The best minds have worked on some of this software, e.g. OpenSSL. That didn't prevent things like Heartbleed.
The best minds did know what they were doing, there was code that zeroed out all the data between calls. The person who picked it up later and saw a huge performance improvement by removing the code that wrote into the buffer twice is what caused the problem. So again, if you use bare to the metal code, know what your doing!
It bugs me to no end to see someone pick up code someone else wrote and start using it without understanding it. Then when things blow up they blame the code they "got" because it didn't cover every case. Yes there are tools that mitigate this, with either code that checks in real time or code that pre-checks. But the real problem is the coder doesn't really know what is going on and just didn't take the time to figure out if it was going to work for all their cases. And the worst, when it fails instead of trying to understand and fix it, they just want a tool to do that for them. Reality check, you are the tool, do your job and understand what you are doing and stop slapping a bunch of lines together because it looks like it works!
Sorry for the rant, I have reviewed way too many pull request lately that are just blatantly bad to the point of neglect. The worst so far was code that A didn't fix the issue (didn't even come close), and B introduced a new slew of errors. Its days like this that I wished I hadn't given up sniffing glue.
I own a 48 year old German car. Repair forums always say to buy German steel parts if you can find them, even with minimal maintenance they will outlast you. If you can't find those, get North American, general maintenance and the part will last quite a while. South American parts require a bit more maintenance but not much more, usually setup and installs required a bit more finesse. Then lastly, Chinese made parts, even the expensive ones will need constant maintenance and still fail.
Take some CV joints for example, German made $60 will last about 40 years, American about $45 will last about 30 years, Chinese about $30 will last maybe 5 years (some have barely made it 10K miles before failure). So yes, the cost is more, but the quality is worth it. Especially if it is something you only want to do once or twice in your lifetime.
So unless you like changing parts regularly, stick to good steel. Now I don't know about needing a case to last this long, and a steel case is kind of heavy to be moving around all the time.
I must say though that I bought a case in early 2000 and have changed the components at least 5 times since then. The case is still in good shape and has taken everything I can throw at it. As for ports; those are extended via cables to the desk as the computer sits on the floor about 3 feet away. The only reaching down I need to to do is to turn it on. I could wire a simple switch to the desk if it really bothered me, but it doesn't.
Yes, bring on the EV's. The more companies making EV's mean the more they have to complete with each other and the lower the price will become. That whole supply and demand thing.
So sure, bring it on VW. If the car turns out to be a lemon, well at least it will still bring down the price of other cars.
Thing is, there is a community called Helltown about 2 miles north west of Paradise. Going there would have been a bad idea as that is burning now. Best bet would have been to go west to Chico, or south to Orville (actually scratch that, stay away from Orville for other reasons, lookup Orville Dam evacuation).
Yes, but the hippies in CA refuse to allow controlled burns, so you end up with uncontrolled ones!
Bingo, we have a winner!
California stopped using the forest service to clear fire breaks because "we need to conserve nature man". A few simple fire breaks such as clearing back X yards on both sides of the road, back burning areas between tree groupings, clearing tall trees around major population areas and houses would have prevented most of this.
I remember growing up in Wyoming (which is way dryer) and looking at the mountains and seeing a black line going up the mountain through the tree lines every 10 miles or so. The idea was that when one section catches fire they have a natural fire break. They only send crews in to rescue people in that area and to beef up the fire break. People are encouraged to gather and pile up old brush around property lines and use controlled burns the keep houses clear. Which I did experience a fire there that burned the whole hill I lived on, not one single house was touched, but everything in between was burnt.
And yes, you can still get fires in controlled burned areas. The idea isn't to stop the burning, the idea is to make it difficult for the fire to spread to another region. Then you can concentrate on reinforcing these breaks rather than fighting the fire every step of the way which is a loosing battle.
P.S. All those wondering why they are choking on smog in the Bay today, this is why. So yes, this fire is affecting you to.
It is getting hard to find old ones as well. Those who like stick don't want to give them up.
Like I've told my wife, if I wreck my car I'll just fix. If I total the car, I'll take what I can from mine, transplant to a new less wrecked car and drive that. I'm either giving my car to my kids or dying in it.
It takes about 15 minutes to work (I have to drop off the kid) and 10 minutes home, so about 25 minutes per day * days per week * 50 weeks ~ 105hours. So not quite.
