What point are you trying to make overall? That bittorrent should be illegal because there are other sources of the files?
No problems with bad labels here. Video Game Demos (those things are getting huge!). Sourceforge clearly labels the downloads and organizes them in a way that BT doesn't.
HUH? I have very good luck and speed with torrents when compared to a more conventional mirror. Check out the latest stats for this Knoppix torrent. Over 30k downloads and roughly 20TB. The link to the torrent download is on the same page that lists the conventional mirror sites, what is mislabeled or hard to figure out? Are you making stuff up?
Using your line of thought, we should ban FTP because you can use http to get files also.
Google would be better for most of this.
How many files have you downloaded from Google? I bet it was NONE. Google will help you FIND the link to what you search for. That link can be a ftp, http, or bittorrent link to the actual content.
They are not moving away from oil and gas. They are trying to use the rest of their business resources for future uses so they do not become extinct. Think about it, not only are oil companies pulling stuff from the ground. They are chemical refining companies, distribution companies, they are retail outlets. The only difference between oil and any other fuel they decide to work with is where the inital source comes from.
That does work for MAIL part of Exchange but not for the contacts, tasks, calender and journal (does anyone actually use the journal in Outlook). There are partial work arounds for some of them but no where near a one application solution.
I second your Rain-X findings but I'd like to add some more negatives. It seems to provide a glare at night with or without rain for a few days after applying it. Another negative is once the Rain-X starts to wear off and you need to use the wipers again, they do not work very well. I guess the Rain-X adheres to the blades and probably something that could be cleaned off with some rubbing alcohol. Even with the negatives, I still use Rain-X on all of the cars windows including the side mirrors.
Funny yes but I belive there was actual provisions in a recent law that made it illegal to even simulate certain types of sex acts and pornography created or modified with computers. Meaning you can not even use photoshop to paste the face of a 13 year old on a 18+ year old person or use computer rendering to simulate a 16 year old showing something. In theory, child pornography is illegal because of the age of the person and exploitation of people not legally old enough to make their own decisions which is the actual crime. With computer animation, modeling, fabrication, no real minors are injured or exploited but the resulting session can still be considered illegal. One of two reason come to mind. It would be too easy for a real criminal exploiting real minors to claim it was done with computers, or the government is really trying to provide moral guidance or laws by making such creations illegal. Sooo.. Make sure all of your virtual actors are older then 18!
There are ways a person could have been proactive to prevent any meaningful DoubleClick tracking. You could delete your cookies causing a new Doubleclick tracker every time, you could download a special opt-out cookie directly from DoubleClick that would prevent tracking to begin with (so they say), or simply point them to localhost in your hosts file. The disadvantage for the tin foils hats is how do you see what information they actually do have on you? If you downloaded the anti tracking cookie, how do you go about removing all tracking data before you got that cookie or deleted your previous cookie for a new one? That I do not know.
In my opinion though, if a product fails all the time, it should be recalled or else the company should pay to replace them PROACTIVELY.
I do not know about "proactively" but I had an issue with a Sony AV reciever I bought back in like 1992. In 1995/1996 I was searching DejaNews for some issues I had with the unit, sure enough, I found at least 10 posts referencing the same exact issue. I called Sony and pointed out what problems I was having and what my usenet research found. They offered to fix the unit for free if I paid to ship it to a specific service center in California. I did and it was fixed. I would not expect that level of service but I squeeked and they oiled.
On that note.. I've been on the other side of the fence also. My parents owned an electronics shop themselves. When I was 16, I knew the basics of electronics and repair but was no expert. My job was pickup and deliveries and to fix "well known" issues. An example being a range of 2-3 year old GE models that had nothing but a bright vertical line in the center of the screen. Since different size TV's share a common main board, this effected quite a bit of their line I guess. It was a 50v 100mfd capacitor that went bad in the high voltage section of the system board. I probably replaced 50 of those in a two year period and got to keep 50% of our $75 repair charge. That specific example and a few others helped keep a decent amount of money in my pocket through high school.
