at least.

  20. Realistic Expectations by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Blazing speeds do not equal Blazing Speeds.

    Here is what I mean by that. Having a Gigabit or even just a 100Mbps connection is wonderful if you have that capacity in both directions.
    But what you will actually be able to establish on your connections will be limited by the far end, aka, the website and or service you are connecting to.

    Having a larger the larger pipe will allow you to have more people and devices be able to do what they need to do without fighting over your internet bandwidth. Sure having the 600Mbps internally will get you close but you won't really be able to maximize it's use even if it was just 100Mbps instead of 1Gbps for your internal network. But how many devices will be running off of the wireline? 2? 3? any VoIP Phones on that?

    A lot of Good Internal LAN setups will purposely limit the end users to just 100Mbps. Assuming you have a Gigabit switch somewhere in your home and you have for example 10 devices connected to this switch and this switch is configured for 100Mbps on each port (except for the port going to your router that should be 1Gbps) you will be assured you should be able to get that speed per device which is in of it's self AMAZINGLY FAST. Be Careful though and leave some overhead for servers or streaming media devices, such as a slingbox or even a homerun HD box(these are amazing I really want to get one.)

    You are going to want to invest in some top notch Networking gear. Period. You don't want to have to go and be rebooting things every couple of days, it will be a drain on your sanity and anybody in your home using your internet.

    My Cisco router and 48port Cisco switch ended up running me about $300 Obviously I don't need all of the ports, but I was lucky and got the switch for $50. Had to go to a reputable Cisco Reseller to get the router for about $250 (not including a proper IOS upgrade which will cost you a bit more and some research on your part.).

    Got any friends in the IT or Telecom industry? I'd look to them for some further assistance. You could possibly get a hold of a IT consulting firm locally to help you plan your internal network to make the most out of your setup, they may have some pretty fair prices for simple setups.

    But by no means don't expect to always get 100% of your bandwidth per user, that isn't how this stuff works.

    1. Re:Realistic Expectations by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the input. I'm a former networking guy, still working in development/IT related business. I posted the question to generate some discussion about alternatives or innovations that I may not be aware of. Slashdot is the best resource for expert discussion, and I can appreciate a little shit talk from the crowd while that discussion happens.

      I am mainly curious, if I did have a need to use the full gig pipe (which I don't in the immediate future) how I could achieve it. It is more of a curiosity than a necessity. I plan to tinker with it quite a bit to see what I can get it to do. Obviously, there is no practical use for a gig symmetrical right now, but the fact that I have it gives me an opportunity to experiment a bit.

  21. Bandwidth Requirements by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Most applications use significantly less than 1Gb/s. Even if you had five family members streaming Netflix on different computers at the same time in Ultra HD, you would only use 125Mb/s.

    https://help.netflix.com/en/node/306

    Throw in a security system and add another 10 computers playing online games and you still won't break 200Mb/s.

    Wireless is local - over the LAN. This does not directly count toward your total.

    You're thinking about this the wrong way. Just because you have the bandwidth does not mean that it all needs to be used up. It just means that bandwidth will no longer be a limiting factor for you.

    Congratulations - I'm jealous!

    1. Re:Bandwidth Requirements by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the input.

      You are correct about utilization - it isn't practical right now to use the full connection. It is mainly a curiosity - if I wanted to use the full connection, are there any innovations or alternatives available which I hadn't thought of?

      I'll be sure to report back once we're in and everything is set up. It should be a great opportunity to experiment.

  22. Check your phone wiring by ByTor-2112 · · Score: 1

    Houses built in the last 5 years or so usually have cat5 wiring to the phone jacks. And they are probably pulled to a convenient location for a switch. My last home was like that and I rewired the phone for gigabit, got a switch that supported PoE and installed HP intellijack switches on the walls where I needed multiple ports. Worked great. The new owners should be thanking me!

    1. Re:Check your phone wiring by jedidiah · · Score: 1

      I've seen what normal electrical subs do with cat5. It's not pretty. It's downright scary. It's the stuff of nightmares. Assuming that you can just use cat5 used for phone runs may not necessarily work out for you.

      This is why I had my house wired with structured cabling. That kind of dense cable bundle can't quite be abused as readily as a single strand of cat5.

      --
      A Pirate and a Puritan look the same on a balance sheet.
    2. Re:Check your phone wiring by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

      You are on the right track - except for expecting them to terminate the phone Cat 5E in a convenient place. I have thought of using this, but the way they terminated the cables (to the best of my knowledge) will not make this feasible. I do intend to do a little more digging to see if this would be practical or not (or, if I could use the phone lines to fish Cat 6 and re-do it.

    3. Re:Check your phone wiring by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      I've seen what normal electrical subs do with cat5. It's not pretty. It's downright scary. It's the stuff of nightmares. Assuming that you can just use cat5 used for phone runs may not necessarily work out for you.

      This is why I had my house wired with structured cabling. That kind of dense cable bundle can't quite be abused as readily as a single strand of cat5.

      I'm not sure I would trust a normal sparky to do networking stuff... Friend of mine just got an office rewired - sparky was told to put in a phone socket and 2 ethernet sockets per desk. Cat6 was specified throughout, but it sounds like the bosses (who were telling the sparky what to do) never actually gave him that specification. Ended up with cat3 for the phones and cat6 for ethernet.

      Even given that the sparky seemingly hadn't been explicitly told to use cat6 for the phones, who the hell cables up a modern office in cat3 these days?! Half the Ethernet sockets were punched down with the pairs in the wrong order, and next to no slack cable was left at the patch panel end (which meant they all had to be extended through a punch block).

      Some of the blame can certainly be placed on my friend for not staying on top of exactly what the sparky was doing, but at the end of the day the sparky obviously had no clue. Nope, get a real network cable installer to do this stuff!

  23. you need some wireless backhaul by mveloso · · Score: 1

    What you need to do is get one of these wireless backhaul things and put one at one end of your house, and one on the other.

    http://www.microwave-eetimes.c...

    Then you've got a 4Gbps backhaul from your fiber point to the rest of your house. Stock up on a bunch of those, and you should be able to exercise your fiber like crazy.

    As a bonus, you can cook your dinner by just putting your food in the beam pathway.

  24. Wired or bust! by dagamer34 · · Score: 1

    You have yet to move into your house. Stop making excuses and run Ethernet. Even if it isn't an in-wall installation (though I absolutely highly recommend it, it *will* add value to your house), since you have no furniture to move, run cords along baseboards and do it the right way so any future home owners won't think you did a crappy job. Man/woman up and get it done.

  25. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Hopefully you have a newer house. Older houses you're lucky to get 1-2mb/s using powerline technology. You won't be happy.

    Running cables is a pain in the ass but the only way. The other option is put a machine near the jack and remote in -- there's very little I need to do interactively at beyond wireless speeds.

  26. the edge providers don't support those speeds by alen · · Score: 1

    it sounds nice but in the real world netflix won't break 10mbps on google fiber. their CDN boxes will have 100gbps connections for tens of thousands of users to share.
    and every other edge provider can't support all their users at 1gbps. either they don't pay for enough bandwidth on their end or they don't have enough capacity to support all their users at speeds like that.

    i've had dropbox uploads go 1mbps on a 50mbps connection for this very reason

    save your money. the internet is more than just your ISP. only place you see those speeds are on the speedtest sites which are scams anyway

  27. Do not call me to help you by Bork · · Score: 1

    I hope you do not call me for tech support, I work it and I do not like these type of call.
    "YOUR device "X" does not see my wireless network but everythings else works, you have a shit product and you have to help me fix it."

    You want the easy fix and sometimes its not there. ...
    I was going to write some technical stuff on a pro/cons basis but then I said that its not worth the time to write it out.
    You already know what the solution is, get over it and just do it.

    Sorry (not really), I do networking support for making our device work on your crappy networks.

  28. If you don't like where the connector box is.... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Call Google Fiber and tell them what you just asked here. They will schedule an appointment and move the box where you want it. They will wire the house for you or give you the information you need to DIY. Ask to talk to a tech, the sales reps have no clue. If you are too lazy to call you can log in to the forum and ask what others who think the gigabit connection is barely usable are doing to wire their homes. If the Google network box WiFi is slow for you it is your equipment not the network box that has an issue.

  29. Have the G-Connection moved by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    to a more convenient location. Sure, you will have to employ a technician but the relatively modest cost (time and money) will end up being cheaper than all your shenanigans and half-baked ideas.

  30. My Setup by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I recently invested in wiring up my house with ethernet. Using an old wardrobe for hardware storage (16 port gigabit switch - no PoE, modem, wifi, server), I have 3 rooms connected with Cat6. I didn't have a reason to have ethernet to all the rooms but if it changes, I have the other infrastructure to support it.

    I have all of this with a terrible ~4.5mbps ADSL2 connection. I do partially regret not having PoE but I can get a second switch specifically for that if my needs arise.

    The entire setup wasn't terribly cheap though being in Australia, prices aren't always great (plus I could have saved money doing the wiring myself).

  31. depends by roc97007 · · Score: 1

    Depends on how many people are living there and what they're doing. The way to think of it is that the 1 GB connection is a great big ol' pipe that'll never be a choke point, no matter how many people are streaming Netflix or torrenting Fedora 20.

    That said, my main workstation goes to a 1 GB switch attached to Cat 6 I had punched through the upstairs into the attic, threaded down the folding ladder frame, tacked across the garage ceiling to where the fiber modem is located in the far corner of the garage. So I have a direct full speed connection should I ever need it for anything. But for wifi, it's the cumulative throughput that's important.

    --
    Oliver's law of assumed responsibility: If you're seen fixing it, you will be blamed for breaking it.
    1. Re:depends by Virtucon · · Score: 1

      Wait this is to the home, 1Gbps is a big pipe! You can stream multiple Netflix 1080p movies (approx 7Mbps/sec) and quite a bit of web browsing all at the same time.

      --
      Harrison's Postulate - "For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism"
    2. Re:depends by roc97007 · · Score: 1

      Yeah, that's true, but one assumes there will be uses eventually for which such an infrastructure will be appropriate. The next level is probably 4K media.

      --
      Oliver's law of assumed responsibility: If you're seen fixing it, you will be blamed for breaking it.
    3. Re:depends by Virtucon · · Score: 1

      Netflix has already been pushing 4K as an upcoming feature. They're publishing streaming rates of 16Mbps which isn't bad, even 3D Hidef is around 12Mbps still a lot of bandwidth left in that 1Gbps pipe. I'd be more worried about upstream problems, Layer 3, VZ etc. constraining it before it gets on to Google's network.

      --
      Harrison's Postulate - "For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism"
    4. Re:depends by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      They you hit data caps. I don't' know if it's a factor with Google fiber but it sure is with Cox. A solid weekend of Netflix on best quality will push me over my data cap on Cox.

  32. In a word, no.... by King_TJ · · Score: 1

    Almost all of the wireless technologies quote transfer rates which are VERY optimistic (as in; "We achieved this maximum speed in a lab, in completely controlled conditions which will be nothing like you'll ever have where you intend to use it!"). Same with the power over ethernet adapters out there. (You'll find quite a few of them that only provide 10/100 ethernet ports despite claims of doing 500mbit speeds. Why? Because they know in real world usage, you'll never get close enough to saturate the 100mbit port's top speed anyway. The underlying technology may have a 500mbit top theoretical speed, but it's irrelevant in regular usage.)

