Not at all. I'm not saying it was radiation at all, perhaps some signal just resonated the wrong way. Have no idea actual. I'm still curious to find out.
But I'm fairly certain it wasn't an ergonomic issue due to the fact it wasn't my ear, neck, hand or wrist that hurt. It was on the side of my head with the phone but around the bony protrusion on the side of your skull near your spine(can't think of the name)and it also felt nothing like joint related pain.
Compounded by the fact that it was when it was next to my head, not neccassrily touching it. When it seemed like it was only happening while on the phone, I didn't assume it was. (I didn't know at the time that radio waves were a form of radiation). I didn't think it could be. I tried moving it around to see if it was and sure enough when it was close I felt that sensation and only then. Also noticed it was worse when the phone was on my right side. Why? I have no idea.
I've got mild arthritis, a bad back since I was a teen (no curve in my lower spine) had a bout with CTS, and every few years, lupus like inflammatory episodes with my joints. Never once did it feel like a hairdryer an inch or two away from the inflicated area.
So while I don't know what caused it, I can be fairly certain it wasn't the shape of the phone case.
I know there will be a lot of calls of bullshit, but here goes.
My first phone was an analog Nokia. I don't recall the model but I still have it here someplace. It took me awhile to realize the cause, but every time I used it, I'd get a headache and a weird sensation on that side of my head. A tingly hot feeling, almost felt like a hairdryer when it's too close to your head. Also slightly scattered in my thinking. Like it was hard to concentrate.
This was before I ever heard a peep about even the possiblity of radiation being a problem so it wasn't in my imagination. I never felt anything like that outside of using that phone. Never happend again after I stopped using it either (about 7 years ago)
After the realization, I was like Kirk and his communicator. I'd say something quickly and then hold it away from my head as far as I could while still being able to hear. My calls also got amazingly terse.
I hung on to it thinking of getting it tested one day. How could (where would) you go about measuring the radiation?
I'm hoping to tackle that this summer. I've been thinking about it for quite some time. My family has a ton of home movies and it's way too expensive to transfer. Taping it would be better than nothing, but if I'm going to do it, I'd like to do it once and for all.
If you wanted to get really tricky, I suppose you could try and route the film so there's more than one section of strip on the bed at a time. You'd have to flip every other row, but it would be much faster. Though I don't know how these old films would handle the stress.
Sure it does. Here's a better example (I just got in from the bar when writing that)
If I bid 40 right away and someone else comes along and decides it's worth 40. Bang, the price is forty bucks the first or second day. So nowhere to go but up and 5 days left.
Sometimes it will go that way anyway, but often other people will chip away towards the high bid, then last second I come in and bid what I really think it's worth and win the item within a few bucks of what I wanted to pay.
Everytime I've just flat out put what I thought it was worth to me as my maximum bid, the bidding war begins and a week later the price ends up sky high. Usually as much as the item would cost new (which makes no sense, but I digress)
You might disagree, but the strategy has worked out great for me. I win most of the stuff I want for the price I want.
I mostly get car parts myself. I see just about every listing that hits ebay every day for parts for my car (alot of listings). I see what I win and what other people pay for the same things and what I get them for is usually a 1/5 or less of what other people pay for the same items. So it certianly works for me.
I've done it and I'm not an idiot. Let's say I'm bidding on an item, usually start small as a maximum bid to avoid driving the price up early. Let's say that bid remains uncontested. Now it's getting near the end of the auction, it's late. I want to win it but don't want someone outbidding me at the last minute. Don't feel lilke watching it like a hawk at 2 in the morning.
I up the bid to what I would actually pay and go to sleep. Seems sensical to me.
I use a wireless cam mounted to a RC Jeep augmented with a bunch of white LEDs to chase my cat around. Always good for a laugh.
Boston Water & Sewer has been doing something similar to the article for ages. RC Car with a camera mounted to inspect pipes. Not so fun to watch. Basically looks like a looped tape.
A good point. Hadn't thought about that aspect too much. More concerned about not having it on during the BIOS load.
I guess a Firewire or USB drive/enclosure would be the simple solution or another Endurostar drive. I don't plan on watching movies or anything (though I want my MP3s).
