To your last point:
Good. I want them to get a warrant each time they access data. It is called doing your job. I would like to to have remote root access to all the boxes I work with regularly because it would greatly speed up my daily activities but you know what it is a good thing that I can't remotely log into various SCADA systems remotely with root access.
To your first point: You do realize that a warrant can list more than one thing they are after. Also warrants need to be fairly specific, would you like it if the police could get a warrant that listed items of interest as being everything in your house? That is basically what they have now with the phone company, except they don't even have to get a warrant.
I get rather tired of people claiming that Somalia should be a Libertarian paradise, Somalia is an anarchist paradise. Granted there seems to be a rather large number of anarchists masquerading as Libertarians but despite how Libertarians are portrayed a large portion agree that some government is needed but the amount that is the current US Federal Government.
A couple of years ago one of the columnists in the local paper here was waxing on about using on as a sports reporter in the early 80s. It really did revolutionize sports reporting and was better than having to lug around a typewriter and rush back. I would post his column but the stupid local paper puts old articles and columns behind a pay wall and you can't really search for the old ones all that well.
I had to argue that once but I seem to have lucked out as the car that hit me was doing at least 55 mph and there was a witness who wasn't involved. My car was totaled, the trunk was basically shoved under the car, the frame bowed out and popped open the rear doors (they wouldn't close the last 6 inches) and my car got shoved into the car in front of me that I was waiting for to make their left turn. Their car didn't get it too bad, but unless I left 30 or 40 feet between me and the car in front of me I doubt that there would have been enough space. Also I was hit hard enough to brake the back of the drivers seat in my car (I am a big guy) but still had to deal with proving that I wasn't at fault. To make matters worse the vehicle that I was pushed into was a Minnesota State vehicle and the guy who hit me was flying higher than a kite.
If it is time for a new vehicle after only 140,000 or so miles and it hasn't been totaled in an accident you are doing it wrong. The vast majority of vehicles I have owned had higher miles on them than that when I got them. My current daily drive has 235,xxx miles on it and my Jeep has 371,xxx miles on it. Both run great get decent mileage (the Jeep gets good mileage for what it is and what I use it for) and are paid off. Insurance is cheap on them and I do most of the repairs and maintenance on them my self so the ongoing costs are minimal. My mom and step dad don't take care of their vehicles and they always need replacing every few years meanwhile my father actually takes good care of his stuff and it seems to last forever.
1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 257,xxx miles when it got junked because the oil pump failed on the highway and wrecked the motor
1985 BMW 528e 212,xxx miles when it got rear ended and totaled when stopped at a stop sign on a rural highway
1987 Buick Century 171,xxx miles when I got rid of it because it would have cost more in parts to fix the major fuel leak than it was worth
1996 BMW 318ti 179,xxx miles when it got rear ended, spun around into a fire hydrant and totaled.
1997 BMW 540i 235,xxx miles on it and it is still running great
1985 Ford Bronco II 252,xxx miles on it when one of the fuel pumps failed or the ignition control module failed, would have cost more to fix than it was worth.
1996 Jeep Cherokee 371,xxx miles on it and it is still running great
I very much doubt that a 1979 4x4 truck would be a death trap. You are talking about a body on frame setup and the frame on those older trucks is quite heavy. I have been in accidents where a body on frame vehicle was hit by a unibody vehicle and the unibody vehicle ends up much worse off.
Maybe it was in reference to the lack of valve options that Hemi engines have, mostly due to the head geometry. A true Hemi only allows for 2 valves per cylinder, granted these can be quite large which was one of the benefits of the original Hemi engines (as well as having better spark plug placement). The Chrysler Hemi head was an improvement over older cross flow heads.The 2 large valve setup works quite well for engines with forced induction, but better flow can be achieved on naturally asperaited engines with a multiple intake and exhaust valve setup which cannot be achieved with a Hemi. It might also be in regards to some of the emission, quench (need a higher octane to prevent pinging that other comparable engines), and swirl issues that arise from a Hemi head. If you are interested this is worth a quick read.
After dealing with related issues for determining what year a vehicle is the correct answer is actually the age of the VIN plate. I have been around older vehicles for years and that is what determines the age of the vehicle. There also becomes some question about older vehicles as the VIN plates were attached until the vehicle sold so the VIN may say it is a 1968 (when it was sold) but the vehicle may have actually been manufactured in 1967 and just sat a long time on the dealers lot until it was actually sold. If you have a vehicle that you restored but it doesn't have a VIN then it is treated as a kit car and you would need to go down to the DMV (DVS in Minnesota) and get a VIN assigned (my father had to do this with his 1936 International Harvester truck).
