LEDs don't have fumes. The chip may have gallium arsenide, but you'd have to grind it into powder, but it's still chemically locked up in a compound. Like the chlorine in salt.
It depends how well they were designed, manufactured, installed, and mistreated. If it uses electrolytic caps, they will dry out. If they are used in an enclosed space, they will run hot and degrade quicker, or the electronics will fry. If they get a big surge, it can wipe out all those tiny junctions.
Those "20,000 hours" or "20 years" claims will come back to bite manufacturers. That's a theoretical maximum. If the wire bonding isn't perfect, the thermal transfer compound isn't exactly right, etc., you get less than that. I've put my hand on some cheap LED bulb heat sinks and they were HOT. Temperature derating is a bitch.
I just got a reel today off eBay. $18 for 300 (5 meter reel) of the newer 5630 higher-efficiency. (You really have to scrutinize the lumens per watt.) I got cool white because after getting 4 other small LED lights, turns out we prefer the "sunlight" versus the yellow light of "warm". It's different, for sure: you've spent all your life under blue-deprived lamps. Kind of like running Linux after years of Windows. I figure that for about 20 bucks I can make some kitchen under-cabinet lights. I don't know why people sell the same LED reels for hundreds of dollars, or LED lights for similar ridiculous prices.
I have a 12 volt power supply in the basement that runs my TV amplifier, and will run my under-cabinet LEDs. Might also run my cable modem and router someday. I might add a battery so that when the power goes out I can have lights and surf the web.
A larger cost saving will be when lights that are always on, are made "smart" with motion sensors. You don't want to switch mercury vapor or sodium lights on and off a lot, but LEDs love it.
I'm still using the same bottle I got about....ten? years ago. Put a few drops on the clean windscreen, rub it all over, lasts for a couple months at least. You only need a molecule thick layer.
Of course the kind they sell in washer bottles is highly diluted.
I have a 7 inch Nextbook, $70 from Walmart, and it fits in my pants pocket and useable for email, web browsing and such. Beats lugging around a laptop, most of the time. Seldom do I want to edit videos sitting in an airport.
If it starts to run down the battery, get a bigger supply. The power converter inside the PC should be designed to take whatever the brick puts out, and charge the battery correctly and run the machine. This is a simple power converter circuit. Some machines will only need a wimpy brick, some will need a honker to avoid running down the battery while operating. There is NO reason to have 39 different freaking power plugs and voltages.
I'm an MSEE-toting high voltage engineer, but back when I tested circuit breakers at Bulldog Electric, they had to hold at 110%, and trip at 135% over some seconds. That was a thermal trip, which heated up the breaker until it decided there was an overload; the biger the overload, the shorter the trip time. During a short circuit the magnetic trip would open immediately at a large amperage.
I went to Staples to look at an HP Chromebook on Cyber Monday, and they were all gone in the first hour. Plenty of choice between Windows machines, though. Nope, my next PC will run Linux, sorry, I said. Salesgeek then brightened up, said he was a recent Ubuntu convert at home...
A few days ago I found a hand-held tesla coil in my junk box (I used to use it for finding tiny leaks in glass, uh, "things"). I brought it upstairs to show my son, turmed it on and showed him a 2 inch arc from the "nose" over to an outlet cover. My wife's brand new LED floor lamp was plugged in, and it went right out. There were some anxious seconds before it turned on again and worked normally.
Semiconductors are getting smaller and faster all the time, and there's a lot of MOSFETs used where in the olden days there were big bipolars with large junction capacitance. Stuff is UL tested for emissions, but not susceptibility. Cars, though, do have RF susceptibility standards.
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LEDs don't have fumes. The chip may have gallium arsenide, but you'd have to grind it into powder, but it's still chemically locked up in a compound. Like the chlorine in salt.
Most electronics is lead-free today.
Does the UC professor also advocate against DHMO?
Worked well for Microsoft.
You greatly overestimate the intelligence of the average 'murican.
It depends how well they were designed, manufactured, installed, and mistreated. If it uses electrolytic caps, they will dry out. If they are used in an enclosed space, they will run hot and degrade quicker, or the electronics will fry. If they get a big surge, it can wipe out all those tiny junctions.
