Just printed the sheet. Printer can't handle 12lpm. Can't handle any slant targets. Can see the vertical swipe target but using a microdensitometer note that the line spacing is of poor quality.
I guess I should junk my 1000$ Lexmark and find something better.
We bought our own charts. Oddly enough, We're located in Rochester, NY too. At least those of us not outsourced to china (which was me, too).
Seriously tho, this target is worthless unless you print it on a LARGE piece of paper with an ultra high quality laserjet printer. Ideally you'd want a real laser, not the cheap LED ones, and furthermore you'd need at least 1200 DPI.
Inkjet? Forget it. Dot placement is poor quality- your lines will get fuzzy. So is that aliasing or is that bad printer alignment.
Remember your printer is being sold to make you buy ink. It is NOT a highquality piece of equipment (some high end epsons do don't count;P)
Great for play. Buy the real thing (chrome on glass) if you're serious. I'm surprised CMU doesn't have at least 3 of these- I can walk into any lab and find at least 1.
The tires don't explode, they just go flat. At some point tho the rubber will no longer carry the car forward and you'll be spinning the rims on pavement (loads of sparks, VERY fun if they're aluminum or magnesium). But at that point there is no traction available. Throwing the guy into a dirt road or gulley would just spin the wheels, allowing for a safe egress from the vehicle.
Obviously a better solutlion might have been to jack his car up and let the wheels spin free, then stop him. But I ca'nt think of any easy way of doing that quickly:(
... and the engine is redlined. You downshift to 4th or 3rd. What's going to happen? I believe it will sound something like 'whump' followed by a series of metallic items exiting the top of your hood. I could be wrong, however, as I've never downshifted while doing 6000 RPM (or for that matter, dropping the clutch while at 6000 RPM - I'm too chicken)
Sad to say I was sitting there this morning completely unable to type any simple words or sentences. I blame the benadryl. 2 posters up caught what I was trying to say- you've got residual braking power left before you are mechanically pumping fluid to the brakes.
Shutting off the engine at speed isn't so big a deal, unless you've got a big block thats going to lock those rear tires up;P Thats all the point I was trying to make. Shut the engine off. When it comes back on, assuming it's not a hardware fault or the pedal is 'stuck' with that snapple bottle that was rolling around...
Come to think of it they should have used spike strips on the guy.
Power steering and braking is provided by a cylinder of fluid. You've got enough for probably 4 or 5 hard 'full brake' depressions and at least 3 or 4 good wheel cranks.
Shutting down the car forces it into a 'reboot' of the system. Shifting it into neutral while the engine is at full power is a good way to blow it.
Downshifting the car is fine, but all thats going to do is blow out your clutch or tranny- remember,if the pedal is fully depressed it's probably redlined at 6500 RPM.
So first, in order-
Hit the breaks. (failing that) shift to neutral/ kill the engine / restart (if the car immediately revs the engine back up then...) kill the engine / SLOWLY depress the break to come to a stop.
So yes, a mechanical switch is needed- it obviously would not have helped the driver in this situation (I guess; I don't have nor have I used a magnetic key for ignition).
if all, absolutely all, fails, hope to god you have a good drive somewhere in front of you that is willing to match speeds and sacrifice his rear end (semis work great). Using the back end of the vehicle, his braking power should probably be enough to bring your racing car in, and shifting into neutral would cap it. Pop the hood and kill the battery. (probably would need bolt cutters from the police).
So in conclusion, you've plenty of power / pressure in your breaks after you kill the engine. Test it some day- turn the car off, in neutral let the car roll, feel the pedal become soft... after about the 4th 'pump' you're down to your own mechanical leverage 'pumping' the fluid into the brake cylinders.... so no more 'assist'.
Photo active chemical sites are generally created from a minimum of 4 photons up to ? number. As for quantitization, any number of techniques exist in the film world for causing only partial development of the grains- that means that instead of your static 1 and 0, you can get.5, 3/4, etc. Frankly any number in between.
Sadly a film grain escapes my brain at this late hour, but I've used the SEMs to image custom made crystals that were about 5nm... but really, we're talking about different things.
I'm talking about images made on high quality 35mm film and scanned in the thin side at 4K by 6K. In fact I've scanned 35mm chromes to 8k lpi and had them blown up to 40x60. Said image downsampled does not sufficiently retain the subtle details and shadings present in the higher resolution scans.