And that is where people get confused. This is really a separation of powers issue between the states and the feds. As the constitution silent on as it relates to the feds driving it is left up to the states (assuming there aren't any interstate commerce clause issues).
There are cars out there where you can get 150 more horsepower with a software mod.
You probably believe that by running 7 lbs of boost you will double or triple you horse power. Also I have this great device that you can attach to you fuel line that will align and energize the molecules of your gasoline to create a more efficient and complete combustion of your fuel and there by see power and fuel economy gains of up to 20% or more.
He should probably do what one of my buddies would do in college if we needed to sneak someone into the dining hall. My buddy would just walk past the person doing the checking who would immediately go running after him. The person chasing them would be yelling for him to stop but he would just run across the dining hall and out the first exit he came to. Granted doing this to the TSA would probably result in getting tazed into next week as well as the airport going into lock down for a few hours but a coordinated effort at a few airports would probably shutdown the air traffic system for the day.
I'd still feel the same about releasing the knowledge. Granted I would probably want to string the individuals who released the virus by their own entrails (this is one of my less creative ideas), or pick them off at 400+ meters with my deer rifle. Your argument seems specious at best, it is akin to asking if I would be mad at some car company if a drunk plowed into my family killing them.
Well the ground source heat pump will be going in when either the furnace or AC needs to be replaced instead of a preemptive replacement as either one has a substantial up front cost that I could put into a ground source heat pump instead. Both the AC and furnace are getting up there in age and will probably need to be replace. Add in the fact that I can't have the windows open in my house (my wife has really bad allergies) and thus the AC or furnace gets used every day and the payback time starts looking pretty good. For my size house and yard it looks like it would run about $17,000 to meet my needs and I wouldn't need an auxiliary heater or AC. I have thought about a solar water heater (one of my friends has one) but there are options to have a ground source heat pump that preheats the water for a hot water heater. I don't know if this would work for a tank-less one but it is some thing that I am considering and would need to look into some more.
Your parents sound like my father. His current house was built in 1927 and didn't have any insulation and the old interior plaster walls were in rough shape. After taking down the interior we saw just how bad it was as we could see light cracks from the outside sneaking in from the siding. I thought modern construction was cheap the outer walls on that house were siding, tar paper, wall studs, lath, then plaster on the inside. The siding was old aluminum siding that needed to be replaced as well. So over the course of the summer we replace the old siding, put in insulation, replaced the old windows, replace the plaster walls with sheet rock, and insulated the attic. While in there we redid the wiring and got rid of the cloth covered wire that was in pretty bad shape and put in 10 gauge all around. That was the only house were even after a few years the utilities were still cheaper than they were originally as the wind would just blow through that house when he first got it.
Sounds like what I have done and your results sound similar to mine as well. Next up on my list of home improvements are a ground source heat pump and tank-less water heater, but beyond that there isn't much more I could do that would make any sense. I could add more insulation in the attic but I couple of years ago I had a bunch more of insulation put in up there so adding more wouldn't be cost effective. My appliances are all only a 2-3 years old and I did buy the most efficient ones I could find and do try to keep them in an optimal state, like my chest freezer in the basement which is kept full.
For the majority who didn't read the article there is an interesting blurb:
Utilities already offer rebates on energy-saving products such as compact-fluorescent bulbs, or CFLs. In return for efforts to curb energy use, regulators allow utilities to raise their rates. The discounts are invisible to consumers - the utilities pay the stores directly.
My understanding from this is if you buy them it might end up a wash (you pay more per unit energy but consume less), but if you don't the power company really gets to put the screws to you (you pay more per unit energy and consume more energy) and you basically end up subsidizing your neighbor's purchase of a light bulb.
I would say if they worked with a dimmer switch I would consider them. I have a number of CFLs in my house but I also have a few lights that are controlled with dimmer switches and I haven't found anything other than incandescent bulbs to put in them. Maybe I am not looking at the right kind of store but I would be open to suggestions as to where I could find something to fill that use. Also I wonder how they hold up under abuse as I might consider putting one in my trouble light in the garage since I am always burning out the bulbs in that thing when I bump it.
My milk is rBGH free and costs about $2.50 a gallon. Also the area where I live isn't an area that receives dairy subsidies (I could be wrong but if we do it wouldn't be much given that I live only about 90 minutes from Eau Claire, WI). Even then there are times when it goes on sale (loss leader) when I can get it for $1.99 a gallon.
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To your last point:
Good. I want them to get a warrant each time they access data. It is called doing your job. I would like to to have remote root access to all the boxes I work with regularly because it would greatly speed up my daily activities but you know what it is a good thing that I can't remotely log into various SCADA systems remotely with root access.