I'd certianly agree with you about disabling safety features, but I think most drivers have a good feel for estimating their speed and engine rev. So I can't see a failure being a major safety issue in this context.
The main reason is I'm using linux is prior experience and the availability of the tools I want. Obviously, that could change once I get further along if I find it's not in practice workable.
Yeah, I thought about that. Xenarc has an ordering option for extra bright screens.
For my project, I have a coupe and the amount of light coming in from the rear is not bad at all.
So I'm going to compensate for it with the custom cowel. Due to the configuration of my interior, (my gauges are pretty far away. About 1ft behind the steering wheel, deeply recessed.) I can bring the sides around the lcd forward a good 6 or 7 inches. The back window is tinted really dark so the light that could potentially hit it will be negligable.
I'm more concerned with dimming it at night so it doesn't light the interior so much.
I think it depends on your needs. I know the protocol for my car (ISO) is way to slow (for my tastes) for a real time tach and speedo. I think VPW is much faster but with ISO I get 3 or 4 samples a second. RPMs can change alot in 1/3 of a second.
I don't think wheelspeed sensors are a standard OBDII sensor output. My car doesn't have mine available under OBDII. You can read them with the dealer tool though.
I'm doing this myself now. I'm still in the early stages but have most of the parts. Just need to pick the computer itself and the power supply. (Probably go Opus with a ITPS)
It's definitely going to be linux. I think I'm going to just put a half tower in the trunk as I'm going to need a lot of expansion cards.
I'm leaving the gauges in place and putting the monitor (lilliput 8" touchscreen) in front of it and wrapping it up in custom fiberglass cowel.
My wiring passes through the gauges into other systems, for instance the battery charger so it's easier to leave everything in place and easier to just remove screen and replace with stock cowel for inspection time.;)
For the harddrive, I'm using a ruggidized harddrive designed for automotive use. Slow but it's got a great temperature range and shock rating.
The keyboard I'm using is a tiny one I found on ebay. I cut it down to fit in a 1 DIN position. It fits between the stock radio and AC controls. You don't know it's there when retracted.
Most of the inputs will come from OBD-II (elmscan that I embedded inside floor) but it's not fast enough for the tach and speedo. (4 samples a sec at beast ISO) I'm tapping the tach, speedo and a few other input signals directly and processing them with a PIC. The PIC will then communicate with the PC via serial.
I'm thinking later, I'll add a large commodity drive for other non essentials that will be activated via a temperature controlled relay. So if it's under 40F in the trunk, it won't power the harddrive until it is hot enough or maybe I'll just use a USB drive.
My first advice is to buy the factory service manuals on ebay. They are invaluable. I got mine for $40 US. Three phone book size volumes with schematics as well.
You might find the factory training books for the electrical and whatnot as well. I did. It was nice to have the whole ECU protocol detalied. (Though not planning to tap into it at this point)
If possible, buy extras of whatever your going to mod on ebay. For most parts I'm fooling with, I have 2 or 3 extras that I've amassed over time. If your patient, you can get stuff cheap. For instance, in my spare room, I have a spare dashboard, gauges and most everything else on the dash. I'm using this to work on the fabrication so I don't have any downtime (or screw up my car)
$1700 dollars worth of stuff righ there. $240 shipped in mint condition. Patience is the key.
As far as the legality, I'm not concerned. If I had a massive failure, the only thing that I would be missing are my current speed, engine rpm, fuel and oil temperature. Nothing that would ever cause a crash. I can estimate the first 3 fairly accurately. Certainly enough to safely pull over and remove the screen and use the OEM gauges. A fuse could do the same thing to the OEM gauges (and has to me before)
Besides the fact that I'll have more readings on my car (which will actually improve safety), In phase 2, I'm going (try) to tap the ABS wheel speed sensors. By using the four sensors, I've now added differential tire pressure monitoring to my car.
My whole design goal is to have something integrated, yet I want it stealth. If you walked by, you'd have no idea it was anything special. You might if you were astute, notice the monitor, but you would probably just mistake it for a regular an OEM readout.