On the plus side my car is nearly 50 years old, stick shift, and fun as heck to drive. So the drive can be by the seat of your pants which can be pretty enjoyable. There is about a three mile stretch where the road curves back and forth several times that most people don't like to take. That stretch alone is a joy to take at 10-15 mph above the speed limit. On the way home there is about a 1 1/2 mile street that is straight as an arrow with no lights or stop signs and very little traffic, ie pure fun to rake the shifter through.
You are missing the part that Apple isn't telling you. They are buying the chips from a third party, not the intellectual IP that goes along with it. When the third party built the modules they didn't intend to use the IP themselves. They just wanted to make the module and sell a convenient module at a slight markup. So Qualcomm didn't charge the third party for the IP, just the cost of the chip. Which is why the third party can sell it for a very low cost. But now Apple wants to use that IP so Apple is being asked to pay Qualcomm for the IP. It would be awesome if Qualcomm approached this from another end in which they required an activation process per chip. Each chip could still be tested when assembled into a module by the third party, but it wouldn't function until activated. They then just charge Apple to activate each chip.
To put it another way think of games with DLC. You pay a set price for the game, but if you want additional content (or IP) you have to pay for that. You don't get that content just because you paid for the disc (and in most cases the DLC is already on the disc or at least most of the assets are). If you don't want to pay the additional cost, no problem you can still have the basic game (or in this case you can have the chip, but you can't use the features of it).
By the way, yes the McDonald's that sold you that hamburger is paying an indirect cost per hamburger (well ultimately you are paying because the McDonald's just rolls that into the price of the hamburger). They know that it is part of the business they are in. They pay their fee in the form of franchise licenses in which they must buy the packaging and the product from corp at a markup. So no, a McDonald's store isn't allowed to just run to the Costco and grab some beef, some wrappers and sell it as McDonald's. Nor are they allowed to contact the manufactures and buy the beef and branded wrappers at wholesale. Franchise owners have sued for being forced to do this and lost.
To summarize:
Apple is not buying from Qualcomm directly. They are buying components from other manufactures that use Qualcomm chips. They then use those components in their product they sell. Qualcomm licensees state that this kind of indirect sale requires a fee.
Now while that seems sleazy on Qualcomms part to double charge, Apple doesn't have to buy those modules and pay indirect fees. They could for example make the components themselves and buy the chips from Qualcomm outright, but I bet they would pay a higher price. But in the end if they built their own chips or bought modules that didn't use Qualcomm parts then they would owe Qualcomm nothing.
Of course even if Apple wins, Qualcomm can just raise the direct price of their chips to recover the costs. Apple would have a few choices; pay the higher component price, build their own, or find a different module that doesn't use Qualcomm chips. In the end if Apple doesn't want to pay the fee, then stop using their chips. Apple sounds like a whinny customer who bought a meal with a 80% off coupon, didn't like the meal and now wants a refund.
Be a parent, not the baby sitter. Take an active part in your kids life, see what interests them, guide them. Don't just chuck them a tablet and tell them to google it. Play a few minutes of each game, if you don't like it for any reason then remove it.
I had a HD Tivo branded box, which about 5 years ago would have cost me about $300 (I can now buy one for $200). However, owning the device wouldn't stop their monthly tax of $15 ($10 for the DVR, $5 for Tivo service). On August 2nd they merged my account with AT&T's RC1 system and turned off the DVR and Tivo capabilities (all prior recorded content was also no longer watchable). After calling them about 7 times they told me their was nothing they could do and to stop calling.
So I did.
Instead I spent my time looking at streaming services, what we watched as a family, and what the costs were. I also ended up canceling my DSL with AT&T as well (they couldn't offer me speeds fast enough to stream tv).
My final solution was to go with Comcast for internet which is about $30 a month (40x faster than DSL for about 75% the cost). I bought a new modem for $75 shipped which supports downloads 10x faster than my current package (still way cheaper than paying their $11 rental fee on a modem). I already had a good wireless router and a 10GB switch which all worked with the modem.
I went with Sling for typical tv channels we watched at about $35 a month ($25 for the package, + $5 for kids channels, + $5 for DVR). I also bought a $90 Roku box (Roku 4, wired ethernet, 4K output, bluetooth remote).
So the breakdown of costs:
DirectTv + DSL ~ $132 per month.
Sling + Comcast ~ $65 per month (plus $165 one time equipment cost).
So in 2 1/2 months I will be in the black. I also now have way faster internet; and with streaming I can watch what I want when I want it. Roku also has a ton of old free shows and movies which I'm still binging on. I now no longer have any rental fee and I can cancel anytime I want with no penalty fees.