Have you tried the fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels? It took only two of those to cut off the rusted bolts to my catalytic convertor. They wear much slower and provide much more forgiveness for non lateral movement then the standard type. If you hold the Dremel with two hands and use the index finger of one hand as a support, you will have better results. I usually blow off the safety glasses required warnings on power equipment but not with those cutting wheels.
I'm sure they did some research on this but I am confused on the bit selection. For those that can not get directly to the site, the 191 bit is a carving bit, a standard Dremel tool bit with the grooved ball on the end. I've used that for carving and material removal before but for a pumpkin? A pumpkin is at least 1 inch thick. You'd have to push the bit in and out or repeatedly go over the same spot over and over again until you finally break through. I would think the bit used to cut drywall would work better. It is more like a drill bit but has sharp edges and less twist. You can cut through the whole way in one pass. I hate to admit it but I actually used a jig saw on a pumpkin before, it turned out pretty good but I could not get the fine details with it. In rcent years I used those kits from the grocery store with the small hand saws. Work good but my hands cramp up. I'll try the Dremel tool this year.
I've seen quite a few people get kicked off of tracks. Tracks/locations/events have safety rules for cars and drivers that can obtain certain times. An example is a requirement for a full roll cage on anything under 12 seconds or a helmet under 13, a drive shaft safety loop under 11 blah blah. If the techs were scrambling, and the car really looked stock, it may have been a case of non disclosure. Running mid 10's is not a fluke, the original inspection may not have been for such a time.
That specific car engine combo would require more then nitrous to get a time like that, or at the end of that run, the engine would be a glob of molten metal. Using a rough estimate HP calculator, it would take ~630 HP to get a 3700lb car and driver down the 1/4 mile in the mid 10's. Considering the 2002 GTP has 260HP stock, nitrous would have to make up that difference, although an effective "power adder" when used responsibly, it can not do miracles!
I've never seen a a sub 11 second FWD car at any of the tracks I go to. I know they exist but I only see them on TV. My question. Why do they have a wheelie bar on the back? I doubt it is used to prevent the car from flipping over. It appears that it COULD be used to limit the transfer of weight to the back tires on launch. IMHO, If that is what it is really used for, that is kind of cheating isnt it? It effectively turns the car into a 6 wheel vehicle and changes the whole perspective and concept of using a FWD to begin with.
For every knowledgeable enthusiast, there are many more misinformed or incorrect speculators whose opinions usually spring from personal preference or a need to hear themselves talk.
The whole reason for test and tune day at the track.
That grouping can be catorigized into two types of people. Those that actually race and those that do not. People have many different goals when it comes to building a car: looks, straight line speed, handling, and durability and almost always some mixture of each. With that, you get different opinions on what works and what does not.
There is some gray area.. Examples.. Some people remove the cooling water supply from the throttle body on cars so equiped. Some think it heats up the incoming air to much and others think it is required to cool the throttle body. Another one. At a 1/4 or 1/8 mile track, many people are pushing their cars to the line and apply ice to the intake, others run it to the line and have the car at normal operating temperature. For some, the colder denser air seems to be an advantage, for others, having the temperatures in the normal range puts the cars computer in a closed loop and running at its peak as it is not compensating for lower temperatures (retarded timing, incease in idle, higher or lower fuel/air ratio etc...) Each of these examples are really effected by what else the person has on the car and some are opinions. The actual indicator of advantage is the clocks time.
My point.. The people that actually race the car and can compare before and after times are the only ones that really know the true effect of a modification. 10 degrees advanced timing or 15 degrees? You will only know the true difference between the two on a track with a timer. Optimum tire pressure for your tire and suspension setup? Who the hell really knows without repeated timed laps. People that NEVER go to an actual track or an event are not the ones you want to blindly take advice from, those are probably the same people that put a new muffler on the car and swear they can actually feel the difference. I doubt anyone in the world can actually feel the difference between a real world difference of.01 to.1 seconds in a 1/4 mile let alone from one stop sign to the third telephone poll.