A great site (Australian cars though) for technical car info and ideas is Autospeed.com.
There is some other stuff, but I'm not going into detail until it's done:)
Well it's not that easy, but there are some benefits of remote start besides not freezing your ass off.
A couple years back, my sister started the car from her house on a cold day, she gathered her kids and went to go out to the car... which was by then enveloped in flames.
I've thought about it. It sucks because it's such a waste. Then again, none of mine last long at all and I do almost no printing. I've got 5 door stops here:(
Maybe if everyone did that next time they were looking for ink, it would make an impre$$ion.
I guess that never occured to me. I would be suprised if anything concerning Doom 1 would cause a problem over a decade later. Specifically seeing that it was obtained from an Id representitive in a public forum.
Anyway, it's something that would take me awhile to find. I've got a good idea where the hard copies are, but don't feel like scanning all that in. I'll have to dust off my 386sx-16 one of these days.
There is also stuff that isn't Doom related such as various discussions of how to compress Mode 13 VGA video in the most effective manner, and some thoughts on Wolf3D, etc.
In the beginnning of the 90s, I was a teen trying to get started in video games.
I found a BBS (I think MCI Worldcomm) in CA where John Carmack and Michael Abrash frequented. He was discussing Doom as it was being developed. Actually posted code from it as he was developing it and going into specifics of the engine. It was amazing to get that kind of perspective when your just starting out.
After a couple of months though it was removed. I take it that some people at Id didn't like him sharing the development of this ground breaking game while it was still being developed.
One of the things they looked at for Doom originally was Voxel models. I still have copies of this stuff someplace (including a primitive Voxel editor he released). I should dig it up and post it for posterity sake.
I shit you not. My first phone was a Nokia, I got the model about 10 years ago.
I didn't relate the two for some time, but I started getting a weird sensation on the part of my head near the cellphone. This happend a bunch of times before I made the connection.
The best I could describe it was a cross between pins and needles and holding a hair dryer to close to your head.
Once I made the connection, my cellphone converstation became amazingly brisk (until I got a headset, but even then, rarely used it)
Never experienced that with newer digital or analog models. I still have the phone around here somwhere as I had planned on trying to figure out if I could measure it somehow. So what would you use to measure something like that?
I know little of economics to be honest. Though I don't think it took a genuis to realize that companies that had little or no idea of how they would ever generate revenue could be worth billions. One company I did contract work for burned through $70,000,000 in a year. Giant 20 floor building downtown, 700 employees, and sold team athletic related items, or rather acted as a distributor.
My first thought was that you'd have to step on a lot of t-shirts to make 70 million a year.
My second thought was here they are spending all this money on tech and infrastructure and the only thing that made money was a >$20,000 site hosted on a celeron based server at an offsite host. The absurdity of it was quite clear to me.
One thing I will say is that Yahoo! Store (formerly Viaweb founded by Graham and others) was actually really profitable during the bubble (and I'm sure still is). Lots of people paying big bucks every 30 days. Though it seemed the managment at the time really didn't care. Cash wasn't very sexy.
Yahoo's spam filtering sucks. I trained it with 15,000 messages (over 99% spam) and it hasn't got one yet. Only 2 false positives. (I get around 100 spam a day on this account)
After much nagging, the answer I got was basically that if you forward mail to your Y! account, it doesn't filter it AT ALL. So anything that has a different to gets by. I wonder how this works if you pay yahoo to be someone@somwhere.com.
I wish I knew this before I spent all that time classifying. And I know your not supposed to bitch about free stuff and I'm not. Been a MailPlus customer for years.
At the very least they should have a swear filter you could use to catch the obvious shit such as "Tight Anal Teens get fucked in the ASS!"
You only have 50 or so filters and it's just not practical to try and catch even a small portion of blue language.
Slashdot Mirror
Not at all. I'm not saying it was radiation at all, perhaps some signal just resonated the wrong way. Have no idea actual. I'm still curious to find out.
But I'm fairly certain it wasn't an ergonomic issue due to the fact it wasn't my ear, neck, hand or wrist that hurt. It was on the side of my head with the phone but around the bony protrusion on the side of your skull near your spine(can't think of the name)and it also felt nothing like joint related pain.