Still the best bit was calling DirectTv and canceling the whole thing. Then asking to be transfered to the DSL department so I could cancel that too.
Seriously the last time I had a car and played one of those things on it was pre-2001. Try looking for a decent radio that plays mp3s or blue tooth, even a 3.5mm jack is pretty old school.
Plus side with mp3s you can have 16+ hours of tunes and no inane dj chatter on a long drive.
I still own a couple of incandescent lights: one in the microwave, one in the oven, and one for under the range hood. The microwave doesn't like LED's for some odd reason (they crackle and pop). The one in the oven I'm sure would melt the plastic in the bulb, then catch fire. The one under the range is an odd size and the only LED replacement that might work would be about $40 and doesn't dim.
Other than that, everything is LED and dimmable; daylight intensity if I can get em.
Ok, looking at the setup it's the hook that breaks which would require replacing the whole lid. Something I'm sure the dealership will sell you for £150 or more (and will break again).
Another alternative, take the lid out (broken piece and all) then find a local college that has an engineering department. Talk to a professor and offer to pay a student £10 to 3D print (or metal cast) a new part and figure out a way to mount it to the lid with minimal modifications. Maybe a small metal plate with a screw through it that the hook would thread into (sandwich the metal plate between the top of the lid and the bottom of the lid with the screw sicking out). If it is as common a problem as you say, then there would be a market for the student or department to produce more and make some extra cash.
I have a 48 year old car, sometimes when you can't find a part (because all those parts disintegrated 30 years ago) you have to improvise. Last improvised part was a 1/2 inch pvc coupler, a hacksaw, and about 20 minutes with a dremel to make a plastic spacer the exact size/shape that isolated the steering column from the steering wheel. Part cost me about 50cents in materials and now my horn doesn't go off every time I turn a corner. Yes, I searched e-bay, someone is now making a 3D part available.
Take the part out, find the part number stamped on it and run it through google. Very good chance you will find the part on e-bay for about 1/10 the cost the dealer will sell it to you. (I looked for just "ford focus dashboard lock clip" and found some for less than $10, with a part number I could be sure).
I did this with some broken door handles for a Ford Fusion. I was able to get OEM replacements for $16 (both sides) + about $5 shipping. Took about 5 minutes per side to switch them out. Dealer wanted almost $200 + $80/hr labor. New parts are still working after several years.
I know, $15 for the H4 led bulb (and possibly $20 for the glass), and a standard screw driver. Its getting so dang expensive to replace the headlight on my 48 year old car these days!
The 7 year old family car; I changed the bulb without any tools and I believe a two pack of bulbs for around $20.
p.s. - The bumpers on my car are real steel, not some fiberglass with foam backing. A few years ago someone backed into one of my bumpers and tore theirs all to shreds, mine just needed a little buffing to get the honda civic stain out.
Anyone who can come up with $60K+ to buy the car most likely will be able to afford the insurance for it. If they choose not to, then they pay the damages to any property they destroy, and they will again buy a new car (or not).
Those who finance the car are bound by the terms of the loan which always requires them to carry full liability insurance, or they reposes the car and sell it to someone else who can.
Exactly. You want a secure phone that nobody can hack, they don't exist!
Whenever you save or do something on your phone, take a moment to think: can this be used against me? If it can, don't save or do it!
And just to throw the police off create a bunch of files like "masterUSPlan.doc" with nothing but wombat images. Then when asked about the "wombats" you know they have dug into your phone and you can tell them all about how wombats have ruined your life.
Of course I'm just waiting for every politician to host their own youtube channel because some social media ninja told them that is the way to win elections. Maybe if were lucky they will put all their efforts into youtube and stay out of tv and news so I don't have to skip through the political ads anymore.
Then of course the fake politically Russian youtube channels will be blamed for their candidate loosing that election too.
My head hurts, I'm going to go lay down for a while.
It usually takes a screw driver and a pair or wire cutters. In more difficult cases you might need a rigid plastic spreader and some heat. Typically if I plan on turning the microphone back on I'll pick up a small switch and wire the microphone in series with it.
Right to repair, or right to "modify", same thing in my book.
Slashdot Mirror
The best minds have worked on some of this software, e.g. OpenSSL. That didn't prevent things like Heartbleed.