The time clock should be treated the same as running a doom3 timed demo after changing your memory timings. Does it just feel faster or do you have something indicated to back it up? That can seperate FUD from speculation.
Since there's no authentication of the sender, anybody can send out messages with the "From:" address of the desigated victim, and can smear their reputation into being anything from a spammer to a pornographer.
On that note, all of the technical people already know this so the smear campaign will not work against them. I can not even make a guess about the percentage of "plain folks" that might be fooled but probably not as many as you think. I'm sure every person in the world with an email account has got and noticed email with a fake from field considering the amount of spam and worm artifacts flying around. Child porn is a different level when compared to a scam email, a virus, a security breach, a click me from your friend, m0Rtg4Ge L000an, or a phishing attempt. Child porn would stand out as something a business obviuosly would not send. I do not believe the impact would be that great, maybe some sour feelings by the business owners and employees but not much bottom line impact. Maybe I am wrong..
Ordering page is overloaded but I can assume what the reposnse for my phone number will be:
"Sorry, it is not currently in your area but we will be servicing your neighborhood very soon."
Funny thing is exactly what I've been hearing monthly from Verizon since 1998 when I first started trying to get DSL service from them. Even phone calls are greeted with the same response. I'm sure they have more updated area deployment estimates that are more accurate then 6 years.
Not only a math error, the 50lb removal of wires has to be replaced with something. There was no mention anywhere in the article of this concept replacing an existing wiring harness. In a car, you have wires for signaling, and wires for power. The wires for power delivery are not something you can remove, your headlights require a certain amount of amperage and there is no other way to get it there without an adequate copper wire. I guess in theory you could run several +12v wires around the car and provide power capability in series to everything that needs it. You would also need some type of data bus to each electrical or electronic component or modulate a signal down the same power wires with every device having an electronic reciever and power switching capability to handle the load. Kind of like an X10 system for the car. When you hit the brakes, the brake pedal electronic transmitter sends out code 01011001 down the line, any recieving device programmed to respond with 01011001 passes power from its power bus to the device it controls like the left, right and center brake light. How much weight are you going to save here if any with a car like that?
How about a portable kerosene heater for heat? They work very well, require ZERO electric and give off a lot of heat and light. I have a 22K BTU/HR model. It uses about 1/8 gallon/hr (~10-12 hours for a 1.6 gallon tank) on the lowest setting. I've used it several times as my only heat source in the winter and it keeps my house above 65F even when the outside temperature is 10F and below. I also use it on occasion to supplement my heat pump on 20F or lower nights. A lot of people are reluctant to use them but I've never had a problem with them. If you use common sense and follow the basic safety precautions* , they are very safe to operate. They do smell when you first start and shut them off though. The location I normally operate mine is close to a bathroom. I slide it there immediately after I shut it off, turn the vent fan on and shut the door, that prevents the shutdown smell from spreading around the house.
* fill them outside, never fill while hot, keep everything at least 3ft away from the device while it is operating, always use kerosene and not gas etc..
It is not about the amount of rain people have the perception of, it is the percentage of time or the amount of days it is raining. A thunderstorm pattern consistant with the mid west and east coast summers can drop several inches of rain in an hour and then turn sunny and hot again. In Portland, it can rain for a week straight before that accumulation occurs. Most people have issues if it is raining in general, not how much is failing in a certain time.
Portland Rainy days per year: 122 Total rain per year: 36 in
Memphis Rainy days per year: 89.7 Total rain per year: 52.1 in
Isn't that a reason to use SSH with public and private keys? Without a private key locally like on the USB memory stick and matching authorized public key remotely, the typed in passphrase is not immediately useful to someone that captures the keystrokes. I am no expert in this area and not claiming to be one, if I have a conceptual error, be gentle.
