What do you really miss by doing the free FTP install? (i.e. what commercial packages included with the pay-for copy would a lot of people really care about?)
"-reprogram the computer"... What car is this? I've never heard of OBD-II allowing people to change ECU parameters, besides clearing any existing trouble codes. Besides that, I haven't heard of OBD-II software that includes a feature for setting ECU values.
At least on newer Nissans, you can program the ECU via the OBD-II port, but only using their proprietary Consult-II device. I'd love to see someone reverse-engineer that puppy and write some software to enable Consult-II functionality on a laptop or Palm.
Part of the problem with tuning is the slow data rate supported by OBD-II: somewhere around 10Kbps.
I guess if you're only pulling 1 parameter then you can sample data fast enough, but if you're pulling, say, 5 sensors' data at once, the samplerate for each individual sensor is rather slow. Doing a 0-60 acceleration run in my Maxima, I got 3 readings for RPM during the entire run, pulling around 5 different readings at once for comparison (RPM, MAF throughput, Ignition timing advance, front and rear bank O2 sensors)
FYI this was on a 2000 Nissan Maxima and using the Auterra OBD-II Dyno-Scan for PalmOS on a Palm m505.
The irony here is that your radiator could need replacement... typically when coolant leaks slowly out of the cooling system, it is replenished by coolant in the recovery tank, thus the recovery tank appears to lose coolant. Now if you can see the coolant leaking out the bottom of the recovery tank, that's a different story...
I call BS. Your engine would be horribly damaged after 5 miles of driving with no oil in the pan. This would be due to friction from lack of lubrication.
Some people put Front Strut Tower Bars under the hood to increase the rigidity of the suspension between the two strut towers. These usually aren't necessary in the rear due to the solid construction of the trunk, which you cannot have in the engine bay since you need space for the engine/transmission/etc.
A brake system is designed for a fluid-based system, thus introducing a gas (which is more compressable than brake fluid) breaks (no pun intended) that basic design assumption.
Pouring some water into your brake fluid reservoir may not cause immediate issues, as brake fluid itself is hydroscopic (absorbs water). However, as brake fluid takes on water, its boiling point drops dramatically. Water also enters the brake system naturally through slow breathing of the rubber brake hoses, water vapor in the top of the brake master cylinder fluid canister, etc. This is why it is important to have your brake system flushed at least once every 2 years, preferably every 25000 miles or so. Fresh fluid also prevents corrosion, since that water can promote corrosion of the brake system as well.
A-men. Just don't buy their cheap tools (i.e. Great Neck, possibly a couple other brands), they're CRAP. I rounded a brake line flare nut with a Great Neck flare nut wrench one time. I think they carry Durabrand, which is higher quality stuff...
Re:Bah, I've done drums so many times as an amateu
on
Hack Your Car
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· Score: 1
Drums are a pain compared to disc, but if you have someone showing you how it works, it's not so bad. Still a pain in the arse. Lots of springs, and it's a riddle to figure out which combination of springs you should install in which order (repair manuals never really explain this well enough), and you almost need 3 hands to do the job sometimes. Still a worthwhile job. If you do it yourself, see if you can buy a replacement spring kit for your drums (Autozone sold me a small spring replacement kit with my pads on a previous car... all shiny new springs so I can see what I'm doing) And the auto-adjuster piece... definitely take that apart, clean it thoroughly and grease it up properly. Nothing worse than having rear brakes that won't adjust, or squeal or something, and you get to take the whole thing apart again to figure out what went wrong.
Re:I dont think I would hack my car
on
Hack Your Car
·
· Score: 2, Insightful
Working on cars was something I'd never dream about a few years ago, being afraid that I'd screw something up and it wouldn't run (or worse, it wouldn't stop/steer/whatever). Now I'm a regular weekend mechanic-type grease monkey.
Car work takes the same type of thought process as computer troubleshooting and work. You must be VERY diligent in your work, must think EVERYTHING through before you begin, and most of all, have confidence in your abilities. Some things a novice cannot do, for lack of proper tools and work environment (i.e. strut replacement, if you don't have a good breaker bar, torque wrench, and maybe an impact wrench to make the job easier, along with a bench & vise to hold it), but there are many many things anyone can do with enough determination (spark plug replacement, air & fuel filter replacement, etc.)
You find as you do more and more car work, that you buy more and more tools to enable you to do more sophisticated work. Think of these tools as an investment--you buy the tools once, but you usually recover the cost several times over as you do more and more work, since you are essentially saving yourself the money you'd normally pay a mechanic as labor.
I use mine as a firewall & router for my personal network, which unfortunately sits on dialup. It works great with IPFilter (http://coombs.anu.edu.au/ipfilter/) and Solaris 9.
I intend to use it with a cable modem after I move elsewhere and get broadband. I have a 2nd PCI NIC installed, a Linksys I bought for $5 off eBay, using drivers from here-- http://garrett.damore.org/software/ethernet/suppor t.shtml configured as 'afe0'. Although I don't currently use it, so I haven't really "stress tested" it yet.
Slashdot Mirror
LOL yeah, same here...
As one poster mentioned, they already do: http://www.drivetrain.com/redlineoilgasdieseladd.h tml
Polyester-based oils are the base for some synthetic motor oils.
carbon-12? Is carbon-12 radioactive? (I thought it was carbon-14...)
Ahh OK. Another poster revealed this is in the jargon file too... thanks!
This might be a silly question, but what does "brown paper bag" release mean? (and how did the phrase come into use? :-D)
I think you mean Engine Coolant (antifreeze); Automatic Transmission Fluid is mostly oil right?
I think glycol-based lubricants are also used in some R-134a refrigerant A/C systems (PAG)
I think Super_L and Super_R (left and right windows keys) are modifiers.
