It's a choice people make to dumb themselves down really. Think about it, everyone used to drive cars with a manual transmission and no synchronizers, manual steering and manual brakes. That meant rev matching every upshift and double clutching every downshift, parking in tight spaces meant always having the vehicle moving when turning the wheel, and of course braking makes for a thick right leg. If everyone could do it through the 50s until automatics and power steering became the norm (and into the 70s for power brakes), everyone can do it now.. much less handle a simple task like shifting a transfer case when road conditions warrant. Twin sticks aren't necessary for everyone, but a simple traditional 2hi/4hi/N/4lo shifter setup would work fine and in fact those types of cases are still put in vehicles today (when you don't order them with the troublesome electric shift setups).
Even with that being said, AWD simply offers inferior tranction and durability vs a traditional lcoked transfer case. A differentiating transfer case will differentiate, and slip, by its very nature and design. This means less traction.
As for transverse setups... I never really understood that either. OK you can get a little more usable room in the vehicle. You sacrifice ease of service and available space for things like the transmission. Why do FWD cars have so many problems with automatic transmissions? Because they're crammed together and have a minimal width to work in, so things like size of drums, bands, and number of clutch disks are reduced. The bean counters love this because they spend less building the parts and can get more money from repairs.
Many things in the Articles of Confederation were considered a "given" by the founders and there was much debate over how much of the seemingly obvious rights of man should be included. Freedom of travel was one that they never thought would be violated such as it is now, hence it only got brief and not explicit mention.
I do agree that what we have now is clearly not working. It is largely due to how perverted the law has become. The government ignores the laws, ignores the natural rights of man, even those explicitly defined in the Constitution. So many additional laws have been created, many of which are outright illegal. A large part of the solution is to eliminate laws. Eliminate taxes. Heck, eliminate the income tax as there's no need for it. It only serves government and their pals, and hurts all of us in many ways. Simply returning to a limited constitutional government would fix so many things that are wrong with the current shift towards a fascist government.
Except when the Feds ignore federal law... Such as the Fourth Amendment. Also loosely noted in Article IV and more explicitly defined in the Articles of Confederation is freedom of travel, one of our natural rights. This was assumed to be such a basic right that it didn't need to be explicitly mentioned in the Constitution. Shame for us, but doesn't really matter since the Feds ignore the Constitution anyway.
Not sure why this is modded down. AWD vehicles do not have any provision to put the transfer case in neutral, thus the front and rear axles will always be connected. AWD is just a transfer case that has some type of differential in it... Could be packs like in a limited slip axle, could be a traditional open differential. Regardless, don't tow front up rear down or vice versa. If you do, only do it for a very short distance a mile or two would concern me) and keep the speed very slow (15-20 MPH is pushing it, methinks)... And even then dpending on the type of differential in the transfer case I would probably expect some damage.
Regardless, I don't understand the point of AWD. I'll stick with my twin sticked gear driven transfer case. I can engage either front and rear axles independently and put both in neutral if I ever needed a tow. Much more versatile system than AWD.
Very true. I often have this problem on my motorcycle. I also have the same problem at some lights with my lifted truck, evn if I take care to position the frot axle directly over the loop.
For me, it's jumpy when set to GPU decoding for 1080 content. CPU is smooth as always but about 10%-20% higher CPU usage. 3.4 GHz AMD quad core and GeForceGTX 460.
Also, still can't select the s-video input from my ATI tuner/capture card.
Obama is going about this all wrong in a socialist way, by making our tax code bigger and more bloated. There should be no exceptions and conditions for a lower tax, just a flat out lower tax, Eliminate large portions of the tax code, make taxes more simple, and lower the tax rates on businesses. That's just the beginning of it, things like minimum wage should also be eliminated since the people it hurts most are the people such laws are intended to help Minimum wage harms young minorities the most
Anyhow, go out and buy a Master Lock, I know I will.