Resizing the lower resolution up to the high one exhibits the same failures- not enough details.
Yes you can use a crappy ass lense and 1600 speed film and find out that, whoa and behold, there is no detail to be gained at 4K resolution. But trade that for a nice rodenstock and some 25 speed Kodachrome and your eyes are in for a candy appled treat.
When I worked for Kodak I saw the towers they used for 'screening' new technology. A 4k scan is nothing- the HR500 uses a 4K scan in the vertical direction of a 35mm frame... and we were only limited by the size of the available sensor at the time it was integrated (about 7 years ago)
So... 12 bit REAL ADC on a 4K vertical Linear scan (3 channel + IR dust removal)...
As for information differences in a 2k or 4k scan, I guess that really comes down to your perception of quality. I know mine is alot higher than yours;)
Had this ability for corporate accounts for some times. And the problems have never been addressed, some of which:
1) Long dial in times result in the 2nd password changing before completion, thus requiring a 2nd attempt (or a 9th, depending on how pathetic the phone service is) 2) Annoying easily lost dongle on your keychain that says "RSA- STEAL ME" in big bold letters....
So yeah, I'm thinking it's a great step. But not for AOL.
grins. Yeah someone picked a different color coordinate than I would have. The 'redder' it is, the worse the power consumption because some of that falls off into the IR region....
Don't get me wrong- there are beautiful reds out there. That was a design consideration.
Of course that means you need specialized EVERYTHING for displaying a photo, down to how the image is scanned (high end scanners can do *real* 12 and 14 bit imaging... don't believe that 16bit crap- it's usually 'marketing bits' for the last couple.
So if you have a dedicated viewing system that can display an image appropriately at the bit depth (which is a bit of an oxymoron when you're talking about analog systems) you've got an easy 13 bit display.
And want to know something really interesting about that? The image looks lifelike. As in, you could almost reach in and touch it.
The Hole Transport Layer is usually the weak link in the OLED device. This material (hah) transports holes, if you like to think of it that way) between the substrate and the luminous amount.
I believe kodak has HT1 and HT2... most companies have differing versions of their HTs, some of them are optimized with their own dopants (funny that).
Itumitzu (sp?) had some nice ones, but it's been a long while since I've worked on anything like that and the market changes fast. I can't even recall all the big players anymore:(
Yeah Kodak introduced an OLED screen on the back of a camera. It was only available overseas (growl) and you couldn't get it here in the states.
I know a few Kodak employees that managed to get one, but they had contacts in Europe management that requested them. God they were great to look at- you could show a full semicircle the photo you just took and EVERYONE could see the image clearly.
I think Kodak was also incorporating them into some pro level gear, but I don't remember much on that.
OLEDs are made by sublimation, currently- earlier ones used a spin coat (easy) to make small panels. New panels are on the order of LCD raw stocks. Since you have to sublime chemicals (which could be as low as 150C to as high as 450C) the 'mask' which prevents the chemical from contacting where it shouldn't usually warps.
Until this problem is solved (or they go to a rotary repeatable drum method) they'll never get the panels much larger then what theyre at.
And yes, making 1 off panels are easy... but it'll cost 30K$:P
The big problem with OLEDs is you need some way to make them dark. Really- the ITO substrate is highly reflective, and given the nature of the panel that means your 'off' colour is actually your ambient light level reflected right back at you.
Which lowers the effective contrast to about 30:1.
When you add a polarizer, you can get up to about 250:1. Crank the driving current from.5ma to 1ma and you can get your 1000:1 but at the cost of lifetime (chemical migration, etc).
So yes, you don't particularly need to 'filter' the light, but some modern OLED designs still do... and since I don't know what I can and can't say I won't say anything:)
(used to work on them till they laid me off... bastards)
It's currently available on LCD from IBM. Can't remember the panel cost but it's up there. 200 PPI is about 12 cycles/degree, which isn't very good for detecting stuff.
I've seen OLEDs made to high resolutions in test fabs but the biggest issue is putting the chemicals down- oddly enough they can't figure out how to etch organics as easily as silicon:P
Millions has been poured into research on making those chemicals in such manners that no way mother nature couldve come up with them.
In fact, she'd have to be as high as a kite to come up with some of the formulations I've seen. And yes, before being laid off I worked on OLED chemicals so I'm fairly knowledgeable about both their manufacture and their design.
Although I'm sure you didn't mean it this way, but did you really interpret 'organic' to mean 'natural' ??? Because if you did... well, I'll be nice it's hump day.