    On the other hand? I would recommend you consider calling local contractors who do structured cabling and get bids for wiring up your place. I understand that the whole "Do it yourself!" thing isn't always really feasible (or worth your time and effort). It can be a real trick fishing cable through some of the walls you want to run them through, etc. But you might be surprised at what you can have professionally done at a price that's really not so terrible? Remember, you are essentially putting this cabling in your home permanently (plates going on walls and the whole bit). Your home was a big investment. Isn't it worth a little fraction of its price to cable it properly and cleanly?

    (At my old house, all I really wanted was a gigabit connection between a jack in the basement and one on the second floor, on the opposite side of the house. I found a handyman who also did a lot of electrical work, plus had some proficiency in I.T. who got it done for me for a total of only $75 or so. He ran the line across my roof, slipping it under the shingles somehow.) I had an entire office wired up with CAT6 cable (2 jacks in each outlet of each office), that went back to a labeled patch panel in a closet, mounted to a 2 post rack secured to the floor. Including testing and verification of all connections - I think the total cost on that was around $4,500. So you have to really figure out where you want cable run and how many jacks, plus where everything should terminate. The price will vary wildly depending on how much labor and cabling all of that requires.

    1. Re:In a word, no.... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Also don't forget that unlike switched ethernet, 802.11b/g/a/n/ac and powerline are utilizing a *shared* *half-duplex* medium.
      Meanwhile, even a $19 8-port GbE switch has no problem with 4 pairs of clients doing bidirectional line rate.

  33. Looooong Cable by Zmobie · · Score: 1

    Depending on how ridiculous you feel like getting you could just run a really long Cat6 cable... I mean, as a temporary solution until I finish wiring my house I have that right now (I absolutely hate it, but its motivation to finish the new network faster I guess?).

    1. Re:Looooong Cable by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My temp cables behind the furniture and under the rugs while I got the wiring finished have been in for 6 years. The wall plates got terminated 5 years ago. the rack point is still empty (but got its power a 18 months ago).

  34. Just run the cable. Jebus. by enjar · · Score: 1

    The equipment and supplies required to fish cable through attics, walls, ceilings, basements and even running it around the house isn't expensive, novel or hard to use. It's more time consuming and frustrating than anything else. It's fall so temperatures in the attic aren't bad, and it's not freezing cold outside. Call a buddy/spouse/family member and get it done.

  35. Lovejoy by jtownatpunk.net · · Score: 1

    Short answer: No with a "but".
    Long answer: Yes with an "if".

    Real advice: Just wire it. If you've got a basement or crawlspace come up from below. If you've got an attic, come down from above. Or hire someone to do it. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. You're spending six figures on a home (I assume) and balking at three figures of improvements. How much are you thinking of spending on wireless and powerline stuff knowing it's a half-assed patch that won't maximize performance? Do the job right, do it once, and be happy.

  36. Pointless question by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    First find 100+ websites and download from them all simultaneously... oh wait... That's as dumb as the question itself. You're clearly a home user so you have no practical way to download that much content in the first place.

  37. Constantly amazed by roninmagus · · Score: 1

    Constantly amazed at this pursuit. Maybe I'm old school or something (LOL, just turned 30.) My life is my computers, my work and my hobbies, but I have a 50mb/s connection, and a family which consumes multiple netflix/hulu/youtube streams for the entire 4 hours that we're at home in the evening and not asleep. It all works fine for us. Not saying it would for others, and I'm all about the technical aspects of it, but come on. What in the world are you trying to do? The only possible use case I could see for this is piracy.

    1. Re:Constantly amazed by iggymanz · · Score: 1

      Nonsense, legally downloading four disk set of DVD for a Linux distro (while your family gets no movies) would take an hour. We like instant gratification in this country, get with the program

    2. Re:Constantly amazed by jtownatpunk.net · · Score: 2

      I'm sure glad the world doesn't rely on your imagination.

      Maybe I just bought NBA 2K15 on my PS4 and I don't want to wait until next Tuesday for the 46 gigabyte download to finish and I want to be able to stream an HD movie from Netflix at full quality while that's happening. And Steam's downloading 10 gigs of game updates on my computer while working on 12 gigs on the kid's computer. And my kid's streaming some educational video. And the wife is taking an online course in underwater basket weaving and she's in a video conference with the rest of the class.

      Just because you have a limited imagination doesn't mean anyone who could make good use of a gigabit connection is a pirate.

    3. Re:Constantly amazed by retchdog · · Score: 1

      And if our Slashdot-Asker had actually stated a use, we might be able to advise him better. As it is, we're all just guessing.

      Myself, I'd even want Google Fiber just for the latency and reliability; throughput would be a far lesser consideration. I'd also have some idea of what I actually wanted to do with it, and would either know how to achieve that or, at least, have the decency to ask a specific question.

      I doubt the Asker is even going to be pirating. I doubt he'll do much of anything really, which is perfectly fine, especially for Google shareholders.

      --
      "They were pure niggers." – Noam Chomsky
  38. Fuck you! :( by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm stuck on this crappy white connection, but I was that BBConnection. :( Oh well at least it's not yellow dial-up.

  39. Speed limits... by The+New+Guy+2.0 · · Score: 0

    First, even if you've got a gigabit around town, you don't really have an ability to fill it. If you were going to use that whole thing, you have no way of viewing anything that fast. It's multiple movies in a matter of seconds.

    Second, you can only go as fast as the server on the other side is willing to send to you. If they've got a gigabit on their side, you'll fill their pipe too, disabling the site to other people.

    In other words, a step down to 600MHz because that's you're local speed is good enough for most uses. Only a datacenter needs to go that fast.

    1. Re:Speed limits... by jedidiah · · Score: 2

      I can already fill a gigabit connection pushing stuff around the house. Having a local gigabit ISP would just allow me to expand this to friends and family.

      A cloud backup without the cloud would be a good start.

      --
      A Pirate and a Puritan look the same on a balance sheet.
  40. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Jeremiah+Cornelius · · Score: 1

    Connect your TOR forwarder and Torrent node directly to the GBIC.

    --
    "Flyin' in just a sweet place,
    Never been known to fail..."
  41. Combine the 2 by unixisc · · Score: 1

    Just put ethernet everywhere, it's not that much work. I asume the house you're moving into will be empty anyway.

    He asked, "Is there a better way to achieve a truly gigabit internal connection without substantial structural or wiring modifications?" So the optimal solution here seems to be to put ethernet wherever it's feasible without altering the wiring, and go wireless for other places. Maybe have a few APs in the hard to reach places

    1. Re:Combine the 2 by SuiteSisterMary · · Score: 5, Insightful

      He asked, "Is there a better way to achieve a truly gigabit internal connection without substantial structural or wiring modifications?"

      And the answer is an unqualified 'no.'

      --
      Vintage computer games and RPG books available. Email me if you're interested.
    2. Re:Combine the 2 by amxcoder · · Score: 2

      I would wire up the house in places it's feasible. Trunk smaller subsystems with GBit switches back to the main entry point if needed to prevent having to run home-runs everywhere, but home runs would be best if possible.

      I think you'll need to look for a decent main router/firewall pretty hard, I'm not sure about some of the newer home based ones, but I've heard many consumer routers, even ones rated for GBit internally, won't do GBit on the WAN port to the ISP. So you're going to want to make sure you spec in something that actually supports GBit on the WAN side hitting the fiber point. I wouldn't skimp this part if I wanted to fully utilize the network.

      For areas that are to impractical to hit with physical wire, I would use WAP's for. You would probably want to use multiple WAP's so you don't get saturation on one particular wap, and the load is distributed out better, making for faster connections on the devices connecting wireless (less sharing of bandwidth). Also, make sure you get good WAP's that can do B/G/N seperately without degrading. Some cheaper versions will only go as high as the lowest device connected to them (something I didn't realize for quite some time). These basically can do N speed if everything is connected with N, but once 1 device connects that only supports B/G, then all the connections get knocked down to B/G. I think this is due to only having 1 radio in the AP rather than a separate radio for each speed protocol.

      Just remember, while your wireing the house, it may be a pain in the butt, but just keep repeating the mantra that 'it will be over soon', and 'if you do it right the first time, you only have to do it once'. That helps me on big projects where cutting corners starts looking like a good idea just to get the project done. LOL.

    3. Re:Combine the 2 by ArmoredDragon · · Score: 5, Informative

      I'm going to give a qualified 'no' to this one. I'm a network engineer, this IS my business. The reality is that powerline and wifi both suck balls if you really are *that* excited to have gigabit and you want your whole house to take advantage of it. I've actually heard from hardware engineers that design embedded devices who say that they can't get wifi to work reliably past about 10 meters, and I very much believe them.

      Between neighbors doing stupid things (e.g. having the bright idea of making their AP sit on channel 2 when everybody else is on channel 1, not realizing that doing this effectively has them jam your AP and you jam theirs in all areas that they overlap) and the overall noisiness of unlicensed bands in general, wifi sucks for a lot of things. I personally refuse to use it for anything except smartphones and tablets.

      Powerline adapters are lame most of the time as well because they work under the assumption that your internal wiring isn't very noisy, which is a very bad assumption to make because the controls for limiting radio interference from certain devices to the power grid aren't very good in many cases, and since you're typically on the same grid as your neighbors, there's fuck all you can do about it. I was lazy when I moved once and I tried a powerline adapter...boy was that a stupid idea. Not only are those things overpriced, but even the best ones don't work for shit in my house. It was rated for 200mbit, and I think in my case it got 2mbit. Worthless.

      That said, just wiring ethernet is the best thing you can do. And there's two ways you can do it:

      1) Yourself
      2) Hire somebody.

      There are probably plenty of people you can hire to do it. I personally would wire a five bedroom house for the $150 range plus the cost of materials (usually not much more than $50 for the cabling, ends, jacks, and faceplates, in addition to any switches needed, which my favorite is the Trendnet TEG-S80G, which runs about $30-$40 and is a VERY good 8-port gigabit switch for the price, even has a lot of features and runs so energy efficient that its METAL housing is cool to the touch.) The reason my materials costs are cheaper is because I already have all of the materials, so I only use what I need rather than having to buy in larger quantities than YOU need. Again, somebody you hire is probably in the same boat.

      I also do it with all internal wiring so there's no need to run conduit and/or get outdoor grade wiring, and cosmetically it just looks better. Some people balk about going through attics though and will only do external wiring. If the person you're going to hire either doesn't want to do that or demands extra for it, find somebody else (Which by the way, I'm overweight AND work in Arizona's typically 120F attics.) Anyways about an hour per room would earn me about $30 an hour. I think other people would be willing to do it for even less than that though.

      If you're doing it yourself, you can probably do the job equally well as I can, but you'll need to go down to home depot or lowes and get the cheapest RJ45 crimper you can find (about $20) maybe a 300 foot spool of cat5e wire (as cheap as $20) a box of RJ45 terminators (about $20) modular jacks (about $5 each) and modular faceplates (about $1 each.)