I suppose I am, since my focus is on socializing, playing cards or darts, or other social and interactive things. My observation is most people my age (mid-late 20s) have smartphones and will perpetually pull out their phone and ignore you when you're sitting down for dinner, in the middle of a conversation, or generally in situations where it's inappropriate or rude to be texting or facebooking.
Personally if I get a call while I'm sitting down eating dinner with friends I ignore it and I'll call back later when it's appropriate. Perhaps it's becasue I value genuine social interaction with friends. The people who are always doing something on their phone I find are typically always looking for the next best thing or are just waiting for their turn to talk, instead of actually listening and engaging in conversation. Those people certainly aren't very fun to be around, for me at least.
Not entirely, I had a 36" CRT with a similar setup until the TV broke. I got rid of cable after that and am fine with getting my "TV" for free from internet sources. Even hulu and others have far fewer commercials than pay TV. If I was rich, sure maybe I'd have a big flat screen and 300 channel package for some ungodly monthly fee, but I'm not rich and for the relatively small and somewaht seasonal use it gets I can't justify it when I can get just about everything I want for free online, without even pirating it.
I have a simple 4 year old flip phone on a non subsidized plan. It works for me, calls, voice mail and a few text every now and again. I also don't own a TV. I read news and watch it on youtube, listen to webcasts, hulu, etc. I just use my computer for such entertainment and am happy with my 23" 1080 screen. Costs too much for TV to be worth it, just to watch advertisements in the couple hours I might use it after work in the winter.
I'm sure this will get modded down, but I believe the only "fair and just" way to implement a tax is to divide the federal budget by the number of citizens. Everyone pays their fair share and there is no way to dodge it.
With current spending levels at $11,504.62. I'd wager most of us here pay more around that number or more... and we're not rich by any means, personally I feel quite poor. Now think about cuts to spending and bringing federal government back to a small, unbloated and Constitutional size and scope. I can identify $2.188 trillion in spending cuts, most of which is big dollar entitlements and redistribution of wealth but a large chunk of which is military spending used to wage unconstitutional wars and invade or occupy sovereign nations which have not made any aggression towards us. Figuring on those cuts, which would surely happen quicky given there are no tax loopholes under such a system, and everyone pays an equal and fair part of the tax burden... You annual tax bill would be only $4,417.88.
I'm sure there are other cuts to entitlements, redistribution of stolen money, military, and bloated government contracts that can be made which would further reduce that tax bill but have little or no effect on our day to day life, aside from us having more money to spend on things... Which is to say invest in our economy and create a demand for more jobs, goods and services. There are several variations that can be made on this tax scheme but it's the only way to ensure taxes are truly "fair and just".
Cubic dollars. While there are some benefits of having both it's absurdly complex and expensive. Compared to one or the other. The dollars per HP does not justify it in nearly all applications. Beyond that, in a truck application as we are discussing here, forced induction is not a great idea. I prefer not to worry about detonation when I hook 10k lbs on the back of my truck or travel to different parts of the country with different octane fuel available.
Well, yes and no. Not so much in the current usage of "defense" by our government. Defense needs to be strictly defense. Constitutionally declared wars only when provoked with military action. Endless unprovoked invasion and occupation of sovereign nations is not acceptable or even sustainable. That needs to end and military spending can certainly be reduced but not eliminated, at no loss to our safety should this country ever be attacked.
All those other unconstitutional measures you mentioned most certainly should be eliminated. Think of all the money that could be spent in our economy, creating demand for goods and services (i.e. jobs) if I got to keep that 25%-50% of my income government steals from me. Why instead of scraping by I'd feel rich and have all sorts of money to spend on luxuries and on services for things I dislike doing myself. That money would also be spent without the 20%+ overhead of government waste before the money they stole from you even goes to final destination of somebody who didn't earn it.
And now I'll wait to be modded down to troll/flamebait, simply for having the decency to say how I really feel... Which is to respect individual liberty and natural rights as outlined in the founding documents of this country.
