Try shorting out a li-ion battery while it's on your lap.
It's fun, I swear!
Seriously, though - they're going to have to make them safe enough for consumer use (i.e. average jane and joe) so I figure you'll have as much of a chance of one of the fuel cells blowing sky high as the li-ion battery...
My big question would be - since I'm into rechargables (AA, AAA, etc) - is there an easy way to make your own "wood alcohol" or whatever it is to power these? I'm kinda spoiled by just spending $$ on electricity for all of my battery operated devices. Which I'm pretty sure is less than me going out and buying batteries all the time...
I work in an area with a Liebert air handler. Not overly loud, but a good bit of white noise. When I do make calls to our vendors and I'm on hold, I toss my phone into speakerphone mode, and hit "mute". Since it's not truly a full duplex speakerphone, this makes it so that the liebert unit doesn't activate the mic, thereby making it so I can't tell if the hold music is still playing.
Of course, your phone on your desk may or may not have these features.
I have a rather old projector (LP420 infocus) that won't even accept a ceiling mount, much less not have an option to flip the screen if one were available.
Since it is a DLP projector, it's got a color wheel that spins. I could probebly accept the fan "whoosh", but that color wheel motor seems to put out a majority of the noise/whine.
Actually, from what I've seen most do have a white slot in the color wheel. Helps improve the brightness. Remember reading something a few months back (memory is a bit fuzzy) how people were taking apart a certain projector (x1?) and darkening the white slot to get lower black levels...?
Actually, that just sounds like your video overlays were not displaying properly on the screen. I've noticed this with a dual monitor setup on NVidia cards - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
You'd think Video Card Voodoo would be a thing of the past - kinda like 3dfx (I know, I know, bad joke...)
"DSL bypasses the problem entirely since you truely have the upload bandwidth already allocated as promised."
Yes and no. True, you using your full upload capacity doesn't necessarily affect someone next door insofar as cable would. However, you still have to worry about the choke points - if all DSL users hooked up to an ISP started slamming their upload, they could quite possibly overwhelm the ISP's line to the 'net. Seeing as we're talking about residential internet access, it's still oversold, although I don't know the ratio now....
Used to be, with modems, you could do about 8 to 1 (8 subscribers to one modem). Now I know that doesn't have much to do with bandwidth, but I'm sure that if a DSL ISP had a T1, they could sell 3-5 accounts (more?) to utilize it (residential), because the assumption is that no one is downloading the latest Spiderman2 Telecine.
I was thinking about buying one of these two cards, but I really need one question answered:
How does it sound?
By that I mean, does the sound have a high pitched whine to it, or is it properly filtered so that I don't have to cringe every time I attempt to watch something I recorded off the air?
Currently, if I want to capture something for good, I run it through a VCR to get the audio and video into the card, thus negating the need for a "tuner-capture" card. Does the 250 and 350 do sound "better"?
sparks + gasoline = explosion that makes your car go vrooom!
Higher voltage might actually help the combustion process, or make it somewhat easier to make sparks for the chambers. However, I fail to see how a higher voltage car will cause a problem unless the precautions that are taken today aren't taken in the cars of the future...
Keep in mind, the minute that battery drains itself, it can possibly be good for no one. Would almost be better to keep it in the thinkpad topped off all the time.
I had a laptop I forgot to plug into the wall for about 6 months (long story short, it was slightly broken, but I used it occasionally) and the battery will never hold a charge again....
"My back is very thankfull, and every time i have to move a CRT monitor across campus, I am reminded about how thankfull my back is."
Should use some of the "savings" to invest in a cart:)
On a side note, who around here is sick of having to justify savings every single year to management? I see no benefit in stating a $100,000 savings goal when it feels fake 'cause we spent 3 mil on a new phone switch...
"Are you serious? Most organizations don't care at all about whether software is open-source."
Actually, I sit on the other side of the fence. All of the organizations I've worked with, save 1, would freak on open source. Why? Well, who would they point the finger at?
I used open source with one company - a small, 10 person shop. The big man at the top said "get it working"... and didn't care how it worked, just knew that my butt would be in a slinger if I didn't....
Thankfully, I've not had too much problem with Sony hardware.
I still have an original PS-1 (with the AV outs on the back.) Sure, a glass of water spilled on it, requiring me to find a vendor to sell me a power supply, but that was it. Still plays discs fine.
I also bought a PS2 when I knew that Soul Calibur 2 would be out for it. Now, it's relegated to playing DVDs to my el-cheapo home theatre (old business projector and blackout cloth screen.) Never missed a beat.
I've also got a Sony STR-DE935 receiver that has never ever skipped a beat. I once thought it was having trouble with the subwoofer output; turns out that's my fault for putting an RCA cable where people walk!
My only real issue is - I bought a minidisc player for about 200$ a few years back when I had hernia surgery. Pretty sweet unit, and sounds excellent with a good set of cans, however when you use said unit to record, anything in the last 15 minutes of the disc gets skippy. Plays all other recorded media fine (have a component recorder as well.)