The best minds did know what they were doing, there was code that zeroed out all the data between calls. The person who picked it up later and saw a huge performance improvement by removing the code that wrote into the buffer twice is what caused the problem. So again, if you use bare to the metal code, know what your doing!
It bugs me to no end to see someone pick up code someone else wrote and start using it without understanding it. Then when things blow up they blame the code they "got" because it didn't cover every case. Yes there are tools that mitigate this, with either code that checks in real time or code that pre-checks. But the real problem is the coder doesn't really know what is going on and just didn't take the time to figure out if it was going to work for all their cases. And the worst, when it fails instead of trying to understand and fix it, they just want a tool to do that for them. Reality check, you are the tool, do your job and understand what you are doing and stop slapping a bunch of lines together because it looks like it works!
Sorry for the rant, I have reviewed way too many pull request lately that are just blatantly bad to the point of neglect. The worst so far was code that A didn't fix the issue (didn't even come close), and B introduced a new slew of errors. Its days like this that I wished I hadn't given up sniffing glue.
I own a 48 year old German car. Repair forums always say to buy German steel parts if you can find them, even with minimal maintenance they will outlast you. If you can't find those, get North American, general maintenance and the part will last quite a while. South American parts require a bit more maintenance but not much more, usually setup and installs required a bit more finesse. Then lastly, Chinese made parts, even the expensive ones will need constant maintenance and still fail.
Take some CV joints for example, German made $60 will last about 40 years, American about $45 will last about 30 years, Chinese about $30 will last maybe 5 years (some have barely made it 10K miles before failure). So yes, the cost is more, but the quality is worth it. Especially if it is something you only want to do once or twice in your lifetime.
So unless you like changing parts regularly, stick to good steel. Now I don't know about needing a case to last this long, and a steel case is kind of heavy to be moving around all the time.
I must say though that I bought a case in early 2000 and have changed the components at least 5 times since then. The case is still in good shape and has taken everything I can throw at it. As for ports; those are extended via cables to the desk as the computer sits on the floor about 3 feet away. The only reaching down I need to to do is to turn it on. I could wire a simple switch to the desk if it really bothered me, but it doesn't.
Yes, bring on the EV's. The more companies making EV's mean the more they have to complete with each other and the lower the price will become. That whole supply and demand thing.
So sure, bring it on VW. If the car turns out to be a lemon, well at least it will still bring down the price of other cars.
Thing is, there is a community called Helltown about 2 miles north west of Paradise. Going there would have been a bad idea as that is burning now. Best bet would have been to go west to Chico, or south to Orville (actually scratch that, stay away from Orville for other reasons, lookup Orville Dam evacuation).
Google Maps
Yes, but the hippies in CA refuse to allow controlled burns, so you end up with uncontrolled ones!
Bingo, we have a winner!
California stopped using the forest service to clear fire breaks because "we need to conserve nature man". A few simple fire breaks such as clearing back X yards on both sides of the road, back burning areas between tree groupings, clearing tall trees around major population areas and houses would have prevented most of this.
I remember growing up in Wyoming (which is way dryer) and looking at the mountains and seeing a black line going up the mountain through the tree lines every 10 miles or so. The idea was that when one section catches fire they have a natural fire break. They only send crews in to rescue people in that area and to beef up the fire break. People are encouraged to gather and pile up old brush around property lines and use controlled burns the keep houses clear. Which I did experience a fire there that burned the whole hill I lived on, not one single house was touched, but everything in between was burnt.
And yes, you can still get fires in controlled burned areas. The idea isn't to stop the burning, the idea is to make it difficult for the fire to spread to another region. Then you can concentrate on reinforcing these breaks rather than fighting the fire every step of the way which is a loosing battle.
P.S. All those wondering why they are choking on smog in the Bay today, this is why. So yes, this fire is affecting you to.
"see subject".
It is getting hard to find old ones as well. Those who like stick don't want to give them up.
Like I've told my wife, if I wreck my car I'll just fix. If I total the car, I'll take what I can from mine, transplant to a new less wrecked car and drive that. I'm either giving my car to my kids or dying in it.
It takes about 15 minutes to work (I have to drop off the kid) and 10 minutes home, so about 25 minutes per day * days per week * 50 weeks ~ 105hours. So not quite.
On the plus side my car is nearly 50 years old, stick shift, and fun as heck to drive. So the drive can be by the seat of your pants which can be pretty enjoyable. There is about a three mile stretch where the road curves back and forth several times that most people don't like to take. That stretch alone is a joy to take at 10-15 mph above the speed limit. On the way home there is about a 1 1/2 mile street that is straight as an arrow with no lights or stop signs and very little traffic, ie pure fun to rake the shifter through.