Of course you need a good probe to know read the CRT- and that means something like the SLS9400, which retailed around 5K at last recall. And you can't ever shut the monitor off, it has to be on ALL the time.
And of course you need a specialized interface for Windows, because windows simply chokes on anything other than 8 bit. Certain cards, like the Dome boards (10 bit BW) are great. Others actually have internal 10 bit ramdacs but don't allow driver access to them. Such a pity.
The underlying subsystem is broken for windows which will limit everyone to 8 bits for years to come.
Never mind that CRT manufactures are calling daily to say they're discontinuing this model, that model... sigh.
(and you need 8 bit to 10 bit internal to avoid banding/quantitizaiton errors after calibrating...)
That's all I'm going to say. I've worked with all the solvents you've mentioned, in larger quantities than any human being should rightly come in contact with (chemicals plant) and I've got to tell you: They All Suck.
I lost a gf because I was so irritatable after being exposed to IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol) that I simply couldn't stand to see her. I'd come home, she'd be on the couch, have dinner ready, wearing something provocative... and the only thing that would pop into my head was "God damnit she's here again".
CNS symptoms are nasty for solvent exposure to IPA. I can't even imagine what would have happend if, as you suggest, I had drunk it.
Once I got laid off from that job and no longer was exposed to the fumes, my personality came back to normal. The ex-gf and I are still friends, but she's still doesn't believe me entirely that it was the fumes (tho she's comin around now and then).
Stay away from that crap and remember: Even Alcohols good, Odd Alcohols Kill.
Now what happens when said unit is damaged? One of the first things to go on a laptop is the shielding around the units- especially if they've been repaired. A bad solder joint from the factory or, even worse, a home repair where the user said "Screw it I don't need to put the RF shielding back in place".
Suddenly your non-leaky laptop is now radiating RF in all directions because it's missing the copper mesh that was removed!
Tape cassette, well... yeah thats a hard sell to produce RF. In fact I'd say modern units produce more RF given the more highly compact nature and the more processing performed. Pity I don't actually own a cassette player so that I could have it's RF measured.
And you are 100% correct that being alert during takeoff/landing is the most important reason for prohibiting anything other than staring ahead.
I mean, really- I honestly believed that huge inverter in your laptop that runs the backlight at high voltage and high frequencies might possibly induce a current in an improperly shielded or frayed control wire.
Or that a spinning motor induces current in wires around it.
Or that, since nothing has ever gone wrong before nothing can go wrong.
It's so reassuring that you believe its just a bunch of bull they feed you to keep you pacified and under control. Thank god you can gamble with my life- I don't take enough risks driving down the street with all the morons that have licenses out of ceral boxes.
But I know nothing you do would ever cause a plane to experience instrumentation malfunction since, of course, you believe it so strongly.
Any chance you'll post your name, address, and social, so we can get you added to the do not fly list? Fucking twit. Put your cellphone on TDMA and hold it near a landline reciever and dial out on the cell. Induced pickup. Stop gambling with other peoples lives.
We lost power last winter around 1100pm one evening. I went outside to survey the damage and, for a brief moment, I could have sworn I was watching a fire lick at the sky- the normally pitch black sky was 'orange' and flickering, just as if a huge fire was a few doors down.
Then it hit me- I was watching the death throes of the power grid as all the street sodium vapour lamps attempted to stay on... and as they cut out the sky was left it's natural, black look.
Oh, and this image is WAY old. I've seen 20x60's for some time around work, I'd say for at least a year.
I have a mole on my arm that reads "STAB HERE FOR VEIN". Seriously. Nice and well placed, all they have to do is come close and they'll get a perfect stick.
So this nurse in Indiana screws it up. She stabs THRU the vein. Blood sprays all over the tube. She gets another tube, stabs, misses, sprays again.
after the 5th stick I'm pale white and about to pass out... I get up to leave, and this old, black nurse comes in and says "Honey you sit yourself right down, i'll get it and you won't even know".
I raise my arm to protest, she grabs it and sticks it in one smooth motion, so smooth I never felt the needle.
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Just printed the sheet. Printer can't handle 12lpm. Can't handle any slant targets. Can see the vertical swipe target but using a microdensitometer note that the line spacing is of poor quality.
I guess I should junk my 1000$ Lexmark and find something better.