      Go spend about an hour on youtube to see how to crimp RJ45 ends (it's actually easier than it sounds) and stick with the 568-b standard for all ends. Don't worry about crossover, straight through, etc. Every time I hear people try to be "smart" and talk about doing it "right" I kind of chuckle, and here's why: Part of the gigabit ethernet standard (that is, to receive IEEE 802.3 certification for gigabit) the switches AND the ethernet ports MUST provide the auto-MDIX feature, so fretting about crossover is pointless.

      As for the jacks, they're really easy to wire, just follow the little instruction manual, they even include the little plastic punch tool in the box (at least, I haven't seen any brand that doesn't include it.)

    4. Re:Combine the 2 by n3r0.m4dski11z · · Score: 1

      "Go spend about an hour on youtube to see how to crimp RJ45 ends (it's actually easier than it sounds) and stick with the 568-b standard for all ends. Don't worry about crossover, straight through, etc. Every time I hear people try to be "smart" and talk about doing it "right" I kind of chuckle, and here's why: Part of the gigabit ethernet standard (that is, to receive IEEE 802.3 certification for gigabit) the switches AND the ethernet ports MUST provide the auto-MDIX feature, so fretting about crossover is pointless."

      Are you saying here that 1) You don't punch both ends with the proper wiring (straight through) (you also seem to think it doesn't matter) and 2) that you are seriously suggesting wiring wallports to RJ-45 ends as opposed to a proper patch panel?

      Boy no wonder you only charge $30 an hour! One gets what one pays for indeed!

      --
      -
    5. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Those are really optimistic prices for both a DIY and professional installation! Also, dubious, that a professional installer would omit mention of a patch panel in list of equipment needed. Maybe we have different views on what a professional install entails.

      Don't skimp on network gear, everyone. Network wiring problems are problems you do not want. It is difficult to track down a loose connector or failing wire.

    6. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      He's talking about budget residential installations, and most people wire 568B everywhere in my experience. I grew *very* skeptical when he suggested Trendnet stuff and cat5e for new installations, though.

    7. Re:Combine the 2 by xQx · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Are you saying here that 1) You don't punch both ends with the proper wiring (straight through) (you also seem to think it doesn't matter) and 2) that you are seriously suggesting wiring wallports to RJ-45 ends as opposed to a proper patch panel?

      1) No, he's saying wire all the ends into the 568-b standard colors that will be clearly marked on the RJ45 wallports, and follow the 568-b pinout on wikipedia for the RJ45 plug ends.
      2) Yeah, I read that too... I've always done the 'patch panel' end using standard wall-ports and a 6-gang wall plate. It fits in much better in a home environment than a 1RU patch panel. But he is suggesting not doing sockets at the far end, just getting one of those wall plates with a big hole and terminating them as plugs to go straight into a switch/router. I wouldn't do it that way, but if it's in a cupboard out of the way, it is the simplest and cheapest option.

      What you do in a domestic environment is different from commercial.

    8. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      ahahah mod parent up. this guy is giving horrible advice

    9. Re:Combine the 2 by Fjandr · · Score: 1

      Man, the attics only get to 120F in Arizona? I would've guessed quite a bit higher, given that those near the northern border will easily reach that in the summer as well.

    10. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If it was me i would just lay cat6 around on the floor near/on the skirting boards, just need to tape them down to the floor when going under a door to make sure the outer layer doesnt wear through.

    11. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Are you saying here that ... 2) that you are seriously suggesting wiring wallports to RJ-45 ends as opposed to a proper patch panel?

      Boy no wonder you only charge $30 an hour! One gets what one pays for indeed!

      Why not? What is the advantage of a patch panel in this situation?

    12. Re:Combine the 2 by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      If you're doing it yourself, you can probably do the job equally well as I can, but you'll need to go down to home depot or lowes and get the cheapest RJ45 crimper you can find (about $20) maybe a 300 foot spool of cat5e wire (as cheap as $20) a box of RJ45 terminators (about $20) modular jacks (about $5 each) and modular faceplates (about $1 each.)

      Go spend about an hour on youtube to see how to crimp RJ45 ends (it's actually easier than it sounds) and stick with the 568-b standard for all ends. Don't worry about crossover, straight through, etc. Every time I hear people try to be "smart" and talk about doing it "right" I kind of chuckle, and here's why: Part of the gigabit ethernet standard (that is, to receive IEEE 802.3 certification for gigabit) the switches AND the ethernet ports MUST provide the auto-MDIX feature, so fretting about crossover is pointless.

      105 metres of cable doesn't sound like a lot for a 5 bedroom house to me. I have part-wired my 2 bedroom house (finishing the job is on my todo list) and 105 metres of cat6 got me 4 sockets in the living room and 3 sockets in the office, all running back to a cabinet in the office. At some point I will finish the job to a total of 4 sockets in the living room, 2 in each bedroom, 2 in the kitchen, 2 in the stair well (for one of the wifi APs), 2 in the attic, 6 - 10 in the office.

      As for crossing over - IMHO it's important to do straight through everywhere, because you may not always be running Ethernet over the structured cabling. My POTS/VDSL is terminated in the living room, but I don't want equipment there so that gets patched straight into the structured cabling and the VDSL modem and PBX is in the data cabinet. Similarly I have a POTS handset plugged into the structured cabling (which the PBX automatically bridges directly to the POTS line if there's a power outage).

      The biggest pain is running hidden cables - running them under the upstairs floors involves removing furniture and pulling up carpets and floorboards, and getting the cable from the floor space into the stud walls involves drilling a hole with a 90 degree bend in it because the floor cavity of each room has a support beam at the edge, and the stud walls are capped with timber, so any cables need to go through the support beam, make a 90 degree bend, then go through the cap. I'm sure it was fine when the power cables were put in during construction since it would've been done before the plasterboard was put up, but trying to retrofit is a problem.

      Secondly, my living room has a load of sound insulation bonded to the back of the plasterboard on one of the walls, filling the cavity - I've pretty much written off any idea of putting sockets in that wall since it would involve chasing the cable into the wall rather than just running it through the cavity. I might reconsider when it's time to decorate, but I'm not about to trash the existing decor. There are a couple of places where I've just ended up putting a section of surface conduit on the wall because there was just no sane way to run hidden cables without doing serious damage to the decor.

    13. Re:Combine the 2 by SuiteSisterMary · · Score: 1

      I'm going to give a qualified 'no' to this one. I'm a network engineer, this IS my business

      I'm a network engineer, who does microwave backhauls (licensed and unlicensed), myself. And it's an unqualified no. And although you say it's a qualified no, you then go on to explain all the reasons it doesn't work. :-)

      There is zero way to get useful, reliable gigabit speeds over a wireless LAN setup, or over BoP. The spectrum and SnR just aren't there.

      Even licensed links have issues getting gig+ speeds. The usual method is xpic setups, clean Fresnel zones, licensed frequency, huge dishes, and you still have to contend with rain fade and the like.

      Hell, freespace optic wouldn't work for the guy, unless he was willing to drill holes in walls, hope nobody tall walked past, etc etc.

      No, the only way to get gigabit speed in the house is through wires.

      --
      Vintage computer games and RPG books available. Email me if you're interested.
    14. Re:Combine the 2 by Guspaz · · Score: 1

      802.11ad will easily do well over a gigabit, but it sort of doesn't penetrate walls... or even oxygen molecules. Hence the super-short almost-line-of-site range of it and other 60GHz solutions. Also, I don't think it's actually on the market yet.

    15. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My attic is usually 40-50 above outside, even when it's 105 out.

    16. Re:Combine the 2 by Slashdot+Parent · · Score: 1

      I personally would wire a five bedroom house for the $150 range plus the cost of materials

      Where the hell do you live, and would you like to wire my house today?

      --
      They don't grade fathers, but if your daughter's a stripper, you fucked up. --Chris Rock
    17. Re:Combine the 2 by bluefoxlucid · · Score: 1

      You drill a hole. You cut out a square in the drywall. You fishtape Ethernet cable from a box through the wall to the switch, which is hooked to the demarcation device.

      It's not that much work. A little cutting, screwing, then drywall putty, a light sand, and paint. You don't have to pull out major demolition here.

    18. Re:Combine the 2 by RavenLrD20k · · Score: 2

      Are you saying here that 1) You don't punch both ends with the proper wiring (straight through) (you also seem to think it doesn't matter) and 2) that you are seriously suggesting wiring wallports to RJ-45 ends as opposed to a proper patch panel?

      For your first point, he's saying don't bother with wiring the house with crossover lines, just use straight through cable to go from your jacks (which if you noticed the next line after what you quoted, he is running jacks in the room, not RJ-45 crimps) in each room to the central switch. Don't forget that this is for residential use: One jack per room is usually sufficient. He is right that using a Gigabit Ethernet switch should automatically change the port operation from straight-through to crossover depending on what device it's being connected to, therefore it technically doesn't matter; it's just a better practice to treat it like it does. In my own residential setup, I ran straight-through to one jack in each room, up into the attic space, and plugged them all into a gigabit switch mounted near the access door. If any of the rooms has multiple computers in it, I would just plug a crossover patch cable in the jack and run it to another gigabit switch in the room, and have all the computers connect into that.

      There are two ways that your second point can be interpreted. You either think that he's crimping an RJ-45 end on the cable where it comes out of the wall and leaving enough cable in the wall to be able to pull it out and make the connection in the room (not what he's doing; again, read his next sentence after what you quoted.); or you think that he's wiring the jack in the room back to a switch that he's connecting into using an RJ-45 connector (this is exactly what he's doing), and don't understand why he'd do it this way as opposed to running it to a patch panel.

      While patch-panels are a veritable necessity in your large environments where cable runs can be complex and need to be labeled as well as quick changes to network topology can be facilitated, in a residential system where there's most likely only going to be 5 - 10 single line runs that aren't going to move or change much it's an added cost and complexity that doesn't necessarily need to be purchased when each run can be directly connected into the mounted switch and left alone. Also, every time you jump from cable to patch panel to cable to device there's a performance hit on the network. Granted, over the residential runs we're talking about this hit would be nigh negligible, but if it's part of a network plan that adds a touch more complexity that isn't needed and poses no real benefit, its just one more reason to do direct-to-switch runs. Remember, we're talking about spaces where you have a single line coming from the switch and you can most likely easily trace it to the room it's running to just by standing in one place in the attic and following the line with your eyes.

    19. Re:Combine the 2 by macromorgan · · Score: 1

      A lot of the newer ones should be able to handle a gigabit connection. The problem is (unfortunately) is that it relies on hardware based NAT acceleration which sadly doesn't work with most 3rd party firmwares. I grabbed a Asus RT-AC68U which should get close enough to a gigabit to be okay for my needs; the advantage is it is one of the very few routers that has a 3rd party firmware (AsusWRT Merlin) that maintains NAT acceleration while adding to the factory firmware.

    20. Re:Combine the 2 by jeffmeden · · Score: 1

      "Go spend about an hour on youtube to see how to crimp RJ45 ends (it's actually easier than it sounds) and stick with the 568-b standard for all ends. Don't worry about crossover, straight through, etc. Every time I hear people try to be "smart" and talk about doing it "right" I kind of chuckle, and here's why: Part of the gigabit ethernet standard (that is, to receive IEEE 802.3 certification for gigabit) the switches AND the ethernet ports MUST provide the auto-MDIX feature, so fretting about crossover is pointless."