The "menu" key throws a "Menu" keypress:
KeyPress event, serial 25, synthetic NO, window 0x2000001,
root 0x48, subw 0x2000002, time 43446434, (48,44), root:(55,108),
state 0x0, keycode 117 (keysym 0xff67, Menu), same_screen YES,
XLookupString gives 0 bytes: ""
What do you really miss by doing the free FTP install? (i.e. what commercial packages included with the pay-for copy would a lot of people really care about?)
it starts out with "begin-base64 644 mksuse.sh"
:-P
That gives away the filename before you even start copying/pasting, ya troll
I see... not too bad.
"-reprogram the computer" ... What car is this? I've never heard of OBD-II allowing people to change ECU parameters, besides clearing any existing trouble codes. Besides that, I haven't heard of OBD-II software that includes a feature for setting ECU values.
At least on newer Nissans, you can program the ECU via the OBD-II port, but only using their proprietary Consult-II device. I'd love to see someone reverse-engineer that puppy and write some software to enable Consult-II functionality on a laptop or Palm.
Part of the problem with tuning is the slow data rate supported by OBD-II: somewhere around 10Kbps.
I guess if you're only pulling 1 parameter then you can sample data fast enough, but if you're pulling, say, 5 sensors' data at once, the samplerate for each individual sensor is rather slow. Doing a 0-60 acceleration run in my Maxima, I got 3 readings for RPM during the entire run, pulling around 5 different readings at once for comparison (RPM, MAF throughput, Ignition timing advance, front and rear bank O2 sensors)
FYI this was on a 2000 Nissan Maxima and using the Auterra OBD-II Dyno-Scan for PalmOS on a Palm m505.
I'm curious... "pre-1970 levels"? Did really old cars use high compression or something?
That ambitious attempt at a MasterCard commercial was so horribly butchered it's not even funny.
The irony here is that your radiator could need replacement... typically when coolant leaks slowly out of the cooling system, it is replenished by coolant in the recovery tank, thus the recovery tank appears to lose coolant. Now if you can see the coolant leaking out the bottom of the recovery tank, that's a different story...
I call BS. Your engine would be horribly damaged after 5 miles of driving with no oil in the pan. This would be due to friction from lack of lubrication.
Some people put Front Strut Tower Bars under the hood to increase the rigidity of the suspension between the two strut towers. These usually aren't necessary in the rear due to the solid construction of the trunk, which you cannot have in the engine bay since you need space for the engine/transmission/etc.
A brake system is designed for a fluid-based system, thus introducing a gas (which is more compressable than brake fluid) breaks (no pun intended) that basic design assumption.
Pouring some water into your brake fluid reservoir may not cause immediate issues, as brake fluid itself is hydroscopic (absorbs water). However, as brake fluid takes on water, its boiling point drops dramatically.
Water also enters the brake system naturally through slow breathing of the rubber brake hoses, water vapor in the top of the brake master cylinder fluid canister, etc. This is why it is important to have your brake system flushed at least once every 2 years, preferably every 25000 miles or so. Fresh fluid also prevents corrosion, since that water can promote corrosion of the brake system as well.
I'm due wipers, and I wonder if the local AutoZone carries K&N air filter cleaning/oiling kits...
A-men. Just don't buy their cheap tools (i.e. Great Neck, possibly a couple other brands), they're CRAP. I rounded a brake line flare nut with a Great Neck flare nut wrench one time.
I think they carry Durabrand, which is higher quality stuff...
Drums are a pain compared to disc, but if you have someone showing you how it works, it's not so bad. Still a pain in the arse. Lots of springs, and it's a riddle to figure out which combination of springs you should install in which order (repair manuals never really explain this well enough), and you almost need 3 hands to do the job sometimes.
Still a worthwhile job. If you do it yourself, see if you can buy a replacement spring kit for your drums (Autozone sold me a small spring replacement kit with my pads on a previous car... all shiny new springs so I can see what I'm doing)
And the auto-adjuster piece... definitely take that apart, clean it thoroughly and grease it up properly. Nothing worse than having rear brakes that won't adjust, or squeal or something, and you get to take the whole thing apart again to figure out what went wrong.
Working on cars was something I'd never dream about a few years ago, being afraid that I'd screw something up and it wouldn't run (or worse, it wouldn't stop/steer/whatever). Now I'm a regular weekend mechanic-type grease monkey.
Car work takes the same type of thought process as computer troubleshooting and work. You must be VERY diligent in your work, must think EVERYTHING through before you begin, and most of all, have confidence in your abilities. Some things a novice cannot do, for lack of proper tools and work environment (i.e. strut replacement, if you don't have a good breaker bar, torque wrench, and maybe an impact wrench to make the job easier, along with a bench & vise to hold it), but there are many many things anyone can do with enough determination (spark plug replacement, air & fuel filter replacement, etc.)
You find as you do more and more car work, that you buy more and more tools to enable you to do more sophisticated work. Think of these tools as an investment--you buy the tools once, but you usually recover the cost several times over as you do more and more work, since you are essentially saving yourself the money you'd normally pay a mechanic as labor.
Along with the Darwin Awards...
FYI, that site was just the source of a really long, interesting bedtime reading for me.
I use mine as a firewall & router for my personal network, which unfortunately sits on dialup. It works great with IPFilter (http://coombs.anu.edu.au/ipfilter/)
r t.shtml
and Solaris 9.
I intend to use it with a cable modem after I move elsewhere and get broadband. I have a 2nd PCI NIC installed, a Linksys I bought for $5 off eBay, using drivers from here-- http://garrett.damore.org/software/ethernet/suppo
configured as 'afe0'. Although I don't currently use it, so I haven't really "stress tested" it yet.