What is failing in those master cylinders you used? A good quality rebuild kit should be fine. Cheapy Mexico rebuild units for $20 will not last as long as a brand new American made unit or a good original rebuilt with quality parts. Been there done that with other vehicles master cylinders. Regardless, if it is a fault with that particular design of MC, it's easy to convert to an '80-'86 style master which I know are reliable and last decades.
As for front rotors, I don't have a lot of experience with the early low pinion Dana 60s under these trucks but I do know rotors from any year Ford D60 are a bolt on swap. Regardless, since I use mine off road and it would be lifted I would be swapping the low pinion D60 for a '78-'79 high pinion D60. Either way, I could run good quality brake components through better factory parts or aftermarket.
Supercharger adn turbo on the same engine? Terrible idea. If you're suggesting this I doubt you've built many engines. When I say built I don't mean order some parts and slap them together, I mean designed, built, and blueprinter high performance engines. It involves a lot of math, measurements, theory, and experience to get it right.
The 351m/400 can be made into a good performer... It is after all more or less a Cleveland, but was encumbered by low compression and smog equipment. It is not the best HP/torque engine though. The 385 series engines get you the most HP/torque per dollar and the most room to grow.I didn't see any HP/torque numbers on that site but I did see $3500 into it.
My budget 460 build ($2000) for my lifted '86 which weighs in at 6000 lbs and tows ~6000 lbs puts out appox 425 HP and 550 ft/lbs as per Desktop Dyno. I've found on previous builds DD is very accurate to actual dyno numbers. Regardless, it's a simple build....030" over 460, stock truck crank and rods, KB137 hyper pistons, Ported E6TE heads (basically D3VE), ~9.7:1 compression, Comp 262/268 cam, 1.75" into 3" long tubes, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 750 DP. I forget my dynamic compression ratio but it's right on the ragged edge of detonation, especially comsidering the very mild cam. Polished chambers and singh grooves help to keep it pump gas friendly down to 91 octane. It tows great and gets 10.8 MPG towing with a total weight of 12k+ lbs at 70 MPH. Not bad for a lifted truck on 35" tires. You won't find a 351m or 400 pushing those torque numbers or those MPG numbers under the same conditions. The 385 series is simply a superior platform.
My standard of living is not defined by electronics, toys basically. I have a computer and internet access. Even that is not necessary but that's gives me basic access to the information and media I may want or find useful online. Just about anyone can afford a couple hundred for a computer, or a free/dirt cheap second hand machine... Along with a DSL or other $15/mo internet. A $450 tablet does not define standard of living.
This that define or may adversely affect my standard of living are food prices increasing, gas prices increasing, heating oil costs increasing, electric rates increasing, etc. These are the necessities and while I can cut back some in all of those areas, what I consume and waht it costs me will not change significantly. These things define how much I have left for fun things. The cost of those fun things, whether it be $450 for an iPad or $50 for a dart board doesn't matter much as if it's too expensive I'll spend that money on other fun things instead. Point being, those are all optional purchases with a monetary and quality of life affect I can control. The necessities I can't... If I don't eat, I die. If I don't put gas in the car, I lose my income. If I don't heat my home, my pipes burst. etc... Those are fundamental standard of living costs.
Good is actually one of the products I'm looking at. I don't believe it makes Android as secure as BB though. I get kickback from users, particularly the ones with older phones, about having to enter a password to unlock the phone. Sometimes the UI can be sluggish for a few seconds while unlocking/decrypting. The newer phones don't have this problem (9700/9900). One of my concerns with Android is the many different phones with differently modified OS by providers and not all support the same features, as I understand it.
Good point about '76-'77! I would be looking for a '76-'77 Supercab Ford 4x4 pickup. Trucks of that vintage were not nearly as bad as the cars. Regardless, it would likely have a 351m or 400, both undesirable smog engines. Whenever I find one with a solid body in need of minimal body work it'll be getting a fresh 545 cubic inch stroker which should push out about 1 HP per cube and a mountain of torque. Along with that it'll get a NV4500 5 speed manual for economical highway driving at 12+ MPG and of course a small lift and tires. If it ends up being a F-150 I'll swap out the half ton axles for a one ton setup... Sterling 10.25" full floater rear and a high pinion Dana 60 front. That would be my ideal daily driver. So no goofy smog era anything. Just a nice efficient and simple truck to pull my boat and drive through winter.