      Are you saying here that 1) You don't punch both ends with the proper wiring (straight through) (you also seem to think it doesn't matter) and 2) that you are seriously suggesting wiring wallports to RJ-45 ends as opposed to a proper patch panel?

      Boy no wonder you only charge $30 an hour! One gets what one pays for indeed!

      When you buy keystones for wall jacks, they come with 568A and 568B coloring on them. Telling the difference on the tiny little lable might elude some novices. The point of saying this is that it doesn't actually matter (but given the choice just use 568B on all ends to keep it simple). He even mentions that you should use wall jack kits, not just dangle a cable with a RJ45 on the end of it out of a hole in the wall. Jeez.

    21. Re:Combine the 2 by beerdragoon · · Score: 1

      If you're doing it yourself, you can probably do the job equally well as I can, but you'll need to go down to home depot or lowes and get the cheapest RJ45 crimper you can find (about $20) maybe a 300 foot spool of cat5e wire (as cheap as $20) a box of RJ45 terminators (about $20) modular jacks (about $5 each) and modular faceplates (about $1 each.)

      No, just no. First of all, use cat6 cabling. It is only slightly more expensive than 5e but is a lot more future proof (i.e. 10GBASE-T up to 50meters). You could go 6a but it is a lot more expensive and the cabling is much thicker, making it more difficult to work with. Second, don't bother buying a crimper and making your own cables. It just isn't worth it when you can buy pre-terminated and pre-tested cat6 cables for like $5 or less. Just buy the spool of cable, modular jacks and face plates. If you want to get really fancy, get a cat6 patch panel for the side where all the terminations end up. The jacks and patch panels are worlds easier to terminate than the cable ends, especially when dealing with cat6.

      Terminate everything with T586A and don't worry about doing any crossover stuff. The only time you will need a crossover, is if you are going switch to switch. Even then, this isn't 2002, most switches are auto-mdix now days. If you end up having to need a crossover for some reason, then just buy one. Again, they are like $5.

    22. Re:Combine the 2 by macwhiz · · Score: 2

      I would add:

      • Do NOT buy your jacks at Home Depot, unless your local HD is still stocking Leviton parts. The Home Depot house brand "Commercial Electric/CETech" networking components are total crap. I have never had a jack I've punched down fail to work... until I bought the CETech parts and had all of them fail to work, or break in the process of assembling them. Leviton parts are good but expensive. I've had good luck with Shaxon parts from Amazon, but they're not quite cross-compatible with Leviton parts/faceplates.
      • Invest in a decent punchdown tool. You CAN use the little plastic tool that comes with the parts you order at Home Depot. A good punchdown tool will work much better, and lets you use bulk bags of parts that are cheaper.
      • Invest in a data cable stripper. This is a little tool that you squeeze open, slip over the Cat5 cable, and twist to cut the outer layer of insulation without nicking the wires. You CAN do this by hand with a pocketknife, but if you're wiring up a whole house, you will save so much time and aggravation that the slight cost of this tool is absolutely worth it.
      • If you find you're going to be running more than one or two wires along a particular beam, buy some commercial-style "J hooks" for data cable. You can special-order them at Home Depot. Cable staples work, but they're unwieldy for running many wires in parallel. J-hooks make expansion easy.
      • Buy plenty of Velcro. When making data cables neat, Velcro is your friend. Remember, the fuzzy side goes toward the cables; the hook side is more abrasive.
      • Label your cables. You can use a regular label maker. If you have access to a cable label maker—one that makes labels that wrap around the wire—that's even better, but they're usually really expensive. Remember that eventually someone else will own your house, use labels they'll understand: "front bedroom", not "Jane's room".
      • If you're crimping 8P8C Modular ("RJ-45") ends on your cables, invest in the little rubber strain relief boots that slide over the cable BEFORE you crimp on the end. They make for a better looking job and they protect the cable. You can get a lifetime supply bag of 'em on Amazon in your choice of colors pretty cheap.
      • Don't forget that national and local electrical codes apply to data cable wiring. Check your local codes. They usually specify things for a reason. In particular, obey what they say about running data wiring near power wiring, and about sealing up any holes you drill that go between floors with an appropriate fire retardant caulk or foam.
    23. Re:Combine the 2 by macwhiz · · Score: 1

      Also, a tool that is your best friend when installing new wall jacks that you're wiring down to the basement: There is a special drill bit that has a long (4+ foot) flexible shaft and an auger tip with a hole in it. It comes with a handhold that lets you insert it into the hole you made in the wall, twist it down, and have it bite into the base of the wall. It drills through into the basement, where you then attach the small wire basket that comes with it to the hole. Push the wire into the basket and tug to tighten it. Then, go upstairs and pull the drill back out, engaging reverse drive if needed (the basket has a swivel on it for this purpose). The wire comes with it. No additional fish tape needed. It's in the electrical-tools section of any big-box hardware store.

    24. Re:Combine the 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You would wire a five-bedroom house for $150? Seriously? If you're doing anything more than just dropping the cable on the floor, I'm wondering why a "network engineer" would place so little value on his time. To do the job PROPERLY, run inside walls, terminated correctly, tested, etc. would cost quite a bit more.

      Honestly, I don't think you've ever run cable before. You sound just like the guy who says, "How hard could this possibly be?"; and six hours later he's sweating and cursing. I was that guy 17 years ago. I learned my lesson... call someone who's a professional at running cable, and be ready to pay for a professional's results. I've never gone wrong.

    25. Re:Combine the 2 by datavirtue · · Score: 1

      What is wrong with trendnet? Reviews are good and I have been using the hell out of a trendnet switch which has proven reliable. Many gigs traverse it each day with multiple users--not one single hiccup in three years, never rebooted.

      --
      I object to power without constructive purpose. --Spock
    26. Re:Combine the 2 by datavirtue · · Score: 1

      Seriously, I wouldn't show up for less than $200.

      --
      I object to power without constructive purpose. --Spock
    27. Re:Combine the 2 by datavirtue · · Score: 1

      Let us know when you move out of your mom's house.

      --
      I object to power without constructive purpose. --Spock
    28. Re:Combine the 2 by ArmoredDragon · · Score: 1

      Are you saying here that 1) You don't punch both ends with the proper wiring (straight through) (you also seem to think it doesn't matter)

      Neither of these are important in that kind of setting. If you believe otherwise, I'd never advocate anybody hire you because you seem to believe in added complexity where it isn't needed. Another term for this is over-engineering, and it's nothing more than wasteful.

      2) that you are seriously suggesting wiring wallports to RJ-45 ends as opposed to a proper patch panel?

      For a typical low budget/SOHO type setting, a patch panel isn't necessary. It just adds to the complexity and cost without adding any real value. Instead I prefer to use a label maker and tag the cables. Cheap and effective.

      Boy no wonder you only charge $30 an hour! One gets what one pays for indeed!

      Everything you ask for above is tantamount to insisting that anything less than a gold plated toilet paper dispenser is unacceptable for carrying the material that you wipe your ass with.

      You also fail hard at basic economics. Here's why:

      Most people who would want their whole house wired are in the situation where they aren't willing to pay much more than if they had just gone with any of wifi, moca, or powerline adapters. If going with a wired solution costs too much more than those, then they'd simply go with the alternative. It's a classic example of substitution. You can't just price yourself out of their budget and expect that they'll eventually be willing pay you anyways.

      Having said that, "intelligent" isn't a word anybody has ever used to describe you, is it?

    29. Re:Combine the 2 by Agripa · · Score: 1

      I think you'll need to look for a decent main router/firewall pretty hard, I'm not sure about some of the newer home based ones, but I've heard many consumer routers, even ones rated for GBit internally, won't do GBit on the WAN port to the ISP.

      This is a common problem. The switch ports are bridged to each other on layer 2 in hardware so they run at full speed. the WAN port is on the other side of the router which operates on layer 3 and routing requires a lot more processing power than switching or bridging on layer 2.

      Early 100 MBit routers had the same restriction with their WAN port being slower than their LAN ports even though they all supported the same Ethernet speed.

  42. For crying out loud by msobkow · · Score: 1

    Dragging CAT6 is no worse than dragging a phone line. Get off your lazy arse and do it.

    --
    I do not fail; I succeed at finding out what does not work.
    1. Re:For crying out loud by stiggle · · Score: 1

      Dragging CAT6 is better than a phone line as you can use it for so many other things (aswell as a phone line).

  43. tank by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Hey guys. I just bought an army tank. Now I wanna be able to tow it home on my push bike. Can you please tell me the strongest knot I can use to tie a rope from bike to tank?

  44. Powerline adapters? by nitehawk214 · · Score: 2

    Seriously it is super easy to run cat5e in a house; even if you rent you can do it in a way that does not damage anything.

    What the hell has happened to Slashdot when people can't be arsed to run a bit of cable?

    --
    I'm a good cook. I'm a fantastic eater. - Steven Brust
    1. Re:Powerline adapters? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not everyone here is an IT / DIY nerd.

    2. Re:Powerline adapters? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I can understand it being easy in a ranch. But in a colonial, you are going to have to deal with a lot of drywall patching which I hate.

      And in my house, there is no way to get cable to the area that is over my garage. You'd have to see the layout.

  45. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

    Don't forget a snake to chase the cables through the walls. Getting the cable from the attic to the right level at the wall is usually the hardest part. Depending on the home construction, it can be almost impossible.

    I ran the surround sound speakers for a friend. The TV, receiver, etc, were in a corner of two outside walls. The standard local construction was concrete blocks, a 1x2 or 1x3 strip vertically, some very thin fiberglass and vapor barrier, and finally the drywall for the interior. Outside walls also have a double layer of 2x4 for the header.

    Since you're working where the roof meets the wall, you usually barely have room to get a drill in, and definitely can't get close enough to see down the hole.

    Inside walls are a lot easier, if you can use them. They don't usually have a header, nor insulation.

    It helps to have a friend (but not to be the friend) who has done it before. It takes some pretty serious bribes to get me to even think about doing it. :)

    I always suggest wired over wireless. It will always be a better connection.

    --
    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  46. Running Ethernet cable not always difficult by Jmstuckman · · Score: 1

    Is your router on the first floor, and does your house have an unfinished basement (no finished ceiling)? If so, you can easily run Ethernet cable through the basement. Just drill one hole in the floor near the fiber device, and another hole where you need your computer. Run the cable into the basement. This is easy to hide if you have carpet -- if you have hardwood, drill it near an existing opening (like the heating duct).

  47. No home router can handle 1Gb/s by Mr_Wisenheimer · · Score: 1

    My relatively new Linksys cannot even handle my 110 Mb/s connection. There are home routers out there from the tests that seem to handle upwards of 800 Mb/s, so be sure to buy one of those since they are actually pretty close to the real-world throughput of 1 GB/s copper ethernet.