We bought our own charts. Oddly enough, We're located in Rochester, NY too. At least those of us not outsourced to china (which was me, too).
Seriously tho, this target is worthless unless you print it on a LARGE piece of paper with an ultra high quality laserjet printer. Ideally you'd want a real laser, not the cheap LED ones, and furthermore you'd need at least 1200 DPI.
Inkjet? Forget it. Dot placement is poor quality- your lines will get fuzzy. So is that aliasing or is that bad printer alignment.
Remember your printer is being sold to make you buy ink. It is NOT a highquality piece of equipment (some high end epsons do don't count;P)
Great for play. Buy the real thing (chrome on glass) if you're serious. I'm surprised CMU doesn't have at least 3 of these- I can walk into any lab and find at least 1.
Give or take. feet per second .... point being rims don't accelerate the car any ;)
;)
(but they sure do make good sparklers)
Part of me still thinks it's a bs stunt
The tires don't explode, they just go flat. At some point tho the rubber will no longer carry the car forward and you'll be spinning the rims on pavement (loads of sparks, VERY fun if they're aluminum or magnesium). But at that point there is no traction available. Throwing the guy into a dirt road or gulley would just spin the wheels, allowing for a safe egress from the vehicle.
:(
Obviously a better solutlion might have been to jack his car up and let the wheels spin free, then stop him. But I ca'nt think of any easy way of doing that quickly
... and the engine is redlined. You downshift to 4th or 3rd. What's going to happen? I believe it will sound something like 'whump' followed by a series of metallic items exiting the top of your hood. I could be wrong, however, as I've never downshifted while doing 6000 RPM (or for that matter, dropping the clutch while at 6000 RPM - I'm too chicken)
;P Thats all the point I was trying to make. Shut the engine off. When it comes back on, assuming it's not a hardware fault or the pedal is 'stuck' with that snapple bottle that was rolling around...
Sad to say I was sitting there this morning completely unable to type any simple words or sentences. I blame the benadryl. 2 posters up caught what I was trying to say- you've got residual braking power left before you are mechanically pumping fluid to the brakes.
Shutting off the engine at speed isn't so big a deal, unless you've got a big block thats going to lock those rear tires up
Come to think of it they should have used spike strips on the guy.
Power steering and braking is provided by a cylinder of fluid. You've got enough for probably 4 or 5 hard 'full brake' depressions and at least 3 or 4 good wheel cranks.
Shutting down the car forces it into a 'reboot' of the system. Shifting it into neutral while the engine is at full power is a good way to blow it.
Downshifting the car is fine, but all thats going to do is blow out your clutch or tranny- remember,if the pedal is fully depressed it's probably redlined at 6500 RPM.
So first, in order-
Hit the breaks.
(failing that)
shift to neutral/ kill the engine / restart
(if the car immediately revs the engine back up then...)
kill the engine / SLOWLY depress the break to come to a stop.
So yes, a mechanical switch is needed- it obviously would not have helped the driver in this situation (I guess; I don't have nor have I used a magnetic key for ignition).
if all, absolutely all, fails, hope to god you have a good drive somewhere in front of you that is willing to match speeds and sacrifice his rear end (semis work great). Using the back end of the vehicle, his braking power should probably be enough to bring your racing car in, and shifting into neutral would cap it. Pop the hood and kill the battery. (probably would need bolt cutters from the police).
So in conclusion, you've plenty of power / pressure in your breaks after you kill the engine. Test it some day- turn the car off, in neutral let the car roll, feel the pedal become soft... after about the 4th 'pump' you're down to your own mechanical leverage 'pumping' the fluid into the brake cylinders.... so no more 'assist'.
Photo active chemical sites are generally created from a minimum of 4 photons up to ? number. As for quantitization, any number of techniques exist in the film world for causing only partial development of the grains- that means that instead of your static 1 and 0, you can get .5, 3/4, etc. Frankly any number in between.
Sadly a film grain escapes my brain at this late hour, but I've used the SEMs to image custom made crystals that were about 5nm... but really, we're talking about different things.
I'm talking about images made on high quality 35mm film and scanned in the thin side at 4K by 6K. In fact I've scanned 35mm chromes to 8k lpi and had them blown up to 40x60. Said image downsampled does not sufficiently retain the subtle details and shadings present in the higher resolution scans.
Resizing the lower resolution up to the high one exhibits the same failures- not enough details.