Of course YMMV.
You are missing the part that Apple isn't telling you. They are buying the chips from a third party, not the intellectual IP that goes along with it. When the third party built the modules they didn't intend to use the IP themselves. They just wanted to make the module and sell a convenient module at a slight markup. So Qualcomm didn't charge the third party for the IP, just the cost of the chip. Which is why the third party can sell it for a very low cost. But now Apple wants to use that IP so Apple is being asked to pay Qualcomm for the IP. It would be awesome if Qualcomm approached this from another end in which they required an activation process per chip. Each chip could still be tested when assembled into a module by the third party, but it wouldn't function until activated. They then just charge Apple to activate each chip.
To put it another way think of games with DLC. You pay a set price for the game, but if you want additional content (or IP) you have to pay for that. You don't get that content just because you paid for the disc (and in most cases the DLC is already on the disc or at least most of the assets are). If you don't want to pay the additional cost, no problem you can still have the basic game (or in this case you can have the chip, but you can't use the features of it).
By the way, yes the McDonald's that sold you that hamburger is paying an indirect cost per hamburger (well ultimately you are paying because the McDonald's just rolls that into the price of the hamburger). They know that it is part of the business they are in. They pay their fee in the form of franchise licenses in which they must buy the packaging and the product from corp at a markup. So no, a McDonald's store isn't allowed to just run to the Costco and grab some beef, some wrappers and sell it as McDonald's. Nor are they allowed to contact the manufactures and buy the beef and branded wrappers at wholesale. Franchise owners have sued for being forced to do this and lost.
Not quite.
To summarize:
Apple is not buying from Qualcomm directly. They are buying components from other manufactures that use Qualcomm chips. They then use those components in their product they sell. Qualcomm licensees state that this kind of indirect sale requires a fee.
Now while that seems sleazy on Qualcomms part to double charge, Apple doesn't have to buy those modules and pay indirect fees. They could for example make the components themselves and buy the chips from Qualcomm outright, but I bet they would pay a higher price. But in the end if they built their own chips or bought modules that didn't use Qualcomm parts then they would owe Qualcomm nothing.
Of course even if Apple wins, Qualcomm can just raise the direct price of their chips to recover the costs. Apple would have a few choices; pay the higher component price, build their own, or find a different module that doesn't use Qualcomm chips. In the end if Apple doesn't want to pay the fee, then stop using their chips. Apple sounds like a whinny customer who bought a meal with a 80% off coupon, didn't like the meal and now wants a refund.
Everything in moderation.
Exactly!
Be a parent, not the baby sitter. Take an active part in your kids life, see what interests them, guide them. Don't just chuck them a tablet and tell them to google it. Play a few minutes of each game, if you don't like it for any reason then remove it.
Hmm, am I the only one thinking this is a paid ad for iPad?
I just canceled my account with DirectTv
I had a HD Tivo branded box, which about 5 years ago would have cost me about $300 (I can now buy one for $200). However, owning the device wouldn't stop their monthly tax of $15 ($10 for the DVR, $5 for Tivo service). On August 2nd they merged my account with AT&T's RC1 system and turned off the DVR and Tivo capabilities (all prior recorded content was also no longer watchable). After calling them about 7 times they told me their was nothing they could do and to stop calling.
So I did.
Instead I spent my time looking at streaming services, what we watched as a family, and what the costs were. I also ended up canceling my DSL with AT&T as well (they couldn't offer me speeds fast enough to stream tv).
My final solution was to go with Comcast for internet which is about $30 a month (40x faster than DSL for about 75% the cost). I bought a new modem for $75 shipped which supports downloads 10x faster than my current package (still way cheaper than paying their $11 rental fee on a modem). I already had a good wireless router and a 10GB switch which all worked with the modem.
I went with Sling for typical tv channels we watched at about $35 a month ($25 for the package, + $5 for kids channels, + $5 for DVR). I also bought a $90 Roku box (Roku 4, wired ethernet, 4K output, bluetooth remote).
So the breakdown of costs:
DirectTv + DSL ~ $132 per month.
Sling + Comcast ~ $65 per month (plus $165 one time equipment cost).
So in 2 1/2 months I will be in the black. I also now have way faster internet; and with streaming I can watch what I want when I want it. Roku also has a ton of old free shows and movies which I'm still binging on. I now no longer have any rental fee and I can cancel anytime I want with no penalty fees.
