That resistor isn't going to do jack shit for the distorted power signal.
And you wouldn't use a resistor, you'd ideally use a Zener diode to match voltage requirements in the case of an over-volted power line, by creating a voltage drop to bring the resulting voltage afterwards closer to the level of the other component.
"In the most simple model of circuit behaviour, electrical components wired in parallel are independent of each other"
Do I need to get to my parallel LED board, with a driver that will power all ten LEDs (in parallel) and show you that only two or three will light up? You don't get much more simple than that, sir.
" Certainly the camera package designers are competent enough to have the LED put in the circuit along with the appropriate resistance (and impedance and capacitance for that matter) so that it would not unduly impact the CCD sensor."
Having repaired tons of laptops both professionally and personally, and replaced the webcams in many (and fix the broken ones) I can tell you for certain that almost no manufacturer is willing to spend that expense when it's simpler to just have two separate circuits controlled by firmware. That's from experience repairing the board components directly, by the way. (Like I said, I refurbish the cameras myself. That's how I now have a sweet multi-cam rig for my guitar.)
"Are you saying there doesn't exist a way using simple components to make a circuit that will divert a constant amount of current to a led as soon as the current going to the camera exceeds a certain set value?"
Ever hear of the path of least resistance?
If not, you should introduce yourself to the concept.
If it's not safe for 20A house circuits (I know of many Aluminum Romex cables that have fried in-wall,) why in the world would it be considered safe for 50A or higher, unless the wire was incredibly thick?
"So your electric or induction stove. yea that is probably wired with aluminum."
Brand-new model. 100% copper wiring excepting the heating elements and brass connections for the wiring/plug, internal and external.
"The main supply lines for your home yep aluminum too."
Of such an incredibly heavy gauge for the relatively little amperage being fed to my place.
" You have a sub panel, that is most likely being feed with aluminum."
Brand-new panel, pure copper buses, including the Main. GE 150A panel, GE 40A sub.
" it wouldn't be hard to guess that the installer used aluminum even if the instructions say not to feed it with aluminum as I have seen that far to often"
That would not pass an inspection if it's labeled as such - which means it wasn't properly inspected in the first place and the person doing it was an idiot. I hope you aren't trusting these people. You know why we don't mix copper and aluminum? Risk of fire from high resistance junctions. NEC only allows anything like this for service entrance runs or short-distance subpanel connection, and only if two conditions are met:
A. Mechanical termination (No wire nuts, no soldering, no clips. It must be screwed in place.) B. The panel bolts and lugs are rated for aluminum wire.
Some jurisdictions go even further and require anti-oxidation paste be applied to the lug and wire at the terminal.
We've got a Master Electrician that handles the repairs and changeouts on the chargers for our forklifts at work. You know what his rule is for using Aluminum? Use Copper Instead.
"The design could speed up embedded applications."
And it can introduce problems, such as making an expensive piece of electronics useless when the non-replaceable SIM fails or does not update properly.
Most CCD sensors need 6V operating voltage. You'll burn an LED out providing roughly DOUBLE its voltage.
CMOS can run on a lower voltage, but running in parallel, you go with path of least resistance. The LED will be that pathway and your sensor will never get the power it needs.
How about taking some real electronics courses before talking nonsense?
Now that *WAS* a pure clean audio signal before the LED was introduced. Notice the distortion? You're about to get something like that for your sensor. I've got rectification on the other side before it hits the speaker.
Anyone saying it would probably be more cost-effective and easier to do by hardwiring led and sensor to work at the same time (implying running in series) should go right ahead and try it. I hope you didn't pay much for your sensor.
I've got several different laptop webcams right here. Every LED has its own dedicated circuitry. Two from Macbooks, two from HPs, and a Toshiba.
Bet you 10:1 this has already been tried. If it worked, it would be the norm by now just for the extra bottom line.
"You'd think they'd actually save money if they just hard wired the LED into the camera's power source. If the camera has power, the LED is on. I'm sure that would cost them less, not more."
"Spoke to an Apple tech just now. It used to be, according to them. They say it isn't anymore."
Uh, what? Hardwiring the LED in-line with the sensor is the most HORRIBLE idea ever. The introduced noise would make that sensor totally unusable.
Put an LED in-line with a clean audio signal going out to a speaker. That's essentially the sort of power feed you'd be giving the sensor. Pure stupidity.
2005 was the mandate by the Federal Government. You forgot all about the 70s energy crisis, didn't you? That's when ethanol in fuel became a big thing originally.
"I wish they'd push a yank-resistant and positive-connecting plug along the lines of Apple's MagSafe. "
Why? I've already seen one of my less-than-graceful friends step on the power plug, it not come loose, and instead of snapping off the jack it snaps the motherboard. What *MIGHT* have been a simple solder job now becomes an entire logic board replacement.