    As for how to take advantage? No question that you have to go with 1000 Mb/s ethernet, if not for the sake of your inetnet, then just for local sharing. You might also want to upgrade your wireless to take advantage, but really you should be concerned mostly with the speed of your desktops and home servers.

    1. Re:No home router can handle 1Gb/s by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A FreeBSD VM on my home NAS (E3-1230v2 on a X9SCM-F, 2 LSI 2008s and a total of 6 1GbaseT ports thanks to a intel I340 adapter in addition to the onboard) happily packet filters, NATs and QoSes at 1Gb/s. Using a whopping 14% of one core.

    2. Re:No home router can handle 1Gb/s by macwhiz · · Score: 1

      Indeed. I only have 150Mbps service, and yet the cable guys are constantly amazed that I can achieve that throughput (or more, they don't hard cap it) consistently. The reason is that my router is a home-built UNIX PC with two Intel NICs and the cheapest Intel Celeron processor you can buy—which is massive overkill for a home router.

    3. Re:No home router can handle 1Gb/s by Mr_Wisenheimer · · Score: 1

      My plan is to get one of those $200-300 netgear routers. They have high clock speed, dual core processors and the $200 one can fully install DD-WRT (I believe) while the more expensive one does not have a build for it (due to it having multiple CPUs). It wouldn't be an immediate thing (I've got Linux on three routers already) since the netgear firmware seems pretty feature-filled. Hopefully, the tests are correct and it can handle 800 Mb/s, because I am capped at about 50-60 per computer right now, maybe achieving only about 80 Mb/s overall due to my Cisco's slow NAT.

      I thought about using my server as a router. It's a quad-core 940 i7. But it's already running Windows 2012 and virtualizing Ubuntu Server. I'm sure it could handle the load, but I would prefer perhaps something a bit lighter weight and less power-hungry.

      Still, if I had a 1 Gb/s connection like the OP, that might be the way to go. Either Linux or Windows should be able to pull home router duties without straining a quad or sex core i7 too much.

    4. Re:No home router can handle 1Gb/s by macwhiz · · Score: 1

      I was curious, and last night I priced out a basic "stick pfSense on me" box with reasonable quality components. With the exception of Realtek NICs instead of Intel—which might be a problem as you go past 150Mbps, Realtek NICs don't have a terribly glorious reputation—you can assemble a Mini-ITX based system with mirrored drives for $360. Intel used to make some dual-NIC "corporate workstation" boards that worked really well, especially if you ponied up for a better CPU that supported vPro, so you could do remote IPMI console. Unfortunately, Intel got out of the motherboard business.

      I haven't tried any of this equipment, so it may actually suck, but here's the bill of materials I came up with for "so you want to build your own router with commodity parts". Obviously, you could go with server-grade parts or with a ready-built box of various flavors too...

      • BIOSTAR Hi-Fi B85N Mini-ITX motherboard
      • 2x4GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) DIMMs
      • Cooler Master Elite 110 RC-110-KKN2 case
      • COOLMAX CX-400B ATX power supply (but I'd spend a little extra on an Antec VP450 myself)
      • Intel Celeron G1840 CPU (dual core 2.8GHz Haswell)
      • Two Western Digital Blue WD2500AAKX 250GB disks

      Something like that should be able to handle any reasonable real-world home network needs. RAM is pretty cheap; you could probably do fine with 4GB. SSDs are all the rage, but spinning rust is cheaper and disk speed isn't really a big factor for a router.

      However, as a matter of common-sense security, I'd recommend keeping any such box limited to being a router/firewall. Sure, run DHCP and DNS services on it... perhaps OpenVPN... but resist the temptation to load it up with other services. You'll just bog down the performance and increase the potential attack surface, especially if you accidentally misconfigure the firewall.

  48. Wire adds value to your house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Just bite the bullet and run the wire. And, as long as you're pulling cable for networking, pull another network run at the same time, and seriously consider also pulling a telephone line and high quality coax for cabe/satellite. Why? You just upgraded your house to be multimedia ready, which believe it or not also just added value.

    1. Re:Wire adds value to your house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It does not add measurable value to your home to be fully wired. It does help a house stay on the market a shorter amount of time. The reason is, paying someone to run wire will cost around $125/hr. And they aren't going to take 10 hours doing it. Expect to pay around $1k-2k depending on how many drops you want and how much of a pain your house is to run wire. Let's say you have 8 bedroom mcmansion, you shouldn't pay $8k to wire the whole place, although most people with mcmansions do pay that much, not realizing or caring how little labor and materials are involved.
      If you are hypothetically increasing a $3m mcmansion by $8k, does anyone care? A buyer would probably pay your more money to leave the fancy refrigerator and 7 burner range.
      For a small installation, people aren't going to value it at more than $1k. although having it ready to go does help a sale in terms of making the buyer feel better.

    2. Re:Wire adds value to your house by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      It does not add measurable value to your home to be fully wired. It does help a house stay on the market a shorter amount of time.

      I'm not convinced enough people care about a wired house for it to make a measurable difference on anything at all. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that the vast majority of people don't understand why they might want wired rather than wireless (and an increasing proportion of the population are using computing devices that can't even be connected to a wired network these days too).

      As a techy, whether or not a house is wired is probably something that I would care about, but there are an awful lot of other far more important things I would be interested in too, to the point that I doubt that the wiring is likely to make much of a dent in my decision making process.

      More likely, I suspect, is someone non-technical looking at my house and concluding that the neatly installed comms cabinet containing the patch panel, VDSL modem, etc. is an unsightly waste of space and that they need to do work to remove it.

    3. Re:Wire adds value to your house by WindBourne · · Score: 1

      You got it MOSTLY right.
      The one thing that I will add to this, is with the massive amounts of security break-ins, wired will take on a preference over wireless.

      --
      I prefer the "u" in honour as it seems to be missing these days.
  49. You could try by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    growing some balls and install some remodel boxes. (also called low voltage remodel ring) Then snake it down into a crawl space or basement, or up into an attic. It's like one weekend of your time if you've never done it before. An hour per outlet if you're can wiggle along in an attic or crawl space at a reasonable pace.

  50. Doesn't matter by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    First you would need to buy some enterprise grade network kit and adapters that can actually handle 1 gig worth of traffic. Unless you're willing to do that, anything else is really irrelevant. Just use some wireless 802.11ac WAP and some cheap cat 5e patch cords. You won't be able to tell the difference with consumer PCs, mobiles and network kit.

    1. Re:Doesn't matter by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Huh? Every unmanaged $20 8-port GbE switch has no problem sustaining line rate.
      Neither does the onboard NIC on a $50 H81 board.
      The last NIC I saw a that couldn't saturate GbE was a PCI e1000 back in the days of AGP/PCI boards.
      Hmm, actually that might have been the crappy via chipset on that board limiting PCI bus throughput... pretty sure I had 116MB/s TCP using the same PCI e1000 adapters between other boxes back then.

    2. Re:Doesn't matter by putaro · · Score: 1

      The problem is usually routers. Build up one on a PC and use PFSense or another software router package.

  51. You cant by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Thats more than the Internet supports

  52. Hardwire using cables from bluejeanscable.com by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Use all Gigabit switches and hardwire as much as possible. Buy your cables from http://www.bluejeanscable.com read this article http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/is-your-cat6-a-dog.htm and you'll find out that almost any cable that you buy will fail to met Gigabit ethernet specs unless you buy from bluejeans cable.

  53. Not just any ethernet by uberbrainchild8437 · · Score: 1

    Make sure you get the most out of your fiber with Denon AKDL1 cables

    --
    http://Anveto.com - Web Design, SEO, Marketing, Analytics & Security
    1. Re:Not just any ethernet by maeltor · · Score: 1

      A 500 cable? You can't possibly be serious!? Besides it being discontinued, its completely pointless for the use case here.

    2. Re:Not just any ethernet by putaro · · Score: 1

      I hear Zuckerberg wired his whole house with those.

  54. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Probably not his case, but some people (mostly gamers) care about latency. I'd gladly trade bandwidth for lower latency.

  55. Cost effective wire fish by Zynder · · Score: 1

    Harbor freight has wall fishes for $10. Can't beat that for something you'll use one time!

  56. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by HornWumpus · · Score: 2

    Break the bread and get the rare earth magnets made for the job. Or hack up a similar solution. Spherical magnets for the end of the wire. Big Strong honking Magnet for your hand.

    Unless the house is lath and plaster. Then you're just fucked. Take key walls down to studs and upgrade everything, day 1.

    --
    John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
  57. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If your home is already wired for coax cable, MoCA 2.0 offers PHY rates up to 1.4 Gbps (800 Mbps throughput). Coax cable is shielded, and experiences relatively little interference - far less than wireless. Latency is higher than ethernet but still sub-10ms.

    Some of the Google boxes already have builtin MoCA tranceivers.

  58. 5 or 8 port switch at the entertainment center by raymorris · · Score: 1

    > what would I do differently? Most rooms are fine. I find I could use more in one of the entertainment areas, but some of those devices are both wired and wireless (and if push came to shove, I would simply move a device to WiFi).

    You could also put a 5 port switch at the entertainment center. Then decide which devices can share a gigabit connection - you're not using them all at once anyway.

    At my house, the office has several devices, and two jacks on opposite walls. Three or four devices connect to a little 5 port switch in the office. The lines from each room connect to a centrally located 8 port switch at the top of a closet. One if those rooms has the big switch, where we plug in the file server, the pbx, the printer, the modem, etc. So I figure one or two ports per room, no matter which room. If one side of a room needs 8 ports it gets an 8 port switch right there.

    1. Re:5 or 8 port switch at the entertainment center by TWX · · Score: 1

      I don't like daisy-chaining L2 devices like that when there's not a lot of good reason to do so. They take extra power, and if they're not PoE themselves they take extra electrical outlets, and then you have the possibility of inadvertently creating a loop when you're working in a confined space, and causing problems.

      I'd rather have a direct run back to the switch. It's different if one is traversing buildings, but in a house it's not an issue most of the time.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    2. Re:5 or 8 port switch at the entertainment center by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      and then you have the possibility of inadvertently creating a loop when you're working in a confined space, and causing problems.

      Since I am doing exactly what raymorris suggested, I am curious about what you mean by this.

    3. Re:5 or 8 port switch at the entertainment center by Luyseyal · · Score: 1

      With poorly labeled cables in a tiny space, you might accidentally plug two ethernet cables from the main switch into the downstream switch. I suppose that could also happen on a multi-interface end device, though outside of dual-homed static IP servers, I can't recall running across that situation.

      -l

      --
      Help cure AIDS, cancer, and more. Donate your unused computer time to worldcommunitygrid.org. Join Team Slashdot!
    4. Re:5 or 8 port switch at the entertainment center by DavidRawling · · Score: 1

      Sure - I could. But that's extra devices and usually extra power points at those locations (esp if you want any POE - I doubt there will ever be a switch that can be powered by, AND deliver POE at the same time). So it's extra devices to buy and support and manage which is why I decided against it. Having the extra ports doesn't stop me doing it in the future either.

      The flip side of course is that a failure in one of the big switches takes a LOT of things offline and it's more expensive to replace. Not the VM cluster or servers - but about half the other devices (e.g. one of the WAPs, half the desktop points etc).