For years, I've been using a similar method with fetchmail to get my email via IMAP with SSH preauth from my shell provider through a cron job. Of course for this to be non interactive, I have a blank passphrase but still exponentially better then transmitting a plain text password down the line every five minutes.
Your simplified view of the software industry and supply and demand would be a reality IF MS was not a monopoly and using stongarm tactics to maintain that monopoly. If people had the same amount of choices with software as they had when they are looking for a car, your scenario would work.
Well unless they are playing live right in front of you with absolutely no electronics at all like microphones, guitar amps, keyboards etc.. then everything is considered lossy by your definition. The microphones have specific frequency characteristics as does all of the electronics upto and including the speaker and the room you are in, are you considering that lossy as well? So what does an electric guitar sound like without an amplifier or electronics? I'd bet you'd have to hold it up to your ears to hear it over the drums.
Yes, digital might not be able to capture the perfect analog wave form but the conversion from analog to digital (wherever it may occur in the mixing or production process) is not the weak link or anywhere near the most degrading portion in the whole process of getting it to your ears in your house on your equipment. 10 years ago and before I'd say the home users equipment or the fact that the orginal analog recording of the musical piece was the limiting factor in the chain. Sorry but you can not make the Jimmy Hendrix studio recordings that are left any better then what they currently are without bring him back from the dead. In more recent times I'd say the mixing process where "louder and higher levels" seem to be the trend although they causing clipping or need extensive dynamic compression to "fit" or again, the home stereo is the limiting factor. None of theses can be blamed on the the analog to digital conversion process.
I'd like to know how to make perfect analog copy that you reference;)
You have a point but I was not taught that way (US Navy). A heat bridge should be formed between the tip and the components to be soldered. This is done with the slight amount of clean solder added to the tip just prior to starting and then adding solder to the heat bridge junction area. I believe the reason for the Navy method was is adding the solder to the heat bridge would cause it to reach melting point much faster and prevent the negative effects of the flux from melting too early which would happen with the additional solder not being in the bridge area? I do not know enough about the molecular, physical, or thermal properties enough to agrue either method of where the added solder should be placed.
That was a joke. Maybe i should have included a real tip, Here's one.. Clean Clean Clean. Without clean solder, clean tip, clean surface, and clean component legs, no amount of skill will get you a good joint as the solder will not flow correctly. If you start clean, all that is left is fine tuning your heat bridge skills and using the correct amount of solder. You can get a good joint with practice. All oxidation and oils must be removed from all things for the rest of the process to work. There are finer tips and practices like component mounting distance from board depending on wattage of component, proper lead bending radius for stress removal, tinning of wires (prevent solder from flowing under the insulation), through distance (how far a component lead should stick out the other side etc..),although they are very good to adhere too, those things only come into play if your work had to meet specific requirements or be inspected to be certified. That is another level altogether.
Must haves:
Lint free wipes with alcohol for debris and oil removeal around the pads and solder
Eraser for cleaning oxidation off of components and the pads.
Wet sponge and ball or lint free wipes for thermal shock and cleaning the iron tip
A small sharp flat screwdriver or equal for scaping off conformal coating on circuit board.
They don't forbid selling below a price - that's illegal.
Are you sure about that? I thought that was the whole point of being "Authorized" as a dealer, the head company can set the terms of what you sell and for how much in a contract. If you abide by the contract terms, you remain authorized and will recieve more products in the future. Some contracts even include terms that if you plan to go out of business, the company will buy back their products so you can not dump them off. Of course that opens a gray market for merchandise from unauthorized dealers that was initially bought from authorized dealers at reduced prices. Search for a price for a Denon reciever and you'll see exactly what I mean.
Slashdot Mirror
What point are you trying to make overall? That bittorrent should be illegal because there are other sources of the files?