To your first point:
You do realize that a warrant can list more than one thing they are after. Also warrants need to be fairly specific, would you like it if the police could get a warrant that listed items of interest as being everything in your house? That is basically what they have now with the phone company, except they don't even have to get a warrant.
I get rather tired of people claiming that Somalia should be a Libertarian paradise, Somalia is an anarchist paradise. Granted there seems to be a rather large number of anarchists masquerading as Libertarians but despite how Libertarians are portrayed a large portion agree that some government is needed but the amount that is the current US Federal Government.
A couple of years ago one of the columnists in the local paper here was waxing on about using on as a sports reporter in the early 80s. It really did revolutionize sports reporting and was better than having to lug around a typewriter and rush back. I would post his column but the stupid local paper puts old articles and columns behind a pay wall and you can't really search for the old ones all that well.
Now if you are gay they only care about keeping another guy from crawling up your ass.
I had to argue that once but I seem to have lucked out as the car that hit me was doing at least 55 mph and there was a witness who wasn't involved. My car was totaled, the trunk was basically shoved under the car, the frame bowed out and popped open the rear doors (they wouldn't close the last 6 inches) and my car got shoved into the car in front of me that I was waiting for to make their left turn. Their car didn't get it too bad, but unless I left 30 or 40 feet between me and the car in front of me I doubt that there would have been enough space. Also I was hit hard enough to brake the back of the drivers seat in my car (I am a big guy) but still had to deal with proving that I wasn't at fault. To make matters worse the vehicle that I was pushed into was a Minnesota State vehicle and the guy who hit me was flying higher than a kite.
If it is time for a new vehicle after only 140,000 or so miles and it hasn't been totaled in an accident you are doing it wrong. The vast majority of vehicles I have owned had higher miles on them than that when I got them. My current daily drive has 235,xxx miles on it and my Jeep has 371,xxx miles on it. Both run great get decent mileage (the Jeep gets good mileage for what it is and what I use it for) and are paid off. Insurance is cheap on them and I do most of the repairs and maintenance on them my self so the ongoing costs are minimal. My mom and step dad don't take care of their vehicles and they always need replacing every few years meanwhile my father actually takes good care of his stuff and it seems to last forever.
1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 257,xxx miles when it got junked because the oil pump failed on the highway and wrecked the motor
1985 BMW 528e 212,xxx miles when it got rear ended and totaled when stopped at a stop sign on a rural highway
1987 Buick Century 171,xxx miles when I got rid of it because it would have cost more in parts to fix the major fuel leak than it was worth
1996 BMW 318ti 179,xxx miles when it got rear ended, spun around into a fire hydrant and totaled.
1997 BMW 540i 235,xxx miles on it and it is still running great
1985 Ford Bronco II 252,xxx miles on it when one of the fuel pumps failed or the ignition control module failed, would have cost more to fix than it was worth.
1996 Jeep Cherokee 371,xxx miles on it and it is still running great
I very much doubt that a 1979 4x4 truck would be a death trap. You are talking about a body on frame setup and the frame on those older trucks is quite heavy. I have been in accidents where a body on frame vehicle was hit by a unibody vehicle and the unibody vehicle ends up much worse off.
This is why my next car is going to be my 68 MG midget. Well that is the excuse I give my wife.
Maybe it was in reference to the lack of valve options that Hemi engines have, mostly due to the head geometry. A true Hemi only allows for 2 valves per cylinder, granted these can be quite large which was one of the benefits of the original Hemi engines (as well as having better spark plug placement). The Chrysler Hemi head was an improvement over older cross flow heads.The 2 large valve setup works quite well for engines with forced induction, but better flow can be achieved on naturally asperaited engines with a multiple intake and exhaust valve setup which cannot be achieved with a Hemi. It might also be in regards to some of the emission, quench (need a higher octane to prevent pinging that other comparable engines), and swirl issues that arise from a Hemi head. If you are interested this is worth a quick read.
After dealing with related issues for determining what year a vehicle is the correct answer is actually the age of the VIN plate. I have been around older vehicles for years and that is what determines the age of the vehicle. There also becomes some question about older vehicles as the VIN plates were attached until the vehicle sold so the VIN may say it is a 1968 (when it was sold) but the vehicle may have actually been manufactured in 1967 and just sat a long time on the dealers lot until it was actually sold. If you have a vehicle that you restored but it doesn't have a VIN then it is treated as a kit car and you would need to go down to the DMV (DVS in Minnesota) and get a VIN assigned (my father had to do this with his 1936 International Harvester truck).
And that is where people get confused. This is really a separation of powers issue between the states and the feds. As the constitution silent on as it relates to the feds driving it is left up to the states (assuming there aren't any interstate commerce clause issues).