Basically the same truck I drive now except 10 years older. I would do a '60s pickup but they didn't make Supercabs until the 70s and even then you couldn't get a 4x4 Supercab until '76, then in '78 they changed the body style and again in 1980 to the style I have now. Frame widths were different in the 70s from 2wd to 4x4 so it's not simple to drop a 4x4 front axle under a 2wd frame due to the offset differential.
Interesting, but I've never owned a vehicle newer than 1986 and none with under 100,000 miles. The most miles I've had on a car was 302,000 on a '67 Ford when I sold it. Ran great, but the frame was rusting out and I didn't have the means to pull the body and repair the rusted frame at that time. Aside from that, rebuilding an engine or transmission is pretty cheap and easy. Same for suspension components. Body work really isn't that difficult or expensive either if you are patient about it. The reason most cars didn't last long back then is the bodies rust out in northern climates well before anything else needs to be repaired or rebuilt. New cars don't do much better. Look at Toyta's frame rot issue on brand new trucks. Or all the crusty vehicles out there around 10 years old from snow/salt climates. New stuff doesn't do much better... But the body work required to repair is more or less the same.
I am a weekend mechanic and frequently work with newer cars. Mechanically they are a nightmare. Take a lot more diagnostics time, more cost to repair/replace parts. Things just wear out quickly and you're always swapping out undersized parts like ball joints. In the past couple years I've seen dozens of new cars, only a couple years old, sitting in the middle of the road or crashed off the side of the road from separated ball joints. Compare the size of these components on a new Honda, Toyota, or even domestic econobox and then compare to a '60s Ford/GM/Mopar. They're tiny and not greasable... Hence accelerated failure rates of parts that should last around 100,000 miles.
We're talking about two totally seperate issues here. In the context of me, there is me porsonally vs. me professionally.
Personally all I need is a phone that will make phone calls and send the occasional SMS. I want it to work anywhere in the country, have a relatively low monthly cost, and a battery that will last 4+ days of my typical usage (which is fairly light). Those are my personal requirements. I would like things like maps/GPS, GPS speed readouts, web browser, etc... but for my own personal use I cannot justify the monthly cost or the risk of breaking an expensive phone it it gets wet/crushed/otherwise damaged. Whenever my dumb phone breaks I'll compare the cost of buying another dumb phone with long battery life vs the cost of an Android device (or whatever else is available at the time) and associated data plan costs. If the monthly cost drops significantly I'll get a smart phone, if not, I won't.
Professionally I need a phone that tightly integrates with Outlook/Exchange for email, calendar, contacts, etc., supports the handful of applications we use, offers security good enough for classified data, and a way to centrally manage that phone to keep administrative overhead reasonable and ensure compliance with required policies. Cost of the phone itself, the monthly costs, and the whiz-bang features nice to have but not critical to business are factors, but not the key deciding factors.
I'm dealing with a similar push to use personal iOS/Android devices here or be issued those devices instead of a BB. Some users want this, though as of yet have not articulated how BB is inadequate, except for one person who said the screen is too small to work with spreadsheets. This person has a company issued laptop as well. Regardless, this would involve a lot of work and overhead, and maintaining 2-3 different management systems and types of devices. My other concerns are security, since we work with data that must be secure or the government shuts us down. That is why I'm asking here for input on what ways iOS/Android are advantageous for business users and how they can be made secure. Sorry but playing games isn't reason enough for me to justify taking that risk. A bigger screen if BB is genuinely inadequate, perhaps. A better browser? Maybe, show me what your BBOS 7 device won't do so I understand.