No problems with bad labels here. Video Game Demos (those things are getting huge!). Sourceforge clearly labels the downloads and organizes them in a way that BT doesn't.
HUH? I have very good luck and speed with torrents when compared to a more conventional mirror. Check out the latest stats for this Knoppix torrent. Over 30k downloads and roughly 20TB. The link to the torrent download is on the same page that lists the conventional mirror sites, what is mislabeled or hard to figure out? Are you making stuff up?
Using your line of thought, we should ban FTP because you can use http to get files also.
Google would be better for most of this.
How many files have you downloaded from Google? I bet it was NONE. Google will help you FIND the link to what you search for. That link can be a ftp, http, or bittorrent link to the actual content.
They are not moving away from oil and gas. They are trying to use the rest of their business resources for future uses so they do not become extinct. Think about it, not only are oil companies pulling stuff from the ground. They are chemical refining companies, distribution companies, they are retail outlets. The only difference between oil and any other fuel they decide to work with is where the inital source comes from.
I have been using Thunderbird for quite some time as my mail client at home connecting via IMAP. I have not seen what you are describing.
That does work for MAIL part of Exchange but not for the contacts, tasks, calender and journal (does anyone actually use the journal in Outlook). There are partial work arounds for some of them but no where near a one application solution.
I second your Rain-X findings but I'd like to add some more negatives. It seems to provide a glare at night with or without rain for a few days after applying it. Another negative is once the Rain-X starts to wear off and you need to use the wipers again, they do not work very well. I guess the Rain-X adheres to the blades and probably something that could be cleaned off with some rubbing alcohol. Even with the negatives, I still use Rain-X on all of the cars windows including the side mirrors.
Funny yes but I belive there was actual provisions in a recent law that made it illegal to even simulate certain types of sex acts and pornography created or modified with computers. Meaning you can not even use photoshop to paste the face of a 13 year old on a 18+ year old person or use computer rendering to simulate a 16 year old showing something. In theory, child pornography is illegal because of the age of the person and exploitation of people not legally old enough to make their own decisions which is the actual crime. With computer animation, modeling, fabrication, no real minors are injured or exploited but the resulting session can still be considered illegal. One of two reason come to mind. It would be too easy for a real criminal exploiting real minors to claim it was done with computers, or the government is really trying to provide moral guidance or laws by making such creations illegal. Sooo.. Make sure all of your virtual actors are older then 18!
There are ways a person could have been proactive to prevent any meaningful DoubleClick tracking. You could delete your cookies causing a new Doubleclick tracker every time, you could download a special opt-out cookie directly from DoubleClick that would prevent tracking to begin with (so they say), or simply point them to localhost in your hosts file. The disadvantage for the tin foils hats is how do you see what information they actually do have on you? If you downloaded the anti tracking cookie, how do you go about removing all tracking data before you got that cookie or deleted your previous cookie for a new one? That I do not know.
In my opinion though, if a product fails all the time, it should be recalled or else the company should pay to replace them PROACTIVELY.
I do not know about "proactively" but I had an issue with a Sony AV reciever I bought back in like 1992. In 1995/1996 I was searching DejaNews for some issues I had with the unit, sure enough, I found at least 10 posts referencing the same exact issue. I called Sony and pointed out what problems I was having and what my usenet research found. They offered to fix the unit for free if I paid to ship it to a specific service center in California. I did and it was fixed. I would not expect that level of service but I squeeked and they oiled.
On that note.. I've been on the other side of the fence also. My parents owned an electronics shop themselves. When I was 16, I knew the basics of electronics and repair but was no expert. My job was pickup and deliveries and to fix "well known" issues. An example being a range of 2-3 year old GE models that had nothing but a bright vertical line in the center of the screen. Since different size TV's share a common main board, this effected quite a bit of their line I guess. It was a 50v 100mfd capacitor that went bad in the high voltage section of the system board. I probably replaced 50 of those in a two year period and got to keep 50% of our $75 repair charge. That specific example and a few others helped keep a decent amount of money in my pocket through high school.