  59. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

    And don't forget, even if you get every device in the house at 600 Mbps wireless, that's still essentially a single collision domain, half-duplex. You'd be lucky to get 400 Mbps total throughput with 10 devices connected at 600 Mbps and 9 of them sending trivial traffic and one trying to use it all (unless you have some on 2.4 and some on 5 GHz, where you'll have two separate collision domains). And even that 400 Mbps is up and down combined, so 300 Mbps down on a 600 Mbps connection is a more realistic number with all devices connected at that 600 Mbps.

    When some are slower connections, you'll get much worse. A 1 Mbps 802.11b connection moving 500 kbps will flood the air for 50% of the time, cutting the speeds for everyone else, even if that slow one is connected to an N or AC AP. When you upgrade, you have to upgrade all, starting with the slowest.

  60. Overkill by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I would run cable for four 802.11AC APs and call it a day. Note that you will not get Gb from your APs, regardless of spatial streams or reception. There are losses involved and the quoted number is a theoretical peak. You can put them (and the runs) in the sub-floor or attic, nice and easy. Losses won't be significant through a home floor or ceiling.

    Personally I love physical runs and think they're worth the effort. I would do at least my home office or wherever I had my primary machine. Everyone else can jump on WiFi and will be happy.

  61. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by ArmoredDragon · · Score: 1

    No it doesn't introduce latency (at least, not any appreciable amount, even for really sensitive applications) rather it's just too unreliable and such a waste of a gigabit broadband connection (remember AC requires channel bonding to get gigabit, and you aren't going to channel bond too well with multiple devices trying to fight for spectrum.) See my reply here:

    http://ask.slashdot.org/commen...

  62. For real use or as a hobby? by iamacat · · Score: 1

    Real use: get the best 802.11ac router and count your blessings. It's very unlikely that any of internet services you actually use is able to saturate 433 mbps or whatever you get our of WiFi in practical use.

    Hobby: Get contractor recommendations from friends and compare prices. They don't have to be electricians let alone network specialists, just people who know how to tinker with walls a bit. You'll probably be able to get a couple of outlets for under $1K, especially if you are Ok with wires running around floor/walls. I guess if you were interested in doing such things yourself, you wouldn't ask the question?

    Avoid: Powerline anything. Very flaky and dependent on wiring layout and noise from other electrical stuff. You will never get anything like 802.11ac.

  63. I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Forget practical. It's not about the need to use the connection - it is all about knowing that it's there and that you haven't chocked any of it off.

  64. Just Wire It by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If you've got access to the attic or to the basement, wiring isn't really that big of a deal. Buy some bulk Cat 5e and a decent gigabit switch, spend about $35.00 on a decent crimping tool and buy a contractor pack of connectors and single-gang old-work low-voltage wiring boxes, and go to town. I have a two story house, and this is precisely what I did, with positively stellar results.

    The only thing that proved problematic was upstairs; what I wound up doing was hiring an electrician to snake three runs of Cat 5e through a pipe chase used for drainage pipes for the bathrooms on the second floor into the attic (the pipe chase ran from the second floor to the basement); once in the attic, I connected a small gigabit switch and continued the same procedure I used for the first floor, but this time from the other direction (ceiling down, instead of floor up). Finding the top of each wall space wasn't that difficult, I was able to mostly find it by looking for existing electrical wiring runs.

    I only hired the electrician because of the length of the run I needed, and the fact that a skilled electrician is about 10x more efficient at snaking cabling through existing walls. Practice, and all that. Even then, I only had him do the long run from the basement to the attic; the rest I did myself.

    In any case, in the end, I could be happier. I do have wireless, but only for the tablets that roam the house, or when I feel like working from bed. Any wireless solution I found was always a disappointment in some dimension.

    I will say that crimping connectors on Cat5 is probably one of the most meditative experiences you can have with a piece of technology. :)

  65. Re: more than I can technically achieve over wirel by Wovel · · Score: 1

    All MoCA speeds are theoretical and based on ridiculous conditions never found in the field. MoCA sucks. The best use for coax is pulling cat6 or cat 5e cable.

  66. who gives a shit? by retchdog · · Score: 1

    You are paying for a service which you haven't stated an use for, and yet you are worried that you're being ripped off unless you make up some stupid reason to "fully utilize" it (whatever that means; I guess you can always stream /dev/urandom to make sure you get your money's worth). But you can't even come up with a "utilization", so you're fretting about wiring instead.

    Again, who gives a shit? Just pay some monkey to wire up cat5. If you and your house are still around when you actually come up with a reason to do something better, pay another monkey to wire up (whatever the fuck).

    --
    "They were pure niggers." – Noam Chomsky
  67. No subsitute for hardwired Ethernet by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    10GbE costs about $100 per port now, if you can stand the smell of Netgear hardware on your packets. See Netgear ProSAFE Plus XS708E. If you dare.

  68. I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    "To get the highest quality Netflix experience in Ultra HD 4K, we recommend available bandwidth of at least 20Mbps. This provides enough throughput for the stream, which is about 16Mbps, plus headroom for service variability." - http://blog.netflix.com/2014/05/netflix-now-streaming-in-ultra-hd-4k.html

    1 Giga bit per second (Gbps) = 1000 (one thousand) Mega bits per second

    An Ultra HD 4K stream needs 2% of the bandwidth of a 1Gbps.

  69. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by cheater512 · · Score: 1

    I've done some tests with my home setup, 2 stories, upstairs 2.4ghz 3 antenna AC -> downstairs router 3 antenna AC -> upstairs 3 antenna 5ghz AC. I get about 10mbps via SSH easily, and I suspect it would get significantly better 5ghz -> 5ghz. No channel bonding, full compatibility with N/G.

    Its certainly not gigabit, but its way faster than anything you'd need on devices in arbitrary locations.
    If I had gigabit then I'd have a NAS or spare computer right next to the router to suck stuff down at max speed, and AC for everything else.

    Its plenty reliable. Not sure why you'd think it is unreliable.

  70. Re:No substitute for the real thing: cat5e or bett by A+Commentor · · Score: 1

    100mbit on powerline... not a chance.. I tried the 300Mbps ones, and couldn't get over 1-2 Mbps...

    --

    Looking for any old 8-bit Heathkit/Zenith software/hardware - http://heathkit.garlanger.com

  71. First, sell the powerline adaptors by l0n3s0m3phr34k · · Score: 1

    Either your going to have to hire a couple of contractors to do the drops, go buy your own kit, or do it on the cheap. Not sure how much per drop it is, but when I did it it was around $75 a drop. Depending on were the connection is (you never actually said) really depends on what options you have. Did he put it under the basement stairs, inside a haunted crypt, outside on top of a flagpole...

    Honestly, I don't know what kind of end equipment Google provides. Flat CAT6 cable isn't very expensive, a 100 foot pre-made cable is around $30 and it's really easy to hide. Run a cable up the wall, around the edge of the ceiling, from the endpoint to your computer room into the actual router, and run more flat cat6 from there. Personally, I have a Cisco RV180 as a router, a bunch of equipment in a rack, and then some flat cat6 running to a switch in the living room, the switch connects about 4 other computers plus a 1420AG AP.

    Even then I doubt you'll get full gig speeds. Even internally on my network, I top out around 800MB/s because of overhead, and my file server is teamed with dual intel server nics.

  72. Powerline AV2 hardware is coming out soon by grimsnaggle · · Score: 1

    Homeplug AV2 offers a 1200mbps symbol rate. Real speed will be lower, of course, but it'll get you closer. Here's a product that should be out soonish: http://www.trendnet.com/press/...

  73. I agree by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I just upgraded to 300Mb and several of the high end home routers were unable to keep up, even on the gigabit ports (i expected it on the wireless ports.)

  74. For the extra polished bits? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I hope that was a joke, since those cables are a fucking waste of money. They might have been able to sell their snake oil for analog cables but not for digital.

  75. Buy Pre-terminated cables by DMJC · · Score: 1

    If you're lazy like me, just buy pre-terminated 30m cables and run them from a switch in the roof or basement, (or a cupboard if you're really fancy) to wall plates scattered throughout the house. You can go up to 100M in length and it saves on crimping. Anything less than Ethernet is a joke and will be flaky as hell. You could also drop a ton of money on some Xirrus wireless but really for same cost, Cat-5/6 Ethernet is much better.

    1. Re:Buy Pre-terminated cables by Admiral_Grinder · · Score: 1

      This is what I did in my house. I have a drop ceiling basement so it made it easier. The female-female keystone modules may be the priciest part of it at $10 apiece. (I was buying 50 foot runs of cable from newegg for 10 dollars each). Been going on 5 years with now issues at all.

  76. Re:no, there isn't. F'n 1% er buys a house with fi by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

    Appreciate this response. I've grown very tired of my apartment complex's saturated wireless spectrum (both 2.4 and 5) because everyone is right on top of each other and every apartment has one of three routers from the different ISP options. Even when I wire up, the connections still suck because the lines going out are saturated. It is a terrible experience.

    Google Fiber availability in the new house (pre-installed) was a big plus. I just wish things were wired a little differently to make it more accessible.

  77. Re:Answer: You can't. Even wired by kstatefan40 · · Score: 1

    Definitely understand this. I was mainly interested in seeing if there were any innovative ways to distribute gig internally that I hadn't thought of. I'd be interested in having someone wire Cat 6 if they could do it without tearing up the walls. I used to be an IT contractor/consultant for public schools, and I had more than one nightmare with inside wiring.

    In short, I don't expect to need it right away. It is just an interesting technical challenge where the wireless is a bottleneck. The most I see myself using at the current point in time is about 100mbps when I am downloading backups from my VPS, which has a 100mbps pipe.

  78. Permanent conduits are the only way to go! by Terje+Mathisen · · Score: 1

    Here in Norway all electrical cables are installed inside plastic tubing, so you can pull out/replace them if you need to, with no need to tear down any walls. (BTW, we also do the same for water pipes: They are always installed as pipes-in-pipes, with a central drain point for the external pipes: This way any leak will be contained and you can fix it by pulling out the broken (usually due to freezing in winter) pipe and replace it.)

    When we built a new home a few years ago I specified that the electricians should put in spare conduits between the main breaker room and every other room in the house, except bathrooms, this way I could pull whatever cable I would need.

    Terje
    PS. The sad part of the story is that the installation company had never done anything like this in a residential building before and they messed up badly, omitting the spare conduits to important locations like the living room/entertainment center. They ended up giving me a substantial rebate but I'm still a bit pissed off. :-(

    --
    "almost all programming can be viewed as an exercise in caching"
  79. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

    The OP should have said "more than I can realistically achieve over wireless".

    --
    const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
    SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
  80. Re:no, there isn't. F'n 1% er buys a house with fi by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    I've grown very tired of my apartment complex's saturated wireless spectrum (both 2.4 and 5) because everyone is right on top of each other and every apartment has one of three routers from the different ISP options.

    Interesting. I didn't know that it was really possible to saturate the 5Ghz spectrum. 2.4 is easy with only having 3 non-overlapping channels, but 5Ghz has over twenty, and by default none of the channels overlap.