Still the best bit was calling DirectTv and canceling the whole thing. Then asking to be transfered to the DSL department so I could cancel that too.
I could post a car analogy, would that help?
No Computers, tablets, and cell phones have though.
CD
? What is that?
Seriously the last time I had a car and played one of those things on it was pre-2001. Try looking for a decent radio that plays mp3s or blue tooth, even a 3.5mm jack is pretty old school.
Plus side with mp3s you can have 16+ hours of tunes and no inane dj chatter on a long drive.
I still own a couple of incandescent lights: one in the microwave, one in the oven, and one for under the range hood. The microwave doesn't like LED's for some odd reason (they crackle and pop). The one in the oven I'm sure would melt the plastic in the bulb, then catch fire. The one under the range is an odd size and the only LED replacement that might work would be about $40 and doesn't dim.
Other than that, everything is LED and dimmable; daylight intensity if I can get em.
Ok, looking at the setup it's the hook that breaks which would require replacing the whole lid. Something I'm sure the dealership will sell you for £150 or more (and will break again).
Another alternative, take the lid out (broken piece and all) then find a local college that has an engineering department. Talk to a professor and offer to pay a student £10 to 3D print (or metal cast) a new part and figure out a way to mount it to the lid with minimal modifications. Maybe a small metal plate with a screw through it that the hook would thread into (sandwich the metal plate between the top of the lid and the bottom of the lid with the screw sicking out). If it is as common a problem as you say, then there would be a market for the student or department to produce more and make some extra cash.
I have a 48 year old car, sometimes when you can't find a part (because all those parts disintegrated 30 years ago) you have to improvise. Last improvised part was a 1/2 inch pvc coupler, a hacksaw, and about 20 minutes with a dremel to make a plastic spacer the exact size/shape that isolated the steering column from the steering wheel. Part cost me about 50cents in materials and now my horn doesn't go off every time I turn a corner. Yes, I searched e-bay, someone is now making a 3D part available.
Take the part out, find the part number stamped on it and run it through google. Very good chance you will find the part on e-bay for about 1/10 the cost the dealer will sell it to you. (I looked for just "ford focus dashboard lock clip" and found some for less than $10, with a part number I could be sure).
I did this with some broken door handles for a Ford Fusion. I was able to get OEM replacements for $16 (both sides) + about $5 shipping. Took about 5 minutes per side to switch them out. Dealer wanted almost $200 + $80/hr labor. New parts are still working after several years.
I know, $15 for the H4 led bulb (and possibly $20 for the glass), and a standard screw driver. Its getting so dang expensive to replace the headlight on my 48 year old car these days!
The 7 year old family car; I changed the bulb without any tools and I believe a two pack of bulbs for around $20.
p.s. - The bumpers on my car are real steel, not some fiberglass with foam backing. A few years ago someone backed into one of my bumpers and tore theirs all to shreds, mine just needed a little buffing to get the honda civic stain out.
I only paid $50K for my Model 3.
Ahhh, went with a lower end model, I understand.
Anyone who can come up with $60K+ to buy the car most likely will be able to afford the insurance for it. If they choose not to, then they pay the damages to any property they destroy, and they will again buy a new car (or not).
Those who finance the car are bound by the terms of the loan which always requires them to carry full liability insurance, or they reposes the car and sell it to someone else who can.
Exactly. You want a secure phone that nobody can hack, they don't exist!
Whenever you save or do something on your phone, take a moment to think: can this be used against me? If it can, don't save or do it!
And just to throw the police off create a bunch of files like "masterUSPlan.doc" with nothing but wombat images. Then when asked about the "wombats" you know they have dug into your phone and you can tell them all about how wombats have ruined your life.
Again, good for them.
Of course I'm just waiting for every politician to host their own youtube channel because some social media ninja told them that is the way to win elections. Maybe if were lucky they will put all their efforts into youtube and stay out of tv and news so I don't have to skip through the political ads anymore.
Then of course the fake politically Russian youtube channels will be blamed for their candidate loosing that election too.
My head hurts, I'm going to go lay down for a while.
It usually takes a screw driver and a pair or wire cutters. In more difficult cases you might need a rigid plastic spreader and some heat. Typically if I plan on turning the microphone back on I'll pick up a small switch and wire the microphone in series with it.
Right to repair, or right to "modify", same thing in my book.