Have you tried the fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels? It took only two of those to cut off the rusted bolts to my catalytic convertor. They wear much slower and provide much more forgiveness for non lateral movement then the standard type. If you hold the Dremel with two hands and use the index finger of one hand as a support, you will have better results.
I usually blow off the safety glasses required warnings on power equipment but not with those cutting wheels.
I'm sure they did some research on this but I am confused on the bit selection. For those that can not get directly to the site, the 191 bit is a carving bit, a standard Dremel tool bit with the grooved ball on the end. I've used that for carving and material removal before but for a pumpkin? A pumpkin is at least 1 inch thick. You'd have to push the bit in and out or repeatedly go over the same spot over and over again until you finally break through. I would think the bit used to cut drywall would work better. It is more like a drill bit but has sharp edges and less twist. You can cut through the whole way in one pass. I hate to admit it but I actually used a jig saw on a pumpkin before, it turned out pretty good but I could not get the fine details with it. In rcent years I used those kits from the grocery store with the small hand saws. Work good but my hands cramp up. I'll try the Dremel tool this year.
I've seen quite a few people get kicked off of tracks. Tracks/locations/events have safety rules for cars and drivers that can obtain certain times. An example is a requirement for a full roll cage on anything under 12 seconds or a helmet under 13, a drive shaft safety loop under 11 blah blah. If the techs were scrambling, and the car really looked stock, it may have been a case of non disclosure. Running mid 10's is not a fluke, the original inspection may not have been for such a time.
That specific car engine combo would require more then nitrous to get a time like that, or at the end of that run, the engine would be a glob of molten metal. Using a rough estimate HP calculator, it would take ~630 HP to get a 3700lb car and driver down the 1/4 mile in the mid 10's. Considering the 2002 GTP has 260HP stock, nitrous would have to make up that difference, although an effective "power adder" when used responsibly, it can not do miracles!
A question on the front wheel drives..
I've never seen a a sub 11 second FWD car at any of the tracks I go to. I know they exist but I only see them on TV. My question. Why do they have a wheelie bar on the back? I doubt it is used to prevent the car from flipping over. It appears that it COULD be used to limit the transfer of weight to the back tires on launch. IMHO, If that is what it is really used for, that is kind of cheating isnt it? It effectively turns the car into a 6 wheel vehicle and changes the whole perspective and concept of using a FWD to begin with.
For every knowledgeable enthusiast, there are many more misinformed or incorrect speculators whose opinions usually spring from personal preference or a need to hear themselves talk.
.01 to .1 seconds in a 1/4 mile let alone from one stop sign to the third telephone poll.
The whole reason for test and tune day at the track.
That grouping can be catorigized into two types of people. Those that actually race and those that do not. People have many different goals when it comes to building a car: looks, straight line speed, handling, and durability and almost always some mixture of each. With that, you get different opinions on what works and what does not.
There is some gray area.. Examples.. Some people remove the cooling water supply from the throttle body on cars so equiped. Some think it heats up the incoming air to much and others think it is required to cool the throttle body. Another one. At a 1/4 or 1/8 mile track, many people are pushing their cars to the line and apply ice to the intake, others run it to the line and have the car at normal operating temperature. For some, the colder denser air seems to be an advantage, for others, having the temperatures in the normal range puts the cars computer in a closed loop and running at its peak as it is not compensating for lower temperatures (retarded timing, incease in idle, higher or lower fuel/air ratio etc...) Each of these examples are really effected by what else the person has on the car and some are opinions. The actual indicator of advantage is the clocks time.
My point..
The people that actually race the car and can compare before and after times are the only ones that really know the true effect of a modification. 10 degrees advanced timing or 15 degrees? You will only know the true difference between the two on a track with a timer. Optimum tire pressure for your tire and suspension setup? Who the hell really knows without repeated timed laps.