Yes you can use a crappy ass lense and 1600 speed film and find out that, whoa and behold, there is no detail to be gained at 4K resolution. But trade that for a nice rodenstock and some 25 speed Kodachrome and your eyes are in for a candy appled treat.
When I worked for Kodak I saw the towers they used for 'screening' new technology. A 4k scan is nothing- the HR500 uses a 4K scan in the vertical direction of a 35mm frame... and we were only limited by the size of the available sensor at the time it was integrated (about 7 years ago)
;)
So... 12 bit REAL ADC on a 4K vertical Linear scan (3 channel + IR dust removal)...
As for information differences in a 2k or 4k scan, I guess that really comes down to your perception of quality. I know mine is alot higher than yours
(yes I have a 50" wide print by 12 foot long)
Had this ability for corporate accounts for some times. And the problems have never been addressed, some of which:
...
1) Long dial in times result in the 2nd password changing before completion, thus requiring a 2nd attempt (or a 9th, depending on how pathetic the phone service is)
2) Annoying easily lost dongle on your keychain that says "RSA- STEAL ME" in big bold letters.
So yeah, I'm thinking it's a great step. But not for AOL.
Because I'm not looking.
Yep. And thats exactly *why* it's not available.
Heck, film is simple, right? it's just 35 layers in less than the thickness of a human hair..
grins. Yeah someone picked a different color coordinate than I would have. The 'redder' it is, the worse the power consumption because some of that falls off into the IR region....
Don't get me wrong- there are beautiful reds out there. That was a design consideration.
you can get as high as 14 bit colour.
Of course that means you need specialized EVERYTHING for displaying a photo, down to how the image is scanned (high end scanners can do *real* 12 and 14 bit imaging... don't believe that 16bit crap- it's usually 'marketing bits' for the last couple.
So if you have a dedicated viewing system that can display an image appropriately at the bit depth (which is a bit of an oxymoron when you're talking about analog systems) you've got an easy 13 bit display.
And want to know something really interesting about that? The image looks lifelike. As in, you could almost reach in and touch it.
8 bit really sucks.
The Hole Transport Layer is usually the weak link in the OLED device. This material (hah) transports holes, if you like to think of it that way) between the substrate and the luminous amount.
... most companies have differing versions of their HTs, some of them are optimized with their own dopants (funny that).
:(
I believe kodak has HT1 and HT2
Itumitzu (sp?) had some nice ones, but it's been a long while since I've worked on anything like that and the market changes fast. I can't even recall all the big players anymore
Yeah Kodak introduced an OLED screen on the back of a camera. It was only available overseas (growl) and you couldn't get it here in the states.
I know a few Kodak employees that managed to get one, but they had contacts in Europe management that requested them. God they were great to look at- you could show a full semicircle the photo you just took and EVERYONE could see the image clearly.
I think Kodak was also incorporating them into some pro level gear, but I don't remember much on that.
OLEDs are made by sublimation, currently- earlier ones used a spin coat (easy) to make small panels. New panels are on the order of LCD raw stocks. Since you have to sublime chemicals (which could be as low as 150C to as high as 450C) the 'mask' which prevents the chemical from contacting where it shouldn't usually warps.
:P
Until this problem is solved (or they go to a rotary repeatable drum method) they'll never get the panels much larger then what theyre at.
And yes, making 1 off panels are easy... but it'll cost 30K$
The big problem with OLEDs is you need some way to make them dark. Really- the ITO substrate is highly reflective, and given the nature of the panel that means your 'off' colour is actually your ambient light level reflected right back at you.
.5ma to 1ma and you can get your 1000:1 but at the cost of lifetime (chemical migration, etc).
:)
Which lowers the effective contrast to about 30:1.
When you add a polarizer, you can get up to about 250:1. Crank the driving current from
So yes, you don't particularly need to 'filter' the light, but some modern OLED designs still do... and since I don't know what I can and can't say I won't say anything
(used to work on them till they laid me off... bastards)
It's currently available on LCD from IBM. Can't remember the panel cost but it's up there. 200 PPI is about 12 cycles/degree, which isn't very good for detecting stuff.
:P
I've seen OLEDs made to high resolutions in test fabs but the biggest issue is putting the chemicals down- oddly enough they can't figure out how to etch organics as easily as silicon
Millions has been poured into research on making those chemicals in such manners that no way mother nature couldve come up with them.
In fact, she'd have to be as high as a kite to come up with some of the formulations I've seen. And yes, before being laid off I worked on OLED chemicals so I'm fairly knowledgeable about both their manufacture and their design.