I have wondered if those things work on vehicles that are older and especially the ones with the positive ground.
There are cars out there where you can get 150 more horsepower with a software mod.
You probably believe that by running 7 lbs of boost you will double or triple you horse power. Also I have this great device that you can attach to you fuel line that will align and energize the molecules of your gasoline to create a more efficient and complete combustion of your fuel and there by see power and fuel economy gains of up to 20% or more.
Sounds like something Kevin Smith might be convinced to do.
I would say that a nude member of congress is truly something obscene and to be on the same side they should always be censored.
I like telling them the person they are calling for died. Their script doesn't have a response for that.
He should probably do what one of my buddies would do in college if we needed to sneak someone into the dining hall. My buddy would just walk past the person doing the checking who would immediately go running after him. The person chasing them would be yelling for him to stop but he would just run across the dining hall and out the first exit he came to. Granted doing this to the TSA would probably result in getting tazed into next week as well as the airport going into lock down for a few hours but a coordinated effort at a few airports would probably shutdown the air traffic system for the day.
And I don't have mod points today.
I'd still feel the same about releasing the knowledge. Granted I would probably want to string the individuals who released the virus by their own entrails (this is one of my less creative ideas), or pick them off at 400+ meters with my deer rifle. Your argument seems specious at best, it is akin to asking if I would be mad at some car company if a drunk plowed into my family killing them.
Yes I would. You could say the same about any technology, but I have more likely worries than some terrorist plot.
Well the ground source heat pump will be going in when either the furnace or AC needs to be replaced instead of a preemptive replacement as either one has a substantial up front cost that I could put into a ground source heat pump instead. Both the AC and furnace are getting up there in age and will probably need to be replace. Add in the fact that I can't have the windows open in my house (my wife has really bad allergies) and thus the AC or furnace gets used every day and the payback time starts looking pretty good. For my size house and yard it looks like it would run about $17,000 to meet my needs and I wouldn't need an auxiliary heater or AC. I have thought about a solar water heater (one of my friends has one) but there are options to have a ground source heat pump that preheats the water for a hot water heater. I don't know if this would work for a tank-less one but it is some thing that I am considering and would need to look into some more.
Your parents sound like my father. His current house was built in 1927 and didn't have any insulation and the old interior plaster walls were in rough shape. After taking down the interior we saw just how bad it was as we could see light cracks from the outside sneaking in from the siding. I thought modern construction was cheap the outer walls on that house were siding, tar paper, wall studs, lath, then plaster on the inside. The siding was old aluminum siding that needed to be replaced as well. So over the course of the summer we replace the old siding, put in insulation, replaced the old windows, replace the plaster walls with sheet rock, and insulated the attic. While in there we redid the wiring and got rid of the cloth covered wire that was in pretty bad shape and put in 10 gauge all around. That was the only house were even after a few years the utilities were still cheaper than they were originally as the wind would just blow through that house when he first got it.
Sounds like what I have done and your results sound similar to mine as well. Next up on my list of home improvements are a ground source heat pump and tank-less water heater, but beyond that there isn't much more I could do that would make any sense. I could add more insulation in the attic but I couple of years ago I had a bunch more of insulation put in up there so adding more wouldn't be cost effective. My appliances are all only a 2-3 years old and I did buy the most efficient ones I could find and do try to keep them in an optimal state, like my chest freezer in the basement which is kept full.
Utilities already offer rebates on energy-saving products such as compact-fluorescent bulbs, or CFLs. In return for efforts to curb energy use, regulators allow utilities to raise their rates. The discounts are invisible to consumers - the utilities pay the stores directly.
My understanding from this is if you buy them it might end up a wash (you pay more per unit energy but consume less), but if you don't the power company really gets to put the screws to you (you pay more per unit energy and consume more energy) and you basically end up subsidizing your neighbor's purchase of a light bulb.
I would say if they worked with a dimmer switch I would consider them. I have a number of CFLs in my house but I also have a few lights that are controlled with dimmer switches and I haven't found anything other than incandescent bulbs to put in them. Maybe I am not looking at the right kind of store but I would be open to suggestions as to where I could find something to fill that use. Also I wonder how they hold up under abuse as I might consider putting one in my trouble light in the garage since I am always burning out the bulbs in that thing when I bump it.
My milk is rBGH free and costs about $2.50 a gallon. Also the area where I live isn't an area that receives dairy subsidies (I could be wrong but if we do it wouldn't be much given that I live only about 90 minutes from Eau Claire, WI). Even then there are times when it goes on sale (loss leader) when I can get it for $1.99 a gallon.