Dumbest idea ever. Should have been two flush pieces, with spring-loaded extensible prongs in the cord end, using a couple of powerful neodymuim rings around the port and end of the cord. Eliminate almost every stress point at the power connection, and make it safer, and reduce the potential for damage even further, almost completely eliminating it in fact.
"UEFI can do other fun stuff, but by default it runs "\EFI\Boot\bootx64.efi" on the first fat32 partition it sees. No more dealing with trying to backup custom bootloaders, or trying to figure out why grub install isn't letting you dual boot. Just rename a shell with a default script to bootx64.efi and you're good to go. Hell, those shells even include their own editor."
Oh, so you mean, it's like command.com, Autoexec.bat and config.sys, then. What's the point?
Because those using Steam already have Big Picture, which is essentially SteamOS, but not Linux. What's the point of letting you download the OS through Steam when all of the essential functions exist within Steam itself?
Okay, so I just drivers for my 7950GT installed on one machine, then went to the other one and reinstalled the latest drivers for the GTX460. Both times, the cards installed in less than 5 minutes. Both AMD-CPU systems, far slower (one's a dual-core 4850e out of an Acer, the other an Athlon X4 620. Both 4GB RAM.)
You've got something configured incorrectly or your operating system is fucking swiss cheese and you need a fresh install.
For two brief periods of time, the still-new Dogecoin overtook Litecoin in value./g/ is learning how to manipulate the currency very quickly. I suggest getting some while you can.
D82R7E4w23DpwRpBf51MmRYZhMJvpxfmqL - if you'd like to donate for the advice. Dogecoin plz, much thx, such grateful.
Yea, perhaps when you deal with light and optics all day, like him and I obviously do, will you understand that you're pretty ignorant in what you've just stated.
Oh, and look, you're my foe, it seems. Got tired of an expert coming up to let you know you're wrong, still wrong, and will likely always be wrong?
Slashdot Mirror
Didn't watch my video, did you?
That resistor isn't going to do jack shit for the distorted power signal.
And you wouldn't use a resistor, you'd ideally use a Zener diode to match voltage requirements in the case of an over-volted power line, by creating a voltage drop to bring the resulting voltage afterwards closer to the level of the other component.
"In the most simple model of circuit behaviour, electrical components wired in parallel are independent of each other"
Do I need to get to my parallel LED board, with a driver that will power all ten LEDs (in parallel) and show you that only two or three will light up? You don't get much more simple than that, sir.
" Certainly the camera package designers are competent enough to have the LED put in the circuit along with the appropriate resistance (and impedance and capacitance for that matter) so that it would not unduly impact the CCD sensor."
Having repaired tons of laptops both professionally and personally, and replaced the webcams in many (and fix the broken ones) I can tell you for certain that almost no manufacturer is willing to spend that expense when it's simpler to just have two separate circuits controlled by firmware. That's from experience repairing the board components directly, by the way. (Like I said, I refurbish the cameras myself. That's how I now have a sweet multi-cam rig for my guitar.)
Would you like to continue to argue with a person that does this daily? I can bring out many more examples of why you don't use an LED in-line with anything sensitive all day long, sir.
"Are you saying there doesn't exist a way using simple components to make a circuit that will divert a constant amount of current to a led as soon as the current going to the camera exceeds a certain set value?"
Ever hear of the path of least resistance?
If not, you should introduce yourself to the concept.
"It is just limited to systems above 50A draw."
If it's not safe for 20A house circuits (I know of many Aluminum Romex cables that have fried in-wall,) why in the world would it be considered safe for 50A or higher, unless the wire was incredibly thick?
"So your electric or induction stove. yea that is probably wired with aluminum."
Brand-new model. 100% copper wiring excepting the heating elements and brass connections for the wiring/plug, internal and external.
"The main supply lines for your home yep aluminum too."
Of such an incredibly heavy gauge for the relatively little amperage being fed to my place.
" You have a sub panel, that is most likely being feed with aluminum."
Brand-new panel, pure copper buses, including the Main. GE 150A panel, GE 40A sub.
" it wouldn't be hard to guess that the installer used aluminum even if the instructions say not to feed it with aluminum as I have seen that far to often"
That would not pass an inspection if it's labeled as such - which means it wasn't properly inspected in the first place and the person doing it was an idiot. I hope you aren't trusting these people. You know why we don't mix copper and aluminum? Risk of fire from high resistance junctions. NEC only allows anything like this for service entrance runs or short-distance subpanel connection, and only if two conditions are met:
A. Mechanical termination (No wire nuts, no soldering, no clips. It must be screwed in place.)
B. The panel bolts and lugs are rated for aluminum wire.
Some jurisdictions go even further and require anti-oxidation paste be applied to the lug and wire at the terminal.
We've got a Master Electrician that handles the repairs and changeouts on the chargers for our forklifts at work. You know what his rule is for using Aluminum? Use Copper Instead.
"The design could speed up embedded applications."