Compounded by the fact that it was when it was next to my head, not neccassrily touching it. When it seemed like it was only happening while on the phone, I didn't assume it was. (I didn't know at the time that radio waves were a form of radiation). I didn't think it could be. I tried moving it around to see if it was and sure enough when it was close I felt that sensation and only then. Also noticed it was worse when the phone was on my right side. Why? I have no idea.
I've got mild arthritis, a bad back since I was a teen (no curve in my lower spine) had a bout with CTS, and every few years, lupus like inflammatory episodes with my joints. Never once did it feel like a hairdryer an inch or two away from the inflicated area.
So while I don't know what caused it, I can be fairly certain it wasn't the shape of the phone case.
Might be problematic. No service to it.
I know there will be a lot of calls of bullshit, but here goes.
My first phone was an analog Nokia. I don't recall the model but I still have it here someplace. It took me awhile to realize the cause, but every time I used it, I'd get a headache and a weird sensation on that side of my head. A tingly hot feeling, almost felt like a hairdryer when it's too close to your head. Also slightly scattered in my thinking. Like it was hard to concentrate.
This was before I ever heard a peep about even the possiblity of radiation being a problem so it wasn't in my imagination. I never felt anything like that outside of using that phone. Never happend again after I stopped using it either (about 7 years ago)
After the realization, I was like Kirk and his communicator. I'd say something quickly and then hold it away from my head as far as I could while still being able to hear. My calls also got amazingly terse.
I hung on to it thinking of getting it tested one day. How could (where would) you go about measuring the radiation?
Thanks. Never would have thought of that!
I'm hoping to tackle that this summer. I've been thinking about it for quite some time. My family has a ton of home movies and it's way too expensive to transfer. Taping it would be better than nothing, but if I'm going to do it, I'd like to do it once and for all.
If you wanted to get really tricky, I suppose you could try and route the film so there's more than one section of strip on the bed at a time. You'd have to flip every other row, but it would be much faster. Though I don't know how these old films would handle the stress.
Sure it does. Here's a better example (I just got in from the bar when writing that)
If I bid 40 right away and someone else comes along and decides it's worth 40. Bang, the price is forty bucks the first or second day. So nowhere to go but up and 5 days left.
Sometimes it will go that way anyway, but often other people will chip away towards the high bid, then last second I come in and bid what I really think it's worth and win the item within a few bucks of what I wanted to pay.
Everytime I've just flat out put what I thought it was worth to me as my maximum bid, the bidding war begins and a week later the price ends up sky high. Usually as much as the item would cost new (which makes no sense, but I digress)
You might disagree, but the strategy has worked out great for me. I win most of the stuff I want for the price I want.
I mostly get car parts myself. I see just about every listing that hits ebay every day for parts for my car (alot of listings). I see what I win and what other people pay for the same things and what I get them for is usually a 1/5 or less of what other people pay for the same items. So it certianly works for me.
I've done it and I'm not an idiot. Let's say I'm bidding on an item, usually start small as a maximum bid to avoid driving the price up early. Let's say that bid remains uncontested. Now it's getting near the end of the auction, it's late. I want to win it but don't want someone outbidding me at the last minute. Don't feel lilke watching it like a hawk at 2 in the morning.
I up the bid to what I would actually pay and go to sleep. Seems sensical to me.
I use a wireless cam mounted to a RC Jeep augmented with a bunch of white LEDs to chase my cat around. Always good for a laugh.
Boston Water & Sewer has been doing something similar to the article for ages. RC Car with a camera mounted to inspect pipes. Not so fun to watch. Basically looks like a looped tape.
What the fuck was I thinking? This is fucking slashdot after all. :P
I used to pepper my code with vulgarities. Then clients wanted copies on their own hosts. It's a hard habit to break.
:)
Particularly when debugging scripts. "F*CKING C*NT" and the like weren't to uncommon.
An interesting tidbit, Viaweb (now Y! Store) used to have a program called storef*cker
A good point. Hadn't thought about that aspect too much. More concerned about not having it on during the BIOS load.