Those "20,000 hours" or "20 years" claims will come back to bite manufacturers. That's a theoretical maximum. If the wire bonding isn't perfect, the thermal transfer compound isn't exactly right, etc., you get less than that. I've put my hand on some cheap LED bulb heat sinks and they were HOT. Temperature derating is a bitch.
I just got a reel today off eBay. $18 for 300 (5 meter reel) of the newer 5630 higher-efficiency. (You really have to scrutinize the lumens per watt.) I got cool white because after getting 4 other small LED lights, turns out we prefer the "sunlight" versus the yellow light of "warm". It's different, for sure: you've spent all your life under blue-deprived lamps. Kind of like running Linux after years of Windows. I figure that for about 20 bucks I can make some kitchen under-cabinet lights. I don't know why people sell the same LED reels for hundreds of dollars, or LED lights for similar ridiculous prices.
I have a 12 volt power supply in the basement that runs my TV amplifier, and will run my under-cabinet LEDs. Might also run my cable modem and router someday. I might add a battery so that when the power goes out I can have lights and surf the web.
A larger cost saving will be when lights that are always on, are made "smart" with motion sensors. You don't want to switch mercury vapor or sodium lights on and off a lot, but LEDs love it.
This is called "Fighting the last war", and military leaders are aware of it, yet they all still practice it to some degree.
The rest of us will spend the same to put Mint on a wiped Windoze machine, and burn in hell.
I'm still using the same bottle I got about....ten? years ago. Put a few drops on the clean windscreen, rub it all over, lasts for a couple months at least. You only need a molecule thick layer.
Of course the kind they sell in washer bottles is highly diluted.
I have a 7 inch Nextbook, $70 from Walmart, and it fits in my pants pocket and useable for email, web browsing and such. Beats lugging around a laptop, most of the time. Seldom do I want to edit videos sitting in an airport.
I just crossed Dell off my list.
If it starts to run down the battery, get a bigger supply. The power converter inside the PC should be designed to take whatever the brick puts out, and charge the battery correctly and run the machine. This is a simple power converter circuit. Some machines will only need a wimpy brick, some will need a honker to avoid running down the battery while operating. There is NO reason to have 39 different freaking power plugs and voltages.
Use spinach instead. Tastes the same (especially drowned in dressing), is WAY better for you.
As long as you get your B complex vitamins from beer.
So it was Google, not China?
Yes, look how it destroyed Google.
The other 300 distros aren't enough for you to try??
Yes, but there's no difference between Cadillac parts and Chevy parts, except the price.
There's your problem right there, Vern.
That's what she said.
Exactly. People got wise with this "Intel giveth, and Microsoft taketh away" bullshit of planned obsolescence.
Fortunately, mine are alive and well, running Mint, SUSE, Ubuntu, and Puppy.
They ought to put in a 1 amp breaker then. And, a sign warning moochers.
I'm an MSEE-toting high voltage engineer, but back when I tested circuit breakers at Bulldog Electric, they had to hold at 110%, and trip at 135% over some seconds. That was a thermal trip, which heated up the breaker until it decided there was an overload; the biger the overload, the shorter the trip time. During a short circuit the magnetic trip would open immediately at a large amperage.
I went to Staples to look at an HP Chromebook on Cyber Monday, and they were all gone in the first hour. Plenty of choice between Windows machines, though. Nope, my next PC will run Linux, sorry, I said. Salesgeek then brightened up, said he was a recent Ubuntu convert at home...
A few days ago I found a hand-held tesla coil in my junk box (I used to use it for finding tiny leaks in glass, uh, "things"). I brought it upstairs to show my son, turmed it on and showed him a 2 inch arc from the "nose" over to an outlet cover. My wife's brand new LED floor lamp was plugged in, and it went right out. There were some anxious seconds before it turned on again and worked normally.
Semiconductors are getting smaller and faster all the time, and there's a lot of MOSFETs used where in the olden days there were big bipolars with large junction capacitance. Stuff is UL tested for emissions, but not susceptibility. Cars, though, do have RF susceptibility standards.
"Ain't No UFO Gonna Stop Mah Diesel" was an actual country song.