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It's a choice people make to dumb themselves down really. Think about it, everyone used to drive cars with a manual transmission and no synchronizers, manual steering and manual brakes. That meant rev matching every upshift and double clutching every downshift, parking in tight spaces meant always having the vehicle moving when turning the wheel, and of course braking makes for a thick right leg. If everyone could do it through the 50s until automatics and power steering became the norm (and into the 70s for power brakes), everyone can do it now.. much less handle a simple task like shifting a transfer case when road conditions warrant. Twin sticks aren't necessary for everyone, but a simple traditional 2hi/4hi/N/4lo shifter setup would work fine and in fact those types of cases are still put in vehicles today (when you don't order them with the troublesome electric shift setups).
Even with that being said, AWD simply offers inferior tranction and durability vs a traditional lcoked transfer case. A differentiating transfer case will differentiate, and slip, by its very nature and design. This means less traction.
As for transverse setups... I never really understood that either. OK you can get a little more usable room in the vehicle. You sacrifice ease of service and available space for things like the transmission. Why do FWD cars have so many problems with automatic transmissions? Because they're crammed together and have a minimal width to work in, so things like size of drums, bands, and number of clutch disks are reduced. The bean counters love this because they spend less building the parts and can get more money from repairs.
Many things in the Articles of Confederation were considered a "given" by the founders and there was much debate over how much of the seemingly obvious rights of man should be included. Freedom of travel was one that they never thought would be violated such as it is now, hence it only got brief and not explicit mention.
I do agree that what we have now is clearly not working. It is largely due to how perverted the law has become. The government ignores the laws, ignores the natural rights of man, even those explicitly defined in the Constitution. So many additional laws have been created, many of which are outright illegal. A large part of the solution is to eliminate laws. Eliminate taxes. Heck, eliminate the income tax as there's no need for it. It only serves government and their pals, and hurts all of us in many ways. Simply returning to a limited constitutional government would fix so many things that are wrong with the current shift towards a fascist government.
Except when the Feds ignore federal law... Such as the Fourth Amendment. Also loosely noted in Article IV and more explicitly defined in the Articles of Confederation is freedom of travel, one of our natural rights. This was assumed to be such a basic right that it didn't need to be explicitly mentioned in the Constitution. Shame for us, but doesn't really matter since the Feds ignore the Constitution anyway.
Sounds like the US government.
Not sure why this is modded down. AWD vehicles do not have any provision to put the transfer case in neutral, thus the front and rear axles will always be connected. AWD is just a transfer case that has some type of differential in it... Could be packs like in a limited slip axle, could be a traditional open differential. Regardless, don't tow front up rear down or vice versa. If you do, only do it for a very short distance a mile or two would concern me) and keep the speed very slow (15-20 MPH is pushing it, methinks)... And even then dpending on the type of differential in the transfer case I would probably expect some damage.
Regardless, I don't understand the point of AWD. I'll stick with my twin sticked gear driven transfer case. I can engage either front and rear axles independently and put both in neutral if I ever needed a tow. Much more versatile system than AWD.
+5 informative ... if I had mod points
Very true. I often have this problem on my motorcycle. I also have the same problem at some lights with my lifted truck, evn if I take care to position the frot axle directly over the loop.
For me, it's jumpy when set to GPU decoding for 1080 content. CPU is smooth as always but about 10%-20% higher CPU usage. 3.4 GHz AMD quad core and GeForceGTX 460.
Also, still can't select the s-video input from my ATI tuner/capture card.
Stop inflating our currency! Inflation is government produced and is effectively a hidden tax on all of us.
I know this isn't tech gadgets, but some jobs are in fact coming back to America. Master Lock brings manufacturing Stateside
Obama is going about this all wrong in a socialist way, by making our tax code bigger and more bloated. There should be no exceptions and conditions for a lower tax, just a flat out lower tax, Eliminate large portions of the tax code, make taxes more simple, and lower the tax rates on businesses. That's just the beginning of it, things like minimum wage should also be eliminated since the people it hurts most are the people such laws are intended to help Minimum wage harms young minorities the most
Anyhow, go out and buy a Master Lock, I know I will.
I take the flamebait...