/enclosure would be the simple solution or another Endurostar drive. I don't plan on watching movies or anything (though I want my MP3s).
I guess a Firewire or USB drive
I'd certianly agree with you about disabling safety features, but I think most drivers have a good feel for estimating their speed and engine rev. So I can't see a failure being a major safety issue in this context.
The main reason is I'm using linux is prior experience and the availability of the tools I want. Obviously, that could change once I get further along if I find it's not in practice workable.
Yeah, I thought about that. Xenarc has an ordering option for extra bright screens.
For my project, I have a coupe and the amount of light coming in from the rear is not bad at all.
So I'm going to compensate for it with the custom cowel. Due to the configuration of my interior, (my gauges are pretty far away. About 1ft behind the steering wheel, deeply recessed.) I can bring the sides around the lcd forward a good 6 or 7 inches. The back window is tinted really dark so the light that could potentially hit it will be negligable.
I'm more concerned with dimming it at night so it doesn't light the interior so much.
I think it depends on your needs. I know the protocol for my car (ISO) is way to slow (for my tastes) for a real time tach and speedo. I think VPW is much faster but with ISO I get 3 or 4 samples a second. RPMs can change alot in 1/3 of a second.
I don't think wheelspeed sensors are a standard OBDII sensor output. My car doesn't have mine available under OBDII. You can read them with the dealer tool though.
I'm doing this myself now. I'm still in the early stages but have most of the parts. Just need to pick the computer itself and the power supply. (Probably go Opus with a ITPS)
;)
:)
It's definitely going to be linux. I think I'm going to just put a half tower in the trunk as I'm going to need a lot of expansion cards.
I'm leaving the gauges in place and putting the monitor (lilliput 8" touchscreen) in front of it and wrapping it up in custom fiberglass cowel.
My wiring passes through the gauges into other systems, for instance the battery charger so it's easier to leave everything in place and easier to just remove screen and replace with stock cowel for inspection time.
For the harddrive, I'm using a ruggidized harddrive designed for automotive use. Slow but it's got a great temperature range and shock rating.
The keyboard I'm using is a tiny one I found on ebay. I cut it down to fit in a 1 DIN position. It fits between the stock radio and AC controls. You don't know it's there when retracted.
Most of the inputs will come from OBD-II (elmscan that I embedded inside floor) but it's not fast enough for the tach and speedo. (4 samples a sec at beast ISO) I'm tapping the tach, speedo and a few other input signals directly and processing them with a PIC. The PIC will then communicate with the PC via serial.
I'm thinking later, I'll add a large commodity drive for other non essentials that will be activated via a temperature controlled relay. So if it's under 40F in the trunk, it won't power the harddrive until it is hot enough or maybe I'll just use a USB drive.
My first advice is to buy the factory service manuals on ebay. They are invaluable. I got mine for $40 US. Three phone book size volumes with schematics as well.
You might find the factory training books for the electrical and whatnot as well. I did. It was nice to have the whole ECU protocol detalied. (Though not planning to tap into it at this point)
If possible, buy extras of whatever your going to mod on ebay. For most parts I'm fooling with, I have 2 or 3 extras that I've amassed over time. If your patient, you can get stuff cheap.
For instance, in my spare room, I have a spare dashboard, gauges and most everything else on the dash. I'm using this to work on the fabrication so I don't have any downtime (or screw up my car)
$1700 dollars worth of stuff righ there. $240 shipped in mint condition. Patience is the key.
As far as the legality, I'm not concerned. If I had a massive failure, the only thing that I would be missing are my current speed, engine rpm, fuel and oil temperature. Nothing that would ever cause a crash. I can estimate the first 3 fairly accurately. Certainly enough to safely pull over and remove the screen and use the OEM gauges. A fuse could do the same thing to the OEM gauges (and has to me before)
Besides the fact that I'll have more readings on my car (which will actually improve safety), In phase 2, I'm going (try) to tap the ABS wheel speed sensors. By using the four sensors, I've now added differential tire pressure monitoring to my car.
My whole design goal is to have something integrated, yet I want it stealth. If you walked by, you'd have no idea it was anything special. You might if you were astute, notice the monitor, but you would probably just mistake it for a regular an OEM readout.