People that NEVER go to an actual track or an event are not the ones you want to blindly take advice from, those are probably the same people that put a new muffler on the car and swear they can actually feel the difference. I doubt anyone in the world can actually feel the difference between a real world difference of
The time clock should be treated the same as running a doom3 timed demo after changing your memory timings. Does it just feel faster or do you have something indicated to back it up? That can seperate FUD from speculation.
Since there's no authentication of the sender, anybody can send out messages with the "From:" address of the desigated victim, and can smear their reputation into being anything from a spammer to a pornographer.
On that note, all of the technical people already know this so the smear campaign will not work against them. I can not even make a guess about the percentage of "plain folks" that might be fooled but probably not as many as you think. I'm sure every person in the world with an email account has got and noticed email with a fake from field considering the amount of spam and worm artifacts flying around. Child porn is a different level when compared to a scam email, a virus, a security breach, a click me from your friend, m0Rtg4Ge L000an, or a phishing attempt. Child porn would stand out as something a business obviuosly would not send. I do not believe the impact would be that great, maybe some sour feelings by the business owners and employees but not much bottom line impact. Maybe I am wrong..
Ordering page is overloaded but I can assume what the reposnse for my phone number will be:
"Sorry, it is not currently in your area but we will be servicing your neighborhood very soon."
Funny thing is exactly what I've been hearing monthly from Verizon since 1998 when I first started trying to get DSL service from them. Even phone calls are greeted with the same response. I'm sure they have more updated area deployment estimates that are more accurate then 6 years.
Not only a math error, the 50lb removal of wires has to be replaced with something. There was no mention anywhere in the article of this concept replacing an existing wiring harness. In a car, you have wires for signaling, and wires for power. The wires for power delivery are not something you can remove, your headlights require a certain amount of amperage and there is no other way to get it there without an adequate copper wire. I guess in theory you could run several +12v wires around the car and provide power capability in series to everything that needs it. You would also need some type of data bus to each electrical or electronic component or modulate a signal down the same power wires with every device having an electronic reciever and power switching capability to handle the load. Kind of like an X10 system for the car. When you hit the brakes, the brake pedal electronic transmitter sends out code 01011001 down the line, any recieving device programmed to respond with 01011001 passes power from its power bus to the device it controls like the left, right and center brake light. How much weight are you going to save here if any with a car like that?
How about a portable kerosene heater for heat? They work very well, require ZERO electric and give off a lot of heat and light.
I have a 22K BTU/HR model. It uses about 1/8 gallon/hr (~10-12 hours for a 1.6 gallon tank) on the lowest setting. I've used it several times as my only heat source in the winter and it keeps my house above 65F even when the outside temperature is 10F and below. I also use it on occasion to supplement my heat pump on 20F or lower nights. A lot of people are reluctant to use them but I've never had a problem with them. If you use common sense and follow the basic safety precautions* , they are very safe to operate. They do smell when you first start and shut them off though. The location I normally operate mine is close to a bathroom. I slide it there immediately after I shut it off, turn the vent fan on and shut the door, that prevents the shutdown smell from spreading around the house.
* fill them outside, never fill while hot, keep everything at least 3ft away from the device while it is operating, always use kerosene and not gas etc..
It is not about the amount of rain people have the perception of, it is the percentage of time or the amount of days it is raining. A thunderstorm pattern consistant with the mid west and east coast summers can drop several inches of rain in an hour and then turn sunny and hot again. In Portland, it can rain for a week straight before that accumulation occurs. Most people have issues if it is raining in general, not how much is failing in a certain time.
Portland
Rainy days per year: 122
Total rain per year: 36 in
Memphis
Rainy days per year: 89.7
Total rain per year: 52.1 in
Isn't that a reason to use SSH with public and private keys? Without a private key locally like on the USB memory stick and matching authorized public key remotely, the typed in passphrase is not immediately useful to someone that captures the keystrokes.