And it can introduce problems, such as making an expensive piece of electronics useless when the non-replaceable SIM fails or does not update properly.
"HERE IS THE RUB can he notate his music or even read a melody or chart off script"
All day, every day. He's a trained and taught professional musician.
BZZZZT WRONG
Most CCD sensors need 6V operating voltage. You'll burn an LED out providing roughly DOUBLE its voltage.
CMOS can run on a lower voltage, but running in parallel, you go with path of least resistance. The LED will be that pathway and your sensor will never get the power it needs.
How about taking some real electronics courses before talking nonsense?
>implying camera sensor and LED run off the same voltage
Let me demonstrate why you don't run an LED in-line with a sensor.
Now that *WAS* a pure clean audio signal before the LED was introduced. Notice the distortion? You're about to get something like that for your sensor. I've got rectification on the other side before it hits the speaker.
Anyone saying it would probably be more cost-effective and easier to do by hardwiring led and sensor to work at the same time (implying running in series) should go right ahead and try it. I hope you didn't pay much for your sensor.
I've got several different laptop webcams right here. Every LED has its own dedicated circuitry. Two from Macbooks, two from HPs, and a Toshiba.
Bet you 10:1 this has already been tried. If it worked, it would be the norm by now just for the extra bottom line.
"You'd think they'd actually save money if they just hard wired the LED into the camera's power source. If the camera has power, the LED is on. I'm sure that would cost them less, not more."
Let me show you why that's a bad idea.
Now imagine that sort of 'filtered' power going to your sensor.
"Spoke to an Apple tech just now. It used to be, according to them. They say it isn't anymore."
Uh, what? Hardwiring the LED in-line with the sensor is the most HORRIBLE idea ever. The introduced noise would make that sensor totally unusable.
Put an LED in-line with a clean audio signal going out to a speaker. That's essentially the sort of power feed you'd be giving the sensor. Pure stupidity.
You think a fucking automaton is going to do something like this?
Fuck no, son.
Betteridge's Law of Headlines, sucker. Proven yet again.
2005 was the mandate by the Federal Government. You forgot all about the 70s energy crisis, didn't you? That's when ethanol in fuel became a big thing originally.
Here, let me help you find the right fucking section.
http://slashdot.org/~toygeek/journal
That's what your fucking JOURNAL is for. Not /.'s fucking front page.
"I wish they'd push a yank-resistant and positive-connecting plug along the lines of Apple's MagSafe. "
Why? I've already seen one of my less-than-graceful friends step on the power plug, it not come loose, and instead of snapping off the jack it snaps the motherboard. What *MIGHT* have been a simple solder job now becomes an entire logic board replacement.
Dumbest idea ever. Should have been two flush pieces, with spring-loaded extensible prongs in the cord end, using a couple of powerful neodymuim rings around the port and end of the cord. Eliminate almost every stress point at the power connection, and make it safer, and reduce the potential for damage even further, almost completely eliminating it in fact.
"UEFI can do other fun stuff, but by default it runs "\EFI\Boot\bootx64.efi" on the first fat32 partition it sees.
No more dealing with trying to backup custom bootloaders, or trying to figure out why grub install isn't letting you dual boot. Just rename a shell with a default script to bootx64.efi and you're good to go. Hell, those shells even include their own editor."
Oh, so you mean, it's like command.com, Autoexec.bat and config.sys, then. What's the point?
" Itanium"
HA-HA-HA-HA
Because those using Steam already have Big Picture, which is essentially SteamOS, but not Linux. What's the point of letting you download the OS through Steam when all of the essential functions exist within Steam itself?
Okay, so I just drivers for my 7950GT installed on one machine, then went to the other one and reinstalled the latest drivers for the GTX460. Both times, the cards installed in less than 5 minutes. Both AMD-CPU systems, far slower (one's a dual-core 4850e out of an Acer, the other an Athlon X4 620. Both 4GB RAM.)
You've got something configured incorrectly or your operating system is fucking swiss cheese and you need a fresh install.
For two brief periods of time, the still-new Dogecoin overtook Litecoin in value. /g/ is learning how to manipulate the currency very quickly. I suggest getting some while you can.
D82R7E4w23DpwRpBf51MmRYZhMJvpxfmqL - if you'd like to donate for the advice. Dogecoin plz, much thx, such grateful.
Which means 460nm light would hide a 46-meter object.
That sounds fairly outlandish, I would think 8 times (3680nm) would be more appropriate and viable.
Yea, perhaps when you deal with light and optics all day, like him and I obviously do, will you understand that you're pretty ignorant in what you've just stated.
Oh, and look, you're my foe, it seems. Got tired of an expert coming up to let you know you're wrong, still wrong, and will likely always be wrong?
Uhh, yea, what're you going to do about the phones built into the back of the seat, in the headrest? Ban those, too?
Fucking ill-educated people running our government.
I guess the idiots that marked this flamebait never read the MSDS on Acetone.