Although I'm sure you didn't mean it this way, but did you really interpret 'organic' to mean 'natural' ??? Because if you did... well, I'll be nice it's hump day.
Seriously- I know. I calibrate them.
Of course you need a good probe to know read the CRT- and that means something like the SLS9400, which retailed around 5K at last recall. And you can't ever shut the monitor off, it has to be on ALL the time.
And of course you need a specialized interface for Windows, because windows simply chokes on anything other than 8 bit. Certain cards, like the Dome boards (10 bit BW) are great. Others actually have internal 10 bit ramdacs but don't allow driver access to them. Such a pity.
The underlying subsystem is broken for windows which will limit everyone to 8 bits for years to come.
Never mind that CRT manufactures are calling daily to say they're discontinuing this model, that model... sigh.
(and you need 8 bit to 10 bit internal to avoid banding/quantitizaiton errors after calibrating...)
http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/100_iso.htm
That's all I'm going to say. I've worked with all the solvents you've mentioned, in larger quantities than any human being should rightly come in contact with (chemicals plant) and I've got to tell you: They All Suck.
I lost a gf because I was so irritatable after being exposed to IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol) that I simply couldn't stand to see her. I'd come home, she'd be on the couch, have dinner ready, wearing something provocative... and the only thing that would pop into my head was "God damnit she's here again".
CNS symptoms are nasty for solvent exposure to IPA. I can't even imagine what would have happend if, as you suggest, I had drunk it.
Once I got laid off from that job and no longer was exposed to the fumes, my personality came back to normal. The ex-gf and I are still friends, but she's still doesn't believe me entirely that it was the fumes (tho she's comin around now and then).
Stay away from that crap and remember: Even Alcohols good, Odd Alcohols Kill.
... produces no RF.
Now what happens when said unit is damaged? One of the first things to go on a laptop is the shielding around the units- especially if they've been repaired. A bad solder joint from the factory or, even worse, a home repair where the user said "Screw it I don't need to put the RF shielding back in place".
Suddenly your non-leaky laptop is now radiating RF in all directions because it's missing the copper mesh that was removed!
Tape cassette, well... yeah thats a hard sell to produce RF. In fact I'd say modern units produce more RF given the more highly compact nature and the more processing performed. Pity I don't actually own a cassette player so that I could have it's RF measured.
And you are 100% correct that being alert during takeoff/landing is the most important reason for prohibiting anything other than staring ahead.
I mean, really- I honestly believed that huge inverter in your laptop that runs the backlight at high voltage and high frequencies might possibly induce a current in an improperly shielded or frayed control wire.
Or that a spinning motor induces current in wires around it.
Or that, since nothing has ever gone wrong before nothing can go wrong.
It's so reassuring that you believe its just a bunch of bull they feed you to keep you pacified and under control. Thank god you can gamble with my life- I don't take enough risks driving down the street with all the morons that have licenses out of ceral boxes.
But I know nothing you do would ever cause a plane to experience instrumentation malfunction since, of course, you believe it so strongly.
Any chance you'll post your name, address, and social, so we can get you added to the do not fly list? Fucking twit. Put your cellphone on TDMA and hold it near a landline reciever and dial out on the cell. Induced pickup. Stop gambling with other peoples lives.
We lost power last winter around 1100pm one evening. I went outside to survey the damage and, for a brief moment, I could have sworn I was watching a fire lick at the sky- the normally pitch black sky was 'orange' and flickering, just as if a huge fire was a few doors down.
Then it hit me- I was watching the death throes of the power grid as all the street sodium vapour lamps attempted to stay on... and as they cut out the sky was left it's natural, black look.
Oh, and this image is WAY old. I've seen 20x60's for some time around work, I'd say for at least a year.
I have a mole on my arm that reads "STAB HERE FOR VEIN". Seriously. Nice and well placed, all they have to do is come close and they'll get a perfect stick.
So this nurse in Indiana screws it up. She stabs THRU the vein. Blood sprays all over the tube. She gets another tube, stabs, misses, sprays again.
after the 5th stick I'm pale white and about to pass out... I get up to leave, and this old, black nurse comes in and says "Honey you sit yourself right down, i'll get it and you won't even know".
I raise my arm to protest, she grabs it and sticks it in one smooth motion, so smooth I never felt the needle.
Man I love that woman.