I am no expert in this area and not claiming to be one, if I have a conceptual error, be gentle.
For years, I've been using a similar method with fetchmail to get my email via IMAP with SSH preauth from my shell provider through a cron job. Of course for this to be non interactive, I have a blank passphrase but still exponentially better then transmitting a plain text password down the line every five minutes.
Your simplified view of the software industry and supply and demand would be a reality IF MS was not a monopoly and using stongarm tactics to maintain that monopoly. If people had the same amount of choices with software as they had when they are looking for a car, your scenario would work.
Well unless they are playing live right in front of you with absolutely no electronics at all like microphones, guitar amps, keyboards etc.. then everything is considered lossy by your definition. The microphones have specific frequency characteristics as does all of the electronics upto and including the speaker and the room you are in, are you considering that lossy as well?
;)
So what does an electric guitar sound like without an amplifier or electronics? I'd bet you'd have to hold it up to your ears to hear it over the drums.
Yes, digital might not be able to capture the perfect analog wave form but the conversion from analog to digital (wherever it may occur in the mixing or production process) is not the weak link or anywhere near the most degrading portion in the whole process of getting it to your ears in your house on your equipment.
10 years ago and before I'd say the home users equipment or the fact that the orginal analog recording of the musical piece was the limiting factor in the chain. Sorry but you can not make the Jimmy Hendrix studio recordings that are left any better then what they currently are without bring him back from the dead. In more recent times I'd say the mixing process where "louder and higher levels" seem to be the trend although they causing clipping or need extensive dynamic compression to "fit" or again, the home stereo is the limiting factor. None of theses can be blamed on the the analog to digital conversion process.
I'd like to know how to make perfect analog copy that you reference
You have a point but I was not taught that way (US Navy). A heat bridge should be formed between the tip and the components to be soldered. This is done with the slight amount of clean solder added to the tip just prior to starting and then adding solder to the heat bridge junction area. I believe the reason for the Navy method was is adding the solder to the heat bridge would cause it to reach melting point much faster and prevent the negative effects of the flux from melting too early which would happen with the additional solder not being in the bridge area?
I do not know enough about the molecular, physical, or thermal properties enough to agrue either method of where the added solder should be placed.
Here's one..
Clean Clean Clean. Without clean solder, clean tip, clean surface, and clean component legs, no amount of skill will get you a good joint as the solder will not flow correctly. If you start clean, all that is left is fine tuning your heat bridge skills and using the correct amount of solder. You can get a good joint with practice. All oxidation and oils must be removed from all things for the rest of the process to work. There are finer tips and practices like component mounting distance from board depending on wattage of component, proper lead bending radius for stress removal, tinning of wires (prevent solder from flowing under the insulation), through distance (how far a component lead should stick out the other side etc..),although they are very good to adhere too, those things only come into play if your work had to meet specific requirements or be inspected to be certified. That is another level altogether.
Must haves:
Lint free wipes with alcohol for debris and oil removeal around the pads and solder
Eraser for cleaning oxidation off of components and the pads.
Wet sponge and ball or lint free wipes for thermal shock and cleaning the iron tip
A small sharp flat screwdriver or equal for scaping off conformal coating on circuit board.
you can't be a true geek without learning to solder.
The bigger the glob, the better the job!
Basic soldering tips.
They don't forbid selling below a price - that's illegal.
Are you sure about that? I thought that was the whole point of being "Authorized" as a dealer, the head company can set the terms of what you sell and for how much in a contract. If you abide by the contract terms, you remain authorized and will recieve more products in the future. Some contracts even include terms that if you plan to go out of business, the company will buy back their products so you can not dump them off. Of course that opens a gray market for merchandise from unauthorized dealers that was initially bought from authorized dealers at reduced prices. Search for a price for a Denon reciever and you'll see exactly what I mean.