Sony's solution to fixing my MD player? Give us 150$ and we'll give you one of comparable value. Well, crap, I'd rather just go out and spend $$ on a new MD unit. Which I would, if the cheaper ones had mic and line ins (I could rant about this for hours, can't you tell?)
So, for me, it's 1 of 4 broken in probably 6 years I've been aquiring Sony hardware. I'm just glad it was the MD player, and not the others... 'cause now I can justify that MP3 player I've been eyeing for 2 years!
"Given that D-cell rechargeable NiCd's are about 300 mAH, they'd last about, oh, say, 30-40 seconds...."
What???... I've been looking at rechargables lately (used to use all sorts when I was younger.) The highest capacity "D" size cell I have found is a 9Ah cell. They're a little pricey when you get up there in the Ah ratings (probably about 5-10$ a cell) but they're probably worth it.
Those were Ni-Mh cells, though. I've seen some cheaper 2Ah D cells, pretty much bottom of the line. Remember when Radio Shack used to sell their common "D" size rechargables, which were just C cells stuffed into bigger packaging?
I just checked some of the larger cities I've lived in, and they rate just the same as Baltimore, so I'm wondering.... since the site claims "averages", does that mean the cities get pounded more? I'd rather see averages between cities, not for the whole US....
I've found that while Raid0 can be nice to show off a benchmark, these so called Raid controllers on motherboards these days are kinda quirky.
Back when Yuri's Revenge was out (command & conquer series), when I played on my machine with the onboard raid controller enabled (for all drives in the system), the game would actually hiccup. I found out that this was from the "software raid" driver eating up CPU that would normally go to the game.
As well, when you do Raid0, if you don't have identical disks (meaning same manufacturer, same # of platters etc), then you also run into the problem of increased seek times. Why? Well, one disk may get to the needed sector in say 9ms. The other disk, though, since it's of different drive geometry, takes 13ms. Every seek will take as long as the longest drive, actually making the setup feel slower.
I haven't tested any true "hardware" ide raid solutions - I'd assume they are better, especially when using the same disks.
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Your insurance company would pay for the damage caused, but you'd pay for it through a thing called "premium increase".
I bought mine after owning a 95 Z28. I still miss it from time to time.
From fast to old man car. But it's damn comfy on the highway!
You have an explorer and you're worried about funding the gasoline for it?
Sounds like someone needs to go down to his neighborhood Kia dealer. Or maybe get a VW Jetta TDI. A friend of mine has one, 50mpg.
Of course, I shouldn't talk. I drive either a 99 grand marquis or a 78 cougar.
Try shorting out a li-ion battery while it's on your lap.
It's fun, I swear!
Seriously, though - they're going to have to make them safe enough for consumer use (i.e. average jane and joe) so I figure you'll have as much of a chance of one of the fuel cells blowing sky high as the li-ion battery...
My big question would be - since I'm into rechargables (AA, AAA, etc) - is there an easy way to make your own "wood alcohol" or whatever it is to power these? I'm kinda spoiled by just spending $$ on electricity for all of my battery operated devices. Which I'm pretty sure is less than me going out and buying batteries all the time...
That's why they make "Volume" and "Mute" keys.
I work in an area with a Liebert air handler. Not overly loud, but a good bit of white noise. When I do make calls to our vendors and I'm on hold, I toss my phone into speakerphone mode, and hit "mute". Since it's not truly a full duplex speakerphone, this makes it so that the liebert unit doesn't activate the mic, thereby making it so I can't tell if the hold music is still playing.
Of course, your phone on your desk may or may not have these features.
I have a rather old projector (LP420 infocus) that won't even accept a ceiling mount, much less not have an option to flip the screen if one were available.
Since it is a DLP projector, it's got a color wheel that spins. I could probebly accept the fan "whoosh", but that color wheel motor seems to put out a majority of the noise/whine.
Actually, from what I've seen most do have a white slot in the color wheel. Helps improve the brightness. Remember reading something a few months back (memory is a bit fuzzy) how people were taking apart a certain projector (x1?) and darkening the white slot to get lower black levels...?
"(or nerd's) type of job."
Yea, just think of the R&R time. My UT2004 pings would be through the roof!
Like what?
*scratch scratch scratch*
Probably the same time the iPod - 1978 Mercury Cougar XR7 campaign starts.
Actually, that just sounds like your video overlays were not displaying properly on the screen. I've noticed this with a dual monitor setup on NVidia cards - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
You'd think Video Card Voodoo would be a thing of the past - kinda like 3dfx (I know, I know, bad joke...)
Even on a switched network, you'll still see broadcast-domain traffic, as well as ARP requests.
Pretty simple to get MAC adresses from those two.
"DSL bypasses the problem entirely since you truely have the upload bandwidth already allocated as promised."
Yes and no. True, you using your full upload capacity doesn't necessarily affect someone next door insofar as cable would. However, you still have to worry about the choke points - if all DSL users hooked up to an ISP started slamming their upload, they could quite possibly overwhelm the ISP's line to the 'net. Seeing as we're talking about residential internet access, it's still oversold, although I don't know the ratio now....