A great site (Australian cars though) for technical car info and ideas is Autospeed.com.
There is some other stuff, but I'm not going into detail until it's done
Well it's not that easy, but there are some benefits of remote start besides not freezing your ass off.
A couple years back, my sister started the car from her house on a cold day, she gathered her kids and went to go out to the car... which was by then enveloped in flames.
I knew him a bit during the Viaweb, Yahoo! Store days. Saw a lot of stuff he wrote too. A real genius. Really nice guy too.
I wish I could build a jet engine in my garage without blowing myself up.
I've thought about it. It sucks because it's such a waste. Then again, none of mine last long at all and I do almost no printing. I've got 5 door stops here :(
Maybe if everyone did that next time they were looking for ink, it would make an impre$$ion.
I guess that never occured to me. I would be suprised if anything concerning Doom 1 would cause a problem over a decade later. Specifically seeing that it was obtained from an Id representitive in a public forum.
Anyway, it's something that would take me awhile to find. I've got a good idea where the hard copies are, but don't feel like scanning all that in. I'll have to dust off my 386sx-16 one of these days.
There is also stuff that isn't Doom related such as various discussions of how to compress Mode 13 VGA video in the most effective manner, and some thoughts on Wolf3D, etc.
In the beginnning of the 90s, I was a teen trying to get started in video games.
I found a BBS (I think MCI Worldcomm) in CA where John Carmack and Michael Abrash frequented. He was discussing Doom as it was being developed. Actually posted code from it as he was developing it and going into specifics of the engine. It was amazing to get that kind of perspective when your just starting out.
After a couple of months though it was removed. I take it that some people at Id didn't like him sharing the development of this ground breaking game while it was still being developed.
One of the things they looked at for Doom originally was Voxel models. I still have copies of this stuff someplace (including a primitive Voxel editor he released). I should dig it up and post it for posterity sake.
:P
I shit you not. My first phone was a Nokia, I got the model about 10 years ago.
I didn't relate the two for some time, but I started getting a weird sensation on the part of my head near the cellphone. This happend a bunch of times before I made the connection.
The best I could describe it was a cross between pins and needles and holding a hair dryer to close to your head.
Once I made the connection, my cellphone converstation became amazingly brisk (until I got a headset, but even then, rarely used it)
Never experienced that with newer digital or analog models.
I still have the phone around here somwhere as I had planned on trying to figure out if I could measure it somehow.
So what would you use to measure something like that?
Those where the days. I had to have 2 or 3 books on "undocumented dos" because of all the chicanery that MS pulled with it.
I know little of economics to be honest. Though I don't think it took a genuis to realize that companies that had little or no idea of how they would ever generate revenue could be worth billions. One company I did contract work for burned through $70,000,000 in a year. Giant 20 floor building downtown, 700 employees, and sold team athletic related items, or rather acted as a distributor.
My first thought was that you'd have to step on a lot of t-shirts to make 70 million a year.
My second thought was here they are spending all this money on tech and infrastructure and the only thing that made money was a >$20,000 site hosted on a celeron based server at an offsite host. The absurdity of it was quite clear to me.
One thing I will say is that Yahoo! Store (formerly Viaweb founded by Graham and others) was actually really profitable during the bubble (and I'm sure still is). Lots of people paying big bucks every 30 days. Though it seemed the managment at the time really didn't care. Cash wasn't very sexy.
Yahoo's spam filtering sucks. I trained it with 15,000 messages (over 99% spam) and it hasn't got one yet. Only 2 false positives. (I get around 100 spam a day on this account)
After much nagging, the answer I got was basically that if you forward mail to your Y! account, it doesn't filter it AT ALL. So anything that has a different to gets by. I wonder how this works if you pay yahoo to be someone@somwhere.com.
I wish I knew this before I spent all that time classifying. And I know your not supposed to bitch about free stuff and I'm not. Been a MailPlus customer for years.
At the very least they should have a swear filter you could use to catch the obvious shit such as "Tight Anal Teens get fucked in the ASS!"
You only have 50 or so filters and it's just not practical to try and catch even a small portion of blue language.