    Last time I was in a dormitory I found over 20 networks within scanning range of the guy's room, but there was only ONE other network on the 5Ghz spectrum.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  81. What do you want to DO with Google Fiber? by bickerdyke · · Score: 2

    I'm a bit amazed (well, then again, not at all) that no one asked what you actually want to DO with Google fiber. Who cares if you can't use its full speed over wireless when all you're doing on your PC is the usual /./FB/email-stuff.

    Put a small server (probabkly those NAS based things that run full-blown linux) next to your fiber jack. Have it handle all those big downloads that actually profit from the external fiber speed. Run a network cable to your TV and if you're using a desktop machine, to that machine.

    For everything else, use wireless. Your tablets cpu will be slower than even the wifi anyway already.

    --
    bickerdyke
    1. Re:What do you want to DO with Google Fiber? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I got the rainbow bunny in my yard too so I'll answer your question.

      I want to do stuff "NOW", not in 15 minutes or 2 hours. I want the download ( or upload when I vpn to work ) to happen like it does at my desk.

  82. Why? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    >I want gigabit ethernet without doing the thing that gives me gigabit ethernet.

    This "article" is trash.

  83. CAT-6 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Since you havent move in - perhaps it is best to run CAT-6 and have an ethernet gigabit switch
    just an ethernet jack or two in every room -
    will out beat any wifi you can buy

  84. Great problem to have by jbrown.za · · Score: 1

    It always makes me feel depressed when reading posts like this. I live in South Africa. The quality of service we get from our fixed line provider means that I rarely get more than 384 Kbps on a 2 Mbps DSL connection. The fact that you need a way to make your home network about 3000 times faster instead of just 1800 times faster than my connection makes me want to cry. What makes it worse is that I pay about $50 USD a month for the "service".

  85. Get it done. by Charcharodon · · Score: 1

    Don't be an ass, just run the network cable already for your main items. Use the wireless for all the junk items that can't take advantage of it anyway.

  86. Phone lines might be cat5e by ChaseTec · · Score: 1

    All my phone lines are cat5e. You just need to find where your POTS is wired into your internal lines and put in a switch and rewire the cables/jacks you want as ethernet instead of phone. If you don't have cat5e or better you either need to wire your house depending on the level of difficulty or just use 802.11ac.

    --
    My Hello World is 512 bytes. But it's also a valid Fat12 boot sector, Fat12 file reader, and Pmode routine.
  87. Here's how to make use of a gigabit by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Run a single Ethernet line to some central-point in the house and connect a very-decent 802AC router. There should be a very-decent desktop at that location to act as server: More to that in a moment. If you have a large (or long) home, run two more Ethernet lines to the home's end points. Again, connect to them very-decent 802AC routers. Now the house has full coverage for all wireless devices at very-good-enough speeds. Note that the routers must be properly configured to work together well, so get assistance with those settings as necessary.

    Back to that desktop. From that desktop you can run your own hosting service. Add a few RAIDs, a few NAS's, and add a pinch of Plex Media Server (or similar) software and you could host your very own Netflix-like service for friends and family. With a gigabit connection you could easily serve up video to dozens of others simultaneously. You can get fancy after that.

    Of course, Google my disapprove so you'll have to keep it on the down-low. :)

  88. MOCA by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Goog Fibre supports MOCA: IP over the existing Coax in the walls. That's a great bet for getting decent speeds everywhere...

  89. Re:Answer: You can't. Even wired by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There are no legal apps or services that exist or will exist in the next several years that could fully utilize this.

    FTFY. Pretty sure I could torrent enough to saturate given a sufficient storage system.

  90. Hire an electrician who has done it before... by klubar · · Score: 1

    Even in an old house, an electrician who is experienced with the local construction can run CAT6 cable. At the same time, the electrician can put in power outlets where you really want them and add any (electrical) switches that are inconveniently placed. Maybe you'd like a couple of outside outlets and to upgrade some of the lighting at the same time

    Figure about 2 days of an electrician + a helper at most; maybe $1,500 or $2,000. Consider it part of the purchase price of the house.

    Wiring is really a well-solved science, and there are professionals (or trades people) who know how to do it.

    If you can afford the house, hire some.

    1. Re:Hire an electrician who has done it before... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Consider it part of the purchase price of the house.

      Um, houses are usually financed. So just because the guy is purchasing a house, doesn't mean he has $2000 just laying around.

      Well, ok, he probably should for emergencies. But I'm not sure I could justify dipping into an emergency fund for something like this.

  91. Fileserver near the jack by Sloppy · · Score: 1

    One computer, the fileserver, goes at the "awful location." This is the one that runs all the bandwidth-intense stuff (deluged, sabnzbdplus, etc) so you get to slurp up data at high speeds.

    The others, you connect to that as well as you can. They're mostly just going to be running video players or web browsers anyway. It wifi or powerline networking is the best you can do, fine.

    --
    As copyright owner of this comment, I authorize everyone to defeat any technological measure which limits access to it.
  92. Here's how I did it by pr0t0 · · Score: 1

    I have a traditional 2-story colonial home. There are four bedrooms, all on the second floor. I got a small spool of cat-6 "Siamese" cable; it's got coax and cat-6 separately jacketed, but heat-glued together. I recommend that even if Google Fiber doesn't use coax (does it?). You never know what the future may hold, and you're only going to want to do this once.

    I went into the attic and liberally measured off cable for each bedroom. I think I did something like 15' for the drop down the wall to the outlet (9' ceilings), plus the length to the sewage stack, plus another 12' per floor (12 for the first floor and 12 for the basement), then tacked on another 10' to run from the sewage stack to the networking wall. So each run ended up something like 60-65 feet. I had to use a hole-saw to drill a 3" hole next to the sewage stack on the second floor. It was behind a section of wall that had an air vent in it. I had to take the vent off and push the duct work out of the way. That was a little scary, and I wasn't able to get it back together perfectly, but it was worth it in the end. Once I was able to drop a weighted string to from attic to the basement, I taped up all the BR cables at one end, tied that to the string, and lowered them down along the sewage stack. I then did the runs down to the bedroom wallplates and terminated those. Then did the same for the basement. I used an 8-post coax line conditioner to terminate all the coax lines in the basement. All the cat-6 went into a wireless router and a switch: http://imgur.com/MeqFKrT

    I did separate runs for the family room on the first floor and three runs in the basement. In the end, I'm very happy with how it all turned out, and I would definitely do it again should I ever move.

    --
    I'm sorry, but your opinion seems to be wrong.
  93. Huh? by jon3k · · Score: 1

    Since when is running a few Cat5e/Cat6 drops "substantial structural or wiring modifications" ? You could have a drop in every room in the house for a couple hundred bucks. Or do it yourself on a Saturday. This is really, REALLY easy.

  94. Encryption, Encryption, Encryptio by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Encrypt every thing going out and coming in.

  95. I've been on Gigabit in EPB territory for a year by div_2n · · Score: 1

    Here's what I can tell you.

    1. Outside of torrents, you're not going to get the full benefit of that gig for most applications.
    2. Netflix is awesome with it. Load times of a few seconds for high def.
    3. Hard wire anything that doesn't move often (TV/Blu Ray/PS3/Desktop/etc) and have plenty of ports around the house you can plug your laptop in just in case you feel you need more speed.
    4. Use wireless the rest of the time. You seriously just won't notice that big of a difference web browsing unless you have serious interference issues although if you're gaming, you'll want to use the hard wire.

    Honestly with current web applications, a gig is just about overkill. Sure that might change in the future once gig becomes more prevalent, but it's seriously overpowered for pretty much everything currently. Short of having multiple people streaming HD video and downloading/uploading via torrents, your pipe is going to be bored most of the time.

  96. Re:No substitute for the real thing: cat5e or bett by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Curious, I just last week bought a pair of "600mbps" powerline adaptors (the joys of apartment living) and am getting ~350mbps on it.

    I've heard that the performance of these can vary greatly depending on how you are wired, especially the quality of the wiring.

  97. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by macromorgan · · Score: 1

    In my experience each stream of 802.11ac in the real world has the same bandwidth of a 100Mb network link. If you go triple stream, you'll be getting about 300Mbps (despite the 1.2Gbps "rating"). There really is no substitute for wired. I just bought a house a few months ago and one of the first things I did was drop CAT6A in as many rooms as I could. It's a pain in the ass since it's an existing 2 story home, but again, there is no substitute for wired.

  98. Have the ISP do it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I worked two years as a network administrator at a call center with 80 VoIP phones and desktops. At the office we only paid $50 to get an ethernet line ran through two stories of a commercial building. I imagine you could do ever better. And to me $50 is way better than going through the hassle of trying to do it yourself without the right tools and experience. They will have it done in an hour complete with an ethernet jack on the wall.

    I would definitely avoid powerline ethernet. The connection speeds are always slower than even wireless alternatives. Using a lot of power can disrupt the signal and cause latency, like when your A/C switches on any packets in transmission will be corrupted. Only windows computers can use this type of connection. All data must be encrypted, contributing to the slowness.

    And like others were saying, you're probably not gonna need a gigabit connection on all your devices. Just run one line into your office, put a file/print server and wireless router in there. You should be very pleased with the results and cost.

  99. Re:Answer: You can't. Even wired by bobaferret · · Score: 1

    I have fiber in my house as well; not Google, but got an opportunity and took it. It's a new house and we ran cat 5e everywhere. Maybe some day I'll regret not running cat 6, but I doubt it. I just recently put the ends on the cables, and stopped using wireless for everything. It's made a huge difference, and well worth it. It's not uncommon for 5 people to be streaming something different at the same time, and the wireless just couldn't handle it. Depending, you might be able to replace all of you phone lines with ethernet. You can always use an RJ11 in an RJ45 jack and just decide at the patch panel what it's going to be, phone or ethernet. If this isn't a new house, chances are you have a bunch of unused phone jacks just taking up wall space. And depending, you might just be able to pull the ethernet using the old phone line.

    good luck

  100. Two Rules by AnotherBlackHat · · Score: 1

    I've found two rules to be very helpful when dealing with this sort of problem;

    1. Don't buy it until you need it.
            Electronics in general are going to be cheaper, faster, and smaller in the future, so put off all buying of stuff as long as it's reasonable to do so.

    2. When you need it, buy it without hesitation.
            If the current best solution is X, then pay for X and don't worry about it. Yes, there's a better way, and yes, there's going to be an even better way in the future, and yes X is going to suck in 10 years. But there's no way to avoid that so don't sweat it.

    You have Google fiber. You have a 600Mbps solution to connect to that fiber. Do you need more than that, right now?
    If not then apply rule 1, and do nothing. If so, then apply rule 2 and wire your house with Cat6 (or pay someone else to do it.)

  101. Re:No substitute for the real thing: cat5e or bett by macromorgan · · Score: 1

    For best performance they need to be on the same breaker switch and not share the breaker with any electric motors or fluorescent lights. If they have noisy devices on their circuit, or are on a different breaker they'll run slower. If they have noisy devices and are on a different phase they may not work at all.