I suppose I am, since my focus is on socializing, playing cards or darts, or other social and interactive things. My observation is most people my age (mid-late 20s) have smartphones and will perpetually pull out their phone and ignore you when you're sitting down for dinner, in the middle of a conversation, or generally in situations where it's inappropriate or rude to be texting or facebooking.
Personally if I get a call while I'm sitting down eating dinner with friends I ignore it and I'll call back later when it's appropriate. Perhaps it's becasue I value genuine social interaction with friends. The people who are always doing something on their phone I find are typically always looking for the next best thing or are just waiting for their turn to talk, instead of actually listening and engaging in conversation. Those people certainly aren't very fun to be around, for me at least.
Not entirely, I had a 36" CRT with a similar setup until the TV broke. I got rid of cable after that and am fine with getting my "TV" for free from internet sources. Even hulu and others have far fewer commercials than pay TV. If I was rich, sure maybe I'd have a big flat screen and 300 channel package for some ungodly monthly fee, but I'm not rich and for the relatively small and somewaht seasonal use it gets I can't justify it when I can get just about everything I want for free online, without even pirating it.
I have a simple 4 year old flip phone on a non subsidized plan. It works for me, calls, voice mail and a few text every now and again. I also don't own a TV. I read news and watch it on youtube, listen to webcasts, hulu, etc. I just use my computer for such entertainment and am happy with my 23" 1080 screen. Costs too much for TV to be worth it, just to watch advertisements in the couple hours I might use it after work in the winter.
I'm sure this will get modded down, but I believe the only "fair and just" way to implement a tax is to divide the federal budget by the number of citizens. Everyone pays their fair share and there is no way to dodge it.
With current spending levels at $11,504.62. I'd wager most of us here pay more around that number or more... and we're not rich by any means, personally I feel quite poor. Now think about cuts to spending and bringing federal government back to a small, unbloated and Constitutional size and scope. I can identify $2.188 trillion in spending cuts, most of which is big dollar entitlements and redistribution of wealth but a large chunk of which is military spending used to wage unconstitutional wars and invade or occupy sovereign nations which have not made any aggression towards us. Figuring on those cuts, which would surely happen quicky given there are no tax loopholes under such a system, and everyone pays an equal and fair part of the tax burden... You annual tax bill would be only $4,417.88.
I'm sure there are other cuts to entitlements, redistribution of stolen money, military, and bloated government contracts that can be made which would further reduce that tax bill but have little or no effect on our day to day life, aside from us having more money to spend on things... Which is to say invest in our economy and create a demand for more jobs, goods and services. There are several variations that can be made on this tax scheme but it's the only way to ensure taxes are truly "fair and just".
Life is a sexually transmitted disease with a 100% fatality rate.
Cubic dollars. While there are some benefits of having both it's absurdly complex and expensive. Compared to one or the other. The dollars per HP does not justify it in nearly all applications. Beyond that, in a truck application as we are discussing here, forced induction is not a great idea. I prefer not to worry about detonation when I hook 10k lbs on the back of my truck or travel to different parts of the country with different octane fuel available.
Well, yes and no. Not so much in the current usage of "defense" by our government. Defense needs to be strictly defense. Constitutionally declared wars only when provoked with military action. Endless unprovoked invasion and occupation of sovereign nations is not acceptable or even sustainable. That needs to end and military spending can certainly be reduced but not eliminated, at no loss to our safety should this country ever be attacked.
All those other unconstitutional measures you mentioned most certainly should be eliminated. Think of all the money that could be spent in our economy, creating demand for goods and services (i.e. jobs) if I got to keep that 25%-50% of my income government steals from me. Why instead of scraping by I'd feel rich and have all sorts of money to spend on luxuries and on services for things I dislike doing myself. That money would also be spent without the 20%+ overhead of government waste before the money they stole from you even goes to final destination of somebody who didn't earn it.
And now I'll wait to be modded down to troll/flamebait, simply for having the decency to say how I really feel... Which is to respect individual liberty and natural rights as outlined in the founding documents of this country.