Used to be, with modems, you could do about 8 to 1 (8 subscribers to one modem). Now I know that doesn't have much to do with bandwidth, but I'm sure that if a DSL ISP had a T1, they could sell 3-5 accounts (more?) to utilize it (residential), because the assumption is that no one is downloading the latest Spiderman2 Telecine.
I was thinking about buying one of these two cards, but I really need one question answered:
How does it sound?
By that I mean, does the sound have a high pitched whine to it, or is it properly filtered so that I don't have to cringe every time I attempt to watch something I recorded off the air?
Currently, if I want to capture something for good, I run it through a VCR to get the audio and video into the card, thus negating the need for a "tuner-capture" card. Does the 250 and 350 do sound "better"?
You seem to forget:
sparks + gasoline = explosion that makes your car go vrooom!
Higher voltage might actually help the combustion process, or make it somewhat easier to make sparks for the chambers. However, I fail to see how a higher voltage car will cause a problem unless the precautions that are taken today aren't taken in the cars of the future...
Keep in mind, the minute that battery drains itself, it can possibly be good for no one. Would almost be better to keep it in the thinkpad topped off all the time.
I had a laptop I forgot to plug into the wall for about 6 months (long story short, it was slightly broken, but I used it occasionally) and the battery will never hold a charge again....
"My back is very thankfull, and every time i have to move a CRT monitor across campus, I am reminded about how thankfull my back is."
:)
Should use some of the "savings" to invest in a cart
On a side note, who around here is sick of having to justify savings every single year to management? I see no benefit in stating a $100,000 savings goal when it feels fake 'cause we spent 3 mil on a new phone switch...
Actually, I would place a bet that it was closer to 3000mAh, right? 300mah would be about right for a triple a nicad...
"Are you serious? Most organizations don't care at all about whether software is open-source."
Actually, I sit on the other side of the fence. All of the organizations I've worked with, save 1, would freak on open source. Why? Well, who would they point the finger at?
I used open source with one company - a small, 10 person shop. The big man at the top said "get it working"... and didn't care how it worked, just knew that my butt would be in a slinger if I didn't....
Thankfully, I've not had too much problem with Sony hardware.
I still have an original PS-1 (with the AV outs on the back.) Sure, a glass of water spilled on it, requiring me to find a vendor to sell me a power supply, but that was it. Still plays discs fine.
I also bought a PS2 when I knew that Soul Calibur 2 would be out for it. Now, it's relegated to playing DVDs to my el-cheapo home theatre (old business projector and blackout cloth screen.) Never missed a beat.
I've also got a Sony STR-DE935 receiver that has never ever skipped a beat. I once thought it was having trouble with the subwoofer output; turns out that's my fault for putting an RCA cable where people walk!
My only real issue is - I bought a minidisc player for about 200$ a few years back when I had hernia surgery. Pretty sweet unit, and sounds excellent with a good set of cans, however when you use said unit to record, anything in the last 15 minutes of the disc gets skippy. Plays all other recorded media fine (have a component recorder as well.)
Sony's solution to fixing my MD player? Give us 150$ and we'll give you one of comparable value. Well, crap, I'd rather just go out and spend $$ on a new MD unit. Which I would, if the cheaper ones had mic and line ins (I could rant about this for hours, can't you tell?)
So, for me, it's 1 of 4 broken in probably 6 years I've been aquiring Sony hardware. I'm just glad it was the MD player, and not the others... 'cause now I can justify that MP3 player I've been eyeing for 2 years!
"Given that D-cell rechargeable NiCd's are about 300 mAH, they'd last about, oh, say, 30-40 seconds...."
... I've been looking at rechargables lately (used to use all sorts when I was younger.) The highest capacity "D" size cell I have found is a 9Ah cell. They're a little pricey when you get up there in the Ah ratings (probably about 5-10$ a cell) but they're probably worth it.
What???
Those were Ni-Mh cells, though. I've seen some cheaper 2Ah D cells, pretty much bottom of the line. Remember when Radio Shack used to sell their common "D" size rechargables, which were just C cells stuffed into bigger packaging?
Nah, it's probably just because they've not managed to squeeze a hard disc into a memory stick.
Just you wait!
I just checked some of the larger cities I've lived in, and they rate just the same as Baltimore, so I'm wondering.... since the site claims "averages", does that mean the cities get pounded more? I'd rather see averages between cities, not for the whole US....
Let's kick it up a notch.
*BAM!*
I've found that while Raid0 can be nice to show off a benchmark, these so called Raid controllers on motherboards these days are kinda quirky.
Back when Yuri's Revenge was out (command & conquer series), when I played on my machine with the onboard raid controller enabled (for all drives in the system), the game would actually hiccup. I found out that this was from the "software raid" driver eating up CPU that would normally go to the game.
As well, when you do Raid0, if you don't have identical disks (meaning same manufacturer, same # of platters etc), then you also run into the problem of increased seek times. Why? Well, one disk may get to the needed sector in say 9ms. The other disk, though, since it's of different drive geometry, takes 13ms. Every seek will take as long as the longest drive, actually making the setup feel slower.
I haven't tested any true "hardware" ide raid solutions - I'd assume they are better, especially when using the same disks.