  102. Not really worth it by shaitand · · Score: 1

    For $200 you can get an electrician moonlighting from craigslist to run ethernet drops. One drop from that spot to a closet or convenient central place and drops to key locations around the house. I know, I did it myself not long ago. A decent wifi or powerline setup will cost just as much. And in the case of the wifi you are talking dramatically slower, the speeds you are looking at are ideal max speeds for one link. Wired provides full duplex speeds on a per connection basis. A 100mbps wifi link connecting 8 clients has a total combined bandwidth possibility of 100mbps. A 100mbps ethernet switch with 8 clients plugged in has a total combined bandwidth of 800mbps (it's 8up and 8down but since every 100 up is someone elses 100 down it's still just 800).

    I mean sure, you only have one 1 gbps link to google, but you could be streaming a movie from your NAS to your plex client while downloading the latest american horror story without either slowing the other down if you are wired.

  103. Re:Answer: You can't. Even wired by macromorgan · · Score: 1

    Cloud backups?

  104. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by shaitand · · Score: 1

    But why bother with the CAT6? It adds to the price tag, is less flexible, and 10gbe doesn't look to be heading anywhere near consumer price range anytime soon.

  105. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Ultra64 · · Score: 1

    "It adds to the price tag"

    A whole $20 more per 1000 feet.

  106. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Dishevel · · Score: 1

    Because CAT6 will last longer. If I am going to put something in that is not easily replaceable I am going to put in the best, longest lasting stuff I can.

    --
    Why is it so hard to only have politicians for a few years, then have them go away?
  107. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Just like my house builder that used thin wall L copper pipe instead of the thicker M pipe. 25 years later and my slightly acidic well water is boring pins holes all through my house at random causing water damage and I had to have my entire house replumbed at a cost of $5K. Actually i did it myself but my time is not free. He probably saved $20 in 1984 by using the thin wall copper pipe.

  108. Yeah, advice that leads to 90MBps is BAD by Maxwell · · Score: 1

    If you spent more money, buy way more expensive gear, buy a real rack, throw in a patch panel, do the crossover thing on it, patch it all in you can get 91MBps! The fools!

    I wouldn't do more than this for a house - why would you?

  109. Getting Google Fiber by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here are a few side comments you may not know about the Google Fiber installation in KC:
    1. They are hitting gas lines like they are playing in the majors. Someone should do a news report and ask the fire department how often they have to send units out when they brake these lines. We had to evacuate my house... twice.
    2. They are delaying installations "north of the river" by 6 months. That hurts a little bit, but I am sure no one else cares about my delay.

    I've talked to a friend about how we are going to use this thing. I am thinking about building a rack using either Cat6 or fiber in combination with PFSense, and FreeNAS. My FreeNAS box will have a 10GB card running to my computer. I don't have to do long runs because I am hoping to keep the rack in the basement and access my primary computer using a high def KVM/Extender over Cat6. That way I get zero noise from the fans, and can still pull 1920x1200 at my desk. I'd also recommend making the router wireless, so you can use a laptop anywhere in the house and use FreeNAS to broadcast to a TV and other devices using miniDLNA.

    Netflix only needs 6Mb/s for high def... I doubt I will be able to use 1Gb/s. Outside networks are too slow and will bottleneck you. Maybe you can use it if you do remote backups to GDrive. I wish they sold 100Mb/s for 1/10th the price. Without the ability to host a server for any of my start up ideas... its like giving a Lamborghini to someone and telling them they can't drive on the highway.

  110. Re:no, there isn't. F'n 1% er buys a house with fi by dj245 · · Score: 1

    I've grown very tired of my apartment complex's saturated wireless spectrum (both 2.4 and 5) because everyone is right on top of each other and every apartment has one of three routers from the different ISP options.

    Interesting. I didn't know that it was really possible to saturate the 5Ghz spectrum. 2.4 is easy with only having 3 non-overlapping channels, but 5Ghz has over twenty, and by default none of the channels overlap.

    Last time I was in a dormitory I found over 20 networks within scanning range of the guy's room, but there was only ONE other network on the 5Ghz spectrum.

    Read what the parent wrote- " the poor penetration of 5 GHz". Meaning it does not go through walls or other obstacles very well. Which is true. And a problem with deploying 5Ghz networks.

    --
    Even those who arrange and design shrubberies are under considerable economic stress at this period in history.
  111. *GASP* INFIDEL!!! Re:I have two answers for you by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm almost certain there is no real need for you to use the full gigabit connection

    Realistic needs have no place in this discussion! Clearly, the only acceptable answer is to install multiple runs of glass fiber to each room within smooth wall conduit and long sweep elbows. Ideally, you'd invest in a 10GigE fiber switch. You could just use transceivers on each end to connect the fiber to your 1GigE switch for now. That way, you're ready to upgrade for the next 5-10 years of the bleeding edge of prosumer networking.

  112. It's actually pretty easy to wire cat5e+ or cat6 by misosoup7 · · Score: 1

    You probably have telephone lines running through the house. One way to easily wire cat5e or cat6 cables is to run them the same way as the telephone wires. You open up the wall outlet for the telephone wire. Take it apart and tie the wire to a piece of string that is sufficiently long. Pull on the telephone wire in the basement until you see the string. Tie the cat cable to the string as well. Go back up stairs and pull on the string until both the telephone and the cat cable are up stairs. You can get a jack with both telephone and cat outlet from a electonrics hardware store and you can have ethernet cables running to all the telephone ports as well. Just repeat for the other jacks and you'll be wired in no time. Just remember to pick either 568a or 568b beforehand and stick to it. I recommend 568a because it's easy to wire into the punch block of the patch panel. As long as you stick to 568a the entire way through, everything should work out of the box.

  113. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by meustrus · · Score: 1

    10mbps is two orders of magnitude smaller than gigabit. Going the extra distance is the cutting edge of technology right now, while getting 10mbps over wireless was solved years ago and is now easy. And "reliable" refers to "reliably getting gigabit speeds", which is not something you are apparently qualified to judge.

    Practically speaking, sure, 10mbps is plenty of speed for today's internet. Most of the time. Well, actually we're just used to so much slower that it seems blazing fast, but then it's about as hard to imagine needing more than 100mbps as it is to imagine needing more than a 2TB hard drive. It's not like we've ever had to make do with less and found ways to use up the extra bandwidth/space. So why exactly does Google even want people to have gigabit to their homes?

    --
    I sometimes ask revealing, often ignorant-seeming questions. Maybe they're harder to answer than you think.
  114. Look at cable if the one location is near coax by JohnnyComeLately · · Score: 1

    I'm at work so I don't have time to wade through all the comments, but you might look at http://www.pulselink.com/ They do ethernet over coax, which if I recall goes well over gigabit speeds in some cases.

  115. easy to run cat 6 around the house by WindBourne · · Score: 1

    Seriously, it is a lot easier to run cat 6 around a house.
    First off, you have to be living in KC. That means that you have a basement. That means that you can run cat 6 into the first floor trivially. The hard part is dealing with the upstairs.
    Depending on the builder, you likely have a tunnel that goes from the basement to the attic, or you might have 1-2 2 or 3" conduits going from the basement up to the attic. You can simply run a single line up there and then put in place a switch, while you splay out to the various runs from the attic.
    If you do not have the easy access, then hire somebody to run a cat 6 inside of a conduit from the basement to the attic on the outside of the house. Do it in a corner, next to a downspout, etc. Then paint the conduit.

    Also do yourself a favor and run a line to the outside. Ideally, it will be trivial to disconnect (or more likely connect). I ran line up from the basement up to the dining area which the deck is outside of. Inside, I put this in a single gang box, with 2 quickports RJ-45s. The bottom one goes to the basement/network switch. The upper jack goes to an outside jack. When I want the outside, I simply plug in a small 4" connector. Otherwise, it leaves me an inside connection (useful for winter).

    --
    I prefer the "u" in honour as it seems to be missing these days.
  116. What gigabit content do you intent to ingress? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Think of you Gig pipe as your back plane. You are dividing it up at the house level.

    Yes you want some cool results from speedtest.net but beyond that your pipe is faster than most anything you'll connect to.

    Hard wire anything where absolute performance is paramount. The Powerline adaptors will woefully under perform their rated speeds but it is a fairly painless way to get Ethernet to a device that is not WiFi ready and doesn't need an incredibly fast Internet connection. I currently use PLE to connect my Tivos to the Internet and it works great for this low bandwidth application.

    The short answer is hard wire where you can and Wifi where you can't for best performance. If you need a hard wire connection and can't hard wire, the PLE adapters are an effective solution but I would expect WiFi to out perform the PLE link.

  117. You Don't Have to Go Nuts by sudon't · · Score: 2

    You don't have to go nuts wiring the whole house, (although that would be ideal). You could have one or two rooms wired, and use slower wireless elsewhere in the house. It's not like you always need gigabit. I have two desks in two different rooms where I can plug into the ethernet, Elsewhere, I just use the wifi. Not that I even have gigabit internet - I'm a Time/Warner Monopoly slave.

    --
    -- sudon't

    Air-ride Equipped

  118. Not hard wirk by Chewbacon · · Score: 1

    Get a small fish tape from your local hardware store and run Cat6. I did it over the period of a few nights climbing around in my attic. It was way too hot in Florida to do it in the day. Other options include running it up the wall and out the cap by your roof edges. You could just drill through the wall to the outside like the cable companies do. I wish more houses came wired with the stuff but even the newest ones don't.

    --
    Chewbacon
    The Bible is like Wikipedia: written by a bunch of people and verifiable by questionable sources.
  119. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by cheater512 · · Score: 1

    10 megabytes/s. One order of magnitude not two, over two different frequencies (non-ideal).

  120. Re: more than I can technically achieve over wirel by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Plenty of people do a trade how to learn to do this easily, and are equipped with the right tools for the job.
    That you find it hard might mean its time to let those moths out of your wallet.

  121. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm assuming you mean 100Mbps over SSH, which still isn't great. I get >200Mbps over 2.4GHz N for raw transfers (i.e.: without SSH de/encryption overhead).

  122. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by currently_awake · · Score: 1

    Run cat5e under the baseboards. Done carefully it's invisible. Or along the roof and paint the cables to match.

  123. A general question about GB internet via fiber... by mark_reh · · Score: 1

    Do any of the servers you connect to actually provide 1 Gbps if you try to DL a file?

    I have 15Mbps via TWC and rarely max it out unless the server I am DLing from is geographically close to me.

  124. Re: more than I can technically achieve over wirel by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    mb != MB

  125. Re:no, there isn't. F'n 1% er buys a house with fi by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    Read what the parent wrote- " the poor penetration of 5 GHz". Meaning it does not go through walls or other obstacles very well. Which is true. And a problem with deploying 5Ghz networks.

    You know, I've read his post 3 times and all I get is "saturated wireless spectrum (both 2.4 and 5)"? even CTRL-F doesn't find 'poor penetration' within it. I think you meant the GP.

    Personally, I haven't had any problems with 5Ghz, it's a lifesaver in areas like apartments/dorms where congestion is a bigger problem than range.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  126. Usenet? by unixisc · · Score: 1

    Usenet? Didn't it die like... decades ago?

  127. Re:more than I can technically achieve over wirele by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

    I was taught to do it with a snake. Rare earth magnets weren't all that common in the consumer market at the time, and there was no Internet to order them on. :)

    --
    Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.