What is failing in those master cylinders you used? A good quality rebuild kit should be fine. Cheapy Mexico rebuild units for $20 will not last as long as a brand new American made unit or a good original rebuilt with quality parts. Been there done that with other vehicles master cylinders. Regardless, if it is a fault with that particular design of MC, it's easy to convert to an '80-'86 style master which I know are reliable and last decades.
As for front rotors, I don't have a lot of experience with the early low pinion Dana 60s under these trucks but I do know rotors from any year Ford D60 are a bolt on swap. Regardless, since I use mine off road and it would be lifted I would be swapping the low pinion D60 for a '78-'79 high pinion D60. Either way, I could run good quality brake components through better factory parts or aftermarket.
Supercharger adn turbo on the same engine? Terrible idea. If you're suggesting this I doubt you've built many engines. When I say built I don't mean order some parts and slap them together, I mean designed, built, and blueprinter high performance engines. It involves a lot of math, measurements, theory, and experience to get it right.
The 351m/400 can be made into a good performer... It is after all more or less a Cleveland, but was encumbered by low compression and smog equipment. It is not the best HP/torque engine though. The 385 series engines get you the most HP/torque per dollar and the most room to grow.I didn't see any HP/torque numbers on that site but I did see $3500 into it.
My budget 460 build ($2000) for my lifted '86 which weighs in at 6000 lbs and tows ~6000 lbs puts out appox 425 HP and 550 ft/lbs as per Desktop Dyno. I've found on previous builds DD is very accurate to actual dyno numbers. Regardless, it's a simple build... .030" over 460, stock truck crank and rods, KB137 hyper pistons, Ported E6TE heads (basically D3VE), ~9.7:1 compression, Comp 262/268 cam, 1.75" into 3" long tubes, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 750 DP. I forget my dynamic compression ratio but it's right on the ragged edge of detonation, especially comsidering the very mild cam. Polished chambers and singh grooves help to keep it pump gas friendly down to 91 octane. It tows great and gets 10.8 MPG towing with a total weight of 12k+ lbs at 70 MPH. Not bad for a lifted truck on 35" tires. You won't find a 351m or 400 pushing those torque numbers or those MPG numbers under the same conditions. The 385 series is simply a superior platform.
My standard of living is not defined by electronics, toys basically. I have a computer and internet access. Even that is not necessary but that's gives me basic access to the information and media I may want or find useful online. Just about anyone can afford a couple hundred for a computer, or a free/dirt cheap second hand machine... Along with a DSL or other $15/mo internet. A $450 tablet does not define standard of living.
This that define or may adversely affect my standard of living are food prices increasing, gas prices increasing, heating oil costs increasing, electric rates increasing, etc. These are the necessities and while I can cut back some in all of those areas, what I consume and waht it costs me will not change significantly. These things define how much I have left for fun things. The cost of those fun things, whether it be $450 for an iPad or $50 for a dart board doesn't matter much as if it's too expensive I'll spend that money on other fun things instead. Point being, those are all optional purchases with a monetary and quality of life affect I can control. The necessities I can't... If I don't eat, I die. If I don't put gas in the car, I lose my income. If I don't heat my home, my pipes burst. etc... Those are fundamental standard of living costs.
No, but it would be cool.
Baptise your browser!
Good is actually one of the products I'm looking at. I don't believe it makes Android as secure as BB though. I get kickback from users, particularly the ones with older phones, about having to enter a password to unlock the phone. Sometimes the UI can be sluggish for a few seconds while unlocking/decrypting. The newer phones don't have this problem (9700/9900). One of my concerns with Android is the many different phones with differently modified OS by providers and not all support the same features, as I understand it.
Good point about '76-'77! I would be looking for a '76-'77 Supercab Ford 4x4 pickup. Trucks of that vintage were not nearly as bad as the cars. Regardless, it would likely have a 351m or 400, both undesirable smog engines. Whenever I find one with a solid body in need of minimal body work it'll be getting a fresh 545 cubic inch stroker which should push out about 1 HP per cube and a mountain of torque. Along with that it'll get a NV4500 5 speed manual for economical highway driving at 12+ MPG and of course a small lift and tires. If it ends up being a F-150 I'll swap out the half ton axles for a one ton setup... Sterling 10.25" full floater rear and a high pinion Dana 60 front. That would be my ideal daily driver. So no goofy smog era anything. Just a nice efficient and simple truck to pull my boat and drive through winter.
Basically the same truck I drive now except 10 years older. I would do a '60s pickup but they didn't make Supercabs until the 70s and even then you couldn't get a 4x4 Supercab until '76, then in '78 they changed the body style and again in 1980 to the style I have now. Frame widths were different in the 70s from 2wd to 4x4 so it's not simple to drop a 4x4 front axle under a 2wd frame due to the offset differential.
Interesting, but I've never owned a vehicle newer than 1986 and none with under 100,000 miles. The most miles I've had on a car was 302,000 on a '67 Ford when I sold it. Ran great, but the frame was rusting out and I didn't have the means to pull the body and repair the rusted frame at that time. Aside from that, rebuilding an engine or transmission is pretty cheap and easy. Same for suspension components. Body work really isn't that difficult or expensive either if you are patient about it. The reason most cars didn't last long back then is the bodies rust out in northern climates well before anything else needs to be repaired or rebuilt. New cars don't do much better. Look at Toyta's frame rot issue on brand new trucks. Or all the crusty vehicles out there around 10 years old from snow/salt climates. New stuff doesn't do much better... But the body work required to repair is more or less the same.
I am a weekend mechanic and frequently work with newer cars. Mechanically they are a nightmare. Take a lot more diagnostics time, more cost to repair/replace parts. Things just wear out quickly and you're always swapping out undersized parts like ball joints. In the past couple years I've seen dozens of new cars, only a couple years old, sitting in the middle of the road or crashed off the side of the road from separated ball joints. Compare the size of these components on a new Honda, Toyota, or even domestic econobox and then compare to a '60s Ford/GM/Mopar. They're tiny and not greasable... Hence accelerated failure rates of parts that should last around 100,000 miles.
We're talking about two totally seperate issues here. In the context of me, there is me porsonally vs. me professionally.
Personally all I need is a phone that will make phone calls and send the occasional SMS. I want it to work anywhere in the country, have a relatively low monthly cost, and a battery that will last 4+ days of my typical usage (which is fairly light). Those are my personal requirements. I would like things like maps/GPS, GPS speed readouts, web browser, etc... but for my own personal use I cannot justify the monthly cost or the risk of breaking an expensive phone it it gets wet/crushed/otherwise damaged. Whenever my dumb phone breaks I'll compare the cost of buying another dumb phone with long battery life vs the cost of an Android device (or whatever else is available at the time) and associated data plan costs. If the monthly cost drops significantly I'll get a smart phone, if not, I won't.
Professionally I need a phone that tightly integrates with Outlook/Exchange for email, calendar, contacts, etc., supports the handful of applications we use, offers security good enough for classified data, and a way to centrally manage that phone to keep administrative overhead reasonable and ensure compliance with required policies. Cost of the phone itself, the monthly costs, and the whiz-bang features nice to have but not critical to business are factors, but not the key deciding factors.
I'm dealing with a similar push to use personal iOS/Android devices here or be issued those devices instead of a BB. Some users want this, though as of yet have not articulated how BB is inadequate, except for one person who said the screen is too small to work with spreadsheets. This person has a company issued laptop as well. Regardless, this would involve a lot of work and overhead, and maintaining 2-3 different management systems and types of devices. My other concerns are security, since we work with data that must be secure or the government shuts us down. That is why I'm asking here for input on what ways iOS/Android are advantageous for business users and how they can be made secure. Sorry but playing games isn't reason enough for me to justify taking that risk. A bigger screen if BB is genuinely inadequate, perhaps. A better browser? Maybe, show me what your BBOS 7 device won't do so I understand.